COMPLETELY DIY BEDROOM RENOVATION | Modern Builds

hey everybody my name is mike montgomery and in today's video we're going to be doing a completely diy bedroom renovation like this on modern builds [Music] so welcome to my bedroom as you can tell it needs a lot of work and we're going to be updating just about everything from this ugly carpet on the floor to that terrible popcorn texture on the ceiling so let's go ahead and get started [Music] this demo day my favorite and first we need to tear out this ugly carpet and see what's underneath i used a sharp utility knife to cut this carpet into manageable sections since i'll be removing all of it myself not to mention doing this made it so that i could fit all these pieces into my trash can once the pieces of carpet were out i started rolling up the carpet pad to expose the concrete underneath i was really curious to see what this slab looked like underneath and i was happy to see that it was in pretty good shape although there was a lot of glue stuck to it my next step was to remove all of the baseboard and door trim and i used a wonder bar which worked really well in pro tip if you're removing trim that's been painted over make sure and score the corner of that trim before removing it that way it doesn't peel away a lot of that paint with it i picked up this four inch wide floor scraper from home depot to remove the adhesive that was holding the carpet pad to the concrete slab it worked really well to begin with but as i used it it started to dull out so i switched to a razor blade scraper that worked fantastic it removed the carpet glue basically perfect and anytime it went dull or if a blade snapped i just threw in a new razor blade no problem and i'll be sure to leave a link to everything i'm using down in the description now that our concrete floors are super smooth the last thing i needed to demo out was the closet first i removed the sliding mirror doors which i'm going to be painting and reusing and then i followed the same steps that i did earlier tearing out all of the carpet trim and shelving that was in the closet already [Music] removing popcorn ceilings is a relatively simple process but it is quite a bit of work and preparation is key you'll want to fill up a garden sprayer with warm water and a few drops of dish soap and then spray your whole ceiling down saturating that popcorn texture that sealing texture will soak up the water and become really soft and soupy which scrapes really easily this allows the texture to be removed in sheets rather than creating a ton of dust like dry scraping would do and this is where i should probably mention that if you're working on an older house make sure and test it for asbestos before scraping and no matter what make sure and suit up with some safety gear especially a good respirator doing my first scrape on the ceiling was so satisfying it came off super clean in one large sheet amazing [Music] but i did realize that it was still a little bit dry so in each section before i scraped it i used my sprayer to saturate it one more time you'll know if the popcorn texture is wet enough if it removes in sheets without over saturating and damaging the drywall that's on the ceiling this step was really fun and i think the footage is oddly satisfying so i'm gonna go ahead and stop talking and let the time lapse run enjoy [Music] [Music] and even though i didn't mask off my walls i did throw some plastic sheeting on the ground before scraping the floors and you can tell here that it was really worth it super pro the newly exposed drywall on the ceiling did have some imperfections so i fixed those by throwing on some joint compound and sanding them smooth and with that we can move from working on the ceiling to working on the walls [Music] i'm going to be doing what's called a skim coat on all of my interior walls for this house the general idea is to get a bunch of joint compound and then thin it down with water enough that it could be rolled on with a paint roller then you apply a thick coat of that joint compound onto the wall flooding the surface and smoothing out the existing texture on the walls i did this before once for the projection wall in my attic to home theater video and i'm really excited to try out a whole room on this first coat i did make the mistake of using a standard 3 8 inch nap roller which just couldn't pick up enough of the joint compound to apply a thick coat so after knocking everything down and smoothing it out with my drywall knife i mixed up a second coat this time using an inch and a quarter nap roller which was able to pick up a whole lot of this joint compound and build up a thick flood coat this joint compound starts to dry relatively quick so while it was still workable i used a 10 inch drywall knife to smooth out the texture as much as possible in general the wider your drywall knife is the better it'll just give you a larger reference area for flat but remember on this first flood coat we're just trying to build a thick layer we're not going for perfect quite yet as i worked around the room i started gaining confidence my technique improved and i got better results as i went and i'm going for a no trim look around my baseboards and my door opening so that's why you see me working so much on these corners trying to get them as smooth as possible [Music] and once i let that joint compound dry overnight i sanded everything with a pole sander and 120 grit paper my goal here is just to sand back any of my high points i don't want to go too aggressive digging into this layer that we just built up [Music] and after that i rolled on a second thick coat with that inch and a quarter nap roller this time i focused a little bit more trying to get a smooth finish with my trowel work rather than just trying to build up a thick layer but it still wasn't perfect so i came back with that pole sander one more time and took down any of my high points after that was sanded the last thing i did was just come back with my drywall knife and spot check anywhere that there was a negative space that needed filled i also backfilled the gap between the walls and the floor since i'm going for a no baseboard look this will give me a really clean museum or gallery style finish in general drywall work can be super time consuming but now that it's complete we can move on to paint i'm using bare ultra pure white for the walls and ceiling this has good coverage and only needs about two coats with no primer i used a classic 3 8 inch nap roller which worked fantastic i started with the ceilings and then worked my way around the room on the walls [Music] i was really excited once i saw this first coat this whole room is starting to come back together really exciting this video isn't sponsored by bear but i've had good results with pretty much all of their products so anytime i'm trying something new i usually default to that brand alright everybody it is time to paint the floors it is paint day number two and i am super excited after i finished painting up the walls i cleaned up the floors and i used a pre-made concrete patch from quikrete to fill in any of the voids that were made from removing the carpet tack strip once that dried i came back with what's called a honing block for concrete and i used it to grind down any high points this was my first time using this tool and it worked really great i highly recommend it and after that i used my flush trim woodworking saw to separate the joint compound where it met the concrete floors apparently having concrete floors in drywall or joint compound touching can cause moisture or mold problems so separating this little bit of material is going to allow for an air gap that keeps everything dry i'm happy to report that this works great and looks awesome there's only about a 64th or a 32nd inch reveal i've always wondered how easy it is to paint old concrete floors and how durable it really is for a residential space so i figured i would try it out here overall i used two gallons of this one part garage epoxy floor paint and i got really good results and i've got to say the coverage was fantastic even after the first coat [Music] all right let's check it out this is after the first coat is done and wow that looks so good the directions do recommend a second coat though and they say to do it in a cross hatch pattern and that's why you see me doing that here aside from scraping and cleaning up the concrete slab i did not use any kind of degreasing or etching product and i got a really good bond from this concrete i also decided not to put any kind of sealer or clear coat on it i'm just curious to see how this holds up over time and i'll be sure to do an update with what i find out and before people comment yes i know that there are some cracks in the foundation and i could have filled those up before painting but i've got a plan for all of these cracks later on so i left them [Music] so how cool is it that these old panels are a perfect fit i'm going to be turning these into a pegboard modular shelf wall behind the bed this is something similar in the bathroom renovation but this time i'm going to execute a little bit better let's get started first i used a drywall square to lay out a grid everywhere i'm gonna drill a hole for this pegboard the holes are spaced out eight inches apart vertically and horizontally with a four inch border around the edge of the panel after that i grabbed all of my inch and a quarter bits and i tested them to see which one gave the best fit with the dowels that i bought i'm looking for the snuggest fit possible [Applause] it's a little loose this one's definitely tighter but it wasn't as clean of a cut yeah definitely a little more snug oh and this one is the best yet yeah i think the forstner bit's the way to go i was happy to see that the forstner bit gave me the best fit because typically that gives the cleanest cut i did my best to drill as straight as possible and if i were doing this project again i would have put something to back my panel that way i wouldn't get as much blowout on the back side of the holes that i'm drilling this process was a whole lot of work but super worth it all right that's one down two to go [Music] and in this clip you can see me cutting an opening to fit around the air conditioning in the corner then i did a quick test fit and made sure that everything was level to the earth and we could start getting after it and then all we have to do is check and make sure this edge is level if it is then we'll trim the opposite one that matches the wall to fit it all right now we'll check and see this level [Music] and next i used my magnetic stud finder called a stud buddy to mark all of the locations of the two by four studs behind the drywall i'm going to be creating a face frame of horizontal two by material laid flat for these panels to mount onto [Music] and it was convenient timing that my dad was staying in joshua tree with me for the week that i was putting up this whole pegboard assembly having the extra pair of hands was really great and it was a ton of fun getting the build together overall i used five of these horizontal boards and i made sure that they were centered in between the holes that we drilled for our panels we took the time to pre-sand these panels up to 150 grit before assembly we just thought it would be a lot easier and convenient to do in the shed and after that i laid out and drilled holes for all of the lag screws that i'm going to be using to connect these panels onto that 2x4 face frame and after a couple quick alterations we could put the first panel into the corner and install it with those lag screws [Music] all right so we've got one down we had to alter this one quite a bit but the next two parallels are going to be much closer to full sheets let's do it between each of my panels i used these eighth inch spacers that way i got a nice reveal between each of my sheets this is the same thing that i did in my shed to workshop transformation i thought it looked really cool there so i wanted to repeat it inside the house and as you can see despite the fact that our plywood has amazing looking grain it was warped quite a bit but we worked from the bottom to the top making sure to do one horizontal row at a time [Music] and here you can see that the left edge of our third panel extends past the edge of our horizontal two by fours and that's because we're going to cap it off with the vertical 2x3 butted up to the edge [Music] i used considerably longer lag screws on this run because i was connecting the plywood and the two by threes through the drywall and into the 2x4 stud behind it and i'm not trying to brag here but i've got to say this wall looks super cool i broke down another sheet of that three-quarter inch radiata pine plywood into pieces that were the same width as nominal one by sixes and one by eight boards my original plan was to use solid select pine boards but i went to home depot and they were all so twisted and warped i decided to cut mine out of plywood i cut a few different length shelves out of each width board and then i cut my dowels so that they would be recessed three quarters of an inch from the edge of my shelf and the whole selling point of this pegboard wall is the modularity of it you can configure the shelves in different ways and it can be constantly changing to suit whatever you need not to mention it looks super pro and that is how you build a plywood pegboard wall what's so awesome about this setup is that it's all modular you can move these shelves around and rearrange it for whatever suits your needs best so as you can see the options are endless but before i commit to anything i need to know what the bed is going to look like in this space centered on this wall so i guess that's just the perfect segue to moving on to the bed and i actually made an entire youtube video all about how to build this diy modern platform bed with built-in storage that's currently live on extra space storage's youtube channel who happens to be the sponsor of today's video links to that video and extra space storage's blogs where you can find tons of diy storage solutions will be down in the description if you didn't know extra space storage is the second largest owner operator of self-storage facilities in the u.s in fact they are the largest self-storage management company in america extra space storage has over 1900 safe secure storage facilities across the country that include rv boat and business storage in total extra space storage has approximately 1.4 million self storage units for a grand total of about 149 million square feet of rentable storage space wow so whether you're moving out or moving in or just need a little bit of extra space make sure and check out extra space storage links for everything will be down in the description now let's get back to the build [Music] the corner of this bedroom has great natural light with these windows and i want to incorporate a custom bookcase made out of two by eights that i'm gonna make right now [Music] i used my circular saw and a 12-inch speed square to cut all of my boards to length and then anywhere that i had boards intersecting in my bookshelf i cut half lap joints these are a really useful utility joint that all diyers should be comfortable making or at least trying essentially what we're doing is creating an interlocking joint by removing half of the material from each of the intersecting boards that way they fit together just like lincoln logs i cut the edges of each of my joints straight with a circular saw and speed square and then removed all of that material by cutting it out with the jigsaw just like with all diy this doesn't have to be perfect but you want this to be as snug as possible it's convenient to have a scrap board around to test your fit as you're working that way you don't cut away too much material in pro tip anytime you're laying out joints for pieces of wood that you've already cut it's convenient to use those actual pieces you'll be using to lay out your marks rather than just measuring with a tape measure that way if there's any small inconsistencies or imperfections in your cuts your joints are custom built for your boards rather than being slightly off relying on measurements having a couple files is a great way to square up all of the corners of your joint especially since jigsaws have a hard time keeping the blade perfectly at 90 degrees i used a whole lot of clamps to try and get this bookcase as square and locked in as possible before i started driving in screws this is a really large assembly for one person to do not to mention all of these boards had a little bit of warp and twist that i was using clamps to work and force out and as i worked i just focused on one joint at a time making sure each time it was really square and everything gradually came together and locked in nicely oh man this is awesome the second bookcase was a repeat of the same steps with different dimensions the only big difference is that i used these two by four spacer blocks between all of my shelves where it's going to meet the other bookcase i installed these pieces temporarily by toe nailing them with my brad nailer after that my buddy brett mcafee from the channel skull and spade came by and we moved these bookcases into the bedroom and we barely were able to fit these through the doorways [Applause] [Music] [Music] all right [Applause] i hope this fits i measured and cut everything but i haven't seen it in place yet so let's slide it down [Music] i'll worry about that window reveal later on we went ahead and put the second bookcase in place and then i started installing everything by using pocket screws to drill the bookcase into the 2x4 studs behind the drywall oh awesome and shout out to this little pocket hole jig i think it was only 15 or 20 bucks really convenient and now you can see why i used those 2x4 braces for the second bookcase unlike another 2x8 like i did for the first the two by fours are just there to keep everything in place for the move and to help line up all of my shelves while i get it installed onto the wall and i used two and a half inch pocket screws where those shelves butted up to the existing bookcase for the low shelves i installed them on the bottom and for the high shelves i installed them on the top so they were relatively hidden and then i could use a hammer to knock out the 2x4 braces between the shelves and after this much work i figured it would be really silly to go and buy a closet rod so i decided to go over to make a range and see what kind of material was available and i found this three-quarter inch rebar that's got awesome texture and should work perfect i used my angle grinder with an abrasive cutting wheel to create a miter joint essentially in this piece of rebar that i could fold back into a 90 degree corner [Music] on each of these closet rods one side is going to need to be bent while the other is going to go straight into the bookcase and this is where i should probably say i am not good at welding but i can get the metal to stick together and no matter how ugly my weld is i can always grind it smooth [Music] i welded a mounting plate onto the side of the closet rod with a bend and then i drilled a three quarter inch hole into the side of the bookcase so that the closet rod can slide right into it i used a level to make sure the closet rod was sitting flat and then i screwed it into the wall [Music] in a few of these places i got really lucky and i was able to screw right into some of the studs and anywhere that i didn't i used 50-pound rated drywall anchors now that that's installed i wanted to continue this diy theme throughout the entire room and make my own curtains i grabbed a few yards of this white cotton duck canvas that i'll be using first i cut my pieces to size and then in half and use some fabric adhesive to create a hem on the top of each of these curtain panels i made the mistake of clamping the canvas with some spring clamps and wood and some of that wood actually got glued to the fabric so just glue it and leave it after that i got a grommet setting kit and that's what i'm going to be using to hang it from the rod i had never installed grommets before this and i found out that it was really easy to do all you have to do is punch a hole into your fabric and then insert one side of the grommet through that hole then place your second part of the grommet down and use a hammer to tap it into the die after a few hits everything squishes and grabs and it's a really cool mechanical fastener for fabric i can see how this would be super useful across all kinds of diy projects so i'm really glad that i tried this and i've now got it in my tool chest and i just used these simple shower curtain hooks to hang it okay now i'm just going to trim these to length and they're done so by now you've probably caught on that i have no idea how to make curtains and i'm just winging it but i'm really happy with how everything came out i was able to maintain a consistent reveal all around and these curtains are able to cover up my mistake that i made by cutting the bookshelf pieces a little bit too long even though i don't have a perfect reveal on one of my windows the curtains are always going to cover and hide it okay so for having no idea how to make curtains i think these came out pretty super pro so i'm not sure when you're watching this video but currently lumber prices are as high as they have ever been so it got me really curious to experiment with how to do a skim coat on these doors to fill in that ugly routed inlay that really makes them look outdated i tried something similar on the doors for the bathroom vanity but i used spackle and i got iffy results and i think i'm gonna do better the second time around i started by sanding my doors with 80 grit to get a good bond and then i did a flood coat of watered down joint compound just like i did earlier in the video on my walls just like before i'm not trying to make this first coat perfectly smooth more than anything i want to build up as thick of a layer as possible after that i got a 220 grit sanding net and i knocked down all of my high points before doing a second coat i applied a second coat following the exact same steps making sure to sand down any high points and then for my third coat i just applied it with my drywall knife i wasn't really building up any layers i just wanted to fill in any voids so i sanded everything one more time with 220 grit and then i applied a coat of this soft yellow paint i absolutely love the color it's almost like you took school bus yellow and then made it two shades more pastel it's bright and happy but still soft and appropriate for a bedroom i applied a couple of coats with a foam roller to the doors and then i also painted all of the face frame on the wall throughout this process i never removed the hinges so all i had to do was put the original doors right back where they were and i didn't have to fine tune or adjust anything i love that pop of color that the linen closet has but i wanted to continue it on this wall so i started by masking off the mirrors on my sliding closet doors and i spray painted them with a matching yellow whenever you're spray painting it's always best to do multiple light coats rather than few thick coats this will help the masking tape remove more cleanly and prevent drips and runs and just like before installation couldn't have been easier since i was using old parts in the same space the old concrete anchors had stripped out so here you see me drilling a new one i'm using a masonry drill bit and then after i vacuumed up all the dust i installed a plastic concrete anchor and then installed the screws as the directions recommend lately i've really been trying to add a pop of color to things as much as i can if you remember in the bathroom i actually painted the shower door hardware and that's held up really well that looks so awesome and at this point i couldn't help myself i also painted the interior bedroom door with that same color yellow i updated the hinges and the door knob and threw it onto the wall and is oh man it's exciting now before we reveal this bedroom let's go back to the before that way you can be reminded of just how ugly this space was the carpet was dingy the walls were puke colored and there was ugly popcorn ceilings that had to go and now let's check out these afters i'm gonna say it here i think this is my best room renovation today i am so hyped with how this project came out and everything was diy the whole space is bright and modern i love the combination of colors between the white walls and the gray concrete floors mixed in with all of the wood tones from the bookshelf and the pegboard wall and i've got to say that pop of yellow is the cherry on top the space is bright happy and has a ton of storage as you can tell i'm gonna have to do some shopping to fill this whole space out i've got things staged up a little bit but i'm excited to see how this room transforms over time especially with the modular pegboard and this giant bookcase not to mention i'm going to keep building projects for this space and i've got an entire closet organization video coming soon and that's it thank you guys so much for watching i really hope you all enjoyed this video if you did the nicest thing you can do is leave a like or a comment or both down below don't forget to hit that subscribe button and the notification bell that way you stay updated every time i post new youtube videos and if you want to keep up with me in between uploads you can follow me at modernbuilds on instagram if you take on a renovation or a project inspired by anything in this video i'd love to see what you make so make sure and tag me i still have to fix the window behind you build out the closet and i've got a couple of fun projects to help fill out this space so until next time this has been modern builds and we will see you next time bye everybody [Music] you

Channel: Modern Builds

Views: 580,307

Keywords: modernbuilds, modern builds, diy, how to, do it yourself, bedroom, renovation, makeover, reno, master bedroom, homeimprovement, home improvement

Id: UoGxHE_NTyA

Length: 32min 32sec (1952 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 09 2021