Building an addition: Part 4 (framing)

just right there [Music] so so okay [Music] [Music] there's no reason for all that [Music] [Music] full board [Music] uh [Music] [Music] so so so [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] mm-hmm this one so so all right so we're ready to put some plywood on this is called advantek and it's much better than regular plywood it's kind of like an osb but it's a higher grade osb in my opinion it's the best subfloor to fasten this down i'm going to use ring shank nails two and a half inches i'm also going to put subfloor adhesive on advantik makes their own kind oh so that's what you're gonna need so [Music] so hit the i'm dropping it that's good [Music] one more that's good [Music] [Music] [Music] do [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] there you go so we figured out that this side of the house from here to here which is about 23 feet it's about four inches higher here than it is over there on those top plates so let me show you what i mean so right here is this blue line this blue line is about two and a half inches from the top plate right here and that's a level line going all the way across here you can see this here's the blue line right here and down here look how far away that blue line is from the top plate so i don't know if you can maybe see it here but there's the blue line right there that's just a level line that i put there for reference and you can see you can see just from here to there how much it's going downhill so that means that this side of the house is much higher than this side of the house i'm gonna have to set these rafters at this measurement because this is going to be the lowest point so my whole intention was to stay away from taking this roofing off and what i was going to do was frame the rafters so they come right up to this plywood so that when we put our new plywood in it matches right up but now we're going to be like four inches higher over there with the old roof over top of the new roof so now that's going to have to extend a little bit down just to kind of blend it in hopefully when we're done you won't notice it too much it's nothing that we did but it's something to consider when you're pricing out an addition this lumber company that i use has a moffit that goes sideways down the road so when you have long beams or anything that's long they can bring it in sideways down the road and not have to worry about hitting the corners or anything like that it's easier for him to bring this through here than to bring the truck in unless he has a lot to unload with the truck 18 inch lvls for the valleys are gonna be doubled up [Music] now this is [Music] my hand on until right now i'm sure you're gonna have to come my [Music] way [Music] if it wouldn't better okay lay it flat [Music] [Music] no go ahead and watch all right [Music] [Music] all right now i'm not fitting here just leave it there for a second [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] so [Music] i'm good you push my way about a half an inch and that's good real hammer i might be hitting it up that's perfect right there boy we can slide the bottom out just a little bit right there [Music] so [Music] beautiful hmm all right let's do it so i want to get down here thank you hello come on now i don't think you can probably get the first one tonight eight more so huh gonna be the ladder out here huh i think if you just get in the middle there another two feet i got this i got this uh [Music] so good nail it nope don't nail it [Music] right there let's nail it um this people [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] uh [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] here here [Music] so [Music] okay so we're pretty much done with the framing so let me give you a little tour of it so this is the front door you walk in this is a little mud area to take off your shoes and then this is the stairway to go down in the basement so over here we framed in a little closet or like a pantry the idea is that this whole area is going to be a dining area and then along this wall is going to be cabinets countertops all the way to there and either a peninsula or an island right here so you can see we got these nice windows framed in so the idea was to put as much light in here as possible because this is the north end of the house and this is the east and west so the south is behind and the south is where usually all the light comes in so when you don't have a south facing side it's nice to have a little bit of extra glass to let in some extra light so let me take you kind of back where we started on the framing because i know i didn't do a great explanation as i was going so down in the basement there's still some water and that's because we had two rainstorms while we were framing this one wasn't that bad but the other one was substantial so we just opened up this area so now it'll start evaporating but this will be bone dry when it's done but anyways so we started off with the framing of the floor this is two by eights and we got a nine and a half inch lvl doubled up for the girder so the span for these two by eights is only about eight foot look like eight and a half foot and so we put blocking halfway or about four feet that's that's about the minimum that you want and so you can see that i got some adhesive coming out here so the whole thing with that is that this flooring is great advantech is some of the best subfloor that you can use basically like a polyurethane based foam kind of like great stuff and you guys probably noticed that when we applied it it immediately flattened out but what you didn't see was once it flattened out and before it set up fully it expands again so you have about a 15 minute window to nail it down so what we did is we used ring shank nails and then after that we're going to screw it down when we get a rainy day again we'll just we'll just screw down the whole thing in between the nails so it'll be screwed nailed and have adhesive on it so we used hangers to hang it from everything and we have this ledger board here with these half inch lags going into the concrete and the quickest way to install these joist hangers is to basically what we do is just use nails and put like two or three nails in it and then go back afterwards and put the hanger on once it's already hung you just don't want to like put too much weight on it until you have the hangers on but that's a lot of times how i do it because it's quicker so the we have a beam pocket here in the concrete and by code you have to have a half inch space between any non-pressure treated wood and the concrete so what we did is leave a half inch around all sides the side and the back and the bottom and the bottom has some steel shims that's a good practice that's a good way to to get it off of the concrete plus you can get it more exact like that so we have this framing here for the opening and it's resting on this wall and so it stiffens it up a lot because this is only uh double up 2x8 which is fine my code but this helps stiffen it up but i'm not relying on it so we have this 6x6 post in here to hold up mid span and in the basement here we only have seven foot to here but that's okay seven foot is more than enough the joists are even higher than that the joists are about another two and a half inches higher after we frame the floor then we moved on to frame the walls and the walls are pretty basic two by six we put blocking in between and then what i did was frame up the eight foot walls and then i let the customers see what i had left for space on top and then we decided on these windows here and these are just going to be stationary windows that are going to be custom and so we'll install those once we get them so once the walls are up we installed the ridge beam that established our main height for the roof the common rafters on that gable and then we installed these valley beams which are 18 inches doubled up once we installed these beams then we were able to put the common rafters in first which those are the ones that go all the way and then these rafters right here are called valley jack rafters valley jack rafters actually is what they're called so i just call them valley jacks and once you know the difference between one and the other you can just keep cutting that on the ground without having to measure in between so that's nice and you probably saw that when we were making the cuts like for instance this cut right here is uh 64 degrees on the bevel on the saw which you can't cut on a normal saw so you saw me use that shim to adjust it even more and then obviously the saw can't cut through all the way because it's not deep enough so then you take a sawzall and you continue to cut after you cut it with the skill saw so that's kind of that and this beam in case you guys were wondering we can just cap that with some one buys and make it look like a real wood solid beam instead of a laminate or you can put sheetrock over it too one one or the other you can make it look good it's not really ideal to do this because it's sticking down further than everything else it makes it harder to finish but the lvl company spec this and you can't you can't go less than what they spec because we have a 60 pound snow load here so it's important to design your beams good enough to support that so this ledger board up here i'm going to suggest to the customer that what we can do is because you can see there's some some burn some charred wood up there so i'd like to further the whole wall out to this plane all the way down and that will support that ledger board up there as well as give you a nice surface to to work with here because these these studs are kind of all over the place because this house is 200 years old it was built in 1820 so furring this out would would give you a nice straight wall to work with as well as it would support the roof so originally this was only going to have a three pitch shed roof so it was all going to be pitched like this and then i got on autocad and i did a couple different designs and i showed the customer and he really liked this one where it came out with a gable so that's what we did we got some collar ties up there mainly those collar ties are to hold the rafters together so that you don't have any uplift but also it helps for like a chase and an area for lights and fans to be and stuff because otherwise you'd have to hang it off the ridge beam which is not ideal because then the wires are exposed so we have on the outside we have the zip board and we have some special things coming along with that in some later videos i'll show you guys a really good system to use for this whole house so we went with what i did originally is i designed it where the gable was going to be coming all the way out but then i got thinking about it and basically if if you do that all the water is being filtered or funneled right into that corner and then it just downpours into that area and so we actually had a lot of rain yesterday and you can see that it dug the ground out pretty good but what i did was design it so that this overhang here is about four feet and what that does is allows a substantial amount of gutter to be there so that it doesn't interfere with the flow of it basically if you just have a small little like one foot gutter on the end if this gable came all the way out to the end then it would be so easy for that to clog up and then it would be backed up instantly and that happens from leaves and trees and debris and whatever else so it's kind of it's nice to have this little bit of return i guess you could call it and then i also put this this return right here too and then always on a gable end i i put returns on see how that is so i would have i normally put a bigger overhang than this but i'm kind of matching what they have over here and right now it's not exactly matching but it'll it will when it's done so you guys probably saw us frame up this window here and then we stood it up and then there were some changes made so we had to put in two windows instead of one and the other window was centered here so we kind of had to redo the framing but it's actually really easy to redo the framing and i'll show you guys a couple tricks of how we do that when you're trying to reframe something as long as you're still in the early stages it's not such a big deal all you have to do is take a hammer and bang out on one of the corners to get a little bit of space in between here and then you stick a thin sawzall blade in there which i'm a really big fan of those thin sawzall blades they cut really quick and once you stick that in there you just buzz it up and cut the nails and then you can take the osb or plywood or in this case the zip board away from the studs easily and same thing when you want to take out a stud you just zip it with a thin sawzall blade you cut the nails and then it'll come right out of there so we made this change but that was really no big deal so what we did on this framing for the staircase here is put a ceiling on it and that way instead of going all the way up because then the light would be trapped inside of there so now the light can come over top of that ceiling there and still shed quite a bit of light in here we also have this post here that goes up all the way and supports the valley beams and the ridge beam and that goes right down onto the foundation that we put in so that's posted up pretty solid and then over here on this side what we did was post right through the top plate and up to the top that makes a much stronger gable end than to just take that post and frame it from the top plate up because then you kind of have like a hinge point right there so it's much better to run it right through like we did this at the top where i framed in these windows i still have to put a couple nailers up there but basically i'm also gonna have see i i spaced it down about five and a half inches from the top because otherwise you wouldn't be able to put trim around this window so i'd use a two by six so then i'm gonna on the flat on the bottom i'm gonna put another nailer and then you'll be able to put insulation in that little area it's kind of important to put insulation wherever you can because studs don't insulate that well they do have some insulation value but it's not that great so the next video on this project is going to be the roof and we're also going to re-roof the other part of the house too so that'll be the next video and then after that we'll do some waterproofing installing windows flashing um we're going to do soffit and fascia so the venting for this project is going to be a little different than you normally would see and i'll get into that on a later video and it's very important to vent unless you're going to do spray foam but i'll get into that and i'll show you how we're going to do it on this but for now i'm going to get going on the roofing so this can be dried in [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Jesse Muller

Views: 813,993

Rating: 4.8506451 out of 5

Keywords: wood framing, framing, paslode, zip system, roofing, andrew camarata, matt risinger

Id: WX_Wd0pm5lo

Length: 62min 44sec (3764 seconds)

Published: Thu Aug 06 2020