[LIQUID HISSING] MICHAEL BRENNER: So we should start. So it's really a great pleasure
today to have the Voltaggio brothers. Clap. [APPLAUSE] It's really awesome. And as you see, they're going to
put on quite an exciting show. But before we start, we have a
couple of other items of business. And today actually, one of them
is here we have Professor Rob Lue, who's in charge of HarvardX. HarvardX is the online
version of Harvard. And it's one of our most important
sponsors in this entire venture. And so we're very grateful to you. And I just asked Rob, since he's here,
if he could say a few words to you. Rob. [APPLAUSE] ROBERT LUE: Thank you, Michael. It's really a rare moment in life
where you have so many favorites sort of come together in one room. And I think for me this is
one of those special moments. So science and cooking
has always been, I think, one of the paradigms for us truly
exploring the variety of places that learning can take place. Learning takes place in the classroom. But as all of you in this
room know, learning also takes place in the
kitchen, in the workplace, while you're on vacation,
at every moment of the day. So one of the issues that
HarvardX really tries to tackle is how can we create
greater opportunities for the world across every conceivable
platform, in every conceivable setting? So for us, it's been a great pleasure
to work so closely with Michael, Pia, and David on the
enormous sort of efforts that they have done in bringing
science and cooking to the world, but also bringing it to
Harvard students as well. So I think for us it
really represents one of those great examples
of the degree to which you can apply sort of learning in
a very wide range of settings and using a variety of approaches. So learning, I think, is one of those
things that we care deeply about. And I think Michael, Pia, and
David absolutely do that as well. As I think we'll see tonight, the
Voltaggio brothers do as well. But the other thing that I think is
incredibly powerful is creativity. And quite often when you think about
science, unfortunately many of us think of science as all facts
and figures and nothing else. But what we also know is that
science really depends on creativity. It depends on solving
problems under constraints and really trying to
think outside of the box. And I've had the privilege of
dining at both ink and VOLT, the two restaurants that
our master chefs represent. And I have to say because
I'm in California more often than I am in Maryland,
I've also had the privilege of eating the entire
ink menu, not at once, but over four sittings with friends. And so one thing that I can also
say is that both of these chefs really represent, not just great
cuisine, not just a great opportunity to learn, but as I
think we'll see tonight and as I've tasted personally,
that burst of creativity, that pushing of the envelope, that
surprise that always takes you to a different place and
changes how you view the world. So on behalf of HarvardX,
I'm truly honored and we're all honored to
be a part of this event. Thank you. [APPLAUSE] MICHAEL BRENNER: So
now what I'm supposed to do for the next several
minutes is talk about emulsions, which is the scientific
topic of tonight, that you will see before you in spades. In the Harvard class that accompanies
this lecture, we have a lab. Actually, the students did it last week. And the lab was basically
making mayonnaise and lime foam. And you will notice-- you all have
to clap-- this is our equation. [APPLAUSE] And you see we have this bizarre
tradition, when we have these equations and people clap. And it's that much humor in this. And so this is the lime
foam that is created. But what I want to talk
about is something else, which is that yesterday was Halloween. How many of you went trick or treating? AUDIENCE: It wasn't yesterday. MICHAEL BRENNER: Oh,
no, it wasn't yesterday. Recently, it was Halloween. So actually because it was
Halloween, if you go to CVS, you can buy this candy
very cheaply, which I did, in preparation for this event. And here I have candy. Now, is the candy a solid or a liquid? AUDIENCE: Solid. MICHAEL BRENNER: What
about if I pour it? AUDIENCE: Solid. MICHAEL BRENNER: Now, it's a liquid. So you see if I can do that
to it, now it's a liquid. It flows. Do you notice? But now it's a solid. OK. So I'm going someplace with
this, so marbles, packing. OK. Volume fraction, that was
the equation from last week. [APPLAUSE] So the volume fraction is what you do is
you take the total volume of the candy and you divide by the volume
of space that it occupies. Now, in this candy you see the
total volume that it occupies is not equal to the total volume of
the candy because there's gaps in it. There's air. There's free space. So have any of you ever entered to
count the jelly beans in a jar contest? So the reason that you
can't win-- well, there are several reasons
why it's hard to win. One is you have to know
the volume of the jar. You're not allowed to weigh the jar. If you weigh the jar
you could always win. Because you would weigh the jar
and then you would weigh the candy. And you would win. But you're not allowed to do that. And so what you have to do is estimate
how much free space there is in the jar because the jar is not
densely packed with candy. And it turns out there's
a rule of thumb that is very important in this regard,
which is that it turns out that if the candy were spheres,
they were spherical objects, then there's a number, which is
64%, which is the volume of space that the candy occupies. So 36% of it is free space. If it's M&Ms, then it
turns out it's about 70%. So somewhere around 30%
of it is free space. Now, this is very important
for tonight's lecture. I'm going to convince you guys of this. You don't have to believe me. But I'm going to try to convince them. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: We're with you. MICHAEL BRENNER: And
this is very important. And I want to basically
tell you about this. So the point is that when the volume
fraction is less than 64% or so, then it's a liquid. It flows. That's why when I did this-- [RATTLING] --it flowed. When it's 64% or bigger, than
it has an elastic modulus. It's a solid. So you can plot the elasticity
as a function of volume fraction. And there's a critical
volume fraction, which is 64%, where basically
the thing becomes a solid. And as you continue to compress it above
that, it becomes more and more stiff. The reason I'm telling you this
is that the physics of emulsions is exactly the same as what I just said. So what is the physics of emulsions? So now emulsions-- I mean we're going
to see lots of emulsions in front of us. I mean foams, cappuccino foam,
whipped cream, mayonnaise, aioli, these are things that people, you
all, many of us cook every day. And the way that you cook them is
that you take some elements, often oil and water or water and air,
with a little bit of chemical, stuff like that, and you put it
in a jar and you mix it very hard, which is presumably why you
guys have this Breville mixture here because you're going
to mix it very hard. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: That just
give away the whole thing. No surprises now. MICHAEL BRENNER: And notice
they've got this attachment. There's this thing which
basically is for whipping. So the question is why is it that
if you pour the stuff-- well, I don't know what you're
going to pour in there. But whatever it is, you're
going to mix something. And what's going to
happen is that they're going to make a foam or an emulsion. And if you were to take a picture
it under the microscope, what you would see is this. This is a picture of Hellmann's
mayonnaise under the microscope. And what it consists of is droplets. There are little droplets
of oil and water. Now, we have a microscope here. So we're prepared for your lecture. But can anyone tell me
what the volume fraction is of-- first of all, is
mayonnaise a solid or a liquid? AUDIENCE: It's a solid. MICHAEL BRENNER: It's a solid. I mean, it's not a very strong solid. I mean if you stood on, you'd crush it. I mean you can a paper clip
on top of it and it'll be OK. So it's sort of like a solid. And the reason that it's a solid is
because there are those droplets. Now, can anyone tell me what the
volume fraction is of those droplets? AUDIENCE: 64%. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: 64%. So you see. So it's the same as
the candy in the jar. So what you're trying to
do is pack things together. And by mixing your packing-- this is a
picture of aioli under the microscope. There are packings of little droplets. And you can have various
types of emulsions. There's oil and water emulsions,
where there's oil droplets and water. There's water and oil emulsions, in
which there's water droplets in oil. And there are various
questions one can ask. How do you make the droplets? Well, you're going to
watch droplets be made. When that machine turns on, you can
guarantee droplets are being made. It's actually amazing that it
makes them, that the thing works. Because the droplets are
pretty small actually. And you just turn the damn thing on
and then pretty soon thereafter you've got like 10 micron-sized droplets. And you can't even see them. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: That's
why your job's so easy. MICHAEL BRENNER: That's
why-- well, I can't do it. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Just turn your mic on. MICHAEL BRENNER: I mean,
in fact, what color is it? So if you notice that mayonnaise
is white-- has anyone noticed that? Have you guys noticed that? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Yeah. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Yeah. MICHAEL BRENNER: You
know why it's white? Does anybody know why
mayonnaise is white? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I've made it
yellow with saffron though too. MICHAEL BRENNER: Yeah. You can put coloring in
it and make it yellow. But does anybody know
why mayonnaise is white? Because you don't start out
with white substances, right? You start out with clear substances. It ends up being white. Why is it white? AUDIENCE: It bends the light. MICHAEL BRENNER: It bends the light. Do you know what the
wavelength of light is? AUDIENCE: You're the teacher. [LAUGHTER] MICHAEL BRENNER: Does anybody
know what the wavelength of the light in this room is? AUDIENCE: 400 to 700 nanometers. MICHAEL BRENNER: What's the unit? AUDIENCE: Nanometers. MICHAEL BRENNER: Well, nanometers
is-- sort of hundred of microns, sort of hundreds of nanometers. But the point is that it has
to be that big to bend light. So these droplets are
small to bend the light. And so they're sort of
micron-sized droplets. We'll see under the microscope,
a little bit bigger than that. So, OK, packings of droplets--
droplets, emulsion techniques. I'm giving away your lecture. Sorry. Droplets, moving-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I'm just a cook. MICHAEL BRENNER: You're cooking. Emulsions, droplets, I'm
just showing you pictures. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: We're
actually just cooking dinner. MICHAEL BRENNER: Surfactants,
droplets, mayonnaise-- mayonnaise, we had a mayonnaise making competition. This is cool. We asked people how much mayonnaise
could you make with a single egg? This was stealing an idea-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I used to win
that in my kitchens, by the way. MICHAEL BRENNER: Did you always win? How much did you make? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Oh, yes. I used to make a whole rib [INAUDIBLE]. I don't know if you
understand what that is. It's like a Cuisinart mixer. MICHAEL BRENNER: Yeah. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Yeah. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: He's cheating. He's using a machine. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: One [INAUDIBLE]. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: You
don't have to go to the gym. If you just make mayonnaise, you can-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I would throw--
I would throw-- I would cheat. I would throw xanthan gum in there. And I didn't tell anybody. MICHAEL BRENNER: And
an interesting question is how does that make it better? But anyway, there are
too many questions. I've said enough. You all know about emulsions now. I present you the Voltaggio brothers. [APPLAUSE] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Normally, I think
everyone usually thanks Harvard for inviting them. It's a huge honor. It is for us. But we want to thank the long list
of people that weren't available to speak here tonight so that we
actually got to come and do this. So thank you for those guys that are-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Not showing up. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Those ladies
and gentlemen that are busy. Good evening, Harvard. I never thought I'd say that. [LAUGHTER] My mom never thought
I'd say that either. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I never
thought you'd say that either. [LAUGHTER] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I didn't have
to apply or pay for it either. So that's good. We're going to try and do a
whole six course tasting menu in however much time you say we have. How much time do we have? An hour. So if somebody wants to
volunteer and tell us? Because we'll get lost in this and then
you guys will be here until tomorrow. So we want to make sure that
this-- you'll let us know. OK. So the first dish is going to be a foam. To me, a foam in scientific
terms in the kitchen means a fancy word that you can use for
a sauce and charge more money for it. It's called a foam,
easily five more dollars. That's the science behind it for us. So it's actually math. This isn't a math lecture. No. OK. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Economics. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: It's not. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Economics. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Wrong class. You guys are in the wrong class Yeah. How to take yogurt and turn
it into a lot of money. [LAUGHTER] For us, a foam, I think the
easiest way to understand it is trapping a gas
inside a liquid or a solid. So inside this thing is some yogurt,
some buttermilk, some roasted garlic, and a little bit of salt.
And then this is NO2. You put that in, the gas goes in. And then when we shake it up and
put it out, you get the foam. And so you're saying, well,
why would you do that? Why would you do that
for this cucumber salad? This dish is based on a tzatziki,
a normal dish of cucumber, yogurt, usually some lemon, some zaatar,
a delicious dish, one of my favorites. But we take dishes like
that and we try and add a little bit of that creative
process or creativity to it and figure out a way to
make it a little bit more unique, a little bit different. And so with this one, we're
adding the NO2, creating the foam. And that wasn't going
to be the end of it. And then we have to freeze everything. I mean now this stuff
is available to us too. So this is at Whole Foods I
think, in the frozen food section. You can buy liquid nitrogen.
And so if you take yogurt and you just drop it in
to the nitrogen, it's going to freeze and
turn into an ice cube. And then when you put it into your
mouth, it's going to crack your teeth. And then that yogurt that you charged
all that money for, you're now going to get sued, to pay somebody
back for the tooth that you just broke. So it's actually not
a good way to do that. And so we had to figure
out a way to not get sued when we put frozen
yogurt in front of people, without cracking their teeth. And so we add the gas to it. It turned it into a foam. We're going to extract the
foam into the nitrogen. And that's going to be the
dressing for the cucumber salad. So the rest of it is pretty basic. We've got some cucumbers here. Been vacuum packed to kind of take
some of that atmosphere out of it. Is that pretty accurate? Take some of the atmosphere
out of it, or not. It sounded fancy, right? So this is just a cucumber
that's been vacuum packed with a little bit of its own juice. I'm going to cut it up. This is oblique. Did you know that word, oblique? [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Well, the cool thing
is when you compress the cucumber, it changes the structure of it. It actually gives it
a different texture. It's not as crisp. But it actually has-- it's still crisp. But it still has a chew. And it's actually really delicious. It compresses the cell
walls of the vegetable and actually almost juices itself. When you cut into it, it starts
to kind of ooze out a little bit. And so it just tastes more
like cucumber somehow. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I
think it just looks cool. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: It looks cool too. It changes the color. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Yeah. Who's ever seen a cucumber
that looks this color? Don't look at the shape. [LAUGHTER] This-- come on. This is Harvard. So there's lemon oil inside the
bowl, a little bit of lemon juice. We're going to add some
acid to it, to season it. A little bit of salt over
here, I've got some flake salt. And again, this is just a
basic, simple cucumber salad you can make at home if you've got
liquid nitrogen, and NO2, and all that stuff sitting
around in the cabinet, and a really great description
of what emulsions and foams are. If you have that too in your head,
then you can put this together at home. So these are our cucumbers. It's seasoned a little bit of lemon
oil, some lemon juice, some salt, and some zaatar. So it's got that Middle Eastern
sort of flavor going on. And then I'm going to put a couple
of these into a bowl, like this. This bowl I actually made
in the back with some clay that we took out of the
ground, underneath the school. Oh, we went away to Williams-Somoma
and actually bought then. And then here, I've got
some charred shallots. And these are just shallots that I stuck
onto a cast iron pan, charred slightly. And then basically just vacuum packed
them with a little bit of vinegar. And so it's like a quick pickle. Do you know this word, quickle? Have you heard that? [LAUGHTER] No. This is a quickle. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: It's Webster's
2016 word of the year. [LAUGHTER] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: And so
if you look up quickle, you might not find it anywhere. And the last thing is our foam. So the foam, like I said, I've got
nitrogen here, liquid nitrogen here. And so basically because-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Oop, my fault. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: A
little bit more salt. You know, the foam, the gas that's
been trapped inside the liquid or the solid-- in this case,
it's yogurt, buttermilk, a little bit of lemon juice,
some salt, some roasted garlic. We're going to extract
it into the nitrogen so that it's airy and light and fluffy. So that when we put it
onto the plate, it's not just frozen ice cubes of
yogurt that break your teeth. And I get sued and I don't get invited
back to talk about food at Harvard anymore. So basically, right
here we've got our foam. We'll just do this. We're going to get a little
bit more air into it. How much of that is on my face already? Not much. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Oh, just a little bit. Here, let me get you. There you go. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Do we get in
trouble if we make a mess up here? We can do whatever we want? Really? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: No. No, no, no, no. I already know where that's going. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO:
You'll see [INAUDIBLE]. [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I've
done this way too much. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Oh,
you'll get in trouble. Did you watch Gallagher, the comedian? The front row-- I had this
conversation with him earlier. He made everyone wear trash bags
in the front row for his show because he was always
exploding stuff [INAUDIBLE]. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Don't
shoot them with your foam. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: The only problem
no one brought trash bags tonight. AUDIENCE: [INAUDIBLE] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: So as
you can see, that's a foam. And so I did my job. I can leave. You see, I made a foam. [LAUGHTER] MICHAEL BRENNER: I can't wait. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: There's
a foam right there. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Do you want
to put that on a microscope? Well, not in that bowl. Here, I'll get a spoon for you. MICHAEL BRENNER: Here we-- MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: While they're
doing the unimportant stuff-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Here-- MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: --I'm
going to finish my dish. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I'll come around. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: So
we're still on the air. We're not paying attention to them. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: You got it? OK. MICHAEL BRENNER: This is so great. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Is that even
calibrated, that microscope over there? Do you calibrate microscopes? MICHAEL BRENNER: Absolutely. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: OK. So now the foam is in
the nitrogen. There's gas trapped inside of
that liquid or solid. And so now I can just break that up. [CHOPPING] And it's a lot lighter than just if
I were to put the yogurt straight in, right out of the container. And so then you end up with rocks that
are edible because the air is-- right? Am I pretty close? MICHAEL BRENNER: Yeah. You're good. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: And so I'm going
to break them up, take these rocks. Bryan, you're very quiet tonight. What's going on? Usually you're, like,
critiquing me by now. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I'll
save that for later. We got a lot of courses left. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: And then
I've got some fresh-- I know we're not doing too well on time. I just took up half the-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Oh, we're good. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Some fresh mint. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I'm
going to step ahead, chef. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I've got some dill. I've got some parsley. Why is everybody so quiet? [LAUGHTER] Is that good when people
aren't talking in class. I mean if you're teacher and everybody--
that means they're listening. MICHAEL BRENNER: Yeah. They're listening. They're fascinated by what you're doing. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I'm
fascinated by what I'm doing. These are cucumber flowers. We call them cuke blooms in
the street, just so you know. [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: The mystery. [LAUGHTER] Yes. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Mom, I'm
embarrassing you at Harvard. And was that everything? Yeah. I mean it's like a tzatziki. It's cucumbers. It's a frozen yogurt and garlic
tzatziki foam and some cuke flowers, cuke blooms in the street,
some dill, some fresh mint, a little bit of parsley. And again, I mean it's
just a cucumber salad. But that's the first dish. So we've got a couple
more, a couple more to go. [LAUGHTER] MICHAEL BRENNER: So we
should show-- so now look, here's your foam under the microscope. Watch. Did you see that? It's a bubble. AUDIENCE: [INAUDIBLE] MICHAEL BRENNER: Yeah. It's sort of a thick foam. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: That's
what it's supposed to be. Yeah. That's exactly what it's
supposed to look like. MICHAEL BRENNER: But you can see. [LAUGHTER] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I was going for that. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: So I'm going
to jump into the next dish. And actually before we get started,
I think it might be curious. I have a broken emulsion here. So I'm going to start
with a broken one and then try to repair it and see if it works. So I was wondering if you
want to take maybe some of-- MICHAEL BRENNER: Yeah. We want some emulsion. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: --this and
put it on-- I don't know what the-- is that the Petri dish, right? MICHAEL BRENNER: Just a little bit. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I know
it doesn't look like food. But it tastes it tastes like food. It does. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: And it might
be difficult to get that. Oh, I think you got both. MICHAEL BRENNER: [INAUDIBLE] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: We'll just see. Because then I guess you could
tell if I do my job or not. So the next dish is-- I
think I'm going to talk a little bit about my childhood. When I was growing up, I used
to love oatmeal in the morning. But I used to take oatmeal and
pour brown sugar, and more sugar, and cinnamon, and all the things
that are really not good for you. And just put more and more
and more of it on there. I liked it really sweet. So obviously, when you're a child,
you're craving carbohydrates and sugar. And as I grew up, I still love that idea
of that really luxurious porridge that was luxurious to me when I was a child. But then as I got older, I
wanted something super-savory. So I made the complete opposite of that. So this is a very savory porridge, made
with mushrooms, and kombu, and soy, and all of those things. Do you need some more? MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Yeah. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: This
is definitely broken. You can tell by looking at it. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Do you
guys all know each other? Everyone is just-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: There you go. It's horrible. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Cambridge
is a small town, huh? Everyone just-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: So to get to camera,
right, I need to move over here. So in here, what I have in the porridge
is some shiitake mushrooms; again, some steel-cut oats. It's been pressure cooked
with some milk too, as well. Just to crack the grain and to make it
like a really great savory porridge. And that's part's been done. And it takes about 18
minutes in a pressure cooker to make the whole thing. And then basically that part is it. So my breakfast takes a
little bit longer now. I can't do it with quick oats. Then what I have here
is we have an emulsion that we make with yeast, beer, lemon. And then we use two hydrocolloids to
actually help emulsify and stabilize a sauce. And what it is is we take brown
butter and we start with that first. And we roast yeast
because I love the aroma and the flavor of fresh baked bread. And yeast is something that
obviously plays a big part in that. But as a sauce, it's
compatible with beer. Because beer, obviously
fermentation and the yeast that's developed in the beer process. By taking cake yeast or soft yeast
and roasting that in the butter, it just really helps
to accent the sauce. Now, it's naturally starting
to come together on its own because actually it will
emulsify on its own. MICHAEL BRENNER: Look. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Oh, that's
completely broken, right? MICHAEL BRENNER: Oh, his is
way cooler looking than mine. [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: So now
what I'm going to do is-- MICHAEL BRENNER: And he's [INAUDIBLE]. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I know. I came prepared, chef. MICHAEL BRENNER: There's even
an arrow in the middle of it. AUDIENCE: Is there really? MICHAEL BRENNER: How did you do that? [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Oh, I
placed that in the bottom. Yeah. And so over here I have soy lecithin,
which works as not only an emulsifier, but also it helps suspend air. OK. So I want to make bubbles. I want to create bubbles in my sauce. But I also have xanthan
gum too because I want to thicken it slightly so I
have a better viscosity in the sauce. So that way I can get a great
mouth feel and a finish. So I'm going to try to hold this
with my belly and then-- oh. [GRINDING] And then I'm going to use the
immersion blender to help emulsify the hydrocolloids into the sauce. Right now, you can't
see this, right, at all. So I need to maybe come to here. Can we see this? AUDIENCE: Yeah. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: OK. There we go. So now you can see
it's becoming a thicker sauce as the xantham gum is starting
to bring the emulsion together. Obviously, the agitation is also
helping in the emulsion too as well. And I'm creating little bubbles. [GRINDING] And then that's going to
be almost mayonnaise-like. So I'm going to add a little bit
of stock to that just to thin it a little bit. There we go. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I'm just
doing dishes, cleaning up. [GRINDING] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: There we go. OK. So the emulsion is all together now. And I'm going to start to plate
because what I'm going to do is I want to froth this right before
I plate it because obviously it needs to look good when
it goes out to the table. So I want to have this bubble
suspended in the sauce. So it's more of an a la minute finish
that we do it at the restaurant. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: That
means at the minute. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: At the minute. [LAUGHTER] I also have some mushrooms too. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Speaking,
today is his French class too. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: So
originally what I do is I cook the mushrooms en
papillote, which means in paper. And it's a classic French
cooking term that's used to describe just putting a
bunch of things into some paper, rolling it up, and
putting it into the oven. I don't have an oven here today. So what we did is we just
preroasted some mushrooms. And I'm going to warm up
lightly with some butter. And then we'll place it over the top. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: So
this is that cheating. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: It's called cheating. Yes. [LAUGHTER] You see, I cheated. You see there, I cooked. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Man, look
at the paper and the way it's like it's popped in the oven. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: It's beautiful, right? MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: En papillote,
we could say in the papillote. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: In the papillote, yes. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: No. You guys laughed. So I mean-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: OK. So I'm going to come over here and
place some of the porridge right in the middle of the plate. I have enough for the
entire crowd it looks like. Some more butter, some pepper. We'll add a little stock here and we'll
make a quick emulsion or pan sauce. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: No. I read a little bit
today about emulsions obviously because I was
coming here to talk about it. And milk, milk is an emulsion. Did you know when you drink milk,
you're drinking an emulsion? I thought that was pretty cool. I just thought it was milk. So every time I'm going to have it now,
I'm going to have a glass of emulsion every time. Like, yeah, I'm going to have
a cold glass of emulsion. Put some emulsion on your
cereal, chocolate emulsion. I mean, think of all the things
you could-- milk, it's an emulsion. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I cooked the oats
with an emulsion, right, with milk. So placing some of the
mushrooms over the top. It does look a little bit-- the
presentation is a little bit greater coming to the table
and cutting the paper. So I do apologize about that part. In fact, there's now-- MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: You're acting
like there's 300 people watching you. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I know. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I
think it looks amazing. [GRINDING] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Some more water. Right there, yup. [GRINDING] There we go. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO:
While he's doing that, I didn't have any-- I
haven't had dinner yet. So I'm just going to-- can
you guys smell this out there? You can, right? It's really good. [LAUGHTER] Here. Wait. Are you guys hungry? It's like dinner time right now, right? And you're here, sitting down,
watching us cook, and smell our-- yeah. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: It's not fair. So this is savory oats,
with roasted wild mushrooms, an emulsion of beer, and yeast, and
butter, and some tatsoi over the top. And then that's it, as simple as that. [APPLAUSE] Now, you want to put some of the sauce
on-- I mean we'll see if I did my job. MICHAEL BRENNER: I admire the bubbles. We could try to put it under. But you can see the bubbles. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Yeah. We don't need a microscope. MICHAEL BRENNER: We don't
even need a microscope yet. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Good. Because if I did it wrong,
I don't want to get-- MICHAEL BRENNER: I don't we're
going to be able to see through it because it's too thick. But you can see them. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Well, I can actually-- MICHAEL BRENNER: Do you want to see it? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Let us see. MICHAEL BRENNER: Oh,
they want to see it. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I'm curious. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Wait. [LAUGHTER] Oh, yeah. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: We can see that? MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Oh, they're huge. [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Perfect. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I
brought my own microscope. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Hey, it worked. All right. [APPLAUSE] Did you see that? I made bubbles. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: He made an emulsion. [APPLAUSE] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Yeah. Yeah. I am good at what I do. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: When
you learn how to do that? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I had no idea. Thank you, Harvard. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I
got them to eat my meal. They ate my meal faster. They should put it up
on that [INAUDIBLE]. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: The hastags are going
be like-- oh, they're going to be good. They're going to be good. I can make bubbles. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: All right. Are we-- we're still cooking. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Yes, we are. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: And they're
still watching us cook. OK. The next dish. We do a dish at the
restaurant, egg yolk gnocchi. It's a gnocchi without starch. Everyone's gluten free now. So we needed to solve that problem. And in LA, they pretty much
don't eat anything anyway. We're working on a water gnocchi. But no one thinks that sounds delicious. So for now, it's egg yolk gnocchi. So I've got here in
this bag-- temperature for us is something
that I think is crucial, understanding how different temperatures
work with different foods and things like that. And so in this bag, we've got egg yolks. They've been cooked at 67
degrees Celsius for an hour and then blended with some olive oil. The olive oil is emulsified into it. And the only thing that's inside of this
is actually egg yolks and olive oil. So it's been cooked and then
blended into, like, a pudding. And that sounds good. I mean that's actually
what we made first. And so that was the basis for, like,
a Bearnaise sauce or something. I thought I was cool. And I was spreading, like, all
this yellow stuff onto a plate and putting pickled shallots
and tarragon on top of it. And again, calling it Bearnaise
and charging a lot of money for it. And so I wanted to
figure out how I could charge more money for the egg yolks. [LAUGHTER] Eggs are expensive. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Six cents. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: So we
made gnocchi out of it. And basically what we've
got here is, like I said, the egg yolks and the olive oil. I've got a pot of boiling water. And I'm going to get
to that in a second. But the sauce-- we're
in Massachusetts, right? I was going to say Maine
because it's lobster. But lobster in Massachusetts, it's
popular here because it's delicious. And so I wanted to add
lobster to the dish. And then for me, lobster and drawn
butter, those two things like that's like peanut butter and
jelly or Brian and Michael. Like those things just go together. We're more like an emulsion. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Yeah. We're an emulsion. [LAUGHTER] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Two things that
don't belong together that are just-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Best. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: --together. Yeah. Thanks mom. This guy-- all right. So normally with stocks
or sauces, you have to reduce the sauces to be able
to emulsify the fat into it. Sometimes you have to
play with the temperature, add a little bit of cold cream to it,
get it down, or find that sweet spot to get a perfect emulsion. Now, by using xanthan gum, we can cheat. And so basically this power-- what
do you call it, a polysaccharide? Am I saying that
correctly, polysaccharide? It's a polysaccharide. It's a powdered form. And when it's hydrated,
it turns into like a gum. And so that gum enables us
to stabilize the emulsion. Therefore, we can do things. For instance, make a beurre
monte, basically emulsified butter that we hold above the line and service. And so that every time you
order something from us, we soak it in butter
before we serve it to you. And so the butter will usually
break halfway through the service. And then the chef comes by. He starts yelling at you. And so we found a way
to do it by stabilizing the emulsion with xanthan gum. And so this is a
concentrated lobster stock. If you want the recipe-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Who'd you
serve your cucumber to? MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: [INAUDIBLE]. I don't know. We'll write a book, or no. But it's-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Who did
you serve your cucumber to? MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I gave it away. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Yeah. Somebody wants my dish. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Roasted lobster-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I don't
have a spoon though. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: This
is roasted lobster shells. We've started making all of
our stocks in pressure cookers. We get a lot of the clean flavor
out of the shells faster that way. It's a purer flavor. But now, instead of
having to reduce this-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I don't have a spoon. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: --oh, Bryan's
playing, trying to make friends. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: [INAUDIBLE]. OK. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: He
handed a dirty spoon out because somebody
used the spoon water. I'm going to take that same-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: There's one in back. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: --immersion
blender that Bryan was using. [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: It's clean. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO:
Bryan, this is Harvard. Is this on low? Because if I turn this on
and it explodes, [INAUDIBLE]. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Yeah. I sabotaged you. It's on high. I'm just kidding. [GRINDING] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Does it
go-- man, this thing is-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: They're
actually annoying. Let me assist here. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: So you just-- if you
can just-- see what I'm doing, do that. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Yes. I got that. Like that. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I'm going
to create a little vortex. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Actually,
you have to lose a lower one. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: How did
you turn it down like that? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: You
use the other button. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: So the xanthan-- [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: So you want
to create a vortex in there so the hydrocolloid actually
goes down and the power goes down into the emulsion, so none of it sticks
to the side of the immersion blender. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Wow. That's-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Because that
happens and it won't work. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Is
this your dish or my dish? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: This is our dish, chef. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: All right. So while Bryan's stealing
my ideas over here. So-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: See. Some of it didn't get in. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: So as you can
see, the stock now is thicker. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: It's
coating the blender. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: And so it's
going to be a lot easier for me to make the emulsion. I don't need to reduce
it, reduce it, reduce it. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Let me clean this. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: And
so even in the old days, you had to sit there and like do a
like a tablespoon of butter at a time. And stand over it and do this. And it took forever. And then if it didn't work, it broke. You got yelled at. And then the whole
thing was just horrible. And so we figured out a way
to just sort of eliminate that part of it by-- xanthan gum
is like-- it's like baby's tears. I don't know. They're something like-- [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: What? MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: It's like a gift. [LAUGHTER] I don't know it's just like something
so-- not that baby tears are-- No, that's horrible. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: There. It's one of those hashtags I was
talking about earlier, right? Hastag, baby tears. Let me put that up. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: And
as you can see, I'm pretty sure if you put
this on the microscope that emulsion is going to be way
more stable than Bryan's and have a much bigger airplane arrow thing
in the middle of it than Bryan's did. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Oh, yeah? MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: So are you
going to hit me with that? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: No. [LAUGHTER] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: So I've got my
lobster butter emulsion right there. I'm going to add this lobster meat. I just blanched it lightly. I'm going to warm it
up inside the sauce. And then the next thing is the gnocchi. So, like I said, I've got
my egg yolks in olive oil. And when I was making that Bearnaise
sauce or the Hollandaise sauce on the plate, we cleaned the
spatula off one night with hot water to make the next dish. And all of a sudden, it got hard
on the outside of the spatula. And the first thing I did was
get upset because I'm like, I need the spatula right now. And the guy's cleaning it. And the egg is just
sticking to the outside. And I'm like, wait a second. He's heating it. It's overcooking it more. And now it's sticking to the spatula. Go get me a pastry bag, and a
tip, and a pot of boiling water. He goes. And this is how a lot of
the creativity happens. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: By accident. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Then
by accident, I came up with this thing, which is just our
egg yolk-- is that on the-- can you? Oh, man, that's terrible. That's really embarrassing. They can't see what I'm doing. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Ah,
yeah, we can do that. Just give me one second. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: So just pretend like
you're seeing it turning into like-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: We can move this in. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: No. No. I'll take it over there
and show them after. They'll believe me. It'll will be finished. Trust me. And so basically the egg
yolks, now what I'm doing is just overcooking the outside
of it and leaving the inside of it like that nice kind of pudding texture. And that's going to be my gnocchi. And so it's just egg yolks--
again, egg yolks and olive oil. We're going to-- these look pretty good. I know you can't see it. Except that one doesn't look good. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: No. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: So
that's going to get hot. I've got my bowl here,
all this pretty stuff. These are sea beans, very good. Have you ever had a sea bean? Best thing in the world,
it just taste like-- what do you think it tastes like? AUDIENCE: Salt. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: It tastes
like salt. It's the best thing. And so these gnocchis
have like another minute. And like this sauce over here, the
thing about the xanthan gum stabilizing the emulsion is that if it gets hot
and it starts to fall apart again, you can just bring it
back together again. Because again, we've stabilized it. You're not just relying
on the temperature and getting that perfect marriage
of fat going into the liquid and trying to do--
you're not doing this. Because it's already
stuck together like this. So then when it starts like, oh, we
don't want to be together anymore, you just kind of heat it up
and blend it back together. And it just goes back like. And it's an amazing thing. I'm going to get our lobster. I brought some tweezers. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Over here. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Do you
guys eat lobster here or no? A little bit. So these are ready. And you can see it works. It did work. OK, I was nervous because
if it didn't work, I'm was going to blame it on Bryan. And that would have
been awkward for him. [LAUGHTER] And like the sauce is
getting pretty hot. I'm going to take it
over-- how are we on time? Bryan, we have 15 minutes. MICHAEL BRENNER: You have half an hour. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Half an hour. How come you didn't put my-- Yeah. Why didn't you-- MICHAEL BRENNER: We
want some of that stuff. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Oh, this? MICHAEL BRENNER: Yeah. We want some of that. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I mean as long as
you set something of mine on the-- MICHAEL BRENNER: You
said it was an emulsion. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: You can
touch it with your fingers. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Oh, it is an emulsion. I mean-- AUDIENCE: Oh, it cracked. [LAUGHTER] MICHAEL BRENNER: OK. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Is
that going to work? MICHAEL BRENNER: I don't know. Let's see. What do you think? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Well, lecithin
is present in egg yokes. MICHAEL BRENNER: May I taste it? Um. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I was actually going
to make you the whole dish right now. MICHAEL BRENNER: Oh, wow. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: So I'm
going to take the lobster. Hey lobster, where did you go? Oh, there you are. OK. So the lobster-- and
if you look at this, it's glazed inside
the lobster stock too. And so that emulsion and the
fact that it's together-- let's take the pot away, fold it over this. The meat's perfectly glazed
inside the sauce as well. So now it's coated in,
like, that drawn butter. But the drawn butter or now the
melted butter, tastes like lobster. So it's like lobster, coated in lobster
butter, which-- I mean, come on Boston. I might come and open a
restaurant here and make this. [APPLAUSE] MICHAEL BRENNER: Look. They're lovely. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Are they? MICHAEL BRENNER: [INAUDIBLE]. Yeah. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Does that
mean I did or did not do my job? MICHAEL BRENNER: You did it. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: OK, perfect, MICHAEL BRENNER: You did. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Because
that would have been awkward. OK. So a few pieces a lobster. I cooked only two whole
lobsters for the demo. I brought the knuckles tonight
because I think it's the best part. I saved the tail for tomorrow's class. Don't tell them. Honestly, I think the
knuckles are the best part. So we've got some lobster knuckle. We're going to-- do you
have a spoon I can borrow? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I do. Right there. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: May
I use one of yours? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Uh-uh. They're not mine. They're ours. AUDIENCE: Ah. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Ah. And so we've got some egg yolk gnocchis. Now, we've got that lobster emulsion. It's so fancy. I think we're making
fancy food right now. You know, I said earlier that
I was going to say um tonight. And I've said like a hundred times. These are sea beans. So Michael, if you want to-- can you
help me out for one quick second? If you could just-- after
I'm finished with this, just eat it and look at everyone
and pretend like it's really good. [LAUGHTER] This is egg yoke gnocchis with a lobster
butter emulsion and some sea beans. [APPLAUSE] MICHAEL BRENNER: Absolutely. It's nice. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: It is? [LAUGHTER] MICHAEL BRENNER: Yeah. I'm just going to have one bite
and then we'll give it out. OK. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Yeah, perfect. Let me see if he's telling the truth. MICHAEL BRENNER: No. It's really good. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Oh
yeah, you're right. It is. OK. [LAUGHTER] Wow, this emulsion is-- MICHAEL BRENNER: Can I give it out? MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: That's really good. MICHAEL BRENNER: You have to come
back and see these people next week. Do you want to give it out? MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: You
guys have a better view. How did I cook the lobster? It's a very good question. Old school, I put the
claws into a container. AUDIENCE: It's really good. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Is
it cooked perfectly? So I blanched the claws and the
tails, six minutes on the claws and three minutes on the tail. So basically what I do is I put
the claws into the bowl first. Boil water, pour it over top of it. Wait three minutes. And then the last three minutes, add
the tails to it, cover it back up. And for some reason, I was shown
how to do this like 12 years ago. And it still blanches lobster perfectly. Then I take it out of it's shell. So I just want to cook it enough to
be able to get it out of the shell. And then I finished it in
the lobster butter sauce. So it's warming up and
finished the cooking, without overcooking it,
right inside the sauce. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Because
this emulsion isn't done yet, all the pepper oil from
cooking jalapenos is on top. And I just took a spoonful of that. And it's really hot. [LAUGHTER] Did you see that, all the
oil droplets on the top? Yeah. You could see it a little bit. So since Michael went lobster,
I wanted to bring crab. Because we're from Maryland and
we have the best blue crabs. [LAUGHTER] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Boston. You're in Boston right now. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I know. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: You got to fight
for your ingredients, Jonah crab. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I know. There's some good Jonah crab here. We had some today. It's really delicious. But the blue crab-- MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I'm only doing
this because you needed the gasket out of this. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I know. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: If this explodes
all over the place, I'm blaming you. There's a little gasket inside here. We only brought one. So actually there's a good
chance this might explode and stuff is going to go everywhere. If that happens, it's
Bryan's fault. Good. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: So I want to do
something that looks very, very simple. Because I think for
a lot of us, we don't realize that we make emulsions every
single day, every time we cook, or at least a lot of times. So a pasta dish, just thinking
spaghetti and a marinara sauce. But if you're adding olive oil, and
butter, and some pasta water to it because you're making it correctly,
we want some of that starch water into there. That starch is going to
help create that emulsion and make that suspended sauce that's
going to coat the pasta all over and make it really delicious. That way every time you're grabbing
a noodle-- I mean I know some of us take the jar of spaghetti
and you boil the pasta. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Did
you say grabbing a noodle? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Well,
yeah, you eat a noodle. I don't know. And you boil the pasta right, and then
you put it in the middle of the bowl, and then you pour the sauce on the top. That's not how we do it in
my house or in a restaurant. So what we do is we take-- the
pasta always goes into the pan. It gets tossed together. The agitation is one thing that
helps to create the emulsion. But then it's also the starch
that's coming also off the pasta into the sauce, that's helping to make
that really luxurious mouth feel they we're looking for. So what I have here, I started
with was just some garlic and oil, a very, very
simple preparation; some jalapeno for some spice. And then I'm reducing
down the crab stock lightly, which we just
made with some crab bodies after we picked all the crabs
and made a stock with that. I have a few minutes to kill. That's why I'm talking because
I have to cook the pasta. And I have a minute and 44 seconds left. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: What are you going
to do for a minute ad 44 seconds? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Hm. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: You're
going to look at me. There's all those good looking people
there and you want to look at me. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Oh, that's right. I do have other ingredients. So I have some butter that--
I took uni or sea urchin roe and basically just pureed the
two together, equal parts. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: So that's uni butter. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: So a hundred grams
of uni, a hundred grams of butter. And that's going to go
right into the sauce because I'm just trying to make my
emulsion that much more difficult. But what's going to happen there too,
now agitation is occurring in the pan. There's boiling that's
occurring in the pan. So that's going to help actually
bring the emulsification together, and the reduction of the stock. So I don't really have
to do a whole lot. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: How much
do you-- that's uni and crab. How much do you charge for that? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Oh, a lot of money. [LAUGHTER] So as you can see, naturally
the two are starting-- MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: This is like
the most expensive emulsion. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: That's right. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: [INAUDIBLE] in there. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I know. So right now it's broken. OK. We went through that
with the other sauce. You can see that the oil is floating. It looks like an oil slick. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: You call it broken. I call it like not getting along. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Not getting along. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: OK a little
therapy, a little emulsion therapy. It's not broken. You can fix it. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Yes. It can be fixed. But we're intentionally breaking
it to bring it back together. So it's just not happening
as fast as I want it to. But the pasta is almost ready. So now, the reduction is occurring. The fat is emulsifying into the liquid. I'm going to add some blue crab. I'll add that right to the pan. [BEEPING] Oh, there's my timer. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: It's ready. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: My timer is done. What I'm going to do is I'm
going to take the pasta. And so this is a squid ink tonnarelli. So I extruded this using a
dye with a pasta extruder. So basically what we do is
we take a liquid and a solid and we push the two together
and push it through. You know, like we have Play-Doh. You're pushing it through
and it makes the hair. That's kind of like the same thing. But it's an extruder. So this agar pushes the pasta through. So we can make any shape we
want and we can change it. We can control the texture
of the pasta too, as well. This is squid ink. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: If you put that
on the menu, black hair pasta, you think they won't buy that? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: No. It would not sell. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Hair pasta? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: So I'm going to
increase the temperature of the pan. Can you-- yes, I need my pepper mill. We're going to let this all
come together to form the sauce. We're also finishing-- MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Maybe you call it-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: --the
cooking of the pasta. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: --like dolly pasta? Like-- no. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I bet we could. We call it-- MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: No art? No one likes art in here? Who took a picture? No. no. [LAUGHTER] There's no evidence, never happened. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: All right. Patience is key. So reducing this down. Also I took-- well, this is
one thing that it's actually interesting to talk about. So this is called "arbe." Here's it's "obay," right? Well, I made "arbe." Actually I had it on the menu. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Is that argh, like
a pirate, or "ar," "ar" or "argh?" BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: And I'm
sure there's probably-- because your legal school here is
obviously one of the best in world. So I'm sure it was probably
somebody was a graduate here, told me to stop calling this
"arbe." [INTERPOSING VOICES] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: He got a
cease and desist for that. That's true. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Yeah, I did. That was very true. I listened. I'd took it get off the menu. All right. So now the reduction is occurring. You see-- or, well, you can't see it. OK. So I'm agitating the pasta and
starting to bring together the sauce. Reduction occurred. So we've evaporated some moisture
and water out of the dish. But then also, the
emulsing has occurred. You can see it's suspended now. It's not broken anymore. The starch from the pasta
started to help thicken it or thicken the liquid together. But then also, the fact
that we made that reduction of that protein-rich stock and then
we emulsified that uni butter into it, it created the emulsion in the pan. MICHAEL BRENNER: So I just can't resist. I have to comment on something else. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Well, you
have come up and try this. It's really delicious. MICHAEL BRENNER: Yeah. Actually, that's what I really wanted. But I also wanted to
point something out. When you were reducing
this, what left the pan? So what went up? Remember the equation. AUDIENCE: The volume fraction. MICHAEL BRENNER: The volume fraction. [APPLAUSE] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I did something I
didn't even know I was supposed to do. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: So what happened was
what went up was the volume fraction. And, um-- [LAUGHTER] --you get it. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: OK. So let's plate it. I may have longer tongs. But I got little short ones here. This will work. So I'm just going to
spoon some of the pasta around a little nest and
place in the center of-- MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Isn't that hot? That's like got to burning your fingers. In front of all these
people, that's awkward. [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: It's hot. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Are you OK? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Yeah, I'm fine. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Pour
some liquid nitrogen on it? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: No. I'm good. So I overproportioned a little bit. And that's fine. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Yeah. Because no one's going to eat it. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: No. Actually, can I have a little
bit of stock because I think that overreduced my
emulsion a little bit. It's actually to the point
where it starting to break. But we'll bring it back together just by
adding a little bit more liquid to it. And there we go. And then because everything
tastes better with pepperoni, at least in my mind. This isn't really called an emulsion. But it's just called damn good. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I'm hungry. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: So I'd say
take pepperoni and grind it. And take the fat from the pepperoni
and toast bread crumb in it and then put the two together. So I call it an emulsion because you're
taking two things that normally don't go together and you put them together. So then we put that over the top. And we have squid ink tonnarelli,
with blue crab, jalapeno, and pepperoni crumb. [LAUGHTER] Oh, my arugula leaves. I want that. And arugula, sorry. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: And arugula. Well, this looks stingy. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: So this sauce would
only look maybe a little bit-- well, I don't know it would be interesting
or not because actually there's some of the starches in the pan too. What would that like? MICHAEL BRENNER: Oh,
should we look at it? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I'm just curious. MICHAEL BRENNER: Well, I-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I just want to
see all my sauces on a microscope because I just think that's cool. All right. So I was just trying
to come up with like-- MICHAEL BRENNER: Well, what
happens to starch when you heat it? Does anybody know? MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: We should
make a business out of this. MICHAEL BRENNER: Does anybody know
what happens when starch [INAUDIBLE]? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Well, it gelatinizes
when they come together with a liquid. MICHAEL BRENNER: But did you know how
much it expands by, what fraction? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: No. That I don't know. MICHAEL BRENNER: Does anybody know? How much does the volume of a starch
granule go up when you heat it? By a factor of-- AUDIENCE: 30. MICHAEL BRENNER: I think it's 30. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: It's 30. MICHAEL BRENNER: It's 30. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: It's 30. Yeah. That's right. MICHAEL BRENNER: That's huge. That's a good way to get the
volume fraction to go up, right? MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: The volume
fraction goes up to 30. MICHAEL BRENNER: The
volume fraction goes up. Yeah. That's why starch
works when you heat it. AUDIENCE: Oh. [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Ha, ha, ha, ha, ha. Wow! Hey! Huh? Look at that. [APPLAUSE] It's moving. Oh, she's just moving it. Never mind. Oh. [LAUGHTER] So what did we do there? MICHAEL BRENNER: I don't know. But it worked. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Does any know-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Yeah. It did. It worked. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: --how much
the volume fraction went up? [LAUGHTER] 30. That's why you're sitting
there and I'm standing here. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Anybody
like to try a pasta? I hate to give out food. All right, my man. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: He
brought his own spoon. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Yeah. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: He
brought his own spoon. [APPLAUSE] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: He's
been to these before. He had a spoon in his back pocket. He was ready. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: If you could--
you want to sear the beef? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I've got that. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: It's
not going to be a big deal. It's just Wagyu beef,
short rib, pastrami, that was cooked at 56 degrees
Celsius for 48 hours in a bag. It's no big deal. It's just like a chunk that
would fit inside there. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: You got it. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: A little bit of oil. I mean because we're here to
talk about foams and emulsions. So that delicious piece of meat
really is not important right now. My next foam is made
out of sauerkraut juice. And so this is-- you know when
you get like a jar of sauerkraut and you eat all the sauerkraut and
then you're left with all that liquid? You can make a Martini out of
it, which is delicious too. It's a dirty sauerkraut Martini. You guys don't drink here at all? AUDIENCE: No. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: No. OK. Or you can make sauerkraut foam. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: [INAUDIBLE] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Finished. And so if you want to get most
of my work done over there, I'm just going to make this foam. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I am. That's what I'm working on right now. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Just
don't burn my sauce. But butter, like could you emulsify a
little bit of butter into that for me? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: You got it. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Perfect. Make it look like the last one that
was on the screen that was all-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I was going
to say I have actually proven I'm really good at it, by the way. [LAUGHTER] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Um-- said it again. This is Gray Poupon. I found it in the student cafeteria. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I thought
there was a guy who was driving down with a big
fancy Bentley, who passed it out of the window. [LAUGHTER] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Stole it
from the student cafeteria. I'm just going to--
this part's technical. I'm going to say roughly about three
stolen packages of Gray Poupon. Sauerkraut juice-- and for this foam,
because sauerkraut juice is basically just water at this point,
I want to get it foamy, and thick, and beautiful, and fix my
hair with it, and stuff like that. So what I did was I scaled
out some Versawhip, which is basically soy protein. It was created to eliminate the
use of egg whites and gelatin and be able to make meringues. And so this is going to be a sauerkraut
meringue that's actually vegan, that I'm going to put
on top of red meat. [LAUGHTER] I fixed that problem real fast. [GRINDING] And so I added a little
bit of mustard to it, just to add a little more flavor. What I made here was what
Brian has in his hand. If you look at the marbling
in that, it's pretty good. But we're talking about this. So that doesn't matter. But that's a pastrami--
yeah, the marbling is just-- BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Oh, I'm
doing a bad job with that. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: --so good. Maybe next time we do a class about me
and I'll make you guys some of that. So that's been cooked for
a couple days in a bag. You guys all do that at home now too. You know, it's funny. The other night, a regular of
ours comes in the restaurant. And he loves our short rib. And so I asked him, do you
want to take some home? And I gave it to him in a bag. And I started say to him,
just put it on the stove and heat it up with a little
water, drop the bag into the pot. And the guy looks at me. He's just a customer. And he goes, can I just heat it
up in my immersion circulator? And I'm like sure you can. This is the Versawhip. [GRINDING] Out of this, on that is going
to be like-- but not yet. OK. So that's my sauerkraut juice. Are you burning something over there? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: No. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: It smells
like really delicious pastrami. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I'm not burning it. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: And
so-- that's not ready yet. [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: What did I miss? MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: It's not ready. I'm not done showing off. All right. So now it's going to get whipped. And hopefully it's going to turn into
like a sauerkraut and mustard meringue that I'm going to put onto my beef dish. And so-- yeah, can you just
baste it a little bit with-- just like-- and then-- yeah, perfect. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Thank you, chef. [GRINDING] [LAUGHTER] [WHISTLING] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I
don't really-- yeah. I don't have anything to say
while this is-- all the work is happening in the mixer right now. I guess I'll start plating. So these are cabbage pickles or
fermented cabbage, lacto-fermintation. It's just some raw cabbage that
we cut out with a fancy cutter, put it into a bag, 2% salt. Let
it hang out in a dry storage room at work for a couple days. Hope the health department
didn't come by and find it. And these are really delicious. And so that will be
one if the garnishes. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Ah,
I want to push that. I'm going to put meat there. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: And so now I'm going
to take this really inexpensive meat-- are you guys hungry? AUDIENCE: Yeah. [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: That's harsh. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: That's
disgusting-ly good. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I know. I did good, right? MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Man, see--
I just want to talk about that. I can't talk about it. I want to. But I can't. It's not that fresh. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Who's
that guy who refilmed that? Woo, man. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: How's that? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: That was me. Well, my mic's not working. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Yeah. We did that on purpose. [LAUGHTER] A little bit of beef jus. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Now, I have to
see this under the microscope. I've actually never seen-- no, just
because I've never seen-- well, I've never seen any of this
stuff under a microscope. But I'm really curious what
does beef jus look like. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: How well
your brother can make sauce? Put that thing on the microscope. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I added the
butter, just pointing that out. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Can you
guys see what's happening here? Wait. Can I move this without hurting myself? It's just sauerkraut foam. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: No. They were just talking about the-- MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: NBD,
that means no big deal. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Oh. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: And
blowing your mind right now. [CHEER] [APPLAUSE] Thank you. Yeah. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: There you got on. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Oh, yeah. I made that. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: And the
arrow is not on it either. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Because
there's too much going up there. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I don't
know what I was looking at. But it looked good. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: These are those
lacto-fermented petals of cabbage. I've got some cabbage chips here. These are fun. Basically, those are tattoos. Those are disgusting. Oh, hold on. Can you-- perfect. See that? These you just fry. Take raw cabbage, fry it like 300
degrees Fahrenheit in oil, dry it. And then stick it in the
dehydrator for a few hours and you get these
delicious cabbage chips. You're not going to get eat any of this. So I shouldn't use
adjectives like delicious. It's probably just going to upset you. I mean it's class about foam, a lecture
about foam, lecture-- class, lecture. We're just talking about foam. It's a talk. Ted's not here though. Where's Ted? [LAUGHTER] I think that's pretty foamy. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I
don't know where Ted is. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: And so that's
sauerkraut juice and some Versawhip. [LAUGHTER] That thing's going to go nuts. That's it? That's going to make the whole thing? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: It's a microscope. It looks at small things
and makes it bigger. [LAUGHTER] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Brrh. So we're going to just put a
little bit of that sauerkraut. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: He got oohs and awes. Hey, look at that. There it is. Look it. Check it out. You got big bubbles in there. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Meat likes pepper. Nasturtiums tastes like pepper. Chefs put pretty flowers
on stuff because they just put pretty flowers on stuff. This is intentional. These nasturtiums actually
taste pretty peppery. And so beef and pepper
go really well together. I mean you're not going to know because
I'm not going to let you eat this. Somebody is going to eat it. I mean you brought your own spoon. But you don't bring a knife and fork. So you're not getting this one. [LAUGHTER] Who has a fork? I'm bringing it right to you. [APPLAUSE] MICHAEL BRENNER: Maybe you should
go to somebody in the back corner because they haven't got anything. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I'll
take them some beef. She has a fork. And so that's Waygu, short rib,
pastrami, with sauerkraut foam. [APPLAUSE] Michael, this is all back row. Dibs, back row right here. MICHAEL BRENNER: This
is for the back row MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO:
That's for the back row. This is for the lady with the fork. [APPLAUSE] Man, you have 300 people
hating you right now. How does that feel? There you go. Turn around, bow. [LAUGHTER] It's like when you see
somebody win the lottery, like you want to be happy for them. But it's just like, ah,
why didn't I bring a fork? We have five minutes, one more dish. We're going to do six dishes in
one hour, if we get these done. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I can
do this in five minutes because I already prepped an area. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: We need like
a countdown or an official-- I feel like you should
feel the pressure. You have five minutes
to get this dish done. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: All right. So this dish-- AUDIENCE: Top Chef. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Top Chef. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I'm
very prepared everything. So this dish-- well, you said that. Now, I got to tell a
story about this one because there's always a story to it. So during a holiday season,
you're shopping in a mall. And you walk by and you smell, like,
this strong slap in the face of, like, vanilla, and cinnamon, and,
like, cider, around the holiday season, around this time of the year. It's normally a Bath and Body Works or
something like that because it's so. So this dish is literally
inspired by me going shopping for my wife for Christmas. And so what it is is coconut,
lavender, and vanilla. So three flavors you wouldn't normally
expect to go together on a plate. But they work really well. And one of the cool things
about it is I wanted to make this dish because
it was the holiday season and I wanted to make it look like snow. So I wanted to make it look
like a snowball, and snow, and like all of those things. And it's dish that we've been running
at the restaurant for a long time. But I had no idea that we used foams,
and emulsions, and all of those things when we made the dish until we filled
in for somebody else in this lecture and we had to send some recipes up. And I started to realize that actually
there was a little bit of science that went behind creating this dish. So much like Michael,
in the dish that he did earlier, the first
one, the cucumber, I made a foam using coconut, some milk,
some yogurt, and, oh, some xanthan gum. And so that was used to suspend it
and then charged it again with NO2 to make a foam texture. You don't have to work anymore. So I'm going to charge it
with two of these chargers and then let that sit for a minute. I already put one in. You have to tap that bottom. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: That's OK. Tell them. [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: All right. So the first component, what
this is, this is not an emulsion. But what this is we used a starch
and took oil made with lavender and turned it into a-- MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: What are you doing? [LAUGHTER] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: She
just stole the beef. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: [INAUDIBLE] BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: She's
allowed to have it. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: This is Harvard. They don't feed you at Harvard? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: So this is actually
oil that's been turned into a powder. And so that's the lavender
component to the dish. Then what we're to do is we're going to
takes some of this liquid nitrogen. Oh, we're not going to pour it on our hand. Pour it into the bowl. Where's that ladle at? So I let the ladle get really cold. So the lavender, coconut, and
vanilla, what this is, these are little meringues that have been made
with vanilla, vanilla syrup, and sugar. I made this one easy, this one we're
just kind of talking about here. Let's place that on. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: It
tastes like Lucky Charms. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Coconut pudding,
it does taste like Lucky Charms. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I love Lucky Charms. Oh, wait. That was on camera. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: So this
is a coconut pudding, which is made with xanthan gum. So we make a gel with
coconut milk and steep it some lemon grass and some lime leaf. And then make a pudding with
that and then puree it smooth. So it's a set pudding first. And we set to the point where it's
almost like the texture of hard candy-- not hard candy, but kind of like
[INAUDIBLE], almost like a soft candy. And then we puree it smooth. And it gets a really great texture. Then lastly, I'm going to
take nitrogen and a ladle. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: You
should put your tongue on it. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: And we're
going to make a ball of foam. Now, we're going to place
it into liquid nitrogen. I know around here you're supposed
to wear gloves and eyeglasses. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO:
Goggles, eye protection. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I know. But it's OK. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Easy. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: You can touch it. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Just like that,
he like puts it behind his ears. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: And then what we
have here is a shell on the outside. So everybody likes a
magic shell and ice cream. No. It's gross, actually. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: I think it's gross. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: I don't know. There's all kinds of weird
things in that stuff. But basically that's what we're doing. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Like xanthan gum? BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: We have this
really great dome that's frozen. The foam is suspended and frozen. But then the foam is in the center. So when you crack it, it
opens up and oozes out. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Prove it. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: So
then goes onto the dish. Well, somebody else is going
to come up here and prove it. AUDIENCE: Throw it. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: Throw it? [LAUGHTER] I don't know. Is that allowed? OK, go ahead. [TAPPING] MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: Oh, oh. Just kidding. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: It will crack. So it cracks open. And then you have this really
great aerated foam texture in the center and sort of like-- MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: It died. BRYAN VOLTAGGIO: --this frozen
ice cream on the outside. So that's coconut,
lavender, and vanilla. [LAUGHTER] Thank you. MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO: And
that was number six. So we did it. We did it in-- [APPLAUSE] Thank you, guys. Thank you very much.
