Fabricating 4 Links

I can't give the name of the project away just yet if I give it away right now or I really describe exactly what it is that I'm doing no I'm just not doing it it's probably gonna be one of those things like might be the easiest thing in the entire world it might be the most complicated but it's definitely never been done everybody's gonna really follow along the actual what we're doing here so this is all about the fabrication of it right the strange concepts the the weird stuff that I can do and what we can get away with and it's gonna be really fun definitely gonna be fun [Music] all right four legs [Applause] really good I'll just slide out whole goal for the day is to get the four links all set up on the rear so I already have the brackets and everything I put those on earlier they're already set ready to go so we got to get the axle inside of there completely centered up get the four links in place so that way we still haven't we have our motion and we have everything else like that we got to get the axle prepped by cutting all of the perches off of it all the existing metal and then brighten it so that way we have a nice clean surface to weld on so this should be relatively easy to get done not too time-consuming but that's pretty much all there is to it anywhere to go this is probably just hit with a stone wheel first use both hands I have known Burks for 10 years or so I met him originally and we served together in the US Navy and he ended up coming to my base one day with his brand-new diesel big rig little boy truck with a I don't know what the hell it was he just you know rolls up and was like hey can you build an intake and I'm like yeah absolutely I sure can but I couldn't he wasn't really happy about that but at the same time he still stuck around and we just kind of hit it off in there getting the bars cut we're using inch and a quarter one twenty well do em tube it's pretty standard for most for links and so you know pretty common off-the-shelf about the normal size of two a normally fine now getting those cuts home link I use the CAD design that I had to tell me how long each tube need to be from point A to point B then we subtract that out you know the sections of the actual far end or at least the bushing in and the heim joint had to come off of it it was roughly three and a half inches would need to come off the total length of it we need a groove for the well to sit in there to hold everything together and then we have the plug well sometimes call the rosette and that will help keep everything in there as well as what's on here because a lot of people worried that this is going to split and if you don't have a good while that will but with that rosette while that's kind of like an extra safety in there so we've seen enough on there just to put a little plug on there and go so the total length that I have to have here from where I measured on the drawing is 29 and half inches from the i2 or the center of the bolt up to the bushing housing so these are cut long intentionally so you always have enough material to remove and you can always reimagine what you have all of the inset so let's just assume for a moment that I screwed up the location on one of these holes right here this has to you know you have to cut that off and then redo the end of it so just in case that happens always cut your links a little bit longer then measure out where they need to be and how long they need to be after that from Center here to about twenty nine and a half inches here this would be the location of the notch that we need to put in to make that sucker fit on there easy day long as we line it up right through that mark perfectly trained every time and this will be ready to go on after we drop [Music] [Applause] so we got a pretty large bevel or land on there so when we actually go to weld it we can have plenty of Hiller metal in there and this bevel on there actually creases the service area of the tubes up strengthening the joint itself so hopefully I should be only gets it all in one pass I don't have enough space on there to do few pots and stuff all gonna have to be really heavy on the first [Music] every time I ride like hot happy Sparky whatever the case is I read anything like that here comes a little oh do two shows up right now I say SAP and I'm like I need a lightning bolt it's not there it's more time by freaking lightning bolt what category would that be [Music] still to come [Music] the good ballgame when you give your if anybody's ever gonna crawl underneath one of my staff fees and look at the wealth because they saw it on YouTube it better look like it did I like it was on you Pacific the best amount of pressure so there wasn't enough room to do two passes on this so we're gonna do just a single pass on this this whole thing welded it really heavy I turn it up to 150 amps you just really pounded that filler in there nice and nice and neatly even like but we don't have enough space for a second pass on that so that's where we just you know trust in our welding skills and hope to hell that everything sticks the way it supposed to so I'm using two different types that's one of them so I'm using two different sizes of filler on this one the o45 is the smaller diameter and normally you wouldn't do that for let's say a hundred and 50 amps are doing some of this heavier wall stuff but the reason that I use the smaller wire is that I can actually watch it flow down into the root and you can always add more wire from a smaller diameter than you can from a larger one so you can't add less with a larger diameter and since you want to see it a washdown in there and you want to fill it up use the smaller diameter wire to push in there and you can really stack it up as long as you got your amperage under control when I switch to the plug or the rosette weld I use the larger diameter which is the 1/16 now there's not a ton of wall on these bums here on these these these rod ends so we have to not saturate it in heat otherwise the threads could get damaged so the thicker wall fills it up quicker and also quenches as we weld so that doesn't destroy all the threads and everything on the inside so it gets in and out a lot faster and it makes sure that we get this thing filled up and not distorted or warp it or mess it up so everything all of my major joints with all the bevels is all over four or five because we can really push it in there but the smaller stuff like the plug weld will use the 1/16 so we could fill it up fast and not overheat it [Music] 50 minutes just shy of an hour to weld all of this house not bad laughter they cool off we're about ready to install hood he's done grinding all that stuff out which we could be here for another couple hours I think I should probably go help them [Applause] yeah just like that just to lean on and call it good yeah when you drive down the road like this should be a rubber mallet to look why can't it ever be easy [Applause] find me something that'll smash this we're pretty low budget here we want to get these as close as possible otherwise it's it's gonna knock off a lot of other angles but you know a fraction of an inch here and there you know it can all be corrected in alignment later on down the road but for right now they got to be pretty much as close to dead-on as possible a little bit better than just using your eyeballs you know get couple of reference points and you should be okay or at least really close just for reference about one inch being off by about an inch is about 16 degrees and that's enough to really throw you sideways or drive a diagonal down the road you might as well be got a car with wheels that point the opposite direction just drag on sideways hmm these little guys right here called Highness alignment spacers what they do is they normally your your heim joint won't allow you to flex too much you only get a certain amount of degrees now we don't anticipate running this much flex in our system we don't need it at all but it also gives you a little bit more space to work with so instead of it going to about right here we can go all the way up here we can go here these also restrict the size of the hole or they reduce the size of the hole so this is a 5/8 time with a half-inch hole so you got to take that in consideration but I'd like the extra width on here and the ability to have some flex that's kind of what we need because the other side is just solid polyurethane not too flexible just get the back in and then we'll worry about getting the actual setup and all that crud yeah Cheetos are here that are you can strap to keep the accent pushed forward keeping the links nice and tight and then we still have enough to where we can shimmy it around make sure that our starve Center left to right measurement is good and like I mentioned before if it's you know if the axe is too far for or rearward right now we can change all that stuff later we just as long as we get everything set exactly where it needs to be now then we can start tweaking everything else around later no big deal this is just getting in there at the moment okay pinion angle probably your number one most important measurement that you need to be very very serious about to so that is the angle of this face your opinion or your input so it needs to match the exact same angle as the transmission tail shaft or your output shaft of the transmission now that's when it's bolted in so with the engine transmission all that is bolted in as it sits right now that's the measurement that we did to make sure that it actually matches in there parallel so even if on a different plane like this there's still at the exact same angle so whatever direction that is they stay that way so there's a lot of people say you know you're gonna have X amount of degrees on your on your pinion all the rest that stuff this is a completely parallel equal length for link and it has the exact same travel as it did from stock so that means it must match because that number is not going to change at all small angle fighter will put on the tail shaft there that measures eighty-seven point four throw it over here this needs to go to eighty-seven point four right now it is eighty nine point five seven one blows Shamu I've got the earth for three tenths oh boy seven to except for don't move once we have those set then we just weld everything in after confirming all of our measurements again so we're good what's that angle degrees okay welding for links is really not that difficult but a lot of people will tend to kind of screw up or rush the job and not check their dimensions and not run their geometry correctly because if you do then you're kind of just gonna turn your whole vehicle into like a floppy Finch driving down the road so it's really important that you people actually pay attention to your math and do your geometry correctly and do not rush Welding is the fastest part the longest thing is getting it all set right you know I think the best part though is once you actually finish it off and then I got to pick up the truck frame and just watch that axle start moving it's like that's your gratification it's like I just did that it works so with the four links on the chassis we have one big problem with it and that's that it moves side to side which means we have to build something that holds it still it was a workout thing and that's gonna be the watch link you you

Channel: The Fabrication Series

Views: 180,773

Keywords: Multi pass welds, custom 4 links, 4 link fabrication, 4 links, build a 4 link, make 4 links, fabricate 4 links, trailing arm fab, lower control arm fab, The Fabricator, Chassis Fab, chassis build, suspension fabrication

Id: Knx1JlP2BAY

Length: 16min 24sec (984 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 19 2020