Building a modern entry hall table

foreign [Music] and I'm going to run through how I made an entry table we're starting off by making a template for the legs [Music] I'd already made a version of this table before so I could just take the measurements from that and transfer it directly onto the MDF [Music] the reason I'm remaking this template is the first table I made I used some terrible quality Plywood And it completely delaminated after the first time I used it [Music] my design process for a piece like this usually starts out with a sketch on paper then I'll transfer it onto MDF and make a template which is at full scale which really helps me visualize how the piece will actually look in real life I'd love to be able to do all this in SketchUp but my phone once there's some complicated angles in joinery I just spend so long trying to figure out how to get that looking right in SketchUp that I may as well just actually draw it and get on with the woodworking portion of the project to make this template I'm using a few fancy tools but really this whole process could be done with a jigsaw and just a sander can be a bit of a fiddle to create a template but it's really worth it and they just open your woodworking up to more interesting shapes [Music] for this table I've chosen to build it out of Tasmanian Blackwood it's my first time actually building anything with this Timber and it's absolutely stunning and really easy to work with [Applause] [Music] [Music] after I've got everything flat at the jointer I can take these pieces to the table saw and cut them down to rough size and then run everything through the thicknesser to get to the final thickness I'm using that thin off cut as a sacrificial piece just to make sure I don't get any snipe [Music] using a Sharpie to trace around this template's great because it leaves a really obvious line and it's quite a fat line so even if I cut quite close to it I don't have to worry about taking off too much material and overshooting it I'm not too worried about being super accurate when I'm bandsawing out these parts but the closer I'm able to get to the line at this stage the better it just saves me having to take more off at the router table I'm using double-sided tape here to temporarily stick the template to the leg blanks and then I can get onto template routing out these pieces and here's where the benefit of getting close to that line pays off because you really have to take small bites at this or else you just get horrible burning if you work your route a bit too hard it gets hot and it just gets blunt [Music] as this back part of the leg assembly is at right angles to the ground I can run it up against the fence to get it down to size [Music] but because the front part of the leg is a slightly more complicated angle I'm making a simple sled to help me make this cut and I didn't quite clock when I was making this that I was doing it on the right hand side which means I have to run the sled against the right hand side of the table saw fence which feels all back to front but it worked I could then get onto cutting the bottom part of that leg by just making a bit of an adjustment to the sled and for joinery on this I'm going to be using the Domino the notch on this piece that I'm about to glue in was originally going to house a stretcher but in the end I decided I didn't actually need it so I just filled it in and it'll be hidden under a shelf so it's not a big deal after tidying things up a little bit at the sander and I can take the leg assembly to the router table and give it a nice healthy round over and then I spent a very long time sanding now it's pretty hard to tell from this Dreadful camera angle but I'm actually cutting a notch here that I can use to later attach the Dropbox assembly to the legs which you can say a bit more clearly in this shot what I meant foreign was to build what I'm going to call the draw box assembly my idea here was to use one board and have it wrapped right around the box so you get a continuous grain if that doesn't quite make sense here it 'll make more sense a bit later on part of the reason why I wanted to use this black wood is because it's got a really beautiful grain and I was really Keen to have that grain wrap be quite obvious the first version of this table I built the wood I used had quite subtle grain so the effect of the grain wrapping around the box was completely lost after Milling everything to the final thickness I spent a little bit of time trying to figure out which way everything was meant to go again trying to match the grains up but here is the idea coming together a little bit [Music] foreign board is making up the two sides and the front panel [Music] and to attach them together I'm using miters I find the easiest way of cutting these 45 degree angles is to just gradually snake up on the cut then once they're all fitting nicely I could cut the two shorter pieces to their finer legs all right [Music] to hold everything together while it dries I'm using blue painters tape it's plenty strong and once the glue's dried there's no need for any other form of reinforcement like splines or dominoes and this is that grain wrap starting to come together quite nicely this is what will actually be the draw front when I'm cutting out and the camera died as I was cutting the other side off camera I cut the back part of the assembly then cut these smaller bits which will act as the drawer supports and after cutting that back panel in these two support panels down to the same width as the rest of the draw box assembly I'm using dominoes again to attach everything while that dried I milled up these boards which will make up the top panel I'm making sure to keep this nice and flat as it dries because once this is out of the clamps we're too wide to fit through my thicknesser and while the tabletop dries I can move back to the drawer assembly and glue this back panel in foreign and I can use this piece of the drawer front just to make sure that everything's spaced correctly now moving on to the drawer box itself this is the back panel that I'm cutting this hole into cutting through that hole leaves me with a notch and it's just much easier to do all this before the drawer is assembled and this will become slightly more apparent later on why I've done this and I can double check just to make sure this is all nice and square and then just come along with a wet rag and clean up some of that squeeze out I'm using dowels here to attach those shorter drawer support pieces to the back panel of the draw box assembly I really wanted this attachment to be invisible as well but I just couldn't figure out quite how to make it work and this is the back of the assembly so I just decided that dowels would be fine and once they're dried I could flash trim them which is always very satisfying I'm epoxying in these brass dowels to the drawers and it's partially for strength but it's mostly for Aesthetics flip flopping around here a bit I can get back to working on the tabletop once I've got it out of the clamps I can clean up some of the glue squeeze out and cut it down to its final size [Music] I'm adding a small radius here to the top of the table and after removing the bulk of that radius with a handsaw I can take it across to the sander and just refine that curve foreign a round over to the bottom of the table top [Music] before I attach the drawer assembly to this tabletop I give everything in quicksand foreign [Music] and then moving my attention back again to the draw box assembly I can cut down these drawer slides and after making sure this was a nice fit in the actual drawer itself I can hand plane them down to the perfect thickness that white piece is just a thin scrap that I've cut as a spacer which helps me accurately and repeatably line up these drawer Runners on both sides wooden Runners are a little bit more of a fiddle to get a perfect fit but I think it's a bit more of a refined finish than having a mechanical Runner and once that's complete I can finally get on to attaching the legs and I'm just tracing a line around these legs here so I can measure in exactly half the distance of the thickness of the legs to drill some oversized screw holes and the reason I'm using screws is there's really no other way of attaching the legs to the drawer assembly there'll probably be a little bit of expansion and contraction in that side panel so I need to allow for that and threaded inserts would be slightly more ideal but they're too long to actually fit into the remaining thickness of the leg so screws are really the only option I'm pre-establishing the thread for these screws whilst I put the legs here as it's a lot easier to apply Torque from this position I'm using this right angle driver doodad and it's pretty hard to apply any torque so it's much easier if those screws have had their threads pre-established I'm using this core box router bit to create an indentation for the draw pull this is definitely the most stressful part of the whole build because any mistake here really flows onto the rest of the draw box assembly as I can't just replace the draw front if I make a mistake but thankfully it was all good I drilled a hole through this block at the drill press just to make sure it was straight and then used it as a guide for this hole in the front for the draw pull itself I'm using a piece of 10 mil brass Rod which I cut down to length and then I made my way through the Grits from 240 up to 400 800 1200 and then finished it off with this piece of leather charged with polishing compounds foreign and then I can just epoxy it into place [Music] after a few swaps of the hand plane this drawer now slides nicely and I can fix in this piece of plywood as the draw bottom [Music] after power sounding through all the Grits I like to come along and hand sand with the grain with 240 and then up to 320 I find that that just makes sure that there's no swell marks and no scratches now this is where that Notch that I cut in the back of the drawer is coming into play the drawers slid past that tab then twist it a little bit it just means as you pull the drawer it hits this tab and it can't fall out off camera I made a bottom shelf in the exact same way as I made the table top and attached it with screws to finish off this table I'm using hard wax oil I find the easiest method for me is to wipe it on leave it for a few minutes and then come along with a clean Rag and wipe it off and then give it a buff and ultimately this whole table gets two coats of oil [Music] and with that done the table's finished [Music] thank you foreign thanks for watching [Music] [Music]

Channel: Dylan Barfield Furniture

Views: 15,309

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Id: DeBJhFYcmSE

Length: 19min 8sec (1148 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 09 2023