- In this video, you're
going to learn step by step a countertop masterclass that will save or make you thousands. It'll also save 10x your time. Stay tuned. Everything is included
right here, right now. You got this. (upbeat music) Remember, all your
pressure is going to the back elbow of the roller so
that as you roll away from the tip of your roller, you're automatically
removing the lap lines. That's the key is we're
going to add enough water to let it thin out. We're going to back roll. And I like to do it
two or three times with brand new rollers. That way we remove those lap lines. It's a very tight finish. You're not going to believe
how simple this hack is. It's a construction piece
of gold. It's a gold nugget. We're going to teach you
all the steps right now. Guys, I've been working
with epoxy the better part of my adult life. I've had a lot of experience
playing with additives and trying different things. That's the benefit of this channel. You get to learn from our
victories as well as our failures. And the failures is what gets
you to where you are today. So I'm super grateful for
the experience that I have, but that's come to this moment. This is the coolest project
I think I've ever worked on, and I almost forgot. Stay tuned. Enjoy the video. Have you ever noticed
that walls aren't square in new construction? That's a fact. A template is how you
overcome not being square. I'm going to use acetone,
that's going to weld to our template material almost instantaneously. That'll transfer these
measurements from this cabinet to our top, to a T. I'm just getting rough measurements. All you gotta do is
score this and snap it. It's really easy to work with. So that'll go on my back wall. This will be my side supports. Grab one more piece for my front wall, score it, snap it. What I like to do is tape
my pieces down temporarily. So I just tape it down
temporarily to that cabinet. Now I'm just right there on
the front of that face frame, see, and then I'll do the
same thing to the back. There's that piece. Got one here. And this is how you get your
countertops to fit as if they grew in the space. So the key is, is you want
this dry and dust-free wherever you acetone it together. I'm just going to take a little
bit of acetone right there, come back, hold it tight
for about ten seconds. A little bit right here. It does not take a lot of acetone. And acetone melts the plastic together and does it really fast. Center right there. And then I'm going to mark
Xs where the front edge is. That's wall. That's how you template
any space to perfection. This will follow those walls. It doesn't matter if it's square. I love our template material. If you're a craftsman, if
you're cutting out tile, if you're cutting out unique shapes, if you're doing alcoves, entryways, if you're doing cabinets,
countertops and more, template material is an absolute must. Guys, check it out on our
website at StoneCoatCountertops. - All right. Mike did a really
good job on this template. I have to add my standard overhang, which is one and a half
inches to the front only because we're pinned in between walls. I need a level, if it's
not out here already. Add an inch and a half. You got it? - Got it. - When creating countertops
on site from wood, we like to use a circular
saw and a jigsaw to make real fast work out of this step. - I'm going to go dry fit that
before I cut the next one. We'll see if it fits. Nice. - When you're working with
small vanities that aren't been between two walls, you can save time by measuring
and making your countertops without using template material. Draw up the cabinets
from a bird's eye view, make note of all those measurements. We're going to transfer those
measurements to a sheet of MDF, and we're ready to
make some countertops. - So the vanity would look
a little bit puny with only three quarters. Granite is an inch and an
eighth to an inch and a quarter. So we're going to double these up, make it an inch and a half, give it a nice rock-face
edge on that front edge. Tile backsplash on the back and sides. This vanity is going to be sweet. (upbeat music) - Back at the shop, we're picking
up right where we left off and adding a rock-face chiseled edge. This is our favorite style of edge. Here, Mike is using a
utility knife to cut the edge at different angles and lengths
to easily mimic a chiseled rock-faced edge. Use a jigsaw to around
any corners as desired, and don't do repeated motion
with your utility knife. This can cause your rock-face
edge to look really manmade. - How do you like the
new trick with the knife on the rock face, man? - I was worried about dusting
out your entire house. On site I'm scratching
my head the whole time we're doing this going, "Catherine's not going to
like the dust coming up." So that was a huge unlock. You just take a really
sharp utility knife. It cut like butter. - And we did that here too
just because it works so good on site. No more, no more dusting out the shop. - No. - Next step in the rock-faced edge: mix up small purpose Bondo. Start with smaller batches
if you're not comfortable working with Bondo. Don't worry. It's a lot
like working with Play-Doh on a seven minute timer. Fill any screw or nail holes. We use our gloved hands
and a Bondo spreader to apply it to the edges. As the Bondo begins to set up, rub those edges and tap with
your fingertips to mimic a chiseled edge. Don't worry about any sharp points. We will be back to smooth the
edge when the Bondo dries. (upbeat music) Time to apply two coats of
Stone Coats epoxy undercoat. We've designed our undercoat
to dry extremely fast and be ready for epoxy with no
need to wait 24 hours. You can pour mixed epoxy over
our undercoat in as little as two hours. We have two color options
available, white and black. The undercoat can also be
tinted to create your very own custom color. - We have a massive pour today. I'm going to start with
the smallest pieces. Why? I want to perfect my recipe. I want to get this dialed
so that when I get to that large island, when I get to that kitchen
that's over 150 square feet, I want to have it just systematic
and ready to rock and roll where I don't think about my recipe. So I get to really take my
time and have some fun with the smaller vanity pieces. That's a pro tip. If you're doing a single kitchen, start with the smallest piece, maybe the piece just right of
that cooktop that's just a two by one foot piece. Get that dialed in. If you're working for a
customer, snap a photo of that if you're doing it off site. Send them the photo prior
to doing everything else. Get that approved. Tell
them, Hey, do you love it? If so, approve it in this text. And then you'll never show up
on site with the surprise that may cause a frown. Let's turn that frown upside down. Let's get this recipe rocking and rolling. Let's get started. Remember,
you got this. Here we go. All right, we have prepped. Let me show you what I mean by prep. I got all of my colors ready. I'll go over that recipe in a bit, but this is Mike's favorite recipe. I got my help. I got my, my
brother right here, Matt. I got my brother, Mitch.
You guys know Mitch. we're going to do this
together because this is a passion project. This is where our family is
going to come for years to come to do family reunions and events. And we're going to rent this place out. It's going to be for
conferences and family reunions. This is going to be a place to come relax, enjoy the great outdoors, and really connect with mother nature. We're trying to keep this
looking like natural stone. We want this place to
feel a certain feeling. So my brother's going to help me do that. All of these pieces here are
prepped. You saw us template. You saw us cut this on site. We brought the small pieces
here because we wanted to make a mess here and not in the new house. So we've got plastic down.
All these tables are leveled. We got our sander ready. So we're going to start
with that small piece. I'm going to show you my
favorite recipe right now. If you guys want a natural stone recipe, I highly recommend this. Now this right here, this
fire orange. Oh yeah. Fire orange. - Ooh. - That will freak most people out. But I love it because it
looks like rust deposit. And I use very little. When we mix this up, I'm gonna
have my brothers help me mix. But the key is, is to go
easy on the black. Okay? - Easy on the black. - Black will take over your projects. It'll really make it dark
and hide everything else if you use too much. So pro tip, Matt's not
going to touch the black. So here's what we're going to use. Of course, we're going
to use white metallic. I'm going with pewter metallic. And then one of my very
favorite additives. This is a Stone Coat OG.
It is the diamond dust. This thing blings out everything. It gives you that metallic look
without the look of glitter. It's man glitter. It's not feminine. It looks like stone.
It's the diamond dust. All right. And then
we're going fire orange. We're going to go a brass,
antique brass metallic. We're going to go silver metallic. And, of course, any of you
who've been watching our YouTube channel for years,
the black and the white. This is classic. The moment that you add black and white, it adds contrast to a rainbow. Okay. And then, finally, dyes. I'm going to use white dye and black dye. Now this isn't a huge palette. Okay. I got five spray paints. I got
three metallics and two dyes. But the key is, is three
different additives. These additives, the
propellant in the spray paint will fight the dye, will
also fight the metallic. The metallic will rise. It'll separate. I'm going to hit some isopropyl alcohol. I'm going to do some spray fracturing. I'm going to run some veins. I'm going to play with these
because I get to look at these for, for a very long time, right? - Yes. - When we come gather in this space, my hope is that Mitch and
Matt and I remember this day, we remember creating these. We remember, you know, we talk
about it. We have some fun. We're going to put our
love into this today, man. - Heck yeah. I'm excited. Cool colors. - You guys ready? - One more thing, folks, let
us know in the comments below who's got the best beard. - Already know the winner of that, bro. - I wonder why he said that. - He's ready to lose. - This is our classic Stone
Coat countertop epoxy. It's designed for the do-it-yourselfer, and it's been time tested
for the contractor. Thousands upon thousands of
kitchens have been coated with Stone Coat epoxy. In fact, we've had to
stop the world from trying to coat everything. This isn't designed for
your motorcycle or your car. This is for your countertops,
tabletops, desktops, and more. We're going to start with part B. We're going to continue with part A. It's a one-to-one ratio. Mix for two minutes using a drill, and then we'll start the additive fun. Here we go. (upbeat music) Okay. Right here, I like to
do this to let it drip down. Here we go. Guys, we're using a lot
more than this little piece is going to use. Don't think we're mixing up all this epoxy for one tiny vanity. This is for multiple vanities. And I'm excited to see,
you know, number one, that the uniqueness of each
piece because we are going to do an exotic pour, but
we're going to hybrid that. We're going to do some fracturing. We're going to do some added veins. I'm going to let the
exotic pour do its thing. And then we're going to come
back and wherever those veins naturally are, we're going to accentuate
that with some high contrast white and black, maybe some fire orange. Heck, I might even add some
some different additives in some spots just to make each and
every piece a little bit unique. - Now that the epoxy is
mixed, it's time to tint. Stone Coats metallic powders
and epoxy dyes are very concentrated, and a little
bit goes a long way. We use a Popsicle stick to mix, ensure the metallic powders
are fully incorporated, and no clumps are left behind. (upbeat music) - A little bit of silver. - Look at this. Look at a little
orange and white together. That looks like an Onyx color already. - That is cool. - Maybe I'll add one to like a white, just to give me a gray tone. - Pewter. This comes out rally slick. - Look at that, bro. - That's black. - That's how concentrated those dyes are. That's why you don't add much black. Now I'm going to leave a
little bronze on my stick. Let's go for that. You really just want to add
a bunch of different colors together is what we're trying to do. And I'm leaving that kind
of under mixed, see that? Shake those spray paints up, and we'll add some spray paint here. - Building the exotic
pour bucket is one of my favorite steps. Randomly pour back into
the larger mixing bucket your tinted epoxy. Take time to apply accent
colors of spray paint between some layers. Have fun with this step
and don't overthink it. There's no wrong way to
build the exotic pour bucket. Just don't take a stick and give it a mix. (upbeat music) - There's some clear. There some more white, dye,
some of our marbled color, a little bit more silver,
a little bit more brass. - Randomly pour out your bucket. You can do this any way you wish. Front to back, side to side, ring pour, The most important rule
here is to have fun with it. The epoxy will continue
to self-level and meld, leaving behind a very
realistic stone countertop. When using this epoxy technique, we mix up four to five ounces of epoxy per square foot of countertops. You can mix up as many
batches to coat all your countertops as necessary. Stone Coat epoxy was designed
and formulated for the DIY-er. There's no nasty smell. You have tons of time
to work with the epoxy, over 45 minutes. There's no need to be in a rush. Your countertops will continue
to meld and self-level. It's going to be epic. - Okay. Ring pour time. I think I'm going to mix up some white. Remove that taping. (upbeat music) So Matt used all the excess. Did you spray spray paint in here too? - I did, yes. - Nice. So he made a mini cup. This is what I call my touch-up cup. So I'm going to let, you know
what I'm gonna do with this is I'm just going to do a vein, Matt. So see, see this right here? - I'm nervous right now. - Okay. Watch. - Ooh. - That's neat. Right? - Yeah. - See how it followed the
natural pour of that thing? - Look at that. - All right. Let's go find
some more of that to do. We could actually, like, come right here. See how it wants to go that way? We're going to come here. We'll come here next to
this one just to give us some contrast. (upbeat music) Now we're just going to go
mix up some cups like this. I'll mix up some more. You're going to mix up little
dirty pour cups like this with mostly white. No pewter. Cause I've over pewtered
some of these, right? So we're going to go contrast
with mostly white and orange. And I liked things like this under mixed, as opposed to over mixed,
except for the powders. The dyes, I like them under mixed. I'm liking this cup better, dude. This is literally no pewter, right? - Mm-mm. It's only got
the silver metallic. Here's some pewter if you're ready. - Yeah. I'm not going to put it in. We're doing a lot of epoxy today. Guys, are you enjoying this video? Do you enjoy this technique?
It's easy. It's stress-free. Let me know in the comments below. That's pretty sick. I like having the multiple
buckets, man, of, like, total difference here. - A contrasting exotic pour
bucket will add eye-catching veins and realism to any project. Many natural stone countertops
have large sections of contrasting colors. Mike did a wonderful job
mixing up this bucket. These vanities just
went from good to great. (upbeat music) - Okay. I got to go add some
more blue. That was sick. I don't want to add too much blue. So you just leave it on the top, and then you could add that vein. And it's really fun doing them
like this because, honestly, the more layers the better. Ooh, like you said, I like this flow. I don't want to mess with that, but I'm going to add another vein. That is so sick. Look at it. Look at
where it's laid out here. This is your cup of many colors, Matt. - Wow. - This coat, you don't want to
over torch it because you'll get it to move more than you want. It really doesn't matter if
you get all the air bubbles out of this one. (upbeat music) You learn by going outside the box, right? That black just made my day. Take this stick, and I'm just
going to trace some of these. And that just brings some
color around each color so it doesn't look like a solid color. 'Cause that's not what
mother nature has, is solid. Okay. Ready for this? - Ready. (upbeat music) - Just using black spray paint
and 91% isopropyl alcohol. - Just clear. - Yeah. Just clear. I'm going to pour this
vein right down here to make this one come to life. Actually, I'll put white down at first, and then I'll go right over that white. - Cool. It's pretty, Mike. Look at that. - That looks pretty wild, dude. You got some blue spray paint handy? - We just watched an epoxy
master level up these tops with many different
simple epoxy techniques. Stone Coat epoxy is very customizable. Keep it nice and subtle or
full sinned to exotic stone. Mike's final step here is to
drizzle some fracture line. We're going to let this
epoxy cure two to three hours before removing the tape. When you allow the epoxy to
set up for a couple hours after mixing, the color techniques will
sit right where you left them and stay very detailed. Another benefit, your edges
will turn out fantastic. The epoxy will be thicker, leaving behind high
definition edge detail. Peel the tape from the top
down to help encourage the thicker epoxy to flow
over the edges uniform. Use your gloved finger to
make any dry areas wet. (upbeat music) We're going to let these
tops cure overnight, come back, and get rid of those drips. Quickly remove cured epoxy
drips from the underside of the countertops with our 50-grit
metal fiber sanding disc and backer on your grinder. You can also use a random orbital sander. (upbeat music) - Time for the ultimate top coat. We've shook up part A, again,
it's a two to one ratio. We're going to do the
four-roller technique. We've graduated from two
rollers to four rollers. The drier the better on that
final roll and a light pressure on that elbow for the lap lines. Guys, practice makes
perfect and perfect practice makes even perfecter. So guys, try this on a
sample board, go get a table, do it on something that
is good practice for you. Watch this video 1, 2, 3, or 4
times and hit the like button that many times. But if you do, then
it, like, it goes from, if you've hit like, it goes
to unlike, back to like, unlike. It shows momentum on the video.
That's all we care about. Guys, we've been adding more water. I'd say about 10% by volume. You don't want to go much
more than 10% by volume. But what I've noticed is
getting this a little bit more liquidy allows it to roll
out and be a tighter coat, less microscopic bumps. But those bumps, remember,
are also why we're durable. It allows things on a microscopic
level to slide across the surface as opposed to
gouge into the surface. It's like having ball bearings
on the surface of your countertop made out of urethane
and special ingredients that are tough stuff. AKA proprietary ingredients. AKA things I can't even pronounce. - Did you, about that much? - Yup. - Okay. Time to go, baby. I'm going to actually
start on the biggest one. The biggest one would be
the hardest one to hide the lap lines in. So that's why we're starting there. (upbeat music) Okay. First, dry roller. And then you really only
need one guy dry rolling. We're going to need
another dry roller, though, if someone wants to get it prepped. You're gonna see a little
bit of a milky finish, and that's just because
it's a water-based product. That's okay. It will go away. Finish going with the grain
flow of your countertop, so that if any lap
lines do happen to show, it gets camouflaged with the grain. All the pressure's on
this outside elbow here, because I'm erasing, I'm
going up at a slight angle, so you don't see any line. And that's an old painting
trick that if you apply here, you're going to get good results. This is like putting
armor on this thing, man. - Let the top coat dry for
24 hours before transporting to the job site. You can begin light use in your
kitchen with your brand new epoxy countertops in as
little as the next day. Folks, we're heading back to the job site. We're going to install the
sinks, backsplash, and more. Stay tuned. (upbeat music) - So as long as you get a center
point that's perpendicular, and you put that on your front edge, your back hole will stay
square to your front edge, and you can make a quick sink template. So that's going to go here. So see the center line? No,
you can leave that there. Now, this is a pounded
copper, irregular shape. So I'm going off the center right here, kind of as my visual, and then I'm going to trace the outside. And then I know that I got
about an inch and a half lip. So I'll come in probably
three quarters of an inch. Okay. So if I go here, there's my rim. And then we're going to say three quarters would
be plenty, wouldn't it? I'll use my tape, and
I'll just start making registration marks. A hardcore game of connect
the dots at Denny's. This is, I was really good at that. So we're learning how to
install top-mount sinks and under-mount sinks right now. And then this is going to be our cutout. - There it is. (upbeat music) - 11. Let's see. 11 to 3/8
there. 11 and 3/8 exactly. And we put that right center of that, and that's where the sink will go. (upbeat music) You got a sink? - I sure do. - Really a clean cutout, man. Look how nice that looks. - It's going to look beautiful, though. - Guys, you getting
value out of this video? Are you learning how
to do sinks like a pro? Subscribe, ring the bell to
get notified every time we have new tutorial videos
because that's what we do. We teach you to create your
own works of do-it-yourself, functional art, whether it
be kitchens and bathrooms, fireplaces, mantels,
tables, floors, and more. You're going to learn it in this channel. Here we go. Let's cut this one out. (upbeat music) A little wobble around that
one, but that the joy of a... - Dude, that's cool. - You ready? So this is all I do here.
Just add some blobs. Stay away from too much blobs, and then it won't ooze out for me. That's all you need right there. One down, five to go. You can see I'm not putting
blobs on the front 'cause it'll ooze out the front, but I am putting blobs where
they have room to ooze out, and a hundred percent silicone, Mitch and I have done a lot
of demos on other substrates, and it grabs really well. So it's easier. - This was a really cool step. We created our very own
backsplash for this project by molding stacked granite tiles. We then reproduce them with
rapid-set concrete with polymer added. Click the link in the description
below for a more in-depth tutorial on mold making. We use some of our stone spray
spray paint and marble spray to color these tiles. The next step, we applied
Stone Coats ultimate top coat to protect the backsplash. This backsplash will be
for install the next day. Whenever you are gluing in
a top or under-mount sink, use 100% silicone. We like to tape off the area, leaving a nice clean line of
silicone when you remove the excess with your fingertip. Acetone cleans up the silicone
really well if you happen to have any spills. Let the silicone dry at
least 24 hours before using these sinks. - Don't stay in there longer
than 15 minutes, though. - I'm doing it. Ooh. You want to try it with
me? There's plenty of room. - There is. - Oh, it's hot, dude. It's
only started warming up. - Fat guy in a little sauna. - You got this. Oh, it's hot. If you stay in here and work outside, it would feel like arctic. - It would. This is pretty neat. - Look at the light. - It's got Bluetooth. - Excellent magazine cover here. - MP3, bro. Auxiliary. - Yeah. - This is high-end. - Yeah. - Could have been a little wider. - I'm not sure, I'm not sure
if the advertisement on the two-person sauna is accurate. However, our shoulders
are holding each other up. - I think it would be two
people in the country of origin. - Yes. I think. - Bro, I'm right by the... - Countries east of here. - Do you have a heater right
next to you over there? - Holy. - It's a blasting me. - I'm out of here. - I don't think I wore deodorant today. - That'll be good. ♪ Stone Coat Countertops. You got this. ♪
