DR650 project: transforming the stock carburetor! (BST magic)︱Cross Training Adventure

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There's a wide range of jetting kits and carbie  mods available, but today we are just looking   at mostly simple do-it-yourself mods that can be  done very cheaply and give you great performance   and economy without an obnxiously loud bike.  And you know how we feel about loud bikes.  So we start by ripping off  the side covers, the seat,   and the fuel tank. We take off the fuel hose. These grommets here, you want to take these out   before they fall down somewhere. When you pull  the tank off, make sure these rubbers don't   fall off.Once the fuel line is off you'll see  this little bit of white plastic, an annoyingly   small fuel filter. Replace it with a decent-sized  fuel filter as per this photo. This is a critical   mod - this breaether for the vacuum carb. If it's dirty or blocked, you're going to be   wearing your carb, your bike will stop running. We recommend servicing this every time service   your air filter. Adding extra foam is not  just extra protection, then you never have   to service inside one. You can just pull this  out easily. I you don't modify your dr650 carb,  leave the snorkel in. Loosen off these  bolts, so we can swing the carb around.   Loosen that. The choke cable here is very very  fragile. That's plastic in there, it breaks   very easily or strips. Now we swing the carb around, we remove the screws on top. Many replace these screws  because they're garbage. We  lift the top off, there's a spring in there.  Don't lose this o-ring, don't let it go missing. There's our needle. This is our  slide. Looking in the top of the carb, this is the slide guide.You  can see those holes each side.  When these holes disappear, that's when  it's time to replace your slide guide. It should last 20000km to 30000km. But if  you let this get dirty it'll be way sooner. If you do taper the needle, you can remove the  snorkel, but don't enlarge this air hole you will   get increased air intake but just enough to suit  a type of needle that's assuming you don't change   your main jet problem with the stock needle it's  too fat down here so the bikes too lean off idle   what a lot of guys do is they will drop the needle  here so that they get rid of that bog that happens   off idle problem is then it's crap everywhere  else for the rest of the rev range what we're   going to do is taper the needle to get good  fuel air mixture right through the red rain so what we're going to do here  is grind this little bit of   plastic so it'll change where it sits in the hobby now down in here there's a little shell we have  ground the plastic on this so the needles going to   sit lower it'll bypass the shell and be positioned  better so this doesn't need to come completely to   a point but fairly close the important thing is  just getting the taper here don't take too much   off forget get a shape roughly like this and you  really want to look after this diaphragm is if   you do get a little nick in it the bike is not  going to operate properly you slide won't have   a vacuum to work against your throttle will pretty  much stop working once the engine is running the   vacuum created is what determines how quickly  the slides going to come up we actually drill   an extra hole here so that we'll get a better  throttle response so the clicker this slide   comes up the quicker the fuel comes in which is  very similar to what a pumper carb does we will   also drill out this second hole well then from  the side straight down and in live the second   fall as well so we had just one two and a half  mil hole now we have two three millimeter holes   because we have shaved that bit of plastic and  it'll sit further down we don't need to make any   adjustment of the needle position for Australian  conditions year round this is a good compromise   now uzuki with these terrible Philips bolts down  on the float Bowl and are these and stripped   very easily they're very easily an important  thing given how tricky these bolts are then   not Philips they are actually j.i s and this is a  JIS screwdriver Japanese industrial standard once   it comes now we swing the car be around the  other way so we can access this screw again   we're using this tool just the risk not bearing  it always check for water and dirt in the bottom   of your flat bowl we flip this around more to  access to mange it 1:40 manger if you leave   this stock but if you're going to a 150 main jet  here we will cut the airbox main jet coming off mind Jets backing as mentioned earlier make sure this overhang is  still there and get a torch just to make sure   the needle is definitely sitting off the shelf  bingo this is 112 mil Juan will be cutting it down   to 100 so because we've shortened this spring it  means the throttle response will be faster similar   to a pump a card when you throttle off it's also  backs off a bit gentler and smoother as well a   smoother ride all over awesome thing to watch out  for when reinstalling this pipe this hose here can   drop off and we can see it has this hose can also  kink and you can get the same issue as if it's not   on its a hose that you want to check every time  you move this carb at all so we tighten this back   up tighten this one back up and then tighten the  car be back up itself probably can't see it with   the camera but there is a knots there and a notch  there to allow you to line the car be up correctly   and now it's time to drill the air box one thing  to remember these nuts can come out easily if   you're not careful we usually just put some sort  of cloth in here prior to cutting this is 2 inches   or 51 millimeters and one thing we do is we keep  this as far away from this breather as possible if   you go near this breeder you're going to interrupt  the airflow which we think is the main cause of   Surgeons there Gordon spent a lot of experimenting  with smaller holes bigger holes different   positions this is the one that he's found best and  this size hole works well regardless of how much   further you go with the main jet sights very  handy thing in dusty conditions is put one of   these chucks super wipes in here without filter  oil or liquid tuck this around properly and the   beauty is that when you travel off the dust will  actually fall off and into the bottom of the box   like stay in the bottom Canadians love this sort  of stuff because they're so lazy now the thing   is this weld in here sometimes is really messy  and it always restricts the diameter going into   the pipe and it creates turbulence you'll get a  significant power difference simply by grinding   this nice and flat now the trick though is not  to take the whole thing out this is what holds   these two bits together so you probably want to  leave about 1 mil of weld still there minimum you can take it more than this but this is  what's recommended to leave just to keep the   strength there if you really wanted it full  performance of course you can grind it smooth   on the inside that a dwelled around here even if  you haven't modded you buy it should be upon and   a half screws out once you do these mods it will  normally be one and three-quarters turns out this   can be plus or minus half a turn depending  on temperature and other factors we highly   recommend the Suzuki GSX our exhaust for good  power gains a great sound but far quieter than   aftermarket exhausts according to dyno charts  we've seen these mods all provide about a 10%   improvement across the rev range and make a big  difference to fuel economy better starting and   how smoothly it runs at low revs just do this  up snugly not quite it's a great idea to lock   tight anything on a dr when you're screwing it  back up use the caps bolts that come with the   GSXR now the map was on properly we tighten all  these remaining bolts correctly and including   the header pipe hole these bolts in particular  you want lock tight on these vibrate easily now we put this on prime after the car Bea's  been drained just so it replenishes easily an   important thing to remember is these little  holes here they go on little tabs to make   sure the side cutters stay in securely so  because the engines running so much better   now we've got to reduce the idle speed but  set up and now we do a test ride what we're   looking for is a little bit of fluffiness a  little bit of hesitation just around quarter   throttle if so we may need reaching it  a bit and change the needle position you
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Channel: Cross Training Adventure
Views: 408,151
Rating: 4.8715258 out of 5
Keywords: dr650, dr650 power mods, dr650 derestriction, dr650 carby, dr650 jetting, dr650 airbox, dr650 header pipe, dr650 exhaust, dr650 gsxr, dr650 adventure bike, BST magic
Id: aN1aU0G4YQE
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 12min 9sec (729 seconds)
Published: Sun Dec 27 2015
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