Completely Rebuilding This 5.3L LS Engine From Top To Bottom!

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hey what is happening everybody welcome back to the channel if you missed the last video go check it out I have it linked up in the corner we went through and I did an in-depth video on how to measure out all your bearing clearances your piston to cylinder clearances we even measured cam bearings and everything on this LS is measuring out perfect so now it is time to get this thing together I am so excited it's been like over three weeks since I tore this thing down hopefully I remember how it goes back together I've never messed with uh LS before so this is going to be a first on putting it back together we'll see if it works but that being said let's get to work so we still got all of the bearings all the main caps on the Block so basically we are going to take all the main caps off all the bearings are fine they're in place I cleaned them all cleaned everything before we put it together so we're just going to pull the main caps off we're going to use this assembly Lube just because this engine is going to be sitting for a while before we start it so we want something thick this is really thick it's not going to run off of the bearing surfaces while the engine is sitting so we're going to put this on the crankshaft journals and the main bearings on the Block and on the Caps make sure everything is lubricated we're going to get the crank in get our torque down and then we can start throwing pistons and rods in now one tool that is an absolute must when installing Pistons is one of these uh these tapered ring installers or green compressors I've used the adjustable kind actually when I did my last motor I did the adjustable guide and the Rings just kept slipping out it was just a major problem these right here this is a tapered it's a specific size you can see this is a 3.8 inch bore but you have to buy one of these basically for every build but it's so so nice you stick it on top of the block you drop the piston in and you just pounded it you don't have to sit there and crank down the ring compressors like the other style that actually they're like expandable so you clamp them down and they really don't clamp that tight it's really hard to get the the Rings clamped all the way in and then they're so thin and they can actually move a little bit you know one side will pop up and your ring will slip out when you're trying to drop it into the bore it's just a pain in the ass this makes this job so easy I would highly recommend it they're like 40 bucks well well worth it you don't end up breaking a ring off trying to get it in the bore so that is the game plan I'm excited let's get right to work I'm stoked to get this thing together let's go foreign [Music] thank you [Music] [Music] thank you foreign [Music] [Music] as far as torquing these main caps my machinist suggested that we just torque these to 65 foot-pounds now I kind of wanted to do a little bit of testing because the factory GM actually recommends you do 15 foot-pounds and then 80 degrees on the inner bolts and 51 degrees on the outer bolts so I followed that sequence and then I hit it with the torque wrench and they were pretty much right at 65 foot-pounds and he also suggested 45 for the rods so I'm gonna do the same thing with the rods the rods to kind of do the same thing with 15 foot pounds and then depending on what design you have either 60 or 85 Degrees I think I'm just going to torque those to 45 and call it a day so if you guys are curious 65 foot-pounds on the mains and 45 foot-pounds on the rods will be just fine also I'm going to pull the side bolts off because these are actually sealed with some sealant I'm going to take a little bit of RTV and seal these back up just so they don't leak oil outside the block [Music] thank you [Music] all right foreign [Music] would you take a look at that guys what a beautiful sight we got all the Pistons and rods and everything is torqued down I gotta say like I said earlier this tool this little tapered ring compressor is a must-have I probably spent half the time doing eight Pistons as last time doing four pistons on my 22R this took probably half the time and there's twice as many pistons you just there's no messing around with it you just put the piston in you push it down and it goes right in no problem so we are ready to go I want to get my if I want to focus on trying to get these heads on but before that I want to get the camshaft in make sure everything is good with that and then I want to throw the heads on because I have to measure for a rocker or push rod length I just want to make sure I have the correct push rods because we did deck the block and we did deck the heads might have a different size head gasket I'm not really sure um plus some of these uh push rods don't really look that great you can see that one's almost like cut at an angle a little bit it was definitely wearing so I have to order push rods anyway but I want to measure and make sure that we get the right length so that is a game plan we'll get the cam in uh if you guys are curious I don't think it actually showed you which cam I ended up going with um this is the chopacabra this one is supposed to be pretty thumpy down low out of idle so obviously this is going in the FJ it's not going for you know High horsepower so I just kind of wanted something that sounds good and I think that thing's gonna sound good not not saying it's not a good cam it's a Texas Speed cam it should be a really good cam I just want one that's sound good so that is a game plan let's get the cam lubed up get it dropped in and then from there I guess we can do the valley cover well I don't even think we need to do that we could do uh lifters and heads and then just do our rocker or our push rod length [Applause] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] thank you well we're trying to get these heads on but the bolts I had sent I bought from Michigan Motorsports I guess they sent me the short style these ones take the longer bolts so you can see that is not going to work I think AutoZone actually has uh felpro makes these bolt kits but that's the longer style I need right there so I'm gonna run to town to AutoZone hopefully those felpros aren't complete crap I think they're actually these might even be felpro I don't know they're not really branded but either way I need them so I'm gonna run to AutoZone see if I can scrounge up so the right bolts [Music] you know what's kind of annoying I pulled these dowel pins out of this block before I brought to the machine shop and the Machine has installed these new dowels now these things for some reason there's no chamfer on them for one and they just I cannot get the head on the other side that already got on I had to actually replace one of the dowels with the stock ones but for some reason these things are extremely tight in the block and I'm having a hell of a time getting them out but I can't get the heads on without at least replacing one of these so I'm here torching it I got pliers I don't have a dowel puller so we got pliers we're gonna get this thing out and swapped out because it's the only way I can get these heads on [Music] thank you [Music] well we got something that resembles an engine again so what I want to do now like I said I want to check the push rod length so I got this tool here this is a Texas Speed push rod length Checker so basically what you do is you replace the push rod with this and this is adjustable so you can spin this thing out and every turn on this I believe is 50 thousandths so what you basically do is you can see it is 6.8 inches when it's fully collapsed so you'll take 6.8 inches you'll get this thing in here you get the rocker arm on installed and everything and then you'll adjust this to where you take all the lash out of the rocker arm to where there's no play in it you'll take that measurement you'll add 6.8 to it and then you'll add I believe 70 thousandths for Lift or preload and then that gives you the length of your push rod so what I'm going to do is just kind of I know it's going to be close to this obviously so I'm going to count my turns out until it's just about the same length as the push rod I pulled out and then we're going to put it together like I said with the rocker arm in there and we'll I'll show you all how to measure everything out and how to get your number four uh push rod length one very important step I forgot to mention is we need to make sure the cylinder you're working on the cam is on the heel so luckily I have the valley cover off so I can just look down in here I can see the number one lobe is pointed up basically what I want to do is point the the lobe on the cam away from where the lifter for this rocker is going to hit that lope so I'm going to turn the motor over till that that lobe on the for the intake on this side is pointed down and I'm gonna you don't need to check every single hole you do probably it's probably a good idea to check intake and exhaust just to make sure that the cam is the same on intake and exhausted but like I said you don't need to do every single hole just just focus on cylinder one and we'll rotate that around and we should be good well I guess I got lucky I went 11 turns out I just kind of eyeballed it with the other push rod and you can see there's a little bit of side to side movement that means that there's not too much you know the The Rocker isn't pre-loaded right now onto the lifter um there's still a little bit of movement there but up and down you want there to be no lash no play you can see there's no play at all now instead of doing you know what they what they recommend with the counting each turn and 50 thou on each turn I think it's just going to be a lot easier just to pull this thing out like this careful not to move that around and then I'm just going to take my calipers and come in here like this and use that measurement so we got .484 so we're going to take what was it 6.8 yeah 6.8 so we'll go 6.8 Plus uh 0.484 equals 720 8 4 and then uh I I believe all to double check I believe these push rods want 70 thou so we'll go plus 0.07 and that is a seven three five four so I did all my math again went over everything one more time we are still right at 7.35 the factory length is 7.4 hopefully I can find one a set of these in town I'm gonna go call around if not we're gonna have to order it but uh we still got a bunch of other stuff we got to do all right next on the list oil pump while a lot of people just bolt these on and call it good and just send it I'm gonna go through the extra steps to actually align it so what we got to do is we got to pull this cover off we got to get the pump on the engine and then we take feeler gauges and and basically you want to Center the pump the insides of the pump um so that you know there is not offset and rubbing on the case of the pump or anything because these aren't dowel the mounting points for the block so the pump will move around on the Block a little bit so let's get this cover off we'll get this lightly bolted on the Block and then I'll show you what we're doing with field gauges foreign so I got four feeler gauges here two of them are 1.5 thou and two are two thousands basically what we want to do is Center this gear in the case so that the gear isn't you know rubbing on the case so we're gonna try two thousands first and we're just gonna basically try to wrap it around like that on the top and the bottom and then we'll tighten our pump bolts and that will Center this gear in the housing all right so now you can see we got the top feeler gauge here shoved all the way in the bottom gauge down there shoved all the way in and those were two thousands they actually fit really good so it almost wraps around the entire gear so you know that thing is centered now we can torque these oil pump bolts down and if everything goes well we should be able to pull those out they both should be able to pull out just fine and dandy and we should have an aligned oil pump [Music] um [Applause] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] thank you [Applause] foreign [Music] [Music] [Applause] foreign [Music] [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] we did it guys this engine is backed together with the exception of the push rods and rocker arms I did have to order up push rod so I couldn't find any in town though should be here in a few days we can throw the push rods rockers and get everything buttoned up on this now I haven't ordered a water pump there's a few different styles of water pump that I haven't really decided which one I want to go I may go I think it's a newer Camaro where it the spout comes out like right here on the front and it's going to be a lot closer to the outlet on my radiator so I may go that way with doing that we would have to kind of cut up and modify the accessory bracket but that's not a big deal but we'll figure that out later on next video we got to get this thing back in the truck because I want to start my suspension and I want to do it with the engine and transmission in just so I know for a fact everything's gonna clear that's the biggest biggest problem that we're probably going to run into is clearance issues on what I have planned for the suspension now I'm super excited this bill is about to get real crazy so you guys are going to love it definitely stay tuned for upcoming videos we're going to get on suspension here very very soon so I am stoked I hope you guys enjoyed the video we got a brand new brand new LS about everything in this motor is now brand new so this thing should run really really good and with this cam this thing should sound pretty sweet either way guys I really hope you enjoyed the video I want you to smash that Thumbs Up Button comment subscribe we'll see the next one [Music] thank you [Music]
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Channel: Austin Niemela
Views: 200,963
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: toyota, 4x4, 4wd, lifted, truck, hilux, pickup, swap, motor swap, boost, 4 wheeling, offroad, lift, mods, modification, building, smoke, coal, austinniemela, austin, niemela, how to, diy, at home, fab, fabrication, bumper, rebuild, avrcustoms, build, land, cruiser, fj, fj40, bj40, fj80, bj, ls, 5.3, 6.0, chevy, lsswap, tons, 40's, axle swap, full width, dana60, dana, super, duty, 4l60e, rust, engine, 5.3L, pistons, rods, crank, camshaft, texas speed, measuring, bearing, clearance, piston, cylinder, oil, refurbish, 5.3l, ls1, ls2, ls3, ls6, ls7
Id: 8TQZkpkubcc
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 23min 42sec (1422 seconds)
Published: Sat May 13 2023
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