G Gauge Garden Railway Loco : PS Models excellent offering

[Music] thank you [Music] thank you [Music] have you wondered how you could get into this Hobby in a way that is a bit more budget-friendly would you like to do garden railway modeling would you like to do something different to double load gauge modeling or o gauge or engage whatever you're doing if you want to do some garden railway modeling this is the way to get in there for 38 pounds plus Postage and Packaging you can build up one of these Locos I've had some fun I've added some little details to it but it's a wooden kit you can glue together with a little bit of PVA glue or glue or super clean you can have lots of fun painting it up making it look what I feel is great look at that fantastic piece of work I really do enjoy these types of kits simple but the most fun join me for this video to see how this came together and I hope that by the end of it you're as convinced as I am [Music] I picked this up it's from PS models and my dad put me onto these people they make budget Locos but for a different gauge you've seen that I do double O gauge this company makes Locos for garden railways and they don't cost too much not too much at all it's real nice kind of budget build your own logos you have some handwritten instructions that come with them it's an easy build from what I understand and it's laser cut you get plastic Wheels with a gearbox mainsar it's battery powered so you flicker switch and off it goes and you can have fun with it running around your leg um your garden railway you can build it in 32 and 45 millimeter as it says there that's just a spacing of the wheels for you to decide and that's defined by the chassis with the grooves we get out the wooden pieces here you will see wow there you go see we've got a 32 mil or 45 mil for your width I'll be building this at 45 mil so we can use some LGB track and we can have some fun and look at that platform nice and small and we can have some fun with this locate I want to paint it up in Great Western Railway Cutters and we can go from there so what I'm going to do is we're going to build this up we're going to work out what we have and uh yeah we're gonna have some fun as with any catch you need to follow the instructions and it starts off talking about fitting the bearings Which slot in really nicely and they're snug so they won't drop out but they're not difficult to go in later on you could put some grease on these but you can do that at the end I didn't actually do that so it might have quietened it down after that just using some wood glue I had some Gorilla Glue I put it on with a cocktail stick and any excess that I had I'd use you know cocktail stick something to kind of wipe it off if it seemed if it was too excessive but like you see here it's holding the motor in place so it'll be fine the main chassis sides that drop down drop them in and they go in one way you can fit it as a 32 millimeter chassis or 45 millimeter chassis it's up to you then you have spaces which are designated for either the 45 or the 32 they go over there it's nice and easy then you have the effectively the ends where the buffer or factory there's no buffer on this but you know the main piece that goes on is some PVA glue to hold that in place yeah we just pop it on there the nice thing about when you glue on wooden objects together with a decent wood glue that say is it goes together very quickly once it came together using a rotary tool I used a Dremel we cut the axle to the length that is specified this is probably the trickiest part it's not too hard if you're of an age that you shouldn't be using those tools speak to an adult about cutting them if you are an adult be careful you don't hurt yourself but you could use a hacksaw um an extremely strong pair of pliers I don't know but after that it's quite simple we get the gears and wheels we pop it together it's kind of very easy very meccano type kind of assembly kind of pressure fits on things to hold things together which is great it kind of makes everything that little bit more fun takes away the need to have um you know various screwdrivers and things once it is together you get some verniers or a ruler or a rule whichever one you want and you just measure it up and it tells you to have 42 millimeters between the flanges and that's it [Music] the motor access requires a little bit of fettling for the motor it's not going to go in how it is here and it says in there just to fine tune the fit once you get the right size you want drop it in then glue the motor in place with the right mesh then I put the cab on nice and simple as you can see it's a bit of wood glue in the right places pop it together just make sure these doors are square there's no keying in for the squareness of these doors that they could taper in um you could Square them off using the back parts of the cab but you don't you don't really need to if you can kind of eye it up but if you want to and you're a bit unsure you know pop it in place the area of getting a bit more technicality is the soldering there's some clear instructions on how to wire this it is simple it's an on off switch non-directional the hardest part of this is just to make sure it's going the right direction if it's not going the right direction you simply flip the polarity that soldiers onto the motor you have a black and red wire if it's on one way then swap around the other way you assemble the bits glue it in place just got to make sure there's enough room for the battery tray that goes underneath that holds the two AAA batteries I could have added a capacitor to Aid or smooth running and bits like that but I did it as per and actually ran really really well as you see I started the wires on as you would but I would try to make sure that they could tuck out the way afterwards because you will have a front cover going over this so you don't want excessive wire poking out into the wrong areas assembling the front cover which would have the bit represents the Grille and the sides it's nice and simple just like the other bits slots together really really well and is honestly uh it was a bit of a pleasure actually these are larger pieces this should happen this way but PVA glue holding it together means that we can get it together drop it in place and it looks great now we have the side detail that covers up parts of the wheels and the chassis that show what would have been the suspension on this HUD spell based Loco or Hudson based Loco sorry and the actual covers that would have got greased everything it's all there looks nice nice little details so we drop them in place clean off the excess glue because we're gonna see this when we're we're using it or might not and then just glue it in place just allowing the wheels to have float left and right otherwise they will rub on them on the 32 mil chassis you would have more room to put them all inboard by this one being the 45 mil chassis you have to make sure you fit them a little bit more outboard so there's like two and a half to three millimeters of room um to the outside of the chassis width and the inner frame or the outer frame so to speak so the buffer ends nice and simple these are three little pieces bigger bits in the middle pop it together slots in place and a bit of glue to go in there we can use these using bent bits of metal connecting up with the um the wagons and bits that you can buy all right go on our website check it out some of them are 32 millimeter only so have a look at that and so it depends what track you're using I'm using some old LGB track and that will do the job for me there's a cover that goes on the front of this Grille and the side piece of it that's a nice touch gives it a bit more if you want to you can add loads of details yourself my Edition was some small screws I actually used on my double a gauge Locos to hold this panel in place you could use some I don't know little bits of rods sticking out but fine you do get a small button size piece that could represent as the snorkel or the exhaust of the okay but I wanted to have a large piece of brass tube in here to act as a big exhaust I like doing my own thing and making my own Mark and things and I like it when you've got an oversized exhaust um come to my boy racer days as a lad um now I'm a bit older now but I can still enjoy a large exhaust on a little Loco that you can play with that in place I think that gives it quite an impression when you look at that I'm honestly thinking yeah maybe we have two of these I primed it in some high fill white primer just to kind of get rid of some of the Grain and then used by I think it's called black green by Vallejo just to represent the olive-ish color of the Great Western Railway I like using this it does a great job to represent the great best of every color and you need to do a couple of coats because it goes on quite light to begin with and you work your way over do the front cover as well as the rear cab page I put that in last just so we can get to the area on the inside when we want to spray the inner part of the cab oh I was trying to make sure that you don't put too much on so you don't get any dribbling I got away with um you know not not putting on too much but just a couple of thin coats that just naturally will give you a nice coat then using pale sand as I show here to do the inside of the cab I've masked off the areas of the green so that doesn't become pale sand if I wanted to use that to represent that creamy color that you see on the inside a great western Maui Locos it was quite nice to do that because I think it should have just paint it black but actually going to the pale sand it makes it stand out a bit more which is nice for me anyway so I don't regret that choice there's a short spit going around beautifully so then we use a black paint to finish off the rest we mask off all the bits that are important to us and being careful with the airbrush I worked my way around and do all the areas that will be black which mainly be all the side frames the wheels and everything else that isn't green or pale sand really the phantomere beans will be painted black so we also cover that up as well but this is that kind of really bringing it together part of it we you put the black over you know the A's butt areas because it kind of I don't know just highlights the other bits then there's the ends by carefully using my paintbrush before I change because I've been using the airbrush a bit here get my flat red from Vallejo and it does come out very matte once it's dry but we will be using some satin varnish afterwards to make it pop a bit more so don't worry about it going a bit dull have you painted it but it does look very bright and nice then just using a paintbrush very carefully to not then get the red area and use some black paint to cover all of the areas for the the coupling linkage I feel after this looking back at it I should have gone for some silver there help that pop out um same as the exhaust could have been silver but actually looking at it I think it's okay I painted the flooring area as well with some mixtures of woodish looking brown colors um so that kind of look nice as well then using some gold I detailed around the windows I felt that they needed to have something to make them pop out a bit morning the great western style you'd see a bit of gold here just being careful not to get to the green because I find it's very hard to get rid of the gold once you get it on top of the green but in the roof on it's a plastic card you need to cut it to size and then I shaped it a bit I'm just bending it around to get that curved angle and then using some super glue I sat that over the top and held it very patiently whilst it dried with the shaping it allows you to just focus on certain areas to put it down and then using a darker gray color one of my Vallejo colors just a dark gray you can do whatever you like it could be black I wanted to go gray just so not everything was black if it wasn't green or red or gold or pale sand so that was quite nice doing that I enjoy using the airbrush it's fun and you get that real uniform finish but if you can use a paintbrush just make sure you thin your paints down and do a couple of coats to finish it off I wanted to put some Great Western Railway transfers on I got these from Fox transfers these are gauge one transfers one to get the larger ones so that'd be perfect oh gauge would be a bit small and I'm really pleased I did I even denied on what size to go for transfer fitting you can see that in a number of videos that I've done but it says what you can see here you put it in water it releases from the paper and you put it on and it looks great just make sure you varnish everything afterwards so I gave this a brush off get rid of any of the fluff and then using some satin varnish I brought it down a little bit I'll do a couple of coats of a satin vanish again this is by Vallejo read it through the airbrush like I said thin down and I do a number of coats just so you don't get one that goes kind of quite white you don't do a thick coat of this so and also you get a bit more running and pooling and that's not very good just make sure if you see any bits of dust or hair going on it stop for a second brush it off come back but the beauty of it this is you can get that what looks like a smoother coat and also a protective coat when we're going to use it out and about as you've seen if you get dust and things on it won't key into the matte paint that's dry right there so putting it together after a nice paint up it's looking pretty good actually if I wanted to view it's going to be careful because you've added paint things that slot together as well so you can trim some areas you can see here's a bit more white where the tongue goes in so yeah I think that's looking pretty tidy giving it a spin round yeah I'm proud of this what more could we do well there's lots you could probably do but for this episode for this video we're talking about this Loco we're going to keep it simple and enjoy this foreign [Music] PS models they've done a great job I'm sure there's other manufacturers out there for kits that you can build I've seen various things on eBay that you can put together but my dad showed me these thank you Dad um and I've been really happy to build my first God of my way logo to go and enjoy what could I do with this in the future well if you really wanted to you could fill this up with some radio control equipment a small battery you could then have a receiver and a speed controller to power your motor and you could control it that way maybe there's Bluetooth controls you could put in even put sound in I'm sure you could that's something that we can learn about you can make maybe a slightly better chassis or you could buy them one of the ones that PS models do which is a 4x4 chassis say 4x4 and this one's one axle it'll be dual Drive you've got plastic bearings in there you could upgrade maybe to some metal bearings later on what do you want from the kit to have some fun because it's nice and simple and enjoy it or over complicate it or maybe that's for you to decide or I think that this needs to have is an additional figure that's 80 millimeters tall to sit inside so that's something I will be looking into and look forward to finding if you know of any send me some links anyway hope you've enjoyed this I've thoroughly enjoyed doing it big thank you to my patrons and channel members thank you to everyone that subscribes and leaves the comments that you do they keep these videos coming because those comments give me good motivation and hit that like button if you liked it anyway take care look after yourselves and goodbye [Music]

Channel: OO Neal

Views: 11,901

Keywords: Garden railway, Narrow gauge railway, Narrow gauge modelling, Steam engine, Sams trains, New junction, Lgb trains, Round house trains, Model steam engine, Model train, Model steam train, Train set, Budget model railways, Hornby magazine, Gardening, Kit building

Id: s_cfhsnB2no

Length: 17min 54sec (1074 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 07 2023