COMPLETE 2018 Mustang GT Supercharger Install! | Roush 700 HP Phase 1 Kit

today we take the horsepower and  torque of my 2010 Mustang GT to a   whole new level with help from Roush Performance I love my 2018 Mustang there's one thing I miss  about my 2015 it's the raw power of the Roush   supercharger well today we're gonna take care  of that problem and then some find solace route   supercharger kit I'm a 2018 Mustang GT this  supercharger kit from Roush Performance is   gonna figure 2018 Mustang GT with either an  automatic or manual transmission as always   Roush includes everything necessary for an  OEM style installation it's gonna take your   Mustang GT from 460 horsepower all the way to  704 420 pound-feet of torque all of it is 610   the heart of the supercharger kit is the new  T vs 2650 R which is much larger than previous   supercharger makes that seven hundred easily with  a lot of room left at only twelve pounds of boost   as always wraps rods everything necessary for an  installation clean the supercharger itself intake   injectors cold air kit and everything necessary  for high-end installation business elation can be   accomplished with a good set of hand tools and the  only specialty tools you're gonna need and when   you modify the timing cover you need something  to grind down the metal you also need an m8 by   one and a quarter tap neither a seventeen sixty  fourths or six point nine millimeter drill bit   the installation of the Roush supercharger  is a very labor-intensive and time-consuming   installation one make sure you give yourself  I would say the better part of a week and if   you've never doubled before before you tackle this  job also make sure you print out the instructions   read through the entire instructions and make  sure you have all the tools you need but also   watch this video to get an idea of how everything  is going to go together now before we begin the   installation you know determine how you're going  to tune the car when you're finished now in our   case we have the Roush software so we're gonna  flash it right here in the studio but if you don't   the first step is gonna be removed this computer  and then ship it out to Roush they can tune it for   you regardless of how you're going to tune the  installation begins right here at the fuse box   now what you're gonna do is go in here and you  want either fuse 48 or 49 that it's gonna kill   power to your fuel pump you're gonna start the  car up and then let it run until it dies what   that does is actually drains pressure from the  fuel system since we do have two taken apart at   which point like I said in our case we're flashing  ourselves we can move on to the installation if   not I'm gonna pull the fuse box out and then  remove your computer and send it out the Roush I'm not gonna sit with the fuse out you're gonna   start the engine and then let it  run until it shuts off on its own only take a couple seconds crank and once or  twice more just to make sure there's no fuel   left in it and we're ready to go there's  gonna be three phases of the installation   of the Roush supercharger the first step is  going to be disassembly and then modification   then finally installation now the first step in  disassembly is going to disconnect the battery   and then move it or neat the car like I said  the next steps could be underneath the car but   it's gonna be involved draining the coolant so  I'll rub here it's gonna pop the cap off the D   gas bottle and then move on to the car now in  order the car we have to remove this closeout   panel is gonna be bolts along the back here a  bunch of clips and bolts all along the front put the cover off you want to grab a  clean pan and we're gonna open up the   Tech Talk and drain the radiator coolant  drain and we're back up in the engine may   now we're sort of disassembly up here  if you have a strut tower brace it will   not clear the blow so that has to go away  and the intake cover and the cold air kit we move forward now and removing our  faculty intent by disconnecting all   the brake aspirator the purge valve basically all   the lines in the throttle body area  including the throttle body harness over here on the driver's side take this and pop this off as well Popoff is PCV  hose or if you had an oil separator be the piece   that would take its place you will not reuse  this I mean over the passenger side you wanna   grab a fuel line tool you're gonna disconnect  a line to the supply pump make sure you put a   rag underneath it but you need a little fuel to  come out of it once you this apply lend is to   enter from the rail this connect from the pump  as well back over on the driver side we have to   remove this hose assemble here goes back to the  brake booster and there's these two nuts right   on top I'll back it disconnect from the booster  and remove blind we will put a towel underneath   this when you pull the line off cause you will  get some fuel out of it and remove both fuel   rail covers this side we already have the nuts  off that side just pull the nuts off the studs here the covers off remove both heater hoses on  the driver side now we're gonna just connect the   sensor here dual pressure sensor on the rail  and then also disconnect all four injectors   and do the same thing on the objectors on  the other side the checker harness is out   of the way move the hose that goes from the  engine to your D gas bottle they're going   to disconnect it we've removed the fuel rail  necks there's gonna be two bolts on each side now you can carefully remove the rail make sure   you kind of hold the injectors up  is a little more fuel will come out   already to move for with removing the  intake itself through the intake bolts you're going to stay with the intake  you know we can remove the manifold   I'm gonna lift it up and you want to get  the harnesses carefully for the CMC these remove the intake grab some tape throw the port  just make sure nothing gets down in there I'm   gonna work on removing our D gas bottle we have an  aftermarket one the stock ones the same way though   disconnect right here at the bottle you leave  this hose just make sure you have a rag case a   leak a little bit then the same thing right over  here at the inlet to the water pump disconnect   now holding this hose upward so it doesn't leak we  remove the bolts and then remove the D gas bottle okay moving forward remove the upper radiator  hose and then follow up with the fan shroud the   fan shroud basically disconnect the connector  over there on the passenger side there's two   bolts and hold it on move this just pop off the  clip now we're going to move the front accessory   drive belt but before we do that we're going  to loosen these three bolts as the water pump   pulley has to come off once you remove the  belt now put a fifteen millimeter socket on   the tensioner remove tension from it and remove  the belt then remove the water pump pulley and   the secondary belt the AC belt you can simply  just cut off as your nock whenever you use it let's go over here again we're on  the passenger side I'm gonna pop   this retainer clip off put that harness out  of the way I'm gonna tape up this port here   then we'll sit on that and back to the  far wall and remove both the heater hoses cover these up as well make sure the opening  of the radiator is covered and all the other   openings are covered up and we're finished with  phase one disassembly ready for phase two the   installation which is modification because there's  certain things we have to modify to use them   with our kit one of them here is gonna be this  brake booster aspirator hose we're to start by   disassembling this and modify it for installation  we'll start by removing this rubber hose from the   hardline over here then remove the check valve  from the other side you may have to clamp it   usually just get a good grip on it and pull it  off moving either side carefully remove this foam no disconnect everything else is part of the ASP  right here so all four of these are gonna come off   this does not get reused you can simply cut it to  remove it we ready to do some assembly work here   you want to grab this middle plastic piece with  the four ports on it these two clamps we removed   earlier along with this check valve this hose  and this plug part of the kit that is supplied   by Roush for the installation and I grab a plug  here the opposite side a larger port simply plug   that and this will go on that side small clamp  there large clamp here and that goes on the end I'm gonna grab this hose is  included in the one hardware   kit the large half-inch fitting  here this is gonna go on to that okay next grab this line again from the  same kit the last port that's left put   it on to that you want to grab the foam  from earlier and rewrap the section here where to grab this line here with the straight PCV  fitting and then cut the hose so we can remove it I want to take that fitting and the last line  we installed the one without the right angle   the one that ends more of a straight line  stall that fitting in the end and that line   is finished next place we're going to modify  is gonna be the emissions canister purge line   we remove this line by cutting this fitting or  moving it from the purge valve you grab when   it's applied hoses with a supplied clamp  install the purge valve into that hose say   the last modification we're gonna do off the  car is gonna be the radiator shroud and what   you're gonna do take this template it's a  little stud here you're gonna line it up   with that stud put it right in the center  and these line up on the bottom and then   we're gonna mark holes here right in the  center where we're gonna drill these out then grab a marker this whole area  here has to be trimmed out one of a   second times just to make sure everything's  right where it belongs you're done marking   the top you know mark down here as well  as this gets cut out down here these are   for Jay clips to hold on the D gas bottle  we're going to drill the holes and then cut   this out your dremel would work best  we're going to drill these holes out the next modification is going to be the most  intimidating part of the installation but it   really isn't bad if you take your time you  have to modify the timing cover now they do   offer timing covers pre modified but honestly  that's far more work than just doing it this   way what we're gonna do this piece here will  have to be ground down smooth so it's equal   with the height of these ribs over here so  all this edging will have to come off this   piece here it's gonna have to be drilled  and then tapped we're gonna start by doing   the grinding over here now we're ready to start  the grinding now before you do this you want to   cover as much of the engine bay everything  you can because it is gonna go everywhere   you're gonna make a mess we'll clean it up later  but cover as much as you can before you start this is we want to look like when you're  finished karani nice and smooth and plenty   of clearance next we do now is drill this  out and tap it but again make sure you put   a stop on the drill bit you only go so  deep and now we're going to drill this   out make sure you put a stop on your drill  but you have to drill to a specific depth or   you can cause damage it's 35 millimeters  is how far you want to go in now with an   Emmy one and a quarter tap we're going to  tap the hole - at least 25 millimeters deep at this point we're ready to begin  phase three the actual installation   there's a little bit of sub-assembly  we're gonna have to do still and a   few more modifications as we go we're going  to start now the installation by installing   the wiring harness or the intercooler if  you do is basically fish this and here   with these two pieces along this wire  harness over here to the driver's side over the driver's-side valve cover now you  want to separate the radio capacitor from   the retainer we're going to cut the retainer  off the wiring harness and then plug in the   intercooler harness in between get over  here on the passenger side tower we're   gonna mount the fuse and the breaker  right on this eight millimeter bolt the next two connections going to be power and   ground ground we'll go right  here then power goes in here the last piece here gets fish down between  the frame rail and the washer bottle down here NIC's can install the MAF adapter harness  and there's two sides of this the one that   has the bear and wires that's going to go  terminals on it's going to go over here   on the passenger side and then both of these  plug into the corresponding colors back here hey now you want to zip tie the  harness to this main harness now we have to make some connections at  the computer with the wiring harness we   ran to do that they have to remove  this top plug the easiest thing to   do space just move these plugs out of the way push down on this tab pop that out that  should mention if you sent your computer   office harness will just be laying there  don't the plug off remove this back cover   there's two tabs in here I don't want  to pry up on these and pull the tab off then flip the harness over carefully pry up this  gray cap this party need a very small screwdriver   there's three punch outs we have to make on this  harness connect the three wires we just fished   over here the first one is location 12 now if  you look the upper left-hand corner has a one   there of your has a 15 we have fourteen thirteen  twelve and twelve was the one we're gonna punch   out you want to take the black pin here put it  location 12 make sure when you push a harness in   you hear you'll hear a very light click when it  clicks into place the pin 28 gets the red wire the green one is in 85 all three plugs tight  and take them back up again alright the harness   connected and reinstall the cover on this  side and then carefully reinstall the back plug it back in the computer all right the next step in the wiring is  descent module this is going to connect to   your throttle body and this module were  here it's gonna mount the battery box   then the power wire connection you'll  back in the box same place we connect   the inner core pump is going to go  there and the are the harness is   going to be fished over here I'm going to  cut the tape and connect to this connector I'm gonna move this tab as well next we have to modify is down here in the valley  and that is the NOC sensors these need to be   orientated more downward for proper clearance at a  supercharger assembly imply have to do is actually   cut this harness back a little bit first I'm  going to do is loosen up these bolts we actually   will remove them replace them with new bolts we  can loosen them up though and determine where   the sensors are going to go then figure out what  modifications have to happen to the wiring harness here's what you want it to look like when  it's done you want the harness away in the   bottom of the valley all the sensors may  see paté pointing straight down then we   can't work on the speck because we're running  boots you have to run a colder spark plug so   the next step is remove all the factory plugs  and replace them with it supplied Ford plugs   you do them all at once or one at a time four  to go one at a time remove the bolt give this   like a little twist move the coil on plug  assembly and then remove the plug itself now new plugs do come gap a double check them  there's between point o2 8.0 3-1 put a little   anti-seize on the threads as well now we can  install it then repeat the process with the   other seven plugs now ready to prepare the low  temp radiator for installation when you grab   to these rubber grommets and to metal inserts  and with the brackets facing up install them   in the bottom corners so the rubber grommet  first number the metal sleeve in the center and you're done flip it over I'm gonna  grab this applied foam or facing it of   glue pieces on all the way around the  edges these are the mounting brackets   for the intercooler pump you're gonna grab  all three brackets and then four pieces this   one inch wide foam these are going to work as  insulators on the bracket one men in the pump these are the upper brackets for the low temporary  there again these gonna get grommets and then the   metal sleeves these what whirring tape basically  like this so you see the Roush logo on the outside   here you want it facing outward and then  upward and the grommets going from the top   okay now we're gonna grab the intercooler tank   more these pieces of foam here one on top  of the curve here then one on the bottom flip this over stall this like that they the  shrink clamp in the place and grab a heat gun all right now we're back at the table to  do some assembly on the supercharger and   the lower intake manifold we're gonna do here  let's grab this PCV hose from earlier remove   that clamp and separate this hose from  this fitting okay I wanna grab the hose   that we just removed that's gonna go on this  fitting here on the bottom of the supercharger feed that up put it aside leave me one of  the supercharger itself we're gonna grab   the bypass hose and then grab this apply  the SI peace sensor right underneath there let's Snug it down it's applied torque  spec we ready to work on the front of   the 2650 blower now we're gonna do is grab  this o-ring for the throttle body get that   seated in there install the throttle body  carefully the electronics towards the pulley I'm going to torque these the supplied spec the supercharger pulley on Hsieh line up the holes   he'll put a dab of Loctite on each  of the bulk before installing them and then tighten them down and torque to spec  we ready to prepare a new fuel around that from   our stock fuel rail we're gonna remove all  these clips then remove this sensor take   the sensor we just removed install it in the  new rail okay we're gonna grab the supplied   injectors put a little dab of petroleum jelly  on the o-rings will make them seat a lot easier   so each injector and then the  clip we removed from the originals okay now you grab the Ralphs applied  filter put it on this adapter here for   the airbox make sure the arrow is facing down  and tighten it up I'm gonna put in the airbox   and bolt it down the supplied hardware  okay I'm gonna grab you a factory airbox   this rubber fitting here and then press the  metal insert through and remove the grommet   we're in our out box see the two rubber  inserts and install them on the new box   next on the instructions here is intercooler  piping install the supplied rubber hoses on the   end let stall the clamps and the heat shrink them  on ready to install the lower intake fuel charge   assembly now at this point um if you still have  your sounds imposer you want to reach back behind   here and remove it and it's almost elite since  we already have one installed from a while ago   we're ready to install I'm gonna fish the wiring  harness down here for the map sensor plug that in   right now back on the firewall I'm gonna loosen  up this ground this rotate it just a little bit alright now grab it supplied hardware I'm  gonna bolt down the intake just snug them   down there's a specific sequence you can torque  them are this parts gonna be tricky we're gonna   act the hard lines to the fittings on the back  of the fuel charge assembly you want to grab   the supplied clamps and make sure you're really  careful of the wiring harness while you do this okay this hose is done we can  now torque down the lower here   your torque for starters 210 Newton  meters there's a specific pattern   start with the middle one over here on  the passenger side and the driver side   and now in the same order going to go back to the  bolts and tighten them an additional 45 degrees and grab the wire that we fish earlier for the   ECT sensor we're gonna plug that in  and we're ready for the fuel rails I'm gonna do is line up the injectors push everything down to place and then reinstall  the bolts you want to grab three of the original   fuel reel bolts and the two supplied bolts the  shortest one is gonna go right here on top then   both on the passenger side of the originals  and then the longer supplied bolt goes down   here we're going to torque all five bolts  to ten Newton meters followed by 45 degrees I'm gonna plug in the sensor here  then and all your fuel injectors I'm gonna grab the upper pulley bracket tighten them down and I'm  gonna torque these to spec   bracket tight install the pulleys and  torque these to spec okay now the part   looking for to can actually install the  supercharger assembly on the car plug the   sensor in over here the blower in place now  we can install the hardware to hold it down I'm going to torque the 25 Newton meters in the  specific sequence in the instructions starting   over here on the passenger side binary to install  our brake booster line that we modified earlier   this is going to connect back here to the booster  these lines are action to go up here underneath this line here let me go to this rear port on  the supercharger NATO grab is a ecp V that we   removed earlier this is gonna go to this  green plug here this electrical connector   and then right there as a supercharger there's  going to zip tie this to the engine harness   now that finish remove these fittings and  then connect the fuel line on both sides thanks for grab these brackets  these are for the coil covers   and also for the heater hoses they are side  specific grab the supplied hardware install the brackets installed now we can install  the heater hoses now this sleeve here you   want to put on and put some tape on it  to give it more of a finished look this   one's gonna go underneath this  line here connect up front and   sitting this one then go back behind the  engine and connect to the heater corner well brent is connecting the other side they've  got her supplied zip ties zipped IDs in place   now make any connections with the heater  hoses at the heater court the firewall be   careful the one with the right angle  feed that goes on the driver's side   goes on the bottom the other one goes  on top I grabbed it supplied PCV hose   and connect it to this rubber fitting here  it's coming off the back of the supercharger lock in place there and lock in place on  the supercharger now we're to work on the   front drive accessories now what we're going  to do here is remove this bolt at the bottom   this one right here into the timing cover  now we're just going to lay our drive belt   in place or put on our front bracket now  put it over the supercharger just it just   like that okay we're going to do now is grab  this smaller bolt put it up in this corner install the pulley and these  are going to go up here the instructions provide a detailed diagram  as far as where the belts gonna go base   you're going to go underneath your crank  above the little tension here and then   down underneath to your AC compressor up  over this and it can actually go up over   the supercharger when put the tensioner on as  long as you have it correct down here you now   tighten these bolts and then we'll tighten  the supplied torque spec how you do is put   a 17 millimeter socket in here you're gonna  push down and relieve tension and pull the   belt up over the blower make sure to seat  it everywhere else and you're good to go oh that brackenstall we can work  on the other belt now or start   by reinstalling the original water  pump pulley with the factory hardware now don't forget these bolts do need to be torqued  to the spec provided but you do want to install   the belt first it makes it a lot easier than  trying to hold the pulley and tighten them down again the instruction is gonna provide detailed  diagrams where the belt goes we're gonna go   around the crank around the tensioner around  the water pump pulley underneath the idler and   then over to the alternator and now we can torque  these down ready to mount the low temp radiator   now in front of our factory radiator which can  provide cool it for the supercharger now to do   that there's a couple different things down in  the case of my car I don't have an aftermarket   grille installed there's a couple things are a  little bit different your car will have a bar   that goes here and remove the hardware that  holds it in place and put that bar aside if   your car has an active shutter system you're  going to have to remove your front bumper at   this point my car doesn't so I do not have to do  that we do it through the bumper wraps provides   detailed instructions on how to do it or I can  also watch our video on the grilles as we show   you take the bumper off there the first step with  us though let's remove this plastic trim panel down the way remove these two nuts install the  bracket now for the radiator now again if you   have an active system the instructions are  little different there's a couple of spacers   and a few things that are different so make sure  you read the instructions before the installation then do the same thing on the driver's  side with the driver side bracket now   we're going to slide the low temperature  into place now there are nuts on the back   of this I don't lie it actually tighten  it down once the brackets are in place next we mount the bottle over here on  the side next to the washer bottle or   start by removing these bolts up  here and a corresponding J clip they put the bottle up in the place you know  line it up with the bolt coming through I grab   the intercooler pump and put it up into  the hose on the bottle we just installed install the supplied clip now we grab the  twos top pieces for the mounting bracket   for the pump triangular side is gonna go  towards it and go up over the print rail I put the bottom part of the bracket  up in the place right in the supplied   hardware then the back part here these  are going to thread into your tank   I grabbed a large clamp and put that over  the pump place right here for it to sit and   then line up the supplied hardware hold it  in place now we can tighten everything down and don't forget to plug in the pump  can never grab a u-shaped hose this is   going to connect on the passenger side of the low   temperature over the frame rail and  then connect to the intercooler pump the music on the other side of the  low-temperature radiator this hose   next is befitting on the driver's side  that'll be fished up to the engine bay   to the two heater hoses that we run down the  driver side valve cover unlike the other one   this one will require some trimming of  the plastic panel once it's installed now we're gonna mark the closeout  panel we're gonna trim it out now   it does fit through there the last thing  I'm gonna do is actually pinch that hose   that goes to your intercooler to make sure  it flows freely we're gonna trim the panel the hose is matted now we can solve  the lower support for our radiator   what this is gonna do it's gonna replace  your factory piece it's gonna bolt right   across here and these will go up behind and  vote for the radiator now these outer bolts   here you're gonna reinstall using the  factory hardware in our case a factory   hardware is gone because you do have an  aftermarket lower grille support that   uses these brackets instead of bolt this on  here and tighten these and follow these below okay the hose in the driver's side now we can  get to the lower port make sure it clicks on   and then grab this radiator hoses sim with you  only connection going to make at this point is   this here that's going to go on the coolant tank  bottle I'll hit it down below the beanstalk below   the frame rail leave that away from here  I'm going to reinstall the electric fan you can reinstall a factory  hardware don't forget plug it in all right now can reinstall our D gas bottle  the factory one on our case aftermarket one take the other end of the radiator  hose here stick to the other side   intercooler piping install this clip  on the bottom basic enforcing on the bottle mounted now grab the  original radiator hose for the upper I grabbed this factory hose from the D gas bottle  remove these clamps and transfer them over to the   news since we move the mass air sensor you grab  this delete now plug him in lock it in place pop this off then the zip tie  it down here out of the way I grabbed the supplied dirty air duct  let's slide it over the factory plastic and install the air box every one of the inlet tube getting close here I know make our connections at the  inlet tube just supplied PCV make   sure they click ok the last step the actual  assembly process is to install this cover we're gonna reassemble our belly  pan and are ready to fill the fluids okay now we reinstall the fuse removed earlier  for our fuel pump then reconnect the battery all right the last step here there's  a few decals Ralph's provides you want   to install and use a different viscosity  oil now so they provide a little sticker also a new sticker for the vacuum in  the accessory belt and the last one   goes back here on the fuel door just  to remind you to use premium fuel all right so once you're finished the  installation you don't want to either   reinstall your computer if you send it  out or you get it flashed make sure you   don't try to start the car without the tune  in it once you're good to go there cross   your fingers hope you did everything  right and you're ready to start it up once you have it running get it up to operating  temperature you want to check the coolant on both   the blower and your main coil and make sure  they're full make sure they're proper here to   make sure the coolant is circulating through here  that your pump is working again double check for   everything make sure you have no leaks there's  no interferences nothing like that legislation   is finished and there you have it that's how you  install Roush with phase one supercharger on your   2010 Mustang GT well if we've come to expect  from Roush now fit and finish once installed   it looks oh em that looks like it came from  the factory that way as far as installation   time goes on something like this give yourself  the better part of a weekend it'll definitely   take some time let make sure you take your time  get everything right Plus remember to send that   computer out to get it tuned now as far as  the dyno numbers you know you guys are dying   to know what kind of power it makes well seven  hundred the crank we know it's gonna make well   into the six hundreds to the wheel but in the  next week or so we'll get on the donal give you   guys some numbers as well so take your time with  the installation you back on the road in no time

Channel: CJ Pony Parts

Views: 713,918

Keywords: cjponyparts

Id: ElAGkp4ydeQ

Length: 61min 45sec (3705 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 06 2018