Coventry Style Die Head & Machining The Arbor .

well good day max again welcome back to the shop so we just got a quick little one I'm going to squeeze in here it's one of those little jobs you sort of know you got to do and it's very difficult to set time aside for it but uh it's got to happen so let's swing it out and show you what we're dealing with it's going to be a piece of tooling so we can use this and that so what we have to make is a holder for this is which is a centry um style geometric die head and I want to be able to use this in the small lathe so this will cover me like for Threads 8 mil 10 mil 38 that sort of um size threads um this is the smallest of all my geometric dyes and so basically all we need is a holder with a a m taper 3 tail and a socket to hold a die head and we're going to get it out of uh this piece of unium God knows what this is we'll see if it's too hard and nly to machine I I don't know might be might be right if it's too hard and ning nly to machine I'll uh I'll get another piece so let's head to the lath someone's marked Ms on the back of it I don't know why they do that put the bloody grade I mean that could be mild steel Mr squiggle medium to house who knows we'll give it a crack already got a sand in it but just want to make it a bit bigger I'm just going to pull it up against the center the existing Center so when I put my sander drill in it's I'm going to snap the tip off it being as this sort of TRS it up a bit that's a bit better [Music] [Music] bloody bird's nest bird's nest are the month there not having that let's change this tool all right [Music] still a bit of a bird's [Music] nest that's an improvement let's get rid of this crap there [Music] [Music] [Music] uh that's 37 we want to go to 25 so we got 12 mil to come off it [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] um I've just got a little step machine just there and and that's just um above the um minor diameter of our taper so we we'll take it down to there and we'll see how we're looking e so these um micro 100 tools um I haven't really used them before I mean I've used plenty of bra carbide before so it's a bit of an experimentation um people give them a pretty good wrap over there um and these are a couple that I um ordered and had sent over I got them from macm master car so um I just use a diamond lapping wheel just to sharpen them up and uh very good for seems you like if you just want to take a a TH or something off a bit of mild steel um it's quite good I actually brought them to use uh with our metal spraying our um Roto uh Roto te um tic torch that's the purpose why I brought these as we have a bit of that coming coming up that's good [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] I had a few people ask you know about a riser for this milling machine and it's something I had thought of in the past if I put one I don't think I ever will because I like speed control right there reversing switch right there and reaching up to under the draw bar to change the tools everything's with an easy reach once you start putting a riser on things start getting up there and you lose the magic of a Bridge Port that is it's so everything's in the right spot and it's so light and easy to operate so anything bigger will go in the um big Mill behind us there except if it's slotting yeah but our new mount bracket will uh solve those hyp problems good thing I didn't strip the setup down so we've got to cut the Tang so I've got an old Balland Mill and I'll just give this a uh just a bit of a quick dress up on the diamond lapping wheel so now we got the slotting head on the bridge port it's limited my travel of the um arm the ram back that way so I can either move the machine out from the wall which I don't want to do or when we make our new bracket make it in such a fashion that that slotting head can be articulated around 90° and then I don't have to move the mill out from the wall that's something we have to keep in mind [Applause] [Applause] for [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] I [Music] for for I changed the bar over because this smaller bar has a polished insert and it's really good gives you a nice fine finish [Music] [Music] get a size we should be pretty well there if not will be pretty bloody close the uh tail of our um die head is uh 1 in so we're just a couple of tents under an inch there let's check our die head well that's going to be that's going to be close might even that's it beautiful spot on all right I'll just break this edge here [Music] okay so we just have to drill and tap a couple of holes in the side and they'll pull up oops uh on the flats here [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] all right we're ready to give it a go and uh cheers Rob that um gunpoint tap you sent me over just tapped its first hole work the treat thanks mate so we will get the inside of the holes D bird and that's this part complete just um poking me head outside the side door of the workshop here I don't know how you know like what's going on the rest of the world but with this weird weather like it's about it's just over 26° or just under bloody 80 bananas and like it's 2:00 in the afternoon and we haven't had a decent shower of rain since uh December yeah it has rained in Perth but not here everywhere else gets rain but um this area doesn't so yeah well so much for winter well that's actually not that far off but uh usually we've had a fair bit of Rain by now and the temperatures have dropped off but not to be so our completed Arbor what the plan is that will go into there and number three Moss taper so so it'll fit out the lathe we generally use I've got three more larger ones so later on when the jfm LA is running I'll make adapters for these and we'll use that as a demo for the turn uh the taper turning attachment cuz we'll do the Moss tapers we'll do uh Moss taper number four adapters for these ones and we'll use the tape of turning attachment I know I ripped through this pretty quick but uh yeah so our centry style geometrical self-releasing die head here um they're a great bit of gear to have um providing you you have a comprehensive set of the um thread chasing dyes that go with them um I've got quite a few but I've got a few gaps so this these are it's not a genuine centry it's a it's uh they're copies the it's a CH style is what these are called CH because it has a the rear part um bolts like your your aror actually arm bolts on them so let's um take a closeup at the uh thread chasing dyes yeah so the Dy all uh this locating slot um to keep them all in Phase with each other now I'll show you this bigger there's a larger one be a bit clearer so they have there's a lot of information on the die so we only really need to know this number here or this letter here which is an S so this designates what these or the material that these thread ch facing dyes are made to cut the S is for mild steel I think you can use it on copper and malb cast iron according to the info um the thread 581 TPI UNC that number there and that number there doesn't really concern us concern us these however do okay this is number four of the set and I believe the 08 is the number in the set so if we look on these ones we'll have uh that R 19 r19 so those numbers all have to be the same so it is a match set so let me show you how we load the dyes off before we got the dyes here too the idea of these when it cuts the thread it's only cutting on that first four tooth the rest of the teeth providing the chases have been sharpened correctly the tip of the teeth is above Center so it cuts on that first one and then the remaining ones keep the Dy in Pitch with the thread there goes an airplane where flight path is pretty close to our property here so i' load the the chases just this has this retainer plate on the front which we remove and there's our dyes in there so these all uh hook [Music] out like so I'll just get a and give that a wipe so down the bottom you can see that cam ring there so that's what actuates that's what locates the uh the Dy it's in its cocked position at the moment we can we can uncock it like that you'll see those retainers come around so to load the dies uh we're going to put in that was a set of um 8 mm ones we took out and we're going to put in a set of 38 UNC so doesn't matter which position we started but they are all numbered 1 2 3 and four so you start anywhere number one number two number four there number three okay so yeah double check one 2 3 four always in a clockwise Direction regardless if their left or right hand thread dies um if you run leftand thread dieses you still put them in numbered in the clockwise dire ction the plate goes back on okay so she ready to go it's in the cocked position what you have on the back is a lever for roughing and finishing so this lever just slightly opens and closes the the chases what it does it moves that um that ring that the slot runs in just shifts that around or shifts the whole lot around a little bit and it just Alters the dimension in there and this knob on the side rotates the whole lot inside as well and this will give you your fine adjustment so what we do now is we we need like a gauge to set that die so we could use a bolt and that'll do it so cuz this is a 38 UNC thread we're just going to cut it on one pass so we'll put it in its finishing position and then we'll just I'll go and get a bolt and we'll screw the bolt in so I just use a bolt as a gauge we'll screw the bolt in we'll just feel a play on it we're just bring this tightness adjuster up till we feel it firm up on the bolt and then nip this lock up here okay let's put it in the machine we'll give it a go eh so we just slip our holder in the tail stock nip up our lock screws find a victim bar turn down to 38 now I've got a couple of these to do so I'm just going to set this 50 mm sticking out and we want to be threading this screw cutting speed with these approximately 50% your turning speed remember they're highs speeded steel D so we're going to run our lathe on um 160 um RPM right now I'm just going to uncock the Dy so to uncock it just pull it forward like that now I want to cut our thread let's get a Sharpie proximately I want to stop 20 mm from the shoulder so we're just going to bring our tail stock up just move this piece of swarf out get out get out of there right we're going to use our Carriage against our tail stock to lock so we come up to there I'll bring you around over my side so you can see what's I've actually done [Music] there so basically what I've just done there is I marked where where I want the thread to stop and then I'll push the toil stock up hard up against the the carriage and the carriage is locked now the end of the D is pretty well level with where I want it to stop cutting and and that's a point where I want the d to disengage so when the the dye is in its cocked position we'll push with the tile stock the D will pick up and start cutting the thread and when the tail stock which has been dragged forward by the D when it contacts The Carriage the tail stock will stop moving the D will continue to move forward a fraction and then uncock recck it and let's bit a cut and oil on and we'll give it a go [Music] so that's our thread it's cut a very nice thread check it with our nut and we a really nice fit on the nut there's no excessive play in there whatsoever so we hit our sizing on our adjustment of the Dy pretty well bang on straight up so these work really well in a turret lathe or capston lathe where you've got the your big hand wheel there to control it all and proper proper stops and things like that um they I mean in a center lathe I've always just used the carriage to stop it it's just a good thing I don't have a a drro scale um in the way there let's do one more [Music] [Music] well there we are that's um bit of a different video but just a bit of a brief um look at a different method um for screw cutting in the workshop so I said these are are in their element on a turret LA or capston L um they are to get a good set of them uh it is there are well it's not cheap put it that way by the time you get a good collection of the um the dyes uh thread chasing Dy that go with them I mean I have quite a reasonable set that cover most of the common threads that we use so um like i' I've used to use these a lot of lot of times a lot of years ago all the time time so um that's I know what they're like and that's why I wanted to get another set I know how valuable they are in the shop so that's it basically yeah centry die head self opening oh cheers um hopefully got something out of it or not and uh see you next time

Channel: Max Grant ,The Swan Valley Machine Shop.

Views: 8,999

Keywords: tool post grinder, internal & external lapping, jig grinding attachment, lathe, machine shop, milling machine, tool & cutter grinding, machining videos, home machine shop, toolmaking, lathe maintenance, ID grinding

Id: hJkWd1irSlA

Length: 44min 28sec (2668 seconds)

Published: Sat May 18 2024