Dirt Oval Kart Setup for Beginners

hi welcome to turn left Motorsports second technical talk here we have Austin Hall it's going to help us go through the setup on a go-kart first let's take a quick pause talk about setup sheets now most math factors for offset carts have their setup sheets readily available online here we're looking at all the PRC carts that exist even all the way down to Banshee which was made in the 90s most manufacturers have all this stuff readily available online and I highly encourage you to go find your cart setup sheet before you get started as you can see PRC Millennium charger and ultramax all have their setup information on their websites if you aren't finding the information you need just try to contact whoever made your car uh so far anyone that we've contacted for cart setup information has been very helpful the numbers and setup that we're going to put in this cart today are for our track apartment Motorsports Park so they're going to vary from What ultramax suggests that's walk us through the highlights what we're going to look at today okay so most of the adjustment that you're going to find on the offset carts for dirt are going to be in your blocks up front here you're going to have your caster which is all these numbers here your camber is going to be in and out uh right to left on these pieces then you'll have your toe which is adjustable by this tie rod here I don't know if anyone really pays attention that much to it but we don't really pay too much attention to it but the Ackerman basically is from the center point of this upper joint to the center of the tie rod on each side I usually run them straight up there's a little bit of wheel wheel base adjustment on on these ones just because they're newer they have pins down in the center down here that can move forward and back and up and down the rears of these These are clamshell Styles so they don't have the actual hangers that you'll see on a lot of cards but you can change the pill blocks back here to adjust for rear steer front and back or up and down we're gonna start set up with the front end geometry in order to do so we're gonna first pull the wheel and hub assembly just to get them out of the way and to expose the spindles go to set your camber and Caster usually I like to use one of these angle finders that you can get at hardware stores or Lowe's or Home Depot something like that you really don't need the real fancy camera Caster tools um unless you really want one but usually what I do is I come back here to the frame and try to find a seat bar or something that goes across side to side and you'll see that our ground underneath this cart is about a half a degree off so what I'll do is I'll hit the zero so then we make sure that our number we're starting with is zero and then we'll come up here and to get our Caster measurements we'll just throw this right on here and it's showing 0.25 and if you tip this way it's going the other way so what we need to do is we need to add more camber into this side by pulling this high that way so right there it's showing 0.50 so what I'll do is I'll just loosen up the inside nut a little bit and tighten up the outside and bring us across that threshold of zero eventually and for a left front I'm usually looking for anywhere between zero and a half a degree half a degree is usually pretty good but it will all depend on the type of track that you're running so for this one here we're just gonna shoot for anywhere between one and a half and two degrees for the bigger tracks that have more banking you're going to want more Timbre and for the smaller tracks that have less banking you're going to want less camber alright so now that we have that adjusted we'll just put our safety pin back in we're looking at about 1.25 for this track the corners are fairly flat so by using less camber you take the right front tire out of the track less and it allows you to rotate through the middle of the corner all right so now we're gonna do some Ackerman adjusting a lot of times on these carts you'll come into a setup where there there will be three different holes through here so I'll pull this one off so we can get a good look at it foreign like that where it's got three slotted holes so basically by moving the bolt to the front hole you get quicker steering activation and by moving it to the rear hole you get slower steering activation now on tracks that we run most of the time we run both sides in the center hole there is such thing as adjusting Ackerman to get the cart to do different things but without going into too much detail by getting it to be really even you get your Caster sweep on both sides to be very even and then you come over here this one was slow on the left side fast on the right side so that would make four a cart that would not get into the corner very good but it would get through the middle pretty good so with all that tight you just put your safety pins back in order to hold that so next thing we're going to talk about is the Caster adjustment on these carts so you'll notice there's these numbers on the top and most of the time your base numbers are going to be eight on your left front and 12 on your right front the the different angle that you put into this so the higher that you go on this on this side will lift the cart on the left front take the the weight off of the left rear and transfer it to the right front so to play with different splits you usually want to be more positive on this side and less positive on this side you can always run it even up or more on this side but don't ever have more on your left side toe is actually the difference from the front side of both of these tires to the rear side of both these tires it's going to adjust how this tracks and how it enters the corner so I just use a real stupid proof way of doing this so I just go from the inside of that room to the inside of this room and I can see that my measurement here is 21 and three quarters so then I'll take and I'll go inside the steering shaft there and I'll go to here and I'll see that I'm at 21 and 11 16. which means I'm 1 16 of an inch narrow in the back that's 1 16 of an inch of toe out in the front which is what we're looking for so we can just tighten up all of these jam nuts we don't have to worry about messing with any of it uh we're gonna take a uh a look at now at scaling System since we're part of turn left Motorsports we've brought the classiest bathroom scales we could haul out and uh let's get scale this bad boy [Music] so here we're gonna start with the scaling process and normally what we're going to look for is we're just going to look at what numbers we've got on each one of our Corners underneath these wheels generally on these on these I like to go to gtsparkplugs.com and use their calculator and you just type in your numbers all around and you hit calculate and it shows you all your numbers so for right now we have 59 left side weight 61 percent cross 57 rear I usually like to match the left side and the cross or within a percentage of each other from the rear weight I usually like to have around 53 so on this particular cart we'll need to add weight to the front end so here we're just simulating a little bit of weight with a gallon of washer fluid so we just added oh eight pounds to the front end by adding that eight pounds we gained two percent of front weight so it looks like he'll need about 16 pounds on the front end to get down to the 53 percent rear weight all right so you have 54 like that that's better it's pretty good right there so you need that much light in the front however much that weighs in order to adjust cross weight if you are experiencing a cart that's overturning and then back end wants to slide out front end wants to go toward the inside of the racetrack you'll move this um spindle you'll move this toward the ground if you're experiencing a tight issue where you turn the front wheels of the cart and the front wheel goes toward the outside of the track you would move this side up and you could do the same op just opposite on that side uh for your left side weight a lot of things you can change and you can also do this for your cross is you can move your wheel in and out so you see right there we got about a half inch three quarter of an inch Gap so that's more weight that or more room that we can move this wheel in support more put more weight on that left rear over here we got about a quarter inch Gap we can move this in now put that puts more weight on that right rear or we can move it out to take weight off of it and you have this you have the same adjustment on the front end with spacers to move them in and out moving them out takes weight off that wheel moving them in puts weight on it thank you for watching uh hopefully this helps you out a little bit please subscribe below

Channel: Turn Left Motorsports

Views: 12,803

Keywords: kart, dirt oval, racing, PMP, TLM, gocart, go-kart, gokart, cart, dirt track, dirttrack, oval, ultramax, coyote, predator 6.5, Burris, prc, race, nascar, yard cart, prowler, road course, hasse, setup, caster, castor, camber, toe, acumen, rival, scales, cross, beginner

Id: BCp2AduJmso

Length: 10min 51sec (651 seconds)

Published: Fri May 05 2023