Coco Chanel’s Biggest RIVAL: Elsa Schiaparelli

scafarelli an exceptional Fusion of fashion and art at the heart of the legendary house lies the true Visionary Behind These surreal designs with an unrestrained at times Brazen originality in her work Elsa scaparelli was ahead of her time she created bold statement pieces wearable art and expertly crafted Couture shocking pink Lobster dresses and book accessories captures the Public's attention with a history of bankruptcy and prosperity the Brand's indomitable spirit and enduring Legacy is undeniable a journey that lives on Through The Eyes of a new creative Daniel Roseberry a man who embodies the same Innovation and non-conformity as The house's founder and in the Modern Age creates a hype better than ever the house was founded originally by Elsa scaparelli born in 1890 in Rome Elsa going by the name of scap was from a very wealthy family she grew up in a religious and conservative environment that prevented her from using her imaginative capabilities her mother even disliked her for being bizarre she often conducted mischievous pranks once when she was annoyed that she could not attend her parents dinner party she retaliated by opening a jar of fleas under the table which set off an itching episodes among the guests as a child she'd put flower seeds in her ears mouth and nose convinced that they'd grow and make her as beautiful as their sister the results were quite the contrary as she almost suffocated she'd say if I cannot be the most beautiful then I would be the most extravagant and this theme continued throughout her work Elsa went on to study philosophy at the University of Rome before publishing a book of sensual poetry the controversial work shocked her family and so she was sent to a Convent in protest scaparelli went on Hunger Strike which led to her release age 22. in pursuit of emancipation Elsa escaped to London taken a job as a nanny two years later she married count Wilhelm Vince tequila a self-described Consulting psychologist who specialty was making predictions about the future and rumoredly was only interested in Elsa's Dowry together the couple were deported from the UK for a lawsuit against her husband's work and so they moved to New York during World War one here she made new friends Gabrielle piccabia a writer and her husband Francis piccabia a dadis painter dadaism and surrealism with thriving art movements around this time especially in Paris artists produced work in a variety of mediums that depicted dreamlike Visions imagining life in another reality with a focus on nonsense play and provocation schafarelli's interest in spiritualism and her powerful imagination led her Affinity to the movement through this friendship Scott met surrealist artist Marcel Duchamp and man ray two people should go on to work with later in their career whilst living in New York she had a daughter Maria however with her Dowry running out and her husband's own faithfulness unfortunately their marriage began to dissolve by 1922 age 32 freshly divorced Elsa and Maria moved to Paris following her new friends amongst their new crowds Elsa met The Cutting Edge designer Paul Porey the man who'd freed women from wearing corsets eliminated heavy layered clothing and introduced newer looser fitting clothes scaparelli became his apprentice and started designing extravagant clothes whilst also wearing some of pirates more daring designs that she'd been gifted in 1927 after admiring a jumper worn by a friend scaparelli commissioned the Knitter to make one featuring her own design a trump Loy an optical illusion the black and white detailed around the neck created the illusion of a bow scarf or sailor suit she then wore the piece to a lunch surrounded by fashion buyers her work received immediate attention and orders from American Representatives scarparelli was very quickly on the international map the uniqueness of the piece gave schapparelli huge popularity and she was even featured in Vogue who labeled the design an artistic Masterpiece and a Triumph of color and blending after the initial feedback and with no formal training in 1927 age 37 Elsa opened up her own artelier partnered with businessman Charles Khan The House of scaparelli the House of scaparelli was based in a small artillery in 1927 in the Rue de la University by 1932 she had 400 employees producing seven to eight thousand garments per year from the artillery which they now expanded to the four Rue de Lepe she was continually making headlines and had become the only rival of Industry Titan Coco Chanel Chanel was creating classic clothes for women meanwhile scaparelli brought them into another dimension scap broke every rule she used wide draping numerous brooches to fix her lack of technical expertise which in turn became a love design feature exaggerated accessories usually animals mermaids and insects she's merged skirts with trousers to create the scores and introduce Innovative materials such as artificial fibers and plastic zippers scaffarelli's designs were so avant-garde that they still have the power to shock and Inspire contemporary designs today more so her clothing was also extremely practical adopting new technologies to create garments that made women Chic and comfortable she invented the first bathing suit with a built-in bra the see-through raincoat the ladies evening jacket the wrap dress and even shoulder pads she also worked with the idea of interchangeable pieces she made the sachets that turned into skirts jackets that became headdressers and skirts that became capes scap would do whatever was versatile and unexpected Ella actually put a poll on this in the look Circle the other day which by the way is where we have all our daily Converse stations with you guys in our community about all things luxury fashion anyway we asked which woman do you think had a bigger impact on fashion Elsa scaparelli or Coco Chanel and here are the results if you want to join in the conversation next time make sure you subscribe to see our posts she Drew inspiration from Parisian artistic Life along with the works of Pablo Picasso and manre specifically the work of painted hands that look like gloves in 1935. a piece cap rally herself reimagined in the hawk Couture collection of 1936 and seven her attitude to all collaboration led to groundbreaking Creations working with the creme de La Creme of Parisian talent in 1931 her first collaboration was with Elsa triolet they created the aspirin necklace which is made using porcelain beads that are reminiscent of the pain relief tablets scaparelli also had a long-term partnership with Spanish artist Salvador Dali who produced some of the most said and iconic work their first collaboration was a compact part of the case that looked like a rotary phone dial created in 1935. in 1937 they created the lobster dress for Wallace Simpson to wear on a honeymoon this was one of the most iconic pieces and was featured in an eight-page spread of Vogue also in 1937 they created the shoe hat this place with the surrealist idea of selecting an object and then removing it from its usual context the following year in 1938 they made the skeleton dress a black crepe gown with cotton was ink used to imitate protruding bones they were intentionally subversive use the elements that were normally deemed unattractive and elevating them to the Pinnacle of style scafarelli also collaborated with Jean cocteau a French artist the pair designed more traditional garments but their embellishment was no less hypnotic in 1937 they created a coat with an embroidered optical illusion on the back two silhouette faces forming the the outline of avars topped with a splash of pink flowers another piece an evening jacket featuring a woman's profile with a golden beaded hair flowing down the left sleeve scarelli also forged Partnerships with other artists of the era like Mary oppenheim who created Fair jewelry pieces Alberto giacometti who designed Furniture brooches and buttons Jean dudand who painted a trademark Trump lawyer on address and Jean Clement who created the iconic bug necklace in 1934 Elsa scaparelli appeared on the cover of Time Magazine she was the first female designer to ever achieve this honor and was referred to as one of the orbiters of Ultra Modern Hawk tour it was an Ode to her success and influence on the entire industry the following year in 1935 the Couture house moved to the hotel de font patui in the 21 Place Vendome the home it still occupies to this day a five-story building of 98 rooms and a ground floor Boutique display was designed by long-time collaborator and interior designer jean-michael Frank alongside Swiss sculptor Alberto giacometti this was the first modern interpretation of a Couture house with a boutique and artillery in the same building here they produced 10 000 garments a year the house was a leader in Hawk Couture Jewelery perfume Cosmetics lingerie and swimwear known for its flamboyant colors and for combining eccentricity with Simplicity scarparelli's look were worn by the biggest stars actresses such as Lauren bacal zazar Gabor and Marlene Dietrich could all be seen Sports and head Arts Elsa was Paving the way for other designers as one of the first to enlist the theme to the season the 1935 stop look and listen collection featured newspaper print specifically press clips that featured scaparelli news this self-referential technique is still seen on the runways today notably with John Galliano does work for Dior the 1938 Pagan collection Incorporated hats made from fake flora and buttons shaped like insects the same year the Zodiac collection featured garments embellished with views of plants and constellations the icon of the season was a cape embroidered with Celestial imagery in Tinsel and goal threat demonstrating her love for Rich Fabrics embroidery and adornments also in 1938 the circus collection created clown hats and balloon shaped pierces which were paired with spectacular prints and miniature acrobat and horse-shaped buttons Hair Designs were Innovative powerful and controversial whilst Elsa she also had a strong understanding of the power of direct Marketing in 1937 she created the first ever fashion show in a Parisian showroom another pioneering move Elsa's miraculous Visions transform the face of fashion in 1937 scaparelli made shocking pink hair signature color not Barbie not Valentino Elsa scaparelli is the genius behind the standout hot pink that we see today she says I gave to Pink the nerve of the Reds and neon pink and an unreal pink this coincided with the release of scaparelli's shocking perfume Elsa labeled it as a Couture perfume with meticulous detail on the bottle the bottle is based of the dressmaker's model of Elsa's Muse May West with a measuring tape dress across the bottle's shoulders it was an instant bestseller and Remains the number one for almost 30 years scaparelli was well accustomed to the world of fragrances influenced by her old Mentor Paul Porey who was the original fashion couture to create a fragrance Elsa launched her fragrance house in 1929. the first perfume was called s Elsa had the Superstition to the letter and you see it used multiple times throughout her work next came the fragrance Trio perfumes called tsuki Salu and each scent designed to be worn during different times of the day scap the data for the evening this intended creation was a pioneering concept for the fragrance World in 1939 she launched her only men's fragrance called snuff named after the ground tobacco as a reference to a key element of manhood at the time the bottle was shaped like a pipe in the packaging of a cigar box in 1940 a fragrance called sleeping was released made to be sprayed at night to help the wearer drift off in true scaparelli style it was another Whimsical fun night light design the next fragrance was Leroy Soleil another collaboration between Elsa and Salvador Dali the bottle was in the shape of a sun to represent the Sun King Louis XIV only 2 000 exclusive bottles of the perfume were produced and the glass was designed by Crystal maker baccarat in 1947 the house opened a perfume Factory in the suburbs of Paris a department that was a huge attribution to the scaparelli brand do you think it will ever come back to go back to 1941 during World War II scarparelli left Paris and moved to New York where rather than designing she involved herself with war-related volunteering activities although she was providing services and nurses aid her Design House remained open in Paris but collections were prepared by Associates after four years at the end of the occupation in 1945 she returned to Paris and resumes her career upon her return Paris was facing the emergence of a new generation of couturees notably Christian Dior and christabel Balenciaga in 1947 Dior likes capparelli had 20 years earlier captivated America and Europe with what became known as the new look it had shock value but a more conventional sort than that of scaparelli in 1946 Elsa created the concept of a capsule collection specifically made for traveling called the constellation wardrobe this laid the foundation of modern ready to wear containing six dresses one reversible hot and three folding hats the Wardrobe is a sensation as it represents the emancipation of women and anticipates their more frequent travels in 1947 Huber de Givenchy was hired as creative director where he stayed for four years over this time he created pieces following scaparelli's sense of fun playfulness combined with his own youthful and wearable Elegance he used this role as experience before leaving to create his own Maison in 1951. scapporelli continued to create hugely iconic pieces in 1949 she created oversized jewelry a giant bee brooch and notably the iconic Salvador Dali Bejeweled Ruby lips brooch with pearl thief in 1950 The Tuxedo dress made its debut and featured diagonal buttonin in 1951 they ventured into the world of eyewear creating Bejeweled glasses adorned with fringe cellophane scaparelli was once again a Pioneer in the industry anticipating the trend and Licensing sunglasses their iconics silhouette is still recreated today in 1953 one of Elsa's final iconic moments was the creation of the costumes for zazar Gabor who was starring in John Houston's film Moulin Rouge obviously including a shock and pink number the film was later donated by Anna Wintour as having the best costumes of all time then a year later in 1954 having struggled adapting to the post-war climate scaparelli declared bankruptcy and had to close the Couture house Elsa retired and devoted herself to her autobiography shocking life she moved to Tunisia and built a home she later passed away in her sleep in 1973 aged 83. Elsa is an unrecognizable designer for most people she's often a forgotten designer not recognized nearly enough for her work during her life she was overlooked for being ahead of her time as a woman with an incredible eye for business and a unique sense of Art and fashion she didn't fit into the Norms at all of that time her success was however later recognized in 2012 as the Met spring 2012 costume Institute exhibition scaparelli and Prada impossible conversations this explored the affinities between Elsa's caporelli and Lucia Prada Two Italian designers from different eras scaparelli on surrealism and mutual on eclectic post-modernism the exhibition even features an orchestrated AI conversation between the iconic women then unexpectedly almost 40 years after its original closure Italian businessman Diego de la Val of Todd's group acquired the brand in 2007. he hoped to revive it in the same way he had resurrected Shoemaker Roger vivier later in 2012 scaparelli was reopened in its old home at hotel de font at the place Vendome the brand whose name was once synonymous with some of paris's most Innovative and influential Creations was reborn as a modern reflection of that Legacy in 2013 Christian Lacroix created the first comeback Hawk control collection dedicated to Elsa scaparelli as a means of underscoring the scaparelli Legacy later that year marcosanini was appointed creative director with experience at Versace Dolce gabbame and Holston zanini's potential was exciting however his tenure was short-lived lasting just two years his strategy of starting with custom suits and dresses before branching into accessories and perfume failed to wear Master sales they needed his pieces were practically wearable and sometimes too literal ginormous 1940s gone Haywire padded shoulders overly Uche hats lashings Affair and other oversized wonders with the Staples all displayed in front of a bright pink backdrop he was succeeded by Bertrand goyon in 2015. ikele de la sombre syndical de la Couture parazam graduate he had previously worked at Valentino alongside Pierre Paolo piccioli and Maria grazia chori at Givenchy under hubergevancy and John Galliano plus experience Alexander McQueen and Christian Lacroix another exciting prospect for the brand he delved into the design Archives of the label injecting a fresh contemporary Vibe into scaparelli's Hawk Patrol collection and recently developing a ready-to-wear and accessories Line featuring a first handbag called secret descaparelli he also referenced Elsa's love for Animals creating a headpiece of air Fox Terrier and one creating a real-life version of the flower heads that comes on the shocking fragrance bottle his designs were in favor either with celebrities including Tilda Swinton Celine Dion and Lady Gaga in 2017 scaparelli was awarded the official Hawk Couture label by the French Ministry of industry and the French Couture Federation the French industry standards protect the term Hawk Couture Itself by law each garment must be made to measure for a private client and every look requires at least two fittings then each Couture house must produce at least 25 designs every season for the bi-annual shows in January and July the scapanelli's signature appears in none other than shocking pink however in 2019 goyon announced his departure it was a shocking and rather unexpected departure as his work was brilliant in his place Daniel Roseberry was appointed as artistic director Roseberry is an American designer he grew up in Texas in a very religious household so much so he even considered becoming a priest however after spending some time traveling After High School he returned to study at New York's Fashion Institute he left after two years to begin working with Tom Brown who became his mentor for 10 years he showed his first collection as caparelli only two months after joining during the show he sat in the center of the runway recreating the processes of Designing and sketching The Collection one in which he said he deliberately avoided referencing or imitating the work of Elsa scaparelli and instead aimed to focus on capturing the spirit and bravery of scaparelli during his tenure at the house rosebery has become known for resurrecting some of the maison's most beloved and influential codes and iconography while paying homage to its Founders Elsa scaparelli's love of surrealism he has also added his own personal aesthetic with his frequent use of full jewelry hardware and sculpting alongside repurposed denim he said I tried to re-establish the voice of the house and make it personal when I felt that we had done that I was able to return Elsa's work like scaparelli herself who was known for her Technical Innovations Roseberry is particularly interested in experimenting with new or on lightly Fabrics such as molded leather and metal breastplates and body parts one of rosebery's most Pinnacle moments was dress and Lady Gaga in 2021 to sing the national anthem at the inauguration of president-elect Joe Biden she wore a brass Dove on her chest holding an olive branch as a symbol of Harmony and peace Roseberry initially envisioned The Ensemble being all white but switched to a red and blue color scheme at the suggestion of Gaga a lifelong fan of scaparelli Daniel's designs for scaparelli have been seen on Beyonce Michelle Obama Kim Kardashian Julia Fox Kanye West and Bella Hadid in 2023 roseby launched his first ready to wear line for the house being exclusively sold through Bergdorf Goodmans this could be their new strategy for gaming customers in an easier market after all bags and accessories do make these Brands the most money do you think scaparelli could produce the next eight piece or do you not want them to is this a brand that's best sticking to its Heritage and Hawk jaw or do you think that they're on their way to compete with the likes of Chanel and Dior no matter what happens next the house is no longer a forgotten memory and rather a thriving Empire Rising again one that would be much harder for us to forget should it go bankrupt for a second time around thank you very much for watching this video on Elsa's capparelli if you want to know more about the luxury fashion industry I would definitely recommend watching this video because it is full of value and information don't forget to join me and Ella in Deluxe Circle but if not I will see you in the next video [Music]

Channel: Luxe Collective

Views: 7,097

Keywords: who is else schiaparelli, what is schiaparelli known for, what is schiaparelli, who is the creative director for schiaparelli, when did else schiaparelli die, elsa schiaparelli career, schiaparelli surrealism, did schiaparelli go bankrupt, who is daniel roseberry

Id: xlDF3DqtRMU

Length: 22min 12sec (1332 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 21 2023