Car Wiring 101

hey everyone so I got some requests that some you would like to see how I wired up my effector e5 mark 4 I'm gonna do just that and I'm gonna add that the concepts I'm going to show you our Universal on nature meaning they'll apply to most 12-volt systems out there before we get into that though I understand that too many awarenes like reading Latin and I'm here to tell you it's not that bad you don't need an expensive wearing harness you just need to plan and take your time for me that meant picking a location with good accessibility and then building the system around it wiring up the car was my favorite part of the whole project just because you can do some really neat customization and really make it your own alright let's get into this I'm gonna start out with the heart of the electrical system which is the fuse box in the trunk an important component to include in your system is a DC breaker so this basically is a fusible link and you want to locate this as close to the battery as possible in addition to dead shorts the breaker protects the conductor's feeding the fuse box from excessive current draw something to note the starter does not pull through the fusible link that's a completely different circuit because you can pull hundreds of amps when cranked in next is the fuse box and that's pretty self-explanatory and I also chose to use terminal blocks and this is more for a cable management the terminal blocks don't do anything they just keep your fuse box nice and clean and the most important components in my fuse box are five bosch relays so they're important for a number of reasons but the main reason is is I can lock them out with the key and I don't need to run large gauge wire all over the car I'm using them to trigger the horn the cooling fan the starter obviously that's when I lock out with the key so someone can't start your car ignition an important attribute there is I can actually turn the car off with that same relay and then of course the fuel pump the way a Bosch relay works is you trigger them with a low amperage input like a toggle switch or a push-button and that in turn feeds your load so that's like your starter your ignition your cooling fan whatever you want I'm a big believer in hands-on learning so rather than looking a wiring diagram or draw schematic I built this fixture to demonstrate how everything works together we're gonna build a circuit which is basically a simplified version of my fuse box and the way I set up this plate here is it represents the power flow from your battery to your accessory going left to right that first component you saw me put on is a DC fuse and that represents the breaker I showed you earlier in the fuse box next I'm putting on a key switch and that's an on/off switch that lets power through and that in turn feeds the relay again that gives you the lockout ability the relay so you can lock that out lock that power next is a toggle switch and that's what we're gonna use to trigger that really on and off and we're triggering it on a path to ground that's that ground stuff I put on there and then lastly is the load and that's what the relay is gonna feed when it triggers now we're gonna wire up the relay trigger so that's feeding pin 86 to ground and which is 85 we start by connecting the fuse box to our key switch and that let's power through to our relay next we're gonna run the relay to a toggle switch and again remember this is path to ground so that toggle switch just limits that path the ground until we flip the switch and then of course we're adding a ground lead to the switch all right I added some leads from a car battery on the left and right and next we're going to tap into the fuse box to power the load inside of the relay and that's pin 30 so that's what we're gonna be switching and then on the other side is pin 87 and that's our load so in this case it's an LED now if we did everything right we're gonna hit that toggle switch and that LED should come on okay I've gotten into my car and I'm gonna put the key in to power that relay because without the key the relay doesn't seem power and I turn on my fuel pump or my fan and boom comes on and off so the relay is working and then to make sure I have that security I'm gonna turn the relay off or take power away and sure enough the light goes out so you have a nice secure circuit the wiring scheme I used is all built on this same concept just five times over and as you can see it really wasn't very hard to do however if you had computers and fuel injection to the mix well things can get complicated in a hurry before I let you go I wanted to bring you up to speed on my what's next project unfortunately genuine Mustangs are in short supply and the lead time on a gt40 is excessive so I'm leaning pretty strongly towards putting an LS in my c3 however I wanted to thank everyone for their feedback and I guess we'll see what happens why don't you leave me a comment let me know what you think and thanks for watching [Music] [Applause] [Music]

Channel: TacoJoe

Views: 42,069

Rating: 4.9245281 out of 5

Keywords: Factory Five, Factoryfive, Factory5, MK4, Painless wire harness, Cobra, Shelby, Shelby Cobra, Bosch Relay, Superformance, Corvette, LS Swap, hotrod, Ford GT, GT40, soldering, wiring, how to wire relay, dc breaker, Mustang, 5.0, ratrod, Race Car Replicas, Tesla

Id: CzVraj_aL54

Length: 5min 22sec (322 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 16 2020