Hello I'm professor John Kelly, and this is the Weber Auto YouTube channel in this video we are going to finish assembly of the 2017 Chevrolet bolt evey battery and the 2018 chevrolet volt battery sitting behind me here We have both batteries out of the vehicles sitting right next to each other Let's just take a look at them before we put the covers on them and finish getting them ready to put back in the vehicle Okay, starting with the front view of each battery on the Left. We have our 2017 bolt evey battery 57 kilowatt hour rating nominal and on the right we have the 2018 chevrolet volt battery with an 18 kilowatt hour Rating nominal taking a look at the passenger side of both of these batteries You can see they're both just about the same length the bolt evey battery is a little bit longer looking here at the rear view of both batteries I Believe, they're both just about as tall as each other in The backseat area this back section here the Chevrolet Volt battery is in the shape of a tee Where the bolt battery is just one big flat? Rectangle Except for the rear section on the front of the chevrolet volt battery we have the large two wire electrical connection That feeds current From the battery to the inverter Assembly to drive the electric motors in the transaxle we have two coolant Fittings there inlet and an outlet we have two low voltage electrical Connectors for communication with the battery energy control module, and then we have three outputs to One the coolant heater module for the heater core for the passenger compartment two for the air conditioning Compressor and three is both an output and an input It's an output to our 14 volt power module in the trunk which then converts it from the high voltage down to 14 volts to feed the rest of the vehicle and Then it's also a 2 wire input From our plug-in charger on the side of the bolt here on the front of the bolt evie battery We have the same electrical connections with two exceptions on the far left here. We have our Plug-in charger the level 1 or level 2 charger connection we have our coolant inlet and outlet Ports we have the large 3 water large 2 wire electrical connector there to feed power to the inverter converter assembly to drive the traction motor, and then we have the little gray and the little black low voltage Connectors there for communication in and out of the battery with with other computers so the only connectors this battery did not have compared to the Volt were the outputs to the auxilary coolant module and the electric air conditioning system compressor We are ready to put the covers on both of these batteries and then once we get the covers on them then we have to do what's called a smoke test where we pump smoke a special smoke into these battery housings and check for leaks to make sure that they're sealed properly and then once we've done that then we can put them back in the vehicles and and See if we damaged anything see if the vehicles are going to work Ok again, so let's get the covers on next Okay now we've sat the covers on these batteries I just need to get them bolted down, and then we will go through the smoke testing procedure ok there are six shorter bolts the bolt down the cover around the Service disconnect lever connector And then I believe there are 50 bolts going around the outside circumference of the Upper battery cover Okay, I'm ready to tighten down the bolts for the upper cover I went to the service information to look up the bolt torque And I discovered that there's a sequence to tightening this cover down which makes sense But I also discovered. There's a sequence for loosening the bolts which I did not follow I just went in and took him out didn't pay attention the sequence for Loosening the bolts has a start right here That's bolt number one and then go all the way around to bolt number 50 as far as loosening those bolts but for tightening them This is the thick this is an amazing sequence it'll make any cylinder head tightening sequence or valve body tightening sequence look pale by comparison but You would just have to see it to believe it, but anyway I will follow the sequence and and get these torque down and there's two torque passes you have to do you do the first torque pass at two and a half Newton meters 22 inch pounds and the second one at nine Newton meters at 80 inch pounds so oh my gosh So before I torque any of them I'm going to use my electric gun just to take the play out of all the threads before I put the torque wrench on it I Just realized there's an alignment dowel right here that the first two bolts that we tighten down Go around then the next two bolts big surprise There's an alignment dowel right up here that we tighten those next That actually makes sense then we started the middle and work our way Okay, we're ready to start the first pass of torquing the bolts to two and a half Newton meters or Eleven no 22 inch pounds And finally Geez Alright that was our first pass and now we'll double that torque and take it up to Earn more than double it we'll take it up to 80 inch pounds this time or nine Newton meters Okay now that we have the upper cover on the bolt evie battery We must check it to make sure it is sealed properly and doesn't have any leaks anywhere in it that would allow moisture or dirt or anything else to get inside and Contaminate the battery so there's a special smoke test procedure Where we actually pump a special leaked racing smoke? into the battery housing and watch for leaks outside of the the housing so to be able to do that we need this battery leak test kit and The battery leak test kit it comes with The electrical connectors that fit on the front of this battery except they are Filled the ends of those connectors are filled with some sort of RTV So that when we put this on and these are weather sealed connectors It'll prevent the smoke from coming out of the electrical connectors, so our first step is to install these connectors So over here on the driver's side of the battery we have a gray electrical connector to plug one of the low-voltage Harnesses and a black one to plug the low-voltage harness And then we have the big two wire electrical connector It's going to plug in Just like that it's all plugged up there are no terminals inside of here So there's no electrical connection being made and then finally over here on the passenger side we have the charging system connector and Notice that it has threads on the end of it Those threads are where we are going to hook the hose from our smoke producing machine We have a smoke machine back here and evaporative emissions system smoke machine from snap-on and we have another one from Kent more tools the official GM one Right over here Either one of those smoke producing machines will work for pumping the the lake tracing smoke inside of the housing The official Kent Moore GM special tool. Also has a nitrogen bottle That's connected to it so when we're done doing the smoke test we can flush out the smoke with nitrogen With the snap-on one we would have to get an external tank and hook it up so for this demonstration we will use the official GM Kent Moore tool But I just wanted to show you that you did not have to have that one. It could be another one Okay, the next step in the smoke testing procedure is to cover up the four They're called gore vents that are on the Battery cover itself and these gaurav ants are Events that allow air to move in and out so that pressure equalization can take place Inside the battery housing versus outside the battery, but this Gore material gore-tex. I believe prevents water from coming in and dust and dirt and so on but it lets air go through it but Supposedly nothing else two of these vents are facing up, and this is underneath the car So they're well protected up out of the way of Road dirt and water and everything else and then there are two on the back of that upper housing right there so you've got a one right here on that upper housing and One right there on that upper housing Those are two of the vents that we need to put tape over to prevent the smoke from coming out the other two vents or towards the front of the battery you can see one right there and Another one facing the other direction right there so we have those four vents to tape over they tell us not to use duct tape so I'm going to use a masking tape for Painting and just cover up those vents to keep them from letting smoke out Okay now that I've got all four vents covered we can move on with the next step By the way the leak checking kit comes with 12 Extra gore-tex patches to replace the ones that you take off of these batteries and it gives you the part number of the patches on the bottom of the Little card that comes with it part number two zero seven nine one zero six six or the Valve vents as they call it on this card They're called gore patches in the service manual once again different names for the same part All right, they tell us to do this in a in an area where there's no wind or fans blowing the air So that we can see any smoke that might be coming out It tells us to connect the holes from the smoke test machine and to pump smoke Into the battery housing for five minutes until smoke is observed coming from the manual service disconnect lever connector back there in the center of the battery So we will know that the battery is full when it starts coming out of that electrical connector back there, and then we will put the manual disconnect lever in the connector and seal off that passage and put smoke in to it for three more minutes and During that three minutes. We are to use a high intensity light and filtered lenses to look for the Smoke, that's coming out because it has an ultraviolet dye in it So let's let's get that hose hooked up and start our five minute timer. Okay. I've got the hose right here I'm going to turn on the smoke machine And you can see this UV smoke Coming out ultraviolet dye smoke, so I'm going to connect that to our threaded fitting here on our x4 connector Hit the button to start pumping it in set a timer for five minutes, okay? So now let's watch Out the back cover there as the five minutes counts down and see how long it takes to See smoke coming out of there, and then we'll plug that up and start looking for a leak after three more minutes There's a minute and a half no smoke so far two minutes no smoke Three minutes no smoke, I'm seeing smoke right I hope you can see that Three and a half minutes It's picking up intensity Four minutes So I'm not sure if the service information meant until smoke comes out of this connector or until five minutes I Suspect if it's until smoke comes out, but we will wait Another 30 seconds to get the five minutes up Okay our five minutes is up. Let's put in the Service plug lever and we will now wait for three minutes and Watch for leaks coming out of anywhere around the battery Look I see smoke right here and right here oh It's the The drain plug underneath the water drain plug I didn't tighten that up Get my torque wrench and tighten that up Okay our three minutes are up. I've got the filtered lenses on I'm going to go around and look for any additional leaks Besides the the inspection hole the drain plug bolt The seal of course is where it would be leaking I forgot I was supposed to shut off the smoke machine at the end of that three minutes so there it's off Okay, the next step is to pull the masking tape off of the gore patches, then remove the manual disconnect lever and Then change our smoke machine to a nitrogen Injector and pump nitrogen into the battery for five minutes and verify that no smoke is coming from the vent and When they say vanta I don't think they mean that the vents and the service disconnect lever So let's take off this masking tape It was definitely pressurized I Don't know if you could see that but as soon as they took that off. There was a big poof of smoke Coming out of there all right. I'm going to switch the machine to Nitrogen now and start pumping nitrogen into the system for five minutes Set a timer for five minutes Here we go All right, so we will watch the smoke down there on the end Because we're pumping nitrogen in now I Don't see any nitrogen or any smoke coming out of the Vance once the smoke is Pumped out It tells us to remove all old vents from the drive motor battery and install new Gore patches replacing the old ones I wonder if the smoke damages them from the inside Because the masking tape didn't damage them from the outside at least it doesn't appear to I can't see any damage but We'll give it five minutes Well it's been five minutes, but there's still smoke coming out of there, so we will continue to let it pump nitrogen in It's not going in at a very fast pace or a very high pressure I Can still see smoke It's been another Minute at least start a timer and see how long It's almost gone That's a huge volume of area in here just taking a while to get out I Don't see any more smoke coming out of there, so we'll shut off our nitrogen disconnect everything and put some new Gore patches on See how easy they come off if if at all no not bad Okay, so Here's the front there's the back of one of the gore patches it does have a Strange color On the backside of it probably from that smoke, so it's probably a good thing. We're changing these Now remember the purpose of those gore patches is to allow pressure equalization between the inside of the battery and the outside of the battery If you don't change these you can see there's a slight discoloration on that center part Where it Was over the actual hole in the upper housing there if you don't change these That's there's a possibility I believe that that smoke could partially plug up the ability of this material to breathe so Not a step to skip and I was tempted Since I peeling off that masking tape I thought well I really need to change those because they don't look like they're bad, but it's I think it's underneath that's the problem Alright the replacement gore patches are a lighter color Than the ones we took off, but that's what they give us so That's what we're putting back on Okay, we are finally ready to put this thing back in the vehicle. We're done with all the inspections and disassembly reassembly It's ready to go back so that's next Okay now that we have reinstalled the battery back into the bolt Evie we are ready to reconnect the high voltage harnesses the low voltage harnesses the ground straps and The cooling system we will need to refill the cooling system we will put a vacuum on that pull all the air out of it and let it pull coolant back into the system, so There are no air bubbles And then we will enable the high voltage system Connect the 12-volt battery Check to see if there's any trouble codes or anything that we've set get all those cleared out and see if the system operates normally after all after all of our experiments on the battery, so let's start by reconnecting harnesses at the battery Okay, the first harness. We connect has the x3 connector on the end of it This is the two big heavy orange wires that go from the big heavy orange terminals here at the battery To the inverter assembly under the hood, so let's let's get this connected It plugs straight in and then has a latch lever And that's all there is to connecting the X 3. There is a harness retainer Over here on this side The hooks the harness to one of the bolt threads from the cover bolts The next harness to connect is our x4 connector and that is our Charger connector over here on the other side of the battery So that's this connector here for our charger. We will plug that in Push the connector position assurance clip in that retains it in place Ok the next step is to connect up the two ground wires the bonding wires between the chassis of the vehicle and the battery housing itself Both of the nuts on those ground wires are torqued to the same Nine Newton meters or 80 inch pounds that almost every other bolt and nut on this battery assembly is torque - All right, then we've got a couple of body harness connectors next here With connector position clips So I'm following the step-by-step procedures in the service information and The the one thing it has not told me to do is to connect the the two coolant hoses To the the battery obviously we need to do that because the next step in the In the procedure is to fill the cooling system so let's get the those connectors on All right, we've got the inlet and the outlet hose Plugged in and connected So now we will let the vehicle down reconnect the high voltage connector At the inverter assembly on top that we disconnected previously and then fill the cooling system and pressure test it Okay, we've got the one high-voltage two wire electrical connector under the hood that We need to plug back in That's plugged back in That's the one that we had to unplug to do voltage measurements in the very first video that I did on this bolt Evie to verify that we could not measure battery voltage here under the hood at this box on top of the inverter assembly The official name for it is the high voltage battery disconnect control module assembly It's a mouthful. It's pretty much Just where all the wires high voltage harnesses connect and are routed to different places under the hood here. Okay. We are ready to Put coolant back in the battery cooling system and heating system same thing As I mentioned in previous videos we are supposed to use the pre-mixed 50/50 Dexcool coolant from General Motors, I have a special reservoir here That's part of the vac and fill kit to evacuate and refill cooling systems That is the official tool for this bolt cooling system, and so I'm going to add more coolant to this reservoir So that we can pull that that coolant into the cooling system once we put a vacuum on it All right I have it I've added more than enough coolant to refill this system the capacity on the system is 7.1 liters and we are currently sitting at about 10 liters on the graduated scale here, so we can watch how much coolant goes in by watching the graduated scale on this we're Okay, right here under the hood is the coolant reservoir for the battery system And if you try to just unscrew that reservoir cap it just turns and turns of turns and won't come off I've removed it already, but there's a little slot in the edge of the cap where you take a little pocket screwdriver and There's a notch on the other side that it will line up with and then allow you to unscrew the cap itself Now to put coolant back in here and fill up all of that battery those cooling plates and the coolant pump and hoses going From this reservoir to the pump and to the battery itself in front of the battery You can't just pour coolant in here and expect it to purge itself of all the air We have to put a vacuum on the system and pull all the air out of it, so there is a special adapter a special Service tool from General Motors that we have to screw on To the reservoir cap or the reservoir itself in place of the cap and Then there's a special radiator cap adapter with a Quick Connect fitting for us to hook our vacuum hose to that we put on next Lock that in place and then We have a vacuum gauge with a Quick Connect fitting on the back that goes on top of that adapter and Then we have a hose coming from our Vacuum source down here on the floor that we plug in right here So we are going to take our shop air our compressed air hose connect to our vacuum Orifice here and pull a vacuum on the entire system For our elevation here at about 4600 feet up here on the side of the mountain We are expecting Wendie inches of vacuum to 24 inches of vacuum Let's just watch and see what we get But once we get the maximum amount of vacuum possible then we will pull coolant into the cooling system and Go from there All right, I've got the shop air connected. Let's start producing a vacuum and see how much vacuum we can pull All right, it's hard for me to see the top of that at the moment, but I just took a picture of it We are halfway between 20 and 25, so 22 23 inches of vacuum We'll let that go a little bit more It looks like that's about where we're going to stay So our next step is to open This valve right here that allows the coolant to be pushed into the Cooling system now. We are going to bring it up to the level of this vacuum Tee right here So that when we open it when we're really ready to put cooling in We don't have a hose full of air that we just pulled into the system as well, so I'm going to open the valve to allow coolant to start coming in here comes Okay, so we've got the the hose full of coolant we're still pulling the vacuum Now we're going to turn off our vacuum source We were supposed to watch our gauge and see if we have any vacuum decay, which would be an indication of a leak So far it looks like it's holding Let me check one more time Still looks good so the process from here is to open this valve to allow the coolant to be pushed into the system with atmospheric pressure since we've created a vacuum inside here and once the vacuum level drops down to So low that we can't pull any more coolant in then we put more vacuum on the system, and we keep repeating and repeating Until we quit pulling coolant into the system indicating that it's full So here we go. I'm going to open the valve and let cool and go in Let's watch the tank and see how far it goes down It's going in Coolant in the reservoir is dropping. I can see it in the the tank here Under the hood We're still holding a pretty good vacuum pulling that in It's a lot of lot of surface space in that in those coolant plates of the battery Still pulling Okay, we've lost our vacuum, so we'll turn on our vacuum one more tour will produce more vacuum again There we go we've got some vacuum whoops Except now we're pulling cooling back out of the system, so I think we're full Okay so the next step in the Cooling system fill procedure is to use the scan tool and command the electric water pump for the battery cooling system to circulate the coolant through the system Just to make sure that there's nothing No air bubbles or anything else left in the system But we can't do that yet because we haven't finished Enabling the high voltage and low voltage systems on this vehicle so the next thing we need to do is get back on the high voltage gloves plug in the service plug lever under the backseat area and then connect our 12-volt battery here under the hood and then power up the system and See what we get as far as trouble codes warning lights anything like that before we can even go into the scan tool To command a coolant pump to run, so let's do that next You Alright, I'm going to connect the 12 volt battery, and then we'll power this thing up and see what happens Alright let me open the driver's door Hey Got something going on there alright go ahead, and hit the brake pedal and What does it say anything plug to charge? Okay, go ahead and fire it up like you normally would Any weird messages or no smoke coming out Yeah, all right now stay there. Let me get the this we got to plug the scan tool in Okay, the next step is with the scan tool that we've got hooked up here the the MDI Is to scan tool with GDS? software from GM is to run the coolant pump for the battery electronics cooling for five minutes, so let me turn that on Set a timer for five minutes Okay while we have that coolant pump running for five minutes. We are supposed to maintain a vacuum of at least 15 inches on the cooling system Looks like we're back up to our 24 inches of vacuum we have three minutes left We still have our pump running at 80 percent battery temperature is 75 degrees Fahrenheit Pump speed is 30 450 rpm Okay, we've vacuum for the last five minutes with the coolant pump running at its maximum speed allowed by the scan tool and our Coolant reservoir tank is just a little bit overfilled so our next step is to take all of this off of here And then use the vacuum to pull down the Level in the reservoir down to a mark on the side of the reservoir The mark doesn't have any text near it it just has some arrows pointing to this mark which would indicate. That's the desired fluid level Okay, I'm going to use this tube with a vacuum to pull down the the level Oh looks like it dropped when I pulled the Cap off anyway, so we will have to add Just a tiny bit more Coolant. I'm just going to pour some in through the the cap We're about 17 millimeters low in the reservoir it looks like All right that looks good All right first road test Actually we can't drive it on public roads because it's not licensed or registered We're just going to do a few laps in our parking lot out here Just do a few laps you don't need to do anything hard just You I didn't go look you can just Look okay we filled up the cooling system got the fluid level right we ran the Hybrid evie battery pack coolant pump for five minutes with the vacuum on it got all the air out Set the fluid level correct And then went and drove around our parking lot a few times just to make sure that we didn't have any Trouble code set or anything any weird warning lights come on from disassembling the battery and having it out And I'm happy to announce that there wasn't a single trouble code that triggered nothing at all would indicate that we'd removed the battery pack and totally disassembled it and I'm sure that's because we followed the proper service procedures for disabling high voltage system Which always includes disconnecting that 12-volt battery first? Otherwise you latch all kinds of trouble codes and cause problems that you need a factory scan tool like this one here To clear before you can drive the vehicle again I did not use a factor scan tool at all the the GM scan tool To disable the hybrid system, there's two ways you can do it you can do with the scan tool And you can do without and the without procedure I discussed in my very first video on removing the the high voltage battery and It was quite easy to do There's a there's a way where you can do it with the scan tool But if you don't have a scan tool, you can still do it And I'm glad they built that procedure in I wanted to show you a few other things here on the Scan tool that we can we can do and what you may have to do if you if you actually change the battery See I did not change the battery so I put the same battery back in But if you put it in a different battery pack or change the be ECM Or the relay assembly or anything inside there may be some programming that you have to do for the hybrid powertrain control module number two to be able to learn the battery capacity and Make sure that the programming level of all the modules that are communicating with each other is at the same level so if we go in to The scan tool here the the GDS the global diagnostic system GDS - they call it and we'll go in under control functions things we can control We have the air conditioning compressor That is used to cool the battery coolant that is circulated through those coolant plates that we looked at When the battery is hot unlike the Nissan Leaf that relies on the temperature of the air in the passenger compartment to cool the battery with battery charging efficiency test clearer secured high voltage trouble codes a secured high voltage trouble code is what would have said if you pull your high voltage service disconnect lever out without disconnecting the 12-volt battery first And you have to have this scan tool to go in and do that we have the cooling fan motor on the radiator DC charge port lock high voltage disabling work and go in and Automatically do it for you make sure that the contactors are open Proper voltages are everywhere to where you don't have to go in with a multimeter and and do as many checks as I did when I did it manually You can control the contactors we can run an active isolation isolation Test to make sure that the high voltage system is isolated from the low voltage system. We can run the coolant pump elect We've already done There's the battery pack heater Isolation test that we can do to make sure that the high voltage Battery pack coolant heater for when the battery is cold we heat the cool and going through those coolant plates To heat the battery make sure there's no loss of isolation high voltage isolation there We can turn on and off the high voltage battery pack heater We can control the charging contactor in that relay assembly that we looked at and the Electronics cooling pump, which has a separate cooling pump and separate reservoir to cool the inverter? Can convert our accessory power module and so on? Now if we go back one screen? Go to configuration and reset functions learn functions Here is the hybrid evie battery pack capacity learn Procedure, and I'm not going to do it because we have not installed a new battery But if you had installed a new battery it has to learn what the battery pack Capacity is and that's what you would do with this This option right here And then we can look at also Besides diagnostic trouble codes if any we can look at the data display for the entire Eevee system here we have battery charger control module data charge history data contactor data DC battery charge data DC battery charge history high voltage contact or lockout status high voltage disabled data Heater ventilation air conditioning system data hybrid battery pack contactor open reasons the reason they opened evie battery pack active cooling data powertrain control module number two data Which is the external computer that communicates with the B ECM inside the battery pack? Temperature data, we can look at the current temperatures and voltage data. Let's look at the temperature data. Just for the heck of it So it looks like our maximum temperature so far has been 75 degrees Fahrenheit minimum has been 73 ambient air temperatures 68 All right, let's take a look at voltage data Looks like our battery pack voltage at the moment is three hundred eighty seven point nine two volts minimum battery module voltage Per. Cell group is four point zero 2 Which voltage sensor has that voltage so which cell of the 96 cell groups? It is notice. It's jumping around Cell 92 cell 42 there's a cell 70 that shows up in there and now and again Battery pack minimum voltage for maximum voltage was 402 point four eight Minimum was 241 point two eight that must have been when we purchased the vehicle And it was not charged the 402 point four eight must have been at a full charge Battery pack resistance 14 volt available powers 25 kilowatt So we could spend all day here looking at scam tool Data and other things that we can do on the scan tool and I'll try to make some different videos on what we can look at and what we can do with the Factory scan tool on the Chevrolet bolt here What might be useful? What might be just interesting and? and so on These are the on-board modules on this Chevrolet Volt evie There's quite a list of them here Each one of those has their own data list trouble codes functions that we can control on and off programming and so on so there's a lot of A lot of things we can look at there Okay well This bolt evie project is coming to an end as far as the battery is concerned I Still plan on removing the electric motor and the inverter the auxiliary power module and other components here Coming up here in a month or so It's been a lot of fun working on this Chevrolet bull DV very interesting our students will benefit from this or faculty will benefit from it and It's a wonderful resource The next thing I'm going to do is put our 2018 chevrolet volt Battery cover back on smoke test it leak check it put it back in do the same thing We just did with this fill up the cooling system. Make sure everything works right before we Before we remove the transaxle the 5 ET 50 transaxle out of that Chevrolet Volt and explore the five modes of operation that that transaxle has So until then thank you for watching. Have a good day You You
