Bona Waterborne Finishes - Application Tips

[Music] hey everyone welcome to this month's webinar on waterborne finishes i'm todd schutte with bona e-learning team and i'm d linstein with the tech and training team what dee and i are going to go over today waterborne finishes really it's it's bonus bread and butter and bread and butter for a lot of our contractor customers out there it's one of the things that we really do the very best so dean and i are going to cover a couple different topics one you know what makes bone a different than all the other competitors out there then dee's going to cover how do i how do i choose you know bono's got so many different finishes there's so many different water board finishes out there how do i choose what's best for my customer and what to push then we're going to go to some demo videos then we'll be back for some live q a but first you know one of the questions we get all the time in the schools is what does make bona best why are you guys different why should i use you and there's some good competitors out there but i still think there's uh several things that bona does better than anybody else which makes our products better than anybody else one is we're the only waterborne finnish manufacturer that i know of that has our own reactors in particular one for polyurethanes and one for isocyanates it's a big investment on the r d and production side for bona but we think it's well worth it because it lets us make products specifically focused and built from the ground up just for hardwood floors that means we can make our own base resins we don't have to wait for dow or basf or bear chemical one of those big manufacturers to come out with a resin that maybe we can make into a hardwood floor finish you know there's so many different variables that you're looking at in a resin like that that sometimes they have it sometimes they don't but what i like about what bona does is building those base resins from the ground up we can attack those different variables right from the get-go and not hope that we can take care of it later on and that's why you know we've come up with products like mega in 1995 that's still one of the very best one bonus selling products as well as the best single component products out there and then traffic in 1998 and if we look at that whole traffic family now it's really unique to bona with traffic traffic hd traffic anti-slip traffic naturale you know really covering that that upper echelon of finishes how you need for them to perform and react and and apply so that leads me into the other thing i think we do really well and that's formulating overall especially on flow leveling into foaming packages because it doesn't do us any good are you any good if we come up with a really good finish you know really the performance is outstanding on the floor but it's difficult for you to put down you know you've got to put it down in exactly the right conditions floor has got to be absolutely perfect or this product is isn't going to go down and look nice but bonus so good at our flow leveling into foaming packages not just from the initial formulation of that product but in tweaking it with every batch to make sure it's optimized for you guys when you get it out in the field and that just leads us into those formulating innovations again like mega like traffic where with traffic when we came out with it in 98 it was three years before a competitor even came up with a product that was even close to being similar why it's because again those big chemical manufacturers didn't have a base resin that was anything like we were making traffic with so we continue to do that we're still the only manufacturer that i know of that has their own reactors still the experts at flow leveling the foaming and hopefully coming up with innovative products for you guys so i think that's what makes bona best d as top mentioned we do have a number of different water-based products to choose from sometimes it can be a little confusing to the consumer as well as to the craftsmen but you know we classify our products as good better and best why not offer the best when it comes to selling your customer a water-based finish the traffic family of products are the best that we have and out there on the market uh traffic hd being the lowest voc the most durable uh excellent chemical resistance and a very fast drying fast dry and fast cure product so you don't want to put yourself in a position where you're having to apologize when you're not using the best products if it's not meeting the customer's expectations when it comes to a price difference i mean it's just pennies on the dollars when it comes from using whether it be a good better or best water-based product so always offer your customer the best product and allow them to choose you also would want to have a backup i mean we have other products in our good category which are great products whether it be mega one or omega you know for a you know maybe a residential remodel project or maybe light commercial so you know you definitely want to have that in your pocket but you know sell the advantages of the water-based products i mean from non-yellowing excellent chemical and scuff resistance you have fast dry time and fast cure times formaldehyde free products also you know the ability of not having to abrade between coats as long as it's less than 48 hours also greenguard certified so definitely take advantage of explaining the advantages to your homeowner and offer the best product out there todd do you have anything you want to add on that yeah only something you mentioned earlier that i thought was a great point on sometimes guys contractors get caught up in the cost of the products themselves but remember that the the homeowner right if you do your bidding right the homeowner is the one paying for the product and making that decision so it shouldn't matter if it's the cost of mega or it's the cost of traffic hd you're not really paying for it your customer is thanks todd now we're going to transition into our demo video where we're showing a couple different ways of rolling the product more and more guys as they attend training seminars some of our schools are wanting to learn how to roll products not all products out there are meant to be rolled but all of our water-based products roll extremely well so we'll move into the demo and after that we'll uh join you guys for some live q a all right now that we're on the job site what we're going to do is demonstrate two different technique todd shooty shooty's going to show you a technique where he's going to cut the floor up in sections as he's coating out the floor and the first technique that i'm going to demonstrate would be coating the whole room all at once and not having to cut it off one of the things you want to make sure you do is keep the floor clean which is one of our 12 commandments part of keeping the floor clean we made sure that we vacuum the floor thoroughly we also use the crevice tool for going around the perimeter that way we were able to pull you know any debris that may be up under the baseboards if there's any gaps that you'd able to get that pulled out of the from up under the baseboards and also we did a good job of tacking the floor and why would you want to keep the floor clean you really want to minimize having to abrade between coats unlike oil modified finishes where you have to braid between coats with boner water-based finishes and sealers there's no need to abrade unless you left that product sitting for more than 48 hours the more you have to abrade a floor and the more it powders up on you the more product you're taking off of the floor so our goal is to treat every coat like it's the first coat and that way we don't have to uh abrade between coats unless it's been more than four to eight all right now to the game plan so we've kind of discussed our game plan and how we're going to work the room and it's important that you you know if you have a helper you talk to your helper in regards to how you guys are going to work your way out of a room in regards to tape we have a tape line in one area what we're going to demonstrate what a dry line is and with the dry line as long as you go back over one board into where you've cut in the finish will have a chance to melt back into itself but depending on how that line how long that line will be left there uh you may feel that it's better for you just to put a tape line rather than trying to stop on the board seams all right so now we're going to mix our finish part of mixing your finish is making sure you get everything mixed up well which is one of our 12 commandments mixing the finish as well as straining your finish so i'll take a second to really mix our finish up get part a mixed up before we pour in our hardener you may want to use gloves for this you know different guys have different chemical sensitivities and we'll talk about that a little bit more when we start coating but you know the goal is is to keep the product in the jug and not on your hands so i'll pull the hardener in and after doing that just make sure you get all that down in there put my cap back on and now we're going to mix part a and part b up and it's important that you really start shaking this immediately it's a very reactive product once you pour the hardener in so you want to shake it different ways up and down side to side just get a good mix on there to make sure you get all that product mixed up alrighty good mix so now what we're gonna do is put our strainer in today we're going to use pantyhose as our prime as our secondary strainer you got your primary filter pantyhose is going to work as our secondary filter just going to stretch that over your primary filter stick it into the jug and trim off the excess now we're going to get the purest product coming out of this jug out of this water-based finish so we're going to let that sit for about five minutes and while that's sitting i want to talk about you know another part of keeping the floor clean whether you wear some you know a medical type booty to put over your shoes or whether you're going to coat in your socks as i'm going to do today or if you have special coding shoes then that will work good but again you want to keep that floor clean to minimize how much abrading you have to do after your first coat dries all right so what bobby and i are going to do is we're going to show you one technique of coating the whole room at one time instead of cutting the room up in the sections which is todd shooti's going to show you on the on the next demo um so we're going to work in thirds kind of keep working the whole room back and then he'll jump around we'll kind of coordinate and talk to each other as to where he's going to go next as i'm coating out of the room but before we get started coding what we want to talk about is applicator prep with the roller it's important not to have your roller too saturated with water because the more water you have coming out of this roller especially on a matte sheen it's going to show shiny streaks as you work your way out of a job you're going to want to really thoroughly rinse out your roller keep it dampened but spin it free of excess water bobby's going to be using the cut in pad and with the cutting pad same thing you really want to defuzz it first whether you're just kind of wiping it down with your hand some guys will take tape and use on the different applicators to help defuzz those applicators again bobby's going to cut in along the wall and one thing i'm going to do once bobby gets going is i want to make sure i get my roller nice and saturated with finish that way if i don't i'm not waiting on the the roller to pick up that excess product i want to make sure it's nice and saturated so that when i get going also um you know i feel that rolling is probably one of the better techniques it's not the only technique but one of the better techniques because of how it lays the finish out my personal opinion you can really get a nice almost table top finish with the roller because of how much it lays the finish out all right so he's cut in i want to make sure i get my roller nice and saturated the purpose of the cutting guy is really just to get as close to the you know baseboards as possible so that the roller doesn't have to uh hit up against the baseboard so again i'm rolling over where he cut in just to make sure that that film build thickness is going to be the same and now he'll pour me a puddle up across the wet end area i'm going to set my applicator down that way i'm not pulling it across the room and possibly having drips and he'll just work right around that and depending on the thickness of this pore line it's going to determine how far back i'll pull the roller so starting over here where you first cut in along the wall i'll just kind of come down and up the puddle is an indicator of where i want to get past so i dropped my roller right behind the puddle a little bit of pressure to help pull that puddle back no pressure going forward and you just repeat now with the roller the cage side is the heavy side so i always want to make sure i'm working towards the cage side a little bit of pressure coming back no pressure going forward getting past where he cut in now you can roll you know as slow as you want but one thing you'll notice the slower you move this roller that puddle will just kind of sit there on the roller so you want to have a nice smooth technique and you also want to have a nice feathering technique to feather past where you roll if you notice you had a harder line before you get too far going you could step here and just lightly roll across the grain if you didn't do a good job of uh your with your feather technique once i get halfway down the room what bobby will do is he'll start to pour into that wet area and i'll switch and put the roller on the other side of my body that way i can see what i'm getting ready to walk into in regards to what he had already cut in so there noticing a little line there so i'll just kind of come feather that out one thing you may want to do is move yourself further away from the wall when you go with your pore line that way you leave yourself enough room to feather back past your puddle area all right now once i get close to the wall what i'll do is i'll flip my roller over try not to put too much pressure and then feather out that run now i'll come back over here bobby's already cut down the wall so again i want to make sure i roll over where he's already cut in feather up and then keep the same process going a nice feathering technique is really important because if you have a hard lift up like similar to that you'll end up leaving a hard stop line so you can roll right back over it you don't have to pick your roller up on the back pull but you always want a feather on the forward pull push push pull again dropping your applicator right behind the puddle so that you can get past the puddle halfway down the room now i'll switch to the other side of my body that way i can see where he's cut in at a little bit of pressure coming back no pressure going forward if you don't put any pressure what happens that roller would just kind of go over and leave that heavier spot there so that's why it's important just a little bit of thumb pressure don't be too concerned if it looks like it's a little stimply these products level and flow out great but if you have too much airflow and you're putting it down too thin you will have an issue there that stimple will dry right into the floor so bobby cut in there cut in there so no air flow at all with water-based products sometimes you're working in a commercial application you may not be able to control shutting down the unit so in that case what you want to do is probably you want to be towards the lower end of the coverage rate so that you can get it down thicker that way it has a chance to level and flow out before it has a chance to set up and that's when you can't control your airflow so what i'll do is to kind of help bobby out i'll kind of come over here and put a little excess product down there and then i'll jump back over here so you can move around the key is not to leave your line sitting too long so if i need to come across here just to kind of keep that line wet you can do that all right so right now to leave us a opening to get out of the room i'm just going to shorten my uh pulls i'm going to go down the wall this will be the next area bobby's going to cut in just give him a little bit of product there as i'll come back in and now blend these two rooms together so robbie's going to reach right up against the baseboard and then i'm just going to roll over again where he just cut in make sure i use the feathering technique and if bobby if you can just cut around that threshold for me just right around the door i'll come over here move this line a little bit again the reason for me to get back into this line is just to keep it from staying too wet and now bobby will kind of go around that jam as well excellent sir all right so i'm gonna come down here so what i'm gonna do is i'm gonna bring this puddle into the closet and after about three or four pulls then what i'll do is i'll go across the grain to feather where i stopped up against the wall and just kind of feather that out lightly come back in here pull into the closet so i noticed that my applicator is starting to get a little bit noisy so what i'll ask bobby to do is just to pour me a little bit more into my puddle along here as i come and work around this door jam so if you can give me a little bit more product key is is to be comfortable sometimes water-based finish can drive a guide nuts but you just as long as you feather everything out you'll have a chance for the product to level and flow out and what i'm gonna do in this particular room is i'm a roll cross grain one of the nice things about rolling is you know you can roll in multiple directions although we prefer you stay with the grain as much as possible depending on the layout of your house you may need to go across grain and you normally want to do that in an area where it's not too visible so depending on where your windows are you know where you have walls are is a good area to where you can cross and the product will level and flow out just fine so i'm just going to roll over all areas where bobby had cut in come down this wall take my excess juice and put it back up there alrighty so i think i have enough product here to where now i can start rolling across grain i'll do it here feather up come down working in a tighter space you got to make sure you have a nice little pendulum type motion so that you're not beating the wall up and then i'll come back here and lightly feather since there's excess product i'll pull it back feather up and now i'll jump to this side and do the same my applicator is really saturated so i'm not asking bobby to pour any more product out at this point now i'll come here cross it across that wall too and now i'll work my way out of the bathroom here feather up again going across grain you just want to make sure you have enough product so that it has a chance the level will flow out and then bobby will cut me through the doorway here here we are just going to work a section at a time and go back to working with the grain of the wood again i'm going to set my applicator there always setting it with the uh the grain of the wood and not cross grain i'm just going to go roll across where he cut in i'll roll across this front area so in this case we're not using a tape line what bobby's going to do is um when we're ready to you know get out of this area here we're just going to cut a what we call a dry line stand on the bore seam as much as you can and then as we start to come down the hallway we'll join back into this room and i'll demonstrate that uh once we get to that point so again i'm gonna roll over all areas that bobby cuts in that bobby's gonna pour me out some product and we'll continue to work our way back down this room all right so we have a dry line here and once we get back down into this area bobby will make sure he has enough product on his applicator to where he'll cut one board back into that dry line and then that'll allow us to work our way out of this room so this is one job site so as we go into the next room we do have a tape line here in which the tape line will be peeled up immediately after cutting up to the tape line the reason for that the longer you leave that tape there it'll cause the finish to want to develop a hard edge by peeling it right away you give the finish a chance to really level and flow out to ease out it's not going to go pouring into the next board but it'll have more of an eased edge versus a hard edge rolling down a hallway is really a great technique because with the t-bar it can be a little tricky whether you use the s-turn method or you try to coat sections of the hallway and then you end up tight rope in a smaller area where you're using a s-turn method but you know if you've perfected that method and it works for you then keep doing what you do all right feather up i'll come over here further down feather up and now i'll just pull my way down the hallway roll my way also some guys will like wrapping a towel around the bottle to keep from the drips you know dripping onto the floor if you pour over the top that may be a good idea to have a towel wrapped around but if you pour off the side you're less likely to get as much drippage if any at all and so on the tape line side bobby i'm going to have you just go ahead and cut all the way down that tape line and then what we're going to do as soon as you do that i'm going to have you pull that tape right away so the key with bobby cutting into the area that has already started to flash off is that he's putting enough product down to where now i want to make sure i just stay on the wet side of where he's cutting in and not get back up into that room which will cause that roller stimple look to happen if i get into an area that's starting to flash off already so once we get to where we're working out i know i told you guys this was one job site and that's a separate room we're going to work out of this doorway here and what we don't want is to leave you know a lot of debris so bobby's going to cut in unlike the snowplow tool where you're pulling a lot of product across the room here you're laying the product out but you always want to check that last area that you're getting ready to coat to make sure you get a nice pour of some fresh product and you know if there's another type of floor here then bobby will be able to kind of clean this up make sure he has enough product and he can feather up to the carpet or whatever type of floor we're meeting there the method i'm going to show you is rolling in sections which we find is really helpful one if you're working by yourself or two maybe if you're working a larger cut up house and stuff you know instead of having both guys working together maybe guys are getting in each other's way to spread them out where they can work uh alone but still be really effective in getting the finish and stuff down and then obviously having a game plan working together to get out of the house nobody gets finished into a room or a corner or anything like that but this can be real helpful just as far as maintaining full control over that job and i'll show you what i mean because we're just going to teach you to code a section and then you're going to move back and you're going to coat another section all we have to worry about is working that path down but i'll even show you if you get stuck and all of a sudden you got to just clean up that finish and go do something else and then come back how do we take care of that in the middle of the room and not leave marks in the floor but having a game plan is still important so obviously i've only got this portion left but still if i had a closet or something like this where i don't want to jump in and out and have that you know pulling me off of my regular flow so anything like this that i can where i've got a nice transition across there i'm gonna go ahead and coat first so i'll go ahead and pour some of the finish down we'll finish out this closet i'll pull a dry line at the doorway then i can decide if i want to you know roll this probably not because it's a closet it's not going to matter if it exactly has the same thickness of finish as the rest of the floor but if it was a bathroom if it was a pantry something that's more visible that people are actually walking into then i'd want to make sure that i do that so just being careful when i get up towards my edge where i want to pull my dry line that i don't get out into the main body of the floor too much and that i do have you know a nice coat even though it's a closet we want to do a good job everywhere so i'm going to make sure that i've got you know a nice even coat and then i can set my roller if i'm by myself i can set it again just inside the line there and now i'm going to come up and i'm going to try to follow a board seam as much as i can but if i can't you know just so i'm going in a relatively straight line down that floor for my dry line and of course looking back across my work to try to make sure that i'm not leaving any any missed spots and i want to try to marry those up as i go down the floor here so now what we're going to do is again i'm just going to teach you to roll a section and when you've got that figured out you'll soon start to see how you can really keep control of that job so i'm going to pour the finish out kind of encircling the section that i want to do and of course across the headboards where i'm up next to the trim work and stuff i want to pour finish out and cut in just like they were doing you know back in this room here once i get out then and i'm just doing sections all i will do is pour a little across the front and then i'll pull some of that up the sides and then roll the middle but easier to see once i get going so you kind of want to pick you know where you want to go so i'm going to go out and try to follow this board line all the way down so i come back over to where they cut in and had the tape line so i've kind of got my first section figured out here go ahead and cut in like we have a some trim work up here and then when i get to where they had the tape again i want to take my cut in pad and i just want to follow it up and overlap a little bit onto where they've already put finish okay i don't need to go way over on it but i don't want to miss anything either but really again i'm just trying to follow that board line down and make sure i've got finish on everything and then same here when i come across to this side got enough finish in my cut in pad and i can bring this up here now because the cut in pad as dee and bobby were showing the cutting pad puts it down differently different rate than the roller so i am going to want to come back and whether it's rolling you know where i cut in and like d was showing against my trim work up front to roll across that so i make sure that that has the same application rate or when i'm rolling up the sides and if i get a little too much finish i can just simply push it back out to to where i'm going to need it but if i'm rolling up the sides just overlapping a little i don't want to get over into that too much because then i could start leaving some stipple marks if it's just started to set up then i want to roll up this side as well and then we're just rolling the middle so what i like to tend to do is just slide my applicator slide the roller up behind my puddle and pull it out just to kind of get stuff spread out in that area and then i can go back and run my feathering motion back across the floor and with the cage side leading because that's the heavier end like d said so i'm i'm feathering on this side of the applicator except when i get to this side then i may want to turn it over follow it a little more just down that line so i have a better line of view okay so that's my section so again now what i'm going to try to do is i'm just going to pour a little more finish out across i'm going to take my cutting pad and set the edge of my next section trying to stay along that board seam as much as possible then just leave your cut in pad there move back to your roller start spreading product out and you may when you swing it around your puddle put a little pressure on it to help pull that puddle back otherwise sometimes especially if the puddle's too thick you might float a little over the top of it and then when i get everything kind of rolled out in that section and i'm just going to go back and do all my feathering strokes and this kind of shows again how i can keep you know really good control now over my job site or each section as i'm going if something would happen and all of a sudden i've gotta i've gotta end this you know something happened in another room or i get an emergency phone call something happens where i've gotta stop what i'm gonna do is i'm gonna go put my roller up right now i'll just set it here i'm going to put my roller up and i'm going to finish a real fine feathering stroke with my cut in pad just out into the floor and you can consider this kind of chasing the grain you know with your applicator as opposed to when we're doing it with a scraper or whatever when we're doing a repair so i wanted to spread this real thin out into the floor and then i'm going to have those little fingers on the end that kind of blend in with my grain pattern so i don't have any problem just walking away from this now in fact we'll do that i'll start another section here we'll leave that right as it is and then we'll come back when we do our next coat tomorrow and blend all that in actually we're just going to go over it with another coat and you won't see any of those marks in the floor so again usually i want to try to finish my path all the way through and then if i have to cut off that's what i want to do there because once i've got this line established again it doesn't matter if this thing's a little dry fully dry one day two days i can come back to it whenever and run my cut-in pad along the side and fully blend everything in and again if i'm in the middle of the the job and i've gotta cut off in the middle of the path then i'm just going to feather it out with my cut in pad into the floor and go on from there okay so we're cutting down the sides establishing the perimeters of our puddle then taking our roller and just rolling everything out when we get to the end with this next section like d was showing too i'm going to be using the roller cross grain and why the roller is such a great tool is because it doesn't like the cut in pad and like your t-bar it doesn't pull through the finish but it just lays the finish straight down so it doesn't matter it shouldn't matter if i'm going this way on the floor cross grain on the floor 45 degrees on the floor it's putting it straight down everywhere i'm at and just to be a little safer on this side if to make sure i don't leave any hard marks i'm just going to feather out this side of it as well so the roller is really going to be your best tool choice for applying on difficult patterns different parquet patterns uh where your herringbones chevrons you've got stuff running in all different directions and with a t-bar and or cut-in pad or brush you know you're not going to have any choice but to go cross grain anything that pulls through the finish is going to tend to leave more of a mark where anything that i use that is just putting this finish straight up and down is going to have a lot less of a tendency to leave marks in the floor so when i get to the end of my path again i can pull this down i can cut in all the way around set my cut in pad there in case a little starts leaking out i can easily feather that out and then like dee was doing in the room other room i'm just going to pull all this down work a little back and forth but as a best practice even though we said that you can use this you know cross grain and we'll do it right here i'll feather everything out cross grain as the best practice anytime that we can of course we want to follow the grain of the wood but i'll just go ahead and feather out everything here cross grain you can see that's kind of where i started and if i want to i can go ahead and feather my straight line out okay so now i've got one path done i've got my little uh halt area right there but now where do i go i could start here and work back the other way or i can always come back to the front and start here now depending on where my door is at so we're going to pretend the door is over here so i'm going to do a little narrower path here so that i don't work my way into a corner and that i have a little path still to work out you know this is going to start drying and setting up a little bit you may not want it to get too dry but i think regardless of how dry it gets my method is going to be the same in that i'm just going to overlap a couple hairs from my cutting pad and let that kind of be my my guide of making sure i've got finish on both sides of that that board seam and then i'm coming back up and i like to turn it on the long section of my cut-in pad and then again just draw it down draw it down i'm overlapping just a little bit you know an eighth of an inch just so i know i'm also getting on the other side of that board seam if you get over too much and it starts to drag just depending on how dry that other side is you know then i may get some drag marks in the floor so i just want to overlap it enough so that i've got finish on both sides the other thing is i'm not worried if i've got some slight misses there either because i'm putting on another coat and what i'll do on my next coat is if for some reason i can clearly see what board seam i ran a path down the coat before i'm simply going to move over one more board so that now instead of this seam that i'm trying to make sure i've got covered with finish it's going to be this one or this one so it's easy to adjust then between coats of finish just to make sure you're getting everything covered just as dee was doing on his side especially when i'm next to trimwork if i think i've you know left some heavy marks up against that wall as long as i've got the space right i can walk over here make one run just down this wall if feather it up and get rid of those heavy marks and then i can always if i've got a bunch of finish down here i need to spread it out a little bit i can do that as well okay so that's working a section so i'm going to go ahead and just continue working sections all the way back down here when i get to here i'll probably turn around work it back into these tie these together and then i'm going to work this smaller section all the way out the door again if i happen to get to a spot and i didn't pull my cut in far enough down i can take my roller and just be careful with it and i mean i'm doing the same thing anyway even if i've cut down this side you know i'm going to come back i want to roll over the top so i get that same type of coverage so i can just carefully roll it down that board seam and take care of it that way all right so if i've got to turn around and do this section and come back just like dee was showing i may want to have a little puddle of finish here you know that's on tying in my wet area so i don't get a dry mark there and i can come back here and start down this side the other thing i could do there is what i did right here i could just excuse me i could just feather that out into the floor and then tie it in when i come back but if i can i think it's a little safer to to run a puddle and you're only limited by the size of the section that you want to run by the length of the pole so if you get an extension pole you want to run longer sections you can obviously do that again the whole thing is just though keeping control over your job site and that area and make sure you're not getting too much out there where you can't control it and when i have no option to walk back you know across i always like to keep my first pull here a little narrow look out where i've got finish so that i can definitely reach back across and make that little feather on my headboards if i need to and then if i do have a little streak i can always reach out and just pull it back as well and then like the show too with the other method you can work it you know from both sides you just want to again be wary of your any feathering that needs to be done anywhere where you may be leaving a a heavier mark and make sure you go ahead and make your feathering passes to take care of those areas before you get too far away from them in our feathering is always like an airplane landing and taking off so no hard marks again if that puddle's been sitting there a little bit you may have to put a little pressure on it to draw it back in and also listen to your roller um it'll usually tell you you want it to make a little bit of noise but if it gets too noisy you got too much finish out there it's going to be sliding across the floor versus rolling and and or if it gets too dry it kind of gives you that feedback as well so again pretending that our door is down this way now i'm on my last run just use the you know use your light use your reflection of the finish where it's already been where it's wet where you can still kind of see that stipple sometimes you can even angle it a little bit like a snow plow like i got way too much finish along that side so if i need to i can angle this a little bit out the wall just to ease that puddle back over this way then as d said when we get to the end one i want to have a little plan what am i going to do with my applicators as i get outside so we usually like to have a little paint pan outside the door you may also need a plastic garbage can if you get way too much finish you got to take your cut in pad and get the extra finish off of there and then of course if it's a key transition point which most doorways are going to be i want to make sure that all the dirt and debris everything is cleaned up there and that this is a real clean application in that doorway so i can pull down to establish my my final section if i need to i can take my cut in pad and finish this up here but i always like to then dip back into the room with the roller again just because the different application rates and the different maybe even slight look you can get with both of them and finish up with the roller across everything but you might have to finish up right at this threshold obviously with your your cutting pad okay so that's rolling in sections again i think it's a great way to maintain full control over the whole job site when you're rolling i can jump in and out of a room if i finish that path if i don't finish the path i could have two guys working in separate areas of the house just a good technique to know how to to work working in sections down the floor as opposed to trying to do the the whole floor at one time when we're done with our applicators obviously we're going to wash them off rinse them off real good squeeze them out then we're going to put them in baggies gallon baggies and if it's gonna be too long before we get back to it uh we'll even put that bag in a freezer and freeze our applicators that way they're not gonna get moldy and mildewy in between applications if i've got several weeks or a month between before my next finish coat so take care of your applicators so they take care of you all right so we're back after an overnight dry dee and i are just going to talk about both sex and sections of the floor a little bit and typically our goal is going to be that we've kept the floor so clean um that all we have to do is tack it dry tack it or wet tack it put another coat on um but we're always going to walk the floor and some guys it'll be their best practice to always abrade before the last coat but because we know a coat of finish is so thin and we want to preserve all of that that we can so we think doing a better job of keeping the floor clean walking the floor just looking for you know pieces of debris hairs other uh finish film issues and taking care of those in a in a spot manner probably better for the overall floor but if that's your practice to just go ahead and you know lightly abrade the whole floor just to make sure you've got almost everything accounted for that's fine too so one of the things i want to talk about is when i was working in sections right and i said hey if you've got an emergency or something you got to end that section what are you going to do so what i did is i had taken my cutting pad and i just pulled real thin feather strokes down away from that edge and they were very difficult to find this morning and then i also did it on the other area of where i started pulled my next section down there then i feathered back that way so i've got a whole section in here that doesn't have a coat of finish on it it still has the coat of sealer but so what would i do to come back then and to restart working in sections well i'd simply pour the finish across where my feather marks are coming down i'd you know work my next section with the roller and everything else but then i'd take my cut-in pad and come around to this side and simply pull those really thin feather marks into this area of the floor that had already been covered and that is going to be a seamless invisible repair you're not going to see it um so that's how i would do that right but that again i like with the uh working in sections because i feel i've got total control even if i have to stop in the middle of a section in the middle of the floor i'm not concerned about having to come back restart that and not see any lines in the floor one place where i did have a line right where i'm working that section down and for the most part i did a good job just drawing the cut in pad down that board seam and not going over with the roller back onto the area where i had already coated but i just want to re-emphasize that point so there are a couple areas where we do have some some stipple over in the floor left by the roller because this side was starting to set up i got over into it with the roller the roller marks didn't flow out from that area so when you are working sections so if i've already done this one now i'm working this section just make sure you're pulling your cut in pad you know overlapping just a couple hairs on that thing over into that section get as close as you can with the roller but don't go over that mark over that board seam with your roller or you're going to chance leaving stipple in it all right so typically what we're going to do is just walk the floor before our final coat with some of these tools so we might have a block with a maroon pad on it maybe just a maroon pad itself maybe a diamond disc this one's 240 grit and these little nib files so this is a coarse nib file they're coming from the automotive industry they work great for taking out pieces of debris hairs because they won't affect the finish around it they'll only take out that uneven portion that's up above so here we have i don't know what it is uh a little piece of debris that ended up in the floor of course it's right in our doorway so we're going to take the nib file we're going to rub it down with that to take it out then we may take our maroon pad just rub that out a little bit more then we'll take a wet rag one to just clean up that other little dust but two that'll give us a little uh preview of what that repair is gonna look like if anything's gonna show up there if i went too deep went back down into finished stain or whatever but that looks good so these little nib files work great again maroon pad diamond maybe a block with a maroon pad and diamond or something on it as well all right so let's go back over to d now so as i walked this uh part of the condo there were three things that i noticed we had a heavy spot in our hallway where we didn't do a good job of a feathering up as we were rolling and so you have a heavy mark there and then the cutting guy in the bathroom was a little bit thin on his cut end and i didn't roll over it all the way so you notice the little thinner area in the corner of the bathroom so to fix those two areas you just really want to be as aggressive as you need to be to take down that film build thickness and depending on what abrasive you're using you're going to want to minimize that scratch so let's just say if you started out with a piece of 80 grit paper and then you would jump back down to maybe 100 grit and then you'll do maybe the diamond to minimize that scratch and then follow that up with the maroon pad so all you're doing is try to you're trying to knock down that film build thickness so that it it matches the rest of the floor without getting down into your sealcoat so what we have here is we have a hair that's in the finish and of course that didn't come from me but nevertheless it's in there and so as we walked it we saw the hair and we're going to do the same thing that todd showed over there we're going to use the nib file just to kind of remove that hair and then we'll go into some of our finer abrasives just to blend everything in so again the knit file you only push that in one direction and as you'll see it'll scratch the hair off without scratching the rest of the floor so once i got the hair removed then what i'll do is i'll come in with the diamond and just kind of go over it and then after the diamond i'll take a maroon pad and rub that over and then i'll take a wet rag again to remove the dust and to make sure that we don't have that in the floor any longer [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Bona Professional

Views: 9,891

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Id: OmJ7j1oubd4

Length: 55min 35sec (3335 seconds)

Published: Tue Oct 27 2020