Dodgy mains emergency light. Full build and schematic.

somebody was mentioning that have not done a project in a while so I thought okay let's do a project and a while back I looked at our emergency down late and thought you know what's the simplest design you could make for that so let's design an emergency light that can take either nickel metal hydride cells or used lithium cells you know ones you've salvaged out of equipment and it's not necessarily a project forever because this is a means parent project just because I'm going for the lowest possible component count you could also make a version that runs off a five volt USB power supply but this one is going to be means just for the excitement of it so I'm going to start off with a capacitive dropper it's a simplest circuitry could use you could also use a resistive power supply but Festivus going to give a modest charge current I meaning around about 10 to 20 milliamps so start off with a 100 nano farad capacitor and a good 1 mega ohm resistor across that one Slayton niggle if I use a quarter watt resistor technically speaking that succeed in treating it commonly gets done it's not ideal maybe I should have used to but I've drawn one no I'll just use one and I'm also going to use resistor to limit the inrush current and also protect the rest the secretary mmm so that's I'm going to choose cheer for the vaults are going to choose about 470 ohms as a compromise it's going to limit the current to about half an amp the maximum peak current ish lesson on penury and that's also at the current I'm talk about it's not going to dissipate too much per old flame so here's the diode rectifier the full bridge rectifier which I'm going to use discrete diodes for and the oprah has plus and minus and I'm going to use capacitor across that hope hook for smoothing that's needed for the detection circuit because you don't want her without the capacitor it's and the type of circuit I'm going to using it would just keep triggered basically like the emergency light on every half cycle if it was there or well every zero crossing point if I didn't have this here it would glow and on a good day because it's quite low current on goes an LED in series to show that the charging current is flowing just because it's a very simple thing to do now comes the automatic turn-on circuit there's one of yous before it's going to be super simple it's going to be an NPN transistor and a diode and the base the transistor is turned on by current flowing through a resistor but it's also tied down to that side of the diode so that when it's charging this effect this side of the transistor the base will effectively be pulled slightly down it would go down to about 0.6 volts below the emitter voltage which will keep that turned off completely but when the power fails then this side of the circuit will go dead and current will flow through that resistor alternate transistor on the LED will have a resistor in Syria that this is the emergency LED so I'm just going to write collector emitter base a value for that resistor there I've got four volts to play with in the battery I want to put a milliamp in there so minus about 0.6 volts of the forward voltage of the base of the transistor nope rumbly tummy quite hungry mmm I'm going to go for about 3.3 K for the LED I'm aiming for about 100 milliamps 4 volts - say the 3 volts the LED 1 volt defeated by 100 milliamps that's gonna be 10 ohms I'm just making this up as I go along I'll tell you what here's another thing we could do let's another resistor across the transistor 1k and that will just leak a bit of current through so even when the power is there the LED will glow very gently just to show it is working as as a safety feature em and then comes the battery no the battery could be a set of three nickel metal hydrides put straight across that and in this case of shown a single cell because I'm going to be making it with this lithium cell a protected cell but the downside of the lithium protected cell is that because it's protected M it will tend to go the protection circuit will turn the current off when it reaches about 4.2 volts this a call from circuit and then you'll have the fool peak means voltage probably rise across the rest the circuitry so I'm going to cap that with a Zener diode to about three point nine volts so there's the Zener diode as inner diode when it conducts as forward bias this like a normal diode as 0.6 volts but when you reverse bias it whatever voltage it's actually designed to avalanche is avalanching to Zener I'll just say the Zener it starts turning on and it caps a voltage down to that level roughly I'm not sure the voltage will be I'll find out when I build it discharged unfortunately when the secretary is so simple that when it discharges of its left for a long period of time the voltage will initially drop quite quickly because it's powering that led but therefore as it the battery voltage gets lowered their current through their lead II will also get lower but even when it's gone below the point at which the LED can be powered current will still flow through this resistor and through the base of the transistor so it could theoretically drag the battery down to 0.6 volts that's not probably damaging to small cells like this they'll usually recover from that but to with a protected cell it will automatically cut off anyway about 2.5 to 3 volts and the most unsuitable this circuit is designed to be made and then installed and the only time it should ever really discharge completely is a when a long-term outages occurred with a nickel metal hydride cells you'd have to use a higher voltage I'd recommend capping it roundabout say 6 volts or something like that 5 volts in fact to allow for the combined voltage of the metal hydride cells being about 1.5 volts each times three is about 4.5 but anyway I'm gonna go and turn this into a circuit board now so I'll be back in a moment so that's a circuit board design done it was a very simple design to do and I designed it on a printed circuit board package called sprint layout I prefer sprint layout because it's not as formal as many of the printed circuit board packages like Eagle it doesn't kind of force you into their preferred way of doing it of doing a schematic and then naming all the nodes and so on and components and how they're all connected it doesn't require that you can literally just drop components on and then just add the track and manually it's ideal for artistic projects and stuff like that so I like it because of its simplicity and this is what I used to design this so no this is no that I want to point though this is an actual size that would be quite big it's much smaller than this to actually create a circuit board out of this what I'm going to do is what I've already done is I've printed out the reverse the image because the the type of material going to be using it works with the negative so I've got this film here this translucent film and this is available on eBay and it's designed for the ink the t-shirt printing industries for making screen prints it's a transparency film that can be inkjet printed on but what's special about it over normal transparency film is that because it's good it's got that milky look to it because it's got a very high-density coating on it and it absorbs a lot of ink vertically into the actual surface so that you end up the very detailed image instead of some materials I've used where you print on diff you could think to down to heavily it just peels off on the surface this one sucks that ink in and it results and it means that if you've been to a photo quality image and I have to say I ran the settings right up to fool absolutely black as possible and then you get a very dense image so to actually do this I tend to print the image off on a piece of paper and because this film is not particularly cheap I don't want to use a fully for she and then just use a tiny bit in the middle so what I do is I mark a little arrow in the bottom that way it came through the printer and then I get a piece of the film and I tape on no note that if it sticks up all your printhead meat catch it you have to be quite careful in the past I've got off with just putting a bit of tape at the bottom and as long as it all sits flat or go through okay but for smaller pieces like this it may actually lift up so I've put a bit of tape of both sides I suppose technically spin you could put tape there as well but there's always a risk that it's going to start making it sort of warp off a bit it's something that will depend on your printer but but when you've run it back through the printer it will print on the exact same area so when I take this off I have my black image ready to actually make the transparency to use in the ultraviolet exposure unit now the material I used to use pre sensitized printed circuit board material but I've no switch to using this dry film material and initially I have to see initially then I got this no just show you a demonstration of how to put some on but in a smaller piece of material and but when I first got this I didn't have any luck with her I bought her and I thought because they supplied it rolled up into a tight scroll and the instructions a clearance they decreased to start off with the instructions said you know pure one layer off put it on the laminate and feed it through a hot laminator and it just didn't work for me it just got all these bubbles and wrinkles that just never worked and I thought maybe it's because it's absorbed humidity but it turned out that it you know it's just a technique you have to get used to using this and the good news is it's actually fairly easy to use once you get the hang of it and you don't need special equipment so start off with for this I recommend making the surface the circuit board wet it's just the easiest way to do it and you'll need I use a scouring pad a standard dishwashing scouring pad with certain Island SCARA and a squeegee the squeegee is a standard felt sighted squeegee for used for putting vinyl on cars and signage this little device is I'll show you this afterwards basically speaking this is very good for cleaning the surface the circuit board removes all the oxide off it without actually going too deep the endless plain pattern in the cover but it's not too bad this is a little water mr. M I'll fix that in another video it's very good it basically bit water and it's for misting your face punt you can put gin and vodka in it as well and it makes strong smells of alcoholic portions I'm going to use it just to make the surface of this wet not too much water just a haze of water over the surface you can also use a spray thing add a little standard standard set trigger type spray this material is a gel with a layer of protective film on both sides doesn't matter which side you take off but to actually prepare it you get better tape and you stick it on one corner standard sellotape and then you turn it over you get another bit and without letting them join together you stick at another corner and when you peel them apart one of the films will give first it doesn't matter which side and you peel the protective clear film off this is where it's actually quite nice to get the other bit of tape off it's sometimes a bit hard it has just come off that's quite good now is that thing still wet have I paused too long let's give it another quick misting there's no harm in that so no put the sticky side down which is the severe and you'll see it's going on here and in the past when I tried putting it on dry as soon as it's stuck if it was any slight warmth at all that was that it was just like you there was no going back with this because there's a layer of moisture it lets you squeeze your hope but note that if you used too much pressure it will not really um if it stretches it causes problems that wants to return to its original shape and I'm going to heat this up to its dink kind of there to a degree but I'm going to heat this up to actually set it and you don't need a laminator for that all you need is a hairdryer which is quite good because most of us have hair dryers so at warning there's going to be noise of a hair dryer and that should be the job done now what I normally do when I put it into the exposure unit you want to get rid of the excess hang over the sides so I'll do that with a pair of scissors the reason for that is it tends to be quite possessive and sticky you also want to leave the other protective layer of film on because if you don't when you put the transparency on it it will try and adhere to the transparency which is not a good result don't worry about slight ripples or distortions in it as long as it's meted down nicely with the board it will not really affect that too much there are general sort of faction purities so very good chance that what's actually appearing on eBay is seconds but having said that it works so no this is a late color now but when you put the transparency over it the disappearance is just stuck onto the thing when you put the transparency over it and you want to put the printed side down the way onto that when you put it into the ultraviolet exposure unit and expose it for a certain length of time which will depend on your equipment it takes about two minutes and main then after that time when you peel it up you'll have a unexposed or actually you know what will I do it right now I'll be back in a moment so that's it been exposed for about two minutes and when you lift it now you'll see that wherever the light has hit it it's gone a dark color it's basically what they call cross-linked I believe is the term they use and it makes it stronger it makes it sort of resistant to the developing solution no the developing a solution is a very simple thing for this particular stuff it's a soda crystals washing soda crystals which are based on sodium carbonate you can buy pure sodium carbonate online or you can go to local supermarket and buy a big bag of washing crystals and it's cost considerably less and when you're ready to actually expel aplace you then have to remove the other layer of the film's so I'm going to get a bit of tape I'll just visitin way easiest way to remove the film and hopefully this isn't gonna peel the thing off completely if I've not put that down absolutely 100% gonna have to be careful with this sometimes there there goes put the tape on and peel it off and it peels off the extra layer at this point the surface is exposed and slightly sticky when you put in the liquid it washes away the late colored stuff and it would depend in there how long musics you know how long it was there how much light actually went through and exposed but if you've got a sloppy transparency I'll play it through a lot of late you're going to have to bounce it off because it can actually see me harden the stuff that's supposed to be coming off and it takes a lot longer for it to dissolve the strength of solution and the temperature is also a factor it's worth experimenting with but generally speaking this will develop half in just a few minutes but you have to put a glove on and just rub it it seemed it's very resilient to being robbed but as it develops a you see sort of swirls coming off the stuff that's a melting away and it really helps to actually move that it's not like some of the other printed circuit board technologists where all you have to do is agitating it just disappears itself this stuff really benefits from even a sponge using a sponge dedicated for Tosh to actually just give it a gentle movement over the surface to get it out particularly that it all holes in the pads another thing that helps is a brush a soft bristle brush and I don't mean I don't mean last tooth brush on that I mean something like a paint brush will help that hurt but I've already developed one of these and etched and drilled it and the result looks like this the circuit board is here so let's say built this now and I want to say that I don't know if the circuit is going to work out I've gone straight to copper here I do not know if this is going to work if it doesn't work I'll still be putting the video up because there some sometimes projects go wrong so here is my little master planner for the components cool and here is a selection of components in the design I allowed for the battery connector then by also load to put a battery on board or on the back soldiers of one watch super flux type led in the back or have battery terminals commute are just a immediate as versatile as possible so let's add start putting components into this and the first things are going to put in are all the components that are fairly low-level to the circuit board so I could fit the 1 megaohm Brown black green resistor in there just form the leads by hand I'm gonna put some diodes and I'm gonna put the air I've got a bit the 470 ki resistor which is yellow violet Brown 4 7 and 1 0 it's the one that limits the inrush current it doesn't have to be a terribly high power resistor because it's not actually dissipating that much per all the diodes are pointing in the same direction I just thought it was a nicer thing to do it that way it was easier to lay the track out with they're not doing that but you know what I thought I'll do that it does look meter and it means there's less chance of getting mistake and putting a diode in the wrong way around so let's get those diodes in there I'll just put the whole line well I really and next is the diode which goes to the emitter of the transistor and keeps the that produces the slight voltage drop for the switch on of the automatic switch on that resistor there is a 3.3 K which is orange orange bread three three and two zeros 3.3 K so let's put that in there then across that I've got the cheating resistor which is the one Kier just likes a little current trickle through the transistor we've a put too many components in at once maybe I'm just being greedy here is there any harm in greed yes when it all screws up and then the 10 ohm resistor the 10 ohm resistor which will be dropping about one volt at 100 milliamps already participating about point 1 watt so that's the resistor for the LED and I'll also put in the Zener diode which is the biblical voltage across the lithium cell or ultimately the nickel metal hydride itself you choose it so fairly neatly out so let's get a bit of tape and stick it across the top of that standard electricians insulation tape nope crappy this this was in a drawer when I arrived at the house it's not actually the best stuff Hank it's a I think it's quite old but it'll do the job I'll just snap that off it feels slightly brittle as older tape gets so let's a get that circuit board bit a bit of tape over I should have checked all the components first but I didn't and let's start soldering them so there's some soda that's a little avalanche happening at the side of the bench here as frequently happens right straighten that lead up so they're all pointing the street it makes it easier if you ever have to remove a component later on and let's start soldering this shouldn't take too long as I'm soldering I just routinely I have habit breathe out gently now I did have a slight issue making this circuit board the slight issue I had was that the pads that were right next to each other because we were very close less they were on a set of chains and spacing notably the LED and the capacitor and what else was at the LED that led and the capacitor yeah there are three of them they had bridged slightly because the material didn't clear out I should have left actually in the developer longer but I didn't I'm paranoid from the old days of using the older type developers that they if you left it in too long it just started stripping everything off the old sodium hydroxide Lee tape ones or even their um sodium metal silicate developers which were used with traditional air the photosensitive laminate so that's looking good that's a half the risk connections are soldered now let's say I move onto the other side as always been soldiering apply the soldiering iron and then the solder onto the preheated pad and lead and that's the way to that's going to result in the best joint never carries solder you know so many people when they start off melt some solder on to and then try and wipe it off on its component that doesn't work and the reason for that is that the slate smoke you get off there will vapor you get off this solder when you're soldering is actually the flux core in the middle of the soda and it's really important because when it comes out it kind of cleans the surfaces and helps meet the solder onto the copper this is also traditional lead tin beer soda I see all sorts of secure mongering going up however if you handle it it makes you die it's bollocks the I know so many people who are like in their eighties who have been using that their whole life and they're like force all this nonsense about lead-based soldiers not harmful to use because it was originally removed to reduction hazardous substances at work where it was to remove it out the working environment and it's given this image that it is that it was removed for some reason that it's like super toxic I've never come across MDS actually eat in this order I mean because it doesn't strike me as being something that would be very nice to eat so that's them all soldered let's crop those leads off and crop them off I'll be using the first pair of cheap old Chinese snips that come to hand actually this is where kadar used Meisner on snips that would have been quite nice because it produces super flat ends really nice I don't see them right there buried under stuff so I'll keep using this excellent right next components I'll put the LED in next so that LED is going in there it sticks down a bit more so probably just solder it by holding it in with my hand while I hold it the solder for those wondering how you sort over this technique of using your fingers so many fingers at once it's just something you pick up as you go along it's not something I deliberately did it's just something that happened when you're working with a particular material or in a particular way a lot you just automatically adapt here's the capacitor that's going to smooth the DC so let's get that in the right way around otherwise it will pop one day I will pop a faster it's okay probably accidentally no this capacitor isn't sitting down so flat as I'd like so what I'll do I'll sort of one lead and that'll check it is sitting properly before I go any further okay so just now sort of that when I'll just reflow the joints slightly and just see if it yeah that's better and they will solder its other connection this capacitor may actually explode if I have this circuit wrong it is completely untested next comes the transistor I chose bc547c for an sister in the UK if you choose something like a 2 + 3 9 or 4 or similar check the pin outs the tenor of this one is a different to be a 2 & 3 904 the best way to find the pin out is to just take that from system number into Google and do an image search and you'll find lots of images of the pin out normally I'd sort of just one lead and then make sure it was straight but I didn't list our just bludgeoned in how do we bit more solder on to that sweet there we go a crop those leads and that just leaves one component well it needs the LED in that lithium cell so here's the X 2 capacitor going in its own different special pasta rated for means use the circuit will actually act in some small way as a small interference suppressor as well albeit there will be a diodes in the circuit which are supposed to make noise when turning on but can't ever really notice that some designs have local pastors across each diode and a bridge rectifier but they tend to be very very portion expensive designs that is almost it do I just connect everything now yeah let's put the LED in let's make sure I get the LED the right way around so the LED is going like this I did make a slight boo-boo I thought I could sort the LED on the circuit board direct and there thought forgot that it would be solder in the back and then it had to put insulation over these little pads tracks and tracks that came out there because otherwise the metal in the back would short them out didn't think about that that's okay I'd rather the LED was mounted remotely anyway said Clive trying to make the best of the situation Sabri I may burn my fingers and the holding those leads in and sometimes when you do that if you're touching the metal the other side it burns just a lit that's fine and that just leaves the battery um now another thing there's a few point naval Zener across here you can't just stick a fully charged lithium cell on because it would actually it's bult achoo potentially behind the zener and cause sudden current flow it could actually if it was high enough could blow the Zener and make it go dead short circuit that would be even more exciting so let's flow some air solder onto these not sure I'm gonna do the battery I could do it Cheney easy style just put a big double-sided sticky pad in the back so battery negative well that's ten the leads of the battery before flowing the one this batteries are modest charging it it's obscure protection circuit so our short leads to get it won't be too dramatic so this is marked battery positive two there what's the worst could happen the battery could explode excellent the LED is just let because it's now being powered from the emergency battery that's quite sweet I like that already it's quite bright oh that's lighting the room that is nice okey-dokey now we just need to stick the mains in and see if it explodes in a ball of flame selects a grabber means lead and see what happens here's one I prepared earlier I did actually allow at the end I allowed for a protein at terminal block and should have a terminal block in it would be really professional of a stock of eternal block and would it just be a waste of terminal block let's stick about terminal so I need something to cut that I need my preferred childer where is my preferred ship my ship is nowhere to be seen here oh I really have all there is there's my preferred ship terminal block this eternal block is so expensive it's rising clamp terminal block and you cut it down to size like this and snap so it's not going to fit in there yes it is this also defeats the fact I did allow two holes for a moment in a space or maybe I don't want to do this then no let's do it because I can't watch TV at home later so let's carefully flip that over and solder that in this is where it's bigger joints so I could use thicker sort of but I'm just going to use the same size and just flow a lot more on these air terminals are just really good quality I've looked at the cheaper stuff off eBay but you know London comped the same standard as this stuff the rising clamp makes it really very good I used to use that normal growing controller to the triac mounts so no let's connect live in here just going to work theorist you want to pair this up it shouldn't go bang that's a good sign of it doesn't go bang and the red LED should light and the LED no proof should suddenly drop in intensity greatly so let's see what happens already this is fear could use the hockey tester as well this is just gonna ping everywhere isn't it oh because the lead is so heavy right okay keep in mind this will be alive it means voltage amigo bein the red LED is lit that LEDs drop down to lower current it's all lookin very good it's looking like it's actually working and then when the / feels hold on I'm gonna struggle there we go it's working it's working a treat I sound surprised I shouldn't sound surprised kind of know what I'm doing kind of you know let's measure the charge current technically speaking I can measure the charge current using the hot pee meter and let's add let's use this I'm not sure well this is going to work or actually you know what I can't zero out because it's no discharging into the LED ah right okay I'd have to actually break into that circuit to actually get the proper currents because I can't no I can bring in the hoppy meter and we can see how much currents flowing on the AC site which will be a rough indication of what's flowing on the the general charge current so I'm going to plug this adapter in and then this into here oh no not good I've just plugged the hook into itself that wasn't too clever our that right let's say plug this in oh because it's so far the hop he's not going to read it do you know why it's very little current and B it's hair the power factor is like pretty awful because it is just as simple as a very low current purely capacitive dropper what can I use to test this then and what can I use to test it I could use I can unplug this I could use this amico meter to measure the AC current input so let's say I set this to it's super low current range and all plug it's that's currently displaying oh it's only seven millions this tiny isn't it I could have actually gone higher that's fine though so it's charging the circuit at seven milliamps the little red LED will be lit at seven milliamps a fraction that current will be going to make the mean LED glow in the output and it means that you know it's not the sort of thing that if you had a merchant if you had a power cut you wouldn't want to rely on it to instantly charge like the standard emergency lighting specification says that the whole system has to charge fully in 24 hours but would actually happen after 24 hours of this one is it would put in 7 milliamps as some although that would be roughly about 14 milliamps for an error this thing is better just left on sitting charging for you know weeks before it will really gain the fook that could be FERPA changed for a 229 Africa pastor but as it is this thing will just keep topping that battery up on what I wonder what the open circuit voltage is the way to think that out is to disorder that battery and actually measure the voltage while thats a open circuit so I'm going to take that off I've just actually remembered that I just turned to soldier and often there but there's still enough heat on that I'll turn the sodium arm back on make sure I don't shoot that finger and that's that measure the voltage across the Zener while this is plugged in so it's doing the it's going through the motions if it is charging there in reality the Zener is now shunting all their current and the voltage across the Zener is keep in mind the circuit is alive it means voltage the voltage across the Zener is 2.8 name that's not really what I wanted why is it so low oh that's disappointing why is the voltage across the Zener so low is it am I losing too much current across the the discharge resistor here technically speak about three milliamps is actually flowing through that 1k resistor to light the LED is that right right okay so in that sense maybe the answer here is to use a higher voltage Zener thus that's annoying I'm gonna have to do a little experiment here I have discovered a flaw in my design I'm gonna snip Zener I'm gonna measure the open circuit voltage across the is this a good idea no it's not a good idea because the voltage can theoretically up but it's so limited that a lotta over going through that resistor now there and lighting the LED the voltage is still only going up to about 6 volts oh that may mean that my biggest problem here is that little leakage because this isn't supplying much current that one key resistor for the testing the LED may actually be leaking a bit too much and actually stopping it going up high enough that's a bit disappointing what if I sort of that Zener again making sure this is unplugged what if I solder the Zener and I snip that 1k resistor I was expecting more current I have to say the temptation is to actually step that up to 220 nanofarad capacitor I don't think that would really cause much harm at all so let's get rid of the 1k resistor now so there's no not going to be any leakage current through that and the voltage across the Zener is now still only about 3 volts I'm guessing that the Zener must be turning on a lower current the 3.9 volt it's rated at it must be the serve that when it's a fairly high current it's passing oh that's a bit disappointing how can I test that how can I test that I could test that with the power supply right one more I'm just going to actually check something heard something I wasn't really expecting there I used at one point three watt Zener diode I mean that was excessively above what's required even with this new Zener diode a 500 milliwatts one the maximum dissipation is something that a tenth of its rating is 50 milliwatts but the one point three what Zener diode had what's called a high zener current it's like higher than 100 milliamps it'll start conducting well before the point it reaches its actual stated Zener voltage so it after passing literally hundreds of millions before it reached the three point navels this Zener diode is actually a five point one volt Zener diode and it has 500 milliliter and it's only a senior current of five milliamps which is more than enough but I have changed the extra capacitor it's now passing well in this case it's charging the lithium silks of Mitra and Sears that now at 11 point 6 milliamps and if I measure across the Zener at the moment it's gonna measure the cell voltage which is 3.7 volts if I disconnect the cell so the Zener is no shunting the whole suppliers if the seller disconnected it's a five point one volts you know and it's measuring five point one volts dead-on that's very accurate it's pretty good so that has resolved all the problems and the one key resistor is back in Citra as well so am yeah pretty good it does no work completely as desired the fact of use of 5.1 volt Zener though does require a protected lithium cell that's no great deal was planned to protected lithium cells think of that hold old Nokia lithium cells knocking about and it is doing exactly as desired now when you unplug it the mean LED comes on at full brightness and the it does late at 4.2 volts that the fuel lithium cell charge and it will later round about 100 milliamps as the current goes down the voltage goes down it the current will decrease now the one thing I'm going to have to try and feint is a nice low current I still like the idea of capping the voltage below the 4.2 Volt of the Zener of the lithium cell so I'll keep an eye out for a and small three point nine volts you know with a lower Zener current and that should resolve the problem but I would say that now have done this there everything's been resolved in its a successor is a completely fully autonomous means powered emergency light complete with a charging indicator and a lamp check and of course the function that we're in the para fills that LED is going up to full intensity and will steal it for a probably quite some time because of that thing with that as the voltage drops the current will dropped so I'd say after those manor nickels at the beginning it's a success I'd say there's a good result

Channel: bigclivedotcom

Views: 165,515

Keywords: LED, emergency, light, simple, cheap, capacitive, dropper, lithium, nimh, nicd, low, power, rechargeable, automatic, simplest, protected, protection, live, x2, capacitor

Id: RuFGBkYMKpk

Length: 43min 2sec (2582 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 01 2017