Building My KTM 200 to Race Silver Kings Hard Enduro

what's going on guys it feels like it has been way too long since I've been in the garage turning wrenches it has been frigid here in Montana I have nothing but a small space heater in here but I'm getting a Pioneer mini split this week so I can't wait to have this space heated I've been busy planning out the kx10 giveaway build getting merch set up on my website so lots of great things in the works but it is time to keep making progress on my KTM 200 build this thing is still torn down to the frame and it is time to build this thing back up because I registered for silver Kings Harden Duro yes I am planning to ride it on a 200 come June I hope I don't regret this decision so I need to build this thing as badass as possible and start training so let's jump back into it aside from cleaning up the engine part of the reason I brought the bike all the way down to the frame is because I want to weld the skid plate tabs on the frame is actually in pretty darn good shape but I wanted to give it a good scrub down while it's this far disassembled I first removed the foot pegs and then scrubbed the frame by hand with a sponge and warm soapy water I used a toothbrush for hard to- reach places and used some super clean degreaser for the greasy spots I also use decal work step one to remove old adhesive residue winter time in Montana adds new challenges to building bikes as my pressure washer is not an option when it's -20° outside I'm in the process of installing a large tub sink in my laundry room for things like this but with a frame being so large the kitchen sink was not an option this KTM frame got a rinse down in the bathtub I honestly contemplated just taking a shower with it hopefully this is the only bath this frame takes but you never know with silver Kings I made quick work of bringing these foot Peg pins back to life with primx cleaning wheels and as you probably recognize from previous builds I opted to run some trusty IMS corand Duro foot pegs here is a comparison of stock versus IMS and you can see they are slightly larger and have better bite I installed the foot Peg pins upside down intentionally as with Hard Enduro riding you tend to drag your pegs on on rocks here and there which if you're unlucky can rip the cotter pin out I gathered some new washers and cotter pins from my fast metric Hardware packs as those needed to be replaced I ended up using pins that were too long because thickness wise they would provide the most strength so I just clipped them with some dyes and boom fresh foot pegs installed successfully while waiting to hear back from my friend about helping with welding as that's a skill and Tool I've yet to pick up I decided to switch gears to the seat cover as I think mixing in aesthetic parts of the build during the more dirty parts of the build is a great way to stay motivated and get excited about the project decal Works sewed a beautiful custom seat cover for this bike and I am really stoked to reveal the complete color scheme Graphics Plastics and all and while I say this is an aesthetic part of the build in reality the ribs on a seat cover do provide increased grip and control and this is something I absolutely notice when going back and forth between bikes with and without ribs especially if you're riding when it's wet this one took me a few tries to get right as I kept ending up with with wrinkles but I took my time removing and reaping different sections until I was happy with the result absolutely gorgeous seat cover I would highly recommend decal works if you're in the market for one I think with the separation of the black sides and white top somehow this seat looks more narrow and more modern I'm really looking forward to putting this on the bike but there's a lot to do between now and then so to continue forward progress I moved on to the suspension tear down you may recall from the first episode of this series that I bought a set of air forks for this bike and those are actually on my KTM 350 right now these Forks are from my KTM 350 and have about 90 hours of pretty harsh riding on them they are certainly due for a rebuild and the left Fork even has a really nasty sticking point about 3 in into the stroke that was undoubtedly contributing to my arm pump I noticed my arm pump developing late in the season which didn't make a lot of sense to me and then when I swapped the new set of air Forks onto my 350 my arm pump vanished so along with rebuilding the sus suspension I will actually be sending all of the shim Stacks out to Daniel Schmidt with DSC Motorsports for a revalve I've been told that a revalve on air Forks can go a long way in their performance so we're going to have Daniel dial these in as best as possible for some Hard Enduro riding again I know air Forks shouldn't necessarily be the first choice for a Hard Enduro setup but in terms of banging for my buck I only spent $550 on a set of air forks from MX locker and they will be a huge upgrade over the stock 2006 forks for work disassembly went quite smoothly as I followed along with the KTM service manual and I did opt to leave the air cartridge assembled I been warned that a single Speck of dust in that cartridge can completely ruin its performance and that if it is still functioning perfectly it is best left untouched as for the Right Fork I did fully disassemble the damper cartridge in order to access each of those shim Stacks being very careful when I slid the shims off each respective Rod not to drop or reorder them I slid them onto a zip tie that would then be sent to DSC Motorsports I boxed up the fork components and shifted my attention to the rear shock check out this sweet shock ring spanner that my brother 3D printed for me it is about time I invest in a 3D printer I think for the rear shock I actually haven't had any luck finding a full service manual for this specific model but I figured the main Concepts have got to be the same as they are for the 2022 shock so I still referenced my 350 service manual and was able to get this thing taken apart this was definitely in need of a service who knows the last time this thing was taken apart if ever it is hard to believe a 2006 shock is now almost 20 years old I mean check out the condition of this seal Nar I have gotten so much better at removing these c clips I remember it taking me like 45 minutes to get that clip out the first time I ever did a shock the oil in this thing was seriously gross you can tell it looks like an old batch of chocolate milk and I don't even want to describe to you what it smelled like long story short it is really good that we're doing this rebuild disassembly from here went well overall except I apparently still have a thing or two to learn about heat o wow that's hot sometimes I'm not very [Music] smart after wising up a little bit and waiting for the shaft to cool down and putting on some work gloves I was able to complete the disassembly and remove the shim stack with all of the suspension components fully disassembled I packaged a box to send to DSC Motorsports for the revalve and now onto the heart of the bike the engine I ordered a handful of new parts which we'll talk about but first I needed to take care of this Kickstarter this thing has been sticky since I bought the bike and requires some Force to put it back in the return position I figure it has never been rebuilt so I got to work it became clear quickly that I would strip the head of this bolt without the Aid of heat so I applied some heat with the map gas torch and the bolt broke free without hassle I used Prime Wheels on the Dremel along with small wire wheels to clean all of the 18-year-old dirt out of these components the kicker mechanism is pretty simple and uses a ball and spring that compresses and expands when you rotate the kicker this is what allows it to lock into each 90° position rather than swivel freely along the entire rotation with each of those components cleaned up and regreased we've got a nice functional Kickstarter once again operator from here I continued disassembly of course beginning with draining the oil I removed the shift lever to improve access for cleaning as well as Expos that shift shaft seal that I plan to replace along with the others this bike doesn't leak as it currently stands but I believe these seals are original and when you're this far in it just can't hurt to spend 30 minutes and a few bucks on new seals it looks like this front sprocket ate some rocks at some point as the case suffered some damage but thankfully it is entirely cosmetic I cleaned up the cases with some biowash and my trusty toothbrush before removing the cylinder these 12 mm bass nuts are absurdly close to the cylinder in terms of clearance and I had to further modify my already modified 12 mm in order to make it fit I conveniently blocked the shot of grinding this down with my other arm but mission accomplished with a highly modified 12 mm Pittsburgh wrench the final cylinder nut was free And the cylinder could come off to reveal a piston in really nice shape there is some carbon buildup on top as you might expect but I can't imagine this thing had too many hours on it better safe than sorry especially with a small board two stroke curiosity got the best of me after removing the Piston as I was just curious how everything else in the motor looked at this point I was only a few bolts away from a pretty thorough inspection so I pulled off the water pump as well as the entire clutch cover both outer and inner I saw nothing of concern and proceed with the clutch replacement when I pulled the clutch pack I was also thrilled to find that even the basket has no notching this bike has either had really good maintenance or really not been ridden that hard in its lifetime and if that's the case I hope this bike is ready for what's yet to come I replaced each of the kickstarter counter shaft and shift shaft seals the first two were easy but for the shift shaft I had two options I could have removed the clutch basket to remove the shaft and pry the seal right out but I didn't have another clutch Hub tab washer and didn't really want to wait for one so I used this method I drilled small holes in the seal being cautious of contact to the shaft and then I was able to pry the seal out and replace it it's really a pretty effective method you just have to be careful I installed the new clutch pack and torqued the pressure plate bolts to spec and the water pump got new O-rings as well again it can be tough to decide what all to do on a motor that didn't have problems I'm usually working with old blown up engines but in this case I tried to prioritize items for both performance and Longevity like replacing seals and O-rings for where I plan to take this bike there's no harm in giving everything a good once over even if it doesn't all need to be replaced I concluded a day in the shop by adding yet another piston to my shelf we might hit two full rows by 2025 I sat down and enjoyed watching AP win in the premere class for the first time ever congrats to the Cowboy and that I resumed progress bright and early the next day I slept on it and I decided to sakat the ignition and clutch covers black to match the current generation ktm2 strokes and figured I would throw the head into because what the hell as it turns out this thing already had a flywheel weight on it and I'm now very curious to try it with out that said I am leaving it on for now as I don't want to change everything all at once I soaked these parts in a Degreaser bath as the first step of the cak Coe process and in the meantime got to work on the power valve it's honestly always fun working on a KTM model that I'm not familiar with because the designs are always a little different than Japanese bikes and this power valve is pretty intricate and really cool one masterfully engineered piece meshes with three different gears two that control openings on the sides of the cylinder and one that controls the actual exhaust valve that's the most consistent amongst all two-stroke power valves the exhaust valve flap was absolutely caked in carbon I would be willing to bet this will be the first power valve service of this bike's 18-year history so we are going to make it count Tu be sered components out and power valve components into our Degreaser bath I even submerged the cylinder in hot soapy water to help break down old oils and loosen up that crusty gasket that will need to be removed when I went to begin blasting the parts to be cerakoted this happened I just lost all power in my garage when I went to turn on the vacuum that has never happened what the hell's going going on the vacuum flipped a breaker let's see if it happens again nope that was odd okay we should be good to go good to go we were I blasted the parts noticing that whatever KTM used to coat these magnesium covers at the factory was absurdly strong my blast media didn't fully cut through it which I have never actually seen before with anything I've put in here but I opted to proceed and see how it turned out given this prep I loaded the parts into the oven for an hour to complete the gas outphase and in that time I shifted back to completing this power valve rebuild after removing parts from the Degreaser I rinsed them in the sink not to be confused with dyn coming soon and in this process I scrubbed Parts down with Dawn dish soap which does a really great job at breaking down oils and this is honestly a prep step as to not totally contaminate my Prime Wheels when I use those to break down carbon and boy break down carbon they will I actually found myself wondering as I did this how did people do this before Prime I probably put around 20 minutes into these parts to restore them back to almost new condition with prime Wheels I do have an affiliate link for Prime down below but I was a customer long before I was an affiliate and that is for good reason I actually don't know how I would tackle this effectively without this product so anyway check out Prime if you're interested cam is a great guy and it's an awesome business to support moving along I lubricated all of these freshly cleaned components and began reinstalling the power valve I did make one mistake realizing that the top arm had to be installed before the flap actuator as it sits in a Groove within that piece just a couple minute setback and a more thorough understanding of how it works I'm actually quite mesmerized by this design everything moves in conjunction as the result of one arm in the bottom end raising from centrifugal force the exhaust flap opens as the two components on the left and right each rotate 18 180° to open additional passages for airf flow letting that sweet sweet 200 hit the power band that we all know and love God I love two strokes and it's almost like I timed it this way the engine covers and cylinder head are done gassing out and ready for coating when I'm not serak coating frequently it's a bit of a learning curve every time and I didn't clean my gun well enough last time so I had to deal with some spray issues early on ultimately these components turned out decent although I quickly realized the clutch cover needed better prep and a lot of imperfections would show through I'm not overly concerned but I am interested to see how well it holds up long term and I should have prepped it with some prime wheels for a better outcome all this said the ignition cover and cylinder head actually turned out quite well and I was excited to install this brand new piston from prox after checking the ring end Gap and confirming confirming everything was well within spec as I've come to expect from prox I proceeded with topend installation the manual suggests using a 0.6 mm thick base gasket and the one that was installed measured 75 mm and that is after being torqued down the Tusk kit came with a55 mm and a25 mm I took my chances with just the .55 and after measuring the X distance that KTM discussed in the manual I believe this is a acceptable ultimately we are looking for the perfect value which can be tricky to measure but too big of a gap means low compression and low power while too small of a gap means overheating and potential failures I installed the fresh black cylinder head and sheesh for a quick engine overhaul this thing looks pretty good in my opinion the intake and read cage are still coming off as the intake will need some small mods for the smart carb so that area will look a little cleaner but overall all I am pretty damn happy and stoked to put this thing back in the frame I added oil which I always like to do with the motor still on the bench in case of a leak and at this point the fire is fueled for continued progress and if you have watched this far and enjoyed this video and have not yet clicked that subscribe button down there what are you doing we are approaching 100,000 such an awesome Milestone love the support in every video next episode is going to be badass I've got some fresh triple clamps from Jesse Angley hey brand spanking new wheel set from rosi a 2023 Brembo front break and lots of other good stuff coming I'm doing a 100 hour Maintenance and Service video on my 350 showing everything you should be doing to your bike after every riding season the KLX 110 build is starting very soon I'm working on a highly requested garage and toolbox tour and those are just a few of many upcoming projects so do me a favor click that like button click that subscribe button leave me a comment down below and let me know what you think of this build so far and I will be back with another one soon

Channel: Kincade Pavich

Views: 82,361

Keywords: ktm, ktm 200, ktm 200 xc-w, 200 2 stroke, hard enduro, ktm 200 hard enduro, ktm 200 xc, cross country, racing, ktm 200 build, smartcarb, aer forks, front brake, brembo clutch, urmosi, soft bar clamp, urmosi wheels, ims tank, ktm build, 2 stroke build, dirt bike build, dirt bike transformation, single track, singletrack, dirt bike, montana, pov, gopro, ktm 350, mxlocker, transformation, silver kings, cerakote, top end, power valve, exhaust valve, seat cover, shock disassembly

Id: gcw0OMlNjLc

Length: 16min 58sec (1018 seconds)

Published: Mon Jan 22 2024