In the streets
of Waslala in Nicaragua there is an air of tranquility and peace yet the atmosphere is tense as tomorrow it's local election day and things are getting heated. Highna and his old truck,
which is three times his age, have been requisitioned by the government, he didn't want to take this road but the authorities have
given him no choice. I transport the staff in charge of the
elections as well as the ballot boxes. I'm required by law to reach my
destination, otherwise I risk punishment. Why?
- Because people won't be able to vote. I risk 90 days in prison. And even if my truck has a mechanical
problem, I have to get there. This is what
motivates the young truck driver and, if necessary, he and his passengers will finish on foot, a very likely option. The problem is that the track
is winding and worn out. The government doesn't look after this road. The most recent work goes back six years.
And since then, nobody has come to maintain it. We are moving at 5km an hour.
The slope is too steep. Once we are back on flat ground
we will go faster. Due to a leak, the exhaust
fumes are entering into the cabin. The motor is under a lot of
pressure and it is heating up. I told him to put water in the
motor to stop it from overheating. A nice idea
but not great for vision. For this journey Highna
receives a small fee, a reward which allows
him to pay for petrol and for the work of his assistant. Where do I drop you off?
- Just opposite the school. Here, I drop off the first
group with their ballot boxes. The police are there to watch them. To prevent problems, in case of
conflict between political parties. There can be lots of violence here.
Many people are armed. With both firearms and knives. They could kill one of the election employees,
especially if there is suspicion of fraud. We're late.
We'll arrive at night. Highna still has
three villages left to reach and given the fumes from his exhaust pipe he and his passengers will
make it to the end of the trip. Nicaragua, a small country
in Central America. It's long been afflicted by internal wars. The most recent was in 1979 between a right wing dictatorship and
a left wing populous regime much like in Venezuela who's
president Hugo Chavez's portrait stands in Managua,
the capital of Nicaragua. It was political change
with disastrous consequences for the six million inhabitants. The United States is afraid
of communists potentially suffocating the country by
imposing an economic embargo. Nicaragua has run out of everything, the economy is devastated and the country is struggling to recover. There are many roads only
60% of which are paved and they can only be found in the capital. The Nicaraguans travel
across their country with a classic latino fatalism, keeping a smile on
their face at all times. - At five a.m.
- the silence is broken in the village Rosita. Welcome, my brother. God bless you.
God bless you, my sister. Thank you, Lord. May your presence in this place be real. Brother
Alexander and brother John have fulfilled their dream, to establish their own evangelical church. But the congregation is scarce, at most there are a
dozen people at each mass and tithes and offerings
are their only income. To increase their
resources the two priests are going to attempt to attract the inhabitants of the
neighboring village. We're trying to bring more brothers
and sisters back into our church. Tomorrow we'll visit a remote
community, named Rosario Kukalaya. We'll go by motorbike, because the poorly
conditioned roads make it impossible in a 4X4. On a motorbike, it's much easier
on those precarious roads. Even if we fall,
we get up and keep going! Only, the
Lord's will prevails and that's putting it mildly. In the suburbs of the capital Managua, an explosive operation
is currently taking place and under close surveillance. 7500 kilos of 25 by 400 dynamite.
32,000 standard number 8 detonators. 32,000 connectors for Drill Bits. The Drill Bits
measuring 12,000 millimeters in length. The bill amounts to 148,000 euros. A convoy of explosives
must always be escorted. We have to be careful, there are armed gangs
that could attack us for stealing the explosives. It's a real possibility,
and it's happened in the past. Seven and
a half tons of dynamite for a beautiful firework display, Hilario however is a little
more wary of these little boxes. When I started, I thought dynamite
was the most dangerous cargo. And as a result, I stayed as far away as possible
from dynamite trucks when carrying the detonators. I didn't know that it was the detonators which
cause the explosion, that they're the real danger! The detonators explode in the event of friction.
They explode in the heat and as a result of shock Whatever we do, they explode. They must
be transported with the utmost care. That's why we put them on the back seat. Thanks to
the shock absorbers, they don't move too much. The conveyors
deliver the dynamite in the mining triangle of
Bonanza, a 420 kilometer journey, half of which requires
taking precarious roads. We have 13 or 14 hours of travel ahead of us,
as long as there are no unforeseen events. If we encounter a problem, we will
not arrive until tomorrow morning. Though Hilario doesn't look much like Yves Montand with his truck slaloming
between the holes, it looks like a remake of Wages of Fear though, hopefully, with a happier ending. When Nicaragua gained
back it's independence from Spain in 1821, it became the richest and most prosperous
country in Central America but in 1909 the United
States provoked a coup d'état in an attempt to access
some of its wealth. Since then the country
has fallen under a mixture of revolutions and dictatorships,
today poverty is rife. Our two priests hope to bring
hope to down trodden spirits by branching out to neighboring villages. May our mission be blessed, Lord. May all those who will accomplish this journey
be placed under your protection, in Jesus' name. We're going to visit our brothers. I protect the
Bible from the rain by putting it in this plastic bag. Well things seem
to be off to a bad start. It's the other way, brother. Yes, like that. And their
journey is not going well. The pot is dirty.
I think it's broken. The village
that they want to evangelize is 40 kilometers away and
getting there is another story. We're covered in mud.
Go! Soaked yet again! The brother's
determination in unrivaled though barely rewarded,
they face a real challenge. We will be able to continue.
However, we are going to be hot! Is it punctured? Here, yes. I'll ask if there's a garage nearby. Excuse me, is there
a garage in the area? At the crossroads? Okay.
We have to turn back. They've only
traveled 15 kilometers and they've already made a wrong turn. It's a two kilometer
walk to the next village. Hello, is this a garage where
we can get our wheels repaired? On the other side? Their
prayers seem, once again, to be left unanswered. I have no more patches.
- You don't have any? No. No more.
- So what can we do? We can't continue. The only solution is to retrace
our steps to find the patch... ...and then set off again towards
our destination, Rico de Oro. They must return a few miles and start from square one. As long as we're on this
earth and we're human beings... ...we'll always make mistakes,
and suffer trials and challenges. But we must accept the plans of God.
And keep a grateful heart. In the
end they decide to wait for a charitable soul to help
transport their motorbike to the nearest garage
but with little luck. Meanwhile, the convoy
loaded with dynamite, is progressing step by step. While Hilario juggles between the potholes and the jolts whilst
carrying the detonators. This is the only possible road we could take. It's full of holes and I'm trying to drive carefully. Since I'm carrying such dangerous objects,
I try to keep my distance from others. In case of an accident, the shock could trigger the
detonator, and we would all be wiped off the map! In the back, there is enough to destroy
everything within a 200 meter radius. It's forbidden to smoke in my car.
Thank God, I don't smoke. The seven and
a half tons of dynamite cross the villages without
any real security checks, there are no police
officers here to regulate the transportation of goods. It's raining badly. A little further
down the road is a bridge... ...and if the rain continues
at this rate, it won't hold us. This year
flooding has caused the bridge to be washed away several times causing major traffic
disturbances for weeks at a time. The brother's prayers
have finally been heard, the rain stops and a
kind soul transports them to the next garage. That's it, I have oil. In rural
Nicaragua the average salary is a meager 140 euros,
our two priests here earn much less depending
fully on donations. Due to all of these mechanical problems,
this trip is going to cost us dearly. 16 euros
lost and that's not all. The journey is making them exhausted. Even if the country is
reestablishing its economy remote areas like this are still
waiting to see the benefits. The Nicaragua economy is limited due to a serious lack of infrastructure and we see this on our travels
with brother Alexander. 7 hours to cover 40 km.
That's too long. It's one of the worst roads in the region. The current government does not allocate
any of its budget for road maintenance. The ruling party uses public money for its
own benefit, and to fund their own party. I'm trying to find a
place to put the bike. The earth is like quicksand.
It's risky! Very risky. Is it deep there?
- Yes. Where have you come from? We have just come from a place
where we were waist-deep in mud. The motorbikes
move much slower than the four legged animals. With the help of God the
brothers hope to accomplish their mission to convince
the inhabitants of Rosita to come and worship in their church but once again Heaven does
not seem to be on their side. And at 6pm we will have to leave again. It'll soon be nighttime, and no one will be
awake, there is nothing more we can do. I think we're going to
give up this time, turn back. Our plans have amounted to nothing, all
because of the poor condition of the roads. That's what's frustrating. Look! These are God's plans and
we have to accept them. The more I wash, the dirtier I get. It will take
much more to discourage these two priests. Tomorrow they will ride
their motorbike again, determined to reach their new flock. The convoy of dynamite has
been exposed to a heavy storm. As if this isn't enough,
a few kilometers on the final bridge threatens
to give way to the flood and shred to pieces. It's already happened
several times this year. At around 11 p.m. the truck
gets through, just in time. After 400 kilometers
and 15 hours of travel, they finally arrive in
the mining town of Bonanza with their seven and a
half tons of dynamite. This dynamite will help the miners to
blow up the rock in order to reach the gold. Gold has been
mined in Bonanza since 1880 but the city doesn't seem to
have made much progress since. Alongside the official mine is a group of illegal immigrants who
are trying their luck. It must be said that
this part of Nicaragua is somewhat of a treasure trove. The depths of these mountains contain a range of other precious metals. The mine helps support around
250 families of miners. Here we extract rock containing the gold. Gold, silver, zinc and chrome
can all be found here. The mine can reach up to 150
meters beneath the mountain. At first glance
it looks like a standard, modern mine but there's no light and there are barely any wooden planks at the bottom of the tunnels. This is where I work every day. Day and night, it's all the same
as it's always dark here. The biggest danger is that
the walls will crumble. And if the wall gives way,
it's over for us! Jovelci works as a diver, 100 meters of rock separates
him from ground level. I work carefully, because
if I fall, I could kill myself. And at 18
years old the young man digs relentlessly to extract five
tons of rock from the mine. Once sifted only 30 grams
of gold will remain. It's not a huge amount but
he relies on his youthful strength to extract much more. For the sake of gold, we are all ready to die.
It doesn't matter if it all collapses. The important thing is to be able to extract as
much as possible before the mine collapses. Whether they
are clandestine workers or employees there's no
machinery to lighten the load. Every two days trucks
head to sieving stations. I carry around 150 bags. It's a load of
over 10 tons. Between 10 and 11 tons. This road is a nightmare. You can stay
stuck on here for two or three hours. Ramon has a
rule that he never breaks, only drive when there
are other trucks about. This is the only way to ensure he can reach the end of the road. You see, if this storm hits,
the road will become a real mess I have to hurry before the rain comes. I mustn't lose speed, otherwise
I will get bogged down. Ramon's
physical state is invincible. It must be in order to
resist the daily jolts and tumbles that throw his
truck in all directions. He also has a quick reaction time and his truck is never
allowed a minute to rest. A stone has caused an air leakage. Is your wheel done for good?
- No, only the roll bar. All the drivers
have stopped to lend a hand. On this road, drivers must help each
other out, there's no choice. Solidarity is key. Ramon will finish
his trip without any problems just in time for the town election vote. Nicaraguans who work in the city are returning to the village
to go to the polling booths. Trips sometimes last several
days in extreme conditions as public transport is so poor. The bus station at Rosita is full. Travelers who know him are
hoping to find a driver they call El Toro, for his speediness and his ability to overcome obstacles. Come on, my man. I have to leave at 9:25 am. Passengers continue to arrive right until
the last moment. Look, there's one running. To the port! In his
old American school bus that dates back to the '90's,
El Toro intends to reach the city of Puerto Cabezas, 150 kilometers away, in eight hours. It's raining.
It's going to be a rainy day. It's not good for the road but for us it's not a bad
thing, it'll make the temperature more tolerable! When the road is flooded,
I cannot see where I am going. But I've done this many times,
so I know more or less where to go. With or without potholes El Toro puts his foot on the gas as he must arrive before nightfall to catch the ferry to take
them across the river. Come on! Get in!
We re going up! I keep machetes behind my seat, because
sometimes fights break out on board. I forbid them to keep their machetes
with them, to avoid accidents. Go to the back, to the back,
there is still room. Move forward, move forward! There are 64 seats on the bus. Technically it's now full, but,
there is always a little room on the steps. The truck won't start but El Toro is a few steps ahead and is ready to show solidarity. I'm going to tow it by tying
the chain to the base frame. The truck doesn't start, it's not a problem with the motor as the driver initially
thought was the case. Look at the state of the filter.
How do you expect that to work? No wonder you can't start
this thing. Look at all this dirt. I can't help him any longer,
we are already late. The ferry
won't wait for them. In Nicaragua time goes slowly. Its inhabitants have learned
to live with the unexpected though it's clear they
don't really have a choice. 10 hours of traveling and
half an hour on a ferry and the end of the trip approaches. We've arrived on the coast
and here, everything is different. This land is where the Miskitos live.
We don't see them on the mainland. The Miskitos
territory is a small enclave within Nicaragua, these
indigenous people have developed their own way of living. They live on agriculture,
hunting and seafood. It goes without saying that
their living conditions are precarious to say the least. The Miskitos are specialists
in lobster fishing. A hose connected to a
compressor brings them oxygen. Some men do between 12 and 16 dives a day. A physically demanding profession. Divers who have worked for years
deteriorate in their physical capabilities... ...making them unable to
dive, they age very quickly. But many of them continue regardless, in order
to make a living. That's how accidents happen. Descending to 27 or 30 meters, the depth
of the water has an impact on them. Two hours later
and their lobster yield is disappointingly low. For a long time over fishing
has reduced yield quantities by a 10th. The Miskitos have fallen back
on animals of less quality, sea cucumbers, popular amongst the Chinese but sold at a much cheaper price. Did you go down to the bottom?
- No! How far then?
- 20 meters or so. It's hard work.
- Why? The water, the sea. Is it very dangerous?
- Yes, it is. What dangers are there? We could die. Diving accidents
are a common occurrence. In 2013 along the coast
that connects Nicaragua to it's neighboring country, Honduras, there were 2,000 Miskito accidents, some villages are more
than 70 kilometers away from the coast which means that at sea, receiving emergency aid is difficult. The biggest risk for divers
is decompression sickness, rising up too quickly can
leave them disabled for life. That's what happened to
Elvaristo 20 years ago. When I see them go, it scares me. l always wish to tell them that it's dangerous,
but it's rarely any use. Here, the young workers go to sea like that!
They learn to dive with their friends. They are not given any protection. Nobody
trains them how to do this as a profession. We're indigenous people: the Miskitos.
In the eyes of others, our lives don t matter. It doesn't matter if we end up
dying or paralysed from our work. Elvaristo will
try to change the people's future during the local town elections by voting against the party in power. In Nicaragua protests and
demonstrations are forbidden so opposing parties struggle
to make their voices heard. It appears change is a
distant dream for many, corruption is rife with
the current president having led the country for 11 years and his party holding a firm
grip over the entire country. Those who are in power are
taking away our rights as citizens. As night falls
ballot papers get sent off to the main town in Highna's truck. If any mechanical
problems had prevented him from delivering the ballot boxes the repercussions would
have been substantial. Thank God, I have done my part.
I've dodged 90 days in prison. Even if his
truck breaks down now it doesn't matter, Highna
will deliver the ballots on foot, on his back. As expected, the
government's party prevailed within most of the town hall, in Nicaragua the paths
that lead to democracy are like its road network, tortuous.
