Ferrari 355 Timing Cam Belt Service Step By Step Guide PT2 - DIY Major For Less than 1hr Labour Cost

hey guys everyone welcome back to the channel you join me in part two of our cam timing belt service on the three five five now part one was really all about getting that car prepped ready and in a position to change the belts and that is the bit that is the hard part the bit that takes up most of the time this bit is relatively easy so we've got one more small little thing to do before we're ready to change those belts that's the exciting part grab yourself a cup of this kick back and enjoy the service cheers one thing guys i know this kind of videos not everyone's cup of tea i film them to assist ferrari owners helping them to understand their cars a little bit better so hopefully that's beneficial to a few of you if it is give it a good thumbs up smash that subscribe button hit that bell button and obviously share the knowledge and if you guys want to see more videos like this if you want to help support the channel by all means get yourself a cool funky t-shirt maybe a hoodie or even a very very stylish cap cheers guys we're now ready and in a position to start changing the belts and all the components on the car the car is at tdc we've got all our alignment marks and uh everything is in place everything is removed engine is high enough we can get to that 36 mil bolt in the crankshaft pulley but that is our next dilemma as you saw when we turned over the engine to get tdc it's very easy to rotate now that bolt is torqued up to 196 newton meters to give you an idea how tight that is most big torque wrenches like this go up to around 200 newton meters this one here is 210 so we are right at the top of the limit that is how tight that bolt needs to be now there are a couple of ways we can do this uh we can use or we can try and use an impact wrench like this very expensive one here this one's quite nice it goes up to 300 and almost 400 newton meters this one and it's lovely and compact so we have a very small space there don't forget we have a another issue on this with the tanks we only have a little space like this to get into so this is great uh we can try this or we if we had the beauty of dropping the engine on this we could try a bigger impact wrench like this one [Music] as you can hear that's got a lot more baffy power so our dilemma here is how do we lock the engine and stop it from rotating in order to be able to one undo the bolt currently which is around about 196 newton meters and then finally when we've done all the belt change do that bolt back up to that torque spec now on the 360 there is this lovely little tool that i showed you in the video made by hill engineering again not cheap um but this bolts in underneath there's a little access panel on the um gearbox you take that down you bolt this in this locks the flywheel in place and it stops everything rotating but this doesn't work on three five five there is no tool that i can find that will work on a three five five in this manner so how do we lock the engine now this doesn't matter if you've got the engine out or the engine in like we are doing now you have the same problem how do you stop that engine rotating there are a couple of ways of doing this there is a very neanderthal way of literally sticking a screwdriver in a gap i will show you and just holding it there while you or someone else undoes the engine but that for me is a little bit risky so i am going to make it all and i'm going to use this kind of concept and we are going to try and see if we can figure out a way a safe way to avoid sticking that into my gearbox or my clutch now if we come to the back of the 355 what we have here is this access panel on this clutch housing so i've just started to remove it if i uh just unscrew that and take it away you can see in there our flywheel and all our clutch now it's very similar to the 360 but as i said on the 360 they make this tall which this part here sits in the recess on the flywheel now on the 355 is a different design and there is no recess that you can put this into so we are going to do something slightly different now what people generally do with this is they take a nice big screwdriver and they see that slot in the side there they will just wedge that right in there until it won't turn and then someone goes to the other end over there and undoes that 36 mil bolt now that for me is a little bit sketchy so we are going to try and do something slightly different i am going to try and use the teeth on the flywheel here to create a tool to lock this in place let's see how we get on so what we have is this flywheel locking tool and i'm gonna improvise and make something using that so that was about 10 pound maybe about 15 i can't remember i bought it a while ago um this fits nicely into the flywheel that is uh the models that this one covers i'll show you under the car if we take this it fits very nicely and perfectly into those flywheel grooves okay so now i'm going to take these two holes we're going to make a bracket we're going to fix this to a bracket and that should hopefully lock it all in place let's try it out the idea of making a tool like this is we use whatever we can find and we improvise so this is a bit of metal where you had from the 308 project in the back there when we're doing some welding so i'm going to cut that down uh we're going to cut it down to this side and then we'll just see if this will work [Music] and this is what we have created i had to re-drill the holes because uh stupidly i measured them up wrong so some in the center there we've got our bit bolted in let's bolt it through the middle let's see if it works okay as you can see those teeth are firmly wedged in to the flywheel i'm just going to tighten this up there we go on this side all right let's see if it works i've just checked and this 360 flywheel lock tool that we used was 165 pounds now mine like i said cost a few pounds to make and it is now a rata rossa painting i'm kidding guys before we carry on with the 355 i want to introduce you to fixd it's car care made simple it's like a healthcare monitor for your car and it's really handy for helping you to diagnose any problems let's check it out i simply plug this hardware part the sensor into the car's obd2 port now all gas cars after 1996 and diesel's after 2008 should have a port if you want to check your compatibility go to the fixed website i simply switch on the ignition go to my smartphone and open up the app which is downloadable free from the play or the app store click on tap to scan that's communicating i then click on my truck i've got four of my cars pre-programmed in that's now communicating with sensor looking at all of the systems around the car and it's brought up two issues so we have a traffic light system we've got minor impact and we've got an o2 sensor and also a driver's airbag module open if you look at my dash you will see we have a flashing airbag we click that to have a look simple description driver's airbag modules open unknown severity and so we can have a look and start to diagnose those problems the other really cool thing with fixed is as you can see from my drop down it's compatible with the 355 and the really cool thing about this is it's brought up no errors on the car at 59 this is the best value little bit of kit that you can add to your toolbox but the incredible part is click on my link in the description below the video and you're going to get 67 off one of these making that just 19.99 that's like 15 pounds that was so good i honestly emailed fix and said are you sure that's the right price fortunately for you guys it is everything i've shown you for just 19.99 i know what my nephew is getting for christmas and my dad and my uncle okay the next bit you get to watch is me trying to undo this now we have a variety of tools like i say i'm going to use my impact i've got the breaker bar and i will show you why i can't use my big uh impact wrench we've got the my little tool on the back there we're going to see if that works so uh let's hook up i've got the cameras lined up ready let's see if this works first of all let me show you why we can't use this great big big dump one unfortunately there's just not enough room i could just about maybe get on there if i move the pipes but it's still at an angle there so it's just a no-go i have tried it so we're going to first try this i'm going to put its highest setting and we're on the right way so let's just see how we get on with this ready and it's just not going at all nothing it's absolutely solid so power tools are not working we are going to need to go old school so all right we're gonna try this torque wrench i've got a bigger socket and the top wrench [Music] there we here that actually is undoing that i think hopefully oh we're stripping the thread right that's undone cool all right so i've got big socket i use for the tester also because i've got this extra space here it's actually easier to do it than 360. let's get this 36 mil bolt out of here i'll show you guys voila 136 mil oh and then that as you can see just slides forward so we're as far as we can go there and we've got enough gap behind that to now get our belts off so all of this works perfectly there you go let's take a look from that angle plenty of room to get the old belts off the new belt's on no problem at all sliding the pulley forward we're right at the edge here hitting the crossbar uh so none of that was any kind of problem i will be honest that was much easier than doing a 360 so far and the other great bit of news is my homemade tool has worked an absolute treat and it cost literally a few pounds to make so with a little bit of thought process it can all be done let's crack on and do the actual belt change and finally we are now in the position to start changing over those timing belts the cam belt service on this car so what i would like to say at this point is typically when you book your car in for a cam belt service timing build service what you are normally paying for especially if it's a fixed rate service is the two timing belts and also the two tensioner bearings to be changed over if you want other things on top of that for example the hydraulic tensioners one either side the auxiliary belts anything else you normally pay extra for those kind of things i'm saying typical here this is not the case with all independence not all uh specialists ferrari dealers but that is what your typical kind of when you see a low cost that is normally what you're getting out of it so here's the cool thing about this video the price of these two belts and these two tensioners which is your typical belt service from my guys super performance i'll put all the links in the description below the video for this is 179 pounds 75 p that is your belt bundle um now the typical price for one hour's labor and a ferrari dealer here in the uk as of last year was 180 pounds per hour so for the price of one hour's labor i am teaching you how to do a full can belt service on this car and you're getting all of that free of charge all you got to do is give it a thumbs up and a subscribe there you go guys right let's crack on let's get under the car um i am going to be changing on this one the uh tensioner bearings the belts the hydraulic tensioners because i am not sure exactly when these would change last on this particular car i didn't do them on the 360 service uh last time because they were done on the previous service to that which was i think three years prior um but yeah as a precaution on this one we're changing those and obviously we're doing the uh three auxiliary belts as well so let's get under the car and start getting these changed so we have successfully managed to remove our 36 mil bolt without causing any kind of damage or any stress on the engine now we are ready to start removing all of the cam belts and all of the other little bits that we are going to change today but before we can do that we are going to change first of all or remove sorry the um the ac belt here that attaches to uh the uh crank pulley um because that is in the way of removing the um the cam belt over here on this side so we just push that pulley back into place there and then i will talk you through doing that and then we're going on to cam belts so i'm going to hit these these are both 17 mil bolts i'm going to hit these from both sides one here and it looks like the other one from the top there we go just need to loosen that off and then we'll go up the top and get the other side right so i figured it's easier to come in from the top on these two so so they're 17 mil i've just got a uh ratcheting ring spanner on this one um see if we can get that one on there there we they're go tight i'm just gonna also just loosen up this one and this one this one and this one they're 17 mil and then as you can see i've got a 13 mil on the adjuster at the end there let's just uh get one here loosen that other one then i'm just using the uh little kind of tension adjuster here this is a 13 mil [Music] and then i should be able to just push that forward just slightly and slide off the belt there we go there we go off there we just need to get it off that pulley just slide back there there we go on that there's one ac belt right before we start i'm going to give you another education lesson for you guys who are not familiar with this engine i'll give you a little brief overview of what we have here so pay attention at the back of the class right let's start over here so we have our intake cam over here for cylinders one to four we then have our exhaust cam here for cylinders one to four the same again on the right side over here we have the intake cam for cylinders five to eight exhaust cam four cylinders five to eight we then have our two hydraulic tensioners one on this side one on this side we then have our tensioner bearings one here and one over here obviously the two cam belts the timing belts one two and then down the bottom here we have our drive pulley for cylinders one to four and then our drive pulley over here for cylinders five to eight there we go and then we have our crankshaft pulley which is the one that we have moved okay so first of all we need to do a couple of things we need to lock the intake and exhaust cams together here in the middle same on the opposite bank over here you can see i've done it here and i'm going to show you on this one so we take our mole grips or vice grips i think you call them on the other side of the pond now not too much pressure just a little just enough there so we're not really clamping that super super tight just nipping it up so we've got both sides now clamped up now this is the official way of doing it as per the ferrari workshop manual so it looks a little bit sketchy but yes i honestly tell you that is how it is done officially so that is uh locking the cams okay the next thing we need to do is we take one of these and you can see i've got a keyring full of different sizes there and this was literally uh two or three pounds i think it was i'll put a link in the description below where you can get one of these um but you don't have to use one of these in the 360 video i showed it with just a thin allen key but what we're going to do now is our hydraulic tensioners here as you can see right there there is a tiny little hole okay and the way these work is this plate here it's got kind of a little piston in here and it pushes out pushes against a little plate holding the hydraulic uh the tensioner bearing sorry in place and this pushes against the belt which creates the tension now as you can see with this one we've got quite a big gap now if i look at the opposite side over here the gap is much smaller and i'll show you something else so this is the pin this is really only if you are going to reuse these tensioners now on this car i'm going to be replacing these so this is really for you guys who want to reuse yours on the 360 i've reused them typically me i will change them every other cam belt service but it's completely up to you guys obviously these play a big part in tensioning these belts if this fails uh you'll have no tension on the on the system here and your belt will go loose potentially slipping a few cogs and if that is the case uh you're gonna have one heck of a bill to repair uh okay so what we're gonna do here is i'll show you if you're gonna reuse yours you'll push that through there now there is a hole there but there's also a hole in that little metal shaft there which is kind of the piston inside it and that should go all the way through if you watch that mine has obviously been pushed out quite far and it won't go through now so you would need to compress that which i'll show you how you can do later on but on this side if we have a look on here same again the little hole there we'll push this through and as you can see that goes right in there so that is now locked from moving out now if i remove this one what's going to happen if i haven't got the pin through it is this kind of piston is going to push right out and that is under a lot a lot of force so in order to be able to push that back in you need a great big vise clamp um to be able to just squeeze that in slowly then you can get your pin in so we'll try and get that back in obviously i'm not going to be reusing these these are going in the bin um we're going to replace these with new ones and let me get you a new one all right so this is a new one fresh out the packet now as you can see when you buy them they come with the pin through it there you go there's a nice little angle so you can see it from the top there pin through that and it just stops that all pushing out so uh that's really the easy solution buy new ones okay i stupidly forgot to press record then uh hopefully we've caught it on another camera okay let's do a little demonstration for you using my old tensioner so i'm going to take undo the tensioner bearing here very very tight this one there we go okay now i'm gonna take that off there you go and she saw that has popped right out anyway uh what i've done is i've undone the 17 mil bolt there holding the tensioner bearing in place and the idea was to show you that unless you've got the pin through the hydraulic tensioner here this is what happens it will pop right out now you can see the hole there in the shaft which is uh here we go let's look at this one so that is the shaft as it comes as new and that thing will just pop out as it has done here okay now that hits this little part here of the uh the bearing and that is what puts this all under tension so it pivots and it pulls this so let's take this 17 mil bolt out put that to one side down there take our bearing off and there you go so this is how our hydraulic kind of as you can see this all pivots and we'll show you again when we take the uh hydraulic tensioner off so what we're going to do now is uh we're going to remove the belt from here and i'm just going to do that very slowly as you can see there and up there and this is the reason we need to move that so i need to be able to get that out from behind there we've successfully done that i'm just going to slip that over the top there and that is our cam belt off this side of the engine now i am going to change this which is 2 13 mil so this is our there we go as you can see that's what pivots we've got our bearing on here and that's what applies the tension to the belt now 230 mil i'm going to change over that hydraulic tensioner okay one and two two of those one off so we're going to swap back with a new one okay new one going on [Music] now i need to get my torque wrench and talk these up to spec okay new ones in so as you can see the little piston comes out hits this bit here this moves we've got the bearing on here and that is how we tension next i'm going to slip a new belt on here and our new tensioner bearing so here's the old tensioner that come off the car now i don't know if you can see this a little inspection of it and i think that date on there is the first of july 1998 so this is a 1999 car which means that these are probably the original tensioners which is crazy if that's the case wow you know what i actually think that is the manufacture date on there if i look at this brand new one look at that first of first 20. so i think we had the original tensioners on this car which is amazing uh what does that make them 22 years old crazy crazy crazy but it goes to the show they do last and that's the old bearing that's come off the car and uh a little player with that it all feels okay to be honest now this is a new one and these can only really go on on one way that's the back side now if you look at the front side we've got those two little bits there and that's for our tensioning tool to go in so i'm going to show you that on the car all right so we have our belt roughly in place it's down around the lower drive pulley which is the major one this is the one with the lip around it because it's around there and then we've got to get it around the others and on the inside of this tensioner bearing now one little trick i'd like to use is some just little clamps like this you can use bulldog clips something like that and then what we do is just like clamp part onto there make sure it's all tight down there and just feed our way around it now i need two sets of hands to do this so uh i will show you after we've done it how we've got that in place as you can see we've got a lot of slack here now that expands between the drive pulley down here and our cams that really needs to be absolutely taught there's no chance of any slip on that one and then this bit here is where we really take up the tensions so that's the bit you focus on first and so what we really need to do is kind of put one of these on here like so cool right it's one this is the bet just take your time with this leave plenty of time allow yourself to just do this right and get it nice there that's good so nice and tight there between the two exhaust and intake cams so now i'm gonna get one up the top there again get that one there as much as possible there we go okay so we're good here we get up the top it's all sitting nicely and now what i'm gonna do i'm gonna get my bearing i'm gonna try now this bearing all pivots like this so there is a point on it that is most loose is what we are going to do right now what we do now is we take our little tension tool which is this and again i'll put a link where you can get one of these now this slots into the two i'll show you with this bit here take the taller that slots into the two little holes on our bearing there what you do is you rotate it like this and that applies the tension and then you'll bolt this 17 mil bolt up and tighten it up and that is getting your kind of reference your check your bearing tension so i'll show you here so that's what's in there now you could use a couple of uh people use needle nose pliers for this this tool is not expensive and then we would get i mean what this does you see you got the little rounded gap there so it allows you to get a socket on here as well okay so this is the tricky bit holding that at the same time again this is a hill engineering tool and then you can see you know our belt here here it's all nice and tight and again the other vital one is just at the top between the two cameras up there and especially down there so we put our tool in here and i kind of pull it watch the bearing and watch the belt you see that's applying the tension on the belt and making it nice and tight and then we nip that up all right and then we're going to check our tension and don't pull this pin out at all until i tell you i'll try and do this so ideally what we're going to be doing here is we're going to be applying tension we're going to be tightening up the 17 mil bolt and what we want to do is when that's tight this pin should just slide in and out nicely now at the moment it's really tight now if i move this tension you can see watch this i'm trying to get this without my so i can move that in and out like that for you there you go so that slides in and out really nicely now be careful here i don't want you to take this pin out just make sure you can move it like that and that is where we're going to tighten this up too i'm going to hold it there quite difficult this you've got to maybe try and do it a few times as you can see we're okay there but obviously as you are applying tension this motion of tightening the 17 mil bolt is also going to be moving the tensioner now we also need to torque this bolt up as well to the right spec okay so this bearing needs to be torqued up to 49 newton meters so i've got my torque wrench here set up to 49 and then we are gradually okay good all right so that is all torqued up to 49 newton meters our pin slides in and out freely so now we're going to leave that pin in and we are going to rotate the engine two revolutions at least i'm gonna do about four i'm gonna then let everything settle and all our belts settle down for a little bit and then we're gonna check the pin and then finally what we need to do is read the gap in that collar there that needs to be about 2.5 millimeters i'll zoom in on there so you need some feeling edges to be able to do that um and that's basically the process for our timing belt so i'm going to have to put the bolt back in here and take my special homemade tool off there so before i do that i'm going to do the other side so we can do it all at the same time you can see over there so we are going to repeat the process over here on the opposite bank exactly the same the only difference is we do have these two pipes in the way and again you can say well you don't have that on the other cars but you have exactly the same on a 360 you have the uh water pipes coming down here so you've always got something in the way of this bank so slightly more tricky i'm not going to bore you going through exactly the same again but it's uh the same process as we did on this side i've rotated the engine on this one uh to be honest probably about eight times two is the spec in the service manual and as you can see i've let it settle for a little while as well and these pins still slide in and out very nicely just absolutely perfect on both sides and there you go so uh we are ready for the next step we're gonna pull the pins one let's put that somewhere safe and two so like a grenade this doesn't go off uh then i'm gonna rotate the engine a couple of times and finally we're just gonna let this settle and we're gonna take our gap reading over here and make sure that's about 2.5 millimeters same on that side so we're going to be measuring this gap over here sometimes i don't trust my feeler gauges and the little gaps in between so we're just verifying there 2.5 millimeters okay so the tensioner is all adjusted up let's check our gap 2.5 just perfect lovely all right that's done i'm going to rotate it a couple more times just uh and recheck that just to be sure okay i've rotated it let it settle a bit perfect let's check my pin as well okay nice good so our belts are all set up correctly now next job is reinstall my very expensive flywheel tool and torque up the 36 mil bolt to 196 newton meters with our cam belts finished everything tensioned and talked up correctly we're on to our three final belts so we have our power steering alternator and ac just took the ac off so i'm going to start with this one we're going to replace it i'm not going to go through the replacement uh it's exactly the same as the reverse process of removing it and then i'll just go through how to tension this one up next we have another lesson for you on the 355. so i've just replaced the ac belt down on the car we're going to use the old one here and i'm going to show you how we tension up that correctly so if you look at the workshop manual for the 355 it references one of these this is a device made by a company called steger it is the official one that ferrari use and uh these are extremely rare and extremely expensive fortunately for you i am going to help you out so this is the little device here we've got a couple of paddles and we've got this bit here in the middle now when i move the bit in the middle if you watch the gauge and that is how we measure our tension so we stick the belt in through the middle here and let me just reset that and i'll show you so if i set this up with the belt on the paddle so we put the pedals here flat put our belt in between put that on there like so okay so we're like that now if i pull the belt tension pull that tight you will see the gauge moves okay and that is basically the concept that we are going to be doing underneath the car so what i'm going to do is i'm going to put this on the ac belt in the flat part i'll show you and then i'm going to tighten the 13 mil adjuster until i get this within spec now i am not expecting you guys to be able to get one of these this took me months to get hold off in planning for this video for you guys you can thank me later with a thumbs up or a nice comment below so what i'm gonna do so this is used on three five fives four five six i believe 550s this kind of era of ferraris use this on most of the belts but what i'm going to do is i'm going to convert this for you so if you've watched my 360 video the way the 360 gets its tension on the belts is by a frequency reader again there's another one that is very expensive it's kind of digital and again extremely rare but on the 360 video what i did was i used a free app made by a company called gates now gates are massive in the belt business they are huge huge huge and they make a free app that you can download free of charge and i use that on the 360 video to get our frequency reading on the belt so you can go and refer to the 360 video i went in depth uh how it all works on there i'm not going to go too far in depth today what i'm going to do though is i'm going to get a reading on this set the belts up correctly and then what i'm going to do is i'm going to convert that reading into a frequency reading so you guys can just download a free app and you can get your frequency and it should be within the same tolerance all right i'm going to attempt to give you a little demonstration on the car so here is our ac belt i'm going to put the flat paddles of this on the flat side and uh there we see we're going to pull this pins which get on there so they're quite difficult one this because there's not much space in between so we can just about literally get our tool on there and then we're gonna do so i've pulled this pin here so this bit is free so i'm gonna push this bar down and that is our current tension on there and then what i'm going to do is uh come underneath here and on this bolt here that is gonna tension it up or loosen it off slightly now the power steering i'm not gonna go through all of this one on camera as well we have that little screw there is our adjustment screw and then up the top there is a bolt up here that we just need to loosen off that is for our bracket here and then we loosen off this one here change the belt over and it's exactly the same again now i'm going to give you a frequency on this now unfortunately guys at this point i made a slight technical booboo in the filming sense so we were filming on this i was using the phone to get the frequency readings from the gates app using the phone's microphone and i stupidly had the um gopro set to time-lapse so you got a fast forward version of it i'm going to put the uh slow it down i'll put the frequency readings here i'll try and talk over it a little bit but one thing to make crystal clear is the ah the cam belt that is all done perfectly already uh that we have done and set up as per the workshop manual so in the workshop manual just to make it 100 clear we do not use the tension tool in that nor do we use a frequency to set up these on the 355 they are set up using the 2.5 mil gap and being able to slide that pin in and out so these are all done we are just talking about the auxiliary belts here so a couple of things uh i'm going to put in a link to the 360 video i'm going to strum the belt in the same places to get the readings that we did on the 360 because the uh engine setup is virtually identical and those are the readings i'm going to be posting here [Music] so all we got to do is put the car back together now just started with the cover here everything is reverse of removal on this one now that both the covers are in place i am ready to install a fresh new alternator belt okay so the belt's on nice and loose it just all slips over as you can see right above this is our tensioner here so let's tension that up and just a note to remember on this one we are going the opposite way now to tighten our belt so what would normally feel like loosening it we're actually tightening up and put some tension on it as you can see the belt started to get a bit more torqued that's [Music] good what i've decided to do with the frequency readings on our three auxiliary belts is i'm going to publish those in the description below the video i'm not going to put them on screen what i'd like you guys to do is if you do a 355 service whether it's engine in or engine out the car if you can also get frequency readings on your three belts put them in the comments below the video and then over time we should be able to get a very precise kind of mean average of what those uh frequencies should be on the 355 making it easy for everybody to do this or this part of it free of charge okay so that's all our belts now in place so we are ready to crack on with putting just all the uh panel in here and uh just hooking everything back up now [Music] let's get these front engine mounts in place that's our heat shield panel back in place i've just got one more annoying nut which is the one up there the 10 mil to get to i can't really get to it from there i've got to get to it from the top side finally the tank is ready to go back in the car could be a little bit interesting with just me to do this but so far we've done everything with uh just these hands no help at all so uh let's see if we can get this one in pretty good so far i'm just going from one side to the other i'm just gradually doing it i've got it on this mat as well so it doesn't damage anything and just uh yeah just taking it nice and slowly but um no bother at all so far this is just a case of taking my time i'm pumping the jack two or three pumps at a time just uh lifting it very slowly and each time just checking around making sure there's no obstructions nothing's getting caught and now which is not really too much to get caught really on this end all right let's start installing these now this one behind the oil tank is the tricky one but it's actually pretty easy watch put my hand in kind of back to front here let's turn that round doing this by feel to be honest i don't even need the torch kind of just go down here once it's on and that's the tricky bit just getting the knot on there you can see it down there and uh yeah it's not bad sorry you can't see it there you can see it there and then once it's on once you've got one thread on there you just use this uh ratchet spanner and uh yeah there's enough room down there to get your hand down there [Music] oh well guys moment of truth let's take it out for a little drive no handbrake so uh some wheel chucks just in case we're having a nice little drive we're gonna take it really slowly for a little bit warm it up i'm gonna stop i'm gonna check in the engine make sure we've got no uh leaks where i've taken off cam covers and things like that so uh this is just the checking part of it but other than the checking side of things sounded sweet back there there is something rather splendid about the sound of the 355 engine it doesn't matter if it's going slowly or on full chat it's got a lovely little note back there anyway it sounded good i am happy a couple of little stops a little check here and there just to make sure as it warms up we're okay and then we're all finished well guys there you go that is the service series on the 355 all finished this car is running beautifully and it's good for another three years on those new belts and tensioner bearings and some people even push that to five but what do you think was it as difficult as you thought it was gonna be would you give it a go yourself let me know your thoughts in the comments below don't forget always check the description below the video where i'm going to post things such as part numbers availability of parts tools you need things like where you can get the service manual anything such as that any good data will be listed below the video anyway guys i hope you enjoyed it if you did smash that like button hit the subscribe button click the bell notification and obviously you can follow me over on instagram where i post what goes on around here on a daily basis i've got one more video to do on this car and that is going to be a full top to toe detail um we're going to be doing a few things giving it a good clean making it look like new and i'm going to be trying out some ceramic coating on this one just to see how good that stuff is then this car is going for sale and um we will be filling this garish spot with one other project anyway guys i'm taking this baby out for another spin i'll see you very shortly in the next video ciao for now [Music] mmm you

Channel: Ratarossa

Views: 54,669

Keywords: fixd, emo, emanualonline, ratarossa, part 2, pt2, f355, 355, ferrari, ferrari 355, manual, f1, spider, berlinetta, gts, gtb, major, belts, timing belts, cam belts, cost, save, money, cheap, diy, garage, specialist, dealer

Id: nxC0ZQQn24Q

Length: 50min 44sec (3044 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 31 2020