Flip-Top Tool Stand with integrated cable management | Mobile Workstation

in our driveway I started by breaking down 18 millimeter birch plywood my daughter was supervising the whole process and made sure I stick to the plan after a few cuts the plywood was handy enough to continue in the shop I ripped the clean edge on each piece with Fritz and Franz and made a second drip cut to the final width with the RIP fence then I could cross cut the pieces from left with my t-square I marked the positions where the pocket holes would go you can skip the step and just place them by eye which works totally fine speaking of pocket holes correct the sponsor of this video hooked me up with their k4 Master System I secured to Jake - to scrap pieces that form an L and could clamp it in my vise but the adjustment of the depth stop of the drill bit the jig offers the scale since I used eighteen millimeter from material I said to stop to the next larger setting of 19 millimeters the same applied for the drill guide in the Jake itself then I inserted the dust collection attachment unfortunately my dust port didn't fit but nothing a piece of duct tape couldn't fix I aligned the marks of my boards with the marks on the jig and clamp it tight turn on the dust collection and here we go I was really impressed by how well the dust collection work on this jig this couldn't only save me the hassle of cleaning my shop but also leads to cleaner pocket holes after I've applied some glue to the edges I clamped the parts for the main cabinet together with a right angle clamp and added a bar clamp with the 25 millimeter coarse threaded screws I screwed it in place I did the same for the other side and made sure the parts stay flush by holding it in position with a face clamp as usual when I try to make something square it wasn't dead on and I forced it square after the glue has dried I marked the location for the holes where the bar for the flip top will be with a 27 millimeter Forstner bit I drilled the hole halfway through and because I found the slow motion mode on my camera you get this slo-mo shot of the chips flying away in the center of the hole I drilled all the way through with my smallest drill bit then I could finish the hole from the other side and end up with a tear out free and perfect hole in order to make the flip top flip it rotates on a three-quarter inch steel water pipe I slipped it through the holes and gave it a little strength test with a couple of pull ups strong enough for me trap the exact distance between the two sides I used one of the board's that will be the top later on as a spacer on one end I marked the pipe flush with a side panel and on the other side I added my material thickness of 18 millimeters that day I was not in the mood of setting my shop on fire and went outside to cut the steel pipe I used an angle grinder with a cutting disc or steel and really enjoyed seeing the sparks in the pipe [Music] back in the shop I eat the edges with a file the flip top is made of two plywood panels sandwiched together with a pipe in the middle to compensate for the steel pipe I used some solid beech I had laying around from another project i milled it to the exact thickness of the pipes outer diameter I ripped the beach to 60 millimeter strips and cross cut them to length to long strips hold the pipe in the center and pieces along the edges to make sure it becomes a sturdy top with wood glue and a couple of screws I attached the beech strips to the plywood in order to ensure a tight and wiggle free fit I lightly clamped the pipe between the center strips before screwing the remaining pieces to the plywood next I place my sander on top of it and Mark the screw hole locations I added a strip of wood at each location to give the screws a little more to bite on when the sander will get installed for the drill press I could use one of the strips in the center after spreading the glue I dropped the second plywood panel on top of it I made sure it is flush and added a clamp or two more than necessary when I test fit at the top I realized I made the hole for the pipe too high and therefore the top was not flush with the sides to accommodate for it i milled to beach strips to size and glued them in place with a couple of pieces of tape to apply clamping pressure the cabinet has two side compartments the left one has a front a back and the bottom and is accessible from the side and the top the top acts as another work surface I marked pocket hole locations on all the panels and drilled them with the same settings as before to make assembly easier I use my bar clamps as a stop and screw to compartment together I stroke a line where the bottom of the side compartment should be this is crucial since the casters get screwed to the compartment and make the center portion of the cabinet hovering just two centimeters over the ground you'll see what I mean later on I screwed a compartment on the bottom and decides to the cabinet for the left compartment I followed the same procedure the top is a bit tricky because of the drawers that open in two different directions the two side panels only have an overlap at a small square in front to enforce this glue joint I use a six millimeter wood dowel then I could apply glue and attach the top to the compartment the left compartment is inset 18 millimeters to the front of the cabinet in order to accommodate for the draw fronts and make them flush with the cabinet on top where the draw opens to the side I needed a trim to make the top flush with the drawers as well onto the step that gave me the most headache in this project breaking down a full sheet of 12 millimeter ply in my shop for the drawers it was raining outside and I couldn't do it in a driveway what you don't see I had to roll the bandsaw out of the shop disassemble the fence of my jointer roll it elsewhere in my shop and clean up all the junk that has piled up on my router table / outfeed table and still the dust holes blocking my way duct tape for the rescue yes I was happy this step was done from there on the drawers were a piece of cake formatting sheet goods on a slider feels so productive and a joy to following cuts very much alright all the parts for the drawers were cut and it was time for some more potholes I changed the settings to 12 millimeters on the jig and drilled holes in the front and backs of the drawers for the Assembly of the drawer boxes the young lady from quality management was paying me a visit again this time she assisted me by hand picking the screws I installed to draw bottoms right away by making sure the size of the drawers flush with the bottom the drawers end up perfectly square I drilled some holes countersunk them and drove in the hand-selected screws plywood usually is pretty smooth so I only gave it a very light to twenty grit sanding with a chamfer bit in my trim router I tackled the edges and really liked the look of the plywood facets as a finish I used ausma and in order to save some time I applied it with a paint roller it worked great and the cavernous was finished pretty fast to build your own flip top tool stand I have a detailed set of plans on my website you can find the link for it in description below this video the edges got an extra thick coat since the end grain and the plywood soaks up much more finish for drawer installation I started with the top drawer that opens to the side to have a reference surface I clamped a scrap piece to the bottom of the side of the cabinet unto that I could place my drawer slide and because it is an inset drawer front I placed a slide to the inside edge of the cabinet front after screwing the slide in place I cut a spacer that fit between the top and the draw slide as a reference for the other side and installing the second slide when smooth to attach the draw box I clamped the crack draw a slide jigs to the cabinet and place the draw box on top of it with the slides flush to the front of the box I could screw them down I always have a deck of cards lying around in the shop for spacing parts equally I fit as many cards as possible in the hole gap and then divide them up into the number of gaps I put some double-sided tape on the draw a box fronts to hold the front and apply some glue using the cards as spacers I press the front onto the box then I was able to open the draw and secure the front with a clamp a couple of screws from the back make sure this front is going nowhere for the drawers that open to the other side I registered lower pair of slides on the bottom of the cabinet after installing the bottom drawer box I use the scrap piece to position the next set of drawer slides with the bottom drawer and the slides fully extended I applied the card trick to attach the second drawer box I worked my way to the top with this method now was a good time to add some temporary drawer pulls out of tape attaching the drawer fronts was very similar to the other draw I had already installed double-sided tape glue a clamp and a few screws from the back the district the cards made sure the gaps were even once again and they did their job pretty well after marking Center on the fronts I attached some draw poles I had on hand if you haven't yet make sure to subscribe to my channel as I'm about to make more cool projects then I attached the Castor's to the bottom of the side compartments and double check they could swivel around freely somehow I made it work but it was definitely not favorable for my back by sliding the water pipe through the top I finally gave the tool card its coolest feature remember that I made the pipe 1 material thickness longer than the cabinet is wide this is for the two end caps that gives additional support for the pipe I took two rectangular pieces of plywood and drilled a hole in the size of the pipe halfway through then I switched to a smaller force in a bit and continued to hold this is necessary for the power cord that will run in the pipe and a small chamfer will save the cord from wearing down the flip-top needed a way of locking it in its two positions therefore I got these spring-loaded indexing pits I mark their location and use the backboard when drilling the 12 millimeter hole to avoid tear out I traced the shape of the nut with my marking knife and chisel to recess for it the flip-top would otherwise interfere with the protruding nut with a washer on the outside I fastened the indexing pins and it worked great I used for indexing pins one on each corner but in hindsight I think the two in the front are enough and make the flipping operation even faster I wanted to be able to have both machines on a tool stand plugged in all the time and don't worry about the stupid cords therefore I decided to run a main cord through the center of the pipe and hook it up to both sides of the flip top with the cord and the pipe I hooked it up to a small distributor box that connects to an additional outlet and the extension cord that gets plugged into the wall each side of the flip top received an outlet that are connected with another cord that goes through the top important to note with my setup is that the top cannot turn endlessly in the same direction because the court and the pipe would spiral up and break eventually finally I could place the machines I pre-drilled the holes for the fasteners and type them if you're wondering why I'm using these rusty bolts it's because these are the very same bolts my granddad used to attach this drill press to his workbench years ago the belts for my belt Center tend to take away too much so a holder for DS was way overdue a piece of scrap cut a bit longer than the bells a wide makes a great storing solution to prevent the bells from sliding off I created a hook the bandsaw some magic to make the holder look a bit nicer to pocket screws and I don't have to worry about these guys anymore for the cast iron table of my sander I needed a holder as well therefore I sandwiched a bunch of scraps together to receive the thorn of their table and drill pocket holes to be able to attach it to the cabinet no fancy joinery here with just glue and screws now the table has a nice place to go the top could still rotate freely around the pipe and I realized this could break the cables inside a beefy school connects the top and the pipe I designed the cart in a way to have a third work surface on which my pocket hole jig has a permanent spot the drawer underneath is for all the accessories drill bits bits clasp and screws of course I loaded up all the other girls as well drill bits more drill bits special drill bits and more special drill bits for crack accessories and accessories for my sander and here it is looks a bit like a lowrider and I like it the integrated cable management is so convenient since you only have to plug in that extension cord the flipping feature works beautifully and the spring-loaded indexing pins make it enjoyable the third work surface with its dedicated drawers is now always ready for some pocket holes and the other drawers provide plenty of storage thanks for watching this video if you want to get more details on this project as well as a set of plans follow the link in description to the full article on my website otherwise YouTube says this is the best video for you to keep watching

Channel: Bau-Woodworks

Views: 300,986

Keywords: flip top tool stand, flip top, flip top tool station, flip top workbench, flip top tool bench, workshop station, shop project, tool cart, tool stand, rotating tool stand, flip cart, flip top tool cart, mobile workstation, power tools, planer stand build, shop cart build, woodworking projects for beginners, diy, how to, diy project, bauwoodworks, bau woodworks, workshop, woodworking, maker, how to make, shop cart, flip top workbench build, dual flip top workbench

Id: jjMIZYkPNDQ

Length: 16min 39sec (999 seconds)

Published: Sun May 31 2020