CNC Honing the Engine Block for my Personal LS Turbo Build! - Dart LS Next 2 Block - Part 2

welcome back in part two of my personal 400 cubic inch LS build series we are going to hone and prep the block completely for assembly [Music] so first we're going to throw the Block in our CNC Rottler cylinder hone and I'm going to show you guys how we hone an LS engine block especially for a power Adder we're going to put dual torque plates on it and then we're going to do a plateau hone finish of course then we'll come out of the hone we'll do a deep clean on the Block we'll deburr the tops of the cylinders the bottoms of the cylinders and prep it you know structurally for assembly then it goes in the wash tank it'll get washed it'll come out of the wash tank we'll install cam bearings we'll give it a nice paint job and then it'll be ready for assembly the machine that we hone our engines in is rottler's h85ax and this is basically a fully automated CNC style hone with a six cutter hone head now the first stage of the Zone process I'm using the equivalent of a 180 grit Diamond Cutter there are six of these in this hone head and I'm going to hone the block to the absolute final bore diameter 4.1250 with these 180 grit Cutters after the block is final sized we will come back with this 600 grit CBN Diamond Plateau Stone and this is basically going to give the engine block a smooth polished finish on the surface the reason we start with a really coarse 180 grit is I want to cut a really deep valley into the engine block and then we'll come back and brush and smooth off the face but we want that deep valley for a lot of oil retention in the cylinder finish we want that oil retention there because this motor is going to make so much horsepower and sees so much cylinder pressure we want that oil to cling to the wall to help cool off and lubricate the piston rings so first step let's get the block thrown into this machine and then we can put on our torque plates [Music] foreign the block is right now just sitting in the hone and so now I'm going to walk you guys through kind of the setup of how we get the CNC home rolling and so first we'll just lock down the block so that it's secure just like so and now we can roll it over it's on us this trolley is kind of on a spring it's really nicely balanced too so there's almost no effort all right so first we need to kind of write a program for this block we've done obviously the standard LS blocks a whole bunch but I don't know if the main webbing is any bigger with this Cleveland Main engine so we're going to write a new program basically for it so let me do a quick cheat sheet and grab a picture of some of these bore locations just save you time when I set it up again all right so let's do a new program and let's go ahead and title it we'll do Dart LSN 2.75 for the main Journal how about that okay we'll do a new phone program select it all right so we're going to go to a 4.125 bore for my crosshatch angle normally on a naturally aspirated LS I like to run about a 45 degree cross angle for a moderate power Adder combo I'll run about a 40 degree I'm going to go down to a 35 on this one that just feels right with me [Music] we'll set our own RPMs I want to RPM it when it's honing rough and finish at 175 and then when we go with the plateau we'll drop it down to 80. and then we'll enter our loads I'm going to rough hone it at 50 load if I finish it at 40 load and then we'll Plateau it at 15. [Music] now we can set tell the machine how far down to hone this block which is going to be based on the sleeve length [Music] so literally we'll come in here and we're going to measure down to the bottom of that sleeve up to the top [Music] getting about five and seven eighths inch I'm gonna go back to my standard LS block program and just check that yeah so I have the exact same information on it they're 5.8 so let's go back to this one close cylinder length 5.85 [Music] and we need to set our lower stroke which is basically how far can we hone down into the block before it hits main webbing and right now that's at about six and a quarter so now let's subtract [Music] 6.25 minus my 5.85 and 7 8. and then I want to build in a little bit of a room for error so we'll lower stroke it 0.35 check my other program see what I was doing there yep same 0.35 cool so it's actually the same all right now let's set our bore locations so let's move this guy over [Music] and bring it down and we're going to zero this hone head [Music] first cylinder bore [Music] and then we need to zero out our Z height all right that all looks good [Music] all right now we're going to tell it the bore spacing of the block and where I want it to go next so we're going to start on this zero hole and then we're going to go over 8.8 inches because the bore spacing Center to Center is 4.4 so for my second hole we need to go over eight then we're going to come back and do minus 4.4 and then we'll do plus 4.4 and so if we kind of run it through the program it'll fur hone the first hole then we'll come to the second hole then it'll go to the third hole and then it'll finish on the fourth hole and the reason we want to kind of Jolly it between these different holes in that order is we want to always go to a new hole that doesn't have any thermal or any chance of thermal expansion from honing the previous hole so if we start in this hole or let's say we start all the way on this side of the block and then we hone it and then we go to the next hole well this bridge this wall between them there's a chance that there's some thermal Heat an expansion happening from the friction generated or the heat generated from the friction of hone in the first hole so we're going to start here go to this one about time we're done with this hole this is all cooled off so we can go back here and by the time we're done with this hole this is all cooled off so then we can go here that's kind of why you'll see it hone different holes and pattern instead of just going down the bank all right we got this Left Bank clear now I'm going to roll it over and use my cheat sheet notes so we need to start at negative 0.96 7.84 negative 5.36 and then 3.44 okay so let's check this side make sure that everything's good and then we'll put our torque plates on and we can start honing perfect so if we're going to take our Fork plates and we'll drop these onto this engine here about like so and then we're just going to torque this down as if it was the cylinder head no different [Music] and I am using the CMD thread lubricant for this engine build [Music] [Music] oh right now I'm just going to 65 foot-pounds and then I'll do the final torque next all right [Music] [Applause] I don't know if these little studs up here really affect anything but let's go ahead and torque them as well just to cover our bases it can't hurt right okay one side done now let's do the other side foreign plates are installed block is in the machine first we're going to take a measurement and see how much we need to remove which is about eight thou so now we're going to bring our hone head bring it over to cylinder one let's drop the head into the block make sure everything is lined up still [Music] way in there and now this cone is really sweet because it will automatically determine [Music] the size of the bore and then all you tell it is how much material you want to remove from the hole yeah so we're going to feed the stones to diameter it's now going to spin up and it's going to find the diameter of that bore right there now we zero that out and now I could in theory tell it exactly how much I want to remove from this hole to make it perfect and then it will do all the other holes exactly to match but I always like to run kind of a quick trial pass in the machine first so I'm going to tell it to just remove one thou and we're going to run through the whole block just taking out one thou just to make sure everything is working correctly there's no crash detection and you know no errors in the setup so now we can go ahead and hit cycle start and it will do the rest so it's going to drop into the hole right now exactly where I want it feed the stones out check itself then it's going to drop all the way to the bottom to do as a crash detection to make sure it doesn't hit anything on the way down and then it hones just like that and like I said I'm just going to take out one thou out of every hole to start [Applause] and it'll automatically dwell at certain parts of the bore to make it perfectly straight [Applause] boom there's one thousand it'll move to the next hole on its own while it's moving I usually come in here and check make sure everything's cutting straight make sure it did indeed take out one thou everything looks perfect yeah that's how you hone with this Rottler pretty sick [Music] so I'm gonna go ahead and start a time lapse for you guys and we will come back when I am ready to Plateau finish the block at final size [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] ahead and stopped recording because it is it's just honing material out but the blog has now been final sized and after I finalize the block I want to let it sit and relax for about 30 minutes so that the iron can just settle into place after being forced and pushed and honed on now let's come back and we're going to final check our bore diameters and we'll see how much they have moved around and then that will tell us if we need to come back and hone certain cylinders to final them to size so my first hole here I need to come back and hone it a little bit let's go to my second it needs to get honed still my third does as well my fourth hole is borderline [Music] I'm going to come back and just barely bump it now let's check this side [Applause] same that one's a couple tenths too small a couple tents small couple tents small and a couple tents too small so yeah we're going to come back through and just kiss all of them just a tiny bit to remove the last couple tints of material foreign [Music] [Applause] [Music] foreign [Music] okay after touching up the block just a hair come back and check make sure everything's perfectly zero there's actually there's still a couple tents under so what's nice about this machine is I can dial in and tell it just to remove one more ten thousandth of an inch okay so now this hole is perfect it's dead on zero so I'm going to turn off that hole so it doesn't touch it and this hole is also good so I'm gonna turn off three and four it's check this side one is good turn it off number two also good let's turn him off three is good so it looks like this whole side is actually perfect dead on zero yeah so all we have to do is just touch up two holes on the other side and this block will be done with our final our finish hone and then we'll be ready to Plateau it foreign just a tiny bit from one and two [Music] all right now come back and check those two holes and now they are dead on zero okay time to Plateau so I'm going to turn on all of the holes again we'll put the machine in Plateau mode and now I just need to swap out these stones for our Plateau brushes they're actually not brushes anymore back in the old days these used to be an actual like a like a brush literally but now just modern technology we use a CBN type of material type of cutter [Music] that's it now let me check everything [Music] and we should be good to go bring this down yep cycle start now it's going to do 50 I'm sorry it's going to do five Strokes at a very low RPM and at a very load against the block just to kind of polish off the surface finish just like that that's it [Music] foreign [Music] and that's it this block is now finished honed and is completely ready for assembly [Music]

Channel: That Engine Guy

Views: 32,377

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Id: 1dpBOGfeJRc

Length: 26min 45sec (1605 seconds)

Published: Sun Sep 17 2023