A group of French tourists
has just arrived in North Korea at a hotel only for foreigners. We've slipped in amongst them. It's already 10 PM, but we feel
like taking a little walk outside. The porter follows us
looking worried. Walk here. Stop. Stop? He waves us back as it's strictly
forbidden to leave the hotel on your own without an official guide. Nevertheless, we insist. Thank you. Stop, stop, stop. No?
-No. No?
-No. The tone is polite but firm. And reluctantly we go back in. Thank you. Inside, two North Korean dictators,
father and son, dominate the lobby. Mr. Jon works for the state
and is in charge of the French group. I wanted to go for a walk in town,
but they said no. Because everyone knows you're a spy. Well, we've already arrested
spies nearby, you know. Here, every foreigner is
a potential spy. North Korea is
the world's most secretive state and an example of the
worst kind of communist dictatorship. Since its creation in 1945,
the country has been living on another planet. Acute paranoia
and abject poverty are its distinguishing features. There are no statistics
available for its economy, but what is known is that famine
is a constant threat to the population. In the late 90s,
at least 1 million North Koreans are believed to have died of starvation. Even today,
according to the United Nations, 20% of the population
has little or no food, in particular,
those who live in rural areas. It's the reason
the World Food Program distributes about 400,000 tonnes
of food each year. We managed to film these scenes in secret. Lacking machinery
and even animals, local agriculture
is virtually non-existent. People eat what they can find: seaweed, roots. It's a starvation diet. Officially, the country's still headed
by Kim Il-sung, the dictator who died in 1994, but is designated
the "eternal president of North Korea". He's represented everywhere
in the form of monumental statues, frescoes and posters. His son, Kim Jong-il,
succeeded him and is officially known
as the "Dear Leader". He continues to wield
almost surreal autocratic powers, thanks largely to the backing
of an ever growing army believed to be over a million strong, massively equipped, including with nuclear weapons and technically still at war
with South Korea. Kim Jong-il continues the work
of destruction begun by his father. The result is people
living in conditions comparable to those
in the Soviet Union during the 1930s. The same queues
for the few buses that have gas, the same empty stores
where it is forbidden to film as the public never ventures inside. Not everything, of course, is so bleak. There are highways,
but use only by cyclists and the clean up squads
clearing away the puddles. There is even a casino in the capital
where you can have fun with slot machines, except there's never a jackpot. And there's also golf, the most capitalist of sports, enjoyed only by the system's elite. For the 23 million North Koreans
times are tough, but smiling is mandatory. Outbursts of joy
are carefully choreographed in grandiose street parades. It's into this nightmare world, inhabited by people
brainwashed since birth, that a group of Western tourists
has decided to come on vacation. At 8,500 euros
for three weeks, it's as expensive as the Seychelles. Only here,
there's no luxury, no coconut palms, only unfriendly minders
to check every photo. No mattresses in the bedrooms and no running water. There are even blankets
in here, look. Wow. That's enough for me. And naturally,
surveillance cameras to watch you. Welcome to North Korea, the dictator's paradise. The organizer
of this little trip of a lifetime is the man with blonde hair, Guillaume de Vaudrey, arranges speciality tours
of the worst places on Earth. In his group is Claude. For this young retiree, it's
the most significant trip fo her life, as for the first time, she's able to follow
the footsteps of her father, who was originally from North Korea. Jacqueline had no qualms
about accompanying her friend, Claude, a former librarian, now also retired. This will be her first experience
of a real dictatorship. There's also Henry,
who prefers to remain anonymous. It's not his first dictatorship, having already visited
and much enjoyed Iran. North Korea was missing
from his trophy cabinet, until now. Our minders are
two French speaking guides: with the glasses is Mr. Ho and on the right, Mr. Jon. Three weeks of propaganda lie ahead. Pyongyang,
the DMZ, the demarcation line
between the two Koreas, the extreme North
and the coasts along the Sea of Japan, the first Westerners
to ever make such a remarkable journey. Our trip to the land of communist bliss begins with an invitation
to share a joyful experience with the North Korean people. What, after all,
could be more appropriate than the gigantic lunar park, the only funfair in the country. Here, everyone smiles. Welcoming gestures
make the foreign visitor feel at home. The fair features attractions
from another era: archery,
games of skill with balls as old as the players themselves, ancient swings, and rides fitted with machine guns, very popular with the adults,
and watched over by the supervisor. The infrastructure is critically old and it doesn't look very safe. Still, never mind. It'll take more than that
to spoil the fun of the French group as it climbs onto the Ferris wheel. On board, everyone is
obviously having a good time. No, we're still good.
-Yeah, we're only halfway. Will you be okay? Now it stopped. Maybe we're broken down. Everything here is so quiet, not like the farm fairs back home. They're so noisy. Henry seems captivated by the calm,
good nature atmosphere of the fair. Even Mr. Ho,
one of the guides is enjoying the moment and wants to immortalise it. I'm filming the joy of this funfair. Crowds jostle, proffering money
around the cotton candy booth. Kids with money
and even young rappers. Is this really North Korea, the world's most evil
communist regime? Look, there's even the riff raff. It's unbelievable. Here, there's a queue,
not for food but for the bumper cars. Soon though, the harsh realities of life
in North Korea return when a group of soldiers
on leave appears. Watch out, there are soldiers. No filming now. To find out why the soldiers are here, we follow along
until we get to a rather special booth. Mr. Jon,
what's written up there? "Down with the imperialists
and down with the American aggressors". Really? But why is there
all still this hate? The war is over. No, the Americans
occupied our nation. They divided the country. But the peace has never been signed. It is just a ceasefire. The Americans started the war and our people
really suffered because of them. The grunts far away
with toys at the lead soldiers. But they are ready to fight for real. It's a war
North Korea has been preparing for since the state
was founded 65 years ago, and the sworn enemy is the United States. By 1950, the world was beginning
to painfully emerge from the Second World War. Two blocs faced off
the Communists and the pro Americans. Korea finds itself
at the center of this ideological conflict and is consumed by a war
that will last for three years. The South is supported
by the United States, the North by China. In 1953,
Korea is officially partitioned, and to this day,
no official peace treaty has been signed, only a ceasefire. Technically,
the two Koreas are still at war. It's a situation the French tourists
will soon get to know more about. Right now, we're about to enter
into the two kilometres of the demilitarized zone of North Korea, which is used for farming. And on the right
there is the flag of North Korea. On the other side,
just a few metres away, there's the enemy,
the traitors of South Korea. The tourists have to form a single file, closely observed by the soldiers. The atmosphere is tense
and each photo is checked. This is the world's most sensitive area, surrounded by 1 million soldiers
on both sides, ready to do battle. The small group finally arrives
at the demarcation line, the famous DMZ. It's a solemn moment. On both sides of the border, highlighted in red
are guards. They don't look at each other, but remain on the lookout. The first one,
who puts a foot over the line will be immediately spotted
by the slew of cameras and killed. The soldiers uniforms
are completely different. The retro style of the North Koreans and the Ray-Bans
and US equipment of the South. The Americans are actually
in charge over there. On the South Korean side,
a group of American generals arrives. They have their photos taken
with North Korea as a backdrop. It's as much as they'll ever
likely see of the communist nation. For the tourists, it's time to leave. But first, Claude
wants to sign the visitor's guestbook. It's a very important moment
for the French woman with a Korean father
and a French mother. Claude has made this journey
in memory of her father. 89 years after my father
had to leave the country, which was occupied by the Japanese, I come to this demarcation line
that divides Korea. This division always caused
great sorrow to my father, who never saw his native land again. Claude's father fled Korea in 1920,
long before the communist regime. The photo was taken shortly
before he found refuge in France. He was never able
to return to his country of birth. It's an emotional moment. For the tourists are soon reminded
they are in a state where everything is controlled. The guides and the soldiers
demand to see the photographs taken at the border. Many will be erased. To the tourists, this unrelenting surveillance
comes with the territory, and so far none of them complain. The tour continues
following the program put together
by the North Korea authorities. And the next stop is the War Museum. At the end of the courtyard,
an old woman is cleaning the stones. Suddenly, one of the guides assistants
forces her to leave. She was spoiling the scenery
by being poor and that is something
outsiders aren't meant to see here. For the very image of the country
is at stake, an image of perfection
that nothing is allowed to distort and an image that is constantly monitored. Hello, welcome to our museum. Behind her is a gigantic mural, as one would expect to the glory of Kim Il-sung,
the founder of North Korea. He has a godlike status, not least because he himself rewrote his country's
entire recent history. Please sit down,
we have a film now about the Korean War. And this will help
explain the Korean problem. Visitors to the museum
observed a rather partisan version of the conflict with the United States. It's a version in which
the Americans are definitely the bad guys. The voice, the style, the video. Everything resembles
a bad propaganda film from the 1950s. Who then started the war in Korea? These scenes will help provide the answer. Listen to how North Korean authorities
have rewritten history. <i>The Second World War</i>
<i>earned the United States</i> <i>huge amounts of money</i>
<i>through the sale of weapons.</i> <i>But after the war,</i>
<i>the United States lost its weapons market</i> <i>and entered into a period</i>
<i>of deep economic crisis.</i> <i>They then deliberately</i>
<i>started the war in Korea</i> <i>to help their economy,</i> <i>and they actively prepared for war.</i> Everything is false. The United States
has never been as prosperous as it was after the Second World War. But it matters not. And the documentary carriers
determinedly on in the same term. <i>Truman, the US president,</i>
<i>declared in a message to Congress in 1945</i> <i>that there are needed to be</i>
<i>a war in Korea</i> <i>so the United States</i>
<i>could dominate the world.</i> In fact, it's the exact opposite. Historians agree North Korea
triggered the war a reality the regime
in Pyongyang categorically denies and being the perfect dictatorship
is something it teaches all children in the country from an early age. The tourists are stunned that decide
it's best to say nothing, not one word. Obediently,
they continue the tour where more surprises are in store. At the double, they cross rooms filled
with war photos and posters. The rewriting of history continues. The Americans staged
air raids in the China Sea to bomb the towns and villages and massacre the Chinese people. Henry has never heard about
Americans massacring the people of China. He takes his carriage
in both hands and wades in. Excuse me, in which year
more or less did this happen? Which year was this battle? The battle? It was during the war in 1950, '53. Okay, so there was
no precise date just during the conflict as a whole. The answer is evasive
and makes Henry draw up short. But he dares go no further
and as teased by a journalist. You didn't follow up
the question, did you? You were scared? I just don't have the courage to. North Korea is a totalitarian state
which scares even foreigners. The country has virtually
no international friends, and if you get into trouble here, there will be no diplomats
coming to demand your release. The young woman
is waiting for us in another room inside real ships and aircraft. The propaganda lesson continues. This is the weapons room, where some of the original weapons
are on show. These all distinguished themselves
during the war, like this torpedo boat. It was one of four
which sank the US cruiser, the Baltimore. While the young soldier
recites her lesson, we dare ask a sensitive question. Were the same ones used recently
to also sink the South Korean warship? You know, there was
a South Korean boat that was sunk. This is the first time I hear about that. Yes, we've never heard of that. Only a few weeks earlier,
a South Korean naval vessel had been sunk off the coast of Pyongyang. On board, 46 sailors were killed. Tensions between
the two countries was at its highest just when the French tourist group
was visiting. Following our off camera question, we were summoned and spoken to
for several hours by North Korean agents who warned us never to repeat
such questions in the future, under penalty of having to extend
our stay here for several months. But for now,
all proceeds as if nothing ever happened. The museum guide continues her tour,
but the mood has changed. She proudly presents one
of the Air Force's old fighters. This plane is a MiG. It was visited by
Comrade Kim Il Sung in 1952. The aircraft, a MiG 15,
has been in continuous service in North Korea since 1952, as this video shot at the airport
by our reporter seems to show. It's an aging military, but one
which should not be taken as lightly as shown in the last room. Now, in this area,
we have captured enemy weapons that are trophies. All these weapons
are being used in action like machine guns,
helmets, flags, tanks or helicopters, an Aladdin's cave of implements of death. It's also yet another
opportunity to portray the wickedness of the Americans. They used chemical and biological weapons during the war,
and this plane was shot down while it was dropping
bacteriological bombs. True or false, it's impossible to get
beyond the blatant propaganda. The highlight
of the visit is saved for the end, a huge mural
depicting the Battle of Seoul. The limelight
focusing on the heroic soldiers who saved
the communist North Korean regime and protects it to this very day. The tourists are beginning
to understand where they actually are. Tired, they return to the hotel. It's rush hour,
but oncoming vehicles surprise people. Everyone is heading home from work
and quietly gathers to wait for their bus. Are the people queuing to get
into a stadium? No, they're waiting for the bus. Pyongyang never has traffic jams. In the middle of the road,
a woman is clearing broken glass. There was an accident here,
and everything must be cleaned up as soon as possible. On the left,
the large building is the People's Palace, and this is the city's main
thoroughfare at what passes for rush hour. The few buses are packed and look
as if they're about to fall apart. On the roadside, there's no advertising,
but huge propaganda posters for the communist regime. We see men proud of building
the future in this perfect country. A country in which
the women are there purely to raise the children. The two towers
on the right is their hotel, one of the most luxurious in the country. Inside are the restaurant
and notably a TV set, constantly tuned in
to national television. The programs consist of patriotic songs
before a military audience, generals making speeches,
a documentary on naturally Kim Jong-il, and how best to use a Kalashnikov. The French appear to pay
no attention whatsoever. Back in their rooms,
the tourists discover they themselves are not allowed to send emails
even to their families. All here is dictated by the state
and the laws make it obligatory to give the email addresses
of the recipients to a local official. Henry seems to find nothing
wrong with a strict new rules. I told my friends beforehand that well,
no news is good news. Well, you know, the country is cut off
from the rest of the world. The following morning,
Pyongyang is waking up. The same background music
is broadcast every day, beginning at dawn. It's not yet 6:00 in the morning. The sky is darkened by the opaque
swirls from the blast furnace plants. And already small hands are busy
scrubbing the still deserted streets. The woman is directing
non existent traffic, her movements,
those of a puppet gone mad. Everything must be perfect in this
the capital of the communist regime. But the extreme poverty
of the country is difficult to hide. Between two rows of buildings,
there's a curious sort of vehicle, a septic tank on wheels,
which used to be a truck. A few steps away,
a group of men heads shaved, dressed identically, practicing
their morning exercises in rhythm. That's North Korea, a crazy contraption whose wheel somehow
keeps turning 60 years on. In a country
where religion is banned, there is however a god. He's called Kim II-sung,
the local Stalin. He ruled a country
from 1945 until his death in 1994. His image is everywhere
in the country: statues, photographs,
murals. More powerful than a mere life president, he appointed himself
"president in eternity". And like everyone else
in the country, the French tourists
will have to pay him homage. What will you do with those flowers? I'll lay them in front
of the statue of Kim Il-sung. Next is the approach
to the statue of the "Great Leader". At more than 15 meters high,
it's hard to miss. It's solid bronze
and surrounded by a mural in his honor. The protocol is precise,
the ritual formal. We stop here. But first we'll put the flowers down
and then come back. So go and place your bouquets,
the three of you. Step back a bit. All together now in a line, and then we'll count to three. And at three, everyone bows. How many times? Only once, right? The bow, one, two, three... Paying tribute to one
of the worst dictators of modern times doesn't seem too upset Jacqueline. I love it. Saluting a dictator?! It's amazing. The Asians like to bow, even when they just say
hello to each other. Everyone does it in Asia. What if we had to bow
before President Sarkozy back in France? How would you feel? I wouldn't do it,
I don't like the cult of personality. Well, maybe for Carla. After the French group,
The Carousel continues, another group of Koreans
arrives for the obligatory pilgrimage. A perfect salute. And it's time
for the cleaners to move in to tidy up for the next party. And so it goes every hour,
every day of the week. For now, the tourists visit
is passing off smoothly. The North Korean guides
are able to show off their country in the best light. It's a far cry from the more usual image
of a dictatorship teetering on the edge. The tour of the communist paradise
continues. Next step, the pizzeria, the only pizzeria in the country. Dining there is a privilege
reserved for the elite and the few foreign visitors. This restaurant is essentially a whim created on the express orders
of Kim Jong-il, the North Korean dictator, simply because he loves pizza. And of course, as in any hot spot,
filming is forbidden. Everything started
because he liked Italian food so much, and then he had an Italian chef
from Naples come over for several years. And then he said to himself: "Well, listen,
why not train a Korean chef in Italy?" So the chef left
for a little time to get the training, and then an Italian expert
came to examine the kitchens here. And at the beginning,
the Italian chef said: "No, it's not right. We need to carry on
until we find the perfect recipe". The only pizza man
in all of North Korea will prepare the tourists dinner. In the kitchens,
the staff heat up the oven, despite two power cuts. The pizza man
is one of the dictator's favorites, one of the few North Koreans
to have been allowed to leave the country. Two years ago, I went to Italy for learning pizza. Okay, thank you. A cheese and ham pizza
will cost about 5 euros. Guillaume comments that
in this land of famine, it's not every day
that you can eat as well as this. This is the only chance
we'll get to eat cheese in this country. So enjoy it. Payment is in dollars or euros, but not the local currency
which foreigners aren't allowed to use. North Korea might be opening up a little, and not just because
of the pizza business. People are now allowed
to amuse themselves, boating on the river Taedong
or pets like this little dog. Rollerblading youngsters can be seen
on People's Square and mobile phones are no longer
a rare sight, although only local calls are allowed. There are even places
where people can have a good time: bowling, pool,
all a sign of regime relaxing a little and highlighting the growing influence
of consumer products imported from their ally, China. The tourists pay scant attention
to these changes. What they want is tradition. Souvenir hunting takes them
to the Pyongyang Embroidery Institute. But when they arrive,
there's some bad news. There's no sign of any embroiderers. I want a refund,
and there never will be. Can't we see just
one or two embroiderers at work? Just one? Just one? Are there any ancient examples
of embroidery in the museum? Yes.
-Good. The only evidence
of the famous embroideries is these two little kittens in the dark. It's difficult to make anything out. A lighter isn't bright enough,
and it's impossible to enjoy the works. On the stairs, an employee
finally arrives with a flashlight. But even that doesn't help. So the only option
is to take the embroidery towards the light. It's very pretty. If you could make it out, of course. At 150 euros,
Mr. Ho, the guide is trying to make a sale. It's painstaking work. It's very pretty, but it's not handmade. The tourists are disappointed and don't need to be asked twice
about complaining. It's very disappointing. The workers have apparently gone out. There's no electricity and the institute as a whole
is really disappointing. We didn't see any old examples, no clothes,
well, maybe one or two. Nothing, really. They realise that here things
really aren't the same as at home. Information is not freely available. Everything is filtered
and controlled by the totalitarian regime. The Internet is totally prohibited. And the Central Library of Pyongyang
there are plenty of computers, but aren't connected to the internet. A quick test on Google
gives us an equally quick answer. No response, nothing. There is no network
because the authorities won't allow it. They want to control
the minds of their citizens and it starts at a very young age. In the streets,
children much younger than six are already learning to march and step, chanting patriotic songs to the glory
of the great leader Kim. A few blocks away, a kindergarten. These kids aren't singing,
but having fun on slides and other playground games,
all of which appear in perfect condition. Again, the image of happiness and Henry, who has just had
a little chat with the guide, is under their spell. He told me about the youngsters in town,
and it's not like in France. You won't see young homeless people
sleeping rough and certainly no kids who take drugs here. And the children respect their teachers. Well, all I can say really is,
yeah, it's true. Poverty is carefully hidden
from the eyes of foreigners and almost impossible to film. By contrast,
model schools are a perfect showcase to present to tourists. Inside, the children are beautiful,
polite and always smiling. The teaching tools are incredible. In this room, the kids learn
to recognize the country's fruit trees. A little further,
a collection of stuffed animals, a collection of all the local wildlife. What better way
to teach children to recognize them. There's a brief show
for the benefit of the admiring tourists. The headmistress
calmly continues the visit. The kids welcomed the visitors warmly,
if not spontaneously. In this class, children under five are learning about the major episodes
of the life of Kim II-sung, which are then recited with gusto. Using a video,
the teacher adds a few details. The eternal president
can be proud of these little kids. Through them,
the socialist future of the country is assured. Their brains are
already conditioned to obey. Claude, who was a teacher all her life,
is struck by these methods of teaching. They learn a lot by heart. They learn everything about history, about the president,
about the great leader. And they start
when they're just three years old, to teach them about
where he was born, where he lived, what he did. And everything is repeated. They repeat everything
until it's fixed in their minds. I still remember the first thing
I ever had to recite at school. Claude makes sure what she says
can't be heard by the guide, who hovers nearby. This room is the dormitory where the children can take afternoon naps
as well as sleeping at nighttime. From the age of five,
they spend all week here, never going home. The state takes over the role of parent. A little further, other children play,
dance and sing among some fantastic toys. The military influence is all pervasive. Exact replicas of MiG fighters, some kids dressed as army officers, while others board a huge electric train. It's better than any Western school. So much happiness and good humor. You almost have to pinch yourself
to believe it. It's tough to criticize when
presented with so many happy little faces. To conclude the quick tour
of this model of education, there's nothing like a little show. It features a gifted young violinist. The kids are all made up,
all repeat a choreography learned by heart. And all behave like miniature adults: guitarists, twirling dancers, virtuoso singers. Everything's stage
managed to the tiniest detail. Even the smiles
appear forced for these little puppets meant to embody the ideals of North Korea. Hundreds of hours of work
must have gone into this to achieve these sort of results. To finish on a high, a piano solo by a five year old who reproduces every gesture
of the professional concert pianist. The French tourists are enthusiastic. Did you like it? Yes, it was magnificent. Your visit to the kindergarten
is now over. We'd just like to thank the headmistress. Thank you. I was reminded of my own childhood when we always did
what the schoolmaster said and we would never have dared misbehave, like run a battle or make noise. It reminds me a bit of what it was like
back in the 1960s and 70s. In the yard,
the sign catches our attention and slightly dampens
the recent enthusiasm. A guide translates
the slogan on the poster. "Kim Jong-il is the best in the world". They are wanting
to be soldiers for kingdom. It's the kind of slogan that reminds
everyone they are in a dictatorship, a dictatorship in which
the army plays a major role. 25% of GDP is spent on the military,
one of the highest rates in the world. That's 10 to 15 times
more in percentage terms than most European nations. In all, it's estimated
there are 1 million troops ready to do battle
at the slightest sign of aggression. An old style army
from the Stalin era with hundreds of thousands
of foot soldiers, both men and women, tanks
and missile launchers and completely obsolete fighter aircraft. Yet the North Korean army
is not entirely outdated. Since 2006,
Pyongyang has the nuclear bomb. This is precisely
why North Korea is so scary and why even
the United States refrains from attacking. It's something that makes Mr. Jon,
one of the guides, very proud. We feel very good about
having such a strong national defense. For example, we have now managed
to possess our own nuclear weapons. A heavily armed and very secret country. And now
we're on our way to one of North Korea's
most mysterious regions: the north,
near the border with China. An old twin engine plane
awaits us on the tarmac. It's owned by Air Koryo,
which is on the blacklist of airlines banned from flying in Europe. It's a two hour flight
over mountains still covered with snow, making the journey
to her father's homeland of the north is why Claude is here. We're now close to Siberia
and you feel it in the temperature. Foreigners are usually not allowed. And in the special area,
we now receive special treatment. Three new guides join us. The slightest movement
or even the slightest word will be monitored
and if necessary, reprimanded. We're on our way now to Mount Paektu, the highest point in the country. It's 2750 metres in altitude. And after the winter,
we're the first visitors to come by car, which is why there are
no tyre marks in the road. Actually,
the road is barely passable, and it's not long
before there's some bad news. We can't go up
to Mount Paektu. It's dangerous. You can see that for yourselves. If we slide, it's all over. There are still 28 kilometres
to go over ice and snow. It's impossible. Claude is hardly surprised though. Claude, so the roads are closed? Yes, it's only to be expected
seeing the amount of snow that's around. And they have no machines here
to clear it or any salt. The vehicles aren't properly equipped. Yeah, there's no snow chains
or special tyres, and they just don't clear the snow. Can't we just run some snow rackets? In the absence of the sacred mountain, the tourists at least
try to visit the village. It looks deserted. It's like an abandoned show village. Where are all the inhabitants? There's no smoke or anything. Where are the people? Only a can of cooking oil
proves that there were people here once. We'll never find out more. Mr. Jon immediately intervenes
and it's back on the bus. Well, I guess we'll just go
and have lunch at the hotel then. What time is it, by the way? Lunchtime? Rather than meeting with residents,
the tourists will be subjected to another onslaught
about the life of the dictator. It's cold and damp
and some of the group are beginning to tire of being manipulated. To begin with,
the photos taken during this latest trip are deleted. A young woman dressed in military uniform
is waiting to welcome them to the sacred site where Kim Jong-il,
the regime's current strongman was born. Smoking here is strictly forbidden. One more minute. First, we'll visit the house
where he was born. And on the way back, we'll go that way. This house is where Kim Jong-il
was supposedly born, a shrine that is to be respected. Please don't stand on that. We're told the dictator was born here and there were
guerrilla forces in the region. Claude, who knows
the history of the country, refuses to swallow this crude propaganda. He was born on the other side
of the border, wasn't he? Yes, he took refuge over that. There were never
any guerrillas here, in fact. That's just propaganda then. Yes, it's written somewhere Kim Il-sung created the guerrillas
in 1920. In 1920, he was only eight years old. I mean, do they think we're idiots? I mean, it's incredible. He must have been at least 12. Claude regrets
having dared openly criticized the regime, especially as all around them
are dozens of surveillance cameras. They heard what we said. Do you think there are
microphones everywhere? Don't translate it. The friend Jacqueline whispering
decides to make an unorthodox comparison to the local political system. It seems like we're in a fairy tale
only that the story never ends. The ogre is still alive. Still so long as we're not eaten up, well, I guess that's fine. Look, there's another house
that looks the same here. Henry, for his part, has no such issues. He loves everything
and is keen to show it. But even he's amazed
when the guide in the pouring rain launches into a patriotic song about the great leader
having to leave home and family. Very nice, thank you. That was good,
everyone sings well here. You know, Kim Il-sung wrote that song. As to the many statues of the dictator, Henry salutes them
without even being asked to. The minders can't get over it. Do it with me now. Okay, I'll do it again. Mr. Ho is delighted
with this Frenchman who behaves like a true supporter of the regime. A few kilometres further on
yet another bronze statue in the middle of nowhere. Again,
it's to the glory of the dictator again with giant warlike frescoes. Claude has had enough
of this cult of the personality. This is just all too much. What do you mean? Well, by their size, the style, the way they're made,
the cult is everywhere. Henry, of course, disagrees. But you need to remember
that this really is an art form. Yes, but I mean,
they're all the same, even the way they sing the songs. But from the urban point of view, all the perspectives are respected and everything is ordered. You know what, it reminds me
of what Hitler wanted to do. Yes, in Berlin,
his plans with Speer was exactly the same kind of thing. I've seen the models. Well, I just can't get to like that sort
of style or architecture. No, me neither. Comparing the Pyongyang regime to Hitler,
Claude is really letting loose. When it's time to leave,
the bus will not start. Fortunately,
a group of soldiers pass by at least a dozen helping push the vehicle. Their assistance cheers up, Henry. We'd been in North Korea
for more than a week, but have so far still been unable
to talk directly with ordinary Koreans. This will change though,
as we head to the country's coast along the Sea of Japan with a promise of sleeping
at a locals' house and being able to move about freely. But the reality is quite different. Like all the country's shores,
the area is classified as top security. To prove it, the road
is lined by electrified barbed wire, which is there to protect
against a possible landing by the South Koreans or Americans. It's forbidden,
for example, to film this village. It's impossible to see
what's behind this white fence. Even Guillaume,
who has organized trips here for the past ten years, finds this too much. They make me cross,
they really make me cross. Why?
-Well, even a photo like this, look, they don't like it. They really go too far. If it's going to stay like this, I'll never plan any more visits
to this region. So they bother even you then. I'm going to really complain
when we get back to Pyongyang. It's too much. I understand they don't want
pictures of military installations, that kind of thing,
but this is just the countryside. As usual, Mr. Jon has already
explanation, this time to justify all the security. On the beaches and the coast,
it's not allowed to take pictures. Everywhere around here is a military zone. Too bad for the tourists
who will, however, still be able to spend a night with the locals. It's an extremely
rare privilege in this paranoid country, except that everything here is false. The village was built purely
to accommodate foreign visitors. This village was built for people
that come here to see Mount Chilbo. Okay. All right, so it's a very nice,
special village with nice houses. The people here are lucky. As for the residents,
they've obviously been carefully selected. This woman, for example,
is part of the regime's elite. The evidence,
she had the incredible honor of meeting Kim Jong-il,
the leader. An honor
that is no coincidence, since this charming lady
is considered one of the best moms in the country as Mr. Ho explains. From time to time,
we organized mothers' conferences. We select the mothers
who have raised their children very well and in a proper socialist way. Rather than endure yet more propaganda, the tourists plot their escape. The beach is not far. It's too good an opportunity
to escape the minders. For the first time,
we glimpse the true face of North Korea, the grinding poverty
that is destroying the country, and that must remain hidden. On the beach, women are picking up seaweed
caked in sand and stuffing it into old sacks. The seaweed will be served up for eating. But we are soon tracked down
by one of our guards. We can go there. We can go to the fishing there. We want to see the fishing man. You come with us,
we go to the fishing boat. No, no. Please. I have no...
-Permission? I have no ability to go forward. And if you go with me and if you go along this route
and afterwards, I... The gesture has
the merit of being clear at least. The man will risk his life
if the law isn't respected. This is my last stop. Look this sight. Down there, he says,
there's another village. And this time we are promised,
assured and guaranteed that photos will be allowed. At the entrance,
there's a slightly odd map. The architecture
is apparently typical Korean. The tourists seemed to perk up a little. It's nice, I love it. I've taken lots of photos this morning. It's beautiful and clean. There's even a small demonstration
of traditional local cuisine. But again,
everything is stage managed and totally artificial. Nobody lives here. The tourists never see any North Koreans,
apart from some employees, who are not allowed to talk to them. No? We find a small
passageway that leads outside, but it's useless
someone is always there to block our path. We walk outside over there
to go to the market? No, no,
first we need to drop off the bags. Okay, well,
I'll take a walk outside in the street and come back a little bit later. Okay? No, we go together. The door is locked now. Why? I can go that way. I've seen another way out. No, you can't,
it's not allowed. No, we won't give permission for that. Mr. Jon,
Mr. Ho said I could go for a walk for a few minutes outside. No, he never said that. Okay, I'll go to the library then. It's not possible? I know what you're up to. Well, at least I tried. Mr. Jon, our guide isn't fooled. He knows the rules
and the considerable risks. No images of real life. This fake village
is a snapshot of the country, a prison from which you cannot escape. The solid wooden doors
remain closed to all North Koreans. A third generation of Kims
will almost certainly continue to rule. Indeed, Kim Jong-un, the 27 years old son
of the current dictator, has been named his heir.
