Building the Toolitry Kit

all right good morning I'm Aaron Heiser with Maker's leather Supply and today we're going to do a build video on the tulitcher kit I know that sounds funny right so it's a tool kit but also it could be a toiletry kit so there we go right there holds an insert holds all my stamps since that will not near all my stamps but a traveling kit for my stamps if you will um the reason it has its funny name we produced a very similar pattern for Tandy for a couple of years that they had an exclusive on it they they I didn't saw it in my store even though I produced it for them for their stores anyway they've discontinued carrying that pattern it was called the toiletry kit I changed the pattern up a little bit I upgraded it updated it changed a little bit of sizing on it and um made a much much different handle for it uh long story short whole different pattern but it's still the same shape and it still can be a toiletry kit so therefore we feel I thought it would be kind of a funny play on words to call it the two literary kit okay um this was a project box for this past month we will still continue to sell the the the pattern but we will also still continue to sell the inserts for the pattern if you want to turn yours into a tool kit okay because I realized that just because we can make that fancy schmancy little tool insert there um it doesn't mean everybody else can uh have access to to get one of those made so we will continue to sell those as well as our um we're going to sell them in different sizes so you could actually have a tool set you know that sits on your desk or something um like this one clear we're not giving a choice just yet on those until I can get more supplies in that I can guarantee that I could have one color or the other and then even then it may just be that it's always one color or the other color we may not offer them both all that to say uh when you get your your project box you could receive either one but I think we had really close to enough of the black to make all of them for the project box out of that blacker color anyway um Don Gonzalez did a tooling pattern for us okay and I did a video on how to Tool the top panel okay there's one right there um the front panel and the handle are tool very similarly because they have the same kind of leaves and Scrolls and stuff like that on them um but anyway we we already did that in a separate video here's the ones that I tooled in that video uh we did a video on putting the insert piece together um and now this is the the build video to put the whole thing together okay so let's talk about what we need to make one of these we need um approximately three to four square feet of uh like a five six ounce leather um you can make it out a little bit thinner I wouldn't recommend making it at a much thicker um this one and the one we're building today are both made out of our Cowboy line uh this is the burgundy color this one was I don't remember the name of the color but I really like it a lot um this one right here is some embossed elephant that we carry that I really really like I was just trying to make them out of different Leathers to make sure that the pattern worked with different types of leather and stuff this one I even put piping on it right there along the top and the bottom real fancy schmancy real nice but piping is not necessarily on this uh this particular kit um so you'll need that much leather to cut out the project you'll need about 23 inches of number five zipper we're gonna build the zipper ourselves uh because I want it to have two opposing slides so you can open it from the middle like what you saw me do there you're gonna need a couple of Handy Dandy little brass rivets and you're gonna need a couple of brass d-rings now you don't have to use brass for either of those but since I'm using a brass zipper I want to use my breasts uh Hardware to match okay um that's pretty much it as far as other than that you need your sewing supplies and your tools but as far as materials go that's pretty much it um the cutting out is super simple you need one handle piece a top and a bottom piece which are the identical you need one main body piece and then the tooling panels the the tooling pattern after the Project Box whoops knocked the ruler right off my desk the tooling patterns I'm gonna put them as a free download on our on our website so that anybody can grab them at any time but uh you gotta I've got a top piece here I've got a front piece here and I've got a little handle support piece you can make this without all the tooling pieces however they really add some Pizzazz to it you know a little bit of Razzle Dazzle and um so yeah again you can make it without it but I designed it with it I think it looks better with it um even if you just maybe did different leather accents or something if you're not a tooler I get it you know maybe some sort of patch or something over those areas or something just to kind of break up the monotony of a big Square case um so yeah without further ado let's get with it all right so the first thing that I need to do to build this project is I need to skive a few areas okay I need to Skype about 3 8 of an inch all the way around uh the bottom and the top pieces okay and I'm going to Sky up about a half to two-thirds of the thickness of the leather away and that way because it's a turn bag you're going to sew it inside out then then turn it right side out ing is not 100 necessary to actually build the bag but it is if you want the seams nice and tight and uh you know that's that's that's what makes it to where those those pieces will turn well and you won't have a big thick seam right there okay but you also all the way around this piece all four sides of it exact same skive okay and then I think I failed nope I just got it then on this piece this handle piece you just need to skive the tips of those little ends right there okay super easy if you have a scabbing machine it's super duper easy if you don't and you're a hand skiver it's not super difficult but it will take you longer scabbing isn't is an art form on its own I know um I'm okay at it by hand but I'm not super great anyway after you've done that the next thing we're going to do is we're going to build the zipper okay so what I do is uh first thing I'm going to do is take my slides here they are I've got two slides and I've got two bottom stops okay the ones that hold the zipper together not the top stops that are designed to hold it apart and the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to separate my zipper and put my slides on and put one on one end one on the other end and pull I'm gonna go over here to the other end of it and put another one on going the opposite direction okay um this is this is can get difficult to line up sometimes I get lucky and get it on the first try but most of the time I do not but you put it on one side and zip it or get it a little bit up on it and you put the other side in yeah there we go all right and then the goal here is to get it to zip up without excess zipper being on one side or the other okay and how you tell that is see right there on both sides of the the slide is a little bit of a bubble all right now if I've got it um got it done right and lined up there's going to be an even amount of bubble on both sides of the zipper if I accidentally put it on to where one side uh was was further up than the other than one side's bubble would be bigger okay but it seems like I did pretty good getting them how I need them all right so I'm gonna just unzip those to about the middle section there and um again I don't often get lucky on the first try but you know sometimes we do all right now now that I have my zipper put together like that I'm going to take it and just lay it as flat and straight on the table as I can it's very helpful I'm using my cutting mat as a reference I'll use these straight lines on the cutting mat so I know that the zipper is straight and I'll just set my my leather piece right over the top of it as if I was installing it and what we're doing is we're measuring it to fit now I'm going to take my handy dandy little Sharpie marker I'm going to come all the way over here to one side and I'm going to Mark out the last two teeth on the zipper that I can see just making a black on black mark on them okay if you want to have a blue marker make a blue marker mark on them I'll do the exact same thing on the other side now when I go to knock the teeth out of this zipper I know which ones to do so I'm gonna go ahead and color in a couple more teeth there now the ones I marked are the ones are the furthest to the inside of what I'm going to uh to knock out okay as I knock these teeth out I'm going to start with those teeth and I'm going to work my way away from the center on both ends and then I'll put my stops on so what's that look like I'm gonna zoom in a little bit so you can see I've done lots of zipper installation videos but I still I try to remember that just because I've done lots of videos doesn't mean you've seen those videos um so I try to still do every video as if it's the first one of mine that you've ever seen so I've got my teeth that I marked out with the black okay and I've got my zipper tooth remover tool here okay uh it's got a number five on one end number three on the other end I saw these on my website uh before I found these I would sit there and use a pair of Nippers and actually nip off all the the zipper teeth and it was a real pain in the butt I am not gonna lie but this thing makes it easy so we're gonna put the number five on there because this is a number five zipper and look at that just busting teeth and I like to bust about um six to eight teeth on each side okay this thing will bust two teeth on each side at a time so I'll hit it four different times on this end there we go and it can get hard to pull off of here but you do it just gently and it'll come off and then you just give it a little shake and those teeth just fall right off that silly thing okay I'm gonna do one end on the camera completely and then I'll I'll pause the video and I'll do the other end um so you don't have to watch me do repetitive stuff over and over okay now I have that end all the teeth are busted off like they need to be now I'm gonna grab me a piece of uh rubber here sit on top of my anvil and this is my top style or my bottom stop right here okay it's just this little brass piece it's got four little prongs on the back of it when I go to install this on the zipper I want to make sure that I can that my slides are facing up I don't want to install this upside down on my zipper or on the back side I guess you could say I'm gonna take it and I'm gonna put it right up against the last the the last tooth that I left there and then I'm just gonna tap it down with my hammer into my rubber if you don't have a piece of rubber that's fine use some some scrap leather or something but you want it to be able to go through the zipper now that I've done that I'll turn that over grab me a pair of pliers I know I've got three or four of them over here somewhere and I'm going to gently Bend those prongs back or not back but toward each other okay so it looks like that they're about halfway bent towards each other and then I'm gonna come back with my hammer and just flatten them out gently at first to make sure they're going to bend the way I want it and there we go so there's what the front looks like here's what the back looks like and now I can confidently unzip my zipper to that point and know that that sucker is not going to come off that is properly set okay so again I'm going to pause the video I'm going to do the other end of the zipper all the same things and when I come back we will start putting the zipper to the to the leather all right now we finished making our zipper now let's see if we did it right and how we do that is we check layer leather back on top of it and those two slides or stops should be just right at the ends of this giant oval that's cut out of our leather okay and um yeah I did mine right hooray nothing worse than setting up a bad example right all right so I'm gonna move my zipper aside there I'm gonna take me some double-sided tape and I'm going to stick my zipper to the back of my piece okay I'm gonna run this double-sided tape just right alongside the edge of that cut and um I don't want it so close to the edge that you'll be able to see it after I sew the zipper okay so I'm putting it about 30 second of an inch I don't know like a millimeter away from the edge just so it's not peeking over the edge all right we got that done I'm going to take my zipper back I'm gonna lay it very nice and straight once again I'm going to use my little guidelines here that I have on my uh piece I'm going to make sure that my slides are just straight out to the sides I don't want them um hanging uh hanging off to the sides because then they're going to get stuck in my tape and mess everything up and I'll just make it hard to get this thing on here straight but if I can lay this on here or lay this down real nice and straight then when I put the leather over it I shouldn't have to do too much adjusting to make sure that the zipper is straight with the leather okay so peel the back off my tape now when I was new at doing this I would only pull one back off my tape and I'd lay it on there get everything nice and straight then I'd pull the back off the other piece of tape and lay it down too and it did seem a little bit easier for me then but as I've gained more experience now I just do it all at once so I'm just going to lay it down I'm going to start at this end making sure that that zipper is right in the center of my opening a little bit of variation down here all right good and straight it is okay beautiful okay so the next thing I'm going to do is I'm going to go over to the sewing machine and I'm going to sew that piece on now I'm going to use a couple of different pieces of our colors of thread to sew this project together when I'm sewing the veg tan to the the base leather here I want to use my natural colored stitching because I really like it but for all the other stitches I think I'm going to do um a darker color or maybe I'll just do natural because it does look pretty awesome on this one yeah that's good we'll just do natural the whole thing so anyway I'm gonna get everything set up to uh use the class 26 I'm going to sew well since I'm I'm sorry I'm an idiot today since I am going to um use the same color thread I can go ahead and stick this next piece on too which is the front tooling panel all right I can stick it to the leather and then I can sew around it and sew around the zipper all you know not going back and forth to the machine so many times all right so I need one of my large rulers for this because I want to Center this right to left on this entire piece okay now when I do this I'm going to put it about 3 8 of an inch from this top Edge or this the zipper edge here okay I don't I don't want it crazy low but I also don't want it to get down into that bottom sky where I'm gonna have to sew the bag and then turn it right side out um because that's too low so if I put it about 3 8 of an inch or so below the the zipper opening we're gonna be good to go so let me find the center on my uh whole piece here the whole thing is a little more than 22 inches wide and then I'll find the center on my uh my tooled piece here okay everything's gonna line up great now I'm going to put some tape double-sided tape on the back of my tool piece see if I have a wider roll of it here I can use the quarter inch and just do you know four or five strips of it or I can just use this wider stuff and do like two strips and call it good glue is uh fine for something like this right here but double sided tape is faster way faster all right make sure my ruler didn't move when I was doing that looks good pull the backing off my uh tape here okay make sure my ruler didn't move we're good make sure my ruler is good and square to the project so I can just lay this on top of it and then I'm going to Center this on the ruler as well I'll lay it down there we go now I um I'm looking at it and the the piece uh is not quite straight it's a little bit Askew and you want to judge that by looking at the uh the zipper cut out okay that's the only piece that matters when it comes to uh um making sure this thing is straight because if it's not straight with the bottom nobody's going to notice but if it's not straight with that people are going to notice I assure you all right now we're straight with the zipper cut out we are good to go all right I'm going to take a few minutes to get my sewing machine ready I'm going to use a cobra cobra class 26 for this entire project um I could use my flatbed machine for this stuff right here but I like to try to just use one machine if I can so I'm going to use the 26 because honestly it's easier when I'm going to put on the the top and the bottom I could use them on my flatbed or do those on my flatbed machine they're just easier on the 26 okay so we'll be back all right so here I have my class 26 uh cylinder arm sewing machine set up I'm using size 138 thread uh with a number 21 needle and I am going to be about eight stitches per inch when I when I sew this on the first thing I'm going to sew on is this little patch okay so super easy just right around my border I'm gonna go ahead I'm so all the way around it now um for new folks with a sewing machine if you notice I did not do a back stitch that is because since I'm going all the way around it all I need to do is so back to my original Stitch and then uh I'll just sew over my first couple of stitches and that'll that'll serve as to uh to tie the to uh tie the stitches in and make sure that they don't come loose so so no real trick to this at all we're just going to sew all the way around the sucker being careful to make all of my turning motions while the needle is down in the leather I did the border on this just happened to do it just right where it basically my Center foot just right right along the middle of the Border there and the spacing is super easy to figure out okay and I'm doing the patch on first because when I go to sew the zipper this is going to kind of overhang the the edges of the machine or whatever and I want to uh I just want to make sure that this tape didn't let loose while I was sewing I'm not as worried about the tape that's on the zipper because the zipper is more flexible than this patch is all right back to my original couple of stitches so I over stitched them and uh we are good to go so I'm gonna go ahead and clip that off right quick and then we're going to stitch the zipper on all right to stitch my zipper on the start anywhere except the ends I just don't like starting on the ends down here um so I'll move it a couple inches in from the end and I'm gonna start right there now I'm going to zoom in a little bit just to show you a little something what I'm doing here now when I do this I like for my Center foot to ride right along the edge of the opening for the zipper okay right along the edge of the leather there then the presser foot is over here on the wider piece of leather Okay the reason I do that is if I move it the other way and try to ride the presser foot right up along the edge of that opening I rest my presser foot falling into that opening and then that's just going to screw everything up it's going to throw it all off and it's going to be ugly um so my project is always kind of on the inside and my my presser foot is on the what I call the meaty part of the leather The Wider part of the leather I'm not trying to put that edge presser foot right along the edge of that cut so all that being said we're just going to stitch it on we're gonna just Stitch all the way around we'll check and see how my tension and Stitch length are doing on this because it is going to act a little bit different since it's not sewing that big old patch on there and everything looks fine so I'm going to go ahead and just Stitch the sucker on here no big secrets to it when I get to the ends I'm going to make sure that I do all my turning motions while the uh needle is down in the leather and that's going to be that now when I get to my where my zipper pulls are I'm going to open them past where I've already sewn and that way I don't sew that bubble that we talked about into the leather it'll kind of smooth that out make it make it more natural right there and then when I get to I'm going the other way I'll move them again to an area that's already been sewn okay I'm down here at the end and again I'm just making my turning motions going around this thing and um roll up the end of it here so I can stuff it in my uh the throat of the sewing machine but again as I as I go around the end I'm going to make sure I do all my turning motions while the needle is down in the leather okay and that ensures that um I maintain a constant Stitch length all the way around and it doesn't uh doesn't vary and get different on me so there we go and now we're going back and what I decided on this is I'm going to do all my top stitching um with the uh this natural colored thread but then when I sew my top and bottom on I'm going to use a darker thread that way in case the tension's a little off or something or I've got a funny spot in it you won't see the thread as much in the turned bag okay so that means once I'm done with this I need to go ahead and make my handle right quick while I have this color and thread in here and that way I don't have so much stuff that I have to go back and forth with thread cover now I have the the top panel the tool panel that's going to go on the top of the bag and I'm not going to sew it on the bag until the bag is built we experimented with it you know I've made several of these already I made them several different ways just trying to figure out what would be the best way you know the order of things to sew together and all and the two times that we tried to sew it onto the top panel and then the top panel into the bag it ended up looking kind of crooked so I think it's easier to build the bag um and then add that top panel onto it afterward and it ensures that it looks straight when it's on there um the the top and bottom panels of this bag are um they have some pretty tight radiuses so it's it's hard to get them exactly on there straight and you don't notice if they're on there a little bit crooked but you will notice if they're on their crooked and that panel is uh there to show that to you so just worked out better when we sewed it on last back to my original Stitch I'm gonna go back over my first few and there we go this one's ready to pull out we're gonna go back to the desk for a moment and I'm going to put that handle together so that we can so I can show you how um how it goes together and sew it together right quick and then we'll come back to the sewing machine and just keep on plugging away at putting this thing together so there we go all right so real quick I'm going to show you how we put the handle together because again I want to do the stitching on it and it's all kind of the top Stitch color so we're going to need our our big handle piece here we're going to need our two d-rings and then I'm going to need my little overlay piece there and again if you're not doing tooled leather that's fine you'll see how this is stitched on and then you'll just basically Stitch it without this being on it so super easy to do first thing I'm going to do is take a piece of double-sided tape and just run it right down the center of the wide part of the handle making sure that the tape does not exceed like where it goes from wide to thin there I don't want it to go past that line where those Corners are okay so I'm going to take and put one d-ring on each side of my handle okay very important that we put the d-rings on here first otherwise it's no good so pull the backing off the tape and then I'm just going to fold these up now when I say put the d-rings on it um I put them on with the rounded side towards this okay and it doesn't really matter where you fold it up to you don't have to fold it all the way up till it's tight or anything like that but there's there's kind of where I did it all right so now I'm going to take the other side my d-ring fell off and I held it up to the camera and do the exact same thing with it okay now I'm gonna get some more tape and um I don't I just needed to cover up these areas but just for the ease and time of it all I'm going to go ahead and run it all the way across there um granted some pieces now have places now have two layers to take but that's fine okay do it just like that and I'm going to take the backing off that piece of tape now these sides I'm going to fold them up until they meet approximately in the middle okay I say approximately because I'm not measuring it I don't need it to be a thousand percent right in the very very very center but I need it to look like it's in the middle okay and then also this tape is going to be in the way over here so I'm going to roll it back just a tiny bit so it's not going to be seen past my leather and then I'll take the other side and also roll it up to the middle-ish okay I want those two to set right up on against each other okay just like that so there we go now we have a very pretty handle I'm going to grab my roller as soon as I find it here's a roller and I'm just going to roll that down nice and flat okay then I'm going to take my my leather my my tooled piece here I'm going to lay it right across the back side of it like this and then my stitching is going to go around the outside border of this okay if you don't use one of these that's fine you can just do you a stitch line around all that but mine is going to be on that right there and uh yeah it's gonna be pretty and that's the only Stitch that holds the whole handle together it works really well handles are are a different Beast they're coming up with new designs and ways to build handles is always a fun uh fun little Adventure to figure out I really like this style I'm glad that I was able to put it together um all right I'm going to use my centering ruler here and just make sure I got it all in the middle all right the handles in the middle of the ruler and then the leather is almost in the little middle of the handle about right there okay we're gonna go back to the sewing machine and I'm gonna sew just around the the border of that tooled piece right there to uh get the handle all nice and assembled alrighty so here we go all right so now here we are ready to sew this piece on I'm gonna sew it on the exact same manner I sewed the other pieces together nothing to it I did make some adjustments on my tension on my machine though so I'm going to be checking this carefully while I sew it just to make sure everything is good to go that looks good top and bottom so the last time this machine was used was in a class and you just never know where everything gets set after a bunch of students have been a part of it all so my sewing machines are my ladies and sometimes I have to apologize to my ladies for letting 15 20 other people turn all the knobs and screws on them so all right coming around the back stretch foreign stitches there and there she is all nice and sewed up so um in just a moment I'm gonna grab the next couple of next piece where you need and a couple of clips and we'll be right back all right so I set my zipper onto this piece here now I need to trim off the the excess zipper here where the the other teeth are there and I usually do that after I sew it just to make sure I got lots of room to get everything sewn together so super easy to do trim it off just like that if you want you can even burn the uh ends of that a little bit so that they don't Fray inside your project but I'm not as concerned with them when this is a tool kit If This Were a makeup kit I might care a little bit more about what the inside looks like um next thing I'm going to do though is I'm going to fold this thing in half keeping in mind it's got that panel on there so it's not like I'm putting a crease in it or anything okay fold it in half and I'm gonna put a couple of Clips on it just out of the way what I'm sewing is going to be right along this line right here so I'm going to put the Clips off to the side a little bit so I don't have to move them while I sew and we're going to create what I believe is called a lap seam on this okay so I'm going to take it and put it in my machine here and I'm going to put the edge presser foot right at the edge of my sky right where it goes from from thick to thin thinner and I'm gonna do a back stitch at the top and then I'm going to sew all the way down it and then I'm going to do another back stitch like I said I'm pretty sure this is called a lap seam um unfortunately I don't have formal training on this stuff I just uh you know most of the stuff I know I've figured out okay so we'll pull that out clip that off right quick now now take those clips off and what I need to do is I'm going to take I'm gonna show you this from the end here I'm going to take and open that back up where you know that seam would be flat on the inside and I'm going to fold everything over to one side all right and then it's difficult but what I'm going to do is sew it again right along the edge of that fold and that'll be where the lap part of the lap seam is okay we also did this on our two-tone tote not long ago but it's a little more difficult because this is now a circle okay and I can't open the circle up to do this so I'm going to have to just kind of maneuver it under the machine how I can to uh to make it happen and then this is the last thing that I'm going to sew with this light colored thread until that very top panel is ready to go on the back so get it in there as nice and straight as I can hold my threads here I know my hands are in the way I apologize do me a back stitch or two and then I'm going to just sew that seam down you can tape it down first if that helps but I I am not there's no real reason I'm not I'm just not because I'm over here and my tape's over there and you just make sure that that seam is folded over tightly against the previous sew line you don't want a big loop in there you know you don't want a big gap and then as you keep going it gets a little bit more difficult towards the middle because you got to finagle all this stuff to keep it out of your way all right just concentrate on keeping it straight the rest of this stuff will be all right one more Stitch I'm going to do a back stitch I'm just putting one back stitch in here because it's uh that's going to be part of another seam once I tow the top and bottom on so I might as well make it just a small back stitched area I'm going to clip that thing out of there right quick and I'll show you what we've done foreign that we have created okay it's pretty straight I mean I can turn this thing right side out now so you can see it but there should be okay so I need it inside out still so I'm going to go ahead and take it back to inside out now it doesn't matter if I sew the top on or the bottom on next but it is time to do those and I'm going to switch the camera back over to the desk to show you how I line it up and clip it on because I don't feel like trying to finagle all that right here in this tiny area I want to have some room to do it and show you it the right way okay so now when putting the the top and the bottom pieces on um generally I would say oh yeah okay you fold the top in half and you mark where that half is and then that sews to the the mid seam and the back and then you just clip your way around and that's that's not a terrible bit of advice but what we have to remember on this particular project is that we've got this panel that has to be centered in the front Okay that panel that we sewed on right there has to be centered in the front so what I'm going to do is I'm going to clip this thing together um basically eyeballing where the front is and centering it right to left on that panel itself okay because we are trying to line everything up to that panel now it is the new center even if it happened to not be exactly in the center after we did our back seam okay um especially once we get the tool insert in there you don't want the tool insert in there and then the everything's kind of cockeyed to it that tool insert fits in here very tightly and uh you you want to make sure that that panel on the front is centered on it and it's not wrapped around the side of it um my Clips are over on my other sewing machine I'll be right back all right I've got all my uh my Clips poured out here now ready to use so I'm just going to go along and clip this sucker together once again when I get my Clips out here to the where the corner of the lid piece is and make sure also that you're clipping it finish side to finish side okay we sew this entire bag together inside out then we turn it right side out but you can look in there once you've got it kind of clipped in on the top you can look in there and see if it's centered on your panel it makes it a little bit easier to see and mine is not I definitely need to do some adjustments okay so I'm going to do some adjustment and get it where it needs to be and then try it again all right let's take a look at that again still needs to come over just a little bit beautiful now we are where we need to be okay so I'm gonna put a couple more Clips in there just for rigidity I like to have my Clips basically One Clip spacing between each of them now when I come to these Corners okay again this is a pretty tight radius for a turn bag so what I'm going to do is my my outside wall piece here I'll call it I'm going to stretch it just a little bit in that corner okay and that way that um it'll help it to uh lay together as it uh as we go around that corner okay sorry there's not words for some of the things I'm trying to describe here um that's part of my issue all right so I'm up here at another corner now and I'm gonna stretch it a little bit okay but I'm not gonna clip around that corner yet I'm gonna work on the other side and get back over there and then hopefully everything will line up to where I've just done it right and everything um you know nothing needs any adjustment to make it all fit right I've built at least four of these out of different leathers and everything and everything's turned out really well so far but you just never know um you know a quarter of an inch on your seam allowance is makes a huge difference in the circumference of something like this okay so we're just gonna flip around find our happy spot get her done okay now down to just clipping the back side on and what I'm going to do is hold it up there make sure everything looks like it's going to fit good and just start clipping around and I'll see if you know one side seems bigger than the other or whatever make sure we don't need to make some adjustments okay so you see how the lid has a bubble in it and it just the the the the walls aren't as long as the lid I guess you can say it's not a problem I'm just going to work my way back around it a little bit adjusting clips and moving stuff until all of it lines up a little bit better okay not a big deal at all but I will stop adjusting at these front Corners because again I don't want to move my point of center on the front okay so yeah so we're gonna make some quick adjustments here it's not much maybe an eighth of an inch of difference is all I need to make up for that's not a big deal at all it's uh and all the bag making it's very important you don't ever want to sew a bubble into it like a fold over area or something where it's too big you know one side of a seam is too big for the other side because I promise you it may not seem like a big deal on on the inside when you're making it when you turn it right side out you're going to regret it or maybe you won't care I don't know I heavily regret it every time I've done it because then every time I look at that project all I see is that one area where I did that so I work hard to work those bubbles out before I even uh clip it get it all clipped together all right so here we go I'm gonna go back to the sewing machine I'm gonna change out my thread because I'm going to do dark brown thread on this and uh I'm gonna sniff that sucker on so when we come back we'll be doing that okay so as you notice I have adjusted the angle of the camera because this project is going to be sitting out here like this and it would have just how the camera was looking at it from this direction it would just be in the way the whole time and it would actually block and hinder your view so I'm gonna put this in here and again you can do this on a flatbed machine but I found that this cylinder arm machine does make it easier because I can kind of hang it off here at an angle but the easiest way I've found and all the ones of these I've put together is to have it to where it's at this angle where the the top of it the top of the case is is facing um the machine itself I guess you can say and then the sidewall is facing the ground and um as I Stitch along I don't need to back stitch the only tricky part is when you get into those corners and I'm going to show you why I like to do it this way because it makes those Corners just kind of roll right through the machine and as I Stitch along I uh pull off my clips okay and then when I get to this corner I want to make sure not to do too much movement while the needle's not down in it but I'm gonna just rotate the bag okay now just let that that presser foot walk along in there um again I'm just sewing it right where the uh that edge foot that presser foot is uh right at the edge of the skive and I just let it walk through that turn and then now I'm at a flat spot again so I'll race a cross over to the next turn and that's what stinks this thing's not very big but it's got four ugly Corners to it and it seems like all you're doing is negotiating corners there's no big long areas to just you know enjoy your stitching okay now I'm gonna show you sewing this on this top here but when we go to sew the bottom I'm not going to waste your time doing it again on the video because honestly it's the exact same thing the only difference is you've got to make sure before you start sewing that bottom on you've got to unzip your project a little bit okay just enough that you know you'll be able to get a hand in there and unzip it once it's sewn shut because if you don't get that zipper started then you're going to uh you're going to sew it shut and it'll be shut forever ask me how I know um and especially like the the zippers that we send on the project box and stuff are not what's called locking zippers but locking zippers you have to be pulling on the the tab a certain way to get them to open and close um basically like like on your blue jeans your blue jeans zippers just don't come down or up you have to be pulling on them because there's a little locking mechanism inside them that makes them that way and um you know if you're using a zipper like that you'll never you'll never negotiate that thing open from the outside of the of the bag it's uh it's a sad fact and it really stinks when you put a lot of work into something that that can happen okay we're on our last corner here take a little clip off there just keep rotating it through letting it feed itself right through the machine of course the last Corner wants to be a bear for me just for the fun of it it's prove to anybody watching this video that nobody's perfect now I'm back to my original Stitch area but honestly when I first started stitching this I was a little bit too far away from my skive so I'm gonna sew back to where I'm happy with where that Stitch is and then I'll line it up and do my uh my locking stitches from there it's just three or four extra stitches to get to that area and that's the beautiful thing about a turn bag if your first Stitch line was too far to the to the outside towards the edge of your leather you can always put another Stitch line inside of it and uh nobody will ever know okay give it a quick inspection make sure I didn't sew any um uh any bubbles into it anywhere and everything looks alright the Stitch line is not perfectly straight but I'm okay with that because I know once I turn it right side out this is going to look okay so we're going to go to the desk I'm going to show you what this looks like to turn it right side out and then I'm going to turn it back inside out and and put my bottom on it and and sew that on all right so that was the top of the bag that I sewed on there okay so now I can I'll just I don't need to turn the whole bag inside out I just can turn the top part inside out okay unzip that a little bit we'll kind of take a look at what we got going on make sure everything worked out fine there we go just like that and then when I make a bag like this a turned bag once I turn it right side out like that I will uh take and kind of pinch the seams down a little bit to get the stretch in there that they need to lay squarely like they should okay like that okay so everything looks good I'm going to turn that back right side out and zip it part of the way up um okay and again I'm not going to zip it all the way up or I'll never get into it again once it's some shut and uh it's a little harder when the zipper Inside Out than it is right side out okay now when I line up and clip on the bottom part I am going to kind of do the same thing I'm gonna make sure it's square with the front but I'm also going to make sure it's square with how the top is sewn on okay a lot of things can move during all this if if you're not super careful so it's best to check so while I clip on the bottom part I'm going to make sure that the bottom and the top are are straight and aligned with each other and it's not a skew okay other than that I'm going to do the exact same thing I did when I uh clip the top part on so once again I'm not going to make you watch me uh do 20 minutes of clipping stuff together and sewing stuff together and when we come back we will turn this thing right side out and sew our top panel on so we'll be back all right got the bottom sewn on and it's really funny I wish I had recorded the bottom instead of the top because it just went so smoothly all right now in order to help the corners when I turn it right side out in order to help those Corners lay a little bit nicer I'm gonna just trim them down a little bit and I'll trim them within about an eighth of an inch of my Stitch line being very very careful not to accidentally cut my stitches you cut your stitches you start over nobody wants to start over at this point we've got the the tool panel sewn to it and that's the hard part is uh doing the tooling or the time consuming part how's that and you can trim the entire thing down um on matter of fact on the top side I will uh trim the whole thing up just a little bit but on the bottom part I'm not worried about it because again that tool insert is going to be in there and it won't be seen so on the top part though I'll go ahead and trim all the way around about an eighth of an inch from my stitch stitch just trim it along almost done there we go all right now we're going to turn this bad boy right side out in there so I can pull my zipper tabs there we go all right so to turn the right side out I'm just going to start with a corner somewhere and start forcing it out um it's a little more difficult because due to the uh tooled panel that's on it if it were softer without that to a panel then it would be a little easier but whatever it's what makes it so awesome all right so once we get it turned right side out I'm going to press that on each of the corners make sure it goes good and then again I'm gonna um go around it and kind of pinch that seam oops I gotta take this call right back all right sorry about that Okay so there's the bottom part and then here's the top part we've already got a pretty nice case here we'll still have to put the handle on it and uh we gotta sew the top panel on it okay so what I'm going to do though is I'm gonna go ahead and zip this thing up closed so that I can really see where it sits Square so that when I sew the top panel on it's going to be nice and square with how the bag is okay all right so I've got my top panel here it is orientated a certain way I want to make sure that you know the bottom of the here's the front of the bag the bottom of the tooling um you know I wanted to make sure it's facing the front of the bag get my good double-sided tape out here the wide stuff and what I'm going to do is stick it on there and then I'm just going to turn the lid part inside out so that it sets nicely on my sewing machine while I sew around it um I am going to have to change my Stitch color on my sewing machine back to the Natural though before I can stitch it on there no big deal just takes me a couple of seconds all right so all I'm going to do is peel the backing off my tape actually I'm going to set this on here first and kind of see what it looks like and get a mental you know where it needs to be it's going to look just fine now I'm going to peel the back off my tape and I'm just going to stick her back on there okay that's pretty well centered and square for what I need so I'm gonna press it on there well I turned that lid back inside out again and it's going to be very easy to just sew right around that okay no matter if I was hand sewing using a flatbed using a uh a cylinder machine no matter what it's it's super easy to sew around that right quick then we're going to install the handle but I'm going to switch out my thread color and then I'll turn the camera around to the machine all right so I'm not sure how easy this is going to be to get the angle that you can see uh from the video there this is one of the few times I wish I had a cameraman standing around here with me but that's okay we're gonna figure this out by ourselves just like we always do right Okay so biggest thing is when I sew this top panel on I want to make sure that this previous seam that holds the top and the side together I want it flopped out on the side of the machine I don't want to accidentally sew it down underneath the uh the top panel the tooling panel okay it's flopped out I'm holding my thread let me get a couple of stitches in here so I can get my hands out of the way there we go all right now I'm just gonna Stitch around that sucker just like we've done with everything else nothing to it okay once again do all my turning motions while the needle's down and then once I get to where I have to put the bag under the machine no big deal at all I'm just going to kind of wad it up and shove it in there and it'll be fine let's screw that holds the needle in came down and got my finger and scared the heck out of me I was like oh God I've not sewn my neat my hand doing machine yet I've been doing this for a long time but I'm not going to say it's never going to happen it just hadn't happened yet Janie won't watch me so because she just swears I'm going to do it every day but that's okay all right I'm sure your view is obstructed by the bag and I apologize but got to keep stitching but almost back to the beginning where I'll go over my first couple of stitches again call it good there we go all right we'll meet you back at the desk all right folks now we're down to installing a handle and right in the middle is sewing that top panel on I looked at it and realized that I did exactly what I was talking about and sewed it on upside down okay now I walked over there and I talked to Doc and Tyler and the guys in the store and was like what do you think should I remove it and sew it on the other way and they both agreed that honestly since the basket weave right here and basket weave right here it almost looks more natural this way but um here's how it would look the other way it's one of the other ones I've made and uh I'm kind of torn like I'm not upset about it enough that I'm going to take it off and redo it I am a little mad that after I you know said on the video Don't sew this on upside down and then the next thing I did sew the dang thing on upside down but that's between me and my uh how I do things so all right now what we got to do is put the handle on it okay handle's gonna go just like this right now um so what we need to do is we've got a little scrap piece of leather that is the same leather that the bag is made out of okay and I need to cut off two pieces that are roughly an inch by two inches okay no skiving or anything like that just an inch by two inches about like so okay so there we go actually it's really funny I kind of kept those almost the exact same size all right so here's what we're gonna do now we need to take a one one inch oblong punch mine is missing dadgummit I need to go over and find a one inch oblong punch because for whatever reason mine's not in its tool holder so I guess I'll be right back all right had to go get the uh the puns that I needed and then I had a visitor for a little while so back to it now so this handle this is the first one I did this kind of handle on if you notice what I did is I cut a slot right by the edges of the tooled piece and then I wrapped these little pieces are on the other end of my d-ring sent them down through the slot and then I just put a rivet on the side and it makes a nice handle that when you pick it up it doesn't want to like Crush in the top of the case or anything like that it maintains its shape it maintains its rigidity it looks professional it matches all the criteria I need for a handle for a case like this okay so now once again we're at a point where we have to put the handle in the middle on the top of this bag okay but once again I don't care where the actual top of the bag is what I care about is where the actual top or middle of the uh let me start all that over I don't care where the middle of the top of the bag is but I care about where the middle of the tooling panel is because if I put it on the middle of the bag and that's not at the middle of the tooling panel you're going to notice but if I put it at the middle of the tooling panel and that happens to not exactly be the middle of the top of the bag you're not going to notice okay so one of those do as I say not as I do so anyway I'm going to turn this right side out or wrong side out again and I'm just going to take my punch right along the edge of my tooling leather there making dang sure that it's not going to accidentally punch through my stitches very important that you don't punch it through your stitches in in the edge of your bag okay you don't want to do that and then I'm going to do the same thing on the other side centering it on my uh tooled bees give it away now we're going to turn that right side out again okay now I need to take and fold that piece over my d-ring and I'm going to put a little piece of tape in there to to help hold it closed and be careful that you know if your your handle has if it has a direction that it should be a top and a bottom which mine does not then um you know make sure you're putting your handle on the right way so that it faces the right way uh again thank God mine doesn't because you know a while ago I said that and then I screwed it up so all right so I'm going to just run that tell you what I'm going to do is kind of angle that a little bit and that way it'll set down in there a little easier okay and I'm going to run that down into that little slot that I cut out like so and I want to pull it down until it is tight with the uh tight with the top of the bag I want that that d-ring tight with the top of the back I want it pulled all the way down to it okay and then I'm going to take just like this and I'm going to punch a hole through there and once again I'm going to make sure that I'm not punching that hole through my side seam on my bag that would be terrible uh sorry trying to hold all that while reaching for a hole punch all right and then I'm going to take one of my rivets put through that hole and I'll just use it to hold that in place while I go ahead and set up my other side but there's how that's going to look nice and clean it's going to be great okay and then I'm going to set up the other side exactly the same way so what I'm actually going to do is on the video here I'll just go ahead and set that rivet um and then I'll do the other one off camera so you don't have to watch me do it and uh we're about done with this project guys it's uh it's been fun and um yeah hopefully everyone's got a tool kit they can be proud of all right so I'm going to set this rivet I'll just kind of lean that back get that washer down on there good and tight foreign Hammer there all right and then I'm just gonna pean over that rivet a little bit there we go now the other thing I'm going to do is I'm going to take my scissors and just Lop off that very very tip there because I don't want my zipper pull to to interfere with it or it to interfere with my zipper pull and that should be plenty right there so that it sets down um just far enough away that that zipper pull is not going to hit it so again I'm going to set up the other side of my handle the exact same way and then when I come back we'll kind of go over everything we've done here rivets are set handle's done right now I can do the parquet butter commercial butter um so now we take the tool kit that we uh built the other day the insert and we shove it in there okay and it's going to be tight if we did this right of course all right but if we go slow just making sure that each uh each layer of it passes um passes over all the areas you know everything should go together just fine so just one corner at a time I work it in one corner at a time all right that's the second part we're gonna get to the third part here and then it should set about a quarter of an inch under the zipper I believe once it's uh and good I wanted it tight in there because um when when you make the bag a little bit loose for the tool kit it just looks floppy and sloppy and that's just not what we do here is it no there so the toolkit ends up being about at the top of the leather maybe even a little bit further down than that and there she be so now it also makes it much easier to zip once the insert's in there because it's got some rigidity to it sits nice and square it looks beautiful and all your friends are going to be jealous of your new tool kit or makeup kit so there it was I hope you enjoyed this little build Along video I hope it worked out for you as always if you leave a question or concern in the comments I will try to answer it for you um if you're not subscribed to our Channel we'd really appreciate it if you do other than that have a great day I'm Aaron Heiser makers leather Supply and uh keep on making it with makers

Channel: Makers Leather Supply

Views: 4,287

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Id: 0rf_8EW1w0Q

Length: 75min 48sec (4548 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 23 2023