Building the ULTIMATE Waterfall [Realistic Scenery Vol.11]

a all and welcome back to the long-awaited waterfall tutorial modeling rivers and especially waterfalls can often be very intimidating to even a seasoned modeler however with some careful planning and good reference photos making a waterfall that looks very realistic is easier than it looks so let's not waste any more time and get started building this fantastic waterfall as with all these dioramas I start with the base for this I'm using some 8 millimeter by 40 millimeter pine to frame the edges of the phone that I'll be using as the main base material overall the diorama is cut to be a total of 60 centimeters long by 40 centimeters wide including the frame it's important to use foam for the base because later I'll be using some tools from the hot wire foam Factory to cut into the base and form the river this particular foam is called extruded polystyrene and once scored it snaps away very easily on previous models I screw the frame together however the polyurethane glue I use is very strong and I've found that simply using the glue alone and clamping the frame to the foam as the glue sets is more than enough strength to hold the base together [Music] I also weigh the foamboard down to prevent it moving as the glue expands and sets to build up the landforms I've decided to use expanded polystyrene it's slightly cheaper than the extruded polystyrene and the hot wire foam tools are able to cut through it more easily and faster however it's much softer and more flexible which is why I don't use it for the base layer this stuff can also get messy with tiny little foam balls floating around all over the place if it's not cut with the hot wire tools or a sharp knife at least using an image as a reference i roughly design the shape of the falls on some paper and then transfer that shape onto the first layer of foam now this is where the hot wire foam factory tools come in very useful the hot knife is used to carefully cut along the line creating the first layer this layer is then traced onto additional layers to gradually build up the landform because I'm now cutting thicker foam I again use the hot knife tool but I also use the sled tool to get a perfect right angle cut along the desired line just remember to use these tools in a well-ventilated area due to the fumes created adding these layers to the base is simply a matter of gluing them together I'll make sure to roughen up the surface first on the base layer to give it a little more tooth ensuring that the glue holds tightly I specifically use styro guru from the hot wire foam factory because once it has set the glue can be cut with the hot wire tools [Music] most of the rocks are used on this diorama I made using woodland Scenic's rock moulds and a couple of my homemade rock malts that you can see in realistic scenery of volume 9 making a goldmine before pouring in the plaster of Paris I lightly pre-wet the molds with some water that has a couple of drops of dish soap this helps the plus to get into all the little nooks inside the mold I also only half fill some of the molds to get rocks with different levels of relief having a range of large small and flat rocks will be very useful I'll make sure to make more that I need so that I have some spares for testing on later now that the main diorama is dry I can start forming the basic shape for this I make sure to use reference images so that I can get it looking realistic and again the hot wire tools are used this time I'll be using my favorite tool which is the hot wire routing tool you can bend the wire to the desired shape and start carving which is extremely useful especially for projects like this on this particular model I wanted there to be a decent overhang so I cut into the wall to create an open cave also don't be afraid to make changes to your design as an example I decided to change the small stream on the side to include a number of smaller waterfalls which was simply done by cutting away the foam as necessary that's the benefit of working with foam it's very versatile due to the extruded polystyrene being more dense it takes a little longer for the hot wire foam cutter to cut through it the edges where the river meets the wooden frame are sanded to match the riverbanks using a sanding drum on the Dremel to get the rocks to follow the contour of the waterfall you will need to carve and snap them appropriately once they roughly follow the desired contour I use a hot glue gun to attach them to the foam this process is repeated right along the face of the waterfall and anywhere else that rocks will be attached to the scenery using a combination of my homemade rocks and the woodland Scenic's rocks all the gaps between the rocks are filled in with more plaster of Paris just make sure to thoroughly pre-wet the rocks prior to applying the plaster filler so that it bonds correctly between the rocks it can be a little time-consuming but don't worry about being too tidy [Music] once the plaster has started to harden after about 30 minutes I come back with a small pick and make some small chips in the plaster filler I try to get it to match up with the existing rock that surrounds it some rocks like these ones at the very top of the waterfall are hand carved to match the rocks below as the project progresses I made small adjustments to specific areas like the river width and depth I continue to make these small adjustments as the project progresses to make sure I get the final look that I'm after and sometimes what looks great in the beginning doesn't look as good later down the track which is why I'm making changes as it progresses the mainland form is made using sculptor mold however I first use some packing paper and tape to fill in the negative spaces which helps avoid using excessive amounts of sculptor mold sculptor mold is a very versatile product he gets mixed to a thick consistency and simply slapped onto the phone wetting the area with water first helps the sculptor mold stick better to the foam [Music] using a popsicle stick or your fingers is all that's needed to smooth out the area and I just keep building it up until I am happy with the shape as the sculptor mold starts to set after about 15 minutes it gradually gets easier to smooth out which is great because you have the option of not smoothing it out much resulting in a rough terrain look or you can keep working it and smoothing it to get a nice flat terrain for roads and paths again don't be afraid to make changes to the overall look of a scene as you progress there were a few changes that I made along the way even after adding the sculptor mold like this waterfall and you'll later see that I added some rock walls along the bank of the river below the waterfall as well once the sculptor mold has started to set if there are any further changes you want to make you'll need something like a dremel rotary tool to help carve through the plaster with the main landforms built up I now focus on the riverbed the sculptor mold is applied in the same fashion however I make sure to really work it in as it starts to set so that I get a very nice smooth surface in preparation for pouring the resin I cover up all the exposed foam areas and it's only a very thin layer of sculptor mold this is where I made some changes to the bank and out of the rock wall I mentioned to earlier now that all of the plaster has dried I tidy up any excess that is hanging over the edges with a sharp knife now is a good time to design and fit the walkway it's not a perfect curve around the rock face so with a bit of trial and error I cut a piece of paper until it fits nicely around the face next I draw the walkway on to the paper following the curve I'm using a small hecho scale figure so that I can get the scale of the walkway to look good once it's finished once happy with the design I cut it out and start to prepare measure and cut the scale lumber I'll be using preparation involves running the strips of wood through some steel wall to remove the small father's & fuzz from the strips all of the strip what I'm cutting is cut with the micro mark chop it this is another extremely useful tool that I use all of the time if you're interested in purchasing this tool as well as the hot wire foam tools are used in this video be sure to check out micro mark calm and don't forget to use the promo code Boulder to get 10% off your total at the checkout then each piece is stained with a wash to get an old weathered wood appearance the wash I'm using is a mixture of one part ten six parts black and roughly 40 parts isopropyl alcohol however these ratios are a rough estimate I strongly suggest doing some tests with spare pieces of strip board and make adjustments to the ratio until you get the desired color additionally when you stay in the wood try to avoid having pools of the stain solution sitting on top of the wood as it dries otherwise you may have very dark spots appearing on the wood I simply use a paper towel and dab it over the wood to remove the excess stain to assemble the walkway I stick the template to a scrap piece of MDF wood and then I spray the template with just a very light coat of spray adhesive each component is carefully positioned onto the template and glued with Helmer super tacky adhesive which I've been very reliable for wooden structures the process of assembling can be tedious but the time and effort will certainly be worth it in the end when I get to a corner I cut a strip into a wedge shape and continue laying planks around the corner the rest of the walkway detail is prepared cut and stained using the same way and carefully attached with tacky glue removal is simply a matter of using a scraper to detach the template from the MDF and then peel away the template from the walkway this is why I only use a very small amount of spray adhesive on the template a quick check shows that the walkway fits nicely against the rock wall to color their plaster rocks I use a two-step process which ended up turning into a four-step process a basalt gray wash was made using Vallejo paint and water before applying the wash to the actual rock face I make sure to use one of the extra molds to test the strength of the wash and I add either water or more paint depending if I want to lighten or darken the wash when it was time to paint the rocks I applied a light misting of water first to help the wash soak into these small cracks and it's just a matter of painting the wash over the entire surface [Music] what's all the rocky areas were covered I applied some Vallejo stone great using the airbrush the paint needs to be thinned quite a lot in order to get it to flow cleanly through the airbrush it gets applied in a mostly top-down fashion resulting in the top surface having a lighter color than the bottom surface after this layer was applied I wasn't quite happy with the color it was too light so to fix it I went back over the surface with the airbrush however this time I used the original wash color basalt gray it was generally applied all over the area until I had the darkness I was after and then once a game with a light misting of the stone gray was applied over the top in a top-down fashion again the base coat I use over the terrain is an earthy brown color called fawn it slightly diluted with water and liberally apply it over the entire diorama while avoiding the rock faces [Music] the small boulders at the base of the falls are created with some air drying clay a small amount is pressed and formed into a rock shape typical of what might be found around rivers once the clay has started to harden I drag a small wire brush over it to remove imperfections and fingerprints they get colored closely to match the rock wall by initially painting them with basalt gray next once the basalt gray has had time to dry I airbrush from stone gray over the top in a top-down fashion and finally I lightly mist the rocks with a grey spray paint while holding the paint at a distance this results in the paint partially drying before sticking to the rocks and it leaves a speckled appearance to place the rocks they get a small drop of tacky glue applied to the base and they are then placed into position on the diorama and left to dry around the base of each rock cluster I paint some additional gray to indicate depth below the rocks that's all grey with a few drops of white and a drop of stone gray is used additional small rocks are made using plaster that has been broken up and soaked in basalt gray wash similar to the wash that was applied to the main rock face you may need more than one application of stone gray wash to get the desired color to dry them they get spread out on a paper towel and teased back and forth to prevent them from sticking to each other for about two to three minutes or until the excess wash has been removed to paint the riverbed I use our mixture of blue green and gray to get a murky blue tone that gives the an illusion of depth it's about a 50/50 mix of blue and green with a few drops of gray to add some warmth he gets painted onto the riverbed roughly following the deeper sections of the river I'm not too worried about getting the very edges of the river perfect just yet as there we blend it in with some 10 earth using the airbrush because the paint is thinned down quite a lot you'll probably need to apply multiple coats until the edges are blended seamlessly whilst doing your best to avoid getting too much overspray onto the surrounding areas some Vallejo light rays used to blend the areas around the rocks it's unavoidable that there will be some overspray on the riverbed so I quickly touch-up the base with some more of the river color I mixed earlier using the airbrush the small plaster rocks can now be carefully sprinkled around the larger boulders and around the base of the large rock face I'm using some tweezers with silicon tips to avoid scratching the nicely painted riverbed and to help get the small rocks in and around the bigger boulders to lock them into position I use an eyedropper and apply a small amount of diluted Mod Podge this is my scenic glue mixture it made using one part Mod Podge and three parts water to add ground texture I'll be trying a slightly different technique from what you've seen in previous tutorials it starts with the application of some Mod Podge matte lightly diluted with water this mixture gets applied using a paintbrush over all of the areas where you want the dirt applied just be sure to avoid getting glued directly on any of the rock faces I also avoid having clean lines along the edges for example along the edge of the riverbed I stipple the glue so when the dirt is applied here it has a random rough shaped edge the dirt texture I use is a 50/50 mixture of dried sifted dirt from the backyard and some beige tile grout a fine grade grout that is unscented works best this helps lighten the dirt because when additional scenery and glue are added the dirt darkens quite a lot the dirt is then applied three stocking over all the areas where the glue is being painted the glue tends to dry quite quickly so I work in small sections at a time and don't worry about getting dirt over the riverbed and rock phases as this will be removed later [Music] what I usually did in previous tutorials was to apply scenic glue over the entire area to seal the dirt however for this diorama I've decided to vacuum up all of the excess dirt and skipped the step of applying these scenic glue I found the initial layer of glue was enough to hold the dirt in place and more glue will be added later down the track when I start to apply the scenery which will further seal this layer in place I'll make sure to remove all the dirt and dust from the riverbed you may find using a soft paintbrush helps to get all the fine powder that the vacuum struggles to get the dirt layer is further blended with the riverbed using some more tan earth and the airbrush I do my best to avoid directing any overspray onto the darker areas of the riverbed each of the waterfalls needs to be dammed to prevent the envirotec resin from flowing over it later to create these dams I simply used some woodland Scenic's water effects which is a thick acrylic paste that dries clear a bead of this product is applied right along the edge of the falls and I use a paint brush to blend the edges in with the ground which avoids any obvious harsh lines to form the dams for the edge of the diorama I used a tried-and-true method which hasn't failed me yet all you need is some regular wood glue and a strip of masking tape the tape is cut to the desired width and pressed up against the end of the riverbed I press down quite firmly to ensure good adhesion any excess tape can be trimmed with our hobby knife next a small amount of wood glue is painted around the edges of the tape make sure the glue creates a seal between the tape and the diorama and then it's left to dry for a few hours now that everything is dry we can start on the exciting part adding the water because the river is quite deep I'll be using in biotechs light it handles deep pores much better than anything else I've used so far when pouring resin especially for dioramas like this it's important to be on a level flat surface using a tool like the micro mark digital level makes finding a flat table piece of cake all you need to do is turn it on and place it on the table you'll know straight away of the tables level or not working within biotechs is very easy but be sure to go through the instructions to really understand what will and won't work for example you'll need a flat stick to improve steering and scraping the mixture from the bottom of the container the ratio is a 50-50 mix between resin and hardener it will need to be thoroughly mixed for a few minutes to make sure it cures properly with no soft or tacky spots the colors are used to tint resin are blue and burnt umber they get added very sparingly a little bit at a time until I reach the desired opacity and color the pigments are very strong and you can always add more if needed but if you add too much it can't be reversed now we're ready to pour the resin the resin does a good job of finding its own level so I start in the middle and gradually work my way up and down the river to speed things up you can use a skewer to help push the resin into these small tight spots after about five minutes most of the bubbles will have risen to the top to remove them from the surface you can exhale on the surface and they will pop stubborn bubbles may need to be teased up with a skewer to remove them now it's left to dry overnight with everything set up we can remove the tape from the ends of the diorama the resin has a tendency to creep which is evident along the edges of the riverbank and also along the tape the raised edges along the tape can be trimmed quite easily with a sharp hobby knife any bubbles that were overlooked will be masked later on when we start adding the rough whitewater and Rickles now we can start adding some greenery the first layer is static a grass I use a range of grasses and for this I'm starting with some late fall six millimeter grass the glue tends to dry quite fast so I get ready by filling the static grass applicator first before applying the glue additionally I also add a small amount of water to the Mod Podge mat to help slow down the drying time I work in small areas at a time and while the glue is still wet I start applying the static grass today grass makes a huge difference to the realism of a model and if you don't already use a static grass applicator I highly recommend getting one [Music] the grass alone often looks too uniform so to help break up the carpet like appearance I'd tease certain areas of the grass to rough it up a little bit also on hillsides the grass will point out at a ninety degree angle from the surface so gently brushing the grass upwards helps to get a much more realistic result on hillsides excess grass is easily removed by turning the diorama upside down and shaking away the excess however if turning the model over is not an option you can use a vacuum to remove the grass and by using a stocking over the end of the vacuum we can catch the excess and use it later I also blend in some small areas of 2 millimeter grass to further blend the different areas of static grass a large variety of ground cover is used to add details like rocks leaves and weeds one of my favorite materials to use is actual leaves I just find a bunch of dried leaves out in the garden and put them through the blender after a minute I sift them to a fine grade and then apply it to my scenery getting ground material to stick onto Hills can be a problem so I add some glue to ensure the material sticks and doesn't just slide down and pile up at the bottom in addition to the dried leaves I also use a fine brown sand some coarser grades sand for larger stones the grout and dirt mixture from earlier and plenty of woodland Scenic's ground foam I particularly like the coarse turf bent grass color and I further blend that in with fine turf coarse grass color as well before anything gets sealed with glue I need to remove excess material from the river just be careful if you use a vacuum to avoid removing material from areas other than the riverbed difficult to reach areas can be cleared with a paintbrush the scenic glue I'm using is a mixture of one part Mod Podge matte and three parts water with a few drops of dish detergent it's a two-step process step one is a thorough misting over the area with isopropyl alcohol and then step two is simply spraying the entire area with the glue mixture through a fine mist spray bottle [Music] once finished any excess is removed from the river surface with a paper towel and either water or isopropyl alcohol keep soaking the area and wiping the glue away until the glue has been completely removed any spots mist can be cleaned later however we want to get as much as possible now while it's still wet now we just leave the model to dry areas that were mr. cleaned with a q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol and wiped clean with a paper towel now for the waterfall I start by measuring the height and width of each section of the waterfall and i roughly transfer those dimensions onto a piece of paper the paper is then placed underneath a piece of glass to form the waterfall I used the woodland Scenic's water effects again it gets applied onto the glass following the templates we drew earlier using my fingers I gently spread the water effects and create a pattern that somewhat resembles water falling down I want it to be quite thin so that I can build it up in layers as I make the waterfall and it also dries much quicker just avoid making it too thin because it will fall apart when trying to build up the waterfall and peel it off the glass later about one millimeter thick works well with slightly thicker areas and thinner areas as the water progresses downwards from the top I make sure that I make more than I need and include a wide variety of shapes and lengths so our waterfall has a more dynamic feel once it's finished then it gets left to dry for a few hours or until all of the acrylic is completely clear each piece gets dry brushed with some white Vallejo acrylic paint using a stiff bristled flat brush works great for dry brushing only a very small amount of paint on the brush is needed and it slowly dragged over the sections of waterfall highlighting the raised surfaces this stuff loves sticking to glass and plastic so once it's peeled away from the glass I put them on a piece of wood just make sure they don't stick to each other because they are almost impossible to pull apart without damaging them adding the strips to the diorama is very easy simply grab the strip you want and gently stick it in place the strip stick really well to the resin river and the entire waterfall can be built up before it gets glued I use the smaller strips like this towards the edge of each section of waterfall excess parts can be trimmed away easily with some scissors the main body of the waterfall is made using the thicker pieces to give the illusion of fast moving water spilling over the edge I used a small clear plastic cup and cut some curved strips from it the curved strips are cut to size and pressed onto the back of the waterfall near the top that way when this piece is pressed into position it has a curved pattern as it spills over the edge instead of just falling straight down I always take time to stand back and look at the model from different angles to ensure I'm getting the desired result to family fix the waterfall in position I'm using some more woodland Scenic's water effects it gets applied around their top blending the strips that make up the waterfall iam with the surface of the river I do my best to make the riffles look natural [Music] more water effects is added around the base to hold the bottom of each strip as well and it's also blended in with the river surface [Music] just like in my previous River video ripples are added along the length of the river with modpodge gloss a paintbrush and the airbrush nothing is in the airbrush cup we're just using the air from the airbrush to help create the riffles before adding the Mod Podge to the surface make sure all the dust and any loose scenery material has been removed the Mod Podge is liberally coated along the surface and i roughly create the ripple effect initially using the brush I work in small sections at a time to avoid the glue drying before I've had a chance to use the airbrush next I use the airbrush to push the glare around creating the perfect ripples the airbrush has a bonus effect by removing the bubbles from the Mod Podge that were created when applying their glue with the paintbrush I continue to move along the river using this technique until the entire surface is covered and it's then left to dry to add the rough water I once more use some water effects I first apply a bead of the water effects in the desired area if you put too much on it's quite easy to remove any excess with the paintbrush next I use a flat paint brush to gently manipulate the water effects to create small waves and ripples it takes some practice to get the desired effect but don't worry because you have at least 10 to 15 minutes before it starts to dry [Music] I try to make the waves close to the waterfall larger and as we move away the ripples get smaller this applies not only to the top but also to the base of the waterfall as well once we finished this layer it will dry completely clear so if you make a mistake don't worry too much because once it's completely dry it will be much less noticeable adding the white water is our next job for this I use Vallejo white and the small flat brush I also use a large soft brush to help feather out the white areas after it's applied only a small amount of white is needed so after dipping the brush in the paint I wipe away the excess on a paper towel and sparingly apply it to the areas I want ripples and white water to be while the paint is still wet I use the larger brush to stipple around the edges of the white areas this results in a soft feathered edge and a seamless blend between the clear water and the peaks of the small waves the large brush should be slightly damp when doing this at the base of the waterfall are created larger waves and there's a lot more white water down the bottom as well [Music] there are many different ways of attaching their walkway I decided to take the easy road and simply glue it in place with the tacky glue to make placing the walkway easier I turn the diorama on its side however if this is not an option for you then you can use a piece of card and sandpaper to help hold it in position [Music] not all of the bracing underneath actually touches the wall however I'm not too concerned because from a normal viewing angle you won't be able to notice the bracing sitting out from the wall for the beams that are touching the wall I apply a small drop of glue the second last step involves adding trees tacky glue is all you need to hold them down and a small pin vise or a strong needle will create the small hole that they all sit in if you do use the pin vise to create the hole you will need to vacuum up the excess plaster so what dust doesn't surround the bottom of the tree although just be careful not to suck up any surrounding trees [Music] this large tree was made using florists wire similar to my previous wire tree to toriel video however there were just a couple of differences firstly the tree was coated in a sawdust and wood glue paste that I made to create the bark texture along the trunk and hide the twisted wires the branches remain flexible using this method secondly the outer branches that were added are CMOS tweaks from Australian modeler they are Hecky dry natural trees and do an amazing job creating the fine branch structure to make attaching the branches much easier I first apply some woodland Scenic's hobby tack adhesive to the tips of each branch once dry the Hecky tree material is pressed on and an additional drop of superglue is applied to get a strong permanent bond the foliage is attached by spraying the canopy with spray adhesive and then sprinkling some noch leaves over the top I didn't leave much of a mounting pin on the base of this tree so I used a large amount of glue to hold it in position a skewer and some tweezers were also needed to help hold it as the glue dried in addition to trees I also added some vines this is really easy to make by using small amount of woodland Scenic's poly fiber and some of the noch leaves spray the poly fiber with spray adhesive and sprinkle the leaves over the top and that's it [Music] I use some tacky glue to hold it in place and added extra leaves near the top to help blend it in alcohol and scenic glue was used to glue those leaves down but just be very careful that you don't drip alcohol on to the river as it will react with the water effects in the Mod Podge gloss causing it to go tacky and lose its shine the final bit of detail that I'll add after I quickly give the surface of the river a clean is the mist at the base of the falls what poly fiber is used I tease out very small pieces and place them around the base I want it to be very thin and wispy so we can still see through the mist I don't bother gluing this layer down I find it generally stays where I put it as long as I don't move the model around too much to frame the diorama I painted the edges black however if you wanted a more polished final result you could cover the edges with some thin MDF and paint that to get a better result and that's it that completes our waterfall now you too can take some of the tips and techniques that are used here to build your very own awesome waterfall if you want to see more photos be sure to check out Boulder Creek Railroad calm and don't forget if you'd like to help support the channel you can become a patron and get some extra perks Cheers and thanks for watching

Channel: Luke Towan

Views: 5,076,742

Keywords: Realistic scenery, realistic waterfall, model waterfall, model water, waterfall diorama, how to make a waterfall, how to model a waterfall, diorama tutorial, modeling tutorial, model waterfall tutorial, luke towan, boulder creek railroad, envirotex lite, envirotex resin, diorama projects, how to build model scenery, how to build model waterfall, model train scenery, model waterfalls and rapids, model scenery made easy, realistic model scenery, model railway scenery, scenery

Id: c1QtnvgxFKA

Length: 41min 0sec (2460 seconds)

Published: Thu Jul 05 2018

Reddit Comments

[u/lambosv21]

I've never really had an interest in miniature sets / dioramas but this guys works never cease to amaze me. The level of detail and use of materials is fascinating.

[u/flashtone]

i really wanted to not watch that whole thing and waste my afternoon.. but damnit. I now know how to do something i'll never do!

[u/CaptainCharlieDowns]

This has to be Luke's Magnum Opus, absolute cracker of a video.

The detail that goes into the walkway alone is mind-boggling.

[u/LukeTowan]

Just wanted to say a big thank you to everyone posting such positive comments, I really appreciate it and I'm glad you have enjoyed the tutorial. I thoroughly enjoy filming these videos for everyone so it gives me heaps of motivation to continue to do more videos like this knowing they are widely enjoyed by not only other model builders but lots of people who are just curios about how scenes like this can be created.
Thanks again 😃

[u/Virtualgoose]

Love his videos. Him and PLASMO have inspired me to try model making. I'm partway through a King Tiger tank, and am planning on making a landscape for it.

[u/daryldickin]

Luke is one of those people who I watch knowing that I’m probably never ever going to make anything that he’s demonstrating, but it’s so relaxing to watch and interesting to see come together. I love seeing his little DIY tools and tips, like taking regular leaves and making them into useful products.

[u/[deleted]]

Ack! SPIDER!

(12:58)

[u/throbbingrocket]

What if Luke Towan is, like, the Grand Creator or whatever and this is just him messing with us?

Like, what if he's actually molding the very building blocks of the Universe but posting it to Youtube at 1080p and just telling us it's static grass and wire and foam and stuff?

I don't know about you, but if Luke is the one, or more, God(s), I think I'd be okay with that. He seems super chill and I like his accent and the way he gets the little tiny bits of real trees and stuff to look like, y'know, normal trees and stuff is just really keen.

I like Luke.

[u/artwarrior]

The cats meow. The real Sheba. A cool Calico. All his videos are top notch.