Custom Tanto Knife Build - Warthog Ivory Handle

hi everybody well today I'm gonna be starting a new knife build this one I'm building it for my good friend John who has actually given me some of the parts that I'm gonna used to make this knife with so I'll give you an idea of what it is effectively he is an avid bow hunter and on previous trips out to Africa he is shot several walk now he's very kindly basically give me a several sets of Warhawk tusks so I'm gonna see if I can incorporate some of his ivory into the handle of a knife I checked with him to see what kind of knife you would like and he thought a tanto blade would be a good one to add to his collection so basically scoured online I found this template here which I think will be about fitting it's quite a large knife but I think you'll be pretty awesome I've added to it build it out of is this five mil thick piece of 1095 so it should be nice chunky knife by the time it's done I'm gonna try and give it a hollow grind and then so far as a handle we have to see just what decent usable sections I can get out of these it's going to be quite interesting to see whether we have to chop them into smaller sections and laminate them quite what we were doing probably not with a combination of g10 with some water ivory in between [Music] life's too short to tried reveling all the rest of this profile off so take it to a nice 36 grit on here at Ted do the rest for me [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] okay well we're all set up here ready to start grinding the primary bevel so let's give it a go [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] okay so that's the primary Biffle pretty much completed along that side so you're not gonna flip the jig over and do the same on the other side [Music] [Music] okay well there we have it first go and completed on each side and you see there that rounds out straight down to the end of the tip here and then flip it around nice to submit cool so I'm now going to rearrange a jig all together and we'll start grinding the attenti [Music] okay well the shape of the main handle is done now so what I'm gonna do is start to look at putting the bolster in there now what I've got here is a nice section of oh one tool steel and I've got some dowel pins to match which is what I've drilled these holes out here so I got to start at the front and basically going to trim off a couple of sections of this one for each side drill them through so they're exactly the same pitch and then grind these down pretty much the final size profile the the front edge and the back edge where I'm going to see if I can do a little bit of a a semi dovetail 45-degree slot for the next layer to bolt into okay so I drilled the first couple of pieces of tool steel just with one hole going straight through so those two were nicely aligned left and right in the vise and then line up the rest of the knife with that holding them of the curve they're more grips to make sure that nothing moves slid this drill bit straight through the hole which is exact perfect for mill diameter fit all the way through and then I'm just going to use the press here to put in a second hole in exactly the correct space once this is all done those two bolsters will line up perfectly in every way [Laughter] okay so the plate here is looking pretty good is already for heat treating I've got a piece of angle iron heating up in the Forge they're nice for the rebar so I'm going to use that to heat up the quench oil and then once that's done we'll put this in get it glowing nice and red make it so the magnet won't stick to it and then you'll get it quenched okay so here's the blade post heat treat as exist covered in all this nice to scale and oil and everything but what I'm gonna work on a little bit next before cleaning all that up is the bolster so where do you drilled out the two side pieces which fit through these formula holes in there so that slides on there and that goes on there so that forms the two halves now what I'm gonna do is just mark off where I need to get rid of all this excess grind it down on the literature I'm going to put a radius on the front here and I'm going to put a 45 degree chamfer on the underside which is where I plan to them in lay some of the Warthog ivory [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] okay so this is the Tusk that I'm gonna try and cut some inlays out of I think that I've got a couple of these so if it all goes horribly wrong then try again but my idea is where I've got the bolster on the blade here I've got it nicely dovetailed in the back and I'm just gonna see if I can cut out the kind of a must be between 1/2 and 3/4 inch wide piece that I'm gonna need and then dovetail it to go straight in there and then do the same on the other side so and I start chopping this up as you can see the actual thing is hollow for quite a long way in and then after that point it has all its on here whereas the other cutters on the the Warthog used to chop into this one so that's how they used the slicing motion so yeah we'll see how much of it is usable wants to cut it apart first cut in it looks like this warthog tusk is pretty solid then with these you can never tell when they're boiled out of the skull sometimes they can get a very brittle and cracked and things like that but this one is looking quite sound so hopefully I'll be able to get some usable material out of it I'm just working on the shape in this ivory into a couple usable and so many identical sections so I can use one piece on each half of a handle tucked up in the dovetail behind the bolster both those are all finished up there and then on the Warthog tusk there's basically a route that goes right down the inside of it which as you can see along here just presents this time little hairline feature now chances are if I put that in the middle of the scale kind of left to right so if I was to put it on there like that and chop off all the rest of this that's probably gonna end up split in at some stage in the future so my idea is of cross sectioned it here so half of that's done but then I'm gonna split it again straight down the middle of that line so hopefully we'll end up with two scales that are this one piece and again with those that should line up pretty perfectly to cut out that middle section all together okay so I'm not going to take my restaurant rough because this won't hug test absolutely stinks but there you go you can see the tolerance is not I'm not join their absolutely bang-on before fitting their scales I've decided I'm gonna know just a couple of fairly large terminal holes through the middle of the handle here just to help cut down on some of the the weight to make the balance a bit better there we go table by 10 mil let's go straight through and all that's left to do is a lot of surface finishing by hand I'll finished up the hand rubbing down to a 400 grit you can see on there that the heat-treat line is polished just a little bit more than the rest of the blade so again basically I think I've got hot metal in the nice band pretty much up and around here and then gradually getting softer but what I'm gonna do now is a bit of a improvised sandblasting rig I'm gonna put a nice blasted finish all the way over here cuz I'm gonna put it into a ferric chloride SR ditch which should look a lot darker if we roughed this up a little bit first but the idea of the sanding was to make sure there was no nasty scratches or nothing in there first of all that we're going to stand out okay so as you can see that it's just a few seconds in there and all of a sudden that's made that a real nice matte finish up on here so I'm just going to wait for the tiny compressor that we've got to man up refill and I'll gradually go over the entire blade [Music] okay so there we have it the entire blade nicely sandblasted we have aluminium oxide well I plan to do next to just go and file in a little dimple here at the end of the rare caso and just basically define where the blade ends and then the handle starts realistically probably should have done that before he treated it but it'll just be more of an exciting challenge to do it now the play time luckily for me I just got a nice sharp new diamond needle file okay so now I'm gonna start to fit the bolster onto here I've got this piece of silver steel in the bench vise which I'm about to cut the length now I'm here if I measure up my bolsters it's just a tad over seventeen and a half mil so basically I'm just using that the same measurement plus a tiny little bit for a painting over mark that onto here and I'm literally just gonna take their craft tool on a dremel and make a few of those enough to go in those two bolts the holes for now [Applause] [Music] okay so I've got those pins cut out one side of that it's just loosely slid over them this would be the other side so effectively that ball just pushes on better leaves a nice dovetail with the Walker ivories gonna end up so my plan is now gonna acetone all sides of this and then I'm gonna get a town on those pins with this ball peen hammer effectively splay them out until they're tiny countersinks that I've made in there metal of the bolster and then after that we can finish the rest of the handle and hopefully when we eventually grind the rest of this off we'll be left with a nice seamless finish all right so my bolster is now attached solidly a little bit of epoxy in there good amount of elbow grease with the hammer and that's pretty damn well attached either did it manage to hit this edge a few times which I was pretty sure they're gonna happen but doesn't really matter too much because that's gonna be profile ground in any case to radius it off I said today I'm mostly gonna glue up the ivory which goes in the back there and then I've got that nice piece of g10 which alternates in pattern from black to gray and back again which we can then put up behind there to finish the rest of the handle [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] so the ivory in the red inlay is set nicely behind the bolster so what I've done now is I've taken there the red and gray that eliminated together earlier put our angle on the front here I'm gonna put a nice red liner in there then we're gonna glue all of that together like that so I should put a nice end from the line that runs along the inside here and then like a degree angle straight out of there and my plan is I'm basically gonna epoxy that onto it like so then once that has cured overnight being clamped all the while I'm basically gonna get my four mil drill bit drill out all these pinholes and then I'm gonna glue the other side onto here leave that overnight I'm gonna flip it over use the holes that I drilled to drill the other piece of g10 and then secure the pins at the same time and that will be the handle all blue Don really for shaping [Laughter] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Laughter] [Music] so the glues completely gone off now left it overnight so this is the complete assembly with all the different spaces and liners etc so my plan now is I'm just going to wrap up the blade with a bit of cardboard and electrical tape to make sure I don't think that when you scratch that Dad I'm going to jump back on the grinder and get rid of all of this and start profiling the handle shape [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] we do some detailing on the handle you can I finish radius in off these corners with their die grinder attachment on the dremel and then we're gonna make and so pattern on the scales here [Music] [Music] that's the pattern have to do in that Gemelli other sides not done yet but I'm going to do the other side exactly the same and then see how I feel about it [Music] just going to give us a quick sandblast improve the finish all over and then we'll start looking at the acid etching on the blade so finish be blasting everything here and we're gonna do a bit of a drizzle pattern with someone Karen's bestest ever firm cotton endorsed nail varnish so see what patterns we can get out of this okay we'll just let they go dry in the Sun for a few hours I'm now getting electorate edge my friends initials on to the blade I've gotten the vinyl cutter cut out his initials here about five mil tall and we're gonna stick this vinyl on to the blade and then use salt water and a 9-volt battery in order to get that deep into the metal okay so now the main blade that has been finished I'm just going to go over all of this nail varnish with acetone and take it off see if we left with some nice silver lines now gonna hit this with a little bit of tm-1 oil and a bit of 2,000 grit just to bring out the changes in the gradients around the blade where you can see the profiling okay and this is that g10 just after I've polished it and just washed it off in a little bit of soapy water again as this is a not a stainless steel blade I carve them still and need to keep some oil on the whole thing which is gonna help that pop even more so last but not least the most important thing about a knife is whether it cuts I've got some nice pieces of paper that I got given at the UK nice shirt by yeah it's company and it's absolutely perfect for either taking messages you

Channel: Branco Customs

Views: 183,591

Keywords: alec steele, best, blacksmith, blade, bladesmith, custom knife, custom knives, diy, diy knife, do it yourself, excellent, forged in fire, handmade, handmade knife, homestead knives, how to, how to make a knife, how to make knives, kitchen knife, knife, knife maker, knife making, knifemaker, knifemaking, knives, koss, make, maker, maker movement, making, making a gyuto, making a knife, sharp, simple little life, simplelittlelife, steel, tools, walter sorrells, youtuber, Warthog, Tanto

Id: 0HYRGeo7ufM

Length: 37min 20sec (2240 seconds)

Published: Wed Oct 31 2018