Bounty by Constructo Part 8 Framing Windows

Video Statistics and Information

Video
Captions Word Cloud
Reddit Comments
Captions
g'day and welcome back to my channel now as you can see i've been moving ahead in leaps and bounds with the bounty and all the planking is now done on the port side yep all that top layer now this video won't be about that final layer of planking because i've got something else to show you but that will be next time and i'll show you i've put in the stem the the kills gone in the um the stern post and i've done you know i've even done planking underneath here but what i want to talk about is here the aft the transom if you like now i didn't have this on for the planking i removed it completely because it was really going to get in my way i knew i'd knock it off i'd break it you know like with anything building kits i don't add stuff that pokes out until the very end so that wasn't there it wasn't even part of the build so i could then turn my bounty over and i could do all the planking and i knew that i wouldn't be banging on a little piece here and wrecking it but i got to this part and i built it as per the kit here's a photo but i really wasn't happy with that and even one of the comments i had through my patreons was it looks cartoonish and it was so i did this doesn't that look a lot better huh what do you think of that would you like to know how i managed to accomplish that it isn't terribly difficult it's a little bit fiddly and through trial and error i found there was a method that made it a lot easier and less stressful so if you're interested in that hang in there roll the music [Music] before i could work on the transform of the mountie i needed a way to hold it so that i could easily get to everything so i came up with this method using a couple of pieces of string and a peg now what i did was the peg goes in the hole there and that won't come out it'll hold and the strings are set exactly at the right length so that when i place my bounty down and then peg it to my cutting mat on my cutting board i've got there it fits perfectly and it holds in place and it won't go anywhere i mean as long as i'm not too rough with it so that is my jig let's get on with the build to make these little windows because i'm doing it the hard way i'm doing it after i do the other method i've blacked out over the top of the previous acetate which nicely fitted across all windows and i had to actually cut the shapes out so i had to measure them up and roughly make shapes to fit in there didn't have to be too worried they weren't perfect because obviously i'm going to frame so the framing is going to hide a little bit of the edges so don't worry about that now for the framing i've used actually the same piece of wood that was behind all of this that came with the kit so this was actually the piece of wood that had the hole cut in it for up for the windows so i simply cut that into just over one millimeter wide which approximated the photos that i saw now to do the inner parts they need to be a lot thinner so i need to go to half millimeter and i had these planks which were for the top layer and these are half millimeter thick so that is just perfect for me to make a little strip again of about one millimeter and that's not that hard to do very gently running along and um there you go so i now have that i'll need to sand that because that will be a bit rough on the edge so what i'm going to use is a nail file which is handy because it's it's reasonably flat and i can place it down and then i can just simply run my strip along it which will give me a fairly good cleanup it doesn't need much because that that um line that i cut with a knife should be pretty strong yeah it's not too bad and i can always do a bit of a uh a bit of a check just to see if anything needs to catch so i'm working a very small little matchstick size piece here so um try and get as smooth as i can with um with the cut i've made on this one it's a lot harder to get this this smooth it's really trying to um take the furries off is quite hard but you can sort of get it done just drag it through shouldn't be too bad because using the knife i've cut a fairly straight edge and anyhow if they are wrong they kind of show up you only make entire little pieces alright so we have the pieces we need now we've got to do the frame now you could use rule and measure all this and and do it that way yeah you know even using one of um one of these sort of things you could do all that and it usually ends up wrong it's rather strange that all that measuring it often you've got to do it two or three times anyway this is the nature of wood wood's very flexible very very malleable things change and what you think is precise measurement doesn't always work out so what i found worked best was if i just simply lay the piece in its hole so it's pushing into whatever gaps are there and then using the side as a guide score that score is easy to find because i can just run my knife along until i find it there we go now i'm not going to do beveled edges because it's so tiny doing things like that is next near impossible so now my little piece should if it's going to cooperate it should friction fit in there unfortunately it does slide out a bit so yeah there's a bit of a bit of angling to do now there's a good reason that i want that to friction fit because all the other bits i'm going to put in i want them hard up so there's going to be quite a lot of tension in this when it all goes together so making sure that that piece is as hard in that hole as possible and it's really not you know any light bumps not going to knock the whole thing out of shape is really important now i've gone all the way along the bottom and i've done that consistently with with the way i do this method because horizontal lines to my eye need to be perfect vertical lines are all going to wobble and go different angles that's fine so we can get away we've got a little bit of leeway when we're trying to put things in with our verticals but our horizontals need to match the planks and they need to be level so that's why i'll go end to end with my horizontal all right i'm going to glue that in there now a bit of glue on the waist toothpick and over the top oh no i already didn't make a big mess this works believe me over the top and rub it in so this thing is pretty well friction fit so a little bit of pva white wood glue and it is going to sit there perfectly and afterwards i'll give this whole thing a sand which will remove any glue residue so that's my first psn so i'll now continue using that same method to do the rest of the frame the outside frame and then we'll work on the inside [Music] the whole reason of gluing those as you go and making them as friction fit as possible is to make this a strong sturdy frame so when we put in the um the cross pieces they can actually push up hard as hard as i need to without the whole thing going out of shape when i first did this i just tried to dry fit the whole thing which was quite a nightmare and even just gluing the frame and then basically trying to dry fit all the middle pieces again too difficult i've cottoned on the tube put a piece glue it put a piece glue it and that was the best way to make this arrangement without you know going insane because everything was coming loose now again i would rest that across there work out basically where it's got a lie flip it on its side and then i can measure off against the frame and just score if i'm lucky hopefully this little piece is going to fit there we go just need to jiggle it a little bit ideally it should be half one side and half the other side so it takes a you know a bit of a bit of a jiggle to get it there okay and probably a little bit further up so okay so that's basically it i've still got adjustment after i've glued that's the beauty of this is that the pva white wood glue is quite forgiving and i'll now glue this again over the top and yes it will wobble a bit over the top that's why i've eyeballed it first to go well okay if i made it just a touch longer i sanded off just a little bit too much when i adjusted the size before so the idea is to have a flying line is going to run all the way through so that the um the windows have the appearance of a continuous shape so i think that works we can we can test that with um something straight and go all right well from there does that yes it does that's good so that does go across from that one to that one so i think i'm pretty right there um it might just need to come up or a tiniest bit here without messing it up i've messed it up as you can see this method allows me quite a bit of financing okay um have i got that directly across from there guess i have and that's midpoint there i'm going to go with that because i can mess around with this for hours but i should have a midpoint there at a midpoint there and i have a nice line of flow so it's just repeating the process now i cut all the other pieces and i measure them and i cut them and i put them into place [Music] so and now i have my frames horizontal lines all in and they're setting and i've tried to get them as tight as possible let me show you their bottom really nice and tight but my top one was just it was perfect until i sanded a bit off it so these are the tolerances and this thing even if you bother to measure it and try and put them in you know the same sort of issue so honestly resting up and cutting is getting very very close and then you're only like a micro millimeter off with a little bit of a sand now the hard ones are going this way now ideally they should all be the same size but it doesn't always work out that way because here i've got from there to there but this side it's just ever so slightly smaller so they're going to get smaller as they go across but in theory they should be equal for any section i've measured cut and filed to shape two tiny little pieces which hopefully won't drop on the floor this time now say this is fiddly is an understatement so there's one so they just friction fit and here is two now the trick here of course is to get them equal thirds and parallel to the sides once you've got the first one all the others have to line to it so oh it's not quite right isn't it that's looking about right because that would be a line parallel to there will be a line parallel to there that's not bad and we'll have a little bit of wriggle room as we glue anyway so um let's glue those two in before they move any further and then i'll get on and i'll measure and put in the rest now always check that that hasn't moved out of place no that's better sitting hard against it it's just a matter of very fine tolerances and measuring and tiny bits of sanding until they fit perfectly and if you're patient to take your time they'll go in the beauty is having this rig arrangement so that i'm working basically directly over and i can see what i'm doing and i can lean down into it and place the pieces so okay time for the last one the last couple of these is because you can really push down hard and get them to friction fit um you you know because you're basically pushing against everything else in fact then it locks the whole frame in and that's the beauty of getting this as tight as possible it's less likely to fall out and fall to pieces if it's nice and tight anyway so the glue is just really reinforcing so last one hold that all in place rest up hard against the frame and make my mark i couldn't really push it too hard when i was doing the other ones because you knock everything over and things do come loose and things do fall out and you do have to adjust and it does drive you crazy but um by the time you're on your fifth window you know exactly how to cope here it goes look at that i actually got it i think i've got it i'm not going to fiddle with it i can at least glue that and if i need to i can adjust it on a little bit um it doesn't look too bad at all slightly out at the top now i'll probably bugger the thing now yep that'll do good and and the firmness in it now that i can feel it's holding everything in place so i know my other little pieces won't wobble the beauty is too if i notice now anything's moved i can adjust it and i've already gone through and tweaked a few just that tiniest bit but i look i've got it it um it has some imperfections but they are so tiny i probably see them those of you with eagle eyes will see them what you can do now is now that it's all nice and firm and things are not going to um as soon as you put the glue on wobble away is we can go and add some extra glue because this stuff will disappear anyway it's fairly easy to lightly sand off so there we are that should keep that frame together so we just leave that now at least for a few hours to set then if you're very careful with the sandpaper and you very gently rub you'll take a few high spots off if there's any glue lumps but they basically won't be you can also come back and clean up because like in here i've noticed there's a little stray little thing there so you know you can do a bit well that one's a bit loose too so there we are some of them haven't set as well as i thought they would have so i'll just give you a bit more glue but the beauty of the stiff frame or keeping it tight is um things just don't they won't fall out you know if you try to measure this up cut all your pieces glue it together off the model put it on well good luck you might get away with a perfectly rectangular one where everything's straight 90 degree angles but with something with this with all the wonky angles honestly it's probably easier to do it the way i've done it even though it takes some time but at least you'll get a result that holds together fits in place and it's purpose fit so there you go that's how i made the windows on the stern of the bounty and there you have it i've placed in the little frilly bits they're little final pieces there of decoration uh i won't glue them in now because we've got a lot more wood work to do and then get this up onto the um the keel stand before i start adding things like that i'd hate to bump and wreck those plus they need to be adjusted perfectly to fit in with some scrolls which you've got to go up there but i think you can see where this is heading and how this window look is infinitely better to what they wanted you to do in the kit so i think this is a um a quite a useful improvement and i think it adds so much more detail and richness to this model so if you're building this kit you might like to have a go at um the same sort of thing that i've tried here see if you can improve your windows and give them you know a much more realistic look than those sort of cartoonish cut out lines that they supplied in the kit anyhow i hope you enjoyed this video i've really enjoyed doing this upgrade it took a long time it's not something you can do in a weekend it it took a few weeks work and i had to take my time and i had to learn the method hopefully with what i've shown you you might be able to do it a lot faster than i did because i had a lot of trial and error until i'd figured out that glue all the bits in as you go sort of trick anyhow that's it for now look um if you enjoy my videos please like comment subscribe do all those sort of things and if you really like to help me out on this channel so that i can give you more of these sort of videos then think about subscribing to my patreon page where from as little as a dollar a month you get to see these videos early and advert free and it really helps me out so i can produce content for my youtube channel anyway that's all i've got to say so it's goodbye from australia and it's huru from harry houdini [Music] you
Info
Channel: Harry Houdini Models
Views: 5,288
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: Constructo Model Ships, Building a Wood model, Building a wood ship, Detail scale windows, adding more detail, wooden kit construction
Id: uSJ6Zk5XEvQ
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 22min 27sec (1347 seconds)
Published: Sun Apr 25 2021
Related Videos
Note
Please note that this website is currently a work in progress! Lots of interesting data and statistics to come.