DiResta | Classic Toolbox Project

welcome back today I'm going to make a wooden box it's going to basically become a tool box for all my leather working tools and all the different supplies that I use when I do leather working I snaps my findings my rivet tools it's going to be a tray in it and I'm going to make it with white oak that I have from these bold steps I'm going to recycle this old white oak I bought a bunch of wood once and in the pile of wood with about twenty of these steps it's an inch thick it's really good it's laminated together so each piece is a few different boards so I have to contend with a couple of biscuit joints throughout all of this wood but it's great wood and it smells really nice and you see that rib there is in each one of the pieces so I have to work around that what I'm making now is the short sides and the long sides two short sides two long sides of this box and making it's going to be about 25 inches wide and about 12 inches deep and about 12 inches high and the first thing I'm doing is I'm planing them and if you notice how when I plane to avoid snipe I try and put them all right behind each other it reduces it it doesn't eliminate it because of course the last piece still has snipe on it but these boards I basically took at least a quarter off it's not maybe a third to make them slimmer because I'm going to make this toolbox I don't want the thing away a million pounds right there what I'm doing is I'm trying to get the center that piece of wood so you notice how I just nicked the blade one way and then make it the other way and then I know I'm in the center these boards I'm just trying to get as much yield out of them these are going to be the board's that become the top and bottom of my tool box their bread is off camera grabbing the pieces out of the frame and there are crediting that's going to become the top to bottom the bottom of the tray the sides of the tray and so now I'm planning all of them as well I'm just trying to get them to a consistent thickness and again when I plane I try to throw as many things through there you see am avoiding snipe by having those pieces all staggered the way I do and now this is day one I finished everything okay that was in New York City and now I'm at my new shop in upstate New York and it's this big building there in the center and this actually is the very first time I'm cutting anything in this shop there's one outlet at the moment and I have a little studio light plugged into that outlet and this router I have a big Porter cable router that was provided to me by rockler and I'm working on the Rockler router table for this part of the project the Finca joints are kind of big the pieces abroad and heavy so I made my own router jig it's just a little bit bigger than the one Rockler sells you'll seem to use that later and you'll notice here that very first cut when you're doing a staggered finger joint sometimes the first cut is just the bit itself right on the edge of the open wood and you'll notice I'm using the screw clamp here right here to see it use that piece of wood is going to get pushed around and you don't want it to push around now I'm resting on the peg so I have the security of pushing it into the peg and then you see it and I just go over the joints a couple times just to make sure that any kind of wobble in there is get gets cleaned up same thing there well there has the use of the peg to keep me secure and did a lot of tests off-camera with that to make sure I got it right and here I'm using type on - I don't like type on three kind of dried wood but I like the consistency it type on to better and everything just taps together I like them when they're a little bit snug you know what I'm so snug yet you have to hammer them apart and you can't take them apart you want some room for the glue also if you have them together too tightly it creates a crack there in the surface and just our clamp them together I make extra show that everything is square so I'm constantly checking square and get a goal in there and then I use a wet rag to clean up fall of the glue and here you'll see me I use it usually I use a shim a wooden shim but in this case there is a paint scraper I put it inside of that and I get right there in the corners because that's always the problem you don't know what's in there the way I wanted to try to paint it and you really just feel about glue in those joints and now that's dry and I'm just using a belt sander to cut down those joints that are sticking through I always make the joints proud a little bit maybe a couple of millimeters or a millimeter proud sand them and then you see it a little jig there so I can get the finger joints on the short side because it's all to just try and stand on the tendon folks say there's no wobble a little bit of place so I'll over the whole center of gravity by just putting those stakes of wood sticking off of the table and just resting it right on there I've done this before a couple years ago I did a bunch of production whiskey boxes 200 of them and I had to do the same thing and there you go the finger joints will look really nice and the box is certainly very strong now I'm working on the other side what did I tell Millie and you know you got to be careful not to burn whenever you use belt sanding it you'll see I did do some burn but you just lighten up you stop pushing as hard and you just kind of go gently and now I want to make sure that top and bottom are nice and flat and if you really out of whack you can work on it with a hand plane but I was very close so I made this sanding board and I usually do these sanding boards and drags over the surface with a couple of weights on top and the weights I have there is this big old screws or the actual nut four screws palm standing everything and now you see some of the biscuit joints that were buried in that wood you know and so now I'm going to make the top and the top they're just going to be a bunch of planks playing together at about a 3/8 of an inch Spock's ends up being pretty hefty ultimately and I'm slap joining them notice I'm just making space so that they lap joint I wanted to make sure that they were wide enough so that once I lap jointed them I didn't have a skinny little piece so the top is going to have four pieces just because it's the finished side and when I do the bottom I'm going to have a lot more of the scrap various different pieces I have is my Veritas shoulder plane I'm just making sure that I get those nice and snug together and this is a trick I always use when I glue big broad pieces of flat stock together and you'll notice there's just basically a wedge and I glue everything and then I hit that wedge and it just goes up the ramp and tightens everything and in this case I have three broad panels to glue I just glued this what was going to be the top so there's four pieces now this is the bottom and then eventually off-camera I glue the third part which will be the bottom of the tray and you'll notice this is kind of a smaller pieces of scrap square it all up tighten the jig and then just leave all the weights on there and there that's how I get the check out and there you go does my finish glued up thing and I'm now I'm using a cabinet scraper to get all the glue bumps off sometimes when you work with oak you tend to stain it with water and clamps and glues especially when you put steel near glue the steel tends to stain in the oak you got to be careful of that because sometimes it goes really deep so I'm gluing them in place and then I just put weights on them to hold them in place and now I'm router em you'll notice I'm conventionally cutting but I'm being very cautious I don't go back too far and I want to pull a big splinter off when I say conventional I'm cutting the way you might assume that you'd cut it be careful on your corners because you'll pull them apart so I always go to the corners first is what I do and then I work the lace in the corners and to hold the top in place for for the long term I'm going to nail it in place I have these one-inch nails with a little black head on them I like them I like the way they look I was inspired by a lot of the old tool boxes I buy at flea markets and garage sales have probably 25 antique toolboxes I just liked that every single one of them was handmade by the person that carried them and that's sort of my inspiration here and this is just a simple box I didn't want to get crazy like some of the other boxes I've made with big rails around the top and bumpers and stuff this is just a box that's going to carry some spools of thread some findings some rivets a couple of small tools but I also like the way the hammer sounds when I screwed it up let's listen pre-drill everything is you know want to split all that would all those nails together will make up one big split so you want to click your own and the way I like to do things is an organized fashion like this by putting everything in place and then go into the nailing portion sort of the production side of me it's a lot of fun too and then go and I like the look of the nails I really really like the way that look so now I'm going to open my box up this is going to be the lid I'm back up on my shop in upstate I went back and forth between the two shops probably four times during this build it's been a busy move it really takes up a lot of my energy in my time and now I'm going to cut what's going to become the size of the tray and that's my battery operated the wall 60 volt looks great and now here you see the smaller finger joint jig and I use it with a 3/8 bit to make this finger joint to the tray and that's secured to the actual rock life table I'm cutting it perpendicular to the to the table groove whereas before I was using the actual table groove as my slider so very versatile to have those different options and now here you see me assembling the tray and rock Lascelles these calls for clamping finger joints and you see those bumps and they're those bumps to designate it to land right where you need them to and again I use the 3/8 bit so they have them in 3/8 quarter and I think 1/2 inch and just making sure he flew everywhere I needed and I have a snug fit you can see that bag glue pinch out and there the calls in place and then comes with a ratchet strap and you wrap everything ratchet strap it together and gear it a couple of taps with a hammer and a couple of cranks down with that and everything gets pulled into place it pushes exactly it needed so now I'm back in the city shop and I'm using that sanding plate to screw to the table and I'm using it now to clean up that cut between the top and bottom getting rid of all the swirl marks from the saw blade and I don't like to do a hand plane there because you might take out more than you need in a certain spot you'll see by the end I didn't get it absolutely dead perfect together which I was hoping to but at that point it was a little too late in the build and so now I'm making the pockets for these hinges that you at Rockland he's a nice beautiful looking different Bruce oh and whenever you get a remove material I sometimes I'm a little too afraid to put a router to the top of this I'm afraid I'm going to lose control of it so with this chisel I just remove a little bit at a time make sure in it I got to go a little deeper than the actual thickness of the brass on those hinges because when the hinges are in the closed position is an air gap between them they're going to make up for that air gap so it's the width of the top and bottom of the hinge if plus the air gap and you'll see later what I do with the air gap I put a little piece of plastic in there to keep the hinges parallel in space I always cut the cross grain with a razor blade in this case I'm kind of with the grinder that's such a skinny little piece your hinges go just on the inside of that it ends up being probably about 1/16 3:32 thick and then you know it's going to go off to show up in the chisel I remember at that point now here you see I crazy glue them in place for just a moment so that's just superglue and now you see I just put a little bit of plastic in there as a spacer and then when I open the hinges I take the plastic out and pre-drill always when you use brass screws because they will break when you least expect it in fact I didn't do it in this case but sometimes I use a steel screw drive it in there that's the same size then remove it then put in the brass screw just to ensure that it doesn't break off halfway in even though I drill it sometimes in oak you will lose half of the screw into the hole and then you have no recourse especially when you just spent a half hour digging a hole for it for the hinge itself now this is a little bracket that's going to keep the lid open I'm not sure what that would be called and this is a little bit of a difficult installation but I worked out nice this is a quarter inch chisel I feel the front and back of the pocket I'm going to make and then I just go to town digging out that pocket with a quarter inch chisel try and stay on course it's not easy to me I don't really have the delicacy of a fine fine woodworker I sort of have the delicacy of a metalworker working in wood that's why I find it so comfortable working in metal but here take a look at that that's a cool Zanu snap it works so beautifully and here I'm using a plunge router I think for the very first time in my life with an eighth inch bit I'm pocketing out for those Brousseau clips these things are really the most sexy clips I think I've ever used they was just so satisfying when you hear that snap and I had a good tight line to follow and that's it you just stay on the line you stay on the line it's amazing how much it works there and those are just snug in there right now they're still not glued in here I'm just using two-part 5 minute epoxy getting them in there and making sure everything fits everything feels right at one point I had to put a piece of tape on it because the lid kept opening and then I just taken some sawdust and jamming it in any tiny little crevice that might be around the edge of that while the epoxy dries yeah this is the border from my tray which I started earlier on in the video and now I'm going to nail the bottom on hearing that prep and I glue the bottom on hopefully first I batten it out first with my expanding thing nothing comes in handy you wouldn't believe how convenient that is you'll notice add a piece of wooden there because the left and right side we'll both have a slight Bowl in them to the center so that little piece of wood has kept them separated in parallel more hammering which is very satisfying and I'm feeling the whole time excited to make sure the nails don't poke through because as they poke through and I drive them home it's impossible to get out so if I feel them poking through I'll stop oh I was so happy at this point because this is a culmination of a lot and a lot a lot of work and you'll notice there I'm hammering with that steel weight the only way to really drive that small snail home in that oak with a steel brick behind it now these handles I bought on ebay they're vintage toolbox handles and they were sort of rusty gray so I spray painted them gold just using some wipe-on poly right here on everything here nice and wipe-on poly and I use a little acetone to get rid of the epoxy around those breast clips that's way so kind of like a little stain there you'll notice I use the pencil to sort of give me an indication of where that is going to live in the center of this object pre-drill everything and now I'm using the gold paint again just a DAB on the head of those screws just to create the illusion that everything is the same tonality and I heat stamp it with my tawny riilu heat stamp and of course there was a divot in the wood so I'm going back in there with my sharpie to complete the beautiful hot stamp and we are done thankfully this is a long build because I was going up with it and download it and up with it and down with it between the two shops that's why I ended up kissing the box before because I got to a point where I knew I could see the end of the project this is a really fun build and I really like this box and I just love making my own tool boxes it's sort of an heirloom project and somebody somewhere is going to buy that at a flea market in 100 years thank you for watching [Music] you

Channel: Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

Views: 1,262,090

Keywords: how to make a toolbox, how to make a toolchest, how to make a tool box, make a wood toolbox, diy wood toolbox, making a toolbox, diresta makes, diresta makea a toolbox, derista makes a toolbox, diresta woodworking project, darista, deresta, woodworking tip video, woodworking lesson video, diy project, diresta diy, woodworking project video, toolbox project plan

Id: M_Inc_NAn3I

Length: 17min 29sec (1049 seconds)

Published: Thu May 04 2017