Fine roll hem for sheers

this is a chiffon dress that lives in the study collection in the museum at fit as you can see here it's all kind of pleated and rouched and looking at the inside what you can see it's a ready to wear but very nice ready to wear Chanel dress the elastics that you see the white one on the upper part of the inside of the body pulls the Garment down snug against the rib cage onto the bust while the lower one is What's called the waist stay this waist stay anchors to the bones holding the strapless garment up so that it doesn't slip down what we're really looking at though is the Hem now as you can see in this closeup of the Hem you can kind of gauge the scale by looking at my wedding ring and the palm my hand this is an extremely thin extremely flexible hem for finishing thin Fabrics like chiffons organzas gettes and that is the lesson that we're going to be showing you now to begin as you can see here I have silk organza you can see that I have drawn the line now this line represents the finished edge of the fabric whether it be chiffon whether it be organza I'm using organza because it's easier for a demonstration now I like to draw this line with the heat disappearing pens this is one of those times where you can mark it on either side because the um the Mark is going to hide in the Hem so we like to mark this on the wrong side of the fabric now the other thing you need is this is Goodman Mara 30 this is a button hole thread it's a top stitching thread it's a little thicker than your regular machine thread because with this hem we're going to work the stitching over the gon Mara 30 so now we have our material let's go over to the machine here we are at the machine so a little conversation first about the needles and the thread you want to find a fine thread um you could use a fine rayon machine embroidery thread you could use a really fine um gmon polyester the needle is a a number seven or number eight you want a fine fine needle because you're sewing through a fine fabric so I have cut a piece of the mara3 and I have the sample here so the object here I have the fabric with the back the reverse side up and so what we want to do the object here is we want to there there we go we want to put the needle into the fabric so then that the our thread and the mara 30 bump up against the needle now the Stitch is a zigzag the width is 1.0 the length is 1.0 it's a very narrow short zigzag so you get it going and so here this is a little trick and I'm going to show you this from another camera angle as well um you hold the thread up at about a 45° angle once you get this going and if you hold the thread up you don't want to put any tension on the thread you don't want to gather the fabric onto to the thread so you hold it with just enough tension to have it lay down against the fabric but not so much that it draws up the fabric and [Music] so what I'm going to do now is change camera angles and I'll show you what this looks like from the side now you can see I'm holding the thread at roughly 45° angle and I like to give a little bit of pull lengthwise on the seam so it holds flat as I'm sewing so keeping the thread at a 45° angle you don't really have to worry about steering the thread you just have to make sure that when you're sewing you hit the um line so let me just zoom in so you can see that a little better here it's just a useful thing to know so as you can see it's just following the line but the zigzag is holding the thread in the proper position so now what I'm going to do is I'm going to go off camera and sew a little more and I will meet you back back towards the end so I'm near the end as you can see okay so now let me take the work out and give you a look so what you can do if you have a little bit of Rippling you can kind of just slide it down but this is what it's going to look like from the back this is what it will look like from the front from here we're going to go over to the pressing table so here we are again just to show you what we've done now this is the wrong side of the fabric the reverse so you want that face up we're going to put this on the sleeve board [Music] and give it a good press maybe give it a little bit of a stretch to make sure that all the ripples are pressed out so it should be it should look like so so now what we're going to do is we're going to fold it and I think I'll change my camera angle because we're going to fold it along that line to press so here the wrong side of the fabric is up we're going to fold and just takes a little bit of care let me just zoom in so you can see a little better what I'm doing we're folding right on that stitching line and the thread is actually what's going to help us fold so you can just carefully [Music] carefully fold let me just show you a little bit so you can see here that is where we're headed so I will go off camera and press the rest of this and I will bring it back okay here we are so again this is the front so what we want to do before this I like to do this here at the pressing table rather than at the machine we're going to turn it so that the right side is up before we finish the next step so back to the sewing machine so as you can see we're back at the machine so let me just give you another look at this because what we're going to be doing is overcasting this Edge so the Stitch width is a zigzag it's 1.2 mm the length is 1.2 mm so it's a little wider and a little longer than the initial Stitch so I like to start by putting the needle into the left of the cord so what you're going to do really is and you're going to see this the cord is going to fall off the folded Edge to the right and this is where having a needle stop down on your machine is very helpful so now I'm going to go off camera and finish and bring back the results almost done okay so let me draw out and show you what we have sewn here that's what we've sewn now our next step is back at the pressing table so here we are there we go before we trim you want to press it one more time just give it a little bit of a tug so that everything flattens out nicely so that's what it's going to look like so now this is where we trim now this is one of those times you want really good scissors so this is I use my tailor points here and so the object here is you just want to get as close to those stitches as you can without nicking them and this is ticklish work work so don't be in a hurry when you try to do this cuz you can end up cutting this off which would be annoying and frustrating just make another little cut here then I'm going to show you what it's going to look like so there that's what it's going to look like here's the front here's the back now let me go off camera and trim the rest and I will bring back the results almost finished that's we're done with that so here this is the front this is the back now give it a little press it's always pressure work so here you have this tiny tiny very flexible hem for any kind of sheer fabrics and now you see how it compares to the original

Channel: kennethdking

Views: 269,902

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Id: HRZcX3G3op8

Length: 13min 30sec (810 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 22 2024