DIY Arrow Saw - As good as shop bought?..

welcome to the robinhood archery video channel and welcome to a rare glimpse into the robin at archery workshop today's theme is it possible to build a diy carbon shaft cutting jig that's as good as those you can buy on the market stick around and we'll find out right i'm going to jump ahead here and say the answer is yes almost and plenty good enough for the vast majority of people's usage i've been using this particular jig which i'm going to show you in just a moment for several years i must check back when i did my original photograph so i'll check it's probably about three years something like that um and i produce arrows on a professional basis so i need accurate consistent and quick cuts so without further ado let's take a look at what we're looking at today oh by the way this is not a build-along i'm going to be showing you my jig and just a few pointers how you could make your own it's not a build-along or anything like that okay so just to clarify that one for the simple reason i don't want to rip my own jig to bits just for the sake of the video so okay can we go along on that basis fantastic let's get started right this is going to be quite tricky showing you all this so please bear with me first of all we need a power source something like the ubiquitous dremel now i haven't used a dremel multi-tool here i've used one of these which i picked up on uh i must check back amazon or ebay i think it was amazon for around about 20 euros again i'll check that and if they're still selling these i'll actually put the link in the comment section below but there are you don't have to get this specific one there are so many on the market which are almost identical in fact actually to all intents and purposes identical to this the moldings on the case the specifications everything okay so that's the first thing we need and i've gone for the version which has got one of these rats tails on it like an extension flexi extension okay so that's number one that we need number two that we need for a cutting jig is to have the disc the cutting disc at 90 degrees to where the shaft is going to sit okay very important that one obviously so that you cut the ends of your shafts nice and square the next thing we need is a guide rail again this is the one that your shaft sits along which will actually be 90 degrees to the cutting disc okay so number one a means of power in the disc number two the disc set at 90 degrees to the number three which is the side rail okay and i'll show you these in a little bit more detail as we go and the final one we need is up this end and this is a stop block this is so that you can set your distance and have something for your shaft to actually butt up against so if you're cutting a set of 12 shafts for instance they're all going to come out at the identical length okay so let's take a look at some of these points in a little bit more detail right folks i hope you can see this um a little bit clearer now you can see i've got the rat's tail this flexi extension coming from the power source and it's been attached to a block and i'll talk about the base last and i've attached this the end piece of this rat's tail with these rubberized p clips now no idea what size these are and you would need to check what the dimensions of your own rat's tail is so that you can purchase the right ones from the hardware store again this is not a build along these are just pointers to get you going in the right direction for your own project all right let's look at the second position so here we can see my guide rail and it's very much the important part of this build that that cutting disc up here and this side rail sit at 90 degrees to each other now then a couple of points on this side rail i've actually mounted it on slots behind this phillips head screw here is a slot not just a hole and i've got the same at the other end here which is just behind the rat's tail okay now that gives me lateral movement so i can set the depth of cut okay so that the cutting wheel up here is cutting just through the wall of the carbon shaft very important and also it allows me a little bit of fine tuning to make sure that i can get that disc set at 100 square ie 90 degrees all right and that you can do that you can pretty much get it almost there with these when you're fitting these p clips to the base and then you can fine tune it via those slots on here and one other thing with regard to this side piece i mean you can use any material you like you can use wood or plastic or what have you as long as it's robust enough i've gone for some small aluminium angle it's about what is it about half inch by half inch 12 mil by 12 mil something like that i'm not sure it's just a piece i had knocking around but i found this the easiest to work with as well um but of course it's a hard surface so you don't want any scratches on your shaft so what i've done i've got some of this fluffy side of the velcro and self-adhesive just one at the front one at the back so that when the shaft sits onto there and you turn it it's not going to get scratched okay let's look up there at the stop block okay here you can see the stop block now i've made a right angle up from the base again i'll talk about all the base last and that is so that i can move the block up and down and then clamp it in the right position all right now when i first made my jig it wasn't quite as refined as this i just had a oh a bit of a wood coming up here from the base of the back stop as it were and i just used to use a g-clamp on there and clamp it in position actually on that side okay so it doesn't need to be quite as involved as this one is the main components are that you've got something 90 degrees here to the shaft that it can sit against okay when you're cutting it's not going to move about and some way that you can actually clamp it to the base theoretically you could even clamp from there underneath like that doesn't have to be very complicated whatsoever this sledge i've actually gone a little bit further i've installed a tape on here which again is slotted both ends so i can adjust it i've gone a bit crazy with the construction here and let me get the camera there we go and you can see this kind of toggle clamp i've got there which makes things a lot easier for me but then i am doing a lot of arrows on this rig okay so that's the main components other than the wooden construction that i've done underneath all right so let's take a look at that next okay folks let's take a look at the under construction tell you what i used for this this is actually an old bedstead my daughter's bed frame that i've cut up right i've got a quite a robust base on there it doesn't really need to be this chunky the most important thing is obviously the length most arrows come in 32 inch so theoretically it doesn't need to be any longer than that but you could like myself have situations where you're cutting down longer arrows that you can get arrows that are 34 inch even 36 inch i'm sure possibly even longer for special applications so the base i've actually made it's around about 92 centimeters which is a pop approximately three feet okay let's start in reverse order to what we did the components in all right let me take this sledge office just show you that a little bit in detail again it doesn't need to be this complicated you can just take this part and and clamp it to the base it doesn't need to be this flash okay it's entirely up to you right back to the base so what i've done is i've taken another piece of this bedstead and i've screwed it in nice and securely to give me something to clamp my distance sledge onto nothing complicated in that whatsoever you might be able to see here i've actually screwed the base down onto my workbench as well just to make it nice and steady and stable okay now i've got enough run on here on this length to go from uh 35 inches i believe it is um possibly even a bit more and it comes down to 24 inches so quite a range of cut i could do there in the worst case scenario if i had a special project i could take this out it's held in with a couple of screws on the back a couple of good screws which come nearly all the way through but i could take that off and either lengthen it or bring it this way if i had a particularly special project i was doing but for the most part that's going to cover your needs 35 inch down to about 24 okay so next along the base let's see if we can just zoom in here a little bit yes here we are so here i've got my first mounting block for the side rail and then i've got another mounting block which holds the front of the side rail and the head of the rat's tail okay now i've mounted my rat's tail in board okay you see a lot of these designs where it's the other way around and the rat's tail is is poking out of the back or the front depending on which way you're looking at it of the design i've brought mine in board just because it makes it a little bit more compact okay it's actually all within the length of the base and this is why i've left this gap i've not done a continual block to mount the side rail to i've left a gap underneath and that's so that the rat tail can slip underneath and away to wherever you want to mount your power unit you can go up that way if you wanted to but i've decided to hang mine on my cupboard like that okay so that's why i've got this gap here that's pretty much it for the base fairly fairly simple i've no idea what dimension this is and i have no idea what dimension this is width is the same as the base and i've got a little bit of height on it let's have a look what height i've actually got two and a half centimeters high here now you don't have to have this if you're just doing bare shafts it doesn't really need to be that high but and here's a good tip for you let's go back down the other end and have a look at my sled the distance sled with this one inch high here this 25 cent of uh sorry 25 millimeters and this kind of distance here imagine you had an arrow with a knock on okay it's going to sit about there you have enough distance here for most fletching to sit whilst you cut a shaft i hope that kind of makes sense i don't think i've got a knock with me no i haven't got a knock with me at the moment and if that had a knock it's going to sit about that far away from the backstop so your fletching's going to sit about here you can turn your shaft to your heart's content and the fletching has enough distance around it so that you don't um disturb anything okay right next thing let's see it in operation right one word on safety folks when you're cutting carbon fiber the dust is nasty stuff if this gets into your lungs it's not good at all have the appropriate mask when you're cutting carbon fiber okay i'll put a closer picture up on the screen now and you can see the specification on there i think this is an old mask so it's a little bit blurred but i think it's ffp3 but do a little bit of research before you do any cutting okay let's cut a shaft and we can show you how this thing works [Music] hmm [Music] hmm all right so as we can see it's fast and a clean cut there's no fraying on there whatsoever now here's another tip for you use the right cutting discs i think a lot of people make the mistake of thinking they need a toothed blade that's not the case at all if you can make that work good on you but i certainly couldn't i've used these um they're like they're a cutting disc and i've gone for the proper dremel ones um i'll put a picture up on the screen now so you can get a closer view um it's like a carbide type cutting disc i believe they're aluminium oxide but these are carbon uh sorry not carbon fiber reinforced they're fiberglass reinforced so they're not going to fly apart or anything like that but that disc has been on there for over a year so you're going to get good usage out of it and as i say i cut a lot of shafts all right so that's pretty much it it's consistent it's fast makes a heck of a noise i do wear um ear protection as well when i'm doing a lot of shafts and it's cheap to make i i bought the um this thing as i said for about 20 bucks everything else is made from scrap material that i had lying around the workshop i'm guessing if you have to buy everything wow 20 for that five bucks for the wood and screws and stuff like that certainly under 30 euros all right that that's that's nothing for something that's going to last you a long long time that's it for today again it's not a build-along if you want some more information please let me know in the comments and i'll try and answer it that way but this is just to get you thinking about what is possible for very low cost and something that's going to be very efficient at the end of the day okay i hope you've enjoyed this i think it's number four of the diy uh videos that i've done um please feel free to feel free to subscribe to the to the channel um it does mean a lot it's not a monetized channel but i like to see um what you guys are following and what you're liking and all the rest of it okay so i can produce some more content and on that i must apologize to my subscribers i don't post often enough so yeah apologies for that i will try and do more videos in the future okay folks carbon fiber cutting jig for pennies that works almost as good as the real thing that's me over and out for another video catch you later guys

Channel: Robin Hood Archery

Views: 29,387

Keywords: 3Darchery, bogenschießen, traditionelarchery, traditionellesbogenschießen, archerylife, instinctivearchery, archery, archer, arrows, cresting, crested, handpainted, traditionalarchery, longbow, recurve, elb, englishlongbow, fletching, arrow saw, shaft saw

Id: Dl3LzPoVtbc

Length: 19min 32sec (1172 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 18 2020