Building a Machinists Belt Grinder - The Trilogy [Part 2]

hey everybody welcome back to part two of my belt Vanderbilt if you haven't watched part one yet you've missed all this stuff here so you might want to go back and watch that first so you know what's going on there's a link to that up here or in the description and for everybody else this is where we left off last time the mainframe of the grinder is finished as well as the base the tool arm and the belt tension in tracking assembly and today we're going to be making the parts for the flat platen as well as the drive wheel and all the police and also a few parts for the table system so let's jump right back into the build and the first part will be the main plate for the flat plate and assembly here this is made from the same big steel plate you saw on the beginning of part 1 so I'm starting the same way by first creating some straight edges for reference but this time I did things in a slightly different order and I faced the part in the beginning and then I marked all the cutting lines I am only cutting off the two outside corners for now because that way the part is going to be easier to hold in the vise and then I clean up those saw cuts on the middle again I don't really trust these digital angle finders especially those cheap ones but the angles and these edges aren't too critical so in this case it's a quick way of setting this up in the vise I know the part is sticking out quite a bit here and it looks a little sketchy but as long as I'm on the milling side-to-side and I don't take any deep cuts that actually works fine in this case time to drill some holes again if you are wondering why I chose to drill three mounting holes I just figured it wouldn't hurt to have a few different mounting options just in case and it only takes two extra minutes so why not the two Holtz and frontier or just to help me cut out that piece on the inside in the first video I cut an entire slot to do a similar cut and now you can see why that was actually unnecessary since I figured that two holes is really all I need to cut the rest out on the bandsaw now I'm cleaning up those cuts again and yes of course all this work could be avoided if I simply had this part laser cut or plasma cut by some company but then this entire segment of the video which is be me opening a cardboard box and taking out the finished part and that's not really the kind of video I want to make [Music] I also did another facing pass on one side with this motor face mill to improve the finish somewhat and chamfered some up the edges and here's the almost finished part because there's one feature missing here which is the correct slot for clamping I actually added that later because I thought I could get away without it you'll see that in the last video but for now let's call this done and move on to the next part which is their platen itself this part is super boring but one thing I want to mention is that I chose some pretty thick material for this for a reason because these plates can wear out over time and actually become slightly concave in the area where you grow out the most and having some extra thickness allows me to simply put this on the mill and face it to get it flat again if that ever becomes necessary of course you could also use something like hardened tool steel to make it last longer or even a glass platen like some people use but for now I'll just try this and see how it works out now let's make those two brackets these attach the platen to the plate and also allow for a good degree of adjustment making these from some trough millimeter angle iron and as always all phases get machined first this is another part that's very awkward to hold and device so I'm getting some shadow here or a little concern with that for these small parts you for cutting the slots I decided to try new method because it's always kind of a struggle so I removed most of the material first by drilling a bunch of holes and that way it's a bit easier on the end melts and it also helps with the chip removal you probably guessed it by now I made both brackets as one piece because it made this whole job much quicker easier and now that all operations are done I just cut these apart on the bandsaw and I end up with 2 twin parts now we can do a little bit of assembly again right now I'm just using this one big locking lever to attach the platform because I thought I could get away with just locking it in one place and it does actually work but you have to crank this down pretty hard to really be secure so as I mentioned earlier ventually that's a lot you see on most grinders but let's just ignore that for now okay next comes a big one we're finally gonna make the drive wheel this is actually made from two separate parts it's the wheel itself plus an adapter that connects through the motor shaft there's a few reasons why I went with this design one is that if I ever want to mount this on a different shaft for whatever reason I don't have to make a completely new wheel I would just need a new adapter which is much cheaper and easier to make another thing is that it allows me to use a shorter piece of stock for the drive wheel because it essentially bridges the gap between the motor and the wheel there's a few other reasons but it would take too long to go over all of them right now just know that you don't have to build it this way making it out of one piece would be totally fine here's that big chunk of aluminum this will be made from this is 200 millimeters in diameter and I didn't think about this until I had this in my shop but I realized it actually doesn't fit into my laser Chuck so I had to work around some limitations here but this car problem-solving is half the fun and machining since I can't put it on the lathe like this I started by drilling a central hole on the mill so that I can then screw it against the jaws and then I was able to turn down the site slightly just so that the lathe carriage would actually be able to fit under there because as you can see this thing is pretty much exactly the size limit of this machine that looks a bit scary but I would call that clearance luckily I bought this piece oversized and that allows me to now create this step to get it into a shape that I can hold in the Chuck when I flip it around and then later I'm going to face that side again and remove that so it was only there now to give me something to grab onto now I can start to face the other side and then it's just a lot of facing cuts to create that sort of deep dish shape that I decided on this shape is mostly for looks especially this inside chamfer year but by hollowing this out of [ __ ] I'm also reducing the weight of the wheel because it's going to be spinning pretty fast and the heavier it is the harder the VFD has to work to slow it down when you stop the machine that's one side done now and now I can flip it again and thanks to the bowl shape I can now just grab the inside surface using the truck and machine the other side that's that by created has to go now and I very much would have preferred to preserve this material somehow but due to the size and shape of this part I unfortunately couldn't just slice this off so I had to churn all of it into chips now I'm creating a similar shape on this side but this one is much trickier to machine because I can't just start the cut from the inside like last time so we have to plunge into this face for each cut I'm cutting the inside diameter for the adapter here now and then before removing it from the truck I turned down the outside once more as well and that way the ID and OD should end up concentric and yes I know by using the adapter method I'm introducing a bunch of potential errors anyway but trust me it's all gonna work out somehow now let's move on to that adapter unlike the wheel itself this will be made from steel I had to turn down the OD by a pretty significant amount and this was a pain in the butt because I got these super annoying stringy chips no matter what I did and don't grab these with your hands like I do who I heard it's bad practice on this part the OD and I need both have to have a very good tolerance if I wanted right wheel to run true and that's also one of the reasons I made this because if I mess up this part it would be way easier and cheaper to make a new one than if I had to scrap the entire wheel yeah I never trust my measuring so I'm using the motor itself here to double-check the fit before I remove this from the check now I need to make a keyway and for that I'm grinding a custom tool from some high speed steel I pretty much suck at this and I avoid it as much as I can I saw this approach here in the HTF and got a splinter video and it looked really easy when he did it but unsurprisingly mine turned out pretty ugly I had then put that into a collet Chuck and used the quill on the milling machine yes a makeshift shaper doing it this way takes forever especially on steel but I was actually pleasantly surprised that this worked at all and it was really the only feasible method I had for doing this I did have to do a little bit of convincing with some needle files but overall it doesn't look too bad and I ended up with a priest knock fit now both of the parts are finished to fit on the drive wheel ended up a little bit too big ideally this would have to be pressed in there but as far as the run-out goes I was happy with that ended up with around 200 so 4 millimeter that's about it now and I think more than adequate for a belt winner I'm not sure way that central bolt looks like it's not on center but I guess it'll remain a mystery so let's move on and make the trekking pulley this pulley is tapered on the outside by two degrees which should help to keep the belt on Sandra but to be honest I'm just doing this because everybody does some people also taper the drive wheel or even both but there seems to be a lot of controversy about this whole topic so for now I'm using the most common solution here you can see me cutting the tapers it could be bothered to set up the top slide again to turn both of these in one go so since I'm not overly concerned with concentricity in this case I just flip the part and then get the other side now this gets a custom axle that will fit nicely into those bearings I'm cutting a pretty big threat on here right now I'm not sure why I picked this thread size but as I was building this I eventually switched the other exits to smaller size because this is pretty overkill this isn't strictly necessary but I put some flat spots on there so that this part can be grabbed with a wrench to screw it in and they call it block this is held in here makes that a really quick and easy job eventually I will of course install this using the locknut but I didn't have the right one at the time so just imagine this one with a nylon insert now the platen police are up and these are almost just a tube with two bearing seats so there's not too much to say about these as you can see I made two more of these axles they're almost exactly like the one for the trekking pulley so I figured you don't want to see that again this time I'm installing this with the proper lock nuts and that way I can secure this just tight enough that nothing moves around but without squeezing the bearings and then it stays like that I'm starting on the table system which i think is my favorite part of this whole machine and the first part is this main clamping block that attaches to the tool arm [Applause] same stuff as usual here but now it gets interesting because I need to make that large-bore in the middle and a good fit is important here first I'm drilling this out and multiple steps and then actually started cruising the boring head but I could bored with that get it and decided it would be much quicker to do this on the lathe [Music] I'm going over this part pretty quick right now because there's a few more of these coming up and they're all pretty similar so this is just a quick overview and I'll explain a bit more about the process with the next ones this one is done now oh it's just missing one last thing which is these grub screw looking things with a spring-loaded ball I think these are also called spring plungers and they screw into those holes here and get secured with Loctite so that they keep their position you've probably already figured out what these are for and you'll see that in action in a few minutes but first I'm going to install this on the tool arm and then let's make the next part this small block is basically just a 90-degree connecting piece for two of these rods so those are not really going to be removed once this is assembled this time I drilled a small hole on the middle just as a starting point so that I can easily get on Center on the lathe using the tailstock and a life center attentive viewers will notice I'm still using the truck in a truck setup here because I still don't have a backlight for the afford your truck this method of clamping a block around some round part provides an extremely solid connection if it's done right but it does require a pretty tight fit between the two parts it still works with a bit of play but the friction that you want to create between the parts it drops pretty significantly even if you're off by a little bit but of course I still don't want a sliding fit so I don't have to force these in and out for the locking part of these it's always the same procedure at first real a smaller hole according to the threat size I want to cut then I use a slitting saw to create the gap that allows the clamp to open and close then I enlarge the hole on one side so that the screw can slip in and then on the other side I finally cut the thread that it's Grusin to and then on this side I cut a large threat and that's where the clamping rod for the table rolls Gruen and why not just make that now so you can see what I mean making this a screwed connection isn't really necessary this good for example be welded since it's effectively going to be one solid part later but welding is just too inaccurate for this due to potential distortion and by machining and screwing this in I can be much more confident that the connection ends up being square to the other parts and that's how these two go together like I said this is supposed to be a solid connection I'm again connecting these with some Loctite so nothing can shake loose now we are back over at the mill and I'm going to cut those round grooves and they're using a ball nose solid carbide end mill you've probably figured it out by now these are indexing grooves that the spring no the bolts you saw earlier will lock into which will make it possible to rotate these parts and fixed increments this one is from the table so it gets locking groups for 90 and 45 degrees and of course you could cut these at any angle you want to add even more locking positions but for me these two will do that part we just made interlocks with this next one and there's two reasons for that one is to provide a very solid default position where these are always locked in with each other at 90 degrees but the main reason is to get the table a bit lower because otherwise it wouldn't be able to build on far enough to reach the lowest point of the belt when the grinder reverse in horizontal mode same procedure as last time here this piece is a lot bigger though and the hole is also not on center and having heavy parts that are not balanced on a small lathe like mine can get pretty scary this is still a relatively small part but if I were to run the lathe at the wrong rpm like this I'm pretty certain I could get it to either walk around the shop or shake itself apart you can actually see the latest shaking a bit already but if I run it any slower my cutting speed is off by so much that I can't get a good finish right now I'm doing as many operations as I can while this thing is still in this shape because this way it's a bit easier to clamp and hold onto as opposed to that L shape it will end up in now I just have to do some small passes to finish up those surfaces and then I can test out the fit so this is an incomplete version of the part you saw me make earlier and I met these at the same time so that I can sneak up on the fit that you're seeing here where both of these parts interlock with each other at a right angle in both directions so that when the table is in its default position on either side it's always perfectly square with the plan just like before this gets another large threat which will accept the main clamping rod that slides into the tool arm and that's up next this one is even thicker than the other ones because it needs to carry a bit more weight so this is thirty millimeters solid stainless steel I chose stainless for all of these because they will be sliding in and out of these clamps a lot and stainless has a very hard surface but the downside of that is said it's kinda tricky to machine now it's time for some more of those grooves same procedures last time once I've joined the true parts I'm using the clamping block as a reference to set up the correct rotation on the rod it's pretty important that these grooves are cut at the correct depth if they are too shallow then the locking effect from the ball won't be very strong but if they're too deep and the ball doesn't fully engage in the groove locking position won't be accurate which kind of defeats the purpose of the saw design for this one I'm doing two positions at zero and 90 degrees and of course that's to help to keep the table parallel to the belt when its flipped into horizontal mode this thing was already installed in the previous shots but this time it's the final assembly using Loctite again you want this to be positioned so that the ball sticks out as far as possible without its housing coming into contact with the clamping rod and finally here's how that works in practice these rods can now slide into the clamping blocks and the spring-loaded bolts lock them into different positions but the nice thing is that you can still achieve any other position in between if you want so you can set the table up at any angle if that's needed but in the most used positions it just snaps into place and you just need to lock the clamp [Music] here's the part that sits between the table and the main clamping rod I skipped over that but it just has an additional rod clamp in there which also has two grooves at 0 and 180 degrees and that allows you to use the height adjustment or still keeping it square to the platen and you can also flip it around to the other side and that gives you even more flexibility to position the table and like all of these you can also lock it in any position in between so now let's mount the table on there and now I'm just kidding that doesn't exist yet okay I'm sorry about the cliffhanger but we almost at 40 minutes again so this will be the end of part two next time I'll actually make that table but even with all the major parts finished there's still a lot of finishing work to do as well as electronics and making some additional parts and modifications and of course you will finally see this thing in action and I will demonstrate all of the features in detail so stop by again and thanks for watching [Music] you

Channel: Phil Vandelay

Views: 633,922

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Id: q0KzSZVommY

Length: 37min 33sec (2253 seconds)

Published: Sun Jun 28 2020