BOLTR: METABO GRINDER. MADE IN GERMANY

gentlemen's welcome back to the shop today a treat especial all the way from 35 clicks southwest of Stuttgart and Metabo flat cupped pinkish rifle made in Germany just about the centroid of the universe if and you're into fancy German cars what for impressing the ladies from the local beauty school with vulgar displays of overcompensation all right saying I got nothing against German cars I mean you want to talk about the ladies wearing out your Sat Lauren 1979 80 horsepower 3 litre Mercedes diesel make your Abra - you're rich what with the big brass Clockers it takes to dry five cylinders raw vegetable oil converted power on the Autobahn Vaughn Vaughn Vaughn driving one of those things on vegetable oil you might have 50 horsepower you be steady wearing of the crutch your dungarees striding strutting down the market Platz wah I bought this specific model because it's diffident they from the rest see the big land end on these how big they are now I would know about this but apparently it's not the size of the axe it's how you swing it aza comparison the Dingle Armand on your typical grind air is going to be about three inches from stem to stern that's in metric about three inches okay if that happens your Dingle erm and falls off you're probably a little bit too late to go see your physician and the Dingle Armond on the flat Penacook inversion here is a boot two inches so that's 33% smaller that's a lot more poking in the poking bit receptacle you know I'm saying for easing into tight spots now I wouldn't know but I've been told that that extra inch could make the difference between a satisfying job well done and an excruciatingly ly long hand finish oh here's the Metabo 5 inch 900 watts that's over a horsepower 746 747 I just remember 747 watts is 1 horsepower so that's over a horsepower in the palm of your hand of course I like that I prefer the rat tail style this is I don't know what you call that horse style I guess and I don't like that because these get worn out and they pop off all the time but maybe not it seems reasonably rigid that's kind of crappy there I'm surprised they let that yeah 300 Canadian pesos this thing was here we got the training wheels for sissies here actually this will save you if you ever in a dilly of a pickle that debt I've never seen that's really weird seams chintzy to me but what would you call out normally they have a ring about keeping with the theme normally they'd have a ring on there what for keeping it stiff wait a second that's actually Wow like a German virgin not good entice nicely done I've never seen so very simple but very sturdy but that's an interesting feature they they were smart about that that's a real heavy heavy detent on that so that will not go anywhere and the thinking about it the nice part about that is like on the rat tails you end up losing this fastener frame it you you end up losing this fastener it gets loose and Weeble wobbles around and then where's the threads out so you got to replace the fastener good luck finding a metric bolt in most places a midnight raid over your brother-in-law's Toyota Tercel now looking at this tab it needs to be very robust on account of withstanding the 200 pound gorillas and this thing is a pro tool this thing gets a hot supper every day so they've gone ahead and used steel but if you look at all the features here in order to cast this in steel you be and then Mia you wouldn't be able to cast it in steel because the processing afterwards would be so expensive just you just couldn't do it but the detent in on that is so heavy this is centered powder metal so they take a powder different types of metal a mainly steel but some copper all sorts of stuff they put it in a mold they squeeze it and then they cook it but they don't actually melt it they cook it at a high enough temperature for long enough that the grains grow together powdered metal gear that has revolutionized how complex and cheap we can make parts like this and in this application I mean it lasts longer than you a nice power core of course it's a double insulated tool so we don't have the third prong for for the grounding and this cord real nice cord reefing I don't know that brass sounds a little bit offshore to me but 16 American wire gauge so lots of copper in there 105 see that's really good insulation and feeling this insulation it feels like natural rubber it it feels just like trailing cable on a piece of mining gear or a port crane that real high quality and that's an interesting process that's super expensive to do that because they actually take natural rubber and they have to they put in different components to it for abrasion resistance and for coloring and then it has to be needed and actually the cords get twisted together they built by the electrical builder's wire together it'll get twisted together and it'll get shot out of a die but the thing is with natural rubber in order for it to vulcanize it needs heat and pressure it also needs pressure so what they do is as this is extruded from a die I know at least for the big cable this is what they do they actually also at the same time extrude solid lead around this jacket and that compresses this so that when they put it in an autoclave an autoclave is essentially a pressure cooker where they just steam everything under pressure so it's a big huge hot pressure vessel a lot of energy in there so some safety involved but this will be jacketed in the lead and after they cook it the rubber has been vulcanized and they have to go ahead and take all the lead off and then remelt it and reuse it it's a whole process and it makes it extremely expensive so if indeed this is natural rubber which it sure as hell feels like to me and is indicative of this 105 see this is one hell of a cord man and plenty of it now natural rubber cannot be beat especially in the cold and say you're doing a meth lab in Guadalajara well they're not going to melt into nothing because the molecules of the rubber actually have been cross-linked by the sulfur compounds in there and once they're vulcanized they don't you can tree melt them it's it's completely changed so unlike a thermoset plastic which you can melt this won't do that so these rubber compounds have the material of choice for abrasion resistant and hitei you know sparks in the industry in general mining whatever this is where it's at and the reason they don't use them in other tools is because it's too expensive but when you buy a $300 grinder comes with a good pokin end now we're just into the backside of it and already some surprises some good some nasty this glass fiber reinforced pa6 of course is nylon and she's nice and stiff because it's thick so they haven't chintzed out on how much material they actually put in there that is beefy and I like this feature where the slots for the cooling are actually recessed they're shielded so you you have a hard time breaking those guards there so that's that's a smart feature this is weird though urethane open-cell urethane foam a little a little pocket of it here I guess just for keeping the rattletrap effect down on the wires but this is not very good at the heat like it can handle a lot of heat so it's funny that it's in here right by the commutator and the brushes now looking at this design this urethane is not the correct material as I said it's open celled probably about two pound per cubic foot density the problem is this will be right full of this would be right full of bromine so it doesn't so its flame-retardant but there's nothing to protect it from the UV from the Arkin and the sparking of the commutation and it's only good like not normal urethane it's only good to about eighty-five hundred degrees centigrade so this is you know it's going to get hot in here man this I would be willing to bet if this if this got put into service for six months you open this up and this would be powder and we flip this over we got some interesting stuff going on here not only do we have the switch actuate it again through a glass fiber 30% nylon bar but you also have some electronical doodads and they're all potted in there potted in the epoxy this would be a urethane epoxy as well we can see here's a big resistor in here and some other stuff it almost looks like trimpots so we'll have to have a look at that if we can and see what the hell's going on I don't know why they would have that because you know all you you want the grinder just off and on unless this is some sort of a triac which is like a easy start or a soft start well from what I can glean from the manual this is overload protection now when this gets too hot it still allows you to run but you're supposed to just idle it down until it can until it can cool itself off so this has to be I don't know if it would be electronic or just dumb kind of thermistors or something now having a look at the brush Assembly's beautiful nice big brush assemblies with the brass of course brass is really good at heat transfer not bad at passing electrical Pixies now the brushes themselves are interesting they have this feature you see here and what for that is is once you get to a certain wear area it starts to arc and spark and you lose power and I would assume that as you wear the brush even more the girth of this rod isn't enough if you stop on the wrong spot the thing actually commutated just sit there and eat I assume so that is an interesting feature to prevent you from wearing the brushes all the way out and damaging the motor rotor or rather the commutator ring and you can see from the pattern on the copper bars that the brush is serrated that's new we see that all the time now in tools we didn't see that say ten years ago but that is for wearing and proper seating we can see here that it swiped a nice pattern on the bars that means that yes they have actually tested this before they packaged it up and sent it to the great white north so that's always good to know now I just got the main connections off at the switch of course the switch is what fails the most because it's what connects the two hundred pound gorilla with the rest of the system so it's what fails most we got on the cord here some nice steak ons these are Ferrell's brass barrels to contain all the the little strands of wire kind of surprised to see with this high-end wire that it's not tinned each conductor is not tinned and that prevents corrosion of course that's a feature you will see on any kind of rated shipboard cable or any high-end cable it'll always be tinned so it has a doesn't get oxidized as easily but this is a weird arrangement the way they've got this they they have this little round steak on and then they've got this Spade connector here with a ring terminal and look at this just a weeble wobble in in the breeze not even yeah that's horrific horrific that's no good really terrible and it's terrible because it's it's not even on there solidly it's just kind of weeble wobble around so that's if it works now it's not going to work for very long now even worse this is the terminal with this chintzy urethane foam on it now you get a loose connection like that what's that mean you get high resistance you got high resistance you get high temperature that is not a good thing in fact it's a very bad thing just maybe that's why they have some odd coding on there because they want that to be loose and then it'll might grow well there some magic stuff but any time you come across an electrical connection and it's loosey-goosey like that and you fix it because it's nfg it's just you're asking for trouble loose connections are not good now what why they've gone and done this to where it doesn't stake on properly there's a disconcerting juxtaposition here this is all loosey goosey and then on the motor stator they've gone for the connections and actually they've gone through the trouble of actually adding hot snot impregnated or hot snot filled shrink tubing just to beef up that connection if you check all the other connections none of them are loosey-goosey so what the eff yo here we get to the switch it has a nice robust snap action and interesting feature on the side they've added a little capacitor looks like 1.5 or 15 micro farad capacitor and it's across the terminals of the switch so that must be for not noise suppression because if it was noise suppression they would want it closer to as close as possible to the motor not on the switch so it's got to be to eliminate the sparking or reduce the amount of arcing when the contacts make and break so that's a nice feature just a little detail to try and make this switch actually last longer and the way they made the electrical connection Hey you read my mind is interesting look at this so they've got the steak on terminals for the switch and they're just gone and taking one of the leads and put it in there and then crimped them together and then interestingly on the other side a whole bunch of high-temperature silastic I'm sort of yeah silicon putty stuff too to keep it and just mu to keep it in place yeah that's interesting air quotes now look at this fit finishing hand feel like a big difference to the longevity of a tool because if it feels like a piece of junk you're going to consider it a piece of junk then do you have any problems really you're just going to check it out because it's a piece of junk but the fit and finish on this switch we bobbles all over though it doesn't inspire confidence we see what's going on here is that just gets clipped in plastic clips focus you there we go you see that so that's manufactured for ease of assembly not longevity and those are just the little plastic clips that pop in there I wonder if I can yeah look at that it doesn't feel nice getting into the mechanicals and I see a real weak point here I said likely what brakes first it has to do with the guard if you look at this you have this big heavy detent spring and this fairly robust look in a nylon gloss impregnated you know yada yada yada nice and strong just as strongest cast aluminum however if you look at how it gets a fixed there's not much meat there man very little meat across here so picture a two hundred pound gorilla finished at the end of the day every day drops this this has got a tweak you know he drops it on the table this tweaks over this has to withhold all that impact that has to be clearly impact resistant and there's not enough meat there in order to do that so you will be replacing this no doubt before anything else I'm just going to try and get into the meat over here but ended a hole on the whole rotor Oh Fran child assembly it's just for arable you worry about that right now and that's that pretty cool but I wonder if this is belt driver there's a shaft or something in here you see how long that is there has to be some sort of power transmission thing going on in there take long pinion maybe whoa that's a new one Lovejoy coupling strange Wow what the what oh it's even got a spider wow that's a real soft elastomer elastomer mater the last time ometer it [Music] [Music] I usually use wd-40 on aluminum parts but whenever I come across like haunted parts or parts of demonic origin I like to break out the special formulation all the help I can get [Music] now I'm not sure if this move here is ballsy or stupid but a more smart person than I may have bolted this thing together hello you got your what invoice that's cool though that's that's like a little bit of a little condom there is a bit of a shock absorber well man we've never seen ya never seen anything like that and normally it's just straight opinion right on to the crown gear I see now because this is longer it hasta they have to make accommodations for that and what they've done is the bearing housing actually isn't built into here because they need to be able to install this big female coupling half so what they've actually done is they cast diecast and machined another varying housing and I can see the bearing in there I'm quite surprised it's it's a sealed bearing it's just a Chinese 608 little flea baby bearing I would have thought in a $300 machine you you'd get some SKF sir something to name brand at least same thing on the backside just a nothing special shielded bearing of course shield on the backside you're gonna get lots of dust in there from the commutator but there is a little shock absorber little nitrile rubber shock absorber on the back and of course there is accommodation here this hard UV resistant plastic what for I don't know separating the brushes from the bearing itself and the motor rotor looks nice and Skookum they've gone and epoxy to everything in of course it would be magnet wire so it would be lacquer or some sort of polyurethane dielectric coating on the wire itself and then they've and dipped it in another epoxy and then they've also added in addition to that another epoxy and then a layer of looks like polyethylene some sort of tape maybe even clear I don't know if they can make clear captain tape but there is some sort of plastic over top of that that would have to be fairly robust in thermal properties because this thing's going to get hot but not well balanced I mean they they spared no expense at the grinding wheel now this coupling is just interference fit on the shaft so we never get that off unless we pulled it off or heated it up and essentially the shaft is dimensionally the same diameter as the inside diameter the ID of this or maybe even a little bit bigger and we heat this up we heat it differentially and that means it expands differentially so if this is room temperature and we heat this up at expense we slide it on and then let it cool down and then all of a sudden it's on there better than a weld it's essentially the same piece of metal so in order to get that off chances are we'll be tough to break that and we need to get that off in order to take the bearing well maybe not let me try let me see if I can't break something you know there's nothing really to pry on because the fan is a pa6 glass fiber reinforced and yeah it'll just break so we actually need to get a bearing splitter and behind there and then Jack on this shaft and pull this off but I'm not going to do that you can pretty much see this is a it that actually looks like magnesium it doesn't look like aluminum casting which doesn't make sense because you'd think they'd be doing it in the same foundry it would be the same material let's just go ahead and check to see if indeed that's magnesium or if it's aluminum alloy now there's a couple ways to do that in the field one the easiest ways go to the cook Shack and get some vinegar and just check if there is a reaction it's magnesium and if there's no reaction it's a mainly aluminum so no reaction mainly of the aluminum the other way to do that is to take some shavings burn it on a piece of paper if it burns and there's nothing left just white ash you know that it was magnesium and you'll be able to see it if it just sort of melts away or still there you know it's aluminum we're going to check the gear ratio here one two three that's a 3 and 7/8 to 1 that's right about where we'd expect it considering this turning a little bit slower it's not 1,100 it's 10,000 rip ohms so 3 and 7/8 3.875 2 1 is the gear ratio I'm removing the pinion and there we go that's what's going on mr. shaft we hook a couple of bearings of course when you have a long shaft and then this coupling you need two bearings in order to locate it otherwise and weeble wobble this gear interestingly yeah there's no fastener on there at all but that's actually a machine top gear it's not powdered metal so this would have been machined out of a piece of round stock and then placed on the shaft there's a lot of assembly going on here like and shrink fit so these are expensive parts because you need to get the tolerance is perfect so that you get enough of a interference so the thing actually works there's yeah that's an interesting way to do it kind of costly way to do it but as I said this coupling here this is a powdered metal gear and on the other end hub machined just a spacer and that is just a punched little spacer in there so it locates it locates on this shoulder now that's interesting because this is a powdered metal gear centered paddle metal gear the shaft itself is a steel shaft that's machined now hardened metal gear of course probably hard as a coffin nail yeah just as hard as ever it could be so was the pinion I betcha yeah now when we looked at the fine there was there was a way to change the contact pattern if it wasn't perfect now there's no way to do that in here and that kind of concerns me because your your locating on this gabi looking well this is a pressed part rather this is a punched part and here we have a machined spacer and it's up against a machine so we have one two three mushy four machined surfaces that are trying to locate this in the correct contact pattern and there's no shims in order to adjust it if it's not so there they would have to make either really expensive parts or you know to get the Ted to hit those tolerances or you know maybe they woke up with a bushel of Foxx one morning and by the time they get to work they'd all been give it away now as far as the wheel changing mechanism this is the least amount of meat that we've seen on any grinder very little meat there there's about two millimeters thick by maybe a millimeter and a half of engagement so a teeth out to sixty thousand is interesting got an o-ring to keep the grease in and it's spring-loaded you can see this isn't powdered metal and I'll show you why if you look at just the correct light with your tongue at the right angle you can see the helical chatter mark pattern so either the tool was getting dull right down here or the feeding too fast or something going wrong with the machining process but pretty well you know it doesn't affect the performance but I'm surprised they would let that go and the grease in here just a little dab will do you nothing special though nowhere stick tivity to it I don't even think it's a lithium grease it's - it's super super-thin might just be calcium the difference being lithium dropped Estes maybe 200 see where melts and drops out of a ASTM test jig and the calcium is only a hundred see I have a feeling this melt pretty low temperature but yeah likely the gear itself has some copper impregnating what for helping with the surface where help slide a little bit better but in the DeWalt like this is doesn't look like anything special in the DeWalt remember we actually had molybdenum sulphide however the surface finish of that powdered Metal Gear was way worse than this one this is actually like a reasonable surface finish the other one if you recall the dwelt super super pitted and gnarly so I think they had to rely on that molybdenum disulphide those platelets of molybdenum disulphide to fill the voids and slide on each other overall fit and finish of this is way nicer but that does concern me that there is no way to adjust the where contact or the contact pattern of that gear especially considering the arrangement that we have here so I'm going to go ahead and get the Prussian blue the cyanide compound out and we'll blue this gear and we'll check the contact pattern Prussian blue well the Empire dirt refused to give up the booty so we're gonna might need to make our own I'm going to try using just item and my 30-year old axle grease here halfway through well it is blue it is greasy and friggin life right sneaking down here in the middle of the night I tell you if it's shiny and not bolted um gone man Oh surprise unfortunately I suspected because we're dealing with three or four different tolerances plus it's being retained by a punched steel you know you can't maintain tolerances under certain machining conditions and punching Steel's is one of those ones we can see here we got good contact however let's have a look there you see that it goes right to the edge of a gear tooth so the belly is in the right spot the belly of the contact is in the right spot but it goes all the way to the edge of the gear tooth so you would want to see that belly a little bit further up towards the center on that way you wouldn't be where on that very edge of the gear-tooth so you would be able to fix that contact pattern by adding some shims here that would extend this out and then the pinion would a gauge and it wouldn't drive that gear tooth all the way through to the edge would just do it in the middle so ya fail now the contact pattern on the pinion is great you can see it doesn't go to the edges right in the middle but there's lots of room there to extend this guy out and here's the handle Lulla fancy you got to pay more for that Metabo branding this is just pp polypropylene glass fiber reinforced 30% and hello focus you mother thank you and subs which is a stye reen elastomer butylene styrene so it's a butylene nitrile rubber with styrene on either end of the molecule there and that's that nice rubbery stuff so not really good enough here while styrene and any kind of industrial solvent yeah no es bueno so all this rubber stuff likely if you have one and there's industrial solvents around or any kind of harsh chemicals that this will be rotted right out of her alright we got a red part we had a good poke at her we can see now exactly what components are in there what's lacking and what's good does this measure up to the makita absolutely it does is it twice the makita because it's twice the price no but I will tell you exactly why if there's some anecdotal comments about these lasts way longer I'll tell you exactly why they last longer just one little component right here that's the overload so when you get too much current through the motor or starts getting hot this thing will throttle back you won't get as much power through here and that's going to allow all of the electricals to cool down prevent them from burning up that's the only reason this would last longer because I'll tell you what this crown gear here powdered metal gear not nearly as good as the forged steel gear that's in the makita no way also all the connections are all press fit so they're all interference fit that means that the tolerances need to be super high whereas in in the newer makita's and the dEWALT's and yada yada yada they're all a fastener fit so they're it's not as critical to get the same dimensioning on there in order for it to transmit the torque as far as the castings you know the castings are Skookum the bearings you would think nice German tool 300 Canadian pesos I can't stress that enough you know it's twice the price of a typical rat tail Makita Chinese bearings no-name flea bay bearings yeah okay I forgot to mention the brush holders here they're on a plastic backing that slides into the slot here now the problem with that is just like the $20 horror fright grinder that will melt right out of her now the only thing preventing that of course this has protection in it so they might get away with not melting these brushes right out of her but this protection module is what's protecting this from actually melting in the hands of a 200 pound gorilla if it didn't have this built-in protection this would be not nearly as good as the makita however considering that it's twice the price you know are you sort of getting a little of the louis vuitton scenario here where it's a luxury tool i think so i think you're paying for it being made in germany so for the home gamer who's not going to do much grinding go ahead to Harbor Freight and get the heavy duty grinder it's well worth the twenty bucks as long as you don't abuse it if you're going to do some pro home gamer stuff or some pro stuff the makita is your best bet I would say in my opinion I got lots of them so I'm a little bit biased but they are the grinder that one the way and if you own a workshop and you got 200 300 pound gorillas on there that are burning them out steady like it's not the trigger whatever it's somebody literally like leaning on the thing for too long and lets the smoke up the metabolites got protection it'll throttle you back as a home gamer I can't handle portal like if it starts to smell you know well if I want to finish the cut I'll finish the cut you know what I'm saying but that doesn't always work in industry you kind of want to protect your investment however the proof and the pudding is in the eating so we're going to get these back together and we're going to test them all electrically at the same time that is we're going to put them under load well run them through their paces we're going to see how hot they get all sorts of interesting stuff might even see if we can let the smoke out of one or two of them thanks a lot for watching ok keep your dick in a vise

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Views: 1,140,053

Keywords: Tool, Review, Engineering, Mechanical, Equipment, Industry, Motor, Engine, truck, custom, car, welding, fix, how to, metabo, dewalt, fein, makita, milwaukee, best, what is, woodworking, metalworking, stone, concrete, tile, diy, make, maker, German, Slim, compact, tight quarter

Id: hTqv4mfKYEE

Length: 35min 59sec (2159 seconds)

Published: Mon Oct 03 2016