Brand New 541 HEMI Build - Engine Assembly Secrets

[Music] this week in the engine room at Nick's garage Nick is assembling a brand new 541 Hemi he'll be dropping in the crank the rear main seal and showing us how he pounds the Pistons into this huge muscle car engine let's do it Nick's garage is supported by Atlas equipment and ktool in interational hi I'm Nick and welcome to my shop you know I've done a lot of engines on the dyno Road testing with you folks watch me what I do in the shop but I wanted to show you something a little bit different today I want you to see what goes on in the engine room assembly which is right here and of course I've got a few pieces I want to show you today this is the brand new 541 Hemi engine that came in that Richard brought in and and I just wanted to show a little assembly here I wanted to show you how the crank goes in how we measure the bearing clearance and also I want to assemble one piston to the rod with the Rings and the spirals to see how it gets installed into the block and at the same time I want to show you how the rear seal is done because you know there's a lot of new viewers on board that haven't seen it you know we've done it on previous videos but I like to bring it up once in a while and you know a lot of people make that on a comment so I'm going to make a little demonstration later on with this and it's going to be a brand new engine like this is the one that was supplied with everything brand new and I should say a few folks were asking what do something that this cost well most of the parts or should I say the whole engine was brought here by my client he was in about the Canadian dollars within 34 $35,000 but then again there's no headers exhaust system we've got no push rods no intake manifold and no carbers and no linkages whatsoever we we're still climbing up and that is not including the machine work assembly and of course Dino testing so I'm just going to go through a few steps of you guys here today and then we'll see what you think so pour yourself a cup of coffee and get your not pads ready as Professor Nick is about to give a lesson on how he builds an old school Hemi with brand new [Music] parts I just want to say that we just got started with a brand new 528 block and it's going to be stroked out with a 4.250 crank shaft it's going to be a 541 cubic inch motor now this block came in with a rough bore finish so we had to do a nice finishing of a 45004 with a nice finish and also I had the block deck about 30 thou the reason why is because you were using aluminum heads and I wanted to get a little bit more horsepower so the only thing I've done to this engine is I installed five new cam bearings which are inside the block right now and also the dju bushing which is down here and I've also installed the core plugs which are right here on the side and of course most famous of all meling oil pump which this is a high press pump so we got the pump installed we got the cam bearings we threw in the cam loose we got a deck we got it boarded out and right now I just installed the five half upper bearings which I'm going to turn the engine over because I want to install the crankshaft I want to install the crankshaft but I want to show you how I get started with it with the rear seal and I use a seal here which is from felpro and of course when you open it up you guys you got to make sure that the two halves match you know like they got to make sure that these two halves belong to each other and if this one here if you look at it real good it lines up perfect so you know that these two halves go together so I'm going to turn the block over and then after that we're going to stall the upper half of the seal offset a bit then we're going to install the crank put in the five main caps leave one loose put in some plastic gauge and measure the clearance before we go any further so you guys ready let's do [Music] it okay so to get started we're going to turn the block upside down so we can install the crank from underneath which is is going to be much easier with the block upside down and here we go if you guys can take a good look I installed the five upper main bearings and you got to be sure that the upper main bearings have the holes inside which is where the oil comes in through the block to the bearings to the crankshaft if you take a good look on the lower bottom half bearings do not have a hole so you got to make sure you don't mix them up if you do mix them up you're going to be burning bearings before you know it so anyways now I got the bearings in place before I put the oil this is where the rear seal comes in right here in the back of the engine so I'm going to make sure it's clean I'm going to stall the seal and of course you got to make sure that when you install the seal that the lip folds towards the inside so let me make sure it's clean get the seal and I'll show you guys right now you know you want to make sure that when you install silicone anywhere in the corners you got to make sure there's no oil cuz the silicone itself will do the job but if you got any oil stain no matter how much silicone you put it will not stick or seal so here we go I'm going to get the upper half of the seal like so I'm going to grease it like so you know you don't want to put a seal in and super dry then before you know it it's going to cook so anyways now let me get my glasses let me show you guys exactly what I'm talking about with the lip pointing on the inside if you guys take a look the lip PS is towards the crankshaft and other works towards the inboard of the engine and when you look at it when I install it I knock it off set about uh about 76 of an inch like so okay there that is enough just you don't want to make sure that the block and the end of the seal match together you offset it about a 38 of an inch 76 in like so okay now now I'm going to put oil in the B rings and we're going to drop in the crank now these are brand new bearings they are standard size because it's a brand new crank so we don't need to go under size or uh grinder crank for any reason it's a brand new crank so we don't have any issues with that so I'm going to install that crank then I'm going to torque it down and I want to make sure that the bearing to crankshaft Journal has the correct clearance okay so now we got the bearings oiled up the upper halves and now I'm going to drop the crank in here we go you know my favorite part of the shop is the dining room when I blast these engines and of course my engine assembly room it's so peaceful here it's clean it's quiet it's more like a private room it's like a surgery room and this is where I work slowly take my time and of course every little thing every little detail counts because one mistake is on the Builder's fault you know if a part comes in it's not correct or it doesn't fit it's up to me or the engine builder to know this you know of course I measure everything as much as I can and you know every piece that comes in has a disclaimer warranty in other words Pistons crank shots anything you buy connect your wi they tell you disclaimer warrant in other words there's no warranty whatsoever so everything falls on my lap so I got to make sure that these parts are good they're well fit and of course precise blue Printing and all and make sure everything and all the clearances are good and of course you prime the engine you make sure everything goes good your clearances are good B through valve or whatever and then when you go the dino you're practically sure nothing's going to go wrong you know I've been doing it for such a long time I've been lucky a lot of people make comments Nick have you ever have an engine blown on a dyo no I have not and I'm hoping it does not so anyways I just keep going the same way I've always done I put a lot of precaution and everything I buil together and that's what I'm here for there you don't have to pick it up as high so I've tilted the engine just a bit so it makes it a lot easier instead of going up in the sky to drop the crank I've tilted it I'm going to carry the crank and drop it in so we got the five main bearings in we got the rear seal in place and now it's the crankshaft and it's not a very not exactly a light piece okay here we go there we have it now put the engine sh and forward like so so you guys can have a good view now we have the crankshaft in place yes this is a forge crankshaft it's a 4.250 stroke which equals a 541 cubic inch all right so I read a few comments you know this crankshaft is forigo yes it's written on the Box made in China but you know what I've used Eagle cranks for many many years I've used Eagle connector rods also made in China okay some people are against it but you know what maybe the machine work's done in you would say I don't know but I've used them quite a I've used them quite a bit and I haven't found any issues with them so if there is any I'm not sure but everything I look at like I said earlier it's my job to make sure it's good so it is made in China and we had it balanced over here everything looked good my machinist who balance the crank says Nick it's a new crank I I didn't see any cracks we did a balancing on it had no issues so now we put it in place and my job is to check the clearance so now we're going to install the main caps torque them down I'm going to leave one loose so I could put my plastic gauge I'll show you guys how I measure my bearing clearance so I'm going to I'm hoping to have like a one to two and I'm sorry from one and a half to 2,000 bearing clearance okay but first let's put it in torque it down it'll take it from there there we go let's take cap number one this is the first Cap all right put some oil on it just to lubricate it then you put it in and this is number one and always put the notch with the notch make sure you don't make a mistake because every bearing cap has a certain direction and these being a ARP bolts we have to lubricate all the threads with an ARP lubricate like so they're made by ARP these are fantastic bolts they're high strength steel and this is how they came with this block so this is Cap number one okay here we go going have to they're very tight on this block for example being very very tight let me just pull out a plastic hammer and you know these caps are so tight in the semi block that they fit like a glove and it's a four ball main on the front four main caps if you could see let's take this cap for example one bolt here two on the top and one on the other side let me see if I can get this down here now now I got my impact put the battery in it oh 916s there we go okay then we take cap number two same thing licate the bearing you know what since I'm out it I should have said earlier that you know sometimes you could build an engine it might sit for a long time in storage but in that case I should start using this uh meling Lube which is a little bit thicker than the oil you lubricate all the bearings which I'm going to do on the rest of the bearings it case the engine sits around for a long time you know you might prime it might sit around for a while so I'm going to use the meling lube to assemble the rest of the engine as we go along right now but in the meantime let's get these caps in place ARP it's mly Loop that we use on the uh ARP bolts and then we have a torquing sequence we got to follow what they say and this is going to be 100 foot- pounds when it comes down to torqueing it down all right like so okay now bearing number three on the bake bar MERS has a Thrust bearing you can see there's a bearing on the side also this is the crank end plate so in other words when you torque this down you want want to make sure that there's an endplay of about 5 to 7,000 in so we're going to look at that later on but just to let you know this is the bearing that takes the thrust play you know I got to make sure my hands are clean when I do this like so and then you have this goes like [Music] [Music] so [Music] and now we're going to put the last bearing the main cap last main cap the the reason is I'm not going to put this cap here we're going to put a plastic gaug because I'm not going to measure all five journals I've measured all the journals to all the same diameter so all the bearings are standard so what I'm going to do is I'm going to use the plastic gauge on bearing cap number four torque it down take it off and see what our clearance is and if everything goes well then we proceed on installing the rear seal and now for the last cap here we [Music] go you know these brand new modern Hemi blocks that they come out with the Caps are so tight if you notice on the Caps there is threaded holes in it and once you torque it down and you want to remove the cap it's almost impossible to pry it out of place so what Dan and I have done here in my shop we've designed a tool you could call it a puller it's a bridge you put it over like so which I'm going to show you in a few minutes when we do the removal of cap number four so we did this design inh housee so I can pull out these Caps or else we'll be Bing out like crazy to get it off so in the meantime let me put down the last cap torque him down and then we're going to install the fourth cap with the plastic [Music] gauge and these bolts are slightly shorter than the rest because the it is a rear cap with non four BT main on this one just to make sure we have the notch with the Notch and there's the one on the Block you see it and this goes on the same [Music] side there we go let's just put this down also okay on this one here we're not going to put a m Lube we're not going to use any melon Lube we're going to put motor oil because I want to install a piece of plastic gauge on it to give us our clearance and when the one we're going to use is the green one which is a clearance of 1 to 3 in so we want to be in there somewhere I'm going to cut off about a half an inch like so put it on the crank at the 12:00 position like so okay there it is let me just get this out out of the way okay and now for the beginners plastic gauge is a piece of rope or string that when it gets squeezed it leaves that that area that doesn't get squeezed is the gap between the joural and the bearing so what I'm going to do is I'm going to put the cap on and as we torque it down it squeezes that gauge which is made out of plastic then we take off the cap and then we read it against our chart right here and you'll see what I'm doing first of all let me just torque down the other four caps then we'll put the cap in and you see what I'm talking [Music] [Music] about it's good you know it doesn't have there's no sequence it's not a cylinder head you could do it any way you would wish in my opinion we torque it down the crank now just for a little shortcut we got the gauge there I'm just going to turn the crank a little bit just want to make sure it turns free but we don't want to lose that gauge here we go so the crank turns so we're going to put that plastic gauge at the 12:00 position which you have it right there now we take the cap with motor oil line up cap number four we're going to torque it down and then take it off to see what our clearance [Music] is now for no no matter what reason you do not turn a crankshaft okay let torque it down now we'll torque down the cap we're going to torque it down to 100 foot lbs that is the specifications for this block and now we're going to break him loose on cap number four and here we go now that plastic gauge if you guys could uh me understand it just got squashed how much I don't know we're going to find out when we remove the cap and this is the reason how we check clearance on the crankshaft and this is on the main journals you guys on the main journals so now we're going to take it off and take a look what we got you know this is for a lot of guys that you know I like to cater to a lot of our viewers that work at home I'm trying to keep it simple there's other ways of measuring bearing clearance with micrometers and an indicator putting the cap on with the cap so T get it down without the crank but I'm just keeping it simple for you viewers that have the simple tools to do what we can do or should I say what you guys can do keep it simple okay get my bridge and of course that cap is so tight in there with these new generation blocks so what we're going to do is I made a to FRP like right here it is very very tight to pull them out the Caps the Caps came with these threads you know they when when I bought the block like the other block I built for my 528 was the same block same part number and the main caps had this drilled tap thread holes in them I was wondering why so when I wanted to remove the Caps boy was it difficult but nobody tells you there's a tool there's no tool in the market to pull these caps off the din so DIN and we made our own tool as you can see here we made a bridge with a bolt and now it's going to pull it out and we call this a cap puller and here we go watch how it livs you see it coming up in a few a minute or two we're going to have it out and of course make sure you're using a high quality bolt because you don't want it to break [Music] [Music] inside okay now let's pull out that cap and see what does it look like now we take our our gauge if you guys could take a good look can you see it here we go so we got this let's put it everywhere it's not 3 th is not 2 th and it's not 1,000 so so from what I see here we're Laing about 1 and 1/2 maybe almost 2 th but it's more like 1 and 3/4 of a thou clearance which is perfect within my specifications so this is a go ahead now I know that the main journals and the main cap the clearance is good so one and a half to two to is perfect and I know I'm going to have good oil pressure and of course good uh good clearance so that is how you measure the clearance on the main bearings plastic gauge which is the green paper which is 1 to 3,000 this is what you want on a typical American V8 engine okay now we're just going to take out the plastic [Music] gauge now I'm just going to put the cap and torque it down with my uh meling Lube like so let's put down the cap is there we're going to measure once everything's in place we're going to measure our crankshaft and play stay tuned for that let me put this down to into place so now I put cap number four back in place I torqued it down and now we want to see if this crank spins freely and there we go I'll get my wrench out if you guys can see it turns free all right now let's check the crank end play and if that goes well then we're going to go to the rear seal and when you're engines you guys you know when you use motor oil it's a lot easier to turn the crank if the clearances are correct but if you use the meling lube or any other engine assembly like there's driven engine assembly grease there's a meling also it's a thicker like a grease so when you torque him down you want to turn it's they going to be a little bit more stiffer so that's going to be normal but just to make sure you make sure your clearances are good so you know all right so we got this now let's measure our crank end PL I've got here a dial indicator which I'm going to I'm going to use a magnet base if I can I'm going to just tie it to the crank you're going to see what I want to do with this okay we set this to zero is it a zero there it is okay so now we've got all five caps tored down let me set up my down indicator and our clearance it's supposed to be 2 to 7,000 So within 2,000 to 7,000 is what we're looking for here we go so I'll zero in my gauge get my little screwdriver okay we got a zero Mark here let's zero it in okay zero Mark here we go move the crank in out if you guys take a good look so if you take a good look we got 3 to 4 th clearance watch this take a look at the gauge you guys so we got about what 4 th so we're within the limits two to 7 thou we got 4 th we're good so the end play is good our plastic gauge gave us a good reading and so far main caps T down except the main cap bolt on the side we'll do later on so we got our bearing clearance of 1 and 1 half to 2 th which is great our in play is about 4 th which is perfect within specifications of two to 5 thou and now let's install the rear seal this is nice all brand new this is all brand new stuff you guys okay so you guys now let's make sure it's super super clean here we go this might take a while I'll try to explain it to the best of my knowledge okay now what we need to do is get the cap the retainer got to make sure it's nice and clean I've told you that the seals have to be together which I've shown you earlier it has to be a match set so now what I'm going to do is put the seal in the way I want it we're going to grease it up like I did earlier okay and where's the cap here we go we got to make sure it's good so I'm going to offset it a bit to line up with the one in the lower half like so okay okay you see that it's offset this is sticking out a bit I want is Bel all the the the deck of the uh retainer and now I'm just going to put a little bit of my favorite silicone which is made by perex the one I use is the part number 59903 it does the job all the time for me you know there's different circles for different jobs for the rear seal I use this one here okay what what we do is now we put a tab of seal right here I mean a sealant right over here there's no gasket there so it's just a metal to metal contact like so and the hardest part is this here this is very very tight so I don't put no silicone on this because this is like a compressed seal to put them in they only go one way if you guys can take a look like so and to give me a hand what I do is to make my job a lot easier I took two long bolts about four five in Long 38 course thread I met a hacksaw mark on the top so I could use a screwdriver to remove them so what you do is you put it in here like so and the other one of course and what I do is I take a screwdriver ever and very lightly I put a little bit of silicone in the corners like so way down there in the corner just a tab just a little tab okay so we cut that done all right and let's see now if this goes in this is a little bit tight but I'm going to do my best to show you guys how I go about it you got to make sure that the lip points towards the inside of the engine like so let's hope I can get it in there sometimes when they're brand new they're very very tight oh they're going to be tight come on this one's not well we going to take it over again this is not going to be an easy task you know the older Chrysler retainer seals on the ends were made out of a very hard subance this is a rubber one it flexes and it's hard to push it down at the same time I'm going to try you know everything's brand new here and it's a tight fit the block is new the retainer is new their rear seal is new and let me see if I can get this done see if you guys could take a good look here it's cutting the end of the seal because that's how that tight it is on both sides or should I bring him down halfway let's try this I'll bring him down halfway and here we go oh my God is it ever tight we have to think out of the box because this is not going to happen this is a very very tight situation so what I'm going to do is I'm going to trm these you know they're pretty thick as they are it's tight because it's also got dowel pins right on the bottom where these two bolts go through on the older engines they don't have this so this being a high-end Block it's going to be a very very tight fit so what I'm going to do is I'm going to thin this out a little bit add some silicone and let it be no you know what I'm going to have to think out of the box on this one this ain't going to happen what I'm going to do is I'm going to take these two Blue Seals trim them I thin them out a bit so it can make it a lot easier to slide in this is ridiculous all right you know I'm sure you guys that on the original blocks they they don't going that tight because they don't have these Dow pins in place and these are the modern Shields that they've been using Lately from felpro trying to put this on as a pain in the butt okay let's do the other one you know I did the same to my Hemi my 528 I did the same thing we had it running on the dyno and it did not leave whatsoever I used the same retainer the same seal the same block I trimmed on this a bit you know I find it very tight almost impossible for installation but maybe you guys have a better way I don't know but I'm just going to trim it add a silicone and then take it from there I just want to thin them out a bit because this is getting a bit too tight take a little bit more off it okay let's go back to the engine let's hopefully they're going a lot easier let's see how tight they are before I add any silicone let me take a good look I'd like to add some all to help it go down but I don't want the o to go in there because I don't want it to fall inside the on the base where the silicone is know [Music] come [Music] on okay now let's put the original bolts in there bring it down slowly here we go after all this work it better not leak okay here we go get the original bolts I'm just going to add a little bit of a lubricant there we go I'm going to use these bolts to bring it down of course it's a 3/8 12 Corner socket we go now we pushing it down I want to go I want the reter to go down with the seal let me see if I can push it down oh God is it ever tight let's try it see it's coming up [Music] again I bottom Del the retainer question is the lips should be leveled but they're so tight I can't get them in there so what I'm thinking maybe take them out and try it again I'm going to try to bring it further down so it could be leveled without cutting it uh this is going to take some time but you know what I want to do it the right way now just going to trim these end seals just a little bit more then I think we'll be good and then I think we'll have it [Music] on okay let's try it one more time here we go man they're so tight is it the retainer is it the block I don't think it's a seal I've used the same seals on the older 440 and old Chrysler hem block I had no issues with it whatsoever but this being a brand new block new retainer maybe this is why in and out in and out you know it's a door [Music] best [Music] [Music] am I going to use any silicone on the ends not yet there's another way of taking care of this I'll show you in a little while okay here we go [Music] come on okay take all the guides let's try one more time with the bolts pull it down like so this thing better not leak going to be a little messy when it comes to removing it anyways you know what we're going to give it our best [Music] shot I want to push the seal in at the same time as the retainer goes down like so this one's down already [Music] got to help it it so I'm going to push it down the bolt like so you know I'm still batt any real seals nowadays anyway it's all good we'll give it a Best Shot there we go you know on the end of the Blue Seals even though they're still tight on the bottom there's silicone to make up the gap between the Blue Seal and the block so the Silicon that I put a drop in earlier will make up the Gap that if the seal did not bottom out on the uh blue end seal they not bottom out okay okay Frank turns good yes sir it's good you know what now that was a challenge wasn't it okay I'm just going to knock it a few times I want to make sure that the rear end seal sits in property okay there we go so now we got a rear seal in place there we go let's hope it doesn't leak and of course if it's going to leak we're going to see it on the dynamometer all right so look at that they bottomed out we know they got right down to the bottom okay next so that was a struggle with the rear seal finally we got it in and hopefully it doesn't leak so let me just install now a connect Rod piston and a pin with the spirals then I want to install the Rings how they go into place before they get installed into a cylinder block so let's get started here we go Nick has already assembled the rest of the Pistons for this build but he saved one to show us on camera so let's get two connector rod bearings we install one like so if you notice the bur is off to one side so you have to make sure you know what cylinder you're in for example this is piston number eight connector on number eight so we know when it's in place this is how it goes intake let's say now the engine is facing this way Notch for the intake is on top and of course the opening or should I say the journal is on this way on the uh counterweight of the crankshaft which is more clearance so this is how we install it so we what do we do we take our Lube Lube our uh wrist bin area like so and of course inside the uh this is a free floating piston what we got here so let's just make sure here we go intake like so then you want to put the wrist pin so it's a free floting you guys noticed that then I have to get pressed in okay there we go so let's say Block's facing that way intake on the top and of course the bearing towards the front because you want the Gap towards the counter weight so this is way it's going to go in place and now let's install our spirals when the spirals come out of the package they're flat like so to install them and this takes two spirals per side I did one side already but I left the other side not done so I can show you guys you have to open the spirals like so okay one two you open them up because they come in the package are flat so now that they're stretched out we're going to install one at a time like so and there's a Groove in there so you got to make sure these two spirals get in place okay we got one in like so there we got one more and know some Pistons come with one spiral per sight some come with a snap ring some are pressed in in this case there're two spirals per [Music] site [Music] [Music] okay and this is why they call it free floating now the pin is locked inside there lag here we go so now we got a wrist pin in place and now it's time to put the Rings in place okay what we do here is we Loop the Piston Ring Grove like so let me just show you okay let I give it a few seconds I let it dri down and then I'm going to install the pistol rings and there's a there is a certain sequence here's let's take cylinder number one for example we're going to install the rings on the Piston but there's a certain one way okay now we have to know first of all what is the thrust side sitting in the driver's seat the thrust side of the cylinder is on the right side of the cylinder in other words on the driver's side it's on the upper side which is the thrust side which is towards the intake and on the passenger side the thrust site is on the exhaust side which is on the right hand side of the cylinder so sitting in the driver's seat right hand side is on the upper side of the cylinder on this side and on the passenger side it's on the lower side where the exhaust is so there is your thrust side up on this side lower on this side so I'm just going to line up my piston and I'm going to show you guys slowly how we do this okay this is cylinder number eight just don't want to make a mistake here we go I'm going to start by putting the oil ring okay let me let me just just install the Rings then I'm going to come up and I'll show you guys what I'm talking about it's hard to see from where I'm doing it but anyways let me just install them and I'll give you guys a breakdown in a few seconds you spiral it on like so if you notice the expander the opening is on this side okay and then the rails are going to be on 1/3 this way 1/3 this way in other words like the letter Y up up on top here and two on the side so it's like the letter Y okay so in other words we got the two gaps on the rails over here and expand over here now let's get piston ring number two second ring which I have it in the cylinder which I had them gapped if you guys take a look there's a gap you know these were oversized rings and you have to follow to be fitted perfect this being a 4 and 1/2 in bore we're going to go about 4 and 1/2 T to a in so it comes up to about 21,000 so the first Gap uh the first ring the Gap would be 21 and on the second ring was just about almost 23 Gap so this ring has 23, Gap so let's install it and you can see the do when you see the dot that's towards up towards up towards the top of the piston and I got a special pair of pliers here that you go like this and then you uh put them on like so you have to open it up to slip it over the room Grove so you can install it in place and this is going to be on the top side now we got the top ring which I have the last in the board because that's the last piston ring Wings stall here's the top ring which has a chrome finish I didn't mention before that the black ring usually the second ring are usually black the top rings have a chrome finish like so it also has the dot so this is also upwards and here we go let's put this on the top all right so I just finished putting the Rings in piston number eight but I'm going to put it down because everything on marked on my block is piston number one which is cylinder number one so here's cylinder number one or should I say piston number one like so okay I wanted to show you guys I'm not going to install it just to show how the Rings go now here is the front of the engine right here and this is cylinder number one piston number one intake valve is toward the intake side and now if you take a good look this is the thrust side like we said earlier here so the top ring is on the 12:00 position and the second ring is at the 6:00 position like so so you know now that they are 180° apart now let's go to the oil ring the expander is at the 12:00 position where it says right here and the rail one Gap here where is it right there and the other one right there so you got the rail one at 8:00 the other one at 4:00 the other one at 12:00 which equals to the letter Y or should I say an upside down letter uh y so that's what we this is the radiation of the piston ring installation this is very simple now all you have to do is put oil on the skirts put your piston ring squeezer on and put it into the cylinder and then continue to rest the same manner I'm going to put my tool on it and I'm going to show you how this is done here we go okay for you guys that haven't seen this done I'll show a this demonstration on one piston so now you know how the Rings are in place this tool squeezes all the Rings because you know the all the Rings have a tension that they want to come out so what we're going to do is we're going to squeeze them in into the grooves so when we slide into the cylinder that they slide in without breaking apart I like to take my time on this I don't want to rush it because you don't want to break any rings CU if you want to know you never get spare rings let me tell you so there we go so we have our piston ring squeezer as you can see it squeezed all the piston rings in place now I'm going to get some moreal oil put some on the skirt like so okay like so then I'm going to get my Loop for for the bearing like so and now we have a special Mallet for this and then of course we're just going to put a little bit of oil on the cylinders like so you know after all the blocks being bored honed and washed there we go [Music] [Music] [Music] okay make sure that the your ring squeezer sitting flat across the deck and then tap it slowly make sure it doesn't doesn't get jammed because you don't want to snap or break any piston ring like so tap it lightly and before you know you have it in place then put your hand underneath guide the connector rod on the crankshaft so now I'm holding the connector Rod so I can line it up with the connector Rod Journal so I'm going to tap it slightly and fold the pattern underneath there you can tell when the Piston bottomed out on the crank shelf it has a different sound to it and then now we're going to turn it over put on the cap and there's our piston installation but if you want to know something else I'm also going to measure the con rod bearing clearance with the plastic gauge so before I go any further I shown you an example earlier how to measure it so now before I put the cap I'm going to put a plastic gauge on one or two of the journals torque him down take them off forget the good the clearance then I'm on good installing all the rest of the Pistons there you have it this is what it takes to put together a short block you contains Pistons pins connect rods rod bearings and the pist rings and of course a rear seal and the crankshaft itself yeah it's time consuming you have to make those measurements you got to make sure everything's lubricated you got to make sure everything's clean and so forth and like the orientation of the Rings are very important like so we have it shown earlier on our video and of course there you have it so after that if the brain clearers are going on the C rods install the other seven pistons and then after that we start working with the V tring and you know even though I did finish this engine I've got the cam I've got the lifters I've got the cylinder heads but now now that I've got the business installed I could install the cylinder heads and then make a measurement for my Walker assembly to the lifters the length of the push so we don't have any push so I got to have them custom made but in the meantime I do not have any malif or car beers or headers for this engine so in the meantime I'm going to wait for the other parts to come in but in the meantime I'm going to stumble the cylinder heads and of course the other seven Pistons I want to thank you guys for joining me here in the engine room stumbling this brand new Hemi engine that came in and U of course after that when it's done we can't wait to put on the dyno get it tested and of course there's a lot more coming in and don't forget you guys subscribe to my channel press the like button and watch us here on Nick's garage thank you very much you know I got to thank our viewers because a lot of times we get gifts here and you know what I want to thank them on camera you know they send me coffee they come here in person and I want to thank him and of course I want to put it on video so I want to start with yesterday you know being on YouTube we get a lot of viewers from all over the world as you all know knowing all these flags from from all over the world we are Global yesterday I had Andreas and Simon or Simo come from Sweden yes that is correct from Sweden they came to visit my shop yesterday because they're doing business in Montreal for two weeks and they said you know what they're going to come by and at the same time they brought me some Swedish coffee I wanted to say a big thank you to Andreas and Simon that came here yesterday to my shop and said hello to me and I want to also thank him for the coffee they brought me in here to my shop and you guys thanks a lot you know they pay a visit to Montreal because there's a place up in St stash not far from here that works on the machinery equipment that they work for log Max you know they take it's a head that goes on a harvester machine and it grabs the tree cuts it trims it puts it on a truck or whatever wow if you want to talk about a country that has a lot of trees right here in Canada and you know you know you know coming from Sweden boy they were both big guys here anyways they were both big guys and I want to give them a big thank you for coming by thank you guys okay and the next one is our mail closest to our home here from Ontario Canada okay and what do we got here let's take a look I got my glasses and this one here is from G&R salts okay you guys let's see what you got us you know it's always a pleasure to uh open up gifts that come from all over the world you know and I always save them for camera time because you know I always save a few of them and then I call in George and we make a a little video oh wow wow what's this here for the engine automobile room desk passion and professional use next garage wow mopile performance parts engine assembly you know I call mopile Performance very often for parts and I've bought many many parts from direct connection hustle stuff way before mopa performance and yes I did buy a lot of stuff from war performance but lately everything is discontinued but you know what coming from you Gary I'll still put it up and here we go thank you thank you very much and of course every package comes with a letter and let's read it hi Nick we were on on route to get you some coffee when we found out about your Christmas party sorry we missed it but here's some cheers and share it at the shop with your Helping Hands looking forward to a great year of garage here we go thanks Raven and G I see that we you signed off by saying here we go and of course we still have your sign up on our door in the dining room here we go and that local is from you thank you very much thanks you guys so let's see what you got us I'm sorry you guys couldn't make it to my party well oh boy more coffee oh cookies wow look how much they brought us here New Orleans coffee wow I've never had this one before okay there's one and of course biscuits Amar not bad not bad you know when you have coffee here it's good to have snacks yeah we sure have enough product of Italy coffee from New Orleans and a lot of cookies and I want to say a special thank you to Gary Raven for the coffee and the cookies thank you guys all the way from montario okay here's another one from Canada and this is from Scott from Cold War Motors and of course he's got his own YouTube channel here on uh in Alberta I should say and I want to thank Scott because he supplied me the Volve covers four buol Vol covers for a b engine that we installed on Mike's cha 3963 300j car so Scott if you're watching thank you very much and let's see what you've got us [Music] now there we go wow it's a pretty tight fit okay Scott what did you get us here wow Co he has his own calendar all right let's take a look Scot and frankers beautiful calendar man I see you work with a lot of old cars and everything I believe you bought this car that was half buried in the mud George told me that you took it apart and you took a frame from a Dodge and you put it all together and you got this beautiful machine Scott that's a lot of work and I heard you did every little trim framework all of it from scratch this is awesome so if I need any special trim that doesn't exist Scott I'm going to give you a call let me tell you all right there's the van this is the Boogie van they call it this is called a boogie man it looks like has a lot of layers of paint on it very nice I like the trick photography beautiful pictures oh this is a fury beautiful beautiful Scott I got to give you credit buddy you do great work and by the way I'm going to put this calendar up in my shop for sure thank you Scott and of course thank you again for the F you sent me for Mike's questioner 300j they're installed they don't look any oil perfect you did the Finish touch on it and thank you very much and here's another one and this one is from the good old USA from the state of New York and this is from Kurt okay Kurt what did you get us I was in New York state I want to see uh the movie vanish your point on a big screen with Bob Ruben in New York City at the Museum of Modern Arts and let me tell you guys just to let you know that this is what it's all about Vanishing points forever you you guys want to get one of these books it's very simple you could get either online they for sale it'll be coming out in book stores in the future but this is something very special and I just wanted to show you guys something if you guys wondered whose car this is it's in the book everybody knows and this is my personal car if you read it buy the book you guys it's a great book you know I got it I haven't finished reading it yet there's a lot to read everything about the movie kaasi and the car which is the star in the movie it's all in here you guys so get it online it's a hard cover it's about 600 Pages vanage your point forever so now back to Kurt with the uh mail we got here I got it I got it don't wor wow this is an oldmobile 442 old mobile cutless and you can tell it's a real 442 the inner skirts are red that's the way they came from the factory okay this is the gentleman that had an issue with the car and he wanted to send it up to my shop hi Nick I'm a longtime follower of your channel thought you might like a little wallpaper this is my 1972 W3 442 I ordered it brand new and still have it it's now 11 to1 compression ratio with Forge internals balance and blueprinted block is decked and the head shaved and cleaned up and Bows a bit better valves seats and guys it has adjustable valve train with custom ground flat taet close to 1970 w30 numbers has the stock w and z HP factory exhaust manifolds but polished internally transmission is the number matching original old W series turbo 400 but now rebuilt at hudes transmission it has pipes full stainless steel 2 and2 in exhaust system on it with a grite with a granatell electric cutouts just to make my wife happy I have had more muscle cards than I had honestly remember without writing them down and from most manufacturers I just have a 72 now getting getting too old this will probably be for sale in the spring I really enjoyed the w31 on the dyo and I can tell you there is a lot more in that little engine to be had with some very simple reasonable modifications I watch your show from just south of your border Phoenix New York I'll be watching for the next one hoping this year to take a ride and stopping by to say hello thanks Nick Kurt and Debbie Kurt and Debbie I want to thank you it is a beautiful restoration from what I see here and I heard that you guys were saying that maybe you had an issue with something and you did mention it on a comment if you do wish contact me if I can if you know if you can't solve the problem you can't fix it let me know and I'll help you out if I could help you over the phone give me a call Kurt debie thank you very much and we saved our last one for the furthest one away and this one is Martin who lives in Ontario and right now he's in the uh cold weather he's living in Biz Central America so Martin if you're watching I got your package I love the beautiful snaps you got here from bise and apparently you sent me a flag from bise so let's open it up cuz I know I do not have the flag of bise here in my shop dear Nick and team it was a pleasure to meet you in person last month and a tour of your shop as promised here is a flag from our winter home country of bise looking forward to seeing you in my 1970 Dodge cornet RT in the springtime all the best keep warm Martin and Sarah Jane Forester okay let's open up the flag here it is the flag of bise yep I sure don't have this flag very nice and here we have it thank you Martin and Sarah Jane the flag of B and I want to thank everybody for watching us from all over the world as you guys can see we have flags from all over the world we are globally like I said earlier and I want to thank you for watching our channel here on Nick Gage and don't forget to subscribe and like and I love you guys thank you very much and you guys if you look down Bel en the video we have a whole bunch of merchandise that you guys can buy so whatever you like buy it love it wear it and enjoy it and help spread the word of mix garage and if you have some time check out our patreon page we have extra content and you guys can watch it and take it from there and we'll see you next [Music] time oh

Channel: Nick's Garage

Views: 56,960

Keywords: Hemi, Nick Panaritis, Nick's Garage, Indy Auto, Engine Builder, Dynamometer, 440, six pack, mopar, Chrysler, plymouth, dodge, classic car, muscle car, charger, Carburetor, Dyno room, hemi, MOPAR, Big Block, Road Runner, 1969, Drag Racing, Chevy, Bow tie, Classic, Antique, Big three, Father, Son, 426, heads, valves, horsepower, Chevrolet, Dual Quad, Tune, Dream Car, Long ram, Letter series, torque monster, Shaker, Rocker noise, Plymouth, K Tool, Atlas Equipment, build, engine build, 541 hemi

Id: EzD4Ul6gf6I

Length: 69min 4sec (4144 seconds)

Published: Mon Feb 19 2024