Creating a G1000NXI for MSFS2020

hello guys and welcome back to 737 diy sim here in brunei now today i'm going to take a step back from the 737 and hopefully continue the build with the cessna 172. i'm a great fan of microsoft flight simulator 2020 and i love everything all the aircraft in it what i want is a small cockpit desktop unit that i can just jump in and go for a flight and perhaps do some landing challenges now you've probably seen the complete unit here there are some more videos coming on the way the construction of the mip the construction of the avionics panel but i need another g1000 and in today's episode that's what we're going to create [Music] [Applause] [Music] so we're back inside and what's about to happen is probably going to be something very similar to how the fmc went we're going to use these tiny tactile switches so you can see the tactile switch here and i've gone around and put an led tester on the leds and found out which is the cathode and which is the anode i mark this tiny little black mark on the cathode now normally all the ones i've had in the past come with this mark on these ones don't and it's very hard to tell the length of the legs because they look identical so i've had to do a bit of manual thought and pre-prep them now from the fmc build a lot of people asked where'd you get these from i've discovered that you can get these from rs online however they cost a fortune i got mine from ebay and you get 100 for about 22 pounds and that's highly recommend them they are good little units and here we've got our first button cap you can see from the previous footage that i printed these in white pla these are resin printed and i sprayed them black they're now dry they dried for about two days i've got a small file here and all i'm going to do is gently rub the file across the top of the raised surface and it should take the top layer of paint off i'm going to turn it 180 degrees around and do it the other way to take any burrs off get my brush brush off the excess there we've got a button that can be backlit just got to put the tactile switch in so the cathode needs to go at the bottom push it in and that one just clipped in all by itself it's good to go same again number two yeah so that one's not going to click in so i need my screwdriver and i'm just going to squeeze the the legs together there we go and it positively clicks in and that will stop the button from falling out with the button cap sorted it's now time to sort out the frame again that's got engraved text on it it's been spray painted black we need to remove the top layer let's do that now and got my trusty file all i'm going to do is just go over the top and hopefully remove the top layer there we go and it really does only take a few seconds to get this done brush it off and there we've got our first frame completely done a couple of seconds work and it looks pretty good i think now people have suggested why don't i resin print it and then laser etch the parts if you probably just make out in the corner there let me spin the camera around and hopefully you can see that i do have actually a laser on the cnc machine here that i would normally use to etch the parts however not everybody's got a laser this is the simplest way i could find to do it however i will produce another version once the laser is working again because getting parts out here is an absolute nightmare let's put this thing together of course it's going to be really simple there's only four parts that's the got the left hand frame we've got the top here that's going to go together like that we're going to flip it over to the left hand frame and i've got this tiny little m4 by six millimeter screw ah it's not going to go in i don't think i've got too much paint in the hole so out comes my drill and very gently remove the excess there we go so hopefully these will go together now same for the base frame okay see if this one screws together yep that's nice and secure cool let's get our right hand side and there we have our frame time to install some buttons and we'll start with the push buttons at the bottom and again this should be quite a simple task of just feeding them through lining up the legs with the holes and pushing in there we go yeah it's not stuck it's got a good push and we just need to spread the legs i've got my screwdriver here and all we're going to do once more just bend the legs over to hold it in position and i'm just testing to make sure it doesn't stick because you don't want to build this assemble it all and find that you've got a sticky button that's just going to ruin it okay that's good only another 11 of those to go yeah that's good flip it over and i'm bending the legs to the outside again because if you bend them towards the inside they're going to touch each other there we go yep that's all the bottom buttons done now i've got to do the left hand frame starting with the autopilot i've got my phone next to me here so i've got an image to see where the buttons go in the correct order there we go and i've got to repeat that again as you can see it's quite a repetitive job just like it was on the fmc but it should all be worth it in the end there we go and there we have our frame all the buttons are in let's get the screen fitted next flip it over and we're going to install the 10.4 lcd screen upside down so the thick part is at the top and it goes sits nice and flush so we've got our 3d printed screen mounts and we've got the right hand side here that's going to go hopefully into these holes then we've got the left side mount and when i say it's the left side mount it's the left side as you're looking at it now so next up we've got the support assembly the arduino and the interface boards go on to here yep that slides back and forth hopefully locates correctly now we've got our lcd boards and they're going to hopefully just sit over in location and screw into place and finally the button board the menu board two more little screws just going to connect the display connector up hopefully without damaging it there we go that looks like it's in now we've got our arduino mount that's going to go on there so next i'm going to mount the pots but once you put the pots in it's very difficult to get to the wires below the transfer switches so i will wire the transfer switches up first hopefully you won't have as many wires as the fmc but i imagine these are gonna these are gonna stack up quite quickly there's nowhere near the amount of buttons as there was before though okay let's just heat shrink this down done hopefully our pot and bracket now will just fit in over the top of the wires and we've got some 2.6 millimeter screws and they're going to screw in from behind and we'll put the other pop bracket in okay then we've got our 3d printed volume knobs they're just going to slide over the top there's one there's two and the little white rings should light up afterwards next up are all the dual encoders i'm using prop wash sim dot com dual encoders and they come with the knobs as well and for the garmin 1000 they look absolutely ideal there are some additional 3d printed ones because the g1000 has a different shape and i'll show you those shortly but for the time being let's get these fitted that's going to push through the big holes and then we've got the little nuts to secure them on the other side there's one got quite a few of these last one at the bottom here and that leaves standard ec11 encoders for the last two holes now this one should be like a little joystick i've missed that functionality out it'll have the encoder positive and negative so we can zoom in and zoom out but we won't be able to move the map without the mouse not for the time being anyway i have ordered some little joystick buttons but they are very expensive okay so for the encoders in from behind locate the location locate the locating tang there we go on goes the nut change over from eight to ten whoa yeah i doubted myself then it looked bigger than 10 millimeters but it's not there we go give that a nip onto the other side cods or wallet right i forgot about this a socket won't fit in because the hole in the real thing is actually quite small and i think if i was to redesign this i would put a backing plate on just like the pots at the top here to make it a lot easier to fit at the moment i'm having to drive the nut around with a screwdriver not ideal but it works and it's secure okay let's fit some knobs now you get them in the right order well the standard ones i think are the common nav heading is definitely the triangle one yep there we go i think these are standard as well i think it's this one here that has the triangle on top yes it does there we go that leaves the nav which is definitely a standard good and finally the pan button or the range and is that going to stay on it's a bit loose excuse me it's a bit loose so i'm just going to splay the shaft and that's what our garmin 1000 looks like so far on the back got a few wires i think it's time to do some proper wiring and get this thing finished let me show you where i'm at i've connected all the grounds of every device so far so starting in the top left for me we're going from the the com transfer switch into the first in double dual encoder and it just keeps going along to every device all the way to the other side and it ends in the final dual encoder here and this is the single ground that will go to the arduino here i'm now going to go back and connect i hope you can see this in camera all these wires here to every single device and they're going to be the action lines that go to the pins on the arduino i'll get back to you in a sec let's start that time lapse so [Music] so [Music] do [Music] there we have all the components wired up the two volumes pots they're not wired because i don't really think i need to adjust the volume on the comm or the nav radios not yet and if i do it's simple just to add a couple of extra wires onto the arduino i'm gonna put that to one side just for a second and we're going to use a prototyping board i get asked this all the time what boards do i use i absolutely love these these are the key studio ones available from amazon they're bright yellow and black and let's pull one out there they are now we can put all our cables all our wires our resistors if we have any into these units and along with them we need some header pins i just need some male ones so pull these ones out one more for good luck there we go put them to the side bring our garmin back in these are all the tails that need to be connected and we're just gonna put the pins into the arduino that's all the header pins in we've got our board make sure the numbers face the top and hopefully i'm just going to feed those pins now into the holes okay i'm going to work my way along and solder all the pins to the board [Music] and there we have it guys there's the front of the garmin nxi g1000 turn it round and that's it fully wired it used a lot more pins i expected i think we used about 64 out of the 69 pins on the arduino from the front only there's like a couple of buttons it's because there's so many dual encoders with each dual encoder having five wires that's instantly 5 10 15 20 that's 25 pins just alone in the encoders so before i start programming let me bring the cessna panel back let's get this attached so it's in place and hopefully that'll be the support for it to sit into while i program it you can see that i've removed the old prototype one that's because i needed the screen to fit into this one here now this is an exact uh copy of the prototype it's just using resin instead of filament and i've used the screen out of the old unit hopefully this is going to sit in and fit perfectly and by the way guys the c172 instrument panel that's coming in another video very shortly once i get a few more parts created just making sure none of the buttons are sticking everything feels really good so far i've connected the screen up it's got its hdmi up to the laptop here naturally if i show you microsoft flight simulator of course it needs to update so we'll do that in the background that's not going to affect us right now you can see now that the windows screen is showing on the g1000 and all it is is the extended desktop from the laptop of course the first thing we need to do is tell moby fly what devices we've got connected to what pins here's my cheat sheet that i created earlier as we were building as we went along so all i need to do now is add the devices and button okay pin two is hotkey one no it's not it's hot key 12. there we go so hk is hotkey and that's the 12 buttons along the bottom there okay next up we've got the comm encoder which is this one here uh device encoder and i'm going to label this one is com out add device encoder that's going to be the comp inner encoder there we go next up we've got the compush add device button come on push okay that's all the devices set up make sure you upload it i do and that's that part done okay that's pretty cool let's see how we're doing on the update nearly done we've got the garmin on the screen let's head over to mobifly maybe flights there we've inputted our devices now we'll click on the new line and let's do the nav encoder first so nav outer encoder we'll edit the line we are the g1000 and we're going to scroll down and we're going to find the nav encoder there it is nav outer encoder and we're going to use microsoft events group because it's a generic panel it's going to be under microsoft generic avionics not camera selected the wrong one there we go and it's put us in as the autopilot out we don't want that we want all the way to the bottom here we are pfd because this is the on the left hand side and we're looking for there it is nav and if we turn it to the left it's going to decrease it so there we are on to the right we're going to select the exact same again group all the way down to microsoft generic auto avionics oh and then we find the same one yet again so it's pfd nav outer and this time it's going to be increase there it is hit ok ensure the line is active and then we are actually running we are so if i turn the outer knob now ah we're straight in it works on the screen here under nav you should see the 117 and up down it works no problem just make sure the inner knob doesn't work because we haven't programmed that yet and it doesn't it's still stuck at nine five now the easiest way to do this is just to simply duplicate the line change it to what it's now going to be and this is going to be the inner encoder remove the copy and then we're going to edit the line we're going to change the encoder to nav in and on left we're going to change it to the small decrease and on right we're going to change it to small increase hit okay and see if that works let's hide mobile flight for a second so you guys can see it on screen and the nine five should change now ah no worries nice and fast okay of course the nav encoder now has a third function and that's if you push it in and we need to program that next into maybe flight we are going to create a brand new line this time because this is a button and this is going to be the nav push edit the line yeah again it's the and it it's the g1000 card and we are now looking for this is gonna be nav push which i think is right at the bot or no it's heading a bit closer there we go enough push into mobile flight events of course it's going to be microsoft generic avionics and now we need to find the nav push which i think is actually next to the ones we've just selected so look for pfd coming down to nav there's the nav push and i'm not going to do anything else i'm not going to use the release right now i'm just going to test that okay so if i was to there we go that switches it let's see if it does it on here no back to moba flight what have i done wrong no i've not enabled it that's always a bad start here we go let's try again yay and you can hopefully see that when i push the dual encoder it switches between nav one and nav two how awesome is that okay moving on we've then got the nav transfer button and that takes it from nav one active to nav one standby and vice versa and what we're gonna do is because that's a button and the last one was a button we're just gonna copy or duplicate the line and we're going to change it to nav switch we're going to edit the line and once again change it from nav push and there should be one called nav switch there it is and now we need to find navs right there hit okay i'm just going to move off that line and back to it so it refreshes maybe fly and here we go going to push it and now the nav active and standby figures let me move this out of the way should swap over hurrah push it now if one changes over and we can do the adjustments switch it over makes it into the active how simple is that that's one one encoder and two buttons working on the g1000 already so simple now it's just a process of duplicating those exact steps for every single one i am not going to show you that because that would be boring as hell i'll just quickly run through it and then i'll get back to you at the end when it's all programmed before i program the rest i will issue this time the full wiring diagram the full pins that i used for each device and every event so you can just use that as a quick reference guide to program your own way let's put this into time lapse mode because this is going to take a little while even when just duplicating the lines and i'll get back to you when this is all done see you in a mo so while i was programming i've come across a button i cannot find and that is the v nav button on the left hand side here so we're going to head over to hophot.mhbuflight.com that's really quite difficult we're going to go to view contributions and in the preset panel here all i'm going to type in is vnav and hit enter and it's come up i'm going to select it and there's the code that i need i'm just going to press copy on the bottom there i'm going to head back over to mobifly not microsoft flight simulator and the button should be inserted there i'm going to duplicate the row name it v nav i'm going to edit the line uh change that to v nav so i've got to find it in the list there we go and we're going to change it from microsoft flight simulator events to custom input and all we're going to do is press control v and hit ok it's done it's that simple and you can do that with any of the buttons so here's the v-nav indicator here and it should turn white if we push it there we go you see the little bar on the screen there and on here we can release and it works let me finish up and i'll get back to you at the end again okay guys i think we are done that was a massive list it didn't take that long though because it's just selecting inputs i think it's all there i've got all the ticks making sure that active if the program is actually running i guess the only thing to do now is to push the buttons and see what happens so if we go to the hotkey 12 we should get the alerts tab up and we do oh that's a bonus nearest airports yeah we double tap that how about the time or what hockey so button 2 is currently not working so let's have a look why that's going to be hotkey2 it is the right input selected now because we found a button that isn't working the easiest way to fix this is to go to settings make sure that logging is enabled and debug is selected in the menu hit ok we should get the lines at the bottom of the screen here and if i push hotkey two okay so it's not registering in moby flight which obviously means it's more likely to be a wiring fault than it is to be a software fault okay and i'm gonna look around the back here it's one two okay definitely a wiring fault a bit of a monumental cock-up let me grab the other camera and i'll take you around the back and show you what i've done so here we go i've got my pen here around the back of the unit and hotkey two is this one here i'm gonna get the pen tip there we go and if the light's good enough you see this little little leg here that should have a ground wire on it and i have completely missed that button now so i'm going to have to uh quickly get the soldering iron out and attach a ground onto that bodge complete let's see if i push it now do we see it registered on the bottom of the screen and we do and i believe the screen actually changed as well so if i push hotkey 11 it went back again press the number two for inset it's working bonus okay let's go back oh in fact if we go there it gives us the option to go off and it has inset back on let's go back pfd dme should come up there it does so that button works bearing one hs hsi that looks pretty cool transponder back next up we've got the range and that's just simply left and right there we go you can see the map zooming in and the map zooming out oh i like that and then push in to pan now of course we haven't got a joystick that's yet to come in the next version but they are actually quite expensive to purchase we've got the direct to button yes that works menu button that works flight plan that works procedures works clear and enter because well actually if i go to menu and then press enter yes that works and then you then push clear so that's all the buttons on the right hand side we know the hotkeys works we know all the encoders work in fact we haven't checked the heading encoder and we can see the figure is moving just on the screen there again it helps if i move mobifly out of the way so heading is the here indicated by the mouse if i turn it there we go no problem the final knob we've got to check is the altitude knob here and that's indicated on the pfd screen in cyan up here at the top so the outer knob which should do the hundreds there we go and they've got the inner knob doing the thousands i actually think that's back to front but that's just a simple swap and then we've got our buttons here on the left hand side and because we're using a g1000 versus a g1000 nxi the g1000 has a separate auto pilot panel at the top which you can see in the picture and to get these buttons to work we've got the autopilot there you go and you can see this little white line appear switch that off then we've got the flight director you can see that highlights heading yet heading altitude now in my last video there were lots of comments of asking why i didn't connect the fmc to the cockpit well that's actually really simple and why i didn't show it it's because the cockpit is in a million pieces right now if we go inside i might show you that i think what we'll do is we'll do a microsoft flight simulator landing you're going to see how bad my flying is but you will get to see this unit in action bear with me and we'll change location see you in a sec behind me is the 737 it's in pieces that's coming in a later video i am completely updating all the wiring at the front here that's pushed back in front of me are the free display screens now they're 65 inches three of them beautiful screens i'm using the right hand one here in front of me for this cessna 172 sim i've got the alpha honeycomb yoke in front of me down here i've got the 737 motorized throttle i'm using that for the cessna at the moment in front of me i've got the cessna 172 panel and currently loading is microsoft flight simulator 2020 we're heading over to mula airport which is a natural reserve on the island of borneo here is surrounded by jungle and it's an absolutely fantastic place to visit it's got a high mountains with pinnacles on they actually are called the pinnacles and it's got some very interesting caves to visit beautiful natural park and it's got a lovely hotel situated right in the middle for ecotourism called the marriott mulu let's get started planes on the runway first of all we need to get the instrument panel onto the g1000 so let's head on inside and i'm going to hold down the right alt button hover over the g1000 screen and then left click on the mouse that'll bring it out we're going to drag that screen over to the g1000 display there we go and hopefully all i'm going to do now is press alt enter it maximizes it to the correct dimensions and we're good to go you can see that the direct 2 is flashing on the g1000 we're currently at mulu and we want to head over to anduki in syria so and dookie is whiskey yeah leave it across one bravo oh i'd always go the wrong way there's bravo then it's alpha and finally move across one is kilo i've gone the wrong way again i've got a long way around i think there we go i'm going to press enter that's good activate yes please that's that in there so you can see that we'll take off i'm going to head right and we'll set the altitude there we go to a thousand feet don't want to fly too high i actually want to see the tops of the trees i think we're prelim reset we'll do the rest once we're in the air nice long airfield let's get this throttle right up helps if i release the parking brake as well there we go and we're off i'm also going to adjust the screen because i don't need the mip in front of me now [Music] there we go now i've got no rudder pedals so that's half the excuse for not getting it right and we're up and away we're doing 60 knots 70 knots and slowly pull back and we're away perfect now i know it's telling me to go right but if i go left here we should see the mulu mountains which is pretty spectacular let's bring it slowly around love seeing the tops of the trees this is pretty much how they look in real life when we fly over the top looks like broccoli [Music] and there's the pinnacles in front of us some great caves to visit in this national park there we go so i think the first thing we'll do is we'll switch on the autopilot there we go [Music] that should level us out a thousand feet hopefully and we'll skim just the treetops and now that we've put undukie into the g1000 at the destination we can zoom out of the map and we can follow our course there we go [Music] [Music] [Music] okay guys that's it for this episode g1000 complete i've got to go away create another one the one with a better screen it's slightly bigger so i need to redesign it all i also need to get the 737 finished and back together that will do for now sim out

Channel: Heli Mech

Views: 71,832

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Id: B2yPAKXtyn8

Length: 42min 47sec (2567 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 24 2022