Does My Electric Hummer have a KEY? - Time for some LED upgrades!

[Music] hello hello we've been trying to reach you concerning your vehicle's extended warranty i'm like 72 percent sure i'm beyond the warranty at this point we've been offering this warranty to everyone you want to ensure a war zoned military humvee that's been converted to an electric vehicle in some guy's garage sorry i mean it's like a tank and a prius had a baby and the delivery doctor was frankenstein sure and there's like a non-zero chance that the electric torque will snap off all four tires the first time i floor it does that really sound like an insurable situation let's get started [Music] so in the last video about building the 12 volt system where we built the brains of this whole operation it was brought to my attention that i need to add fuses before my relays for some reason i was thinking that the relay would act as the fuse turns out that's not the case this is a normal size fuse and this is the fuse that we need in front of the relays i mean everything probably would have been fine but if something ever went wrong and something shorted out my passengers would have gotten really toasty really quick and the fuse solves that problem better to be safe than sorry so i will be adding these big old fuses in front of the relays before i start actually wiring them up to the heavy duty components in today's video now that the control panel is finished we'll be wiring up all of the exterior lights like the blinkers and the headlights and a few of the 12 volt components one thing that's a little bit different between my military humvee and a regular car on the road is that the military humvees have a 24 volt system which is why we have to swap pretty much everything out for 12 volt components the problem with the previous system being 24 volts is that if i switch to a 12 volt system now these lights are going to require twice as many amps to run which means i have to run thicker wires to everything luckily i think i can switch out these bulbs and the headlights with leds that are already pre-configured to run with 12 volts because it's way more common in regular civilian vehicles these days and so that's an easy way around that problem and this is the 12 volt led [Applause] as far as the internal wiring goes i got a little snip happy uh with all the wiring harnesses so we can see right up in here is where i snipped all of the wires that go towards the tail lights so one of these is the reverse one of them is the brake line one of them is the blinker and i have to figure all that out and i'm not sure if you can see this but these are 14 gauge wires which should work with my led 12 volt system i can just use the same copper wiring so now if i take my 12 volt jumper and i bring it over and attach it to the rear taillights we should have illumination the problem though which i didn't realize before is i thought this had reverse lights turns out the military humvees do not have reverse lights only on like the ambulance versions these lights down here are actually blackout lights so the humvees can drive around at night and not be seen by anybody else except for you know people wearing night vision in order to speed things up i'm probably just gonna have to order lights that would fit in h1 led lights and then put them on my military humvee so it's going to take a couple days for those to arrive but for you guys they are already here the power of editing what's nice about these h1 lights is that they are already 12 volt and already led so we're saving power and it's the right voltage for this vehicle that we're creating even though they were a bit more expensive so what we need to do now is pop these rivets off pull out the old housing put the new housing in which should fit pretty good and then we can wire up the tail lights taking out the tail lights is easy enough there's just a series of rivets surrounding the outside edge of the light fixture [Applause] once those are drilled out the fixture can be removed and i can take the new fixture and put it into place what's cool about this new fixture going into place is that the rivet hole locations are in the exact same spot as the original humvee and rivets are actually pretty cool so this is a rivet gun we're to pop the rivet into the gun and press it down like this then when it goes into the piece of metal this part's going to expand watch as i crank this then the tip breaks off and we're left with a rivet holding two pieces of material together we're only doing two rivets right now because eventually i want to paint this thing and it's easier to drill out two than you know all eight or so not too shabby and now we have reverse slides in a 12 volt system there's good things and bad things about working on a project this size one there's lots of room for stuff so i don't have to cram things in but two it's very difficult to move things around so i'm going to be mounting the headlights and the blinkers while the hood is tilted up against the garage this thing is massive but lucky for us am general has labeled each of these wires individually with little numbers like if we go over here to this low beam we can see that it's labeled 18c and we can trace that wire all the way over here to this low beam and down here to this connector which i'm going to reuse when i put it all back together i'll just splice the ends of the wires that i need onto the bottom of this harness you can buy large plugs like this so i mean if it gets too dirty or if it doesn't work i'll just do that but it's here already wired up so i'm just going to use the wires that already exist now the turn signals are installed the only real changes we have to do to the wiring is just installing these little single plug connectors which apparently are pretty universal it's got a bag of these same connectors on amazon so i'm going to snip off the old connectors which we don't need anymore now that i've wired up each of these cables and then i can put these plugs on the end of the wires we should be good to go now that should be a waterproof connection water resistant connection for the parking lights so initially i plan on using these headlights i kind of like the look of them but when i try to put them into the housing they don't quite fit and so instead of doing a bunch of expensive modification that would take a long time to the headlights i decided to go this route now both of these are jeep headlights just a seven inch round headlight and this one fits perfectly an easy way to tell how many amps one of the components is using in your circuit is with a voltmeter i have this hooked up to the fused output and i'm completing the circuit with the voltmeter so if i connect here to the high beams it says we are using three and a half amps if i connect here to the low beams we are using two amps which is incredibly low and if i connect here to the running lights we are only using wow .06 that's pretty impressive led has a lot less draw on the system than we would if we were running regular bulbs and these are still extremely bright now i will have to pull the old connectors off of the old headlights chop this off and splice them in because these were built for a jeep but then i can use the same plugs on my hood for this setup the only issue with the new headlights is that they have something called a daytime running light which needs another wire that we don't have access to so i'm going to take this little rubber grommet and uh make my own little access hole and the rubber grommet helps keep water out as well as keeps the wire from rubbing up against the metal sides and cutting itself [Music] and now we have a nice little hole to pass a wire through i'll clean up the rust and stuff inside of this housing probably a little bit later once i know the the hummer works because we got a long way to go then i can take the parking light wire run it through and i'll probably just tap into the side marker light so they can turn on at the same time so i've never actually used t-tap connectors before but it seems like they'd fit pretty well with this situation where we need to tap into one of the other wires to get power we know that the side markers are going to be turning on for the running lights and we want the running lights from the headlight to turn on with it so if we crimp the spade connector onto the white wire and use the t-tap connector to bite into the wire from the side marker it'll be able to grab that power anytime i flip the switch inside of the hummer we'll have to see how they hold up over time got everything wired up using the existing harness added bolt the driver's running lights to the headlights now it's time to see if they work all right this one is going to be the right front turn signal this one is going to be the left front turn signal parking lights which should trigger both the little guys inside of the headlights the low beams open and wire those up correctly and finally the high beams yeah it's a lot of light making progress we're trying to use as much of the old wiring as we can i left quite a bit of wires running from the tail lights up to the front because it makes the project a little easier and luckily there's wire diagrams online that tells us which wire is which and which wire goes where so the blinkers took a minute for us to figure out remember that the original humvee is a 24 volt system and this is the solid state flasher that causes the signals to blink and obviously we can't use a 24 volt flasher with a 12 volt system which is what we're putting in right now so we had to get one of these and something specific to led lights because they draw so little power so this right here is a little flasher relay so if we take one of the blinker leds as you can see if i just connect it to a 12 volt power source it'll just turn on consistently and stay on but if i connect that same contact to this flasher relay just like this it'll blink just like a blinker should so now i just have to mount this underneath the dash and i'll be able to wire up the blinkers this is what causes it to blink what i'm hoping is we'll be able to use this same signal stock that's attached to the steering wheel for the blinkers and rear taillights and stuff we have all the wires down here labeled and these two are going to that flasher we just talked about which i've mounted up underneath the dash where the previous flasher used to be and of course i'll need a key for my rig the original humvees just come with a little flip switch that goes from the engine stop to the run position while you wait for the glow plugs to heat up then you flip it to the start where it engages the starter and starts the vehicle there's no key needed with the military humvee seems a little sketchy but i guess when all the passengers are carrying m16s there's not a whole lot to worry about as i'm building my civilian h1 though i'm not going to be carrying an m16 in which case i need a key i'll need to drill a slightly bigger hole and then slide the ignition into place then i can go from the off position to the run position and start all my accessories i have that special relay that engages half of the fuse panel when it's flipped into the run position all a key really is is just a switch going from the off position to the on position i don't need these light switches anymore either so i'll just pop those out i plan on putting a big stainless plate here with switches for my lights and other accessories but we'll get to that later now if you listen very closely every time i turn this key the relay underneath the passenger seat will turn on so before i wire up all these wires to the dash we're going to start with something a little easier which is the horn now i can't use the existing horn which is sitting here underneath the inverter because it's a 24 volt horn and it doesn't sound that great on a 12 volt system [Music] sounds like one of those old-school telephones not quite what we're going for now i have two horns to choose from here we have a 330 hertz which is this guy should be loud [Music] okay a little better than the last one dang that was loud and then we have this guy this is 400 hertz [Music] i think i like the lower one let's go with the lower there's the old horn before we can install the horn i need to figure out how much power it'll actually draw when it's being pressed that way we know what size fuse to use later [Music] four amps and a headache i'll explain fuses in a second the old horn was mounted right here the new horn i stuck right inside of this cavity on this bracket so it's facing straight down just like the old horn did now just need to route some wires to the battery and the horn switch [Music] so the way i can check and make sure i have the right wire for this horn is by taking my power probe sticking it on the wire i think it is and pressing the horn now i don't think this is the best switch in the world probably because this is a 1995 and it's super old but at least we found it basically since we know the horn is going to pull 4 amps we put the 10 amp fuse to let the electricity flow through it but if it ever exceeds 10 amps the fuse will break and cut the circuit with the hummer in run and turned on we should have horns so now it's time to wire up the headlights and things are going to get a little bit confusing i have some of these switches right here which are just little push button switches and there are five wires coming out of the back now remember this is my first time doing this and we're going to learn together on this one the switch has a couple different options we have these blue wires which are normally open and these yellow wires which are normally closed no and nc the black and red wires are just to light up the led ring that's in the top of the switch and it makes a pretty cool little blue glow which i really like let me show you really quick just like that and i can make that glow happen with however i want to wire up the switch whether it's normally open or normally closed for example right now i have these two blue wires which are normally open wired up to this side marker light and so since it's normally open that means there's a break in the circuit meaning that when i connect this to the negative and positive of the battery it won't turn on i'd double check to make sure but when i click the button now the circuit is closed and this should turn on perfect so i'm going to switch it to the yellow wires and it should be the exact opposite doesn't matter which one of these is negative which one is positive because it's just a switch so now the yellow is the normally closed so when the switch is like flush and not pressed in that means my switch should turn on then when i close it the light does not work science these are a 10 amp switch and since my headlights are never gonna exceed like four amps we're just fine using them so [Music] six now obviously this is just a template but it'll be a good placeholder and a good spot to test fit our buttons and make sure everything works before we laser cut the final version [Music] it's supposed to be right here bummer [Music] now we should be good to go now we're talking we're leaving it oh wow that covers up our mistake nicely no complaints so this is just a placeholder for the final version when i made this template i wanted it to match the curves along the side as well as sit about a centimeter inside of this was a little bit of a bezel all the way around put this hole in the wrong spot measure twice cut once but now this gives me a little bit of a place to put my light buttons to kind of see where things are gonna work and then when i know how many switches i'm actually gonna need like for the windshield wipers and stuff i can plan out the final version and laser cut it in stainless steel so it matches everything else so this is a step bit and hopefully i'll get the holes drilled for the buttons so we can get the headlights working [Music] first one in remember anytime i say anything at all in any of these videos it's me learning it for the first time and explaining what i did and hoping for the best so what we have here is three switches these are just going to be the daytime running lights so you can ignore these for a minute this one though is going to be the regular headlights and when i press it you would think that this is going to turn on the headlights but it's not the headlights are connected to this switch on the normally open wires which are the yellow ones so the headlight goes into this switch sends power to this switch and goes out to the regular headlights with this yellow wire here now if i want to turn on the brights remember the headlights are on right now going through the switch i'll press this and that turns off the regular headlights and on for the brights which is running through this pair of wires right here the blue and red and the grounds are all connected back here three to a group just running to a bolt in the frame because the frame is grounded hopefully it works getting a little complex with the wires there for a second but luckily when i took off the old hood i had one of the old plugs which is this guy right here all pre-labeled right next to the plug and this plug can come over here and stall in the frame just kind of screws in with those four screws and i'll be able to run the headlights and driving lights and everything right there underneath the dashboard so for all of these wires there's only one ground wire so i'm going to wire that up first having only one ground wire makes things convenient less wires running around underneath the hood and since all the front lights are now leds there's hardly any power consumption anyway okay so we got the low beams and high beams along with the ground wired up this might look like a rat's nest right now but i will put some cable shielding on it before we actually go anywhere one time i was holding my heat gun a little too close to this thing of heat shrink tubing and now a bunch of these are unusable now it's flat there she is and the headlights work so right now we should be able to get the parking lights going then we have the regular lights and the brights yes that worked out very well so as far as connecting the rear driving lights you know the ones that turn on while we're driving but aren't essential to driving i'm hoping that the electrical circuit kind of acts like a garden hose because i have one loop running up to the front end of the car and one loop running to the back end of the car and with a garden hose you can connect as many sprinkler heads as you want and the electricity or the water would flow evenly to each of those sprinkler heads in this case we're installing leds and the electricity should flow evenly to all the leds even though they're on two different loops attached to the same button there's two ways to find out if this would work or not one is researching and two is just doing it the old rear side marker lights had rivets holding them in place i've removed those and installed new housings and with everything wired up using the old wires that held the previous lights we can see if everything turns on at the same time so we already know we have the daylight running lights headed out to the front of the vehicle which is going to be this wire here and we need to tap into this wire to go to the rear of the vehicle for the lights back there and i'm going to do that with something like this this is one of the splices from the factory you can see a wire back here wire going out and then a big junction right here where the two wires meet except for i'm gonna do that with one of these solder joints that'll shrink down once i heat it up as well as a piece of heat shrink over the top of that as well i don't know if you can see that really well but the solder is now dripping into the copper and holding everything there and now that it's cooled down a little bit i can slide this over top and better secure the whole thing [Applause] and now the daylight running lights can come down this black wire divvy out into two wires headed towards the rear of the car as well as headed towards the front and that glue in there with both the heat shrink connections and the solder i think is going to be more than enough to hold it with the key on and the daylight running lights engaged we should have power to these backlights and we do done and by done i mean we have a long way to go finally it's time to upgrade the dash metal from this flimsy piece of tin that i have now to a laser-cut piece of stainless steel i just printed out a small design i made from fusion 360 to see if it would fit and it's going to sit right about here with all the holes cut out for the buttons i need and of course the keyhole this is what it looks like with all the uh dials and switches taken out this is kind of what i made temporarily eventually we're gonna have to take out the speedometer and all of these other gauges over here but we'll do that during the high voltage video i think we are off to a good start the reason i chose to laser cut my dashboard and the shifter and a few other stainless parts is because the laser machine can do in seconds what would take me days to cut out by hand all you have to do is take my design upload it to oshkos website and they can have the parts to me next day once again this video is not sponsored i just think this laser is super awesome plus the machine is local to me so i get to come see it in action [Music] all of my parts have been laser cut out of 304 stainless steel you know the same material cyber trucks being made from laser cut some new stainless steel plates to replace these kind of rusted out guys look at these bolts compared to the new hardware all held in place by these guys which are actually called u-style clip-on nuts they just clip over the fiberglass and get something strong for the bolt to screw into there we go now the back side of the headlight wiring has the same stainless steel accents as the rest of the vehicle moment of truth time to see if it fits very nice there we have it the dashboard is installed with our running lights lights and brights i have these three buttons installed but they're not attached to anything quite yet they are currently laser etched with turret cloaking and eject realistically i'll probably wire the turret and the cloaking up to something you know normal like a light bar but if you're ever on a ride with me just keep in mind that the eject button might be real the laser cut piece of metal is quite a bit better than the piece of metal i tried to make myself i think that's it for the 12 volt system we learned quite a lot about the 12 volt battery the lights and how like the brains of the operation work along with some pretty cool laser-cut components that uh help everything function there's a few more things i have to do to get it street legal like the windshield wiper motor and a blower for the windshield in cold weather but for the most part the 12 volt system is pretty much done i am filming several videos about this project simultaneously so if you notice that in some of the other videos the dashboard isn't in place yet that's why i think in the next video we'll work on the power steering and the power brake since both of those are pretty vital to the uh function of the vehicle and maybe after that we'll see if we can get the motor spinning if you have any questions make sure to leave them down in the comments coming out with me on instagram and twitter and thanks a ton for watching i'll see you around

Channel: JerryRigEverything

Views: 1,401,967

Keywords: Electric hummer, Electric humvee, Electric truck, Ev conversion, 12 volt system, 12 volt headlights, blinkers, horn, tail lights, relay, fuse, cybertruck, rivian, ford lightning, tesla, electric vehicles

Id: RzJZHHIcEbc

Length: 31min 21sec (1881 seconds)

Published: Wed Sep 01 2021