DIY LED COVING + PICTURE RAIL - On A Budget!

my brother is obsessed with lights he always has been I think he must have been a moth in a previous life and he's in the process of redecorating his living room at the moment he wants to do something wacky with LED lights around his coing and also he wants to fit a picture rail so that's what I'm going to help him with today I brought along all the tools and materials that I thought we would need to do the job plus some pieces of 18 mm MDF that I'd ripped down on the table saw back in the workshop I'll explain what those are for later my brother had already stripped all the old coing off and we're going to start by adding the picture rail which my brother wanted to be in line with the top of the door aret trfe unfortunately the tripod wouldn't allow me to get my laser level high enough but the laser level has a magnet on the back where the hell did you pull that tip from these are the MDF picture rail moldings I'll go through the costs and where we got all of the materials later in the video the first piece can just just be cut to fit and I brought my mitur along for this job hello we're using an instant grab adhesive and I like to push it on pull it off and then push it on again as a bit of air seems to help activate the glue and with that in place I set the laser level to the bottom of the rail just because it's easier to see when lining up the rest of the pieces I can then but up the next piece so that it's sitting level and Scribe the shape of the molding onto the end and I get it cut out with the co poing saw then I need to cut an external miter this is the only external miter in the whole room the rest are all internal to complete the external miter The Mating piece gets a bit of miter adhesive which is a CA glue and it comes with an activator spray to set it really quickly for the longer lengths I knocked in some pins just to make sure that it doesn't sag before the glue sets I left these protruding so that they can be easily removed and holes filled later the only other obstacle we had to work around are these two heating pipes which we'd unclipped from the wall so I'm marking up the location of these and a round file would have been ideal for this job but we didn't have one so I ended up nibbling away at it with the jigs which left a rough finish but once sanded and painted it'll be fine and I'm going to add a mited return detail to finish the end of the rail C on the longest wall we needed to join some lengths together and we did that with a in 45° cut just because it looks cleaner than a 90° butt joint would it was a pretty quick job and after a quick spot of lunch we could start thinking about the lighting and coing with my compass set to 90 mm I scribed a line all the way around the room onto the ceiling and that's because the coing will be using measures 90 mm in depth and width initially my brother had accidentally bought the wrong size coing because he didn't realize that the measurements given on the website are diagonal from corner to corner so we had to return the stuff listed as 100 mm coing and get the larger 127 mm instead and the stuff that we are using is poyene which is really lightweight making it easier to glue in place once all the 90 mm guidelines had been scribed I can start using the 18 mm MDF strips I'm going to glue these in place to the ceiling so that that the front edge of the MDF meets that 90 mm line I used a few 18 gauge brad nails just to help hold it in place until the glue cures and this MDF is going to do two things firstly it's going to give us something to secure this stuff to this is aluminium c channel which comes with a diffuser that fits onto the front and I'll leave links to this stuff in the description box below this measures 18 mm wide so the same thick as the 18 mm MDF that it's going to be fixed to we just need a couple of pilot holes through the back of the aluminium channel so that we can screw it in place s and with the channels fitted my brother started adding the LED lighting which has a self- adhesive backing so what are these LEDs called cob Co yeah and what's special about them they're pretty they're pretty there's no dot so it's kind of like a seamless light yeah I'm using a decorator's caul just to fill any small gaps between the aluminium Channel and ceiling which will help make it all look seamless then the diffuser can be fitted to hide the LEDs and help disperse the light evenly the second reason for those MDF strips is that it'll give us more glue surface to secure the coing to this is the first piece going in and here is Keith back at home to explain how we cut it cutting coing isn't as easy as you might think we made a few mistakes there were occasions where we ended up cutting external Corners rather than internal for example we used the mitur to cut the coing and the first thing I did was to mark up 90 mm onto both the fence and the bed of the soore so if we pretend this curved piece of card is a piece of coing that enables me to line up the coing with those marks before making a cut if the coing is not lined up with those marks and you angle the saw to 45° your cut is going to be skewed slightly and you'll end up with nasty gaps to fill when it comes to fitting the coing not that that's a huge problem though because this is one of those jobs where Perfection really isn't necessary by the time you fill or caulk any gaps and paint it all in no one is ever going to know providing you do it neatly of course anyway here's the method that we figured out to cut an internal miter for this piece on the left in the diagram you're going to want to flip the coing upside down and by the way all of the cuts that we're going to be making for both internal and external miters will have the coing placed on the bed of the soore so that the arc is bending in towards the fence as you can see here place it to the right of the blade pivot 45° to the right make the cut and then when you flip it back over it'll be perfect now for the piece on the right flip the coing upside down again place it to the left of the blade and pivot 45° to the left for external miters for the piece on the left place it upside down and to the right of the blade pivot to the left and make the cut and for the piece on the right work piece upside down again to the left of the blade pivot to the right I couldn't find anything online to explain this in a way that I thought was easy to understand so hopefully you'll find this useful next time you need to cut some coing on the mitur other good options include the miter guide blocks or cutting jigs that allow you to cut the coing with a hand saw but we didn't have either of those to hand my best advice was be to buy a bit more than you think you might need and don't give yourself a hard time if you don't get it right first time those pesky pipes needed some cutouts in the coing too and once all the coing was fitted more culking to fill the gaps I also did the gap between the aluminium Channel and the coing and then wiped away any excess with a damp clo off so here's how I left things that evening and a few days later this is how it looked once all [Music] decorated they went for a pretty bold color scheme yes that's satin black but the room has loads of natural light and I think it ended up looking nice the pictor and adhesive came to 78 the coing ad iive and decorators cult came to about £38 and the LED lighting and aluminium trunking came to £137 so in total around £253 which is [Music] $37

Channel: Rag 'n' Bone Brown

Views: 153,318

Keywords: woodworking, uk, british, youtuber, keith, salvaged, reclaimed, wood, make, making, how, to, ragnbonebrown, diy, rag n bone brown, rag & bone brown, led coving, lighting coving, coving lights, cove lighting, decoration, home, home decor, led lights, cob led, light up coving, lighting, home lighting, home decoration, redecorating, redecoration, picture rail, how to cut coving on mitre saw, coving cut, how to cut coving, mitre saw coving

Id: 5AbOEORsapQ

Length: 8min 52sec (532 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 10 2023