Front Axle & Wheel Seal Replacement on a 4WD Case IH (Part 1)

show you guys how to do a wheel seal on a 70 140 we're going to do the wheel seal the hub sealed on the axis here all stay intact now which one's exactly leaking so we're going to do all start by jacking it up put your blocks underneath taking the tire and the fender up pull the cotter pins out if they're seized in there you can just snip the very ends off with a pair of side cutters and then put a sock in around it just spin it off of the impact it will share the cotter pin off and then once it's out you can drill it out after or heat typical stuff so take your tire right end off the the steering arm came off pretty easy so I but this one's a little tougher I imagine I put a bar underneath the the tie rod end and then a jack lifting up on it putting some pressure on it the castle nut is spun off almost all the way off it's got a few threads left you want to be able to make sure that nut can spin all the way off spin it all the way off first well the spindles stuck in your arm that way you can clean up the threads put the nut back on again if you don't when it when it's free the ball will spin inside the socket you won't get the nut off so you don't want to do that so then what you want to do is take a hammer with low when there's a little bit of pressure on it and just tap it and the shock will actually knock it loose I'll put a little bit of pressure on it more there she goes and that's what you want the bar will comply in half afterwards but that's normal so now you can take that that's nice and loose you can take the nut off the bottom I cleaned off thread nice no you can almost lift it out but not all the way because it actually hits the pivot at the bottom but you can don't force it just get a bigger bar get a bigger hammer generally you can pop them out no that's free so you wanna make sure this spins nice and free beforehand umm just new bearings the top and bottom the roller bangs just feel that now to take this help off drains at the bottom when you fill it up you want the drain level and it'll it'll says oil level arrow down so arrow down the plug is always halfway you only ever fill it halfway because the oil expands and it needs room to expand otherwise your seal will start leaking again right away so I'll drain the oil hopefully there's oil in it it's a very potent smell tractors aren't as bad as final drives on excavators and bulldozers because they do a lot of work you get it on your hands you will smell for a little bit it's two Allen sockets here not bad it's one another one on the other side so this is silicone now so I have to hit break the seal some of them just have an o-ring and some of them you have to sell it on it you don't want to force it you just want to grab a bigger hammer or a bigger bar or bigger chisel it was it would be so easy if they just threaded a hole and here you could put a bolt through and push it nicely uh nobody thinks about the Macan bloody knuckles think every parts person should be a mechanic for minimum ten years every engineer should also be a mechanic it's coming slowly you see a crack all the way around there we go six bolts with bushing behind it and that holds your planetary in place this is also your preload for your to taper bearings so they're shims behind there you really want to be careful of those shims you want to lose those shims you want to count them make sure that all accounted for when you put them back together again but there's a procedure to tighten it too so we'll get into that ah sure there's the shims there's only two don't lose them your bolts lock tighten so you want to make a note of that and lock tie them back in again kind of this final drive should pop off and there's your tape for bang now look you're bearing make sure that there's no lines on it your grooves or anything that you feel any flat spots on the on the bearing so now we should be able to pull this hub off from what I can remember okay there's your wheel seal at the back so there's your wheel seal right here with your other bearing stuck in behind there you want to look at your hub here where the seal rides make sure there's no groove on there otherwise you're gonna have to get a speedy sleeve sometimes it's a two-piece seal and you'll have a piece stuck on there so really look at your lip on your front here to make sure that there's not one on there already we're going to take this hub off by taking these four bolts off the top and the four at the bottom and that's a cap that goes into a bearing on the top and bottom we'll pull that out and pull this hub off then we can get out the seal and the bushing that's in here and we'll be able to get out the axle seal at the back once we pull our axle out so take the caps off without wrecking the shims as best as you can underneath now this hope should pop off go no I can see there are seals they're nice and dirty and messy with the bushing we're gonna replace both the axle oh you want to get your oil drain again there's actually three bolts and behind here that's pretty dry heaters I don't think that acts as he is leaking but we're gonna replace it anyway um these u-joints I can feel a little play even though it's hard to see so I can feel it back and forth so we're going to source replace the u-joints at the same time we split this tractor to get out the rear main student which was also leaked and left the driveshaft off on purpose so you can spin the input shaft to get out these bolts because the way the u-joints it can't always get it all of them and that's pretty generally quite a bit of resistance and that's fine oh that sucks and just that well slowly down about 45 to an hour crap anyway pull the axle out now gonna get some oil leaking up now and here is your your seal is in behind here and then a bearing and then this press piece here and this this caller just pressed on and that keeps the axle from sliding out that and this can only go so far we're going to take those new joints apart there's another video to show you how to do you joints you're gonna have to have a press to press that off and we'll show that the case is here they have those three bolts otherwise there's got to be a way to keep the axle from sliding out so I know that the deers the 8000 series that I the one I worked on anyway it had a an Allen plug in the top on the bottom with it with a round end on it and that's out in a groove and that keeps it from coming out so there's still a little bit left on there so I might be able to heat it up and then grab with vice grips and spin it out so we'll try that that's pretty straightforward um yeah here we go hey thanks for watching don't forget to Like and subscribe because you never know what you're gonna see you next week on to boss garage if you like what you see with a lot of stuff happening to help support the channel and remember if you're not filthy you're not rich

Channel: DEBOSS GARAGE

Views: 229,339

Keywords: case ih, tractor repair, axle replacement, wheel seal, wheel seal replacement, front axle, 4wd, international harvester, hub seal, axle seal, axle shaft

Id: ekPj9-M_JkI

Length: 8min 34sec (514 seconds)

Published: Sun May 08 2016