Frame Gussets & Prep for Powder Coat and Zinc! (Almost Lost my Finger)

we've got a ton of stuff to go out for zinc coating and powder coating but before we can send it out to our guys we need to make sure that our parts are prepared so let's get started with this Frame now this 2005 frame that we're replacing that 03 with is a really nice frame and there are updated gussets in this upper shock area that do help reinforce that now from the factory the 2003 and I believe the 2004 as well they were notorious for getting cracks up in these upper shock mounts now even with this gusset I'd like to add just a little bit more we're trying to keep this looking as OEM as possible so I'm going to add a small little triangle on each Corner I've got these gussets These are left over from a 250R kit and I think they're going to work just fine my plan is to take these and cut them right across the front here and we'll have these little triangles with an arc here that kind of makes it look Factory you know here's one of the OEM gussets right here and we're just going to fill this little area in right here on both sides just that tiny little bit is going to add a nice bit of structure first things first let's cut these to the proper size we'll just go right about there take our Sharpie and we're going to cut it right along that line right there beautiful all right let's Chuck this bad boy up just like so we're going to take our handy dandy Milwaukee sza freaking best tool of all time and we're just going to chop this sun right off and as I'm doing this I'll be doing the same work to both sides oh almost forgot my safety glasses looks pretty good I was going to put a bevel on this but I think because of the Contour of the frame a nice beat of weld should go in there no problem you know what what the heck I've got the tools out I'm just going to put a little bit of a bevel on this one Edge and in the corner here that's just going to help us to get a really good solid weld all right our gussets are cut this side is looking good too now even on raw steel like this a lot of times there's some sort of coating or buildup on them so it's a good idea to just take light sandpaper or a scotchbrite and we're just going to clean off the contact areas where we're going to be welding I'm going to use this 120 sand grit on this die grinder this is an awesome tool for doing this kind of work and I'm going to do this I can do it really easy just just like that so you got some fresh bare steel gussets are prepped so now we just got to prep the frame real quick I'm going to use that same die grinder and strip our coating [Music] off all right all right man that looks beautiful we are ready to weld now there's really only one or two ways to make a professional weld either by completely guessing on the dials on the welding machine or just by cranking them both all the way up and that way it'll blow straight through the tubing that's the way we're going to do it all right let's tack this bastard on [Music] here all right I'm actually going to try to mimic these Factory welds normally when I would weld I would go in like a swirly motion and do the uh stack of donuts or whatever they call it and uh can't even joke about that dude are you serious so we're just I'm going to actually do I'm just going to drag the welder and try to mimic these Factory welds a lot of people people say that the factory welds are crap I'm a pretty crappy welder so this might work out really well I was joking about the welder settings earlier but uh truthfully it can be difficult figuring out the right uh settings because I think this pipe is thinner then we've got the thick gusset and I haven't welded on this Frame other than tacking so sometimes just going straight for it the settings can be off so you know hopefully this will turn out nice though looks pretty good ah bastard all right a think we've got a bad ground well this one came out pretty good you know I think they're pretty close to matching the matching the factory look once I get I just got a little bit of a splatter I'll knock that off of there and once that's powder coated and everything and everything matches I think that'll look pretty Factory this side I don't know what was going on I had like a bad ground or something and you can see good amount of splatter and I was just having trouble for whatever reason so um I think it'll look okay though we'll get this the Splat we'll get that off of there and again once it's powder coated I think that'll match the OEM welds pretty good and if you didn't know any better you you might just think that it came from the factory that way straight from the factory all right those aren't the worst welds I've ever done but they're close to it and for this project that's perfect now I just have to strip the frame of any grommets or rubber bushings and stuff we've got this big rubber bushing up here and we've got these bushings on the side I think these are all for the gas tank but we're going to save these so we can put them on after the powder coat we've got a number of these cable stays that are just clipped onto the frame and there's these cable stays under the frame here I think if I come through the side I might be able to compress them one side at a time and then spin it to the other side and get the other one there we go there we go saved them you can see the little Clips if you just yank these out they'll snap right off but this will clean up and we can reuse this and there's just one last thing I want to do before this is ready for powder coat and that's take out our steering stem bushing and that should just tap through probably be easier if we do it on the ground the bushing is right here it knocks out the top so we'll come from the bottom just going to take a socket that's about the same outer diameter of the bushing we're just going to smash this bastard through doesn't get any easier I just don't know but now our frame is ready to go to bonehead performance for Powder Coating now I'm working on keeping everything organized here we've got the frame that's going to be blue we've got this bin right here this is all silver pieces I decided we're going to make we're going to leave the the the heel guard silver but I'm not going to do bare aluminum I think it'll look a little better if we coat that in the same silver that we're going to be doing the subframe and the a ARs with I I just don't I don't know that the bare aluminum will will be the right look back here this is all Vapor blasting stuff that's going to be scrap over there the old frame and whatnot and I've just been trying to like bag and keep things generally organized you know a lot of this prep work for Powder Coating and stuff is really boring and monotonous and it's just not fun to do so I'm going to do all of this on my own and uh I'll see you guys in the next video all right all right we can do some of this stuff together we've got hubs here that we've got to strip we've got a rear carrier and then I've got this carburetor that's in worse condition than I thought so we're going to crack into that in just a moment also got to break down the a ARS take the bearings out and these lower ball joints on these Factory a ARS are not replaceable I do have a fix for that a mod if you will we'll be doing that also at the end of the video now typically when I send my Hubs to bonehead and for you guys that are new to the channel bonehead is my powder coating company freaking awesome company I did a video out there showing how they do their work if you're interested in it you should definitely check it out I'll put it right here anyways when usually when I send these out I just take the bearings out and I leave the studs in and they can mask everything off and make it work but a lot of times the coating gets blasted off of these threads and then my fix has always been using these cap lug nuts that go over the threads and protect them from rusting but we're going for the OEM look here and plus I'd like to take it a step further from moving forward anyways and actually press out the studs refinish the studs and then we can press them back in once they come back from powder coat so let's take the bearings out first first thing we'll remove are the little collars in here these come out real easy I think from the factory these are yellow zinc so I'm going to put them in the yellow zinc right like that I've got everything all organized for Moto blast and again for those new to the channel Moto blast is my vapor blasting and zinc coater why aren't you subscribed to the channel flip this over and we've got one on the back side too and when you're doing this just be really careful you don't want to uh scratch the inside of your hubs you can really do that with the seals you know there are seal removal tools I actually prefer a wide blade Flathead over those and I'm just twisting the screwdriver and you don't want to push it all the way to the edge if you push all the way to the edge on the inside you're going to scratch the inside of the Hub so I'm going like almost all the way in and I'm not pushing not pushing this way I'm just twisting and the twisting is going to lift the seal out of the Hub really easy sometimes they're not that easy but these ones came right out now I used to take a punch and just try to catch that inner bearing race and smash the bearings out but uh I have since become more Ninja likee and I actually use the proper bearing tool now not 100% ninja you'll see it's still kind of heck but this works a lot better now the key to this is getting a good bearing pullar this actually came from Harbor Freight it's their Pittsburgh one and I forget how much it was I think it was like $70 it's better than the Amazon ones okay if I can find this kit on Amazon I'll link it below but just don't get one of those really cheap ones they have bearing pullar kits like this for like under $50 I had one of those and I struggled with it for a long time it's like they sort of work but they sort of don't and it's just a nightmare so we're going to take uh the appropriate size here and what this has if you guys can see it's a little dark that's better we've got like fingers on the top here and you can see they all come together at the top and basically this will go in that little inner lip goes on the inside of the bearing and when we thread this in you'll see it expand so you want to find the one that fits closest to the inner bearing race this one is just barely on the inside sometimes it doesn't even fit you have to push it in and it kind of like Clips we'll get right on that inner bearing race right about there you can screw this in by hand as far as you can get it then we'll tighten this bastard down with some wrenches and you want to make it pretty snug but not so tight because if you go super super tight you'll actually stretch out the tool those fingers aren't that thick but you do want to go pretty tight cuz you don't want the damn thing slipping out of the bearing race all right that's good and tight now you can sometimes get this out just by holding it by hand and smashing the slide hammer on there but the best way to do it is to fix whatever it is so this Hub uh I don't know that I want to put this in the vice but I think I can mount this to the edge of the bench here with some clamps and hopefully not damage anything you know when you're working out of a garage at home just like a regular old garage there's no set way to chalk up anything or to do any job you just got to find a way to get it done it's prettyy tight now the slide hammer threads on to the spreader and I just make this pretty much fingertight you just don't want it to be wiggling around or you can actually mess up the threads of the tool and now we'll just uh go to town and that's really in there huh all right this bastard's really stuck in there so we're going to give this thing some heat and hopefully not melt our plastic clamps all right let's see if that does it fire in the hole woo heat for the wind man what a difference and then this bearing is actually loose on here you can see how it works now that it's like this you see as it comes up to the top that inner lip is pulling on the inside of the bearing and to get that off we're just going to loosen up the tool bearing slides right off and we can resell this on eBay I think this is pretty hot in here we've got our spacer man look at the coating on that I'm not even going to have to send this out wow that's a sign that the seals did their job I don't think water ever gotten there A lot of times these spacers are really corroded and Rusty you know water gets inside those rims or the hubs and uh it just sits in there and the stuff kind of rots then the opposite side is super easy we can just Smash It On through with a socket and a [Music] sledgehammer and our hubs are done oh that's still hot now we need to get those studs out so we're going to use the press this may seem like an unattainable tool to the average guy but it's really not I got this at Harbor Freight and it wasn't that expensive I can't remember exactly how much it was but it was only like a couple hundred bucks it's just big that's the only thing it's it's a it's a huge tool that's what she said all right now first thing we want to do is make sure the tool is about where we want it so this platform can raise up or down with these holes here on the side you basically just lift it up and you slide the peg up like that and you got to do both sides of course but that's the first step so we then we got these steel cross plates right here and in order to press this out you want to find a socket that's just big enough for the outside diameter of the back of our studs cuz you want to support the back when you're pressing this out you're putting tons of force down on this and if you don't have the support right behind the stud the studs yeah you can actually break your hubs and then we're also we want to get this right in the center of our Jack and then we're going to spin on a lug a we're going to spin on a lug nut just in an effort to protect our threads cuz we're going to to be recating these we're not replacing the studs we're going to reuse them we'll bring this nut down just about to the surface so that it's pressing on the nut and on the stud we want to divide that pressure and then we'll just bring it on down make sure that it's straight and not coming down at an angle or anything and this should press the stud right out yep all right we can only go as far as that nut allows us but once it's broken free we can take off this nut and we'll push it the rest of the way [Music] through easy there is our stud and the splines look good on it too okay so this Hub is ready to rock and roll roll we can send this off to Bon head performance having the studs out of there should make their job a little bit easier all of the holes look really good like I don't see any you know the holes aren't walled out or anything sometimes that can happen then the studs Spin and also the studs the splines look like brand new so we can recat these and again you know these could be replaced just as easily honestly probably it may even be more cost- effective to do it that way but if we can save it I like saving things that's the whole thing of a restoration I don't like to replace every single thing if it has to be replaced it has to be replaced but these we can definitely save we're going to put those in the blue zinc pile for James over at Moto blast now we just have to do the same thing with our rear hubs these might be a little bit tougher because they're steel and not aluminum you know I should probably put my safety glasses on just in case something explodes when it comes to these things steel is usually a little bit tougher we're going to use the same method as before oh actually we're not if you look at the back of our Hub here there's a raised portion of this steel and when you put the socket on there it will not lay flush that little lip there makes it hang up so we're going to have to do this a different way all right guys I've got a plan this corner on my plate will come behind the Hub pretty nicely and that should Port it should support it no problem and on this back side I have another piece of Steel just to kind of keep our Hub nice and even same as with the front hubs we're going to thread this nut on just to try to protect our studs make sure we're centered up here it should do it oh it's tight that is tight come on now oh that's a lot of pressure oh I almost caught my finger in the rail there holy oh man ain't it fun restoring old z400s Jesus that was kind of scary you know that was almost as loud as an acorn falling on a car for a second I thought I heard a gunshot the noise was reported to be an acorn J Fire J Fire man they're freaking tight all right guys we managed to get all of our studs out without breaking anything incredible unfortunately the back studs I think we're going to have to replace them if you look at the splines on them they're kind of flat so I guess because this is steel when they press these in I guess it just flattens them out because the Steel's a lot harder the aluminum ones these studs are able to go in there and the splines I guess cut into the aluminum instead of Smashing down so we'll be able to reuse the front ones but I'm going to see I'm pretty sure they sell kits to replace these studs and uh we'll just replace the ones in the back cuz we want to have good splines if you've ever had a stud that comes loose and it's spinning in the hub it just makes it a freaking nightmare to tighten down your lug nuts we definitely don't want that so these will go into scrap and I'll put these hubs into the blue bin for Bon head the next thing moving forward is going to be getting these a ARS ready to go unfortunately for the next couple scenes I forgot to turn my microphone on first thing we're going to do is remove this upper ball joint in the upper a arm super easy to do with a pair of snap ring pliers next I'll be using a ball joint tool that I use at Harbor Freight fits over the ball joint just about perfectly and I think we'll be able to pop this out in the vie next I remove the bearings from the upper and lower a arms with the Press super easy to do using a socket and I found a brass bushing that fit just perfectly on the underside of the a AR allowing us to push the bearing through without causing any damage at all all right so our upper ar ar is ready for powder coat now the lower a AR unfortunately the lower ball joint is fixed so if this ball joint goes bad you're kind of you're kind of so dude you have to replace the entire lower a arm that's kind of a crappy design by Suzuki but it is what it is now I do have a fix where we're actually um we're just going to be lopping this some off now I can't take credit for this entirely um I've seen this on forums like forever guys have been doing this with z400s for a long time and I've even done this with one of my z400s back in the day we are literally going to take the saws off and cut this ball joint off right about where where this kind of like cylinder portion is we're going to chop it right there crazy yes but I've got safety glasses on so it's okay eBay bet you thought I was going to throw that straight in a trash can didn't you got to keep you guessing so now we're going to mount this on the bench as best as we can this can be kind of difficult now as you can see we've got a raw piece of Steel there with no hole in it but if you come around the back there is an existing hole this 15 30 seconds bit fits in there literally perfectly so we're just going to punch through right from the back until we're all the way through I'm going to take my time as I'm doing doing this cuz this can get hot especially with bigger drills we're going to use this tap Magic any kind of cutting oil is a good idea especially when you're dealing with bigger drills just get that on our bit there and just kind of slowly work it and I might take breaks depends how thick this damn thing [Applause] is Boom now drilling with these larger drill bits by hand can get out of control so we're going to see if we can Chuck this thing up in the drill press and bore this thing out a little bit bigger now to make sure we're mounted up in the Chuck Nice and straight have the old bit on there the smaller bit that we've already drilled through just to make sure that we're good and straight now we can throw in the larger bit put our cutting fluid on here now just double check the alignment to make sure that we will be tapping straight into our hole here we don't make sure this goes through Straight especially when we're threading something that's really deep and especially steel cuz it's really strong the tap will slowly be crooked and it'll eventually get so hard that it won't be able to cut and then the tap will snap if you continue to try to cut it so it's really important that we go in straight put our cutting fluid on our tap you guys might not be able to see this but I'm rolling up a paper towel and stuffing it underneath because that cutting oil is going to start draining all over my vice all right now we can start spinning this going to use a spanner wrench for like a a shock absorber but eventually this Chuck will slip we really just want to get it started here they do make special Chucks Just For Thread Taps I just don't have one so I'm going to do my best to lock this down all right I think we'll be all right with that this is just a really awkward scenario because I can't Chuck it up and face it upward cuz it it definitely would have been better going in from the top and coming in from this way it's really difficult to get like a a tap tool on here or anything so now I'm going to go by hand I'm going to be using a torque wrench because as I'm tightening this down it's really important one to keep the pressure straight up and down because again if I have the Big T handle we're not we're going to hit up against the a arm so um the reason I took the torque wrench is because as you do this you know we've got a long way to go here you start to get impatient you're going faster and faster and you're pulling harder and harder you don't even realize it before you know it you snap the tap so by putting the torque on here I have it set to 30 foot lbs uh it will beep and let me know that I'm pulling a little bit too hard if it does come to that and I might need to back it off put a little bit of oil on it we want to make sure we're keeping this thing good and lubricated all the way until the end that's what she said [Music] well it took about 15 minutes but we are through see if we can Buzz this out of here with the Milwaukee not bad and one last thing I want to do is just true up our edge up here we want this to be as flat as possible possible now the best way to do this would really be putting it in a Mill and making it 100% flat but I don't have a mill I can do some aluminum stuff in the drill press but not really steel so I'm just going to do it by eye it's not like something that has to be super precise but we do want a flat mounting surface cuz we're there's going to be a jam nut going up against [Music] this that looks pretty much flush and one last thing I'm going to do is come in with this deuring bit and just finish it off so it's nice and clean it should be good all right guys there it is threads came out nice and clean and now we have a replaceable ball joint all I need is a universal threaded ball joint pop right in there and you could even adjust the C Amber if you really wanted to but I actually took measurements before I even cut this off so that we can put it right back to the stock location kind of a pain in the ass I would say it's not the hardest job in the world but if you're going to attempt to do this you definitely want to have some skill and experience with tapping specifically because it definitely can test your patience if you go too fast you will snap that tap and uh you're pretty much done let's move on to something a little bit bit easier and we'll pop the bearings out of our rear carrier use this Tusk seal puller get our seals out did that just rip the front part of the seal out I don't think you've ever seen that happen before there we go all right we're going to have to improvise here and use my old crappy bearing polar because I thought I had the right size in the new tool but I don't so hope hopefully the old one can still get the job done you can see how tiny these components are compared to that other one it's just really it's not a very good tool I'm going to heat this up right off the bat so it's got a chance all right here we go ah we got it yes the crappy tool has pulled yet another bearing no rust in here either nice and that is why you should never throw away even crappy tools you just never know when you're going to need them junk I want to remove the stud from the back here so that we can get some new zinc coating on it my stud pullers don't go up to this size so we're going to use the classic double nut trick oh man it's pretty tight let's give it some heat woo man that was super tight but this is good to go I'm going to put this in the vapor blast box you guys are probably noticed we're doing some modifications that don't exactly leave this Z400 being OEM you know originally this was supposed to be a very OEM build now we are doing a lot of OEM Parts on this but I've actually you know since I've decided to do the updated you know with the new design scheme and I've also decided that this is probably going to be my new personal quad it's going to be replacing the KFX 450R as my personal Rider and instead of you know I was going to going to build it so that like a collector or somebody would want it and a lot of those guys are like purists and everything has to be OEM since I'm probably going to be hanging on to this one for quite a while I decided to make it more for longevity so we're going to PW powder coat the frame doing those replaceable ball joints on the bottom end just like really good like convenient upgrades that will probably be nice down the road so anyways um we are going to break into this carburetor and just see what's going on inside but before we do that if you guys remember a couple videos ago I had put up this Dash panel from the LTZ 400 project I put this in the eBay store and it did go to a winning bid it was won by Landon Wilds he said I'm so glad I won this it will look great on my 05 ltz400 and you can sign it wherever it looks best on the front if you could shout out my Tik Tok Landon wilds and this is my favorite series so far hope you have good luck with to build and have a good day so I appreciate that Landon and I appreciate everybody that did bid on this auction again all the proceeds that go in from these products they're all they all go right back into the shop and making future videos for you guys so anyways let's go ahead and sign this thing he said on the front so the dash sits with the indicators facing the rider so the front would be over here I think I'll sign probably right across this little front portion here not bad it can be really difficult signing stuff on like Contours and things like that thank you again Landon for bidding on this dash cover that will help the channel tremendously now speaking of help with the channel we have got a number of Parts here that came in from Power Sports Nation and I'm also excited that p uh Partzilla has been watching the videos and they reached out to me and they're going to be helping with the build we're going to open that up in a second there is one other thing that I want to go over that is the seat cover um I did pick a winner from the Instagram post the post got almost 2400 likes which is freaking crazy almost 240 comments it was the design post and it was really funny there's a lot of people talking about the heel guards being blue a lot of people don't want to see them being blue so I have decided I'm going to coat those heel guards in silver to match the bumper and the a ARs and the subframe I'm also going to update the graphics a little bit so that's you you guys will see I think I'll be happy with it it was just so funny I think one of the comments the guy was like the addition of heel guards is a sign of the the lower levels of testosterone in society today you guys always crack me up there's one other thing we have the seat cover that was in that post so there were about 240 comments I read through all of them and I did pick a winner and it's going to go to Andrew topnotch uh Andrew is actually a subscriber that I've met before I met him at the dunes and he let me rip his yfz450r super super awesome guy he's been a supporter of the channel for a really long time and he's got a Z400 so Andrew um I will send you a DM and you can send me your seat and get you all fixed up with a brand new cover I appreciate everything you've done man and I appreciate everybody that commented on that post um so let's go ahead and tear into this carburetor okay guys so we've got a genuine Muni here I wanted to replace this knockoff carburetor you can see they are similar but not quite the same I see the Bowls have some difference there and a couple other things too but I'm just more and more not liking to run the aftermarket carburetors even the ones that you know the fourstroke ones are usually better than than the two-stroke ones I've noticed at least in terms of reliability and consistency but I'm just I'm having Pro problems with them more and more often and I'm discovering they're just they're more difficult to tune usually sometimes you get one that's really good but why take the risk so I didn't want to run this one uh this came from Power Sports Nation you guys probably saw in the video I had ordered it Cameron reached out to me and he said they had another one there that was kind of unsellable he's like do you want a project or do you want to just have one that you can clean up and put on and yeah I'm sure you guys can guess what which one I chose I chose the project what a dummy I am because the the slide doesn't move or anything so basically I just want to pop the bowl off the butterfly I don't think moves this thing is like totally SE I just want to take the bowl off the top and the side and just see what it looks like in here and uh hopefully we can save this thing oh man definitely want to use a JIS screwdriver on these oh look at that it's loose uh-oh that could be that could be a bad thing there they're all loose I see the gasket is just kind of hanging out here I'm pretty sure that this came off of the one Z400 that was like sinking into the ground it was in my yard walk video and uh that thing definitely looked like it had seen better days okay at least we've got Parts in here I was a little bit worried because with those loose bolts you know that makes me think that somebody might have scavenged Parts it doesn't look too bad in here actually we'll place all these Jets and stuff yeah okay not bad not bad the needle valve actually moves the body I'm not worried about we'll send this out for Vapor blasting and I I guarantee you this thing will look brand spanking new that's part of why I wanted to do this it's really satisfying to take something like this and restore it because the before and afters man it's just worth it let see what's under this side cover I'll replace all of the hardware for sure and we can get this side plate reinc coated and whatever else I can remove from this man that thing is nasty no doubt oh boy jeez oh man this I might have to let this soak in like PB Blaster because this is seized I'm going to pry very gently to see if this moves oh man that is like solid yeah I think we'll have to let that sit in oil cuz I'm going to wind up break in something yikes guys I have spent no lie probably at least two full days of work just getting all of the parts together that this Z400 needs this isn't even all of it that's 66 different pieces right there going over all of the bolts and nuts and everything and seeing what needs to be replaced I want to have all OEM Hardware on this thing as much as I can possibly do and that adds up man that's for companies like Power Sports Nation and Partzilla come in because honestly man I probably couldn't afford to do the builds quite like I do them with without the help of these companies so if you guys are looking to support me the best way to do that is by working with the companies that work with me so you can hit up P Sports Nation they're a huge provider of used parts the largest in the industry and then if you're looking for OEM Parts Partzilla is the place to go now I'm not going to lie guys it's like past 1:00 a.m. and I'm running out of steam here but I'm excited to look at these parts so I figure we'll open them up we've got more gender reveal paper oh man this is going good stuff dude you guys are going to be happy with this the upgraded shocks for the Z400 Power Sports Nation had them they came off that same 05 Z400 man these things are in incredibly good shape dude short of doing the Springs cuz they're chipped up the shock bodies almost look like brand new wow and then these are the cases from that Z400 so you guys know the cases oh jeez they weren't kidding so this one's not exactly perfect either these were unsellable they told me can see why right here this has been broken and it looks like somebody tried welding it and there's another break down at the bottom too so they were not going to resell these they said they would send them just so that I could take a look if it's something I want to repair or if it's better than the 03 I think we're going to actually try to fix up the 03 cases we're going to do that in a future video but still it's awesome that they sent these who knows maybe we'll end up saving these cases instead instead in looking for cases I've discovered that the I guess that's a common spot on these z400s where they break and there's about a 100 right side case halves for sale on eBay and they're like worthless it's the left side that breaks on them and so all these broken cases and people try to sell the good right right half like my right half case is in good shape but it's that's not the one that anybody needs so we'll see if we can fix that in a future video Let's pop open our brand new OEM parts from Partzilla oh dude you guys know what this is right a brand new KT 335 and it's got a freaking Tire Bonnet on it they said they had one in stock what are the freaking odds man dude this is so cool we've got an oem tail light these are all OEM genuine Suzuki parts we've got a new shifter boot and this is kind of funny I thought that I ordered a service manual but it's actually the Z400 owner manual manual that's actually really cool though so I guess this is what came with the quad back in 2003 I thought that was a warning decal in the bag that would have been a score for this build we've got a brand new chain slider and check this out this is Suzuki part numbers this is the Suzuki threadlock I got all four of them so we can do it just like they would do in the service manual when they recommend the part numbers and then we've even got the Suzuki Grease how cool is that it's the little things guys I mean I just think that is so cool that all came from Partzilla and then we got the tire here man I can't get over the tire Bonnet man that is that is so awesome so we finally have our full set of brand new OEM tires these ones are fresh though man look at that uh if this is correct I believe that means it was made in the 26th week of 2022 so this is a fresh Tire I'm not going to lie guys it does feel a little bit different than uh those ones from 2003 so so I mean those are brand new New Old Stock and this one is like brand spanking new that is so cool now there's a whole boatload of O parts that are still coming no lie guys after I put this list into the Partzilla uh shopping cart there were like I think it was 274 parts that I need for this build now that includes all little bolts and clips and stuff but all of that stuff adds up especially OEM parts so I really really appreciate companies like Power Sports Nation and Partzilla stepping up to help out with these builds man it is just freaking incredible I hope that the excitement can translate to you guys because this is just going to be an awesome build if you guys enjoyed this video please give it a thumbs up that helps out tremendously and if you want to see more videos like this please consider subscribing check me out on Instagram I've been put trying to keep up with putting up updates on there so that you guys can see what's going on in between videos and sometimes I put stuff up on there that isn't included on YouTube so you can get some special bonus content it's Michael Sabo 350 over on Instagram I'll see you guys in the next video peace out food time

Channel: Michael Sabo

Views: 54,840

Keywords: atv build, michael sabo, michael sabo build, quad build, offroad project, custom quads, atv content, suzuki, z400, ltz400, 4 stroke build, atv restoration, restoration, barn find, abandoned, vintage suzuki, original suzuki, 400ex, dvx400, kfx400, kawasaki 400, suzuki 400, motorcycle build, motorcycle, drz400, drz400s, drz400sm, suzuki ltz400, 2003 z400, 2003 suzuki z400, free quad, free z400, inside an engine, atv gusset, gusseting, remove atv studs

Id: 8_At-LdcALI

Length: 42min 5sec (2525 seconds)

Published: Tue Feb 27 2024