BOMBING MAVERICKS RAW [1080]• DECEMBER 4th 2007

area forecast for the peninsula north bay and east bay high surf advisory along the coast until 4 p.m wednesday we used to wake up in the morning and uh look at the surf and go okay it's gonna be uh you know you look at it no it's 20 feet let's go somewhere and ride you know nowadays with the internet we're looking you know you can start to see a swell develop a week in advance and that starts the ball rolling for this swell i was in hawaii uh i was there for the yeti ceremony and um you know we've we hit the hype it already kind of started about how big this swell was and you know we knew tuesday was going to be the day at mavericks and that was because the internet had basically stayed stable as far as what the swell was going to be so i knew i had to be home on that monday night and i was and i got here and i had all my equipment ready to go and as soon as i heard the buoy readings and i knew it was going to be as big as it gets you know one of those sessions that you remember forever uh it's a pretty intense feeling at offshore booty 59 located 350 nautical miles west of point reyes winds southwest 14 knots gusting to 21 water temperature 59 pressure 1019.2 millibars she's 30 feet every 20 seconds pressure 1030.5 air temperature 56 water temperature 51. southeast fairland island was not available so i'm sitting next to the weather radio all night in my bed like every hour waking up and hearing the swell it's just ridiculous numbers so in the morning i i got up before before light got some joe and headed down to the launch room that's when i met up with ion and it was a trip kind of a foggy day kind of gloomy like almost horror flick status 6 34 26 minutes before 7 bay area weather today some rain this morning tapering off to showers in the afternoon highs in the lower 60s partly cloudy with a chance of more rain or showers tomorrow and earthy no visibility yeah it's pretty foggy it should be uh clearing up though you hear the swell last night yes crashing down pretty hard these four hopefully you don't need them put it that way yeah happy camper where's tim is he already out there it's pretty high on oh sight spooked stoked how about the sleepy how about the crowd what crowd we are the crowd nice to have some fun here get some good ones out there yeah i'm looking forward to it at all take it easy though yeah definitely play it safe man yeah but it's gonna be a pretty i'm amping so hard see out there all right yeah i met up with jesse and ion and put the ski in the water and we were just stoked i was like let's go game face on biggest biggest swell i've ever surfed in my life for sure i've never seen waves like that looked like a cartoon [Music] wow [Music] oh ah oh my god oh yeah [Music] so double up yeah oh [ __ ] deep on it [Music] oh [Music] wow pull the duck dive on that one getting big dude [Music] i think it'll still serve [Music] yeah it's coming so one of the big things that we had the strange swell direction but we also had i think it was swell produced fog because it was a fog that was locked down two feet visibility to eighth mile to half a mile to two feet visibility and i'm not a meteorologist but it seemed to me that the swell was actually creating a lot of that moisture and fog in the air on that day what happened was the wave action was so strong coming through mavericks that it actually cleared the fog out if you noticed above where we were it'd be like right above the ball would be like a little clear area when the biggest sets come you'd also you could see perfectly and then when as soon as a lull came in this fog would deceit back in again it was really trippy so you can see that the action on the reef itself was clearing the weather and actually i think the main reason why that fog was there was because of all the action in the ocean as i look back on it it was one of the most dangerous swells you could ever have mavericks being that you had no visibility you know the direction and the size the current i mean the current was going from south to north i mean everything about it was basically crossbar don't go don't go just another day another rescue they were closed like sinking under water i'm like you guys gotta call the harder patrol right now i'm not gonna be able to call you in we got a call earlier in the day it must have been around 9 30 that uh personal watercraft had broken down and we went out and uh on our 37-foot patrol boat elmar very v-hulled boat and uh ended up towing in this personal watercraft had a had an issue [Music] okay that was about as western direction you could possibly get at that size there's no way you get that size coming out of 265 it was just because it dipped and just was running just raw swells like a storm swamp that's what it was like because one of those really gnarly southwest storm swells that you get really close that you can't ride you look at it you're like we can't ride it it's like these you know 20 knots south winds this was smooth as silk but the same direction and so it was nuts it was nuts by far one of the most dangerous days ever mavericks [Music] [Music] yes yeah banner nice bomb danny it's like just trying to keep myself pulling out off the wave come on man come on have full conversations with myself do it do it no no don't do it go for it go for it i got wax on when it was good for me yeah how was that it was pretty good i was upside down underwater for sure a couple times this way a couple of times that way i'll look at this oh my god liquid cement dude my gosh yeah that morning of december 4th was quite um quite an emotional day it turned out to be and when i got up there i didn't have um all i had was my friend lance and he'd never been out there before so he was just uh he was amazed of the waves that you know were coming through and he's never seen waves like that i mean everyone that surfed out there for the first time just goes i can't believe there's actually waves like this in california so you know i didn't have anyone to tow with so i was just kind of jonesing watching all these guys just towing in towing and then you know i remember bremen and brown he said oh hell we'll tell you we'll tell you whatever because barney wasn't there i was finally just like i screamed hey let me try and um basically just my first wave i i didn't ride the board too much and i tried to to do a little check fade a little cuddy to like set up to you know back door it and my board just gave out oh no oh no and ended up in the lip oh [ __ ] i'm just thinking oh god no not right now on that first wave over the falls backwards on whatever you want to call it 55 foot wave and uh just remembering just going oh just stay calm stay calm that's always been my my my motto out there holy [ __ ] oh my god that was so good got really worked kind of tweaked my back came up i was all right you know i was still alive luckily was that pete asleep dude that was so gnarly dude that was the gnarliest wife i'd ever seen oh my god i think i was fleet it was that was so heavy dude that was so gnarly dude he was in the lip dude that was the heaviest thing i ever seen he was in the lip bro oh [ __ ] i've never seen anybody in that position going over the falls getting stopped out of a beating everybody thought he was dead it was not survivable sitting in that position but if anybody can survive something they'd probably [Music] flee all right [Music] oh that was so gnarly dude it's been 15 10 minutes since that wipeout still in shock dude i'm still in shock that was so gnarly i've never seen a person in the lift like that before ever i never seen anything like that shocking i just remember bremen saying one more one more okay so i just grabbed my board right away [Music] do you see that next wave you know backdoored the bowl ended up getting pretty barreled you know on a pretty good sized wave and when i was getting spit out the bottom dropped out so i'm getting spit out and the bottom drops out to like you know probably 15 feet just flying out of the barrel and just then hitting contact with the wave and then just falling right on my neck back wham donuts by that one and that was my second wave and um and so i you know i was pretty shooking up by then it's kind of almost over it you know because once you have a couple of bad wipeouts and you don't want to push your luck too much watch your head just oh [Music] me and john john are sitting on the ski and flee um the first one he tried to pull in and just got eaten and then he went and got to the bottom of this big one and he did like a pump with his chest and and um he's kind of stopped and the wave ran him over and he laid back and fell down and and i was like oh no and he got back up and made it around i don't know how you guys incredible surfer i don't know how he did that and um that was the two things that stood out in my mind uh the the two waves of flea the third wave burn said oh one more one more and this after i got beat and so i got the bomb a pretty good wave and it broke and and i kind of laid back and pulled it and made it around the section and and then after that i was done you know three waves and um i was that was enough for me oh oh he made it oh he didn't make it oh you didn't that was sick i never like to push my luck out there or be greedy or you know i mean if i feel like i've got enough waves that's fine i don't have nothing to prove to anybody you know i'm just gonna have a good time and you know make sure everyone's safe and i like being my lifeguard out there i like to watch people and make sure even if they're not my friend make sure they're safe oh my god [Music] he went to fade and dug a rail and went over the falls of 24 and five in a row got him and then he went straight back when we showed up uh bruhman no way everybody um a couple of the boys not too many guys 10 years it's really perfect no can do forget our paddle bars there's no way nathan freaking clothes a little out there on the paddleboard it's so hard isn't it there's no way it's west you cannot find it if there's a little roll in and you go way way out get super lucky you know nathan call might grab one but they're not going to mind if we're told because we're going to be towing it's gonna be low tide at two o'clock it's gonna go it's gonna be [Music] gigantic you got the gnarliest wave last year let's turn this around from the waterfall oh what you didn't no but you're that helpful they've also got the best one here and the best one at hawaii those better than what best barrel wow you see my nose job yeah i saw that sorry about that all right once you suck anyway did it sink what's this oh look at this one oh god dude that's so heavy [Music] wow oh my god what oh my god whoa that was a sick flip dude damn oh my god how the hell did you do that oh my god that was it seems like it's wanting to clear up [Music] nobody's got it i like [Music] shut us down perspective so jesse tell me what just happened or what's going on right now we're in the middle of the day 100 foot wednesday too so big it's soupy and kind of weird that was like jumbly all over the place multiple bowls coming out of the gray blackness no i was sick out there though you towed it how was it it was good but it was jumbly and get to the bottom and all of a sudden everything changes and you have to straighten off and hold your breath yeah [Music] how about uh the fog factor yeah it definitely adds to the spookiness level i don't know what's everybody doing like what's the whole mindset like today like right now the middle of the day like morning to mid like what did the how much did the fog play a factor huge factor i'm sure it'd be way more people out there if it wasn't this foggy which is kind of cool yeah nobody here i mean all the main guys are here so that's kind of cool gives them more room to just do their thing you know pete goes out there and gets that wave straight off the bat that [ __ ] seriously though his first one right i was like dude he's like no that wave was coming at 1002 or like what the hell oh [ __ ] dude let's get out there jesse look at this clearing up round two it's dude well i don't know if he did but i'm assuming i'm talking on the radio we got the call for um a missing boater at about one o'clock and we decided that the best way to go about uh seeing if we could do anything was to go out on our honda so mike williams and myself geared up and left the harbor right around 1 130 something like that with the tide dropping that afternoon we had 40-foot faces closing out the entrance between our red and green buoy so we're looking in the coast guard hilo was down off south reef and so we thought we'd take an attempt to try to head that way they'd been hovering for a while we thought that might be where this boat had ended up got about halfway there had to turn around the fog set in again we made it back to the break wall and i kid you not we could not see the water in front of our bow it had locked down to two feet visibility and we made it back in the harbor and i think to thank all those out there that were looking after us on that day that we made it in safely it was a heavy one rescue 9-1-1 it's pretty thick your thick fog pick wetsuit thick quality you have to stick together you guys like yeah you guys should kind of hang together i think that way i could find both of you at the same time what's your wetsuit bruh i'm waiting for you guys you're waiting i called i was like i'll wait for it [Music] gonna show you what he's all about oh it's just clear oh so oh just a sweeper oh look at where the bowl is behind it he's still going there's like no way what's up look at this thing watch your head twiggy huh holy yeah here we go somebody's on that thing oh my god oh my god so that's perfect [Music] that was a filthy one bro did you catch that bottom curtain and stuff i think so it's kind of gray but whatever i didn't want to get you closer played by play by jesse huh you're just doing the play by play it's sick here we go somebody deep huh oh [ __ ] get out of there man i had this wave that i was riding forever out katie let me go and i thought it was too early i'm like oh no and um so i'm chasing the swell to the channel and then chasing just trying to follow the power so i didn't get so i could make it down and then finally i went started coming down the wave and so i i stalled at the top with my arm tried to get both pulled in and then it sucked me back up even further shouldn't have tried to stall the way it was too big to do that so then i 100 miles an hour down and i got to the bottom i'm kind of like i couldn't set my edge i'm like trying to turn and i couldn't in this perfect barrel and i'm just like oh twice it happened to me whoa snowboarding dude oh there's somebody on this one oh my god [Music] oh he's gotta pull in oh look at look at this one oh my god that was from tibet bro that was sick are we getting money footage or what unforgettable dude was that really ion that was ion and you're filming i got that dude he's all right above us here we go watch your head god guy's gonna drop in on him [Music] uh [Music] oh zach hey what do you guys think battle it [Music] [Music] back look at this one look at this one he's going he's going oh this is a gnarly one oh my god so hold on all right oh my god hit on him dude that was a pretty good one that was a good clip you ever got a clip of somebody dropping in on the toaster uh not like that that was probably that was a good one no i wonder who that was it looked like he was gonna make it too huh yeah [Music] oh [Music] oh somebody on this next one okay where are we [Music] banner's pulling in oh big old that was that was a healthy one he almost [ __ ] nice tim get him nice pick up tim right there oh [Music] have i been saying that the whole time i have huh oh yeah behind here we go [Music] huh i definitely remember that day because there was a lot of crazy stuff going on man sometimes you think you're you're gonna make a wave and the bowl's here that ball is like one consistent big ball that horseshoes at you and i saw some of the boys from hawaii i'm actually these australian boys they stay in hawaii a lot jamie mitchell and his partner billy and jamie's been coming up for the last few swells and it's his first time and he was charging you know i seen him get behind a wave that it was ready to eat him and there was no way he could have pulled in he ended up jumping out of his straps into the bowl and tried to puncture and i saw him get sucked over and worked and held down for a while man guys are losing their skis guys are getting worked some guys making some good waves some guys not you know it was it was a really tricky day and that's the kind of days we learn you know we live and we learn and we get better at it and we get better at what we do best you know big wave surfing yeah but it's it's definitely a respectful sport man but uh it was a crazy day and i love it man i can't wait for another day like that oh my god oh my god he made that [Music] how did he make that that was psycho oh do you pull in dude oh no you got out of that oh we're far out on [Music] oh my god oh my god oh [ __ ] dude yeah we'll go in a little bit [Music] yeah there's somebody on it oh the paddler here we go oh oh my god oh my god i got a sequence off on that one whoa oh here we go oh no he's like no not over there here's a sick one on that side well the one after this one maybe i'll turn around okay cool whoa oh my god dude the low tide is just [ __ ] right now oh my god oh that was 220. it was a good spot huh [Applause] oh he's still under oh he is still under there he just came up [Music] oh oh yeah [Music] [Music] [Music] hmm so weird right now [Music] you can see the swell changing directions right now or something yeah huh it's like coming coming more from the north or west yeah it's all the sun it's like like this watch your head camera that's him okay hey we're outta here [Music] hang on twiggy [ __ ] yeah tim [ __ ] yeah i was sick on the ball getting away stoked and go in [Music] [ __ ] yeah dude dude they can't stop right now i like that little that was another good one the follow by somebody's on this one wow that's a safe oh that was that it went down pretty good oh no speed oh [ __ ] that's a drop right there [Music] oh good job jesse right on glad we went out got some that's right driving got a couple waves got a good donut got some sick footage went good tim tim got a huge backside barrel pretty impressive bottom turn pretty happy a couple frustrating moments it's pretty gnarly stoked we're all in [Applause] come here good surfing both you guys that was sick how big one [Laughter] [Music] [Laughter] california how big was it six [Laughter] 60 feet over there oh cars [Music] um i don't really have any expectations i'm just kind of just it's much better when you're not freaking out trying to do this or that when you're just watching the waves and form and chasing them around and surfing whatever there is it's just a lot easier approach that's my approach this year and it worked really good i didn't have any expectations didn't everybody was always going to be a big year small year it is that i just waited for the swells to come and chased him around and been having a lot of fun just been fun but next um i don't know just have to wait and see what mother nature produces right home that's it thank you gary oh

Channel: Powerlines Productions

Views: 169,643

Rating: 4.8310413 out of 5

Keywords: surf, surfing, mavz, mavericks, california, towsurfing, huge, risk, surfer, surfline, raw, flea, petermel, ionbanner, garrettmcnamara, boat, crazy, pillarpoint, halfmoonbay, stormsurf, history, historic, powerlines, powerlinesproductions, maverick, vert, cold, sea, water, coastguard, fog, 1080, twig, twiggy, session, love, nature, natural, live, ocean, pacific, jamiemitchell, kealiimamala, rescue, harborpatrol, johnjohnflorence, jjf, xxl, bigwave, bigwavesurfing, wipeout, extreme, gnarly, dude

Id: SNzqP8bMuF0

Length: 65min 28sec (3928 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 29 2020