Can We Make This V10 BMW M5 Mechanically Perfect? - E60 M5 6-speed - Project Raleigh: Part 7

coming up i spill yogurt oh no astonishing before and after m5 gets new suspension developed at james maze's favorite place on earth and we fixed the sunroof hello hello and welcome to part 7 of project rally the glorious 2007 e60 m5 with the magnificent 6-speed manual transmission this is the car that all of you love this is the car that i love and we had six episodes on this project so far in between those six videos this very car has collected over five million views that's a pretty crazy number if you think about it and get a lot of this it's been reliable it hasn't given me any issues yet i took it on a road trip recently around 600 700 kilometers to buy another project it just performs flawlessly no check engine light it just goes and screams down the road and it's incredible satisfying pleasure to drive this car glorious just fabulous v10 engine and then you have the manual gearbox it just doesn't get any better than that in this episode it's time to give it more love the rear right shock is slightly leaking and it's time to refresh all of them we're also going to do throttle actuator service as part of preventing maintenance they're known for going bad and i don't have any records of them ever being done and we're also going to do the vowel covers at the same time and in general i just want to be on top of everything with this car so it performs 100 all the time there are also some small things that mirror is not folding properly the sunroof needs a new seal and i think one of the tire pressure sensors is bad so we're going to do that as well that's more or less what we're going to do today so let's bring it inside and get this party going [Music] nurse please rolling the tools and the gloves of course senor feeling fancy today so we'll go with the white gloves don't establish 10 millimeter there you are a heart surgeon once told me every surgery starts with a 10 ml socket we're kicking off with the wall cover gaskets and throttle actuator service which means we have to go to the trunk of the car to disconnect the battery here's a million dollar idea holster for the 10 mil ratchet that's the negative cable plastic there to get to the actuators and valve cover gaskets we need to remove some stuff here namely the intake plenums and air filter boxes now the plenum it's a pipe here so some people say removing plenums on this car is difficult it's actually one of the easiest things you can do on this car all you need is good long extensions every time before we proceed any further i'm going to cover up the throttle bodies and then use compressed air to blow out all of this dust and crap so it doesn't end up in the engine [Music] so first we're going to remove the throttle actuators they live right over here underneath this wiring harness so we need to disconnect a couple of stuff lift this up and then we can access the bolts that hold them in place be careful not to lose these now we're going to remove the coils and get this part of the harness here and that's this part of the wiring harness free this can sit on the side it's one connector it's just a sea of connectors there's one down there how do you even get to it oh i see there's a bolt in the back now we can lift this thing up in the air bungee rope say hello to the throttle actuators first disconnect rodney trotter like that and now christen it with one as in bank one and then bank that's why so i'm using my magnetic socket it's rather simple i just stuffed small magnets inside the socket so i can't lose bolts that way numero eins and numa dos all right we're going to play with the octodors a bit later now we're going to go ahead and replace the vault cover gaskets they are not leaking per se but the main reason why i want to replace them is because i want to look inside the engine if you remember we've done the bottom end on this car and everything looked great there so i want to make sure that everything on the top end is looking good as well now i need to disconnect the harness for the injectors and get it out of the way oh no my battery is dead guess we'll do some drill action [Music] uh oh would it ever come back to me all right i went fishing and i caught my ratchet with a 10 mil and that's all of them removed so i think we're gonna do a quick vacuum session and then start prying the small cover off so there's a corner here where we can slowly start prying and here all right there it is now i need to remove this stupid thing here remove this put it on the side and now we should be able to take this thing out there we are i mean overall looks fairly clean let's do the finger test so have a look-see everything looks really good in here no major sludge buildup looks decently clean the cams look good no scoring or anything like that they're smooth and nice to touch you can also see that the timing chain guides are good there's one over there it's not broken and another one over there that looks good the gears look good as well so overall pretty happy with all of this so now we're gonna do the other side in case you're wondering what that noise is that's my landlord tuning a spitfire anyway so rinse and repeat here as well all right equally awesome on this side as well fairly clean camshafts look good nice and smooth gears look good the guides look good so the top end of this engine is healthy as well here's everything on the table these spark plug tubes i forgot to buy them i ordered them now so they're coming tomorrow morning and the rubber grommets for the bolts i have a rant coming your way in a bit but the valve covers they're not plastic this is aluminium or aluminum which gives us a perfect opportunity to use my aqua blast cabinet to clean them so i'm going to strip them completely off all of this so it's just bare metal and then we're going to make them look better than brand new you're going to love this now let me see if i can salvage the stick here ah can't salvage the sticker doesn't matter maybe i can order a new one so we're gonna start with this one and we're gonna do the half half thing so you can see just how effective it is it's not exactly half but close enough goose tape it's not very good this is my aquablast 1215 cabinet from vixen surface treatments and this is a vet blasting or vapor blasting cabinet it uses water glass bead media and compressed air and unlike sand blasting where it's crops up the surface and you have to paint the part later this cleans and treats the surface at the same time and especially if it's aluminium you don't have to paint that part later because the finish looks absolutely stunning it's nice and smooth and it looks like a painted part but it's not so it's just a brilliant piece of kit and now we're going to get to the business of blasting very spacious inside [Music] hey incredible absolutely incredible [Music] i so that's it [Music] good god this looks good look at that look at the difference can you tell which part was treated it's insane that's i think enough admiring now we're going to go ahead and finish the rest of it unbelievable finish nice and smooth to touch and beautiful to look at i also cleaned on the inside that's spotless as well and i spent some good quality time now with a water hose and compressed air thoroughly rinsing this out because you don't want any of that media to end up in the engine that can cause some proper damage so you really have to take care of that but the finish is is unbelievable and this didn't even take that long to do so since this is aluminium you don't have to do anything further you don't need to paint it you don't need to coat it if you want you can put clear coat as extra layer of protection but then again this comes from the factory uncoated and exactly like this well not vapor blasted but just bare aluminium clean this up a little bit so it looks the part here's a quick tip buy yourself a box with o-rings can't tell you how many times this thing saved me for example just right now i forgot to order o-rings for the camshaft position sensors and i found a perfect match in the box for the oil filler neck i did remember to buy one and i also bought these oil valve separator things that are on the back of the valve covers this was cheap so might as well so this is ready to go back in i took the opportunity and removed all of the spark plugs and looked inside all of the cylinders happy to report that all of the spark plugs look exactly the same across the range they're firing perfectly and as you can see the color on the tips everything looks in perfect order and cylinder walls unlike project chicago they look perfect look at that and look at that piston that's not even a lot of carbon buildup for an engine that has over 230 000 kilometers very clean look at that another one yeah very happy with that so now we're going to reinstall all the spark plugs and then put back the valve covers story time i stopped by the dealer this morning and got robbed i had to buy 10 of these these are spark plug tubes they go between the valve cover and the cylinder head and the spark plug goes through it they have rubber seal on the top and the bottom and this is what i like to call robbery at the gunpoint because if you don't replace these they're absolutely going to leak and you have no choice you have to pay the price which is 15 euros for one of these 150 for 10 of them so very cheap and then we come to the valve cover bolts every single bmw engine that i ever worked on has these rubber grommets sold separately you can buy them as aftermarket as oe or from the dealer they're very cheap like 20 30 50 cents on this particular engine s85 v10 engine there are no aftermarket alternatives you cannot buy the zoe you can only buy directly from the dealer and they are conveniently selling this only complete with the bolt they will not sell this grommet separately wanna guess how much one of these costs seven and a half euros times 30 225 euros so that's where they brought out the tank and said i want your money and that's why i said nah brah did a big fat burn out and left true story he might not be and this is where i refuse to waste money and i'm going to reuse the old ones and before you call me a cheap bastard for using these in case you missed previous episodes i have over 10 000 euros in parts in this car and in this episode plus another three and i'm not going to waste money where i don't have to and i'm going to show you a trick how to reuse these so you can put them back like this these are actually in good shape they're not cracked or worn they're still nice and soft and they might leak might not leak but i'm gonna play it extra safe and this is the trick that i use trying to seal a little bit of this sealant on the edge of the rubber grommet and when you squish it it's gonna seal 100 percent all the time i've done this in the past and it absolutely works then the valve cover gasket that thankfully you can buy a zoe from victor ryan's not expensive 15 20 euros but why they decided to do this still baffles me so to keep this gasket in place from falling out when you turn the valve cover upside down and you start fitting it we're going to use the trick with zip ties so we just use couple of them here and there and that's going to hold the gasket in place and then once this is placed in its position you just cut them here and pull them out super easy and convenient and that way you know for sure you're going to fit the gasket properly that should do it clean the surface sorry about the noise but it's very cold today and i have to have the heater on all right this side is ready i'm going to do the same on the other one other side down as well now we're going to do the spark plug cubes we need to apply a little bit of engine oil on the ceiling rubber and then pop it in and now put a repair manual we need to put a thin bead of sealant here where the vanos meets the head that way it doesn't leak on this gap here just like that on the bottom as well well cover going back in give it a nice push now you can cut the zip ties give it a final push still got to make sure that the gasket is seated properly all around mirror all good there so i applied a very thin layer of sealant there there is no specific torque for these bolts in the repair manual you just slowly do them up from inside to out and you're also going to feel when the bolt bottoms out just stop there and you can't over torque the bolt and with that this side is done and then copy paste on bank two and that's the valve cover gaskets done and now the party piece throttle actuators these are a common failure point on e90 m3 e60 m5 and also the m6 and there are two types of failures the first one is mechanical failure where these gears fail they wear away or something breaks the second one is the electrical failure where the board itself or something on the board is bad and that's the case where you can't fix it yourself you either have to replace this complete unit or send it to a specialist to get it repaired in our case there are no issues whatsoever everything is working perfectly fine but these gears are known for going bad so i want to do that as part of preventing maintenance because once they go they go the car is going to go in the limp mode and you're not going to be able to drive it properly or it can leave you somewhere stranded so i got this kit from jason from rebuild.org the uk and he offers the service to rebuild these for you or he can sell you a kit that comes with instructions you can find everything on his website and these gears are made of some special composite whatever plastic supposedly very very strong and comes with the glue as well so now we're going to take it apart and do the mechanical service of this throttle actuators he also offers a lifetime warranty on all these parts really nice guys so if you have any issues with this stuff then you can contact him directly and he'll take care of you not sponsor anything like that i paid for this but just so you know that there's a specialist that does this stuff i'm going to give them a quick clean first so we're going to open the first one that's the board and that's our gears so here's the inside of it all of the gears and you can see some shredded plastic in the corner there and on the first glance this one doesn't look too bad but then you remove this gear and you can actually see how worn this gear is just compare the teeth here and here and you can see how thin it is this would definitely fail pretty soon so good thing we're in here doing this service okay now we need to break and remove this half gear so we're gonna go to the bench rise now i need to drill here and here in order to weaken this half gear so we can break it off the key is to only drill through the plastic and not touch the shaft so let's see how that goes [Applause] [Music] all right [Music] let's see if we can break it there it is destruction [Applause] that's that removed there's a washer and we can pull out the shaft so i didn't damage it i didn't touch it with the drill which is good the next step is to file off the slip but only the lip we do not touch the splines right now it's stopping this gear from sliding on so once we remove it we can put some glue there and hammer it on and that's the lip gun now it's the fitting stage first i'm going to use the air compressor and just blow out all of this washer goes here washer on here now we're going to mix up the glue then apply it on the shaft and the gear then we need to catch the spring with the gear do one full rotation anti-clockwise to put tension on the spring and then push it onto the shaft and then the rest of the way we're gonna hammer it on so now you're gonna twist just all the way like that and i'll smack it all the way in that's perfect it needs to have a little bit of play so the amount of plane that you need to have here is between half a mil and two mils it cannot be tight if it's tight then you need to hammer it here and just create more play and that's all there is to it that's the hard part done the next is just to fit this brand new gear there and put back the cover and put it back on the car so very important to make sure that the pins clip into the board perfect finished hopefully you can see there but same type of wear here as well all right so we're going to grease up rodney here just to tickle there you go and now it's just the process of replugging everything and putting back all of this electrical mumbo jumbo together well who put you there everything is just crispy plastic and that's everything buttoned up all right time to start it she's back her is like an agricultural machine and i know what you're thinking aren't you going to detail that engine bay i will just not now i still use this car it's middle of winter i don't want to do more cleaning than i have to but we will detail the engine bay at one point all right i'm gonna go drive it around warm it up make sure there are no leaks and then we're gonna move on and do some other stuff oh yeah i forgot to put back the reinforcement bar fixed now i can go for a drive i'm back from the test drive and happy to report that all is well in the m5 world the engine still works there are no oil leaks and i also did a quick oil change just because we had the engine open and now we're going to move on to the shocks but first we need to feast while on the test drive i stopped by a lovely old-school turkish bakery got myself burke with cheese and also something with cheese and you can't go to a turkish place and not get baklava and also yogurt so let's gently devour this oh no so i have oil stains all over me and now yogurt stains as well i love the way that door shuts so the shocks if you watched previous episodes then you know we replaced all of the control arms ball joints and bushings on this car the only thing still remaining original in the suspension are the shocks the right one is leaking i'm going to show you that in a bit but with over 230 000 kilometers it's time to refresh them this car has edc suspension which stands for electronic damper control electronically adjustable shocks and that is a brilliant option because it allows you to choose what kind of ride firmness you want to have it essentially has three settings when the edc button is off that would be a comfort setting something that i always use when driving in the city it makes the ride really bearable on bad roads and then you have the middle setting which is a sporty setting that's something that i typically use when driving on the autobahn it just makes the car feel more tighter and more firmer and stable at higher speeds and then you have the third and final setting which is full-blown stiff that's something that i pretty much never use but that is something you would typically use when you take the car to a race track it makes the suspension feel really firm and really tight so the fact that you can do that choose what kind of ride you want to have i love that and that's something i definitely want to keep when it comes to keeping edc suspension you have two options first one is getting original shocks from the dealer and the second one are bill stein bielstein has two options for this car b6 damtronic non coilover shocks that allow you to keep the edc setting and they also have b16 coilovers that also allow you to keep the edc setting and since i don't really like coilovers i have no need for them i don't like lowering my cars and for me always the main criteria is comfort therefore we are going with b6 so let's have a look here's everything laid out on the table these are bilstein b6 shocks and they are a thing of beauty aren't they developed at james maze's favorite place on earth we have all new hardware all new bolts nuts cables that come with the shocks and also all new strut mounts bearing spring pads and whatnot as you all know i am working with bilstein they're one of the supporters of the channel and normally they would provide me these shocks but in this particular instance they didn't simply because they don't have them in stock they've been back ordered for a while and i was planning to do this video for quite some time so i ended up ordering these online and these sent me back around two and a half thousand euros which is expensive but then again that's always the case with edc shocks even the ones from the dealer they're around 3 000 euro but bilstein is going to send me these exact same shocks in april that's when they're going to do another production run and the plan is to sell those so i can recoup some of the costs that i have here so if you are in the market for these parts send me an email and i can hook you up with a nice price but without further ado let's install them up it goes [Music] since we'll need to unbolt the control arms in order to get the strut out we need to remove the protection panels the front one i removed yesterday when i did the oil change and now i can remove my expensive transmission protection pro tip use your head to hold the thing well there you go try not to break it it's very expensive also did i mention it's very expensive would you look at that bmw with no oil leaks what does that mean it has no oil or service properly this one on the first glance is not leaking this shock here is leaking and it didn't leak before see how wet that is the oil that means that this shock is actively leaking okay so there's a bunch of stuff that we need to unbolt here before we can pull out the strut some clip brake pad wear sensor and wheel speed sensor how does this work i forgot this bloody clip [Music] like that important to wear eyeball protection here put it on the side like that so the repair manual says to remove the rotor but we're not going to do that at least not for now this is much better design than when you have to hold on the other end with a thin 16mm spanner now i'm going to remove this arm here for the xenon headlight height control because we need to unbolt and lower this control arm now we need to unbolt this tie rod ball joint and that's the sugar nut removed so now i'm going to remove this plastic here because it's in the way now we need to unbolt the thrust arm bushing had some mic difficulties there but what you missed is me saying stupid bolt now you're gonna remove this one now we can finally remove the pinch bolt and now i'm going to use a chisel to spread this knuckle as you can see it's already coming down there it is so now we can move it to the side that's the entire wheel hub assembly with the knuckle and rotor removed now we're going to go up top and unbolt the strut unclip the harness that's the connection so that's the connection that we need to use on the bilstein one and it's finally out now we need to disassemble the shot because we are reusing the spring but before we start doing that we need to mark the position of the spring we're going to do that by drawing a line on the spring pad and the strut and that way i can put the spring pad on the new strut mark it there as well and line up the spring properly and there you have it this is the best spring compressor in the world now we can remove the top nut there we go that wasn't too bad what is that what's that smash the pieces pretty strange actually not too bad so whatever this is it's not part of the assembly it's not on real oem no idea how i ended up in there maybe someone put it there so let's see what happens when we compress this thing oh my god utterly shot look at that wow this should bounce back i mean you can't exactly test them this way but it should somewhat bounce back and this one doesn't so that means this strut is bad really happy that we are doing this now and bilstein doesn't use bump stops it has an internal bump stop so you don't use this thing um take this put it on here line it up and now we know where the spring goes now i'm going to grab the new parts first this cup then that goes in here like that then this cup and the nut now give it a nice good and tight perfect perfect that's it and here you can see the end of the spring lined up properly there are two things that are different on the original unit and billstein the first one is the connection on the original strut it's on the top and on bilstein it's on the bottom so we need to run some wires through the wheel arch up to the top and connect it the second difference is this notch here the original one has it right over there so you can line it up with the knuckle real easily bilstein doesn't have that so now i'm going to show you how we're going to still line it up properly there's a mark here left and right and depending on which side you're using this strut you're going to draw a line exactly like that we're using this one on the right side so we're going to draw a line like this and then that line needs to line up with the gap in the steering knuckle like that you don't even have to draw a line you can just look at this here and then line it up with the knuckle whatever is easier for you you also have to line up this pin on the shot mount with the hole in the strut tower actually i want to clean that on the inside we'll do the final torque later i think we're gonna need hugh jackman jr here i'm gonna go get him this is now lined up properly there it is that's now fully seated you can see that the r is perfectly lined up with the gap on the steering knuckle and now we can torque the pinch bolt there you have it lined up properly and torque to spec now it's just a matter of reassembly very important that you don't torque these with the car up in the air if you do that and then you lower the car you're gonna twist these bushings and they're gonna wear out pretty quickly so final torque for all of the bushings always on all of the cars are done with the car on the ground you lower it you drive it back and forth for the suspension to settle and then do the final torque come on and now the wiring this is what comes with bilstein sharks and this is the original connector just gotta figure out how to do this so here we go i just removed the plastic bend that was in this connector and now we can do this and it's gonna look apart it's not gonna look out of place and plug it in and then this is gonna go through the cutout in the wheel housing where the wires for the brake pad sensor and wheel speed sensor go through that's all neatly done goes down there through the wheel arch and now we're gonna connect it to the strut and then i'll come back up here and zip tie all of this these small zip ties are very difficult to use so that's all professionally zip tied in place all the way down to the strut plugs in here and i routed it right next to the wheel speed sensor cable so it's not going to get caught on anything made it all nice and tidy on the top as well and with that this side is finished so i found something interesting on the left side this spring is not seated properly as you can see it should be sitting right over here same as we found on the right side and if you think i'm wrong i'm not you can even look up in the repair manual and it's going to give you a special tool to line up the spring right over here same goes for the e39 i think only e38 is the one where the spring goes all the way in but on these particular cars you have to install it right over there otherwise you can have weird ride height issues come to think of it now the front left side always looked a bit higher than the right one there was a bigger gap and now i know why i'm actually going to show you the picture from the repair manual and you can see how they line up the spring with the special tool and that it's sitting before this dip in the bottom spring purge so that's how it's supposed to go right over there and not there so for this particular shock i'm just going to use this old spring pad from the from the right one put it over there on the bilstein one and that's how i'm going to install it properly i want to show you another difference between the original zox unit and bilstein this is the dust boot on the original shock and as you can see it's just flopping around all over the place and it's not sealing all the way on the bottom and that's the crucial point because that's where the dust goes in and dirt and all the stuff and wears out the shock prematurely while on bilstein you have this lovely blue dust boot and it's completely clipped in on the bottom and the top so it doesn't come out no matter what the shock does moves left right up and down it's not going to come off and it's going to stop dust from going right over there and wearing out that seal so this shock is going to last longer as well so that's brilliant design compared to this remember this is a car that can do 330 kilometers per hour or 205 miles per hour and as such you should treat it like an airplane and torque every single ball to spec especially the ones in the suspension so with that i'm gonna put the wheels back on lower it onto the ground drive it back and forth and then we're going to do the final torque for the bushings [Music] so the torque for the lower control arm bushing and thrust arm bushing is 100 meters and then 90 degree angle plus minus 15 so we're going to torque it with the torque wrench first and then give it a good twist with the breaker bar that's good and now the rear shocks to access the top nuts we need to remove these liners here and that's actually much more easier compared to e39 where you have to remove the complete rear seat the parser shelf and all that stuff so i like that there's foam here and i can see the connector i can unplug that there you can see the top mount and this took 20 seconds to access it loving that good that's all three removed do i do the other side while i'm in here excellent this right here is a clear indication that this shock is bad when you see dirt stuck to it like this that means it leaked out a while back and then as you drive you have oil on the shock all of that dirt and grime just collects over here and well it's stuck to the shock so this is completely kaput and it's about to come out so the repair manual says that in order to remove this shock out of the car we need to unbolt the sway bar link and then just unbolt the shock and then supposedly we can wiggle it out this way and then take it out of the car not so sure that's going to work because on e39 and e38 i know that this control arm here needs to come out in order to take the shock out so let's see let's see if the repair manual is right line bmw lies you cannot do that oh i see maybe we need to remove the entire the freaking sway bar link let's try now nah man i've been fed lies so i'm gonna bolt the ball joint and see if i can just swivel it upwards i think that should be enough to get it out there you go come on there it is all right it's out so i bolted the ball joint on the control arm pushed it out a little bit and that gave me enough space to wiggle out the shock but i think for the new one i'm going to remove this control arm because i don't want to scratch the new shark it's going to be easier to put it in so i'm going to do this on the ground because there's still a little bit of tension here in case this flies off it's better it flies off into the distance than into me oh okay that's good ah it's not unattention it's just stuck here but better to be safe i need the cup this shock is very light so let's see does it bounce back that's 101 shot there was nothing there so yeah when you see this replace the shock and i did 330 kilometers with this shock ain't that something just confirming that the position of the spring perch is the same as it is on the original one and it is so brand new spring pads that goes in and then we have diagram here and the rear ones appear to be using a bump stop thankfully i did buy it so the big cup the mount another cup and then the nut now nice good and tight and here you gotta make sure that the spring is sitting perfectly flush in the pad here and on the top as well so nice this is one durable plastic you gotta say so i'm gonna try to get this in without removing the control arm after all maybe we can do it okay easy i think i can put carbon fiber towel there yes it's in and i didn't scratch it lovely okay this is easier than on e39 i need 38. bravo bmw bravo is that it no way i got it in okay so i'm using my lamp to hold the shock in place and now we're going to go up top and do the nuts just finger tight and this bolt is torqued with the car on the ground that's what the repair manual says put the foam thing in there so that's all nice and done connector connected the car is back under its own weight i draw it back and forth and now we can torque the shock bolts and that concludes rear shock replacement so to sum up both rear shocks are bad as you can see i compressed them last night and they still didn't bounce back the front ones are bad as well but two things baffle me here the front shocks they have a bill date from november 2006 the car was built in december 2006 so most likely original units to the car but then we had incorrectly installed spring on the left side and i can't explain that what what happened maybe the spring snapped at one point and they replaced it and didn't install it properly production line air highly unlikely all of this comes pre-packed and they just bolt it in but it's possible then the second thing is this plastic thingy this looks like it's part of packaging protection for the shock something that would go here so there's no way ended up there by accident someone left it there so two errors that i can't really explain and then on top of that all of this is bad and i did 330 kilometers per hour in this car and the funny thing is it still felt stable and whenever i was pressing the edc button i could feel the right change so this car it's very very well engineered and i imagine now with new shocks it's going to handle like a bullet train anyway let's move on we'll go for a test drive shortly but now we gotta address the smaller things so that mirror over there is not folding properly let me show you so it goes in actually nicely but when you unfold it it doesn't stop where it's supposed to stop it does that and that's rather inconvenient when you're using the car and driving it so you have to come out of the car and then reposition it with your hands it's kind of annoying we need to fix that so i'm not so sure what the problem is but i was reading up online and this seems to be a common problem on d90 as well and apparently there's some pin in the mechanism that's stuck so you have to lube it up and that solves the issue so first we have to take off the mirror and then fiddle with it so apparently you don't need to remove the door panel to remove the mirror we just need to pull this cover off here wowza look at that i gotta say working on this car there's so many things that are improved over e39 especially when working on it this is super convenient you just need to remove this and then get to the bolts on the e39 you have to remove the entire door panel and e38 as well well actually we need to disconnect the cable don't we can we get to the connection though oh yeah that's the connector disconnected also rather easy wow super easy did you know that objects in the mirror are closer than they appear what will we ever do without american safety regulations so d39 has like a small latch here but this one doesn't there's a cable that we need to disconnect mirror removed now four torx bolts i think now this comes off four more screws now this back part can come apart it's another plug here now we need to remove this locking washer so we can get to the gears a little mortar and that stupid pin but first i'm going to clean it you can use a marker so you know where to put that lock washer i think carefully going to pry it up with a screwdriver the key is also not to break this stupid thing finally no clue how i'm going to put that back and i would like to point out that i did find videos online where people just spray wd-40 or something in it and try to loosen it up but that to me just seems like a temporary solution and i don't want to be back in here anytime soon if i'm able to fix it hello gears so here you can see the gearing all of that looks good and this is the pin that's stuck i believe this should move freely but it doesn't so let's see if we can take it out nice is there something in the bottom as well this looks like a little spring that's what we need to clean this pin and then that hole lubricated with something and then just reassemble it all right so i needed something stronger to clean it and throttle cleaner did the job beautifully so i'm going to blow this out with the compressor and then we're going to start lubricating stuff so we're going to use silicone grease as well put the spring back in now lube up the pin all this pin does is telling the motor where to stop so when it's stuck inside like that it can't stop the motor obviously so it's turning this thing all the way up to its limit and that's why you get that weird folding thing but when this is working properly it stops it in the right place so that should be that now we can reassemble it so the difficult part here is going to be compressing that spring and putting back the lock washer all right that's in so now you're going to give it a few gentle love taps the stupid circlip is back on i just used needle nose pliers to get it started and then slowly tapped it into place now we can reassemble the rest of it maybe i shouldn't put all this back together before i test it but i don't know i feel like putting everything back together okay before we go any further it's time to test it to be a punk connector plugged back in perfect perfection i'm gonna do it a couple of more times just to make sure every time perfect so overall pretty easy fix and with that we can move on to something else you have no idea how much i wish this car didn't have a sunroof this car has a stupid sunroof and you're gonna be surprised by this but i don't like them i think i said that few million times in the past and i'm gonna explain again why they add weight they give you less headroom they break all the time they leak all the time they create wind noise and in my particular case i never use them and in general i just prefer the slicked up look of the car when there's no sunroof and this is one nice big piece of metal but that's just my preference the sunroof on this car is working fine it's not broken yet it's not leaking but there is one big annoyance with it and that is wind noise when i'm driving on the autobahn really annoying and there's actually a service bulletin for the e60 that says if you have that issue you should replace this rubber seal that goes around it and that's gonna get rid of the wind noise so let's do that first open the damn thing shut up all right you so before we start removing the old seal we need to mark where the two ends meet way too much tape like that and now peel the onion oh that's gonna be fun to remove all the residual foam plastic scraper bastard it's full of water already hating this ah it's spring water everywhere using my socks yes and it's off now we got to scrape off the old foam and glue so slowly with the plastic scraper in about three days you'll be done [Music] i finished scraping off the old foam now we gotta use goo gone see if i can clean it up all the way it's sort of working but i still need to scrape let's try acetone yep that's working better it took absolutely ages and i hated every second of it but it's finally clean the ticket was plastic scraper acetone and carbon fiber towels and now it's cleaner than my sole now i'm going to break out the vacuum cleaner vacuum up all of the residual stuff and then we can start laying down the new seal [Music] okay final wipe with alcohol so here's the new seal hello this is brilliant yep and now we gotta cut the cord so now i'm gonna go around and press it firmly and then we're gonna close the sunroof put pressure on this as well i hate zones so i'm gonna try and level out the sunroof it's a bit low in the front and there are two screws here and there that you can loosen then lift it up and then tighten them again so you gotta hold it up with your hand and then tighten the screw so lift it up with one hand tighten with the other that's it easy as that nice and flush and with this hateful job done as well i'm gonna go home but first i'm gonna vacuum up the interior get some dinner get some rest and then tomorrow morning we're gonna hit the road time to find out how the suspension feels i actually can't wait see you manana good morning and let's go cut our set the tire pressure thing i think the sensor is actually fine the tires were low reset yes i forgot to change this to celsius the sun is in my way got my cup of james here all right first we're gonna hit frankfort's smoothest roads just to make sure everything is okay how the car feels and then i'm gonna take it in for wheel alignment and then we're gonna hit the autobahn by the way just driving in the yard and here i can already feel the difference the car feels so much firmer to be fair i do need to put some kilometers on the shocks before i can judge them properly but let's just see how it feels for the beginning there's that sound so we're in the softest setting middle one and the firmest oh yeah look at that whoo the camera is going to fall off back to comfort all right hold on to your devices we're about to hit cobblestone road welcome to the 19th century ah it doesn't feel bad it's taking bumps nicely so if i do this is the sport setting the middle one and the firmest one yeah you can just i think you can tell on the camera as well that everything is just so stiff now whoa so back to comfort smooth driving all right ddc is still working which is brilliant so i'm gonna make another circle and then we're gonna go to the shop i still didn't find a good alignment shop in frankfurt the one that i'm using now is okay the only reason i'm using them is because i can get appointment immediately uh are you already on reserve we need to get fuel as well so first impressions a bit firmer than before but really nice not harsh in any way just firmer and tighter but it's not a fair comparison because those original shocks they were completely blown the best comparison that you can do is well take two cars one with brand new original suspension and one with brand new bilstein shocks actually put two or three thousand kilometers on both cars for everything to settle in break in and then compare them and give impressions so this is a fairly bad road and the car handles quite nicely it's not uncomfortable look at this road driving on the moon but not so bad with biller style suspension and it's bilstein not bilstein bilstein bilstein ah the interior of this car is so beautiful alignment done look at that 2002. oh you didn't see me give him a thumbs up hit the m mode which is going to put the edc in the middle setting it's incredible how it pulls i love this car i love it so much you know if you are one of those people who say e60 m5 is unreliable garbage you have no idea how much you're missing out what a machine this is so we're driving now on a normal road it's pretty comfortable even in the in the sport setting i think out of all of my cars if i had to pick one to drive across to europe this would be it it has the power it has the comfort it has the sound it has everything i do love my e39 m5 more than this but man what a special car this is [Music] i mean even cruising in the city when you can hear that sound at two three four thousand rpm it's it just makes you smile every single time just makes you happy to be alive and driving a v10 6-speed manual glorious machine so so far the car definitely feels more tighter there was something missing before but now it's just it's complete it just goes this car like nothing yeah the suspension feel is fantastic absolutely bang on all right that's enough scientific research for one day time to head back to the dojo kind of don't want to go back i just want to keep on driving because this is one of those cars that you just want to sit in and drive you don't need a destination just drive and enjoy it for what it is quite happy with bilstein b6 suspension but i'm going to have to give you a proper impression in about two or three thousand kilometers the ride height it's unchanged from before maybe a tiny bit higher in the front than before but that's normal when you replace worn out struts so it's gonna take some time for that to settle the car is comfortable which is really important to me i don't want to drive like this all the time even though this is a sporty machine but when i'm driving on the autobahn i can always press the button and it's going to be firm and come summertime we'll take it to the nurburgring we also take it to dyno see what kind of power this thing is making that should be a fun video bilstein b6 it's what this car needed to make it the real supercar that it is and it is a four-door supercar i don't know if you can tell but it's snowing anyway i just went through a car wash with the car and it cleaned up rather nicely this is its good side minus a little bit of pinkness in the corner over there but this car came to me completely neglected and broken and look at it now fully and then some mechanically sorted with an entire service of the engine including rod bearings now entire suspension and million other things in between the interior is stunning doesn't need anything else in there and leave the wood trim alone i'm not going to replace it with carbon stupid fiber i'd rather set it on fire than do that i love the wood trim i haven't showed you this side of the car in this video but if you watch previous videos you'll see that this car is between 56 and 57 shades of grey the two doors on this side are completely mismatched like you can see it from the airplane the front bumper is different color two sort of biggish dents on the bumper here this needs to be repainted as well and there's just millions scratches and dents all over the place so initially i was thinking let's do a full respa let's make it absolutely perfect but the more i think about it let's not make it absolutely perfect if i do that then i'm gonna be scared of using it i'm gonna be scared if i'm gonna get a scratch dent chip this or that so what i'm thinking now repaint the two doors on this side make everything one color repaint the front bumper the rear bumper do pdr get the pdr guy remove all of the dents and then just polish the rest of the car and it's going to look about 90 95 perfect which is well perfect for this car for its age and for the mileage so we're gonna do that at one point not soon though because it's not important and i do consider this project to be finished i mean as soon as the car is registered it has valid tooth technical inspection the project is finished anything you do beyond that is improving it and doing more service on it i do hope that you enjoyed this video if you did maybe give it a thumbs up perhaps even subscribe that would be really nice and as always thank you very much for watching and i'll see you very soon the next video is going to be on the e32 it's time to go home and the snow just stopped snowing you're on youtube now adios [Music] you

Channel: M539 Restorations

Views: 1,753,882

Keywords: e31, bmw, 850i, 850ci, restoration, revival, barn find, e39, e38, m5, 740i, 840i, 840ci, 850csi, csi, 8er, 8 series, classic cars, bimmer, 540i, v12, 535i, 750il, 750, e46, m3, m70, road trip, m73, budget, cheap, first start, car project, b7, b8, alpina, restore it, e34, e32, e24, hoovie's garage, hoovie, tavarish, doug demuro, vin wiki, vice grip garage, car throttle, samcrac, e60, s85, v10, challenge, m54, 3er, 325i, chrisfix, detailing, disaster interior, detailing geek, top gear, edd china, cartrek

Id: zK8bIT94LKM

Length: 67min 39sec (4059 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 22 2022