Climb Harder with these Advanced Dynamic Climbing Techniques

dinos and dynamic climbing is an important skill for everyone looking to up their grade and improve as a climber in this video Louis is going to be coaching us through some Advanced Dynamic climbing techniques and giving us tips on how we can improve and practice them on our own so Louis is going to tell us what we're going to run through today and tell us why Dynamic climbing is important I thought Louis was the best person for this as he is probably the most dynamic climber of all time that's right it's practically a Tigger of the climbing world this is my favorite intro so far so yes I've been practicing flouncy bouncy dance moves on climbing wall for a long time and a few specific things I want to do today I thought we'll go for some slightly more advanced stuff that I've done in previous videos if you want to have a look at those so I want to start off with a drill that I do quite often on a warming up we're going to get onto an easy climb we're going to make up some dinos and we're going to talk about how we can chain movements together and use excess momentum from a previous move to feed into the next move so that when we get onto some harder challenges of which I have three for Josh we're going to practice consistency and building confidence by repetition it will be a lot of challenge it'll be a lot of fun we'll fall off a lot of laughs it's gonna be great fun and we're going to show you also we're going to give you tips on things you can take away and practice at home so that instead of just watching this video you can go away and practice and become a better Dynamic climber as well perfect do what you see in the video it's gonna be perfect then you'll be as good as Josh and as good as me as good as Louis it's good to be as good as Louie he's going to be as good as everybody in the video let's go I'm gonna beat Louie at every single Dynamic thing after this I'm here I can hear you yeah I said it loud up to you folks how hard you want to make this I sometimes do this on like absolute Mega jugs we're already a little bit warm so I've gone for still Mega jugs but a slightly more difficult route I think this one's like but Josh is very tall and very strong so this is an appropriate level for Josh um I would like you to do the following yes sir grab grab the hold yes Dino to that one okay I don't think that's gonna be too bad for you am I allowed to reach um we'll see okay do what you want to but get that hold yes and then get to the top however you want okay okay hold on I could well one of the difficulties for Josh for you uh you're very tall and you're very strong so the incentive to dino certain moves actually doesn't come up that often you can just reach but then when you come across a very Dynamic move you're not as well practiced yeah so although it is definitely in this instance easier for Josh just to reach the next hole and then reach the next one we're going to start getting more intentional with the amount of momentum you're using cool okay so go for that first one again but this time I want you to go both hands for it both hands I also want you to go both hands to the top as well oh fun yeah I know that's not scary oh I have to think about this quite a lot yeah now lovely that's loads better can I use any feet anything you like man anything you like if you're finding it scary this is not just for Josh but also people trying this at home um I think Dynamic movement is entirely based on two skills timing which we'll learn as we practice this stuff and confidence which we will learn as we practice this stuff so if you find it scary that's fine that's normal keep doing it it'll become more familiar so okay now let's talk about chaining those movements together because I think you know as you generate loads and loads of power to get the first Dyno yeah then we stop stabilize then generate loads of power for the next move yep I'm Gonna Leave You to work on it yourself for a little bit okay but I want you to try and find the it's a tricky one to balance the fastest way to link those two dinos together but not at the expense of just using loads more strengths okay so ideally it's going to be based on timing where he lands where he swings when he pushes into the next move that was pretty nice if we were trying to make it a smooth journey of momentum from one uh from the start move to the top yeah I think as you were bouncing back and forth here we absorbed a little bit of the momentum is there a way you think that you could uh when you catch this one you're swinging this way right yeah do you think you could just swing straight back the other way and go straight into the finish move so I'll just show you what I was doing on this earlier when I was warming up very quickly just because we're going to build on this idea for the rest of the session why think about when I'm doing this is the idea that when I'm off balance or when I push further into that first bundle yeah I have excess momentum which wants to go back the other way okay so by purposefully putting myself on off balance I can just give myself even more power for the next move without actually needing to be stronger that just natural loss of balance swings me into the next move oh that was it that was it nice yeah it feels weird because when you don't need to do it I mean you know what I mean yeah but like getting there but then we're back to I think the original idea of like whoa the easiest way for you to do it would be just blank and grab yeah yeah we don't need to be doing any of this this is intentional Dynamic movement practice so it feels more familiar later I completely agree you don't need to be doing any of this like peel back Pogo in nonsense until the distances are bigger yeah and then it's really really helpful to practice it whenever I practice this stuff I also feel like I'm massively over exaggerating everything I'm doing and I feel a little bit silly but then when I think about it I'm like well when I say over exaggerating the moves what I actually mean is I'm doing the moves at their maximum uh extent that they'd need to be done on harder move so okay cool I'll press this so when you do this one now yeah I and we'll be looking at this on the other client as well I'm not just thinking about the target holds that I'm getting I'm thinking really intently about the body positions that I'm aiming for so when you go for this one don't just aim to get that hold aim to land in that shape like as far far back as you can for Josh is like well who's gone into like really intense coach mode suddenly gone no it's good [Applause] yeah yeah that was really nice as in easiness oh I've made no sense why I said but like oh man I was like I need more coffee I didn't get any of that like you don't have to use very much I'm not using much arms or like much power so this is what I like about using momentum all the time it I think it makes climbs easier but it makes them easier in a specific way and it also makes them harder in other ways so let's just talk really clearly about this I often choose to do a move with like loads of momentum and I'm aiming for like a specific body position if I do all of that and I guess it right then it takes very little strength it just relies on yeah timing confidence I just land in a better body position yeah the downside is really small margin for error I might fall off 100 times trying that yeah so it's a balance but mostly I think about it going oh it's only less efficient if I fall off it millions of times till I get it if I was good enough that I could just do it first time every time well then now it's just more efficient which is why I then practice it all the time okay just to recap the first exercise would be find really joggy holds probably on a vertical or slabby wall make up a couple of dinos and then just experiment and play around with the idea of oh how can I smoothly link these two together if you also consider that idea of purposely letting yourself go off balance so you can pendulum back into the next move that's usually the solution so experiment with that in a warm-up that's a really good one to do now we're going for a harder times we're probably going to more closely follow the intended beta but now imagine that oh no imagine I think this is true okay any move you do could be along the spectrum of absolutely no momentum just blocking off reaching for it slowly huh or loads of momentum like we were practicing just then first off let's just both climb this like a normal person as you would choose to just normally climb it if I wasn't here making you do loads of dinos okay sorry microphone oh I'll laugh a long way oh dear it's hard to hold yeah sorry microphone so I'm now is to do the intended sequence but aiming to do each move as far to the momentum end of the spectrum as we can okay so I don't know how well this is going to work I've not tried this one and that hole is slightly worse than I thought it was yeah but I'm still somewhat hopeful there might be some cool stuff for us to explore so we first off we like slowly got on went hand up yeah and then brought foot up yeah I wonder if there's a way we could speed up those moves even the start move I'm now gonna instead of getting on and doing that yeah I'm gonna try for okay that's that's not too bad oh whoa okay maybe maybe you try well that might change for an easier one because this one is almost died oh that's part of practicing Dynamic movement man dying yeah one near to death yeah oh sweet yeah you can hold it easily okay so now the uh we're gonna start talking about more on the last one we're practicing we talked about the idea of oh if you go further to one side you get more momentum back the other way two reasons for us to do it on this one the further we go this side the better that hold is yeah and we then have more momentum swinging us back into that next move try again but now our aim is not to land it there yeah but to somehow land it here gone yeah is that not that's that's not really what he wanted but now if we can go even further that way yeah we might be able to have not enough momentum just to get the foot there and then to use it yeah exactly okay it's getting there okay so I'm going further right it feels such a weird setup to be like I feel like I'm about to run a wedge yeah it's hard to get the no but did you see what I started doing because I realized like ah from here yeah I don't feel like I've got enough purchase or enough height that I can swing back comfortably so I was jumping up to this one right and that was actually starting to feel really good so I was going to try that a few more times okay maybe you want to jump to here that one that would actually work even better so we're talking about being purposefully off balance yeah just having your hands there and your foot here yeah you're always going to bond all that way yeah if you manage to push yourself even further into it you can go really fast okay let's try that yeah yeah yeah that was it that was it my ass wasn't out so much oh yeah okay that is coming together now yeah well thank you very much so um important thing to think about when we're doing this because actually this is this is actually going quite well we're like chaining some good moves together whenever I do it though I do think really clearly about how the aim isn't necessarily to have some successful outcome right it's just playing and experimenting and learning as I go if we did it awesome great but just by doing this practice we're still learning loads of cool stuff anyway oh that now means no one has to do anything great yeah I could just I need to not stop yeah yeah I think stopping there is a hard place to be yeah no that is that is what I'm doing yeah um so yeah it's the as I get that foot I'm not pushing it away I'm drawing it under me and standing on it okay then swinging back into the next move okay very similar to what we practiced over there okay cool that's really fun beautiful that was quite nice right that was something right onwards for challenge look if you look just over there there's a boba amazing so I'll show you the easier one that I came up with but I I think you are going to do it like within a couple of tries then I'll show you the hard launch I think is the one we'll actually go for so a little foot here nice big handhold yeah swing to stand on here and catch the yellow okay it can be done better than that beautiful beautiful okay so I'm now going to show you the slightly hardables I think that'll be the right difficulty and then we're going to practice but something I spend a stupid amount of time doing is finding a dynamic move practicing it until I can do it and then practicing it again and again and again and again and again until it feels so easy it feels hard not to do it yeah rather than well I don't want to happen and what used to happen with me on slabs sometimes I'd practice slabs sometimes I'd do them and they felt really hard then I just never tried them again then I'll come across them in competition going oh this still feels really hard my only experience of doing these moves is it always feels desperate yeah so repeating them regularly like we're about to do changes that your perception of it from oh yeah it always feels desperate but I sometimes I can do it too I do it and it feels like a warm-up tip because this is actually how I managed to fall off it on my first go um I I washed it I was I was thinking about getting the hand told and thinking about getting the the Palm press and because I was thinking about those I forgot to think about standing up and balancing right if I focus first on standing up and balancing that then gives me all the time I need to think about doing the next move so good tip for dynamic movement don't try and do everything at once focus on the sequence you're doing it with and just focus on doing each of those steps with the right timing if you try and rush it you have to rush it if you focus on the timing it doesn't feel like you need to rush anything oh okay so actually not a terrible demo I managed to balance on this and have so much time that it allowed me to kind of mess up the catch there and there but still save it so all right your turn oh I missed the thumb if you want to because this is again what I practiced before we started this yeah just climb up and feel that position so you know exactly what you're aiming for you can feel the intensity of it when you arrive there it's actually not that bad right yeah it's fine so now your aim is to slowly land in exactly that position this is my flash going here we go here we go the flash go the second flash go oh one thing I think is also really good to talk about when it comes to practicing Dynamic moves like this as we've already said they're easy when they get when you get them right but the margin for error is a lot smaller and so it often takes a lot of attempts be prepared to be persistent because it might take like a hundred tries before you get it just notice like small bits of progress like you're consistently hitting those holes every time now you're hitting the foot perfectly I'm very confident if you literally keep trying it you'll get it and then you'll get it consistently a lot of people just give up uh too early and don't then have that experience gotta keep going so literally just keep going oh yeah oh that was it that was it yeah man yeah I thought oh yeah I don't like it just slid away I know I know yes hold up do it again okay so okay up to you how we do this I usually set myself like arbitrary goals of okay when I can do it one to five times and I go there we go five times in a row perfect let's do it we can also I often do this as a fun part no exercise I only try to get to 10 in a row as a team huh all right so we take it in turns one zero at the moment maybe I get us one one I won't let you download it well I might let you down too though it's okay we're a team yeah two in a row so good it's nice that it actually adds a little bit of pressure as well yeah yeah because you don't want to let the other down exactly but practicing stuff under pressure is good too always gonna fall off they're not gonna lie I'll start again all right cool Wanna Know that was my worst well apart from a lot of times I didn't fall off I'd say that was my worst one but it's not you can always just stop on I know I know but this is what's nice is like as you get more consistent with it your standard for Success starts changing yeah and now like you doing it but doing it badly you're like oh that was a bad one yeah there's already a huge Improvement the uh other one that people sometimes don't notice when they're practicing this stuff and doing it more consistently they get really annoyed when they fall off it having done it like three times in a row no I'm never gonna do it five times yeah exactly I'm like oh think about it this way the first time you did it took 100 tries yeah then you fell off 50 more times we did it a second time yeah then you fell off 25 more times we did it twice in a row then you did it three times in a row then fell off a few more times like you can see that you're getting more and more consistent but oh I'm nervous now it's hard not to do the move because we've now done it successfully so many times we've done it badly so many times he can't possibly fail number ten so just to recap on the stuff we've been practicing so far first thing Josh and I did which I'd really recommend you do in your own sessions we got on jug ladders we were making up dinos and then working out how to link those dinos together that's a really really fun exercise and teaches you a lot we then took what we learned in that exercise onto a mid-level boulder nothing too difficult where as you saw we could both climb it with the intended sequence no problem first go the aim is to then do each move with as much momentum as you can and try and start flowing your way through the movements rather than pulling your way into the different body positions now on to the third challenge which is find a tricky coordination move um this one took us a few goes to get the first time maybe it will be that there's a set coordination move in the gym which is about the level you want to work at maybe it's move you've done before once or maybe like we're doing you just make up your own little running jumps or tow hook catches or paddle dinos whatever it might be practice it until you can do it once then you set yourself a challenge of how many times can you do it it doesn't actually matter if you achieve that challenge but the aim is just stay with it a little bit longer keep practicing until it feels more familiar and then eventually you get to the point that Josh is where he's like I can't not do this move anymore it's so easy now we're going to do another one cool Challenge number two I've now just got a different style of coordination move that I made up for Josh uh we're gonna do a fun paddle Dino double catch thing almost impaled yourself on the battleship don't Empower yourself on the battleship have you seen how much longer my legs are from you how close was I you look like the Eiffel Tower that you know the small one that you buy in gift shops I am the real Eiffel Tower how close is that to the volume I don't think I was that close oh really okay so two arms to this yeah Into the Blue into the pink Bob's your uncle fannies your aunt uh wonderful oh okay perfect so now I was kind of hoping you fall off it so we could talk about it a little bit more um I'll do that for you yeah yeah so um paddle dinos I think look and this is what we're doing now where you catch a hold if it was a worst hold like it was a sloper we wouldn't be able to stay there we'd have to then paddle or jump to the next two holds looks like it's all in the arms yeah watch my legs really carefully while I'm doing it but I think it's basically all in the legs do you know what I mean by uh by a Lashay on a bar no oh so okay um if there's more for like calisthenics and stuff yeah if I wanted to swing off this okay yeah oh do this yeah yeah okay and I'd like whoa it is close you know it is kind of close so yeah a lashe is when you like swing off a bar like that when I do this move I kind of jump into it not with the intention of Landing directly underneath the hole I'm going from but catching it basically in that lashe position right so as I catch it I just naturally swing my legs and bounce me straight to the next ones so have a look at what is what my hands are doing yeah what's what's around here what's your booty what's my booty what's your booty ah I was mesmerized by the booty I don't know what he did nice did I flick though I didn't feel like I did I felt like I was just oh that was better that was bad I felt better I think my hips point to different directions as I do the move but let's look and compare in a minute so here's Josh's one oh I look good and slow-mo yeah you do man look at you go your hips are facing to the wall or left leg kind of pointing leftwards yeah watch what my lower body does as I jump to catch this one look what I'm throwing my legs I'm intentional about throwing them that way yeah and then yeah oh yeah definitely my hips are pointed straight in the direction I want to go and I'm pogoing really hard with the right leg to then throw me into that next catch again just picking up on the very first exercise we did it's the same position again it's the same position once more try that again yes yes much much better that's a win that's a win now do it with catchy the halt okay oh ready yeah I thought that was good enough to be honest I think we're done for the day yes so good Josh yes so so good when you do it like oh it's easy but then until then it feels pretty odd well that's one out of ten ah crap oh he can't fail yes I really didn't think I was going to do that I know again like you know in a row I'm happy okay oh see I told you you could stop there I'll count it okay okay yeah I'm gonna count that no one say anything in the comments I'm watching you I know where you live oh no that was nine ah all right I knew it'd be me you know I mean obviously you all knew it would be me too but so just a quick few extra tips for everyone at home um we're still doing the same exercise as we were a few minutes ago where we're just picking a trickiest coordination move and trying to lap it repeatedly to gain confidence and uh competency with that move uh some extra tips on paddle dinos though which I think are coming up more and more often uh a lot of people make the mistake of jumping to the hold and then trying to like pull really hard to get to the next one as we saw with Josh and I working on it it's all in the legs as you jump to it try and have your legs and your hips trailing behind you so that when you catch you can naturally swing with the legs and almost like a lashe movement in gymnastics or calisthenics swing and then catch the next two with most of the power coming from like pogoing the legs right I'm off this way now I'm still doing this let's start with Duff the red and if you're trying to stop on the volume I'm trying to stop on the two volumes but as you saw I kind of intentionally let go of the Red Jug to force the move okay no I think this is about the right difficulty so addictive like I just want to keep going yeah I know what am I doing differently um lower and further out on the volumes yeah and I'm also um I think this is where the confidence of knowing that I can sit the move comes in yeah if I was thinking about not sticking the move there's no way I'd like lean in at all yeah if I was thinking that I probably wasn't going to sit the move I'd naturally lean out a little bit which then makes it next to impossible to actually stick the move right so think about sticking the moves and soften into it as you land okay is that a good like soften into it yeah that was it that was it oh slightly different movement that time and that actually felt loads better so instead of pushing here switching feet on that side with my left foot first man that felt so much better and it felt really cool as well push there to flip onto the right foot and then step out and get it was close almost I feel like I need more speed on it to like flick around I need to humped the wall harder I don't think I said that in the jokes but yes there we go oh there one outside what sorry that wasn't the rating of how well you did it no 10 out of 10. no I knew what you're saying it's about 10 times it's crazy how you do it once right and then you and then like oh God I gotta do it that many times and you just keep doing it yes I thought you're gonna do that oh that's actually really fun so I want it again now that was as wonderful as I wanted it okay good thank you Josh you were amazing um do you want to recap on some tips yeah we can recap for the video so tip number one explore Dynamic movement in an easy setting while you're warming up on Juggy times make up one Dino make up a second Dino and then try and chain them together using as little power as you can to end up with the most fluid sequence we then explored the idea of purposefully letting yourself go off balance so you have more momentum to feed into the next move then we took that learning onto this was exercise two medium grade Boulders which you can probably flash with the normal sequence but you're then trying to do every move with as much momentum as confidence as possible to make it feel more familiar when that style is actually required which obviously wasn't on the climbing practice then final challenge was what Josh and I just had a brilliant time doing pick a few quite tricky Dynamic moves coordinated stuff that takes you a few attempts to get or lots of attempts to get and then when you get it don't run away and assume that you're done do it again and again and again and give yourself some kind of challenge which gets you trying to do it over and over again you get a lot more confident and a lot more consistent with it like as you saw multiple times Josh was struggling to get the move I'm starting to be a bit unsure if it would work at all then managed it once it felt okay and then we literally got to the point where he was doing it 10 times in a row and founding it pretty easy so really well done man you're very welcome um the coaching helps and this one single session would help what I'd really hope Josh does regularly now is that he goes away and practices this stuff regularly outside of every session then you would kick my ass in like every com because then you'd be tall at the Eiffel Tower and strong and have crazy wild dance moves I didn't have good dance moves right I'm going to dance my way off this way okay cool thanks for watching uh check out Castle list dancing see ya it's the end love it love you bye peace foreign

Channel: Josh Rundle

Views: 77,055

Keywords: pro climber, professional climber, rock climbing, bouldering, competition, climbing competition, indoor climbing, climbing gym, climbing, boulder, extreme climbing, training, climbing training, bouldering comp, bouldering competition, coaching tips, climbing coaching, how to improve your climbing, how to improve as a climber, rock climbing coaching, how to be a better climber, dynamic climbing, dyno

Id: dbZqlYJgXfI

Length: 26min 56sec (1616 seconds)

Published: Sun May 21 2023