Ford Sherman Transmission *REBUILD*

hey everyone it's good to see you i have an exciting new video series here ahead of us i'm going to be completely rebuilding this sherman auxiliary transmission for a ford tractor uh this is going to be basically part one i'm going to be dismantling this entire transmission rebuilding it and then part 2 is going to be the installation into a 1948 ford 8n tractor now if you've done any kind of research on the sherman transmissions you'll know that there are a few different kinds of sherman transmissions this particular one is a high and low range or a combination or combo for short there are several different kinds i won't get into right now but if you do research and you'll find out that one these things can be quite expensive especially if they've been rebuilt or they are known to be good unfortunately there are a lot of ones out there on the market that you might see on ebay or you know craigslist marketplace wherever uh that are being sold as good but there's also a lot of things that could be wrong with it and i just want to strip it down go in detail part by part what to look for so you don't get burned and hopefully you'll have a nice uh smooth quiet operating sherman transmission that shifts nice doesn't pop out of gear and it'll be good for many many years so let's get started and dive in so the first thing to check out is this gear right here this is your output shaft the shaft that is running through the top part of the transmission and this gear are all one piece this is machined to accept the bearing from your transmission of the tractor it rides right in here there is no bearing race in here if this is scored or pitted or damaged in any way it cannot be replaced if it is you would have to junk the entire shaft now fortunately they do make a brand new shaft they're around 220 dollars 225 depending on where you get it um which is very helpful because these things are you know everything's old now we're talking 60 plus years old so it's really nice when you can find a good one this particular one here i would say it's about 99 percent good there is some very very few pits in here my rule of thumb is if i can uh rub my finger over it with my eyes closed and not feel anything it will probably be okay however we're not out of the woods yet there is something we want to check uh inside the transmission on the shaft that is known for wear so but right now everything's looking good on this end coming up to the front you have your input shaft this is the part that goes into the clutch of your tractor you always want to make sure this area right here is not scored it's nice and smooth this will actually go into the pilot bushing of your flywheel a lot of times if that bushing or i should say bearing fails you'll get this all scored up also make sure that your splines are nice and square and not you know abnormal wear or look like they're getting ready to strip this looks like it's an excellent shape i'm going to go ahead and remove the top shifter assembly on this there is a problem with this that i'm aware of um it does not want to stay in gear so there's there's actually a whole lot going on here that i want to discuss a little bit later in depth so i'm going to set this to the side for now and we're going to focus on the internal gears here now we're getting into the nitty gritty as you look down in after taking that top cover off you want to inspect all the teeth on the gears everything is looking really really good here let me explain some this is your input shaft gear this is called a shift collar when this shift collar goes forward and actually goes into inside of that gear the input shaft gear that would be kind of like locked out or you'd just be using the standard transmission of your tractor this isn't high range or low range it is just your normal gear ratios of your transmission down in there that is called a sleeve or i'm sorry spline sleeve this is your step up gear and then this is another shift collar when this shift collar goes forward you would be in high range when it goes back and goes inside of the step down gear which is right here naturally you would be in low range now all these sleeves and shift collars they all have these little teeth you want to inspect every one of them make sure none of them are all chewed up generally if one's chewed up they're all going to be chewed up that happens when somebody has been trying to through the year shift it while on the move that is not a good idea these sherman transmissions have a pretty good reputation of being durable unfortunately they're not idiot proof so you'll want to inspect all the little the teeth there everything here is looking really really good so far i am happy so i am going to remove now the input shaft and i'm going to remove all these gears and you'll be able to see even more parts that you can't see right now okay that's off here is a little roller bearing i'll set that up in there for now there is a large bearing in here that is pressed into this housing it is also held by three set screws this particular one for some reason is missing them but that's no problem i got new ones uh there is also a oil seal in here that will need taken out and replaced but i'm just going to set this whole thing to the side i want to go ahead and put it in the shop press and i will talk about that a little bit later all i got to basically do now is start taking all this stuff off here is a thrust washer there is a snap ring right here i'm going to take that out and all this parts are just going to fall right off if you remember at the beginning of the video i talked about how it is important to make sure that there's no pits or scoring inside that gear because it can't be replaced you'd have to replace the whole shaft there is also a place right here i don't know if you can see it if the light hits it just right there's like a wear mark that is right where the step up gear or the high gear i would would ride and it would be right about right there uh generally you don't want any more than like three thousands wear on these uh if you do the gear will start to wobble it will growl make a little bit of noise and then also you'll just prematurely wear out the teeth on the gear i go ahead and you can get a digital caliper or a micrometer measure the top or where that gear is measure the bottom and then right where the gear is to see how much wear you have uh like i said i'm right on the the the verge of being not okay i'd probably be okay but i went ahead and bit the bullet and got a brand new uh shaft when i go ahead and re reassemble this don't worry i'm going to say where i got all the parts i know people are going to ask me i'm going to give you names numbers websites whatever can be helpful unfortunately there's not a whole lot of parts available these gears and sleeves and stuff in front of me um you cannot buy new uh you have to find if you need one you have to find somebody that's parting the stuff out other than that the gaskets you can buy bearings you can buy some of the thrust washers you can buy but i'm going to go into that a little bit more in detail when i go ahead and start putting it together all right let's dive right back down into the case again uh we have three more gears you can see down here this is all one piece this is called the cluster gears or i call the counter shaft but anyhow you want to make sure that all the teeth are in good shape nothing abnormal going on um there is a shaft right here that you can see to get these out they it must be driven this way i'm going to put it in the shop press there are thrust washers at both ends uh you cannot buy these i looked high and low you used to you should be able to find them but everywhere i called that sell sherman parts i had no idea why they don't make them anymore but anyway the side to side action here is so minimal that it's it's pretty much perfect from what i gather that most of the time they really don't wear out too much fortunately uh if you are in a position where it's not good there's they're all beat up or something uh my suggestion is take it to a machine shop and have somebody uh just make it i'd take the whole shaft and everything but i'm going to go ahead and set this transmission case in the shot press and we're going to push all that out so now that the counter shaft is out you can see the thrust washers on either end when you go inside here you will push out a roller bearing on either end and then there is a spacer in the center now let's take a better look at this shaft here this is a pretty crucial part this is exactly a one inch diameter and you can see by the discoloration right here on either end that is where the bearings would have been rotating on if this is any more than say like three or four thousands where you might want to look into getting another one or if there's pits or any kind of scoring another reason to get another one if there's more wear than what there should be you're going to have a noise and you can also damage your brand new bearings a lot of times if you pull these out of the transmission and you see that these are crushed or broken in some way i guarantee you the shaft is the culprit that's what broke it so this particular one fortunately i i measured all around here i'm only getting about a thousands to two thousand square and i think we're going to be safe with that so i'm kind of relieved of that we can just uh move on to the next step since i have the shot press going here i'm just going to go ahead and start pressing some of these pieces apart i'm trying not to talk too much because well there's really not a whole lot of excitement going on here and i know my videos have a habit of being too long but i like to explain everything best i can just in case there's any questions what i'm going to be doing is just pushing out this shaft and the bearing i'm going to be removing the bearing there's a snap ring as well and then there's also a oil seal in the housing here [Music] so so so [Music] and last but not least the whole entire top shifting assembly i took off earlier i was saving this for the last there's a lot going on here that i need to touch base on here so first thing you want to look at is when you take these off is your forks here you like to see like a nice rectangular shape here okay slight wear here nothing to really worry about when it gets too bad it will actually wear into the fork here and that by then it would be junk you'd have to replace it you cannot buy new ones you'd have to find old ones so you can also see here these are set screws these are not your average set screw i believe they're called dog head i'll take them out here a little bit and show you this one is broken it was actually allowing this fork to just kind of float around it wasn't staying in position and that's why i was having a lot of shifting problems i was also having shifting problems uh underneath these bolt caps i'll take them off here in just a second you'll have a spring and a ball those are called detent springs and balls they are designed to hold the shaft in place when you go ahead and you shift it it will lock it into gear it won't jump out when you're pulling something with the tractor or going down a hill this shifting was really flopsy but when i took the one out half the spring was only there so the tension was was non-non-existent where the other one was so let me go ahead and take some of these pieces apart and let me get a better shot on this so with those caps taken off you saw me uh dump the springs and ball these are called detent springs detent balls the sole purpose of them is to put tension that ball will actually sit when i pull this shifter rail out it will sit right into that groove and when that caps on it creates a lot of tension that tension is what actually keep helps keep it uh into gear it kind of locks into there and then when you shift it it'll kind of spring back up now the problem i had a lot of slopping between high and low range and this was the culprit that spring should be the same length as that obviously there was not enough tension being uh forced onto that shifter rail and it was uh just kind of flopping around so i got brand new ones there was only one place that i could find these again like i said before in the videos i'm going to give a parts list out here once i get everything cleaned up and spread out here i'm going to go through that and give you guys where i got all my parts at with them completely removed now you can obviously see on the left hand side the issue why the fork was just kind of flopping around not staying in this spot that it's supposed to on the rail these are known as dog point when you have that tip like that smooth it is designed to fit into a notch in the in the shifting rail and it is supposed to be able to move slightly these are not meant to be cranked down and you know be tight i'm willing to bet that somebody at some point in time that had this transmission apart got a little too crazy and it broke it i don't know if you can tell but this one is actually bent unfortunately you cannot buy these exactly like these especially with the hole that hole is for wire the wire goes through the bolt head there and then there's another hole in the forks and everything's wired together and keeps them from coming loose it's kind of the old school way of doing things before loctite i guess you cannot buy these exactly the same i do have an alternative that's just going to work fine and i will show you them when it comes time to putting everything back together next we're going to look at this selector shaft right here and this is the selector fork there's a tiny woodruff key in there to prevent the fork to spin around on the shaft it is a common wear item that woodruff key causes this to have a lot of slop this does have some slop not terrible but you would definitely be able to feel it when you're shifting there is a small snap ring right here that's going to need to come off i'm going to put this in the press and i first have to push it down this way pop that cap off uh put you know something underneath there a socket or something and then drive that down through to expose the woodrow key gonna be hard to see in a video but i'll do my best uh also there is a crucial part that lies underneath this plug here that i'm taking out with a allen wrench this pin plays a very crucial role in the shifting of this transmission it would be in between these two grooves of these shafts now when you're moving and shifting these these shafts this pin will be bopping back and forth and the whole purpose of that is to prevent the transmission from going into two gears at one time you want to see a nice rounded edge or end i'm sorry on each side the one side here looks really good however the other side i don't know if you can see that but it is kind of developing a flat spot that is an issue so um i am going to have to make my own um unfortunately once again these are no longer available well there you have it you just saw some of the last few components get disassembled now that we thoroughly inspected everything i went ahead and cleaned everything up and have everything spread out here on the table just to give you an idea of just how many pieces are in one of these transmissions as promised i'm going to show you some of the new parts that i got for this rebuild and i'm going to share where i got them from now like i said several times before most of the parts in this transmission are not available new uh if you would need anything major you're going to have to find somebody who's parting one out or you're going to have to make it yourself and if you can't make it then you're going to have a machine shop do it there are a few companies that offer a complete rebuild kit however i would not use the word complete they are missing a few things that i feel should be in there but they aren't being made for whatever reason however i got the the kit at red rock manufacturing company it's out of iowa real nice guy to deal with i've bought things from him in the past through the years it comes with all the new bearings a new bearing race thrust washer grommet couple gaskets almost everything you need unfortunately it did not come with the detent springs it came with the balls but not the springs but i was able to find the springs at walterstractor.com they are out of missouri it was the only company that i found with these springs and as you can see in the picture there is also a little wood drift key that did not come from walters that just came from here local at a mom and pop hardware store not too far from me nothing real special there uh let's see uh mcmaster carr i got the new uh set screws for the shifting forks there um i also went ahead and got a 5 16 rod that it's also hardened hardened steel that i'm going to make the pin that keeps the transmission from going into two gears at one time i wanted something hard a lot of the stuff that you buy maybe off the shelf at a hardware store or something it might be too soft so i didn't want to take any chances with that also at the beginning of the video i showed where three set screws were located in the input shaft actually holds the input shaft bearing in place they were missing for whatever reason but i did find some three quarter inch set screws i got them from albany county fasteners dot com no real reason other than this company allows you to buy what you need as far as the number goes some companies will make you buy 25 or 50 at a time and i'll never need them so i just went ahead and bought from them and was able to get three and last but not least the brand new output shaft i walters tractors actually sell these uh but at the time of this video they did not have any in stock and they told me about cross creek tractor company they're out of alabama i never dealt with them before but i called them up real nice and they sent me a brand new output shaft they said they had 96 in stock at the time so hopefully they'll have them for quite a while and that's everything that i got everything is brand new we're ready to get rolling let's not waste one more minute we're gonna go ahead and start reassembling since we ended with the shifter assembly we're gonna start with it do okay so [Music] before i go ahead and slide the other shifter rail and fork in i want to put this pin in that i just made that you just saw in the video i went ahead and put it in the drill press and then i held a real fine stone up to it with a dremel tool and uh it worked out really well really pleased i actually had it all together to test it and it's working flawlessly so i'm going to drop that down into the hole put the plug back in and we can continue i'm getting ready to install the new dog point set screws or these are now going to be put in with an allen wrench the originals like i showed before are no longer available they used wire to hold them in place so they wouldn't come loose i'm not going to be able to use red loctite to hold them in place instead of wire it is important that you do not put these in and screw them down tight you're basically going to put them in as soon as it makes contact you're just going to back them out just a little bit that is because these shafts are actually rotating when you go and shift they rotate so they don't wear out in one place with the detent balls and and the other pin we're going to go ahead and put the counter shaft in i'm going to go ahead and grease all the new bearings and the the shaft and everything this helps keep everything together when you drop it down into the case uh it's a little bit of a struggle it's kind of takes some some patience to get everything together especially holding these thrust washers in i'm going to go ahead and put some grease on the outer end here it'll kind of glue them in place i'm going to save you from watching some of the struggle here but this grease will help hold everything somewhat together so i'm going to go ahead and push the shaft in with the shot press it's a pressed fit while it is in there i'm going to go ahead and also press in the new bearing race into place as you can see it is now in place i think i failed to mention uh before with these thrust washers i know i mentioned that you cannot buy them you do not want any more than 25 000 of end play and no less than five thousands we're at about fifteen thousands here so uh we're good we don't need to uh worry about that it's got plenty of wear left so next we can go ahead and replace the oil seal for the input shaft it always comes up on the internet or question of which way does an oil still go you'll have an opening and you can even see a spring inside of there most of the time that opening you always want to have it facing towards the oil so in here in this housing it's going to go down in here you'll be sitting like this the oil would be in here where your gears are so you would want that opening to actually be facing upward when you go ahead and press it in there [Music] [Music] so two now that the input shaft has been pressed into the housing we're going to go ahead and use these brand new set screws these are cone notice the point they have to be a a cone or a point because this point will actually go just over top of the bearing and hold it in place when you go ahead and put them down into these holes it's important that you do not over tighten these you could possibly damage the bearing but go ahead and screw them all the way down in firm but not not too crazy i'm going to go ahead and press the new bearing onto the brand new output shaft and i'm not going to show that just to save some time for the video but you want to put your slinger oil slinger on i'll talk a little bit more about that when i go to actually put it on the tractor and then you're going to put the bearing you want to press that down on the whole way till it's making contact and flat and then a brand new thrust washer on top of that we can go ahead and start assembling the main shaft i have the brand new output shaft with the bearing pressed on this is low gear i'm going to slide that on first then you have a long spline sleeve there is a short one but that goes on the front this is the long one you want to put that on then you have a shifting collar you want to slide that on next the teeth will go inside of the low gear then you'll have next your high gear again your teeth will want to be facing this direction here is the short spline sleeve then we have another shifting collar this time the teeth are going to face that way and then we have a snap ring and then a thrust washer and then a new needle bearing that's going to go on the end here when you're ready to put your input shaft on you want to see this slot here in the casting you want that facing down that is for oil to drip if your seal should fail that way it will not travel out down the splines and into your clutch disc and cause it to slip you're gonna have to jiggle it a little bit work its way in we now have a fully rebuilt sherman transmission i don't know if any of you caught it but i did not put the gaskets on the top or on the input shaft housing there is a reason for that i'm going to be and when i go to install this in the tractor i need to have this off so i can set the bearing preload you also need a mounting plate that's going to go on the back and there's going to be shims i'm going to cover all that in the next video when i go ahead and actually install this into a 1948 48n tractor i hope this shed some light on a lot of the questions about these transmissions if you have any questions or comments please feel to write them down below and i will get back to you other than that thanks for watching and hope to see you in the next video

Channel: Jason1Pa

Views: 6,254

Keywords: Sherman Transmission, Ford Sherman, Ford Tractor, N series, Ford N Series, Ford 8N, Ford 2N, Ford 9N, Sherman Rebuild, Tractor Restoration, Tractor Clutch, Tractor clutch, Ford clutch, Sherman Combination, Select O Speed, Ford SOS, Farmall, John Deere, Silver King, Massey Harris, Ford tractor rebuild, Antique Tractor, Classic Tractor Fever, Steiner Tractor Parts, Rachel Gingell, Carving a path

Id: yRPcORp0Iqs

Length: 37min 46sec (2266 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 25 2022