BULLETPROOF Shoulder Armor! (Part 1)

if you've been a fan of this channel for a while you know that I teach people how to make metal armor with ordinary tools at home one of the questions I get most often is is it bulletproof that answer has always been no until now [Music] now I could have used anything to make this part but since I am a metal worker I chose metal just because I understand it a little bit better than fiberglass and other other materials so this is how I start all of my shoulder armor or helmet armor projects this is 20 gauge steel that I'm working with and I'm just stretching it out in the center on the dishing stump and it's actually shrinking it on the edges as well so what you see me making in this video is not the actual armor that will be the end result this is just to make the molds this video is focused on making the molds to make bulletproof armor not the actual armor itself that's for the next video this is the English wheel I'm using to planus the surface and get it nice and flat it also makes it very uniform and hemispherical and it makes it look shiny and with very little work it looks pretty nice a little bit more work to go but it looks pretty good there now I had previously made a sort of 3d sketch with a piece of foam here just to get the idea for the shape and size and I'm just going to cut this out to get the shape that I want just ordinary snips won't cut this just fine the edges will take a little bit of work but it will be pretty easy to do I'm fitting it to myself here and it's roughly the right size I want it to be a bit oversized because it's going to be about five eighths inches thick for those of you outside the US that's about twenty-one trillion trillion atoms thick and I have a piece of exhaust pipe here and I'm just bending it very slowly to avoid kinks you've seen me do this in my traditional armoring videos and a rawhide mallet helps to bend the edges a little bit easier the edges are a bit stubborn because you can't get enough leverage on them compared to the center of a part like this but the rawhide mallet makes it very easy to bend now this is the health guard this is at the top of this part and it needs to be bent to fit the part so a couple of passes over top of the exhaust pipe and it gets pretty close it doesn't have to be perfect because I'm just going to weld it on there and then do bodywork after so as long as it's closed so it'll work just fine and here I've got the two main parts put together and taped together as you can see in here I've got a couple of risers here to weld to and I'm just going to weld those parts quickly now all the parts are welded the main parts are welded on and I'm going to add these little gussets or buttresses to the health guard to add some strength at the top then here's the general shape complete looks pretty good needs a lot of body work though so we're gonna start by using some fiberglass body filler and I'm just going to mix this stuff up and put it in all of the big crevasses and sands it all down until you get a nice smooth surface and all the transitions between the parts look good now to dress it up I added these little plastic pieces I cut out and shaped and glued them on now I expected them to get lost in the mold but I will go over that a little bit later in the video here and here is the finished part this part is made of two by fours which I have screwed together and the top of it is covered with aluminum tape and I'm going to fit some clay plasticine clay inside here now this clay is the kind that does not harden and I'm just going to complete making this part with the plasticine and here it is complete and ready for molding well almost before we do that we have to put some part all number ten and this is a water-based spray and it actually creates a plastic a very thin plastic film layer in between the part and the fiberglass that will come so this is tooling gel coat high-temperature tooling gel coat and I'm just mixing it up it has a hardener you mix it up and then brush it on to the part getting all the details I did two layers of this and this is just popping the bubbles that I can see just to make it as perfect as I can although it doesn't really matter because the the nature of this build is a little bit imperfect in the end so it doesn't really make a difference here I'm mixing up epoxy resin this stuff is not like the stuff you buy from Walmart this takes quite a long time to cure it remains liquid for probably a little over an hour so it gives you some working time as opposed to the cheap stuff from Walmart which is hardening in about 15 minutes here I'm just laying down a couple of pieces of fiberglass cloth to get the shape and getting the bubbles out to air bubbles out and then on top of that I'm putting on some fiberglass mat I don't know how many layers I did but it's fairly thick so I did a lot of this and here's the complete mold before I cleaned it up and and cut all the edges now I'm taking it apart and these rods here these all thread rods will make sure that everything aligns perfectly later on Here I am pulling it free of the mold and this actually worked out pretty well I knew that the little details would be lost inside of this thing but I glued them on instead of something more permanent so that I could just pull them out later without having any real issues now part comes free and the mold is complete I just have to clean it up as you can see those parts came off as expected and this is that thin film I was telling you about it also comes off really well with water just plain water I'm just getting all the little plastic parts out a little bit of cleanup and this part looks pretty close to perfect I was pretty impressed with it now another layer several layers of partl down and then I am adding the tooling gel coat to the back of this now I did not use wax and that is a problem that some of my fans on Facebook the Facebook page have reminded me of and this causes problem later on this is some thicker fiberglass cloth that I had I ran out of the thin stuff but the inside mold does not have to have all these details in it it's just there to sort of mimic the shape of the front mold top mold same thing though several layers of fiberglass cloth and then several layers of fiberglass mat the mat has to be done in smaller pieces because you can't get it to bend around the surfaces as well as a piece of cloth does but this worked out just fine for the mold I needed [Music] rolled air bubbles out as best as I can and let this cure now I lost the footage of me pulling this apart but as you can see it's stuck in the mold and pulled it pulled the pieces apart some of the gel coat came free so I have to repair these parts which I'm not looking forward to but this is not my medium I definitely made some mistakes here and I will have to repair this so but this this mold will will it should work just fine as you can see this is the setup how how I'll have it I will lay up the fiberglass and carbon fiber inside of these molds about 40 layers of it and then compress them together and it should make a nice bulletproof part so I decided to break this into several parts this is the mold video and the next video I will actually make the part to show you guys [Music] be sure to see my full length narrated tutorials where I show you how to make real armor with ordinary tools be sure to subscribe and click that bell so you get all notifications when I put out new videos and if you want to see all the behind the scenes stuff find me on Facebook and Instagram at the links you see on your screen and while you're here check out some of these other videos I've got [Music]

Channel: David Guyton

Views: 126,872

Keywords: bulletproof, bulletproof armor, ballistic armor, shoulder armor, fiberglass molds, fiberglass armor, carbon fiber armor

Id: OiSssBae2-I

Length: 10min 38sec (638 seconds)

Published: Sun May 10 2020