Edge Trailing Sharpening the EASY Way

how's it going this is cliff uh today i just wanted to go ahead and let's try and do something we haven't done for a while let's do a actual sharpening um got old rusty machete this is a indonesian machete it's called a bandeau but it's like a parang style um fairly lightweight super rusty i did a couple touch tests to see if the corrosion was going to come off we're going to go ahead and take this and remove the corrosion and then we'll go ahead and talk about edge trailing sharpening and maybe even a little bit of shop safety today so let me get this set up and i'll be right back we'll get going okay i think this angle is going to give us our best show of what's going on and i haven't mentioned it before but the importance of having safety glasses when you're working a lot of times when i'm recording um i'm not thinking about that when i'm working i always am but when i'm talking to the camera or showing something i don't so this is important you always got your safety glasses especially with any tools that are spinning and you only get one pair of eyes so eyeglasses are on let's take a look at our basic surface pretty rusty i also have the scotch-brite belts and we're going to take a look at using them in progression these are scotch brite belts that we have on our website shop.currycustomcutlery.com we have the tan the red the blue and the new ultra fine grays so after we remove the rust with the scotch brite wheel then we'll go ahead and we'll do a wheel belt progression and we'll see what that will get us for a fine satin polish all right here we go this usually is really a quick process the trick is to move in a steady fashion the wheel forgot to mention the wheel on my machines are always going away i work on the top so if it ever is to catch or throw it's going to go that direction i use sound as a big part of my process so i can hear it from the front and the back i'm also being careful not to catch this fake edge on the back and there we already have dust collection also is important i have some fans behind me blowing this away uh if i was in an enclosed area or i should be wearing a mask if i wasn't talking to the camera [Music] probably easily the most dangerous tool in the shop is the bench grinder or the spinning wheel machine but it also has the ability to do more quicker than just about anything else these wheels also are porous so they don't develop a lot of heat which is really quite kind of surprising so this is not red-hot to the touch or you know for those concerned about damaging temper [Music] things like that [Music] they they tend to be cool and they run cool too just getting a little bit off the ends and that is i'm going edge trailing on that fake edge up on the top and just making very careful not to catch the front edge into this thing you always want to go away from you and hopefully everybody knows that or and that is that okay i'll reposition and we'll go ahead and go on to the next steps i do have my glasses on for safety when these things are brand new they do kick up a little bit of material they also just break in really fast and once they're up and going the blade's got a natural convex to it so i'm going to use the slack belt for most of it if i need to apply a little bit more pressure i can go on the platen and the thing for safety that you'll notice is that my fingers never come in front of the blade or on the side if this was to ever to catch or kick the blade i want my fingers to be upstream so that the blade goes this way and my hand is behind it that's something i always try to be really conscious of it's only one only about one out of a thousand times that a blade will catch or kick but you never want to have your fingers in front of the blade when that is to happen so i just hold from behind and from the back let's go ahead and we'll get over to the blue scotch brite which is a fine the tan is coarse the red is medium the blue is usually what i use for my finish i find it's easier and safer to deal with this stuff before you put an edge on it all right let's see if we can get the camera in so that's a fine satin polish you will see the scratches you will see the scratches going down it's like a factory satin let's see what the ultra fine gray does next once these get broken they're fine you just gotta give them a little help to get going at the beginning also you can take and bundle them up and loosen them up and soften them up before you put them on the machine [Music] okay so this should be a fine satin polish it's got a nice luster to it a lot of shine trying to get a little better angle than i did last time so you guys can see without having to see my shoulder in the way and my arm in the way this should do it uh we're going to start with a cubatron p120 sorry cubatron p80 uh it's it's been in use but it's still got a lot of bite left to it these things last longer than any belt on the market that i'm aware of at this point uh several independent youtubers have done um comparisons on how long they last and i think they're number one they also run about 30 cooler so they last a long time they run cooler and they're amazing belts made by 3m so they're products that we know okay not going to do the whole thing because we've got this all satin polished now but i am just going to put a convex edge up here it's super thin right now and you can actually see where it's deformed a little bit maybe this is a really great opportunity just to talk really quick about edge geometry so this is my own personal machete i came from indonesia it's probably a leaf spring and what i did is i decreased the angle to improve the cutting performance and at a certain point the material that i was cutting caused the edge to chip or roll or deform that's great because now i know what the minimum angle is that that steel can hold and then if you just increase the angle slightly you've now kind of optimized the cutting performance for this steel hitting that tree branch and if you're up at 20 25 30 degrees you're losing all that cutting performance because you're worried about chipping or rolling the edge take it down drop it down find where it fails then you know and then you just increase it slightly it's a beautiful idea you know the concept of doing that because that way you're getting the performance i had this set for cutting like banana leaves and then i wasn't really set for chopping through through hardwood tree branches and that's what happened so we're just going to go ahead and take that very thin apex and we're going to convex it out a little bit and that'll give it the strength so it shouldn't happen again and we still will maintain a lot of our cutting performance all right enough takitaki let's we're gonna go ahead and come in on the convex part at about 17 degrees this is edge trailing freehand and hopefully you see that little white bird pop right up it's actually not little that's large that's all there is to it once you have a continuous line all the way across you can stop you don't need to grind any more material off what's happening is the two edges come together and then when they meet and you've apexed the extra material that gets pulled off the end forms a bird that's very visible and it's very easy to see so that's your visual reference to let you know that it's time to go on to the next step there it is and that's i mean it's huge big visual so edge trailing is very easy method to use and that's why it's one of the most popular two it's also the most safe method because your hand is always behind the the sharp part and like we talked about earlier so it's going away from you but really i think the primary reason that it's used is because it's just so easy to see when you've apexed and then the only thing left to do at that point is to remove that bur so i'm going to go ahead and do one more step just to refine that edge which is honestly it's not needed but for today's ex example that's all that's really needed we're just we're just refining the scratch pattern the burr is still there we haven't removed the burr and then i have a leather belt right here so we'll just go ahead and use the leather belt i prefer to use leather belts with diamond emulsion but if you're trying to remove a large burr sometimes compounds are the way to go because they have a little bit more grip or stick to them i don't like green green tends to be too gunky any of the other ones are fun there's a dry green that works fine i like blue works great white is one of my favorites white diamond also is not very gunky so it doesn't leave you you will have some residue but you won't have a huge amount of residue that you gotta fight to get off the green is probably the worst and overloading the strop is probably the the number one offense that i see people so i'm just gonna i'm just gonna give it just a little bit of compound put my safety glasses on for safety and let me see if i can't zoom us in here a little bit closer let's see if i could do this with a camera in my lap here the idea is i want you to be able to see you see that little bird what we're doing is we're just moving i'm not even pressing hard i just want to see how that bird removes as i'm coming across now flip it over and you should start to see little bits of flakes of material i'm not pressing hard on it yet at all so you don't want to press too hard you don't want to push in at too deep of an angle you basically just want to match the flow of the surface that you have and let the leather and the compound pull that burr off and there you can really start to see it coming off i wonder if i can zoom in even a little bit i certainly can that's cool you can see just a little touch of it still hanging out there i'm not worried about it because you just go back and forth and now it starts to pop right off i'm going slow and taking my time just to demonstrate for the camera i could have also increased my speed a little bit increasing the speed will allow the belt not to roll over the lip as much hopefully that's understood that this is an edge trailing process you never want to go into a belt with a sharp object or it will cut the belt i know there's one little piece right there i see it you saw it okay that's way overkill let's zoom us out and set it up okay there we go all right so that is hair shaving there's not even a lot of bite to it and that brings me to my i mean it's super sharp and by most people's definitions i mean it is sticking to the hair on my arms i don't need to shave my arm of my hair i don't need to press against it it actually grabs the hair starts biting in and then as i move it along it'll just start taking the hairs off it's push cutting straight through phone book so it's really sharp but what you've lost is something i think is critical for if you're doing a draw cut is maintaining some of that tooth or that bite it feels like it's on glass and what happens is this large feather bur gets developed but then you polish it off and there's no little tiny little teeth left to do the draw cut to do the aggressive bite and what i found is because the burr is an edge trailing burs it tends to be very thin almost like tin foil like we watched it's very thin kind of like gold leaf even just very very thin and then that thin little material gets moved back and forth and what you're left with isn't necessarily a weak edge once you've got the the loose material removed but in the process of removing that loose material you end up buffing and polishing that apex to where there is no tooth left and this is it we saw it right there if we want we can take a look under the microscope i'll do that probably on the next one when we do the toothy edge edge leading the edge leading allows for a stronger tooth formation that then you can bring it together and maintain some of the tooth it also has the disadvantages of being a little bit more dangerous because you're going edge leading there's some safety concerns for that method as well other than that this is definitely a way that you can get things sharpened it's as easy as bringing something together and apexing it and then removing that burr there's a dozen different ways to remove a burr you could use a wheel we have leather wheels we have felt belts you could use a hard buffing wheel there's all different types of harder softer wheels there's all different types of compounds there's diamond emulsions several years ago i took probably a month and i ordered every compound every wheel and every combination i could try and i started doing a series of experiments to see you know which method worked best for me and they the bottom line is they all work you just need to adjust your if you're using a softer compound it's going to be more gunky maybe you have to speed up the belt a little more maybe you have to apply a little less pressure or a little more pressure if you apply too much pressure while you're trying to pull the burr off the leather belt will conform in and it will roll over the front edge and that's how you get dull at the stropping step so maybe it's sharp and then you go to strop it's usually because either the angle is too high the belt is going too slow or you press too hard all three of those things together will cause that leather belt or that felt belt or a wheel to push up over the top of the edge and round it off and that's that's what we're trying to avoid here leather wheels work really good i find they don't remove huge burrs as well as i would like something with a little bit more bite to it seems to work a little better for me let's just see if this will work so there you go that's a good way to sign it off i guess we have all these products available at our shop shop.currycustomcutlery.com really appreciate you guys watching enjoying the heck out of doing these videos for you guys uh trying to put out one a week and we'll keep going if you have any suggestions for things you'd like to see me do please put it in the comments down below i really appreciate you guys viewing and subscribing and thanks for your time [Music] you

Channel: Curry Custom Cutlery

Views: 7,900

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Id: iFt19NJO2MA

Length: 20min 59sec (1259 seconds)

Published: Sun Aug 21 2022