This is the last video in an 8 part
series about my new woodworking workbench fitted with a bench table saw and a router table A few months ago when I made the first drafts for this project in my head, I thought of a robust workbench to work on that could be equipped with a bench table saw and a router table apart from all that I had a versatile
compact and portable design in mind especially aimed at small workshops I think in the end I managed to blend all those features into a single elegant piece of furniture when it's against the wall with the side and outfeed folding tables closed the bench is 70 centimeters deep and 180 centimeters long its height is the standard for these
work tables around 90 centimeters the design allows for relatively easy resizing of these measurements if you have some knowledge in this area if you're interested I'll post
a link in the description of the video to an article on my website explaining all the necessary steps to modify it I've used the same construction by addition of parts method I used in my other woodworking workbenches this means I glued plywood pieces together to achieve the
required thickness making it easier to build and requiring fewer tools I've used hard birch plywood for the frames and inner cabinets and soft popular plywood for the drawers plywood will make this bench very stable and incredibly durable I've installed some retractable leveling casters which I think are the perfect complement for this bench they'll let me move the bench around the workshop and lock it in place when necessary as well as leveling it if the
floor is in poor condition I've made a wrench to adjust these casters more easily by turning a gear I can raise and lower a rubber leg to lock the caster and avoid unwanted movement while working on the bench which can happen with other widely
used wheels with a food operated break this is what the bench looks like from
the back and before opening the folding tables I've designed the side table and sliding
carriage with a little more depth on the workbench to leave them flush with the
back folding table when closed I've installed a sliding
carriage to the left of the saw to use it I only have to remove
the four screws that are locking it and attach this aluminum fence
using the two T-track profiles in these clips from a previous video, episode 2 in the series, you can see it in operation this carriage will be perfect for
cutting relatively large work pieces it will also let me cut pieces at an
angle and hold them down with clamps to cut deeper pieces I came up with a
system involving a drawer with slides installed underneath the carriage and a piece of plywood acting as a stop. I've designed it in this way in order to not have anything jutting out from the front of the bench when I'm not using the sliding carriage it would have been easier to install linear bearings on some kind of support sticking out from the front of the bench but if I were to do it that way I don't think this workbench would have been as comfortable to work on and would have taken up more space when storing it against the wall with this setup I can cut work pieces up to 73 centimeters in depth the fence is extendable allowing me to cut longer work pieces up to 165 centimeters this is the side folding table of
the portable table saw workbench as shown in episode 5, to open the side table
all you need to do is unlock the two box clasp clamps installed below the bench and place
the stops that access support for the table this table will let me do various jobs both when open and when closed thanks to the T-track profiles when it's closed I can prop work pieces to make biscuit joints and other kinds of joints once open I can use it to expand
the bench's work surface or to cut longer pieces with the sliding carriage the other great advantage of using the carriage like this is that the work pieces are the same
height as the entire surface of the bench as well as the ability to use
the table saw fence as a stop here I can also use the hold fast clamps I made for the other woodworking workbenches along with the clamps for the T-track profile they will allow me to hold down work pieces on the front of the bench in several kinds of jobs in episode six of this series of videos, I showed you how to make and use the outfeed folding table in the back I used folding shelf brackets the kind used to make these kinds of tables I think they're the perfect fitting for
what I was looking for in this folding table a table that can be opened and
closed in a fast and easy way which is also sturdy and can hold the
weight of the work pieces on the outfeed this table will also let me increase
the work surface of the router table in order to remove the saw fence, I have to close the outfeed folding table which I'm not too satisfied with as I said in a previous video, I'm planning on making a new fence to use with this mobile workbench more robust more precise
and with a larger support surface on the in feed and outfeed than the fence that came with this bench table saw I've thought of screwing an aluminum profile to the three legs in the front of the bench onto which I can lock the new fence now I'll show you the blast gate box I made for use with this saw station it has a 100 millimeter outlet to connect the main hose in the lower part and two secondary 63 millimeter hoses with blast gates one of which is fitted with a hose cuff to connect it to the table saw and another that goes straight into the router table recess in order to attach it, I have to lift the outfeed folding table I've designed it like this so that I can attach it to the workbench when I want to use it and then remove it so that the workbench takes up less space when stored against the wall the table saw hose can be connected
to the router table fence when necessary I've installed the router table
on the right side of the saw the router is inside a cabinet with a door this way I've managed to reduce the noise it makes while in operation. I've installed a switch with an emergency stop to activate it in order to hold and lift the router I've used a fixed router base which came screwed to an insert plate but I'm planning on making a new and improved router lift with this router table and its fence
I can make all kinds of milling jobs in these shots from episode number three of this series, you can see some of the tests I made to show off how it works, with the fence the miter gauge or the feather boards I can use the bench table saw fence to
accurately adjust the router table fence under the router I installed a couple of drawers that slide on some grooves I made on the sides of the cabinet this way 'll be able to keep my bits and accessories handy all the time I've sorted the bits by diameter to locate them more easily and I've put them in small individual boxes to avoid damaging them if i ever want to take them with me to work outside the shop in the bottom drawer I put some
router accessories and a set of bits this bench's drawers will be great to
keep all of my most frequently used table saw accessories handy in the bottom left I've put the router plunge base the featherboards and the bush sticks to use with the table saw or the router table in the next drawer I put other router table accessories in the top drawer I put measuring tools such as the dial indicator to set up the table saw or the digital angle finder the advantage of making drawers like this without slides is that I can remove them from the workbench and carry the bits around the workshop besides saving weight and money by not buying the slides logically they don't open as smoothly as if I had used drawer slides but it's a matter of priorities it's easy to install some slides if you prefer you'll only have to subtract the
thickness of the slides to the drawers in the gap underneath the bench table saw I can save more accessories such as the miter gauge and of course the table saw sled this sled will allow me to
do almost all kinds of cuts I've designed it with a zero clearance so that I can use it with almost all blade types and sizes these are shots from the video I posted a few days ago in my channel to show off the sled I've also made some new zero clearance for the bench table saw which will let me achieve more precise cuts without
the typical splintering on the outfeed the zero clearance that came with it was unreliable and I couldn't adjust it properly I've used the same board that I made the bench tops with it's a kind of MDF that's harder and more compact if you'd like to see how I made these zero clearance inserts let me know in the comments for this video, and I'll try to post a new video showing that I'm going to run a few tests to see how to use them both with a normal blade and with a daddo blade I think this is one of the few table saws
that come with an arbor that can be used with daddo blades in Europe if you are interested to know more about these kinds of blades and the regulations covering their use I could also explain that in a new video this is the 3D SketchUp file included
in the plans for sale on my website in this animation you can clearly see all the setups for this workbench on my website I have an article where I explain how to modify this design to use it with other bench table saws I'll also leave a link in
the description of this video this design could even be used
for an inverted circular saw or a new homemade table saw with
a belt and an induction motor now I'll show you how to make the drawers and other accessories for the mobile workbench which haven't been made yet first I'll cut all the required material for the drawer side, from a piece of soft popular plywood I'll use the table saw sled to cut all the pieces lengthwise with a column drill and a countersink
drill bit I'll make the necessary holes to put the drawers together I'll also use a plywood strip as a jig. I've marked the position of the pieces with a pencil this will help me speed up the process with the daddo blade and the table saw sled, I'll make some grooves to install the drawer dividers now that it's more convenient I'm going to sand down the upper edges of the side pieces to put the drawers together, I'll use an old jig I made some time ago, which will make these steps easier I'll use the holes I drilled a moment
ago, as a guide to drill the rest of the pieces I apply some wood glue and place the screws from another popular board
I'll cut the drawer box bottom and from another four millimeter beach veneer MDF, I'll cut the drawer faces I'm going to mark their position so
that the wood grain is consistent I apply some glue and sprinkle some sea salt to prevent the pieces from moving when tightening the clamps I'll glue them to the drawers in twos this is completely optional but if you wish to glue these ornamental faces on the drawers you only need to subtract their thickness to the
sides of the drawers to make them the same length I've taken apart the drawer that acts
as a support for the sliding carriage so that I can also glue this MDF drawer face to it I finished sanding all the drawer parts
and after applying a couple of coats of water-based varnish, I can finally fasten the drawer bottoms with screws first I drill the position of the screws in one of the bottoms which I'll use as a template to drill the rest I'll use a piece of plywood as a jig to
center the bottom and screw it to the drawer I've used another small jig to correctly drill the position of the handles on the front of the drawer from another eight millimeter plywood board I had in my workshop I'll cut the drawer dividers I pre-marked the position of the rabbet that will allow us to place them in the drawers and cut it with the table saw and several runs I've also cut the piece that goes
under the router bit set in my shop the last step is to cut and place the
shelf underneath the table saw sled after making the necessary rabbits I cut it down the middle so I can put it in place that's all for today see you soon you
