Build The ULTIMATE Sharpening Station

welcome back to the shop today we're gonna be making this sharpening station out of African mahogany for the base bubinga for all the cleats and this cork rubber material or Kroeber for short that the stones set on the sharpening station features this pullout drawer and it's gonna hold your supplies what I have in here starting from the right are these sharpening stones or my water stones rather one thousand and eight thousand grit and you want to keep something between your stones so that you don't cross contaminate the coarse grits and all that I have this little foam pad that came with the stones or you could use something like a wax paper just make sure you have something in between those stones this right here is my coarse diamond plate and I use this for flattening and for flattening the water stones excuse me and I also use it for course work such as flattening the back of chisels and also the Charlesworth ruler trick for putting a tiny tiny back bevel on my plain arms you can't use this on chisels but you can on plain irons and it saves you a lot of time next I have the lead Nelson screwdriver that works with the honing guide no you don't need it but it's super super beautiful in my opinion it's really nice and but you don't need it you can just use a regular screwdriver but I figured for the money and I might as well get it well I purchase it's at the same time this is the Lee Nelson honing guide it came it's got the the jaws that ship with it on it but I did buy a couple extra set of jaws for planer sharpening I don't know why I keep saying planing sharpening small blades and also for sharpening narrow blades such as my eight to finish chisels so I did have to buy a couple sets of the jaws but they're they're really cheap twenty-five or thirty five dollars for each set and I've got plenty of room right here to expand the case I get a couple more jaws for skewed angles and skewed bevels and stuff and when I keep in the front is this eighth of an inch piece of brass it's used as a shim and I cut this on the CNC machine put a nice little hand plane design on it and it's used when you're setting your honing guide with these stops at the front so the Lee nose and god you set your blade at a certain distance from the front of the guy to determine the angle that you're going to be sharpening so starting at 20 degree and going all the way down to 50 degrees if you put this shim in here let's say this is a 25 degree stop so if you put a chisel in here then button up against the front of your sharpening station and if that protrudes enough to touch the front of this piece here that means it's going to be sharpening at 25 degrees if you put this eighth of an inch shim in there what that's going to do is bring that back and it's going to change the angle by about two to three degrees so if this is 25 but this in here you put that in front of your chisel or whatever you're sharpening and now you're sharpening at approximately 27 to 28 degrees so this is going to allow you to go in between each of these stops and again at 25 or 20 degrees 25 30 35 40 45 all the way to 50 degrees and to set these they Nelson gives you the specs but what I did was made this handy jig on the CNC machine you clamp it flush with the front of your sharpening station but these in there screw and you've got the exact location they need to be so I'm gonna have plans for the sharpening station and I'm also going to be selling this little guide here it's not going to be expensive maybe 10 bucks it's just gonna make it easy for you to set your distance you don't have to use this sharpening station you can use whatever design you want this is going to be handy for that for the lead Nielsen guide I doubt that work for the Eclipse honing guide even though they're pretty similar but this is useful for the Lee mills and God and I'm also gonna be selling these little brass shims yeah you can make it out of wood I just figured that you know with the design on it and it's exactly 1 I have an inch it's not gonna move it's brass so it's just a nice touch so I'm gonna have links down below for the plans for the sharpening station and also these two items the jig and the brass shim it's an awesome build let's go ahead and get started I'd like to thank our channel sponsor bits and bits company save 15% using coupon code simple code 15 on your next order the sharpening station is made out of African mahogany I grabbed a piece of 1/4 from the wood rack and then I break it down first at the miter saw and then I'll join one face and one edge the final dimensions for the top and the bottom panel or 12 inches square but the mahogany board obviously isn't wide enough which meant that I needed to resaw it in half and then edge glue up the pieces after reselling the piece I'll take it back to the jointer to flatten the face out and then run it through the planer to get it down to the half of an inch in thickness the boards are down through the final thickness so I could clean up the other edge at the table saw I've got both of these panels cut to 6 inches in width and the length is a little bit long I'll clean that up after the glue dries and so now I'm just gonna put a little bit of glue on the edges do a little rub joint and clamp it up when you're clamping thin panels like this try not to put too much pressure because sometimes you can warp it or twist it and just enough I've already got glue squeeze-out so it's doesn't need too much pressure and after about a couple of hours the glue dried so I took it out of the clamps and then using my number 4 I'll remove any mill marks and any glue squeeze-out that are dried on the surface I head back over to the chop saw and then I'll clean up one edge and then I'm actually gonna stack both of these together and to clean up the other side that just guarantees that they're both the same exact length and for some reason I'm less than 12 inches or more than 12 inches they're both going to be consistent the final two pieces to complete the box are the side panels and I cut those to 2 inches in width and then I cut them to 12 inches in length using the miter gauge with a stop block this ensures that all pieces are the same exact length and then it's back to the number four to smooth besides I normally don't use this smoother on all of my projects but I guess because the pieces are smaller and this was a hand told project maybe I just felt inspired and to break out the number four to smooth the surface gluing up the box is fairly straightforward and with a dab of CA glue you can knock it out quickly I applied glue to the bottom edge of the side panels and then I put a few drops of CA glue on the surface before putting the side panel in place the CA glue will set up in a minute or two so that means after that minute or two you can remove the clamps and then start to glue on the top the CA glue trick is fun for projects like this but overall I probably wouldn't use it on a piece of furniture as it may potentially interfere with the bonding of the wood glue but just a few drops on this 12 inch long piece is going to be fine so I'm gonna leave these in some clamps for probably the rest of the night because it's already late and I'm gonna start working on the front drawer so this is that third piece of wood that I cut the same time that I cut these pieces and it should be a snug fit but as you can see it's a little tight so I'm gonna have to take a few swipes with the hand plane to get this to fit and then I'm going to mark this to the piece to know the exact length that I had cut at the table saw met the writer table and I've got a rabbeting bit installed and it's going to make a half inch wide quarter inch deep graphic so that the drawer sides can be flush with the drawer fronts so it turns out after cutting the rabbit my side panels are just a little thicker than 1/2 of an inch so I'm just gonna hit it with my jointer plane to bring it down few swipes is all it's gonna take so we got about half of the joinery known for the drawer after the glue dries on this I'm gonna be pinning it but before we move on we need to cut these side pieces to length I'm gonna put this back in the cabinet mark those with the pencil take it over to the crosscut sled at the table saw cut those two lengths and then to install the back panel I'm gonna be putting a Tong on this back panel and a groove on the side panels in that way this will fasten in there with a tongue and groove and then finally what I'm gonna do is put a quarter inch bit in the router table so that I can route a quarter by quarter groove that is inset a quarter of an inch from the bottom edge and this is going to be for the bottom panel so let's get to work [Laughter] this is the rear piece that I cut a little bit shorter it's gonna stop at this groove and that way we can slide the back panel in after we glue the case up or the drawer rather so I'm gonna leave the front piece in place and these are some writing with clamps super handy for stuff like this if you're interested I'll leave a link in the video description but like I was saying earlier we're going to be pinning this to add some strength and what these clamps are you set it's as simple just sliding it back in place and it's good plant these together make sure it's flush at the top and you also gonna flip this over make sure that it's not gonna interfere with that groove now we can install the back panel very carefully and to install this I'm just gonna use a small brass now and that should be all that it needs I want to mention that I'm not concerned about wood movement on this and that's why I'm not cutting a slot is because this is a piece of quarter-inch plywood to reinforce the sides I've got a couple of combination squares set and this is so that I can mark both sides and make sure that they're in the same exact location I got this one set to a half of an inch and that's gonna give me the line for the top and the bottom and then this one is set to 3/8 of an inch so that I can mark the center line for this eighth of an inch bit and I'm gonna drill down to you know I don't know probably about this far I didn't do any measurements that's probably about an inch from the top edge and then I'm gonna just stick an eighth of an inch dowel in there glue it flush trim it and this is going to reinforce the side paste pieces so that when you pull on this it's not gonna pop the front up because there's not a whole lot of good glue surface on this so I'm at the part now where I need to lay out where each components gonna go and this is kind of what I'm thinking and I've just got a quarter inch sham in between that so I'm gonna have the waterstones here sitting on top of each other if I ever need the 8,000 grid I'm always grabbing the 1000 grid as well so that's not that big of a deal diamond plate and this ruler is gonna be going somewhere in here I'm probably going to be putting a little groove in one of these little stretchers and then just installing this on that and in between each of these components are going to be a quarter inch thick stretcher piece this is just the same african mahogany 1 inch wide quarter inch thick and whatever the length needs to be we'll figure that out shortly and what I'm going to do is take this down to a quarter of an inch and on each of these pieces right where I would go to grab something I'm gonna put a slight curve like I did on my little chisel cabinet here and I'm just gonna cut that at the bandsaw and then go over to the spindle sander and clean that up and that's just gonna allow me to quickly grab the piece and use it so that's what I had in mind for the layout of this and now I'm going to just go over here and start working on these stretcher pieces take them down to a quarter cut them to one inch in width and then put a curve on them [Music] to glue these in I'm gonna do it in a specific order I don't know if this is the best order but I'm gonna give this a go I'm going to start with the bottom piece and then move on to these pieces these two and then finally these two down here to hold the set of Jaws now to do this I'm just going to put a dab of CA glue on top of the wood glue and hopefully it won't take too long to set up and I'm going to wipe off a little bit of the squeeze out now because I won't really have access to it put a couple drops of CA glue real small drops in a few places and stick it in here and while this is setting up I'm gonna make sure that these aren't sticking just gonna lift up a little bit and again I'm going to take the old marking knife and clean up in and squeeze out I know this one goes here and on this one a mixture that's semi-square now I'm just going to make a mark on this one I just pull it out put glue on it and keep repeating it all the way over these are some shims that have been using these are eighth of an inch and that's kind of what I've been putting in between them the way it said so now the drawer can just keep on going and slide out the back so we're gonna need to install a couple of stops get the drawer position how you think looks best I'm going to go for a little inset this is probably an eighth of an inch at most this is the reveal that I like I just think it looks better than being flush with the front so I'm gonna leave it where it's at and very carefully slide it over or around and these are the bubinga pieces I'm gonna glue in place again using the CA glue wit glue trick nothing special it just helped it set up a whole lot faster now you wouldn't want to get a piece all the way across the back because we still need this panel to expand to contract so just a small piece on each side will do the trick wipe up and you squeeze out the final piece of the puzzle are these cleats these cleats at the top or 7 inches long 3/8 thick and 1/2 inch wide and they're gonna hold the stones in place these little cleats at the bottom are going to be lined up using this little template so that the honing guide will set the blade at a certain angle depending on the distance from the front edge of the sharpening station so the first thing we're going to install are these cleats and cleats back here are three-eighths of an inch back from the edge and I've already pre-drilled all of these and the species that I went with was a bubinga and I'm gonna put some CA glue on here to let it set up and then pre-drill and install a couple of brass screws and that since this is 3/8 of an inch thick I can kind of use it as a template or as a little guide whatever you want to call it oh one important dimension needs to be 1/2 inch from the edge there we go to set the bottom cleat it's pretty simple just use your sharpening stone give it about I don't know I've got about a sixteenth or 3/32 of space behind the stone just so that it's not super difficult to move the stone in and out and then I just used a square to make sure that the distance from the edge is still a half of an inch put some CA glue on it pre-drill and install one screw and now I'm gonna hold it and drill it for the other screw and the last piece are installing these little cleats and I made this little piece on the CNC machine here I'm gonna clamp this flush with the front Center it on the case and then install these with the glue and the screws and this is a look up close at that eighth inch brass shim that I mentioned at the beginning of the video so this right here is the cork rubber material often called cruller and I'm gonna be installing this right here so that it's going to protect the stones from slipping and plus it's going to protect the surface because any water that comes off the stones is going to land on here and I can wipe it up but to cut it I just made a template on the table saw a plywood template and then just cut it out using a box cutter to install this I'm just gonna put a little bit of two-part epoxy on the back of it and then put some weight on top I'm gonna try to keep it away from the edges so that I don't get too much squeezed out line it up with the edges and finally we can break all the edges just using the hand plane you don't want to break the front edge too much because that's a reference point for the honing guide but if you're not using that honing guide or you're using a different setup you can obviously break those edges as well the finish for this project I want something that's going to be real simple to repair because we're gonna be dealing with water and there could be some damage on the surface so I'm just using a shellac because it's super simple and easy to brush on another coat and fix any mistakes so I'm just going to use this seal coat straight from the can on the first coat and any subsequent coats I'm going to be thinning this fifty-fifty with denatured alcohol and to apply it I'm just using an ox hairbrush from party and I'm also going to get it down in the inside and try to get some on the dividers just to make it look good and again it's going to add a little bit of protection now in the case you'll notice I put some masking tape on the the crupper as they call it just let it get any on the surface the good thing about the shellac is I'm going to be able to get probably all three coats on today because it dries so fast every drawer needs a knob or some sort of finger pull and this one is going to be using a brew so hardware knob and so I just put in a Forstner bit I believe it was a half of an inch drill down the correct depth and then use some two-part epoxy to install the knob well hope you enjoyed the video I think the sharpening station is something that I've needed for quite a while I normally put my stones in the assembly table and if it's out of sight I find myself ignoring sharpening the chisels and they're dull and the plain irons are dull and it's just not fun you need to stay on top of that and if you do you don't have to go all the way back down to the aggressive stones you can just touch them up on a strop or on your finer stones and get back to work it's just way more enjoyable that way one thing I want to show you is how I connect or how I attach this rather or clamp it down to the workbench because it's obviously this is going to move what I have are these little bench dogs on the end and I just clamp it in here it doesn't take much pressure and now this is gonna be held still the reason why my bench is checking is because I got the casters up to move it away from the wall so that I can show you but what the casters down this thing just does not move at all with the casters up rather if you don't have a workbench with bench dogs or anything like that or you don't have an in vice or any vise all you have to do is put it on the edge of your table and take a couple clamps and just clamp it in this opening and that'll work just fine so I'll have plans for the for the sharpening station as well as the two jigs the jig for and that little brass shim if you're interested in checking those out my very next video is going to be me showing you how I sharpen chisels and plane irons and hopefully some method that you can pick up on it's real simple real quick and it'll be using this exact sharpening station so be on the lookout for that but yeah thanks for watching I'll see you in the next build video [Music]

Channel: SimpleCove

Views: 41,755

Keywords: custom furniture, hand tools, sharpening hand tools, woodworking, woodworking diy, diy, hand tool project, mahogany, hand plane, woodworking tools, simplecove, crubber

Id: iBskJa4M9Aw

Length: 23min 13sec (1393 seconds)

Published: Tue Nov 19 2019