How to Build a Shed with Cottage Shed Plans

establish where to dig the holes we move the frame out of the way and start digging will fully explain how to build the floor system in the next chapter but for now all we need are two by eights cut to the length and width of the shed you can get this length from your plan lay the perimeter joists out on the ground then nail them together with 12 D or 16 D galvanized fasteners for sinkers once nailed together use the box to position your shed exactly where you want it in relation to the house in the yard cross measure to roughly square the box then place the concrete blocks in the corners to establish the places to remove the grass before I remove the box I check for level from corner to corner this gives me a rough idea of how deep to dig for each block it's pretty obvious by looking that's the highest part of the of the ground here but we use the level of check to make sure that that's where we're going to start from you don't want to start from the low part of the ground and try to work your way up because you'll find yourself digging very far down so we work from the highest spot and do our layout from the highest spot down to the lower spots that way it's a lot easier to add block than it is to dig out earth set the floor joist box aside and start digging I like to use a helper with the shovel to do most of the digging we're just going down below the topsoil and if the topsoil is only four or five inches that's all we're going to go the soil beneath the topsoil here is gravel and water travels right through it very easily so it doesn't it doesn't retain water if it retain water and it froze then it expands quite a bit but seeing that it's a lot of gravel the water goes right through it now you can either put a bunch of block there and build it up from there but I find it's a little easier to grade it [Laughter] just using stone and it gives us a little play left and right back and forth when we put the frame back on to position it right where it needs to go if the bottom of the block is above grade add enough crushed stone around the edge to prevent the block from shifting over time any sized crushed stone will work to support the blocks as long as it's well draining here I'm using a 3/4 inch size all right now we're just going to get a rough level again we're starting with this side on the right that's the highest point and just putting a use a straight edge from one to the next there's let me level list up a little bit just put your weight yeah stomp on a little bit you know work around the perimeter from the highest block taking the time to ensure level foundation saves the headache down the road trying to straighten things up measure that and we're either going to add more stone or we drop that down and put a second second one on there so we just pull a little stone out yeah and put a second block there right perfect position the floor joist box on the blocks and square to make any final adjustments you need let's not try to move the back blocks in place until we plywood it right and we can move it around that way it will stay because the whole thing is going to shuffle okay yeah that's good know what that one we started with could go up remember to position the block faces flush with the floor perimeter perfect [Music] you the floor system consists of 2 by 8 pressure treated lumber joists are 16 inches on center the front and the back rim joists that carry the load are doubled up we'll use 3/4 inch tongue and groove oriented strand board or OSB for the flooring now that the foundation is set we're going to build the frame we're going to put joist hangers on the frame to hold it together we're going to square the frame up and then we're going to put the subfloor down on top of it nail it tight and that'll hold the whole floor nice and square and straight this is the underside of the subfloor which is it stays dry but it's exposed to the ground so while I have it it only takes a couple of minutes just to throw some old stain on here and if you don't have old stain you can buy from the UPS pile at the paint store and it just helps preserve the bottom it's it's it's just an extra little insurance policy while we let the stain on the underside of the floor decking dry we can assemble the floor framing just hold it up tight Mack all right okie doke even though we will use hangers on the floor joists to transfer the load to the rim we through nail them first while it may seem like overkill it's actually the fastest and easiest way to position the joists while we install the hangers to ensure that the load from the floor joists is properly transferred to the foundation blocks we doubled up the front and back rim joist this will prevent the floor joists from sagging over time to nails at each joist location is sufficient when securing the joist hangers make sure to use galvanized nails the copper and the pressure treated lumber can corrode the fasteners Square the floor framing prior to installing the OSB the framing might have moved a little bit during assembly keep going Oh yep that's good yep groove into the tongue groovy tongue into the groove apply a subfloor adhesive which is rated for exterior use to the top of the floor joist why glue why not why go to that extra expense that stuff so pricey makes the floor stiffer and stronger right only when we're ready for the next sheet do we put glue on the outside edge this way we avoid inadvertently stepping in or putting our hand in the glue which instantly makes a big mess set it down gently you don't want to slap it down on the glue just to show you the type of nail that we're using or the differences in the nails this is a smooth shank nail right here this is a deform nail they're both the same length but for subflooring I prefer to use a deform nail this one happens to be twisted there's some that have little rings on them they're called ring shank nail the purpose is that they go in and they bite a lot harder so that they're less prone to pulling out unlike a smooth shank nail so on this joist I kept the glue to the inside edge so that I could catch this sheet when we're ready for the next sheet I'll put the glue on the outside edge again it's worth it during the construction process to take the time necessary to get everything as straight and aligned as possible okay out of the way let's just put it up on the this is where a lot of people miss the mark they don't they don't put the glue in the groove and that's the weakest point so that's where you want more strength increases the stiffness the strength I've read by up to 30% for that same reason I stagger the butt end seams of the OSB use a scrap of 2x4 block and a hammer to tighten up the seams keep going keep going if there's a small difference between the edge of the OSB floor and the outside of the frame don't worry about it you'll be covered up by the wall plate [Music] [Music] you this shet we can build the gable end in one shot and lift it up we frame the entire gable end from the bottom plate all the way up to the top of the roof pitch we're going to put the sheathing on I'm going to put the trim on I'm going to put the window in and then the siding so it'll be 98% complete then lift it up into place once it's in place we really don't have to touch it after that since we have the outline of the roof already on the floor here we're going to use it to find out the length of the gable end studs and so we already snapped this early we snap the roof outline so we could establish the trusses and build those now we're going to use the same outline to find out the length in the location of our gable and wall studs now we know what we're going to have for the length of the studs and adding for the gable end which you will see in a minute to lay out the balloon frame gable in wall I first marked the stud locations on the top plate that we drew on the deck won't build our trusses I then draw a parallel line above the height of the roof peak and Mark the same stud locations on it and then 63 and a quarter yep see I'm going from this mark to this mark but I only have to go in between up to the top of the roof I connect the marks with a straight edge to represent the edge of the stud I can then measure the distance between the plate and the long or short point of the stud as it intersects with the top plate that's the bottom of the top plate and I measure straight down to that red line which is the top of this died I add this distance to the standard height of my wall studs this gives me the exact height of each stud in the gable end wall that's what's nice about having the layout right on the floor really very little measuring while I'm at it I lay the top plates down on the deck and Mark the stud locations this way when I build the walls I'll know where to locate the studs for this wall we opted for a window centered under the gable I adjusted my stud location to land on either side of the window before I move on I mark the stud locations on the bottom plate as well okay let's just put all of these in place the floor deck is a handy surface to build on so we take full advantage of that each stud is secured to the bottom and top plates with two nails at each location 75 inches the rough opening header and sill consists of single two by fours secure to the adjacent studs at the proper height put it oh I use the floor to square the wall all right you all set I'm in the right place all right first attack the bottom plate in place 134 and 1/8 then cross measure and make adjustments until I'm sure that the wall is square yeah I can see it has to come to me - yeah yep according to my eye a little more go back all right right there then tack the top in place with a couple of six penny nails right down near the bottom good alright when installing the wall sheathing I let it overhang the bottom of the wall framing by 7 and 3/4 inches this allows the sheathing to extend below the floor framing that's what I'm looking at when I say perfect the bottom I secure the sheathing with 8d nails I mark out the window opening and use a circular saw to cut away the sheathing writing is up no more trick questions please once secure I cut the sheathing flush with the top plates look at that almost like we knew what we were doing I apply self-adhesive flashing tape over all the seams between the wall sheathing panels [Music] I'm going to take this a step further and we're going to install the trim the windows and the finish siding on here then once that's done we're going to lift it up into place and continue with the other walls and nail down two two by fours on the flat as blocking for the eave trim so I'm putting an extra layer of tape where I know the corner board will end and the siding begins because I know the siding all the nails on the last row of siding will go right along this tape and the nails for the corner board will be right here too so just putting this extra piece of tape helps ensure that the nails are all sealed up after marking the location of the corner boards apply stops to set the siding against these stops will be removed later when we install the corner boards for the gable end trim we use a PVC product that is impervious to rot and can be left unpainted ow the soffit goes flush to the 2-bike blocking we hold the rake trim above the blocking 5/8 of an inch so the top edge will be flush with the roof sheathing once the window opening is flashed and the window is installed we can begin installing the side wall shingles I only have the four inch with me normally I'd use six inch such as happens on the jobsite as well you use what you have you hold on to that so the purpose of this flashing is that if water gets in through the window somehow into the rough opening it runs down hits this flashing and comes out before installing the window apply a bead of caulk along the sides and across the top of the rough opening this will seal the back of the window flange if we went ahead and shingle this whole thing all the way down sided it lifted it up and would have no way of nailing this section of sheathing into the rim of the floor system here this is just to keep the flashing from getting crunched and mutilate below the siding we install drip cap flashing over the water table like most flashing details I like to tape the top edge with self-adhesive flashing hold this down there hold that what I'm doing here is laying out the courses of shingles so that we can try to get them to come even with the bottom of the window in the top of the window just something that distinguishes a good job from a bad job with the story pole laid out we transfer our marks to the wall for reference as we install our shingles notice we use a piece of 3/8 inch thick siding to space the shingles up off the cap flashing this helps prevent the siding from wicking up any water that pulls on the flashing now these are just be great white cedar shingles they have knots in them but they're not so usually up above the exposure line so they're they're cheaper than the ones that don't have knots okay right that's why you can hand nail shingles it's well worth the expense to rent a compressor and pneumatic stapler I recommend an inch and a half staple with a quarter to a half inch crown you have to stagger so that you're you're covering the seams and you're supposed to stagger over three courses worth and these shrink anyway a lot of people try to get them really tight they shrink that's the look they shrink and they turn gray it's the other reason why you want to make sure to stagger the joists because they do open up sometimes up to a quarter I've seen yeah you have a quarterly gap over a quarter inch gap over a quarter inch gap water is going to go right through at the bottom corner of the window notch the shingles to protect this vulnerable spot from leaking because over the next two courses you'll end up with three seams right in a row all the way through which would be a good place for a leak at the rake the shingles need to be cut to match the roof pitch an easy way to do this is to fabricate a simple circular saw sled that matches the roof pitch the shingles but into one by blocking that will eventually be covered with a piece of PVC trim yep right oh if it slips I'm running now it should be all right yes it tacked up tacked up from the bottom so alright you got it I have it you wanted you're just going to nail it or you want to eyeball it close with reliable all at once I get the nail yeah back to me a little back to me back to me right there is good very good yep so that's close we're not quite on our line at the bottom and it gives us enough room to adjust it so what we want you need to go in in the middle of the window yeah not too much just let me pull the nail yep [Music] you after we constructed the balloon framed Gable and wall we discussed in Episode four ready to move on to the more standard construction of the other three walls these walls consist of 2x4 framing there was one bottom plate wall studs at 16 inches and 24 inches on Center and two top plates that carry the load of the roof there's one load-bearing header over the double door and two non load-bearing headers over the other openings for wall sheathing on the back wall we are using a 3/8 inch thick product that has an enamel coating that doubles as our siding for the other two walls we're using a 7/16 sheathing product that incorporates a weather barrier which replaces the house wrap to calculate the length of the wall studs I take the overall height of the wall and subtract the thicknesses of the top and bottom plates instead of cutting each wall studs separately I prefer to line them up on edge and gangue cut them with my big foot saw attachment once the studs and plates are cut I use the flat surface of the shed floor to build the walls I begin by marking the stud locations on both the top and bottom plate at the same time for efficiency and accuracy each end of the stud is secured to the plates with two through nails then we fasten the double top plate at each stud location remembering to hold it back three and a half inches to allow the top plate of the joining gable and wall to lap over and make a secure connection fasten the double top plate at each stud location I tacked the bottom plate to the floor using a small six penny nail to prevent the plate from moving while we square the wall 141 and 1/8 yep that's square as we mentioned we're using a combined sheathing and siding product for the back wall and overhang at three and a half at the end of the wall we let the siding hang over three and a half inches to cover the stud of the adjacent Gable in wall at the bottom of the wall where the siding hangs over the floor framing I measure up and Mark the bottom plate location to ensure that every nail hits home I use adhesive at the seams to secure and seal the panels where they lap strengthening up the joint and trying to make a little more waterproof I'm holding this up because this stuff that's good where it is up there okay what whoop okay got it watch the nail yep somebody and watch the only one let's go up pretty quick yep I'm all set yeah okay I'm gonna push it all right you got it I'll hold it okay now I'm going to go around push it in you are stronger than the Incredible Hulk there you go you're on it okay go ahead once lifted and in place secure the wall to the floor at each stud location and also to the adjoining wall all right now we just have to put a little tape to help seal the outside put the corner board on and we're done god forbid we don't build this sturdy enough in the wind comes and blows it down for the front wall double door opening we use a load-bearing header to support the weight of the roof trusses we decided on a five foot wide opening so we'll make our header five feet wide plus one and a half inches on either side to allow for the thickness of the Jack studs the header consists of half-inch sheathing sandwiched between two two by fours on edge cut to length to support the header two Jack studs trimmer studs are cut to fit from the bottom of the header to the bottom plate to make things easier nail these to the king studs prior to wall assembly five feet right yep small blocks or cripples are placed above the header at the typical stud locations well you smell that somebody's cooking lobster on the grill smell that that lobster shanty anywhere nearby here to avoid the need for load-bearing headers the windows in the shed were sized to fit between studs 2 foot on center all it's required are single header and silk studs above and below the window with such a large door opening in this wall it's impractical to shade the entire wall before we lift it instead we square the wall and attach one sheet will infill the rest of the sheathing after the walls in place sorry I'm all thumbs but before we raise the wall we trim the sheathing around the door and window locations this is a handy trick use the circular saw as a dust blower to keep the dust out of your eyes when you lift the wall pull it pull it tough help pull Oh keep going yeah good now got it hey do you do you it could come in a touch well Matt conceals the sheathing on that wall I jump ahead and frame the last wall i frame the wall just like the others I've had a rough opening for a door that I purchased at the local home store doing all that bouncy hammered the opening is centered in the wall and gets a non bearing header like the window in the adjacent wall a good trick for hammering and tight spaces is to use the side or cheek of your hammer head to start the nail another good hammer trick is to use the claw to countersink the nails at the door locations the double top plate ties the end wall to the adjacent walls secure the top plate with nails located above each stud okay say when when are you gonna push hold it good hold it right there this time hold it there before applying the sheathing square embrace the wall keep holding it okay all right did you check it perfect here we use a scrap tack to the top plate to ensure the sheathing aligns the last step is to remove the bottom plate and the door openings this can be done with the handsaw but it's much easier to use a reciprocating saw [Music] you the root system for the shed consists of simple sight made trusses held together with OSB gussets all right now that we built all the walls all right now we're going to take a step back before we built the walls I actually use the floor deck to lay out the roof instead of using regular rafters and a regular Ridge we built roof trusses I used the floor deck to snap out the lines because it's much easier method of snapping it out full-length pictures and then building the trusses right in place there on the floor deck so front to back is 8 feet so that's what this represents from one side to the other one wall to the other we have 8 feet from the outside edge of that wall framing to the outside edge of this we have 8 feet this is the top of the wall so on top of that we put a roof truss we're going to overhang the soffits six inches if we made it 12 inches like the house it wouldn't be in proportion with the shed so we want to keep the same details but shrink them down to have the right proportion so we're making the overhang six inches so six inches from the outside of the wall to the front of the overhang so this wall is actually this wall right here what we want to do is mark the center it's an 8-foot wall plus six inches on both sides give you nine feet overall half of that which is the center of the roof four and a half feet and then what I'm going to do is just make another mark up here for five feet away doesn't really matter the same distance four feet six inches and then just draw a reference line and this is the center of the building and the center of the roof for the slope of the roof which some people call it the pitch we're going to use an eight pitch here and what that means an eight pitch or an eight slope means that for every foot I come in I'm going to go eight inches up we know we're going four and a half feet in to the center and go up eight inches there's one foot sixteen there's two foot twenty-four there's three foot thirty-two there's four feet and then the half foot equals four inches which is right there okay now we have our top measurement here this is the top of the roof and we want the other top of the roof to fall right on top of the cord there yep just like that because all these marks we're making is to the outside of the roof and the other side so now you can see the three pieces that we need to build a trust we have the bottom cord and then we have to top cords one on this side and identical one on that side that we have to cut out a 2x4 stock what I need to do is get these two angles this one down here and this one at the top so that we can cut this top cord out a couple of different ways to do that is we know this is an eight pitch or an eight slope and on all of these speed squares you see a bunch of numbers here no matter what type you get they're all laid out the same I'll use this one because it's a little easier to read so it's the same thing we're looking along this edge right here at the top and we're going to dial it up till we hit the eight the inside eight not I mean the outside eight not the inside here that's four hipper Valley we're going with the outside numbers that would be it in other ways using a sliding tee bevel that way you don't even have to look at any numbers and all you do is hold it up against the lines move it until you get the correct angle tighten it up and there's the angle for the top okay long point two long point the outside edge of the rafter or the top cord of the truss much better we're going to use the plywood gusset to nail the trust together so I'm just going over at least a couple inches past the inside of the wall match the bottom edge here mark the top but I'm going to mark it down about a quarter because I don't want it coming up above the top again the same thing here down about a quarter of an inch that in this line all the way up doesn't have to be perfect because it's just a connection system so we'll cut that go about eight inches eight to ten inches on either side yep that works so we'll nail that together with the two end ones on and we have a truss the only difference between a gable and Trust and the regular truss is that the gable end trusses sit on the gable end wall on each end because I fit on the end wall the sheathing goes up we have this big gap with nothing to nail to so we're going to put in little uprights in here so the sheathing can be nailed to it all the trusses inside don't need that once the sheathing comes up half inch OSB in this case and we nail the whole thing together that's what really ties it together and makes it strong on this shed we are using two methods to build the gable end walls for no other reason than to show you two methods are most likely to use when you build your shed you want to pick one method and use it on both gable ends if you use a trust to make up the gable you have to add blocking to fasten your wall sheathing after I build the trusses I set them aside until I'm ready for them you this shed we space the trusses two feet on center we mark the layout directly on the top plate then brought the trusses in am i moving along the back wall nailing these with you I think I can do this with you're just staying down there okay we will find out do you want me to set a budget of nails I get in across the back you know what just for now go up on the ladder and hold this as we install the trusses we use a long piece of one by with the two foot on center layout marked on it then we nail it to the gable end and use it to hold and space each truss in place for now we secure the trusses by toe nailing them in place later we'll add hurricane clips to satisfy our local code yup I'll wait for you to get in let's put it in position it's got to go down yeah oh we keep the gable end trust's flush with the framing to ensure the sheathing remains in plane all right okay we got the roof trusses up we just have to do some adjusting here and there take some measurements make sure they're nice and plumb now we're going to put the roof sheeting down to ensure that the roof sheeting splits on a truss measure back from the rake trim to the center of the top core also remember to stagger the seams as you did with the floor framing I can spin it around you want spinning around oh I can spin it around it tonight if I have to got it the roof sheathing we are using for this project has a tongue-and-groove system that keeps the edges aligned without the need for roof or H clips all those designers ever know how to brace the gable if we don't show them how to do it now nail this down to the floor once we get it in position let's over to overkill it's got to go more uh-huh alright now we got to get serious here okay working it is Oh hold on that looks sweet unlike the floor adhesive is not necessary for the roof sheathing guys are making me nervous you in building this shed there was no one-point construction where we can stop and say now let's do all the trim however in a video we can do exactly that there are three main areas of trim for the shed there's the trim around the roof area consisting of rake boards fascias and soffit there's the trim around the doors and windows and then there's a trim that abuts the siding like corner boards and bottom bands or water tables the rake trim is installed first in fact it's often installed before the roof sheathing goes on from the surface of the gable wall we blocked out three inches using two two by fours and flat is blocking for this trim I'm using a PVC trim which is a plastic board comes in a wide variety of shapes and sizes some different profiles this is definitely easier to do on the ground this thing if you only have one guy doing it the soffit behind the rake boards is secured to our 2x4 blocking you don't have to miter the top but you will have to back cut one of the sides to get a tight fit we applied our 1 by 6 rake boards directly to this blocking use a piece of the roof sheathing as a gauge to align the rake trim flush with the top of the sheathing cover on a gable wall the to rake boards meet at the top and a plumb cut miter in this case it's the plumb cut of an 8 12 pitch roof which you can read off your speed square to dress up the rake boards we added a second decorative piece let the downhill ends of both boards run long for now after the roof sheathing is installed we can install the fascia sounds good to me cut the length of the fascia equal to the distance between the inside of the rake boards yeah I know then using your speed square install it so the top edge is flush with the roof sheeting with the front of fascia is a guide cut the rake boards flush to it then make a level cut across the rake boards flush with the bottom of the fascia cut the soffit to the same length as the fascia and secure to the bottom chords of the trusses started here I like to visually check that the soffit is tight against the back of the fascia before fastening it there you go it only comes in about a half inch yep you got it for this project we're using one-piece molded corner boards cut to fit around the soffit at the top and flush with the bottom edge of the wall while fitting the corner board to the soffit might look complicated it's really only three cuts a rate cut that matches the roof pitch a plumb cut flush with the side of the building and a level cut at the height of the soffit underside to finish the trim at the corner require two small blocks piece with a bevel cut on top for the soffit a small right angle triangle for the right trim while it might look like Mack is using office whiteout to cover the nail heads in the PVC trim it's actually exterior rated white touch-up paint almost since we are building our custom barn doors for this project the trim around the front opening is installed flush with the framing good yep all right let's do the other one since you're here and let's make sure that looks about right the windows and doors came with their own molding so the only other trim pieces left for us to install are the two bands one is a trim under the front door or kick plate here I really appreciate the durability of PVC trim this is a vulnerable spot prone to damage and rot but by using PVC I'm sure I'll never have to replace it the other trim band is at the bottom of our balloon frame gable end wall oh yeah yeah okay I'm good we intentionally left this off to allow us to attach the wall sheathing to the floor system you so we're putting in a couple of different types of doors and windows here for this door on this gable end we used a regular contractor grade steel entry door it'll get a lot of use and it's an EZ door to put in and out it's a very inexpensive door but it's still strong and sturdy for the window we bought the smallest window that they had in stock because we didn't want too much glass in the shed we still want to use the inside a shed for mostly stored so we want to limit the amount of glass that's around there for the front we're going to put in a nice wide double door this is where we're going to save a little bit of money by building it ourselves and add some customization to the shed you know how about you getting this other end okay I'm gonna get it right there all can't get that oh I thought you were going to Nome yeah I am but need to do these first before installing the door I cover all the edges of the sheathing with flashing tape for the window opening they create a sill pan with one wider six inch piece of flashing across the bottom I run this up the sides about four inches then I cut away any excess flashing along the sides and stretch the membrane down the front at the corners for the door pan I use the same method being careful to seat the flashing into the corners this helps to prevent the bottom of the door jamb from tearing into the flashing before installing the window apply a bead of caulk along the sides and across the top of the rough opening this will seal the back of the window flange two people can work together to quickly install the windows and doors beautiful I love it for windows the person on the inside can Center the window and make adjustments by gently prying on the edges besides got to go up up a little bit more that's it that's good person on the outside can level and nail the window once it's in place the same cooperation works for the door installation as well good first once the door centered the outside person tacks the molding at the bottom then the inside person can adjust for an even gap between the door edge and the jamb all set go ahead they look good when the door is in place a nail anywhere along the top will hold it until the door can be permanently secured nail it off let me give it a shot alright put one right in the center here I'll hold it - okay also okay good nail it off you got it but the double front door we'll use the same two-in-one siding and sheathing product that we used on the back of the shed this will make light sturdy doors that won't sag over time on the outside we'll apply a 1 by 4 pine frame this adds stiffness to the sheathing and gives us something solid to fasten our hinges to a rough opening is five feet wide so one door is two and 1/2 feet then I subtract 1/4 of an inch all the way around to allow the door to move so I mark and cut two pieces of the sheathing to 2 feet 5 and 1/2 inches by 6 feet 2 and 1/2 inches rather than measuring and cutting the door separately I tack two sheets of the door material together and cut them at the same time seventy four and a quarter again for the one by door framing I stack the pieces and cut them two at a time to temporarily hold the one by I tack it in place with finish nails until I permanently secure it from the back with one inch deck screws to get a solid connection be sure to clamp or hold the one by and the sheathing firmly together as you drive the screws you can design your doors to your own taste here we went for a simple barn door look with no diagonals and not one screw came through good you like that idea let's see what it's going to look like oh it's going to look beautiful huh our hinges were off the shelf barn style hinges from the local home store I attach the hinges directly to the one by pine with one and 1/4 inch screws to hang the door simply hold it in place and secure the other side of the hinge leaves that's squarer than I thought I like that is that a word that's the one very much more square it hit one of the bottom two or call it good for now till we get the other one check it just right I'm using a typical slide bolt and some handles for hardware on the front right for security you can also add slide bolts to the inside top and bottom of the doors [Music] you [Music] for the siding on this shed we're using a number of different sidings for the rear we're using a paneled siding it's a smart side engineered wood panel it looks kind of like a barn board it comes pre prime so you don't have to worry about finishing it right away nice thing about this is quick and easy and this is the finish so once you nail it on there you're done for the front we're going with a more traditional clapboard type of look we're using fiber cement siding here and the nice thing about this is it already has the finished color on it so once we nail that up we're done we don't even have to finish paint it for the gable ends we're just using a white cedar shingle that we're going to let naturally go gray the easiest way to install the clapboard siding on the front of the shed is to make a story pole on the story pole I mark lines to represent the siding if possible I also adjust a course to land directly on the top of the window I place the story pole so that the bottom of the first course hangs down beyond the sheathing by about 1/2 inch I use the story pole to mark the top of each course of siding before installing the first row add a kicker strip this can be a rip piece of siding or in this case we used a 1/2 inch wide scrap of OSB sheathing this strip kicks out the bottom courses to make it uniform with the other courses an efficient method for installing lap siding is to tack and nails at the siding layout marks next to the trim use these nails to locate a piece of siding while fastening it once the siding course is secure remove the nails above it and use them to secure the next course of siding when marking and cutting siding around windows and door trim leave a 1/16 to 1/8 inch gap for expansion and contraction when the bottom of the course falls over a window or door it's necessary to add a kicker strip for these strips I use pieces that are the same thickness as the siding cap flashings above the windows and doors will direct water out if it gets behind the siding cap flashing is sold at most home stores for added protection against moisture infiltration I tape the top of the flashing with self-adhesive flashing tape yeah yeah 1:16 now over the top of the last course of siding I install a piece of one by trim size to leave the correct reveal now that the Front's done we'll move to the side and finish off the last of the siding the process for siding a wall with the shingles once it's up is the same process that we used on the other gable wall before we stood it up only now it takes slightly longer to complete the job since we often have to work off ladders or scaffolding for the upper courses [Music] [Music] [Music] roofing material we chose for this shed is a typical architectural asphalt shingle purchased at a local home store it matches the roofing on the house and is durable and practical for a small shed project it also has the added benefit of being easy to install before installing any roofing we need to install the roof flashing for this project we are installing a drip edge where the roof sheathing meets the fascia on top of that we apply a flashing tape and go straight yeah grate it you can instead of crooked your heads don't slide on it good I've got a roller for that we also apply a flashing tape over all the roofing scenes I think it's clearly obvious to everybody that I've never used this before it's my first time and will take a little practice installing the asphalt shingles is probably the easiest part of building this shed and by remembering a few rules it will protect the shed for decades first install a starter strip of shingles under the first course at the bottom edge and while I'm a fan of following the manufacturer's instructions we used some extra shingles we had left over from a previous project as a starter strip asphalt shingles need to be staggered to prevent leaks to stagger the shingles cut a series of starter shingles and install them in a stair step pattern the manufacturer of this brand recommended cutting pieces of 2821 14 and 7 inch shingles to make up the first shingles in the first four rows the up cuts of these shingles make up the first shingle of the second four rows and so on along the rake will overhang the shingles 3/4 of an inch this combined with our PVC trim will prevent any water damage along that edge no one bread you pay for bread it's not hard to keep shingle rows aligned especially on a small roof like this but it's not a bad idea to snap a few control lines along the way we overlay the top courses then install the ridge cap to complete the roof to finish the roof you use a roof cap which in this case just standard 3 tab shingles that I cut with a little angle on them now you can buy them like this but I happen to have an extra bundle laying around a 3 tab shingles so I cut them up and they fit on the exact same way as the free Bott stuff you for this shed we're using a pretty basic foundation system all it is is cinder blocks on top of some crushed stone that goes into the dirt six to eight inches we just dug the topsoil down until we hit some gravel fill the holes up with crushed stone and then put cinder blocks on top but for a lot of other cases you have to use a more substantial footing either by code or just by common sense if you live in a high wind area or a seismic zone and you want this shed to stay put you have to do something a little bit more substantial than just plopping it on a bunch of cinder blocks okay over here we have some different alternatives to the foundation systems this one actually isn't that much more substantial it's just a little bit easier it's a heavier foundation a heavier block than what I have there you don't want to set it on top of the grass or the subsoil you want to put on something more substantial like we did like gravel or crushed stone once it's set there's a hole formed into it that accepts a four by four post pretty tightly and obviously this is a little bit easier to do as far as levelling because you don't have to set these at all the same level like we did with the cinder block these can go a little bit different levels and then you can cut the four by four to the exact level so your shed stays level and then you have some sort of connector to connect the posts to the floor system another alternative is called the ready footing and this is plastic and consists of a base a top and in between is it just a simple scheduled 44 inch pipe you dig the footing down as far as you want it say you want to go below the frost line and around here it's about 42 inches I would dig down 42 inches set the base down in the hole you cut the schedule 40 pipe place this on top push it tight together you don't have to glue it and it's all set backfill it make sure it stays plumb and there's your footing the floor frame fits right inside the flanges here and then there are a couple of bolts that bolt it and secure the frame to the ready footing the nice thing about the ready footing is that you don't have to wait for the cement to cure the men you dig the hole drop the footing in put the top on backfill it you can build right on top of it right away there's no curing time no mixing time none of that so it's a good alternative to use for a solid footing when you don't want to wait for the concrete this is what most people are familiar with the builders tubes basically they're formed four concrete footings again just like the ready footing you can dig down as far as you want whether it's a foot or three or four feet to get below the frost table if you have one drop this down inside make sure it's in the right position have it sticking up maybe two or three inches above the finish grade backfill it and then fill it with concrete if finished grade came to here we fill it with concrete right to the top before the concrete cures drop in an anchor bolt so it's sticking up about an inch or two once that's cured we have the concrete foundation here with the anchor bolt sticking up about an inch or two now to fasten the floor system to the footing there are a lot of different types of systems to connect a floor system down to a footing like this this is just one where it'll drop right on to the anchor bolt and then you put a washer and nut down and tighten it nice and tight once the fastener is placed on the anchor bolt and fastened and we can put a four by four post in there secure that build a floor frame on top of that and again there are all sorts of different fastening systems to attach post to beam beam to floor connections the whole idea is you want to have a system that connects your floor system to the post to post the footing again the concrete footing is the most substantial footing you can have for a shed a deck or any structure so we've got the block on the rock footing we got a more substantial large concrete footing that accepts a 4x4 post we have a ready footing and then we have the full concrete pier [Music] you there are many different types of sighting options you can put on the shed on this shed we use three different types which is not normal but it worked out it worked it worked well for demonstration purposes and for practical reasons as well on the rear of the shed we use the structural sheathing type of panel which also doubles as a siding on the outside is made to look like the old board and batten or texture 111 look and it comes pre stained so once you put it up it's done and then within a few days or so you just have to paint it and it's all set for the side of the shed we use regular B grade white cedar shingles they have knots on them a little bit more than halfway up which makes them a little bit less expensive but when you cover like over like that the knots are concealed so the knots are really not a problem and it's a less expensive choice than getting the a grade left natural they last twenty to thirty years maybe a little bit longer a little bit more expensive alternative is a red cedar type of shingle a little bit thicker and it has a much longer lifespan these typically go 40 years and over again depending on how they're treated and how they weather now the red cedar a little bit longer than the white cedar and since they're more durable we can actually get a taller exposure out of them the other alternative to a natural white or natural red cedar is to stained the white cedar or red cedar ahead of time these I ordered from the factory and these are dipped so that they're they're covered on all edges bottom sides front and back you can see right where the line is for the dipping this really increases the lifespan of any shingle whether it's red cedar or white cedar this one happens to have a semi-transparent type of stain this is the same type of thing this is a white cedar pre dipped white cedar from the factory it just has more of a solid color stain you can use just about any stain that you want on these you can either order these from the factory pre dipped and dried or you can set up a little assembly line in your backyard and pre dip them yourself let them dry and then put them up and they'll last a lot longer than if you put them up naturally the front of the shed we used a lap siding that you typically see here in New England a lot of the houses have the lap siding but in this case we used a fiber cement lap siding on the front we ordered it pre finished to the color that we wanted it so once we nailed it up put it in it was done and finished and we have to worry about protecting it for a long time unlike the beveled siding it has a square profile but once it goes up on the side it looks just like the bevel siding another option is to use wood beveled siding what the fiber cement is replicating this is regular half by six wood bevel siding it's a clear piece so if you want the look of wood on the front of your shed just like you might want to match the house if you have real wood look this is a more expensive alternative to the fiber cement product but again for that real wood look this is the only way to do it and finally we have another type of wood beveled siding this is either red wood or red cedar but this is a finger jointed siding in other words they they make up long pieces out of very small 8 12 16 inch pieces of scrap that they finger joint they glue together then they run it through the mill once they do that it goes through the painting process right in the factory so it's primed all the way around and it lasts quite a long time if you're going to paint the shed this is a good option because it's inexpensive and it's primed all the way around so there's less labor if you want a natural look then you have to go back to using the wood siding and you have to clearcoat it or stain it yourself you we chose to add a ramp in front of the double door this will allow a lawnmower or snow blower to be driven right into the shed the ramp framing is made of three parts there is a ledger that attaches to the shed under the door opening there the joist to carry the load of the decking and there's a landing plate that stabilizes the ramp on the ground the ramp framing is pressure treated lumber and the surface is synthetic decking which we had leftover from another job this can easily be purchased in small quantities from your local lumberyard or home store first I cut the joists to 3 foot lengths which is how far I want the ramp to be then I hold them in place and scribe the top and bottom angles this is pretty forgiving but it's important to cut all the joists the same so first I cut one joist then use that as the template to cut the other three next I cut the ledger to length which is equal to the width of the opening then I cut a bevel on top to match the slope of the ramp finally I cut the landing plate to length which is the same as the ledger I assemble the ramp using galvanized 80 and 10 D nails we leave that there we doubt this right something like that do I have to go get that crying towel that's in my truck right to the end right yeah when attaching the frame to the shed remember to position it so the decking will be flush with the floor then I dig out to level the ground I don't know what that pencil was for that's a lot more than an inch there bucko gonna buckle you you will not I know we'll put stone in it well you are a little older than me so I thought you might be more tired right let me just get I'm on the Mart inch and a half what you're just putting one in for now and then I'll move this where it needs to be right [Applause] there yep oh and that helped pull it right down when you when you finish that we space the decking to allow a full course at the top and bottom yeah to the mark I made here so that we keep my reign at the same so measure that I've got 30 set 30 and 3/4 30 and 3/4 then fasten the decking with screws designed for synthetic decking we also made a window plant box for this shed constructed from scraps of PVC trim the box had eight inch sides holes in the bottom to allow drainage and was secured to the shed with deck screws horse is wondering when you were going to feel that there you go let the glue do the work [Music]

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Views: 7,764,701

Rating: 4.6939392 out of 5

Keywords: Build a Shed, Shed, Build, yourself

Id: Z00berTW5hc

Length: 73min 10sec (4390 seconds)

Published: Tue Nov 24 2015

Reddit Comments

[u/[deleted]]

That's a damn well built shed.