Domes, Arches and Minarets: Islamic Architecture in America

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>> From the Library of Congress in Washington, D.C. >> Mary Jane Deeb: Good afternoon, everyone, and thank you all for coming. I'm Mary Jane Deeb, Chief of the African Release Division. And it's a great pleasure to have you all here for what promises to be a wonderful, wonderful presentation on Domes, Arches and Minarets by Mr. Phil Pasquini. And I just want to say a few words, as I do regarding what we do here in the division. We're a division made up of three sections; the African, the Mideastern, and the [inaudible] sections. And we are responsible for 78 countries in Africa, the Middle East, Central Asia, the [inaudible] and responsible for many, many of the languages in the region. Our specialists are scholars with knowledge of the region, of the languages. We are responsible for the collections. So we command, we collect, we shelve, we preserve and we serve. And we serve to our patrons materials in the languages of those countries. So if you're doing research on any one of those countries, the materials in those languages are here in our stacks. But materials referring in western languages to those countries are part of the general collection. We always do programs, as the one we have today, to enrich our knowledge of the countries that we cover to share with our patrons more information about those collections, and to show how our collections are being used, are being used to write articles, to write books, to inform. And many of our countries seem often quite exotic [inaudible], having little to do with the United States. But today's program actually shows how those very countries have had an impact and continue to have an impact on the United States. And not just culturally or linguistically, or in terms of food or whatever, but physically in terms of the very architecture of the cities and the programs. And it's only by having someone like Phil Pasquini go around the country, observe, take pictures, and show and demonstrate the impact of those cultures which seem so foreign to many and yet are integrated and very much part of the United States landscape. It's only by having someone like him show it that we understand, we get a better understanding of really the impact of the world on the US. So in order to introduce the speaker, we have Joan Weeks who's the head of our [inaudible] section and also the Turkish specialist. She wears both hats. And who met Phil Pasquini at a gathering and invited him when she realized how exciting the work he was doing is, and she wanted to share with everyone the work that he has done. So Joan will introduce the speaker, and thank you again all for being here today. [ Applause ] >> Joan Weeks: Thank you, Mary Jane. I'd also like to welcome everyone. And now it is my great pleasure to introduce our speaker. Phil Pasquini is internationally acclaimed photo journalist. In his professional career he has worked as a college professor in sculpture and industrial design, and has lectured on these subjects in Europe and the Middle East. Since 1999 he has been a staff photographer at the Washington Report on Middle East affairs. This very interesting journal I have here in my hands, and I invite you to check for that. Also we have it in our collections, and look for it as well. In his work as a photo journalist, his photographs have appeared in publications worldwide. He's also worked as a foreign radio correspondent reporting from Europe and the Middle East, and across the United States. In 2010 he received the prestigious Council on American Islamic Relations, CAIR Award, for fairness and integrity in the media. In 1980 he received a national endowment for the arts individual fellowship, which allowed him to pursue a photographic study of ancient Egyptian art and sites in Egypt. That, to me, sounds very exciting, to be able to be able to go there and photograph those fantastic treasures. He has traveled extensively in North America, Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East pursuing many significant and historical news stories. His interest in Islamic architecture first evolved from a trip to Morocco in 1970 and has been an ongoing photographic subject in his work since that time. He illustrated his book Domes, Arches, and Minarets as well his lecture with images from the library's prints and photographs collection. Perhaps after today's talk you'll see reflections of Islamic architecture around you. I, for example, as I was preparing this, was reminded of the paintings inside the dome of the main reading room, which attributes the areas of the world's knowledge where they came from. And physics is attributed to Islam. So perhaps you'll see more of these reflections as he goes through his lecture. Please help me welcome Phil to the podium. Thank you. [ Applause ] >> Phil Pasquini: I have to hydrate first. Let me start by thanking Joan Weeks and Doctor for inviting me here today to speak. It's a great pleasure to be here. And I also wanted to acknowledge how much of a part of this book I utilized the resources of The Library of Congress in its production. It was very instrumental. I just want to make a few comments first, and then I'll get into the presentation. But the purpose behind my doing the book was, in part, to dispel the notion that somehow on 911, which as you'll remember we celebrated or acknowledged the terrible disaster yesterday, but how much that caused people to think that somehow Islam arrived in America at that time. And what I tried to do in the book historically was to focus on how much Muslims have been a part of our country since before its inception on the North American continent. And I will show you some images that dispel that notion, at least for the most part. Domes, Arches, and Minarets. We're having the presentation today. [Inaudible Comments]. Oh, I'm sorry, okay. Is this better. All right. Okay. Well, the presentation today, okay, good, in no small part, is brought to us by basically two people. Al Huzen [phonetic], who was from Baghdad originally but worked in Cairo in the 10/11 to 10/21 wrote a book on optics based on Chinese observations and discoveries. And he created the camera obscure, which if you'll go down to the Renaissance you'll remember Da Vinci, a very [inaudible] artist, utilized in order to project images to copy them in their art. And then, of course, more modern times, today's presentation, with Apple computer and the personal computer with Steve Jobs who actually has a Syrian background. So we don't think of these things in those terms, but I think it's important to conceptualize what we're looking at today. The earliest building built by Muslims, and there are only two in the book that were built by Muslims, and everything else was built by non-Muslims. But the first one is The Alamo from 1744. It was built by Moorish craftsmen and designed by Moorish Craftsmen. And we think of it normally as an iconic building in the development of Southern Texas and Texicanos in American history. But little is acknowledged about its original origins. Much to their credit, at the Alamo itself, there is a panel that talks about the Moorish design, which is most prominent on the El Pheese [phonetic] which is the frame around the front door. And you can see in this illustration the various carvings of floral motif. Another building that was part of The Alamo chain is the Mission San Francisco de la espada, which is an important building. It was initially going to be built much larger than what it is. And the entry was a quatrafoil, that you can see on the image on the right. So it was a circular, four shapes for a flower and then a square running into it, giving eight points, which is an important thing in Islamic design. But when it was constructed, you can see in the top image, the church was smaller. So they had to change the pieces around. But had it been constructed the way it was intended to, you see it's much larger for the entryway. And you get a better sense for that shape. I first wanted to talk about some of the influences on Islamic design in American architecture. And probably the best place to start is with literature. Almost everyone in the 1800s utilized The Bible as a source of information and inspiration. And the illustrated Bibles always depicted the Holy Land, as you can see in this image, with domes, arches, and minarets. So it's always as though everybody in the Holy Land lived in either a mosque or next to a mosque. You can see the city scape is very filled with them. In 1883, the Villa Zorayda was created by Franklin Smith, who was a self-taught architect. And he liked Islamic style literature and built this building based on a couple of books that he read. And he brought to Saint Augustine the Islamic style of architecture that it's so famous for today. If you go down there, you'll see lots of buildings with Islamic influence. The other thing that helped induce people's interest in the Middle East, it was referred to at that time as The Orient, was depictions of illustrations from 1001 Nights, the Genie in the Bottle and The Fisherman and all these things. They're stereotypic, iconographic images, but they're always depicted on a city scape over which is interposed or superimposed domes, arches, and minarets once again. So this theme keeps coming up visually in many of these depictions. In Hollywood today, at The Highland Center, which was based on a film done by Cecil B. DeMille, the ground is covered around the concrete with granite oriental carpets that are designed. And it tickles me to see people walking around and they don't really recollect or seem to understand the significance of the buildings' Islamic origins. The only city built in the US based on 1001 Nights theme was America's Arabian Night City of Opalocka, Florida. In 1924 it was designed. Well, it started out as going to be an English Tudor styled city. And the developer, Curtis, who invented or worked on aircraft and was instrumental in development of aircraft carriers decided, when he took a woman out, to look at the site. And she said, well, this looks like 1001 Nights. So he hurriedly sent a telegraph to his architect in New York and said we're changing the theme. I want it to be 1001 Nights. So the guy had to go out, get a copy of the book, read it, looked at the illustrations and came up. And this was the City Hall, which originally was the real estate office. This is one of the homes in the development. It actually had a dome on it, at one point. So it looks like a miniature mosque. But there's still 124 buildings in the city, original buildings from 1920s which depict the theme in various manners. This is the Opalocka, Florida train station and it's still being used. It's been renovated and it's now a childcare center. But if you dropped me down there, I would swear I was in Morocco. It has such a heavy Moroccan influence with the tiles and horseshoe arches and so on. Another part of literature, of course, is Ali Baba and the 40 Thieves, spelled Alibaba. In Costa Mesa, California they managed to slam Ali and Baba together. So it says Alibaba. This is a very American building. The name is misspelled, for what purpose I don't know. It's in Costa Mesa, California and it's run by a family from Taiwan. So it makes it even more American in that very diverse sense that we all celebrate. Another influence on the public's interest in and the development of Islamic styled buildings was foreign travel. In the mid to late 1800s only very wealthy people went overseas, many of them to the Holy Land, a lot of them around the Levont. And many came back and either added acutriments to the existing building or the end or the built what I call a souvenir of their trips. This was one building built by Frederick Church. You may remember him as the Hudson School River Painter. He made a fortune on a painting, a huge painting that he charged 25 cents to see, that went around the country. And he decided to build a mansion after his family, his children all died of child illness. And he and his wife decided they would start a new family. They would build a new house. They would go overseas. They would come back and they would have a fortress to protect the family from further problems. So he started a French Mansard style mansion. After he got to North Africa, he telegraphed his architect. There seemed to be a lot of telegraphs going back and forth with architecture. And he said, "I want to do a Persian style building. So stop what you're doing, and I'll send you drawings and designs," which he did. And so today Alana has this overlay on a French Mansard style structure of his Islamic influence. And when you go in the front door, there's a glass clear story window above it. In Arabic it says Morhaba [phonetic] or Welcome in gold leaf. But his sense of orientalism is very eclectic. He has Japanese, Chinese, Himalayan, Great Masters Paintings and all these other things on the interior. So the interior and exterior are somewhat of a mishmash of styles. Another wealthy benefactor to the arts was George Metz, who had a lot of money from furniture and pharmaceuticals in Quincy, Illinois. He went to North Africa and sketched a lot of buildings. And when he came back, he hired George or -- yeah, George Barinsmyer [phonetic], a famous architect in that region, to build his house based on Tunisian and Moroccan buildings that he saw. And he carried the theme more intensively on the interior. And here you can see in this building, a very elaborate beautiful building, somewhat Hollywoodesque in that the black and portion that you see on the walls is actually painted. And these beautiful columns with this turned spiral is actually pieces of wood that are glued together and twisted slightly to create deterrence. So labor intensive and it has all the intent of being authentic, but on a very superficial sort of level. But nonetheless, a very beautiful building. Amy Semple McPherson, who was as many of you may remember a radio Christian Evangelist who had a large following, worked very hard in the 1920s, amassed tons of money and decided to build herself a retreat based on her experiences in the Holy Land. And so she had gone to Jerusalem. And she came back and then there's this disconnect, Jerusalem being filled with this wonderful brown stone. And she built an Andalusian Spanish Moorish style building where she went to on the weekends. But it was quite hush hush. She didn't want her followers to know she was spending money on this. So in the 1930s after the stock market crashed, she was noble enough to sell her building and take the proceeds and help feed people who were her followers. And actually the church still owns the building today, as far as I know. But it, too, is a beautiful building. It formerly had crescents on the tops of the two minarets. The church put the cross up there, and the prayer room was the room on the right with the dome. Famous buildings were another source of inspiration, and this is the Taj Mahal houseboat in Sausalito, California. It's the only depiction of Taj Mahal, that I know of, that has a wine cellar in the basement below water. So it functions on a very different level, but it's a very beautiful building as well. Of course you're familiar with Aya Sophia in Istanbul, which is set the notion of what standard architecture should look like for Moorish or for mosque design. It's been the inspiration for a number of buildings, one of which was the Shriners Temple in Wilkesbury, Pennsylvania. You can see it looks very much like it, with the exception of the four minarets which are Indo-Islamic. But it's a beautiful building in very poor shape. They're trying to restore it, and they've been arguing about whether or not it should be torn down. One of the most interesting ones is the blue dome gas station in Tulsa, Oklahoma, based on the Aya Sophia. This was common. This was the first gas station that was built on a corner. Gas stations, when they were first built, were built mid-block and people had a hard time getting in and out of them. Somebody got the bright idea if we put it on a corner, people can come from all directions. And so this was the solution to that. It has a mechanic's bay in an L shape, and that's important for what I'll show you in a moment. Today this is a very famous building that was going to be torn down, but people raised a lot of noise about it. So they kept it. And the district around it's now called The Blue Dome District. So it's inspired again from Aya Sophia as Calmos [phonetic] number 1 was inspired in Hollywood, California on a corner with a mechanic's bay and L shape and two minarets. And some time ago they tore everything down except the minarets. So if you drive down Sunset Boulevard today, there are what people refer to as rocket ships or pencil towers, not knowing the history behind the building. This just tickles me, because it's so obvious and apparent if you're really attuned to Islamic design. But it has this wonderful character about it. This is the Thanksgiving Chapel from Dallas, Texas designed by Philip Johnson. And when Dallas was doing a renovation downtown, they decided they wanted to celebrate a theme. And they came up with the theme of Thanksgiving, and they offered that to any group that wanted to celebrate Thanksgiving to come up with a design. So a group came together and they hired Philip Johnson, and he first came with the mockett of stacked blocks, like a ziggurat. And he said this will work. And the woman who I met there said this is crazy. Thanksgiving should spiral the heaven. And he said I'll be back. And he went back and he knew of the very tall minaret in Iraq. And he looked at that and decided this would be a good answer for the solution. And he came back and they built a nondenominational spiral based on the minaret, which, by the way, the original minaret was so tall that when the Moesn [phonetic] called to prayer, no one could hear him because he was like 160 feet off the ground. World's Fairs were another thing that induced people to orientalist architecture and styles. And the World's Fair in Chicago in 1893 was one of many. They had the risque belly dancer, Little Egypt, at that time. And one of the most popular exhibits was the Moorish Palace. And there was always an ethnographic division, and one of the most popular ones starting in France earlier was called Streets of Cairo where they had real Egyptians and hookahs and oriental carpets and souvenirs and a sook and so on. And so this really built this notion of familiarity and interest in orientalist design and architecture, much of which was embodied later. This is the East Indian Pavilion in 1898 at the Chicago World's Fair. And one of the people who went there was a very wealthy developer from California who built El Miradero, and that was Leslie Brand, which today is a public library. But you can see how similar these two buildings are. And he took lots of photographs. And when he came back, he hired an architect and this is what he came up with. This is a famous building that has a story behind it. Munenori Yamasaki is the Japanese-American architect who was interned during World War II in the camps, went to college, graduated as an architect. Went to an office, started drawing lines, got very bored, decided to travel. Traveled around the world. Got to India. He saw the Taj Mahal. He went to the Middle East. He saw all these buildings and he became enamored with Islamic arches. And in 1962, he designed the US Sinus Pavilion for the Seattle World's Fair. But his most famous building were the Twin Towers in New York, which is kind of a hidden piece of information that they were influenced by Islamic arches and even referred to, ironically enough, as The Plaza between the two buildings using a small M as the mecca in the United States. So there's this wonderful connection that's so bizarre. And if you wrote it, people would consider it fiction most probably originally. Advertising, another thing where we have Ottoman Turk tobacco being presented in chocolates. The Egyptian theme. The Hills Brother Sudanese drinking coffee, which was referred to as the wine of the Arabia. I love that as coffee. It has wonderful ring to it. Hollywood, of course, has done nothing to promote good view of Arabs or Muslims, but it has been instrumental in reinforcing once again this architectural designs and so forth. And you can see in every depiction there's the same thing there, the same theme; domes, arches, and minarets. Even movie theaters were thematic. I can't think of how many Islamaphobes may go to Alhambra Theater and never put the two together in their mind as separate and distinct. But one very interesting theater is The Missouri Theater built by the Boller Brothers in St. Joseph, Missouri. They were regional architects and they worked a lot on thematic movie theaters. And here we have a Moorish Endo-Islamic design. When you go inside it's Assyrian and Babylon, for some unknown reason. They keep slamming these things together. It has this beautiful painted canopy and a light show of stars and the moon going in and out. So it was really overwhelming. Nobody's done more for Islamic design probably than the Shriners, and you remember those guys. They used to have what they called Shrine Mosques. Then they called them Shrine Temples. Now they refer to them as Shriners Buildings. But they're the guys in the little cars that drive around and they have clowns, raise money for benevolent organizations. And they refer to themselves as Masons who have fun, which I think is kind of a nice hook. Their earlier building, the Lu Lu Temple from 1904 in Philadelphia. Lu Lu in Arabic means pearl. So it was the pearl temple, and it set the stage for all following buildings. They wanted to identify themselves on the landscape in a unique Islamic style. And I don't think you can go anywhere in the country where there isn't an old Shriners Temple that depicts that. And these things have become so familiar on the landscape that no one thinks about their origins or their influences, which is rather interesting. The oldest building built in Islamic style in the US probably was this building from 1829, built by Mrs. Trollop [phonetic], who was an English writer who they referred to as Old Madam Vinegar. I guess that talks a lot about her demeanor. But she came to the US as an abolitionist. She joined a group of abolitionists in Memphis in an area called German Town. It was nothing more than a swamp. Their concept was to pay slave owners what it cost for a specific person and take them under their wing and let them work the monies that they paid out. So it was really kind of a mishmash of understanding about giving people freedom. She lived there for about six months, became very confused by what was going on, left, moved back to Cincinnati, said America has no culture at all and Cincinnati has nothing. So she decided to create a cultured temple, if you will. Seneca Palmer was her architect. They looked at buildings from Egypt. She found a mosque she liked. She built this building. She used it for art shows, poetry readings, musical performances, drama, and various other venues. The whole thing went bust in about six months. She was disgusted. She moved back to Europe. Later died and was buried in Florence. But it was the first purpose known building in an Islamic style that we know of. Another early building. This is Exodent [assumed spelling], still with us, in Columbia, Tennessee, The Atheneum which was built by President Polk's nephew in an Islamic style. We believe that when it was built the two wings on either side were not there. So it was just a central portion that was painted white. He never lived in it. He rented it to the founder of The Atheneum, who actually was the inventor. And in the book I talk a lot about the history of the buildings. And really it's a cross section of known and unknown things in portions of America and art history. But ultimately to shrink the story, the gentleman who lived here invented one of the first torpedoes during the Civil War that was used by the Confederacy against the US Navy. So there's lots of information that's ancillary. Well, the one person who did a tremendous amount for Islamic architecture was PT Barnum who built a building he called Iranistan. And this and the next image are both from The Library of Congress. He was such a great promoter that when the building was being built and afterwards, people would go by on the train from New York up. I can't think of the town now in Connecticut. Bridgeport. And he got the time tables and he hired a guy who he dressed as a Hindu. Why, I don't know. And an elephant that he put a plow on, and he had it plowing the fields when the train went up and came back. And this, of course, overnight was a sensation in newspapers. Everybody picked up on it and said Barnum's building this Islamic styled house and he's got, you know, Arabs working in the fields. So the amount of information was really messed up. This again is from The Library of Congress. It's Iranistan, which we know about the stans and this is an interesting depiction. He had one cardinal rule, and that was no smoking in the building. He entertained Jenny Lind here, who hated him. And when she came to this house she said, "I'll work for you. I'll sing whatever you want." So he got her under his wings. Somebody was working in there. They left their pipe overnight and it burned up. It was completely destroyed. Another thing that induced people's interest in the Middle East or The Orient, as it was referred to again, was Jefferson Davis who created the camel cores just before the Civil War, where they brought camels from the Lavont in Saudi Arabia to the US for the US Military. And the calvary thought this was kind of weird. And then when they got on them to ride them, they absolutely hated the camels. But this was in every newspaper all over the country for a long time. They brought this gentleman with him. He was actually a Greek who had converted to Islam. His name was Haji Ali [phonetic], and they couldn't pronounce his name so they called him Hi Jolly [phonetic]. And Hi Jolly was the leader of the camel core. And when he died, they buried him in Quartzite, Arizona which is in the middle of the desert, high desert in Arizona. And my wife Elaine and I visited his grave a few years ago, and would had not understood about it was they used red, white, and blue rocks in building the pyramid. So it's this very American pyramid of Egyptian origin with a camel at the top. But his story really induced a lot of interest in things. And one of the most incredible buildings is by Haller Nutt. Nutt's Folly they called it. This was built in Natchez, Mississippi by Holler Nutt who was a plantation owner. He was a cotton grower. And he and his father had gone to Egypt and stolen some seeds under the threat of death, came back and became fabulously wealthy. And for his wife, Holler Nutt hired Samuel Sloan from Philadelphia to build this building. They started a year, couple years before the Civil War started. And right when the Civil War started, they were given a date that all the Yankees, if they weren't on the other side of the Mason-Dixon Line, would be executed. So all his workmen ran away. They only finished the exterior. The roof was unfinished, but the roofer came back and said I've got finish it even if they kill me. The building's got to be, have a proper roof. So he did fix it. But even today, if you go there, you'll see buckets of paint the way they were left in 1862. The workmen just abandoned the building and it's been preserved in that state. Here you can see all the building materials and the arches for the stonework. The building's used now by a lot of universities and institutions. Architectural students will come here to look at building techniques from the 19th Century. So it's a really interesting place. It's a time capsule of what went on in that era. Here you're looking up into the dome. This is an interesting building. It's the Scroll and Key Tomb. For those who couldn't get in to Skull and Bones at Yale in New Haven, they took their rejection and said we'll build our own tomb and we'll do it in Islamic style. And if you look at the two buildings, Scroll and Key, and the bones men, as they call themselves, this is much more beautiful, much nicer a structure. This is a Turkish pavilion from Saint Louis in the park there. It's one of the more interesting buildings. It should have a carousel underneath it, but it doesn't. And it's a fantasy depiction of what obviously a Turkish pavilion would look like. This is an Israel synagogue in Owensboro, Kentucky. And it utilizes two very prominent Islamic designs, the Turkish turbines at the top and the gothic arched windows. And the gothic arched windows are originally inspired by Islamic architecture in the Islamic arches. So we see this heavy influence in both instances. This is the home of Charles Curtis, the only Native American Vice President in the US. It's in Topeka, Kansas. Charles Curtis was a Kaw Indian, and he bought this house from a doctor and the doctor had. This was quite popular at the time, and that was putting an accouterments on an existing building to make it more exotic and give it an ambiance of knowledge and experience that the person may not actually have. So they use these modified of Moorished art, Moorish domes. This is in Minneapolis, Minnesota. It was built by a doctor. Or actually it was built first. Sorry. It was built by a lumber baron who hired a Swedish-American architect to building the building. And he told him I need two domes on it. So he built the barrels to support the domes, and just below you can see there are some circular designs. And those are Swedish, from Swedish myths and stories. So we have another amalgam of an Edwardian style structure with Swedish accoutrements in Islamic design. This was a building that was instrumental in development of the gasoline- fired soldering iron, because the tinsmith who was working on the modified Islamic dome had an assistant that ran up the ladder with a hot iron and handed it to him and he could seal about an inch and it would cool off. And the kid would have to run down and grab another one, run back up. So he thought I need to do something, and he invented this particular device. While buildings were built, so were tombs and cemeteries. And in New Orleans, this was a tomb built for the Lariden [phonetic] family in Islamic style, rather interesting. If you see a Victorian cemetery, you'll see depictions periodically of Islamic style buildings. This is a Tampa Bay hotel built between 1888 and 1891 in Florida. The building is so huge that when we went there to photograph it, we walked around it. It's one mile around the exterior of the building. There are like something like 500 rooms, hotel rooms. The developer, who was like Flagler on the west coast, had tons of money and went to Europe while the building was being built and bought 18 train carloads of antiques and European and Islamic objects to furnish his hotel with so that New Yorkers would be induced to something they were comfortable with during the winter to be ensconced in the same ambiance that they had in New York. These are some of the carpenter gothic details of Moorish arches. And I love the minarets, the domes on them in a Turkic style in that they're painted silver in the wonderful ironwork. This is the Union building in New York where Andy Warhol had his second studio, where he was shot. And I believe a woman, the other guy was killed. And his part of the studio was the central part that you see with the Moorish arch. These are buildings from the 20th and 24th Century now. This was very common. This is a Turkish corner for smoking in Hannibal, Missouri in a mansion. And actually Mark Twain came here and Samuel Clemmons came here and gave a talk and was very impressed by this. In fact, Moorish smoking rooms became so popular that Sears catalogs would sell you the whole room for about $80. You could have an ottoman, a divan, a hookah, drapes, all this stuff so that you could have this in your mansion. And many of these buildings had an extra room that nobody identified with, or the room was designated specifically for viewing a coffin when one of the owners died. And after a while, people found that as kind of a morose kind of thing. So they decided to upgrade it, with the new smoking room, Turkish smoking room. This is the Sauntry Mansion in Stillwater, Minnesota. And Sauntry was a lumber baron. He was a very wealthy guy, and he built the gymnasium on his house in an Islamic style. And he got his architect to get passages from the Koran in Arabic to stencil on the walls, and they did. They stenciled them all over the walls religiously. The only problem was they couldn't read Arabic, so they were all stenciled backwards. So it has this kind of great character about it. Good intentions; bad, you know, follow through. Berkeley, California. This is one of a number of houses that look exactly alike, except for this one which has the OG [phonetic] Islamic arches on the front porch. And I'm sure everybody in the neighborhood talked about this house and related to it, in some way or other. But it's a very interesting building. This is a wonderful building in San Francisco. I remember this from many, many years ago and from my youth. It's an Edwardian structure that was built by the Vindanta [phonetic] Society, which is a followers of a Swami who was into medication and vegetarianism and so on. He was at the World's Fair in San Francisco, and then he decided to stay. And he built this building. And the interesting part of the design is across the top of the building, each of these structures. This is for Christianity. This celebrates the Hindu Temple in India. This was Islamic Crescent and Trident. This one I love. It's the Hershey Kisses domes, it's called. Below is a Mugal [phonetic] style from Taj Mahal, and then we have Moorish columns and Mogel arches. So it's got really everything thrown into it. And it's so exotic that when you look at it, you almost get retinal fatigue. There's so many things going on. This was a building built by a very wealthy developer. It's called the El Hambra [phonetic] Apartments. He built his penthouse at the top. I was not able to get in there. But it was a very expensive building and very expensive, at the time, part of town. Now everything around it is pretty stressed, but this building's been maintained quite well. This is another favorite building of mine, the Islamic. It's called The Islam Temple, and it's now the Alcazar Theater. And the Shriners were good. When they built the building, they always had commercial spaces. And when I would show this to my class, when I was lecturing, they'd go that's the parking lot, because they have a garage. It was built by T. Patterson Ross, who was the architect who rebuilt Chinatown after the 1906 earthquake. And he built it in a hyper Chinese style to look like a series of temples. And to the westerners it looks exotic, and to Asians it looks exactly like temples. And nobody can dispel the difference there. But they hired Patterson because he was a Shriner. And they said we want you to build the new mosque, and he said I'll be happy to do it. And he did. And he said there's one thing I want to do. I want to put my name on the cornerstone. And they went, no, you can't do that. It's only for the potentate. Only his name can be there. And he said I got to have it on there. And they had this argument back and forth. So it was about 30 years after it was built that somebody actually who could read Arabic came to the building. And they looked, and they saw that across the top it said in Arabic in these glazed tiles "All Those That Enter, Enter in Peace". And on the right it says, "Ross is an Architect of No Equivalent". And on the left side, it has another depiction. So it was too late to do anything. And he got his name exactly where he wanted it, which was pretty interesting. This is the tallest minaret in the United States. It's 142 feet tall. It's in Helena, Montana and it's attached the Algeria Temple built in 1921. And around 1925 they decided to take the top of the minaret off and put a huge search light so that aircraft flying in would know they were getting close to the airport. And fortunately the people in town raised a ruckus. They went to City Hall and they screamed and yelled. And they went, okay, okay, we'll put it back. And they did put a top piece on it, but it's very different than what was there originally. This is another very funny building, the Corn Palace in Mitchell, South Dakota, where all the paintings on the building itself are done with wheat and rye and various grains and grasses that are grown commercially in the area. Corn palaces were used to get people to move to the upper midwest in the late 1800s when land was very cheap. And they wanted to display what you could grow, the bonny of the land. And so they would have these pavilions and festivals, and people would come from different parts of the country and decide that they wanted to settle down there. So it was an inducement to develop the land. This is the Angeles Abby built in 1923. It's a cemetery in LA. This is a column barium. There are three primary buildings there, all incredibly rich styles. Some very academic, and some more fantasy like. This is the town of Gerard, California developed in 1923 by a guy by the name of, what else, Gerard. It's now called Woodland Hills. But he built a faux Turkish Village at the crossroads and he had a published newspaper every day about what was going on in town, which was nothing because it was empty lots. And he had a butcher shop and a grocery store, and a gas station. And he had what he called sucker buses to bring people from LA to the valley, where nobody would ever live today. It's, of course, one mega city. But he used the Turkish theme as an inducement to draw people to his development. This was one of the first temples in New York, 1923, The Mecca Temple built for the Shriners. It just underwent another 60 million dollar renovation. I think they've had two in the last 12 years, if I remember correctly. It is an absolutely beautiful building, both inside and out. The first female architect in Los Angeles was Marie Russick Hutcher [assumed spelling], who was part of the Cortana Society, who moved to LA from Chicago and New York and built their own structures all in Islamic style. And they later moved to Ojai, California when they found cheaper land and had different needs. This is the Sparklets Drinking Water company, which looks so Moroccan to me. It had two minarets that were cracked during an earthquake, so they were taken down. So this is all that's remaining today. This is Patio del Moro, which is a Tunisian tower that you can see in the background. It's El Mahad [phonetic], so it's a square minaret. And then it has this Islamic Moorish style, very beautiful building. Humphrey Bogart and one of his mistresses had two rooms here and there's a lot of Hollywood history behind this building. It's rather interesting. I love this building. The Crescent Laundry in Tyler, Texas, and I love the railroad crossing sign. And it's the perfect composition, in my mind. They've renovated it. And in my mind, they've completely destroyed it. They painted it and put flowers. But at the time that I was able to photograph it, it was still pretty in its normal state. Apartments. Interesting building. If you look, there's a Hershey's Kiss dome on the left and around the dome on the right. And if you look on the windows just below the domes, the shapes of the exact opposite from the one. So it's this diagonal crisscrossing. I like the American flag in the window, too. And the Alamo parapet, which takes us back to the original building. I'm sure they used it for other purposes. This is a wonderful academically correct building, if you'll accept that it's both Endo-Islamic and it has some Moorish accouterments. The Shrine Temple and it's a Tripoli Temple in Milwaukee. And I often wondered what Shriners did. And Lynn and I, when we were there, got to go inside, and I found out they drink beer and play pool. Because inside it's mostly pool tables and big kegs of beer, which is rather interesting. But here's the dome, the interior of the dome, which is absolutely beautiful. It has Star of David, and then Koranic inscriptions. This is in Washington, DC, the Almas Temple at McPherson Square. They were building what's now the new Washington Post building, and the developer wanted to buy the property and tear it down. And they fought him, hook and nail. They finally struck a deal that they would move the building to the end of the lot, because it was going to be in the center where the building was. So the Shriners agreed to it. If they didn't have to pay for anything and they built everything behind it brand new, to meet their needs, which they agreed to. So they took 30,000 tiles off of the building, built the new building, went back to put them back. And somebody said where's the plans? And the answer was, what plans? So they had to work for three years in a warehouse, reassembling 30,000 tiles back to the original depiction of the buildings. So I'm sure somebody lost their job over [inaudible]. I can only imagine. This is, I call it, the Vertical Castita. It's in San Francisco. You look at it. It has parabolic arch, very Islamic. The Islamic screen and so on is superimposed between these other two buildings. This is on 18th Street, like 18th and Connecticut, I believe, a beautiful building. It's got some huge banner about beer in front of it now. I don't know. It's a nightclub perhaps, or something. This is a Moorish mosque residence in Los Angeles, has this wonderful dome covered with mosaics. This was a Turkish building at Crossroads of the World, which is a studio that Charlie Chaplin built. And it has thematic clusters of buildings. There's English Tudor buildings and French Provincial buildings. And this is their depiction of the Turkish building. Another tomb from Metairie Cemetery in New Orleans from 1939. This is Aub Zam Zam Cocktails. Zam Zam water is the holy water from Mecca, and this guy is a Syrian. He didn't like Islamic theme. So he opened a cocktail bar called Aub Zam Zam. And it's got these little minarets above the top. You go inside, it looks like Omar Kyam [phonetic]. There's all these paintings and gazelles running on the wall. This is from 1947, the National Date Festival in Indio, California. It's a backdrop for the things. They have a play every year, a thematic play. The year we were there, it was Chinese. So it was almost like an Iban Batuta [phonetic] thing with this overlay, with this in the background. And here's just one of the other parts of it, which is, I mean, out of context like this, it could be anywhere in the Muslim World. This is Frank Lloyd Wright's Civic Center, Marin County, were we live part-time. Frank Lloyd Wright was hired by the King in Iraq in the early 1950s, who said I want to rebuild, destroy Baghdad, want to tear everything down. I'm going to build a modern Islamic City. And Frank Lloyd Wright did a tremendous amount of research and came up with all these designs. The King was deposed. The project didn't move forward. In 1957 the community, county community came together and decided to build a new civic center. They wanted to hire an architect of note. So they hired Wright. They said we want to build a building. What do you suggest? He came to the site and he said I know exactly what you want, what you need. And he used his design to build what's essentially a mosque. It has these large loyas [phonetic] with arches, and it's got this huge dome and the minaret, which in this case exhausts all the exhaust for the building. But it's a beautiful building and people pass it all the time in recoliating [phonetic]. This is in a country club plaza in Kansas City. The first, what can I say? Shopping center that you needed an automobile to go to. This started the scorage on the land, but in Islamic style as well. This is an interesting building. It's called The Mosque by its neighbors. It's in San Marino California, and every building around here is a ranch style house. And this is completely incongruent with its surroundings, but very distinct. It was built on the courtyard of the architects from a famous El Handra [phonetic]. This is the Palace of Wax in Grand Prairie, Texas. It was Ripley's building. So it's a thematic building to induce people for entertainment when they enter. This is Medina Wassel [phonetic]. This is a US Army National Training Center for troops for pre- deployment certification before they go to Iraq or Afghanistan and on this base. There are many bases that have similar operations, but on this case there are 13 what they call lanes which are scenarios for different depictions of situations. And this one, it's very calm looking and then suddenly everything starts happening where some troops come into town unguarded. And the so called insurgents are trying to take them away. And so they have to come in and try to negotiate with people and fight their way in and fight their way out. So this is just one depiction. All the actors who are working here are actually Iraqi natives. So they only speak Arabic. And the buildings are all built out of shipping containers by a company that builds Hollywood backdrops. Here's another portion. You can see a solider standing back, in the background, and these guys are walking. But everything is domes and arches and minarets, and so on. This I found interesting. This is from the college that I showed you earlier, Tampa University. And this is an American flag flying under a crescent ever since 1884. So it's been around for a very long time. And that's the end. [ Applause ] I'd be happy to take any questions or comments that you have. Yes, ma'am? >> I have a question. I want to know [inaudible] very curious [inaudible] Ukrainians. >> Ukrainians, right. >> Yes. It's my [inaudible]. So it's up behind their national shrine up there with [inaudible]. >> Oh, okay. >> It looks more like a mosque than it does. >> Phil Pasquini: I'm not familiar with it, but I'll have to check it out. >> Yeah. >> Phil Pasquini: Yeah. >> Yes, on like [inaudible] and Taylor. >> Phil Pasquini: Okay. >> Yeah, looks it's in white with gold domes, a number of gold domes. >> Phil Pasquini: Interesting. >> While it could be in Saint Petersburg, the colors don't match. >> Phil Pasquini: Yeah. >> Yeah. It's just, yeah, something to look [inaudible]. >> Phil Pasquini: Well, there's the onion-shaped dome on Russian Orthodox buildings. And that's borrowed, if you will, from Islamic design as well because where Russia is and where these things overlap. So there's a lot of cross-pollenization like that, but I will check that out. >> I think that dome has a [inaudible]. >> Phil Pasquini: It could, yeah, interesting. Yes? >> How [inaudible]. Because that number being [inaudible]. I actually thought it was a mosque. >> Phil Pasquini: Yeah. >> Until you walk up to it [inaudible]. And they weren't expensive. >> Phil Pasquini: Yeah. Yeah. >> What is the connection? >> Phil Pasquini: So it goes back to I can't remember the year, but it was early 1900s I believe that there was a guy who was a mason who was in Southern France. And he was invited to a party for an oriental potentate. And we got there, everybody was in oriental dress. They had Tarboosh fezzes [phonetic] and they had balloon pants and turned-up shoes. And he thought this is great. This is exactly what we need in the masons, because it's so drab and boring. And he came back to New York. And he met a fellow mason. He was an actor, and the guy that he met was a doctor. And they decided that they would do something. So they said, well, let's start a separate offshoot. We'll start the Shrine, because they were thinking about mosques and shrines. And so they started The Shriners. And their depiction, it's very Egyptian if you look at the symbology. They have the Spinx and then there's the Simatar [phonetic]. And when they meet somebody they say [foreign language]. And the response is [foreign language]. And they have a secret handshake, which I haven't been able to get to the bottom of because I don't belong. And they originally named their buildings. And they purposely built the buildings in an Islamic style to make them distinctive on the landscape. And this is what German Jews did with mosques starting in the 1850s in Germany. They decided they wanted a distinctive style for a synagogue that would also delineate their presence on the landscape. So The Shriners decided to build these buildings. And when you see them, they always have a fez on. And if you look, you know, they have ties with pyramids and so on. So they have become really affected by all of that, which I find really interesting especially in today's world. And so many of these things are disconnected. I don't know how many people really know that a fez has orientalist or Islamic origins or now it's been used a sign, a symbol of repression under the Ottomans and so on. So there's all these historical, you know, things that go on with it was well. That's kind of a backdrop. And I do go into the history of The Shrine in the book, because I wanted to contextualize that as part of this history as it evolves and moves forward. But they're significant. And since doing the book, I think I found over 235 buildings that are still existing in this style. So they're pretty much everywhere. And a lot of people will say to me afterwards, you know, I was in Philadelphia and I was going down this street. And after I saw what you had in that book, I saw this other building. So these people have become, you know, sensitized to opening their eyes and seeing these things, which I think is really positive, you know, good thing. Yes? >> On a more contemporary level, I know when you go down I-75, Toledo, Cleveland, there's a big mosque there on the side of the highway of I-75. Are you familiar with that one? >> Phil Pasquini: No, I'm not. I haven't gotten outside of the beltway, when I'm in DC. It's a big problem for me. >> And the second thing I was going to ask. I was just at a convention in New Jersey [inaudible]. You've been to Harlem? >> Phil Pasquini: In New York, yeah. >> Okay. When you go, there's a building that's now called [inaudible] Malcolm Chabazz [phonetic]. >> Phil Pasquini: Yeah, Chabazz. I know it, yeah. >> The architect who put the dome on there, he was given an award, a lifetime award. >> Phil Pasquini: Oh, good. >> His last name is Sampson. He's 90 years old now. >> Phil Pasquini: Yeah, that's an interesting building. That's about a block away from the Chabazz Market, I think, which is near there. >> Yeah, they actually run the market. >> Phil Pasquini: Yeah, they do, okay. Yeah, I thought it was connected. That's cool. That's a good building. Yes, Joan? >> Joan Weeks: I'm just absolutely fascinated with all of the way, his stories behind his buildings and how he uncovered some of those stories. [Inaudible] historical societies or have you come across people who kind of remember how these things [inaudible]. >> Phil Pasquini: It really somewhat serendipitous and a lot of hard work, and a lot of Googling, a lot of reading, a lot of looking at maps that were located in the map and geography division in The Library of Congress. And then just a lot of real hard searching. And in some cases, I was able to find the architect of buildings that nobody knew who the architect was. It had gotten lost in historical records. Some people, when I went to the building, they said, oh, yeah, we love this building. It's the only one in the US like it. And I felt terrible telling them no, it's one of many. But it was a good learning experience for them, because then they realized that, you know, Islamic design has been part of American culture for a very long time, before we were a country. And so, you know, they somewhat came more around to thinking about these things as not threatening, but as part of a historical thing. But a lot of reading. I met a lot of wonderful people who are caretakers for the buildings, who are really into it. Many of them had stories. Holler Nutt's Building in Natchez. I met a woman who lived there, when she was a kid, because her aunt was a descendant of Nutt. And they lived there as a child and tourists would come. And she'd tell people, oh, don't go in that room. There's a ghost in there. And these people are, oh, my God, you know. And so they had their own interpretation and depiction of the building. So I did learn quite a lot from people who owned the buildings. And then I tried to, each plate in the book, there on the left side there's the names of the building's been known under, the year of construction, the style, the architects' names, and then whether or not it's something historical, the National Registry for Historical Buildings. And then I put as much as the history that I could find about the building there as well, and then on the right side is the full photograph of the structure. So it acts both as the historical reference and a catalog of these buildings. Some, as I said, are in bad shape and need rehabilitation. But it was a labor of love. It took me five years, and we traveled around at 25 states. And then we'd have to stay in a town at least four days just so I could shoot buildings at different times of the day. And one day it would rain, the next day the sun would be out, you know. The usual thing, trying to catch everything in its perfect light. So a labor of love it's been. >> So how did you [inaudible]. I mean what was your approach? As you said, you went to these five different states. So did you know already that these buildings were there or did you discover them, or how did you find out about them? >> Phil Pasquini: Well, I did a lot of research. So, for example, I went to Tennessee to photograph a number of buildings. And I was driving back to the hotel in Memphis. And I went, oh, my God, look. Here's this beautiful Islamic building I knew nothing about it. It's now a law office, but it was an apartment house I think originally. So somewhat serendipitous. The one I talked about with the inventor of the soldering iron, we were walking down the street in Rapid City and turned the corner, and here's this building. You know, it was almost maybe divine intervention I was pulled to these buildings. So it was a combination of both, of concerted effort and in a few instances just happening upon things. Or someone would tell me, well, if you like this building, you should see the one, you know, five blocks over there. And I'd go and it would either be an Islamic building or it could be a Russian Orthodox church or something, you know, not connected. But it had some of the same similar architectural details. And so that's a good question and it did evolve in some ways. Yes? >> So what was your original inspiration? Did you go to Morocco first? >> Phil Pasquini: In 1970, I went to Morocco and it seemed very exotic to me. And only later did I find out that my mother's family had lived there 500 years in the year 1010 to about 1121, or something. So that kind of pulled me into it. But I always liked Islamic styled things, because it seemed so exotic to me. And as a kid growing up in Sacramento, California where there's really nothing. And I went to El Hambra Theater when I was a kid, and it was orientalist. And that totally, you know, got my interest. I did the book, as I said earlier, because I wanted to dispel the notion that this call came about on 911, that Muslims arrived in America with nefarious intents. And I wanted to contextualize that history properly in the sense that Muslims have been in America before it was even a country. And we know that historically on many levels. And there's a wonderful book, and I can't recollect the title of it now. But in it, he talks about the history of music and poetry and dance and design and many things that have Islamic roots. Mathematics, for example, that are not often credited properly and seem as a construct of Western European invention, and we know that not to be true. It's always interesting when people are arguing about diversity, and they pick up a newspaper and I think you're reading something in the Latin alphabet and you're looking at Arabic numerals. I don't know how more diverse that can be. So we kind of remove ourselves from these things. Does that answer your question? >> It does. >> Phil Pasquini: Yes, you had a question also. I'm sorry. Yes? >> Well, do you know about the [inaudible], which was the Turkish Embassy? >> Phil Pasquini: Yes. >> About 20 years ago? >> Phil Pasquini: Yeah. >> And now they have a different building, but that building serves as the [inaudible]. >> Phil Pasquini: Right. >> And not so much outside of it. >> Phil Pasquini: Right. >> But it's [inaudible]. >> Phil Pasquini: I haven't been inside, but the exterior, yeah. >> A Turkish ambassador lives there. >> Phil Pasquini: Right, right. >> So [inaudible]. >> Phil Pasquini: Yeah. >> [Inaudible]. >> Phil Pasquini: I'll get in there one day and check it out. >> But that would be. My understanding, that was built. That building was built by an American who maybe lived in Istanbul or was very familiar with the Islamic architecture. >> Phil Pasquini: Interesting. >> He was very inspired. And then he built that building, house, mansion [inaudible] Circle. So it came up for sale, I think, about maybe the '30s, '20s or '30s of last century. So the Turkish [inaudible]. >> Phil Pasquini: They bought it, yeah. >> Yeah, that's the story I [inaudible]. >> Phil Pasquini: Interesting. >> That might be of interest to you. >> Phil Pasquini: Yeah, I would. >> When you're expanding your research. >> Phil Pasquini: You know, someone asked me why didn't you do the interiors of the buildings. And I didn't want to do a book that was this thick, you know. But the interiors of many of these buildings are so beautiful, and many of them are thematic. And some of them are completely incongruent with their exterior. They've just never built anything, you know, really exotic on the inside. But there's a lot of wonderful buildings around. Anything? >> Can I also ask you? >> Phil Pasquini: Yes. >> Is it too late? Okay, I'll ask. That's okay. >> Joan Weeks: Thank you so much for a fascinating lecture. [Applause] >> Phil Pasquini: Thank you.
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Channel: Library of Congress
Views: 7,226
Rating: 4.7543859 out of 5
Keywords: Library of Congress
Id: j_NYf-00610
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Length: 66min 36sec (3996 seconds)
Published: Tue Nov 13 2018
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