Bucyrus Rescue Part 1

okay request of threats of the family is my first video documentary of a recipe started in the first stages resurrecting a mid-1940s near syrustey green cable shovel or otherwise desires company was Cyrus and then in the 1920s it purged with Erie steam shovel company you sire is very all the way up into the mid nineties producing so [Music] some big [Music] [Music] although she is waiting patiently the owners bought the property with this shovel on it so they don't really know a lot about it apparently they need to get the property cleaned up so they wanted out it's obviously been sitting here for quite a long time I don't know if you can see there that tree is growing right into the side of the track and it's also growing into the side of the house this particular shovel is powered by straight six flathead buda engine buta engines were actually formed in the well the company Buda engine was formed in the late 1800s to support the railroad industry and then in the early 20th century they split into automotive and industrial equipment and interestingly later the automotive line was purchased by fairbanks-morse and the industrial line was purchased by allis-chalmers I believe in the 1950s and some of the first allis-chalmers tractors labeled as allis-chalmers diesels were actually Buda engines some fun facts for the day so one thing to keep in mind here you know any of us gear heads would get all excited and you know you want to just grip battery and pour the berries to her and see what will happen but it's really not a great idea with an old engine that's been sitting for an unknown period of time you really want to take your time and make sure that everything is ready to go so you don't end up more damage than you bargained for in the beginning I have already been here once and about a week ago I pulled all the spark plugs out of it and filled all the cylinders up with 5w30 synthetic oil good pa-o base synthetic oil has a lot better capillary properties than fossil oils do so consequently it's gonna wick better so you know it is more apt to crawl down around the the rings around the pistons or anything that may or may not be stuck so that's been soaking for a good week and then another thing that you want to watch out for is she's full of water and when I was here a week ago that was solid ice so something else too is you know if this thing I don't really know what the water level is if if it's frozen up and I go and crank the motor over and there's a block I you sitting on top of one of the valves I could bend a valve and some of these older engines to the oil pump actually sits down into the bottom of the pan and doesn't have you know like a pickup on it like a lot of modern engines do so water has a higher density than oil so it's going to sit to the bottom of the pan and then if it's frozen and I go and crank the motor over I could break the drive off the oil pump so we're gonna we're gonna throw a 300 watt oil pan heater on this and make sure that it's good and warm and maybe chuck a space heater outside of the manifold here and see if we can get the fluids out of it great Scot weren't we just inside the machine yeah we were but I'm an idiot and some friends showed up to help work on this project and I didn't take any video what we were doing so here we are a moment into the future and I'm gonna try to go over some of the things that we did through the course of the day to fill in the void on this first video and then we'll jump back into my time travel Jeep and go back to the present so yep alright so I had mentioned before about the 300 watt oil pan here this is it right here and some friends of mine it said they'd never seen one of these before I tell you if you live in the Northeast this thing will become your best friend it's pretty slick magnetic and what we did was just stuck it to the pan plugged it in we left it probably 15 minutes per side and we kept alternating it between the front of the pan and the back of the pan because if the pan was a solid block ice on the bottom we wanted to make sure with it we had all of it liquid before we dumped the oil and water out we probably cycled this back and forth for at least an hour and stuck a pan under there and got all the nasty gunk out we let it drain for Oh probably at least an hour to make sure that we had everything out that we could and filled her up with fresh 15:40 Rotella T oil these engines - you want to make sure that you're using the oil like Rotella is it's got a higher zinc content most modern oils don't have any zinc in them anymore and these engines with a flat tappet camshaft you need the zinc for the lubricant between the cam lobes and the lifters if you run a a modern none zdp oil it'll wear away at the bottoms of the lifters and damage the cam lobes another fun fact for the base so as far as the water and ice that we found the manifold all full of we did have a space heater sitting in here pointed at the manifold for the entire time that the oil pan heater was on the pan but we discovered after we got the oil out of it and had this magnetic oil pan heater there's a nice square block right here that the pan that the pan heater fits just perfect on so we slapped that on there and let that cook the manifold for at least another hour and then we got a siphon and siphoned out all the water that we could or the manifold there was a little bit left on the bottom but there really wasn't a lot that we could do about it trying to pull the manifold off out here was not really high on our list of desirable things to do because the likelihood of snapping a stud off was pretty high so the next phase of what we did was pull all the spark plugs back out again you recall that I had the cylinders filled up with synthetic oil soaking for about a week and then what we did was we put the crank in it and gave it a shove by hand and started a turnin it was a little reluctant at first which is really not surprising as it was full of water so there was some rust issues in there but it wasn't really locked right up it was just tight so we ran it around a few times with the with the crank by hand just made sure everything felt good until everything felt loose and free and then the next step was to chuck a battery in it with the spark plugs out and test the starter motor and see if she spun free so if you're working on old stuff one of these is an absolute essential and you can get the ones that have the wire brush on the inside and the outside but I find that they don't hold up very well and these will actually cut a small amount of material out of the end the terminal on the outside of the battery post I can't do it because I need both hands but shove it up in there matching the tapers and give her a twist and it'll skin out the the inside layer works really nice gives you a nice clean fresh surface to make contact with all right so we got an extra tractor battery here I gotta first always this is always nerve-racking because the first time you never really know what's gonna happen it's usually good to have a fire extinguisher on hand connection no sparks no draw that could be really good or really bad sometimes two will give the starter button a hit and see what happens all right here we go there's a starter button that was a beautiful sound I'll bore everybody with it but when we did this the first time we did spin the motor over quite a bit but the starter motor in in short spurts obviously you don't want to cook the starter motor but you want to spin it up a bit to get all the oil blown up out of the cylinders that was soaking in there so you don't hydro lock it when you try to actually start it and help the oil pump pull up Prime with the fresh oil that we put in there because god only knows when the last time it had actually had Prime was so that's always a good thing to do before you go in and try to fire something up you know you've got oil up in the means so the nice thing about a flathead is that you pull the spark plugs out and the valves are right there this one when we first turned it over several of the valves were stuck wide open the exhaust valves in particular and it's not really surprising whatsoever because the manifold was full of water so I'm sure that they had a lar rust around the stems it's not really advisable but if you're in a tight situation like this you can take a small drift pin go down through the plug hole and gently tap the valve and see if it shuts you do not want to tap it hard you could pretty easily Bend the head of the valve and then you'll never get a good seal on it but if you tap on it gently a lot of times if they're not terribly stuck you'll be able to tap them shut again and get them freed up that way especially after the cylinders have been soaking with oil so that's basically what we did we tapped them all shut we turned the motor over with the crank the manual crank by hand and any ones that were still hung open we soaked him up with oil gently tap them shut again rinse and repeat and by the third or fourth time they started functioning on their own as they should but there was some issues with crud in the cylinders obviously from all the rust and water and whatnot getting under the valves which was stopping them from seating well but we went through each of the cylinders and did a compression test after a lot of dinking around we managed to get about a hundred psi a compression on one hole 50 psi on another one maybe 50 psi and a third not great but better than nothing you'll see a some footage of that here shortly so the next piece of the puzzle is ignition so you can see we've got the distributor cap off here and the points this thing would focus here if you don't have spark 9 and 10 times it's corroded points especially with something that's been sitting forever and other times it's your condenser but again if you're gonna work on old stuff invest in a points file the best thing ever you'll be glad you have it and it's gonna be kind of difficult to do holding the camera in one hand but pretty basic separate the points they're spring-loaded slide your file down between them let the points close on the file and then work your file in and out a few times to scrape the crap off the points once you've done that a bit making sure to keep the file square to the contact faces then you just get a little bit of brake cleaner and give it a quick squirt to get the grown-up grunge off of there and then you want to check your gap so you turn your motor by hand until your points open and get a set of feeler gauges and your open gap typically should be in the vicinity of about 15,000 7-inch 20 will probably get you there but you don't really want to be any over that a lot of the old timers used to say the thickness of the cover of a matchbook so now the old-timers would take the cover of a matchbook and gap points with it in a pinch if they didn't have anything else well the last thing that I guess we'll talk about before we travel back in time is we put a jerrican in here so we're not pulling gunk or whatever unknown substances are in the fuel tank put some fresh fuel in there and went through the fuel pump and see if we could get it working we were able to get it primed up and it is moving fuel so that's good sign [Music] go ahead and still either stuck or stuff under the valve seat yeah they're all closing so [Music] Reza's trying to go but it keeps going back through the you [Music] [Music]

Channel: Tador Machines

Views: 31,466

Rating: 4.798058 out of 5

Keywords: Bucyrus, Bucyrus Erie, Cable Shovel, Shovel, Excavator, Steam Shovel, Bay City, North West, Linkbelt, Buda, Buda Engine, Drag Shovel, Drag Line, Crane, First start, antique, historic equipment, antique equipment, first run

Id: MoI-evqaN0U

Length: 19min 28sec (1168 seconds)

Published: Wed Feb 21 2018