EEVblog #1058 - Quick 861DW Hot Air Rework Station Review

hi today we're going to take a look at the quick 861 DW hot air a reflow slash repair station a hot air device designed for rework and repair of PCBs or basically modern surface mount soldering if you've got solder pastes and stuff like that as well and thank you very much Lewis rossmann from the Rossman repair group and fellow youtuber I'll link him in at the end of this video he's actually done a review of this one as well and he actually I provided this formula what's going to a buy one myself because I needed a better repair station and he recommended this but he sent me one he had already sent me one into the mailbag so thank you very much Luis and he actually recommends off the bat he actually recommends this one as over and above the hakko that he used to use and the Weller ones as well and he recommends this one as basically at almost any price point so given that he's a repair professional he does repairs every day I and he's a no-bullshit guy he knows what he's talking about here but he wanted me to take a look at it as well cuz it apparently up it made the lights in his shop flicker that's we might actually take it apart there might be some you know RFI interference line conducted mode interfere and so on like go to town of researching that but we'll do a teardown which Lewis hasn't done to check out the build quality but as far as the performance goes he swears by this now now I have looked at a repair at a hot-air station before which is the cheapest are a 10 8 5 8 D plus here now the quick by the way is about three hundred US dollars as you see it here the a 1085 ad is like sub $70 delivered so it's you know it's really cheap everyone should have if you're into electronics you should at least have something of this level that just a hot-air gun that allows you to just rework and remove you know basic small surface mount parts and stuff like that and it's okay you know I've been using it for since I did the review it's my main because I don't do repairs of the board's our other items with big you know ground planes and huge components that see that sink all the heat and everything so this has been bill it's been adequate for the task that has struggled in a lot of times it just doesn't have the heat doesn't have the airflow doesn't have the capacity to remove you know large items and stuff like that so struggles and it's been a bit Dicky it's supposed to go into sleep mode when you put it on here there's a magnet or whatever in here but they found that Dicky it doesn't always work it's positional attachments yeah I need something with more capacity so I was going to get one of these for the lab but let's check it out see if it's any good but we're basically talking our chalk and cheese here this is a really like a high-end sort of you know big airflow capacity i unit whereas this is like you know hobbyist grade just for you know very like small boards and simple smaller low thermal mass components and stuff like that now first of all it does actually come with three are different sized nozzles excellent there was also three extra larger sized nozzles and angled like that which could be really organized handy and also for getting like if you've got other components in the way or something like that but I'm not sure if it comes with that they were in a separate bag so Luis may have included those I don't think they actually comes with it but you can obviously buy them so let's actually try and put one of these on obviously I'm not going to do this when it's a hot I really do like the way that goes in it feels like nicely everything's nicely machined and it isn't nice fit and it Clips right in that's that feels really professional that's a Bobby Dazzler then we've got the stand itself which actually feels a bit of weighting that feels really solid it's got some rubber on the bottom so it doesn't slide around on your bench and I really like the design of this how it has this sort of like outer ring thing plastic ring which then just sits in there like that that is really quite nice it's kind of hard to it's hard to sort of miss that you can just go whack it in like that so not only does that sit in there very nicely I like it but it also provides a little removal plate oh that didn't work I've got the tripods in the way there we go Bob's your uncle and that's not gonna fall out you don't really have to worry about that I mean if you pull on it it's going over of course you know you're moving around the bench swinging on your chair and your leg catches it it's going over but maybe I would have preferred something flat perhaps you know because then it's just lower profile on the bench perhaps coming over like that just creates you know it really has quite a substantial size up here it's just easy to get caught on there if you're you know moving around the lab doing stuff but I do like it and the handle actually yeah the quality of the plastic on the handle actually feels quite reasonable then unscrews anyway I like like the rubber hose on here it feels really good I might see if that's our burn proof I might get the iron to that but that you know it feels a strain relief on that feels really quite professional let's try and open this puppy up but that comes off I like how it's cable-tied inside here and not one but two cable ties that's a nice attention to detail they've got some heat-shrink oh and not heat shrink but insulation tubing down in there which looks like it has another plastic so the guide in there or something like that looks like the contacts in there are crimp down in there it all looks very very well designed I'm quite quite impressed by that of course it's going to have more than the heater element there's going to be a sensor in here which detects when it's on the stand it's obviously detecting that there's metal that goes over the top of this part here so it's got to detect that somehow I'm not exactly sure how probably some sort of Hall effect metal type thing anyway everything looks nicely heat shrunk or you know properly crimped down inside there so I deem that to be quite a professional construction no worries whatsoever I think to get depart any further I might have to take out these rivets here so I don't really want to do that so we'll just leave it at that heating element you can see is that the ceramic former down in there for the heating element I don't know I'm not gonna take it all apart but oh is this like a big copper heat pipes around there I don't know kind of looks badass now it's for the station it's so far looks really quite high quality I've got the metal case around the outside I like the user interface real easy temperature just up and down I have to have a look at the sleigh when we pair it up and the air flow up and down that's exactly what you want and looks like three different presets because when you're doing an especially production soldering or production repair when you've got like the same comply CAC Ahman component that you're all that's always failing and you're always repairing I'm sure Lewis can tell you all about this then you would know you know you might have like three presets or whatever and you go okay I'm removing this you know memory chip or whatever BAM press that and it's set up with just the right temperature and airflow you need to take off that particular chip with that particular thermal mass so that's quite good in power on/off and Bob's your uncle on the back very basic we've got our air intake there because it's got our suck the air in from somewhere we do have a grounding point and I do believe it does come with a grounding strap which you can put over to your ESD mat or whatever so that'd be mains earth it's fused and it's of course made in China somewhere it doesn't say it though it's got the dodgy QC pass sticker don't like that anyway this is the 240 volt / 220 volt model and it's a thousand what rated so that's a heck of a lot of BTUs or choose your unit you know we say you're on the eevblog don't turn it on take it apart right let's have a squeeze inside this thing oh whoa there you go I'm we're in like Flynn jeez that's a much smaller than I expected for the motor we've got an inlet port here which just you know sucks the air from around the which is fine just sucks the air from around everything else which helps with the heat dissipation inside she said oh okay no I thought though just they're angled the piece of YZ angle that just looked weird I thought that they were like the board was hanging off with something no but the board's actually yeah angled in there let's take a look down here oh look at that that's interesting we've got our grommet on the back you're very traditional wire type grommet and then there's a a crimped logo around that that's alright but look they've got the sleeve in here so that doesn't you know that's a nice touch so the mains wiring go into the switch at the front it doesn't you know get cut by the sharp burrs or anything on any well not that there are any but just the potential there for that to happen everything's heat shrunk I would have preferred another full heat shrink over there because technically I could get in there and touch maybe there's a little bit of exposed but you know look it's nice and neat and tidy I like it the earth yep down there it looks like they've got some Loctite down on that very nice looks like they might have one of those penetrating washes down there and then we've got our earth strap bonding resistor there that's probably how big is it and I can't see that from here but that's going up to our terminal on the back and we've got ourselves a nice mains filter on there to check that out so that's very nice Wow they've actually really gone to town on that that looks like it's got all the requisite approvals and everything else it's a deal 10 t1 I'll pull up the datasheet for that but basically that answers our question about well the question I had is with Luis and he's flickering lights in his lab when this thing was turned on presumably just the pump you know turning on was that it caused the lights to flicker and I suspected that's was most likely conducted line interference which means that the motor generates interference which then goes back on the line and through the mains cord out the back but a big EMI filter like that um that should do the business that should have a massive common mode choke in it and so I probably rule out a conducted line interference but anyway um it's all very neat and tidy I love it's all professionally heat-shrink and done it's very nice I guess you could say that motor looks a bit wimpy I like how they're very cable tied that around they've they've done everything properly cuz you know it's gonna be a lot of vibration oh that's not a vibration mount - nice nice yep there it is rubber grommets excellent so it doesn't generate too much noise haven't turned on you so don't know how much noise it generates but yeah but it's all very professionally built another earth strapped down there once again they got the lock tight all over the place cable ties everywhere Jesus things somebody had somebody had fun Wow doesn't that motor drive bored look spunky I like it there Bo the dpac mosfet drivers they're very nice I'm not sure what the main controller is there can't read that on the screen but yeah that looks very well designed and manufactured no worries you'll notice that the two being going off of course we've got the air so what we've got there is the there we go that's our heater element so we'll follow the money on that one in a minute and this would be your temperature sensor and also for the temperature regulation of course of the element and also the detection for the stand when you put the probe on the stand it goes into sleep mode and we've got ourselves mains earth there so if I measure that that will no doubt be mains earth connected so that provides that mains earth shielding for the switching element right up the top of course I don't see any common mode chokes it like any sort of chokes or filters on the switch in cable so maybe it is radiated interference that Lois is seen as being picked up by here's our lab lights there's the main front panel board which looks very nice as well we've got a processor I might be able to get down there and have a look at what one that is those playing along at home here's our mains input here of course and that's our switching element outlook very nicely crimped and then into our screw terminals and they're all and they've all got the insulating sleeves on them I really like this this is very much better constructed than I would have expected for the price although you know there's not a huge amount in these things so you know 300 US dollars worth you'd want it to be at least reasonably constructed and it's certainly yeah that and more I think and the capacitors in these are our Jimmy Caan's it looks like they're very use them all over there including the motor drive board and Jimmy Connor are one of Taiwan's biggest and oldest electrolytic capacitor manufacturers I really see Jimmy Caan I caps but you know they're they're reasonable they're going to be decent I think I don't actually know what series it is but man it's certainly not the Shenzhen Mark at 100 there's our triack and it looks like genuine st a bt a 40 series our 40 amp triac no worries that's gonna do the business or the Jesus solder ins a bit how you're doing well actually well the soldering is probably okay if it'll lead free but all the flux residue and stuff that's the only negative I found so far anyway I put a couple in the layouts actually looks quite reasonable and there's our one snubber cap across there and somebody's really gone to town on the thermal compound there but never have too much thermal compound actually you can because it gets to a point where if you have too much it actually decreases well it increases the thermal resistance so it's gotta be just right the micro down in there not sure if you can see that but that's an 18 mega 16a so I could probably be happy I put your own act foam around on if you're really needed to I don't see why but you know it's just a control loop basically and just lay thing unless it had some annoying interface quirk which I don't think it's God has just got up down buttons and temp up down and flow up down to memory so you know I don't know why you want to improve on that Loctite on all the connectors in here so there you have it for the teardown I'm very impressed by that I it's hard to fault that thing at all it's you definitely get your money's worth so definite thumbs up on here I've never done a teardown of a higher end you know heyco or pace or anything like that but you know I they might maybe be a bit better built in terms of like a more solid in terms of you know Shazi this is just yeah well it's not even yet well it's just folded metal at the back and just your plastic cover at the front but like that's pretty much as good as it gets especially for this price point they just know what they're doing there's attention to detail on almost every aspect of this thing so I'm thoroughly impressed thumbs up all right let's pile this baby on have a look beep that's it doesn't read anything presumably because it's on the stand so let's I know there we go we can adjust it what's the minimum 100 yet no worries for doing heat shrink and stuff like that what's the maximum the velocity control is constant it's alright it's not the most tuned thing I've seen and 500 Celsius no worries nothing it's Fahrenheit rubbish maybe you can change it can I see an extra symbol on there not really oh it vanishes ok so that's the current obviously the current thing and I don't know what the one up to 120 okay that's a lot of resolution on yeah air flow rate I'm that's huge resolution so no worries I don't know what that is in like you know liters per minute or whatever or whatever volume thing you want to use but let's give it a go okay first thing we'll do is set it to 100 and we'll get a thermocouple and actually measure that kind of check the rotation on the stand doesn't seem to matter wow that's good yeah so used to the Dickey one on the just not working on the a 10:1 that's they've implemented that very well so it's like as soon as I yet take that out so it's got to be some sort of magnetic up yeah there we go goes down and then boom nice alright oh yeah oh yeah yeah it's getting hot it's warming up tell you what it's pretty silent too um it's hard to get audio on the I yeah it's very maybe you might use that for Dada I don't know what you use one for maybe you wouldn't even use that for heat shrink jeez but even at the maximum air flow rate that is remarkably silent Wow very impressed so just compare both of these on maximum volume so I do have manual mic level so let me take it off so this is the a-10 this is the quick actually come to think of it maybe the quick is a little bit might technically be a bit louder but it's just got a nicer sound to it this one's just like ruffer's guts and just sounds like it's struggling and that's just and that sounds like a hairdryer or something on low volume but this one just sounds like a bit of industrial kit I mean it just it is like a higher frequency sound to it I don't know just instills more confidence okay let's measure the temperature shall we get our k-type thermocouple maximum air flow just stick it up the clacker and oh geez that's not bad tell you what yeah I like it you expect like a tempest like a ten percent tolerance or something would be fine that's all right it's it's settling down a bit I don't know you tell me I don't think so I don't expect these things to be terribly accurate okay how about it half the air flow rate 8% 9% 10% over okay let's have a look at the quick at 300 degrees see if it overshoots I've got it on 60 oh geez it said it got up there pretty quick now the thing about the quick is that it doesn't display the actual temperature whereas the a-10 seems to do that it's getting up there but it's definitely not going to overshoot so you don't have to worry about this thing causing you any problems with temperature overshoot by the looks of it that's good so it's starting to melt starting to melt I think that could be above L K type what does that k-type thermocouple go to no see it seems to actually have a temperature reading there when it's going down but not on the way up so that's that's a bit interesting maybe I have to RTFM yep there it is real temp I'm not sure with that that light indicates like a buzzer or something so the real temp is take it off and there you go well no yeah well it's sayin it's three that is like it's almost yeah a real that's apparently what the sense is reading but that's just too stable for my liking so I'm not sure what the deal is with that but certainly if I stick it back on there it's still showing real temp and it goes down it can't regulate that well and of course my key type thermocouple is probably not doing the best of business in measuring the temperature so just use that as an indicator oops yeah I thought my probe could go to like a 300 but turns out it's only 260 it's rated for so let's try the a 10 on the other hand set to 250 and oh yeah she's going over oh that's not good for my probe yeah yeah not do yeah look I mean you can say oh sorry you can see the indication it went up to like 320 something on the indicator that's terrible the quicks got pretty darn good regulation compared to the a10 it's brilliant actually alright so I'm gonna actually try and remove a quad flat-pack like this I don't know it's just because I've got it lying around I'm so there's a probably you know some thermal mass in there there's internal layers this would be at least a four layer board so you know I've actually given the lack of traces on the outside I think this is like a six layer board so yeah let's just try and suck out one of those I'm going to set it to maximum air flow rate and 400 degrees Celsius just because I don't know I could set it to maximum but let's just try 400 and see what happens I'm gonna have the widest nozzle I've got I've actually plugged it onto the main board just to hold it in place let's give it a burl oh hang on oh yeah that came off much quicker than I thought Wow hang on yeah I actually made the mistake of thinking that it would take longer but it didn't Wow yeah well considering that was my very first attempt at using this and that was a large QFP part wow that just came off real quick I should have like me even my tweezers weren't wide enough kind of had to spread them so that was a bit of a goof but well they came off very nicely and very quick I forgot to time it but geez that was probably not more than 15 20 seconds before it started to do the business tell you what this is RIT where you really start to appreciate the the pull off nature of the quick one because this a 10-1 it's got this stupid screw on type thing with a notch in it ah don't like it don't like it at all okay let's try the a-10 once again full airflow at 400 Celsius got a bigger tip I'm sorry about that I was I thought bigger would be better than the other little tiny one I had on there but geez and I I mean I could see the soul to go I don't know if I haven't played this video back but I could see the soul to go before with the quick and it's just jeez come on this thing's supposed to have overshoot too it's just not getting the volume all right here we go got it got it all right let's try this TMS 320 BGA I've just got a random teardown board can't remember what this comes from and it's you know it's probably like a six or eight layer it was probably a six layer board or something like that so let's give it a ball once again 400 at the maximum airflow rate I had success with that before so let's give it a go and we could he and I cranked it right up to 500 or whatever but it's not there we go got it okay let's try say ad pack on a vga card if you wanted to or graphics card you know whatever let's give that a ball because it's got a connected through to our decent-size ground plane no doubt yeah I'm there we go syrup meld I think yep beautiful and I don't think we touched anything else around there and stick is a bit charred it's a bit worse for wear but nothing else that just came off a dream no worries alright let's do a comparison with the a-10 once again at 400 max airflow I mean you know you could crank it up to 500 if you really want to some people have their own preferred techniques to keep it lower for longer or keep it higher for shorter time period but anyway Wow really need a fume extractor till I don't do this for business come on you can do it you can do it come on Wow yeah Mon can't see the there we go the solder just went mmm so as you can see the a 10 I think took a bit long they seem to struggle a bit more I would you know I get a better warm and fuzzy with the quick and I think if you actually put the time and next to that it is quicker as you'd expect no doubt because there's just and we're talking about a $300 our station compared to like a $70 station so you know it's just but if we had really bigger thermal mass parts and the quick is going to do the business better now the power package let's go shouldn't have any problems this is on a fairly beefy multi-layer board so come on you can do it you can do it wait for the solder to melt you can usually visually see it you usually see it go yeah well there we go there's there she goes no worries found one annoying thing you can't adjust the temperature while it's on the stand and cooling down that's really annoying you can't adjust anything damn it okay let's see if we can store this if we hold down I presume you haven't read the manual just hold down channel one yep channel one there you go so let's say we want a 320 and I don't know 47 on channel 2 jeez that's much quieter there we go stir it in channel 2 and then just up jump over to channel 1 Oh channel 2 nice ok I've let it cool down I'm going to try the adjacent part to it next to there but I'm gonna try it at 300 instead of 400 just to see what sort of capacity it's got at the lower temperature because you may want to set 8 you know if you don't like or you don't or there's a technical reason where you can't go to the higher temperature and generally you want to de solder and solder at the lowest temperature you possibly can especially when you leave in the air on something for a while like this let's see if we can do it at 300 so it's the exact same part let's give it a go oh is it yep yep got it got it hang on very very close very close yep no problems 300 so I'm actually very impressed like that to get that off with a 300 Max Air temple we've seen that it doesn't seem to overshoot on temperature so and by the time it gets into the chip it's probably not going to be 300 you know because where there's there's loss in the what centimeter half a centimeter we had towards and like getting to that chip going through the air it's going to spread out and cool down by the time it gets there so that did a really good job at 300 degrees C I'm impressed by that okay so I'm gonna try the attend one now at once again 300 degrees C max air flow it's not an identical part but pretty darn close to it so you know maybe we'll give it a bit more slack but let's see if this a tin can do 300 Celsius and this are tens no one to overshoot of course but let's see if it's got the heat flow possible at 300 degrees C cuz it's all a matter of airflow to you can't just do it you don't want to always set your air flow to maximum and so we'll give this a go come on so it's a delicate trade-off I mean you know it experience plays a huge part in this this is how someone like Luis rossmann makes it look real easy in his repair videos cuz he does it every day and he's done a the same part hundreds of times and you know where someone like me who does not to repair almost at all basically I you know I compared to someone who does it every day makes a heck of a difference you get a much better feel for the airflow and Terry good airflow on temperature you can use - oh yeah there we go ken still doesn't actually based upon the parts I've done now the anton is actually doing quite a reasonable job it is definitely not as good as the quick the quicker does it quicker go figure because it seems to have a greater heat volume as you'd expect but the attends kind of holding up but hey you know this could make the difference this can do it quicker and maybe at a potentially lower temperature as well that can make a difference between lifting tracks damaging nearby parts all sorts of stuff and you know it could cost you a lot of money in scrapping a board or something compared to the price difference between these two if you can pony up for the money for the quick I'd definitely do it just for kicks I'm going to ramp it right up to 500 I'm going to use this bigger right angle attachment I'm going after this bad boy this NVIDIA vanta anyone remember that haha you know just stop the board sliding around I should go get a proper holder got it we got it I know we lost a couple of pads bugger we lost a couple of balls on their thing I hate it when your balls drop believable with that um yeah I didn't right this is not my day job I'm waking up my day job for reworking VGA chips this is not the best you know you wouldn't do this you would use the proper the bigger like you can get like a dist and type one specifically for reworking our BJ's and stuff like that I just wanted to try this for kicks and yes it did come off I probably just didn't leave it long enough before I try to lift it off in there you know obviously they hid all that under Neath was fine but the ones on the outer ones weren't quite as hot as the other ones but you may consider and that's my first attempt at that I'm using this iron um that worked a treat kind up no not really but it came off check that out one sorry looking bored no I was actually gonna use my tech box artificial mains network here designed for our conducted mode emissions for measuring mains products just like have a little play around with it just to see our losses looking light problem perhaps but unfortunately um watch boom hit hit trip my earth leakage circuit breaker because high leakage current so so I'm I don't have an on earth leakage circuit breaker protected outlet here in the lab I think so so much for that hmm maybe next time so there you have it that's a look at the quick 861 DW and I think I've got to agree with Lewis this one is a winner winner winner chicken dinner for I know a lot of people can't afford 300 bucks for a hot air rework station if you're just doing you know occasional stuff like I am then the air tends kind of you know it's a bit crusty but it's get the job done for Europe you know 70 bucks or whatever but yeah this quick looks really nice and Lois has done bigger motherboard stuff and things like that he's done some accurate timing I'll link in the video at the end here so watch that one and he recommends this one too he reckons it's better than the hakko it does it or they can't remember the exact model number effects something or other so he reckons it wins hands down at any price point now I haven't compared it to other rework stations that's been so long since I've worked in the business and used other professional rework stations I'd have to have them to hand here but this is great I'm gonna love having this in lab the antennas it's Gonski there's just no like the quick the at hand can kind of sort of do a lot of jobs but it's not going to be able to do your big a heavy-duty er jobs that then squid does it's got no overshoots the build quality is excellent and for 300 bucks it's like a half or a third of the price of the big-name ones so I reckon this puppy's going to sell like hotcakes so thank you very much Lois for sending this one in it's going to be a great addition to the lab and I'll link in Louis's store down below I think I'm gonna add this one to my store as well I actually I used to have an Amazon well I still do have an Amazon store so thanks to everyone who buys stuff through there I get it like an affiliate Commission there's a link on my website to do that but they've like discontinued their stores and stuff so I've actually got a new kit.com store which not only links to Amazon but links to like camera places and other online places and once again I still get a commission based thing it doesn't cost you anything but I've got some recommended gear on this and I'm definitely going to add that to my kit comet list thing and I'm still doing I'm still using the Amazon affiliate program but it goes through kit comm so check that down below I'm gonna give that a ball anyway hope you like that if you did please give it a big thumbs up as always discuss down below catch you next time [Music]

Channel: EEVblog

Views: 243,478

Keywords: eevblog, video, quick 861dw, hot air, review, teardown, hot air gun, louis rossmann, soldering

Id: N_yHkrVYrBE

Length: 37min 2sec (2222 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 15 2018